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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
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62 Caribba Travl + Lif j u n e / j u L y 2 0 0 9 C A R I B B e A
n T R A V e L M A G . C o M Caribba Travl + Lif 63
junGLe LoVeLy
A chill plg i
th Mr Tri
Pit natial
Par emral Pl.
oppit: jgl
Ba Rrt 35
cttag ar t
ami car, galba
a gmmir tr.
t e x t & p h o t o gr a p h y b y b o b f r i e l
get lost in DoMinicas legenDary wilD
siDe at these six eleMental loDges
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
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Caribbean islands, the allure here isnt a billboard image o
suntanned bodies relax-
ing on brilliant white sands. Dominicas true beauty is
primordial, raw and powerul,
and to really appreciate it, you have to immerse yoursel.
Fortunately, as imposing as
the islands geography can be, you can scale your adventures rom
easy to extreme.
At the orest margins, hummingbirds probe exotic blooms that are
their only color
rivals in a realm o green on green on green. Simply step into
the jungle along any
o the islands 365 rivers and youre instantly transported to a
los t world where trees
curl skeletal toes over riverbanks, vines snake rom high in the
canopy, and mosses
smother any surace that remains still or more than a minute.
Hike just a little arther into the jungle and youll nd several o
the hemispheresmost picturesque cascades, like Traalgar Falls. In
Emerald Pools paradisiacal setting,
you slip into the water or a baptism beneath a cool waterall.
Lured ever deeper, you
can swim inside the mysterious winding canyon o Titou Gorge
until youre enveloped
in the mist and eel the overpowering strength o yet another
waterall.
Nine seething volcanoes lie camoufaged beneath Dominicas lush,
green orest, and
at Champagne Beach youll witness how close to the surace the
geothermal marrow
boils as you snorkel amid bubbling volcanic gases and reach your
hands into hot-
water vents. Take to the sea on a boat trip o the calm west
coast and youll cruise
over abyssal depths that attract the Caribbeans grandest mix o
dolphins and whales,
including a resident pod o sperm whales.
For those looking to reach beyond the sot adventures, Dominica
brings all the
heart-pounding action you can handle. With ve mo untains more
than 4,000 eet
eMeRALd IsLe
T-rm Ba Riv
vrl rgg
A Fracai a
Waama Pit.
oppit, frm
abv: Th lmig
4,550-ft Mr
Tri Pit giv
dmiica atial
par it am; ht
a cl tram
bl i Tit Grg.
64 Caribba Travl + Lif o C T o B e R 2 0 0 9
istill DoMinica Down to its
bAsics anD youll Derive a siMple
forMula: unrivaleD natural beaUty
plus MaD rushes of aDreNAline
ooh-aah plus yee-ha! k m
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
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66 Caribba Travl + Lif j u n e / j u L y 2 0 0 9
high, covered in the regions most pristine rainorest, the island
boasts some legendary
hiking. The mixing o currents oshore creates some o the
Caribbeans most electric
diving. And the little-known sport o canyoning takes advantage o
the islands in-
numerable rivers some fowing chill and drinkably pure, others
mineral white and
Jacuzzi hot. They draw you deep inside the billowing drapery o
jungle to where even
the air is tinted green and reveal a spectacular cascade then
fing you over.
A Dominica day shouldnt end once the muds washed o and the
muscles are
massaged. You need to bask in the humid exhalations o the
rainorest all evening,
drit o to the symphony o tree rogs and wake to the chorus o
birds. Your lodging
should provide a seamless transition between indoors and out.
Forget TVs, soaking
tubs or air-conditioners. This is an island that calls or warm
wood foors and lazy
ceiling ans, open windows and open minds, and hotel dining rooms
that eed you a
steady diet o local sh, cocoa tea, and heaps o mangoes, papayas
and passion ruit.
Its a place where you catch yoursel about to order a rum and
Coke and instead ask
the bartender or the reshest squeezed anything.
To authentically experience Dominica, you need accommodations as
distinctive as
the island. Here are six o our avorite lodgings, including a ew
genuine nds.
CoCoA CoTTAGes Stepping through the colorul Dutch door and into
Cocoa
Cottages Honeymoon Suite, youre greeted by the words o the Dalai
Lama hand-
painted on a chair: Remember that not getting what you want is
sometimes a won-
derul stroke o luck. Its hard to imagine, though, that the kind
o person who
makes it to this six-room lodge deep inside Roseau Valley wont
nd what they came
or. Guests here are on independent journeys travelling light
while looking or
deeper experiences.
