DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD ... · wood screws to attach roof #8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screws to attach front CLEAT DETAIL (TOP VIEW) 7/64" pilot hole 1/2" deep

Note: The walls and roof panels disassemble easily when it’s time to store away the cottage.

Even if you don’t make your children or grandchildren anything elsethis year, surprise them with this winner of a project. We guaranteethat they’ll spend hundreds of hours in it and cherish every minute.They’ll think you’re pretty special, too.

Make-believe will abound in this playhouse

Even if you don’t make your children or grandchildren anything elsethis year, surprise them with this winner of a project. We guaranteethat they’ll spend hundreds of hours in it and cherish every minute.They’ll think you’re pretty special, too.

TM

page 1 of 14

DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.com

Make-believe will abound in this playhouse

TM

page 2 of 14

81/2"

2" notch 21/2" deep

48"

611/2"

11/2"

END

END

BACK

FRONT

3/16 x 11/4"self-adhesivefoam weatherstrip betweenthe roofpanels

ROOF#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screwsto attach roof

#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screwsto attach front

CLEAT DETAIL(TOP VIEW)

7/64" pilot hole1/2" deep

5/32" shank hole,countersunk

1/8"round-overon insidecorners ofall cleats

48"

48"

EXPLODED VIEW

1/4" grooves 1/8" deep, cutusing a round-nose router bit70"

24o bevels

#8 x 21/2" F.H.wood screws

5/32" shank holes,countersunk.

7/64" pilot hole13/4" deep

24o bevel

ROOF

681/2"

#8 x 11/2" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 11/2" F.H.wood screw

24o

1/4" holes

261/2"

1/4 x 2"hexhead bolt

1/4" flat washerand nut

Foam weather strip

ROOF DETAIL

1/4" holes

O

QO

K

DJ

N

A

O

P

Q

Q

P

K

M

P

D

N

A

O

M

P

K

J

Q

F

L

D

N

HEF

J

CF

B

H

A

CF

J

C

E

F

L

KEG

I

G F

MM

3/4"

Overhang equals thicknessof plywood plus batten .D K

Bottom edge ofdoor is 1"above bottomedge of front panel .A

B

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Part

10

Bill of Materials

WINDOW AND DOOR TRIM

R catch supports

C 4P roof end blanks

C 468fi"‡" 2fi"

C2"‡" ‡"

Qty

.

O roof panels 70"‡" 30" PL 2

T W LFinished Size

Mat

l.

31‹"‡" 4"

ROOF AND CATCH SUPPORTS

Q eaves & ridgeboards

D ends

PL 1B door

PL 421Œ"‡" 9Œ"

PL 258‡"‡" 48"

Materials Key: PL–plywood, C–cedar.

Supplies: 1fi"-diameter wooden knob, 10ornamental cabinet hinges (Stanley #1475), 10magnetic catches and strike plates, ¤" acrylicfor window and doors, #6×fi" flathead woodscrews, #8×1‹" flathead wood screws, #8×1fi"flathead wood screws, #8×2fi" flathead woodscrews, 3–‹×2" hexhead bolts with washersand nuts, ‰×1‹" self-adhesive foamweatherstrip, wood putty, acrylic caulk, primer,exterior latex paints.

Qty

.

A front & back 58fi"‡" 48" PL 2

Part T W LFinished Size

Mat

l.

41"‡" 17Œ"

FRONT, BACK, AND ENDS

C windows

BATTENS, SHUTTERS, AND CLEATS

E window sides C 826"‡" 2"

F window tops & btm. C 814"‡" 2"

G door sides C 233"‡" 2"

H arched door tops C 222‹"‡" 4‡"

I door panel PL 114‡"‹" 13›"

J front battens C 448"‡" 2‹"

K end battens C 448Ø"‡" 1fi"

L shutters PL 422"‡" 7"

M roof cleats C 423Œ"‡" ‡"

N wall cleats C 448›"‡" ‡"

3/4 x 111/4 x 96" Cedar

FE

3/4 x 91/4 x 96" Cedar

JP

H

3/4 x 91/4 x 96" Cedar

H

KJ

FG

E

KFG

E

F

CUTTING DIAGRAM

Start with the plywood front,back, and ends1 Using the dimensions on page 10and the layout on the CuttingDiagram above, mark the outlines forthe front and back (A) on ‡" plywood.Mark the door and window openings.(For interior use, we recommendbirch or fir plywood; for outdoor useyou’ll need exterior-grade plywood.Use the best grade available. The timeyou save not having to fill, sand, andrepaint the voids of a less-expensiveplywood will make up for the extraexpense.)2 Using a straightedge and a circularsaw, cut the front and back panels to size.