People who need to be here whether they realize it or not
somehow nd us,
says Cocoas deliberative owner, Iris Azoulay, her Israeli-born
accent warmed with a
slight tropical lilt rom years in the islands.
And the needs that Cocoa satises?
Its all about connecting, she says o the mind-body experience
that comes rom
getting in touch with elemental Dominica. The ood she prepares
is resh-plucked
rom the surrounding bush or resh-caught rom local waters youll
hear the village
shwie blowing a conch shell to announce a sweet new haul o
mahimahi or tuna.
Everythings served amily style in an alresco kitchen/dining room
that eels so much
like eating at a riends house that you refexively help clear the
table. The convivial
atmosphere encourages conversation that connects you to
simpatico souls.
The rooms our in the main lodge, plus two in a rounded cottage
that eels
like a treehouse were built o Dominica hardwoods by a local
Rasta, with sub-
sequent interior touches by Iris and other artists. Book the
Honeymoon Suite and
youll nest amid the orest canopy in a plush bed surrounded by
louvered windows.
The outdoor living room/deck stands high above a stream, with a
rustic dritwood
swing and a hanging bed.
Connecting you with the islands most adventurous side, Extreme
Dominica, based
out o Cocoa Cottages and with a team o proessional guides led by
Iris partner,
Richard, takes small groups on canyoning trips that use climbing
gear to explore awe-inspiring sights no other visitors ever see.
Between them, the couple oer everything
youd want to connect and commune with the Nature Island and
sometimes, the best
luck is getting just what you want. $104 year-round;
cocoacottages.com; 767-448-0412
BeAu RIVe A single, gangly palm tree brands the view rom any
place you stand
at Beau Rive, towering improbably tall and steadast above all
the other greenery
against a dramatic backdrop o Atlantic waves crashing into
Wakaman Point. Ater
getting to know Mark Steele, the sot-spoken owner, designer,
head che and host o
this classically comortable guesthouse on Dominicas rugged east
coast, just south
o the Carib Territory (home to descendents o the Carib people,
or Kalinagos, who
used only spears and arrows to hold o the worlds greatest
military powers), you
get the idea that he identies with that lone tree.
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
4/7
Ater struggling or years to break through as a musician and
actor in England, Mark,
at 40, decided instead to break away. Fittingly or a lielong an
o classic lms, like
Casablanca, that romanticize the lives o tropical expats, he set
o or the islands.
When I got to Dominica, says Mark, I realized Id landed in the
Caribbean I
always hoped to nd unspoiled by modern mass tourism.
Lie or this would-be Rick Blaine, though, was anything but
romantic at the
start. Mark slept under a lean-to or two-and-a-hal years while
he and a borrowed
cow chopped and chewed their way to clearing the land. He
planted 170 fowering
and ruit trees even beore construction began, and thanks to
Dominicas wild e-
cundity, the gardens surrounding his six-year-old guesthouse
already look decades
old, overfowing with theatrically blossomed ylang-ylang,
rangipani and several
color variants o famboyants. Paths lead into a orest and down a
steep trail to the
Richmond River, which borders the property and runs to a rocky
beach. A separate
piece o land in the hills s upplements the supply o resh produce
or the restaurant
where the three-course menu changes nightly and provides the
cocoa beans
or Marks homemade chocolate.
The 10 rooms eight in the main lodge and two in new cottages
refect their
designers interest in old movies: cool, clean and classic, with
o-white walls and wide-
planked hardwood foors. Ceiling ans, screened windows and carved
transoms above
louvered doors welcome the sea breezes and the sound o the ocean
swells tumbling
the stones down on Anse Francais. Each room opens onto a veranda
that overlooks the
orested valley, a pompadour o trees swept back over the headland
by the wind, and o
course, that iconic palm. From $180 year round; beaurive.com;
767-445-8992
68 Caribba Travl + Lif o C T o B e R 2 0 0 9
PRIMAL kneAd
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
5/7
dIVInG Whthr it th mixig
f crrt, th trit frm
all th rivr r th hat frm
th vlca, th ivig i
pctaclar. dw th ff
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dmiica, a vil f all
pci crw th rf. natr
Ila div (atrilaiv
.cm; 767-449-8181) will gi
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sfrir-sctt Ha Mari
Rrv (tw-ta iv: $80).
snoRkeLInG And sHoRe
dIVInG Fam a am fr
th vlcaic bbbl tramig
frm th aflr t ffhr,
Champag Bach ffr mch
mr tha glgical vlt.
Th hr ivig hr with
giat barrl pg (abv)
i 30 ft f watr, a hg
pr cvr i m f th
halthit Caribba cral
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tramar biivrit, iclig
ahr a frgfih
cmpar t th bt mim
a pr it f Bair,
th gl taar. srlr
ca pla i th bbbl amg
cl f baitfih bfr
haig t t th rf hallw
pt. Iri safari (767-440-
5085) ffr hr iv ($50,
iclig qipmt) with PAdI-
crtifi gi; fr rlig
($2 par f), it wrth th xtra
$5 t g with a gi.
WHALe WATCHInG dmiica i
hm t a ar-r pplati
f fmal prm whal a
thir calv, alg with pilt
whal a ptt a pir
lphi. I witr, mal prm
whal hw p t cmpt fr
mat, alg with hmpbac
a thr aal viitr.
Achrag Htl Whal Watch &
div Ctr (achraghtl.m;
767-448-2638) ffr 3-hr
tr fr $50.
CAnyonInG G th xtra tp
(r lap) b trappig a hlmt
a climbig gar fr a extrm
dmiica (xtrmmiica
.cm; 767-448-0412) caig
avtr. B prpar t
g vr th lip f a 40-ft r
highr watrfall rappllig
w m fall a mpig ff
thr. It a arali rh
that al ffr qalit tim at
plac p ii dmiica
raifrt. extrm xcri,
ch a thir B Tit
Grg a B Bilig La
caig avtr, ft
bgi whr thr . Frm
$150-$200, iclig qipmt,
traprt a lch.
HIkInG k Hitrla
Avtr Tr (hatttr
.cm; 866-880-0508) gi
t all f dmiica avtr
it, frm a lw-tr trip t
a wim i a trifcta f
watrfall (Tit Grg, emral
Pl a Trafalgar Fall: $60), t
th mt maig raifrt
hi (Bilig La: $50; Mr
diablti: $70). Fr atr
with a i f cltr, tr th
kaliag expric ($70) i th
Carib Trritr a a tr ($60)
l b a Rata wh will hw
hw h liv ff th la.
doMInICA ACTIon PLAnneRs
junGLe BAy When I bought this land, they were laughing,
recalls Dominica-born Sam Raphael. This was the wasteland,
the useless part o a banana plantation, unproductive, worth-
less. Now, ater turning this rugged stretch o steep hillside
above a wild and rocky Atlantic beach into one o the Carib-
beans most lauded eco-resort/wellness retreats, Sam is the
one
who's laughing.
At the resorts Spa du Soleil, you almost laugh too in be-
tween groans o pleasure coaxed by a strong-ngered masseuse
rom the nearby village o Petit Savant. While the relaxing
smells
and sounds youve come to expect at spas are nearly always
canned, here exotic plants and wildfowers surround the
treat-
ment room, and outside the open wall, genuine ocean waves
crash against a craggy outcrop just o the beach.
With 35 cabins scattered and blended into acres o steep
hillside thick with tropical cedar, and gommier and mammee-
apple trees, Jungle Bay guests eel like they reside in a
secret
orest colony. The ground alls away so precipitously that the
cabin balconies stand propped on stilts up to 30 eet high
while
the entryways sit on solid ground and the climb to some o
the rooms is a decent warm-up or the islands hikes. Inside,
the
cabins open beams and unnished walls capture a comortable
simplicity that keeps the ocus on nature. Outdoor showers
and
porches strung with hammocks ensure that you spend most o
your time in the elements.