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3/4 x 111/4 x 72" Cedar

Q

1/4 x 24 x 24"Plywood

IQ

P R

3/4 x 91/4 x 96" CedarK

M N M


(2 pieces)D

C

O


(2 pieces)

CUTTING DIAGRAM

C C


L

L

A B

22"

30"

A


3 To form the openings, use a jigsawfitted with a plywood-cutting blade.Cut the front-door opening to shape,creating the front door (B). Next, cutthe window openings to shape. (Toavoid drilling blade-start holes whenforming the window openings, wemade plunge cuts with our jigsaw. Todo this, tip the saw as shown in PhotoA. Start the saw (if you have a variable-speed jigsaw, start with a medium tohigh speed and the blade set for straightreciprocation rather than the orbitalmotion). With the front end of thesaw’s bottom plate firmly against theplywood, lower the reciprocating bladeinto the plywood at the marked line as

shown in Photo B. Keeping the frontend of the plate firmly against theplywood, continue lowering the sawuntil the plate is in full contact withthe plywood. Make the cut. Cutcarefully, and save the cutouts: you’lluse them for the windows (C).4 Using the dimensions on page 9, layout the outline, notch, and windowopening, and cut each end (D) to size.Again, save the cutout from each endpanel for the windows.5 Carefully mark the panel openingson one of the four window cutouts (C),and cut the four openings in eachwindow to size. Use a drum sander tosand the rounded corners.

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Now, using this window as a template,mark the openings on the threeremaining windows. Cut and sand theopenings in the windows to shape.6 Mark the openings on the door, andcut them to shape.7 Rout ›" round-overs along theoutside face of the window openingson the door (B) where shown on theFront drawing. Switch bits, and rout‹" round-overs along the outside faceof window-pane openings whereshown on the End drawing.8 Buy a wooden door knob (we useda 1fi"-diameter knob), and drill amounting hole through the door foradding the knob later.

Cut the trim, door panel,and window panel next1 From ‡" solid stock (we recommendcedar or redwood), cut the windowtrim (E, F) and door-side trim (G) tosize.2 Using a waterproof glue (we usedTitebond II), glue and clamp the solid-wood trim around the windowopenings.3 Using the patterns on page 11 forreference, miter-cut the door-top trim(H) to size. Then, mark a 9" and 11"radius on each piece where shown onthe drawing. Cut the pieces to shape,and check that the inside radius on thedoor-top trim is flush with the dooropening. Sand the trim to match. Glueand clamp the door trim pieces (G, H)in place.4 Cut the door bottom panel (I) to thesize listed in the Bill of Materials from‹" plywood. Drill mounting holes,and screw the panel to the back sideof the door.

Now, let’s add the battens,shutters, and cleats1 Cut the corner battens (J, K) to size.As shown on the Front and Enddrawings, miter-cut the top ends of thebattens to match the roofline on theends (D).2 Glue and clamp the corner battens(J) to the front and back panels (A),using a scrap piece of ‡" plywood anda piece of scrap batten material to

To start the plunge cut for the window, position the jigsaw onthe plywood with the blade not touching the wood but centeredover the cutline.

Turn on the saw, and lower the blade into the wood, causing thereciprocating blade to cut through the plywood at the markedcutline.