Following a strict sustainable philosophy, the resorts res-
taurant uses dozens o local shermen and organic armers to
supply the ull range o Dominicas extraordinary bounty or
healthy dishes that go heavy on resh ruits, veggies, seaood
and chicken. Jungle Bay has also created a series o nonprots
to
help local entrepreneurs and disabled children. The entire
sta,
drawn rom the our neighboring villages, donates 10 percent o
tips (matched by the resort) to a community und and then
votes
on which local projects to support. So whether you come here
or a yoga retreat, or an adventure or wellness vacation, you
can
eel even better knowing your dollars are touching nearly
every
amily in southeast Dominica. $195 in low season ($209 high)
including breakfast; junglebaydominica.com; 767-446-1789
IndIGo I your denition o cottage is our walls and a sen
sible arrangement o windows, youd have to call Indigos Tree
Cottage an abstract take. Waking up groggy in the mosquito-
netted bed o this minimalist study in bamboo and dritwood
you might wonder who stole the ront wall. But ater slowly
taking in the anciul collection o rustic urniture, the
colorul
canvasses on the three walls, and the birds-eye view o the
or-
est that includes exotic birds looking back at you, you
remem-
ber that everything is just as it should be at Indigo.
Three miles outside Dominicas second city, Portsmouth, up
a goat track o a road leading to a knie-edge ridge smothered
in
overexuberant plant lie, lies the rustic home and studio o
Marie
Frederick and her husband, Clem. A couple o years ago, Marie
a sel-taught artist rom Normandy, began serving ital snacks
and
resh juices to visitors who came to see her art. Eventually,
she
agreed to cook ull lunches and dinners on an appointment-onl
basis. When Pirates of the Caribbean came to the island,
Johnny
Orlando, Keira and the rest took to spending long days at
Indigo
and once they ound themselves relaxing in the Fredericks
eclec
tic plein-air gallery, enjoying resh-as-can-be meals cooked over
a
primitive wood stove and getting to know Clem possibly the
rst real Rasta some had ever met the next step in Dominican
cultural adventure was asking to sleep over. Thus was born
the
Tree Cottage, a single, separate guesthouse that Clem built o n
th
ridge above the gallery, with a basic kitchenette, rustic
urniture
a private cold-water shower, an outhouse with view o Morne
C A R I B B e A n T R A V e L M A G . C o M Caribba Travl + Lif
71
uP THe LAzy RIVeR
Frm th wt-cat
tw f Prtmth, a
lgi f lcal gi
ffr bat xcri
p dmiica calm,
bracih Iia Rivr.
Continued on page 9
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
6/7
aux Diable (Devils Peak), and thanks to an electric line run
in
2008, even a small ridge. While its certainly not or
everyone
Indigos Tree House is denitely one o the Caribbeans most
unique stay-overs. From $100 year-round; indigo.wetpaint.com
767-445-3486. Gallery open Friday through Monday, 2 to 6 p.m
meals for up to four guests by appointment only (get there
before 6
p.m. or you miss the view).
Red RoCk HAVen Three surprises wait at the end o a long
driveway just east o the town o Calibishie on Dominicas
north coast. Theres a lot o local chatter about this area.
Peo-
ple say its here that the next big little things in island
tourism
will erupt. When you look up and do a double take at the
incongruous (or Dominica) sight o a killer villa complete
with Southwest fagstone acade, stone terrace with innity-
edge pool, and plunge pools o bedrooms you realize
somethings already happening. The second surprise comes
along a sandy trail that winds through sea grapes and palm
trees and leads to an honest-to-goodness beach bar. A beach
bar on Dominica? That would seem to imply A ew more
steps along the path, and damn i you dont break through th
green growth into sunlight and onto an actual beach o sot
multihued sand (no articial ingredients here).
The beach, Pointe Baptiste, orms a supple stretch o coast
between startlingly red volcanic clis. A small outcropping
jus
oshore rebus incoming waves, so theres even a permanentl
calm spot or soaking and snorkeling. Ater your bare eet ge
over the shock o being loosed rom sti hiking boots and ca-
ressed by the warm sand, you shufe back to the bar and mee
Stacey and Gina Hovde, who let the temperate rainorests o
the Pacic Northwest or the tropical kind in Dominica. Las
March, they opened the immediately popular Escape Beach Ba
& Grill (palapa-topped tables in the sand; tropical pizza,
octo
pus in coconut sauce, passion-ruit pie) and the rst two room
o Red Rock Haven. Their B amboo Guestroom invites restu
romance with a private terrace above the grove just behind
the
beach, while the Caribbean-style Garden Cottage stands on a
hillside overlooking the coast and includes a ull kitchen.
The
Caribba Travl + Lif 9
ouTsIdeR ART
Part gth,
part gallr, Iig
fatr paitig
b artit a wr
Mari Frric.