B

A

gauge the overhang. See the Cleatdetail accompanying the ExplodedView drawing for reference. Also makecertain that the beveled top tip of thebatten is flush with the top edge of thefront panel.3 Glue and clamp the corner battens(K) to the end panels (D). Make certainthe mitered top end of the batten is

flush with the top edge of the end paneland that the edge of the batten is flushwith the outside edge of the end panel.4 To rout the numerous grooves in theshutters, start by cutting a shutter blankto 22×30" as shown on the CuttingDiagram. Mark a series of lines 1"apart across the front face of the 30"-wide blank. Fit your router with a ‹"

MAKING A PLUNGE CUT WITH A JIGSAW

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round-nose bit. Using a straightedge,rout ¤"-deep grooves across the frontof the shutter blank. For reference, seePhoto C for how we used this samesetup to rout the shingle facsimiles onthe roof panels. Cut the four shutters(L) to size from the large routed blank.5 Rip ‡" square stock for the roofcleats (M) and corner cleats (N). Miter-cut the top end of the roof cleats (M)to match the notch at the top center ofthe end panel.6 Rout a ¤" round-over along whatwill be the inside corner of each cleat(M, N). See the Exploded View andaccompanying Cleat detail forreference.7 Drill countersunk holes for #8flathead wood screws through thecleats for securing them to the matingpanels. Glue and screw the cleats tothe end panels.

A roof to keep the rain out1 From ‡" plywood, cut the two roofpanels (O) to size. As shown onpage 12, lay out the shingle grooveswhere dimensioned.

To start the plunge cut for the window, position the jigsaw on the plywood with the blade not touchingthe wood but centered over the cutline.

2 Chuck a ‹" round-nose bit in a hand-held router, and adjust it to cut ¤"deep. Measure from the edge of therouter base to the center of the bit, andcut a piece of plywood to this width.Using the plywood strip as a gauge tospace a straightedge parallel with eachmarked line, rout a series of groovesthe length of each roof panel (O).3 Using the straightedge perpendicularto the top and bottom edges of the roofpanel, rout the 3‡"-long groovesbetween the long grooves to form theindividual shingles as shown in Photo C.4 Bevel-rip the top edge of each roofpanel (O) at 24°.5 Cut the roof-end blanks (P) to thesize listed in the Bill of Materials.Transfer the full-sized roof-end patternto one of the blanks. Cut the roof endto shape, and use it as a template tomark the other three pieces.6 Cut the eaves and ridgeboards (Q) tosize. Bevel-rip one edge of each pieceto match the slope of the roof (24°).7 Clamp the two ridgeboards (Q)together face-to-face. Drill three ‹"holes through both ridgeboards where

shown on t he Roof de t a i laccompanying the Exploded Viewdrawing. Later, you’ll fit bolts throughthese holes to pull the roof sectionstightly together .8 Clamp the roof ends (P) andridgeboard and eaves (Q) to the bottomside of the roof panels (O). Check thefit, and trim if necessary. Now, glueand screw each roof section togetherin the configuration shown on theExploded View drawing.

Final assembly andpainting come next1 With the aid of a helper, clamp andthen screw the ends (D) to the frontand back (A). To save time, don’t driveall the screws now; do just enough tohold the pieces together to check thefit. A cordless screwdriver comes inh a n d y f o r a s s e m b l i n g a n ddisassembling the pieces.2 Drill mounting holes, and hinge thedoor to the left-hand door trim piece(G). Hinge the windows (C) to windowtrim pieces (E).

C

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page 7 of 14

3 Cut 10 catch supports (R) to size,and use a pair at each window and apair at the door to mount the magneticcatches. See the patterns on page 10for location and the Magnetic Catchdetail below for reference.4 Check the fit of the two roof sectionson the walls, and verify that the three‹" holes align for inserting the ‹"bolts later. See the Roof detailaccompanying the Exploded View forreference.

MAGNETIC CATCH DETAIL(TOP VIEW)

581/2"

11/2" overlap

11/2"

21/4"

#6 x 1/2" F.H. wood screws

8"

20"

1/8" acrylic panel,centered on insideface of window

217/8"

97/8"

1/4" round-overs

F

E

C

B

A

Magnetic catch


Magnetic catch

Mitered corner

E

F

I

Strike plate

4"

4"

C

FE

F

1/8" acrylic centered overinside face of door windows


3/8" round-overs

Strike plate

#6 x 1/2" F.H. wood screws

J

J

H

G

11/2"-dia.wooden

knob 1/8" hole

1/4" plywoodcentered overback face ofdoor cutout

R=13/4"

Strike plate

3/8" round-over

FRONT

Ornamentalcabinet hinge(Stanley #1475)

Ornamental cabinet hinge(Stanley #1475)

R

R

R

9/64" shank hole,countersunk

24o bevel

Note: The back is made the sameas the front but without any windowor door cutouts.