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villa vacations
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8/14/2019 Dominica - Nature Meets Nuture in the Caribbean
7/7
big test, though, awaits the completion o
the 3,000 square oot Grande Ocean Villa
(slated or late this year), when theyll dis-
cover i theres an upmarket clientele look-
ing or big luxe amid the lush. Rooms $200
in low season ($225 high); villa $600($650
high); redrockhaven.com; 767-445-7997.
Escape is open from noon until 9 p.m.
PICARd BeACH CoTTAGes
Dominicas longest beach spills into Ports-
mouths Prince Rupert Bay. Coal-black
above the high-water mark, Ayohayo
Beachs ne-ground sand turns coee col-
ored where its percolated by the wavelets.
Just behind the beach, two rows o Creole
cottages sit amid clouds o bright tropical
blooms. Its here that producers and writ-
ers or Pirates of the Caribbean washed
ashore during lming. Nameplates still
hang above the doors, and while it doesnt
have the same historical signicance as a
George Washington slept here, you do
nd yoursel wondering i your cottages
previous tenant, Jerry Mr. Blockbuster
Bruckheimer, also used the ridge to chill
mangoes hed bought ve or two bucks
at a roadside stand or hung his wet bath-
ing suit below the ceiling an to dry.
Picard is owned and operated by the
Armour amily, Dominican tourism pio-
neers whove outtted these 18 cottages
as rustic little vacation homes with basickitchens,
air-conditioned bedrooms, nice
ront porches and even Wi-Fi. You cant
get closer to a better swimming beach
on the island; theres a dive shop within
walking distance; and even though the AC
at rst seems odd on cool, green Domi-
nica, youll denitely appreciate it when
it comes to sleeping here at sea level on
the leeward side, where the heat and mos-
quitoes can be prickly. Despite its status
as temporary home to at least one movie
mogul, Picard is a budget pick and itsworth upgrading to the
beachront units.
The cuisine and service at the adjacent
restaurant are lackadaisical, but there are
several dining options nearby. The most
inspiring sight at Picard, though, may be
the 600-plus-year-old samaan tree that
watched Columbus sail by. Its at least 20
eet around at the trunk, and you cant
help but wonder: Was Jerry Bruckheimer
as tempted to climb it? From $80 in low
season ($160 high); picardbeachcottages
.com; 888-790-5264 CT+L
SUNBREEZE HOTELCentrally located in the town ofAmbergris Caye
yet out of the hustleand bustle. 43 partial ocean and gardenview
rooms, Restaurant and Bar,Massage Studio and Art Gallery, Diveshop.
Take off US$100 pp now thru Dec18, 2009. Scuba, Adventure
andHoneymoon Packages.Call Toll Free: 800-688-0191
Fax: 011-501-226-2346Email:
[email protected]
ROATAN CHARTERSpecialists in the overlooked islands ofthe
Western Caribbean since 1981. Letour Belize travel specialists
design thevacation that is right for you. Free tourcatalog features
scuba diving, junglelodges, rafting, cave tubing, fishing,
Mayanruins and more. Lowest airfares, groupincentives, travel
agents welcome.
[email protected]
www.roatan.com
RADISSON FORT GEORGEHOTEL & MARINA
A vacation in paradise awaits you at theRadisson! We offer the
services &
amenities that help you Stay Your OwnWay. Stay cool in the pool.
Stay relaxed in
our clean, comfortable rooms. Dine inone of our fine
restaurants, or stay in and
order room service. The choices are allyours at the
Radisson.
Phone: 800-333-3333 or 501-223-3333Fax: 501-227-3820
[email protected]/belizecitybz
Be one with the awakening of your senses.
Be one with Belize.As one of the last unspoiled places on earth,
youll feel an intimate
connection to life-changing experiences in Belize. Be one with
the rainforest,the Hemispheres largest barrier reef and the
mystical Maya world.
Call 800-624-0686 or visit TravelBelize.org
SUNBREEZE SUITESLocated downtown Ambergris Caye on
the beach. Private balconies overlookingthe Caribbean. Fully
equipped one
bedroom suites. Great for scuba diving,fishing, snorkeling and a
short hopperflight to explore the wonders of the
Ancient Mayan Cities. Take off US$100pp now thru Dec 18, 2009.
Scuba,
Adventure and Honeymoon Packages.
Toll Free:
1-800-820-1631sunbreezesuites@sunbreezesuites.comwww.sunbreezesuites.com
Caribba Travl + Lif 93
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