A

Magnetic catch

Magnetic-catchstrike plate

Door

A

B G

R

5 Use an exterior wood putty to fillthe screw heads and voids in theplywood. (Inspect the roof carefully;we exposed a couple of voids whenrouting the shingles. Due to the size ofthe voids in the roof, we used acryliccaulk to seal them rather than the woodputty.)6 Remove the catches, strike plates,and hinges from the assemblies. Primeall the wood pieces (we used a latexprimer). The edges of the plywood and

the end grain on the solid stock shouldhave at least two coats of primer,sanded lightly with 220-grit sandpaperbetween coats. Don’t forget to primethe routed edges at the windowopenings.7 Using an exterior paint compatiblewith the primer, paint the house tomatch the one shown in the openingphotograph, or paint it to match thecolor of your house. (We used anexterior semigloss latex for the walls,

Produced by: Marlen KemmetProject Design: Don MostromIllustrations: Kim DowningGraphic Design: Jamie Downing©COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION 1997

The purchase of these plans does nottransfer any copyright or other ownershipinterest in the plans, the design, or thefinished project to the buyer. Buyer mayneither reproduce the plans for sale noroffer for sale any copies of the finishedproject.

TM

page 8 of 14

24o miters

N

M

L

K F

E

D

C

2" notch21/2" deep

48"

11/2"

K

L

M N

Top end of cleatsstop at notch in top of .

MD


5/32" hole, countersunk onback side


3/4 x 3/4 x 2"catch support

5/32" hole,counter-sunk

1/8 x 8 x 20" acrylic panel,centered on inside face of window


217/8"

97/8"

1/4" round-overs

Mitered corners

E

F

Strike plate

END

R

Ornamentalcabinet hinges(Stanley #1475)

1/4" grooves 1/8" deep, cutusing a round-nose routerbit and spaced 1" apart

1"

Fasten shutters with #8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws from inside.

CLEAT DETAIL

24o

3/4"

Inside faceof ends

5/32" holes,countersunkon inside,drilled forattachingthe roof andwall pieces


M

ND

1/8" round-over oninside corner ofall cleats

D

K

Magnetic catch(see detail on Frontdrawing for reference).

both inside and out. Then, we used anexterior gloss for the door, windows,trim, shutters, door knob, and roof.)8 Screw the shutters in place.9 Using a fine toothed-blade, cut ¤"acrylic for the doors and windows. Seethe patterns on page 9 for size andshape. Drill mounting holes, andsecure the acrylic in place with #6×fi"flathead wood screws. Be carefulnot to over-tighten the screws; toomuch pressure can cause the acrylicto crack.

10 Reattach the door and windows.Adhere the weather strip to one edgeof an assembled roof section whereshown on the Roof detail accompanyingExploded View drawing.11 With the aide of a helper,reassemble the cottage front, back, andends. Check for square. Position theroof sections in place. Then, use three‹" bolts and nuts to pull the roof-sections/ridgeboards tightly together.Secure the roof sections to the cleats(M) with #8 wood screws.¿

TM

page 9 of 14

R=6

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les,

coun

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1 /8"

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TM

page 10 of 14

22"

10"

48"

4"10

"4"

18"

61/4

"

R=

9"

42"

FR

ON

T

2" 2"

4"

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TM

page 11 of 14

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TM

page 12 of 14

70"

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edge

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TM

page 13 of 14

P

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TM

page 14 of 14

5 /32

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Documents

DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD ... · wood screws to attach roof #8 x 11/4" F.H. wood screws to attach front CLEAT DETAIL (TOP VIEW) 7/64" pilot hole 1/2" deep