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Detailing (REF04) Textbook Version: 4.2 © 2002 - 2014 Inter-Industry Conference On Auto Collision Repair REF04-STMAN1-E

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Detailing�(REF04)

Textbook

Version:�4.2

©�2002�-�2014�Inter-Industry�Conference�On�Auto�Collision�Repair

REF04-STMAN1-E

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Detailing�(REF04)Textbook

Table�of�Contents 3

Contents

Introduction..............................................................................................................................7Obligations�To�The�Customer�And�Liability.......................................................................... 7

Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�Finish...........................................................................................13Cleaning�For� Inspection...................................................................................................... 13Inspection�Tools..................................................................................................................15Types�Of�Finish�Defects......................................................................................................16Matte�Finish�Considerations................................................................................................18Detailing�Chemistry............................................................................................................ 19Module�Wrap�Up............................................................................................................... 21

Module�2�-�Finish�Defect�Removal........................................................................................ 25Film�Thickness.................................................................................................................... 25Overspray�Removal�Methods.............................................................................................. 27Sanding�Process..................................................................................................................30Buffing................................................................................................................................ 34Other�Existing�Refinish�Damage......................................................................................... 37Module�Wrap�Up............................................................................................................... 41

Module�3�-�Final�Detailing.....................................................................................................45Interior�Detailing.................................................................................................................45Stain�Removal.....................................................................................................................47Odor�Removal.................................................................................................................... 48Interior�Treatments.............................................................................................................. 49Final�Exterior�Detailing....................................................................................................... 50Final�Check�And�Delivery...................................................................................................51Detailing�Extras...................................................................................................................52Module�Wrap�Up............................................................................................................... 55

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Introduction

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IntroductionTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 7

Obligations�To�The�Customer�And�Liability

The�collision�repair�industry�has�anobligation�to�correctly�repair�thecustomer’s�vehicle.�Collision�repairs�mustbe�performed�using:

• recommended�or�testedprocedures�from�vehicle�makers,I-CAR,�and�other�research�andtesting�organizations.

• quality�replacement�parts�andmaterials.

• repair�processes�and�parts�aswritten�and�agreed�upon�in�therepair�order.�If�items�on�the�repairagreement�are�not�consistentwith�the�repair�order,�it�can�beconsidered�fraud.

Performing�proper�collision�repairsrequires�using�parts�and�procedures�thatkeep�remaining�warranties�intact.

Collision�repairs�must�restore:

• safety.• structural�integrity.• durability.• performance.

• fit.• finish.

Throughout�the�damage�analysis�andrepair�process�the�repairer�and�insurermust:

• communicate�with�each�other.• maintain�constant�communication

with�the�customer.• be�in�agreement�with�each�other

and�the�customer�on�how�repairswill�be�performed.

• inform�the�customer�of�anychanges�in�the�repair�plan�fromthe�original�repair�agreement,�andexplain�the�changes�and�why�theyhave�to�be�made.

To�reduce�liability:

• make�sure�that�all�repairs�areperformed�thoroughly,�correctlyand�as�listed�in�the�damage�report.

• follow�proper�procedures.• have�documentation�of�required

repairs�with�detailed�recordkeeping�available�for�customers.

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IntroductionTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 8

Technicians�are�considered�theexperts�and�are�expected�to�beknowledgeable�on�how�to�performa�quality�repair.

Liability�insurance�that�covers�the�repairfacility�may�not�always�cover�all�damages.For�example:

• the�policy�may�not�coverfaulty�repairs,�leaving�liabilityresponsibility�completely�on�thefacility.

• a�shop�owner�may�find�that�repairfacility�liability�coverage�may�notcover�the�full�amount�awarded�ina�lawsuit.�The�shop�owner�wouldhave�to�pay�the�difference.

It�is�difficult�to�reduce�the�risk�of�liabilityexposure.�The�part�that�the�repairer�cancontrol�is�the�chance�of�being�found�atfault.�Chances�can�be�minimized�by:

• using�recommended�or�testedprocedures�from�the�vehiclemakers,�I-CAR,�or�other�researchand�testing�organizations.

• using�quality�replacement�partsand�materials�that�restore�fit,

finish,�durability,�and�perform�atleast�as�well�as�the�original.

• keeping�thorough�records.

Keeping�thorough�records�includes�morethan�recording�the�date,�mileage,�and�pre-existing�damage.�Record�keeping�alsoincludes:

• making�sure�all�notes�are�legible.• verifying�the�repairs�that�were

made�or�not�made.• having�the�customer�sign�a

waiver�for�repairs�that�they�donot�want�performed.�Repairersmust�determine�their�liability�onnot�repairing�safety�systems�suchas�restraint�and�anti-lock�brakesystems.

• keeping�computer�printouts�orworksheets�on�file�showing�wheelalignment�readings�or�vehicledimensions�before�and�afterrepairs.

• keeping�scan�tool�printouts�andrecords�of�computer�codes�forairbag,�anti-lock�brake,�emission,and�powertrain�control�module(PCM)�systems.

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IntroductionTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 9

• attaching�the�OEM�or�other�testedprocedure�printout�to�the�vehiclerepair�order.

• keeping�receipts�for�all�subletwork�performed.

Refer�to�"Video:�Topics�Off�Limits"�in�thepresentation.�This�video�identifies�topicsthat�should�not�be�brought�up�in�class.

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Module�1�-Inspecting�The�Finish

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 13

Cleaning�For�Inspection

Learning�objectives�for�this�moduleinclude:

• how�to�use�masking�materials�toreduce�clean-up�steps.

• identifying�tools�that�can�be�usedfor�inspecting�a�finish.

• identifying�types�of�finish�damage.• detailing�chemistry.

Spray-on�masking�is�rinsed�off�the�vehicle�with�plainwater.

When�detailing�a�vehicle�after�refinishing,do�not�remove�the�masking�from�adjacentmoldings�and�trim�pieces.�It�is�difficultto�remove�dried�polish�from�these�partsduring�final�detailing.

Spray-on�masking:

• needs�to�be�rinsed�off,�usually�withjust�plain�water.

• removal�may�be�easier�if�thewater�is�allowed�to�soak�for�a�fewminutes�before�performing�a�finalrinse.

• can�be�left�on�until�almost�alldetailing�is�completed,�to�makecleanup�easier.

Use�one�bucket�for�wash�water,�and�another�bucketfor�rinse�water.

Start�at�the�top�and�work�down.

A�wash�mitt�or�sponge�may�be�used�for�washing.

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 14

Rinse�using�a�hose�without�a�nozzle.

Washing�the�vehicle�with�soap�and�wateris�done�before�and�after�collision�repairs.When�washing�exterior�surfaces:

• use�a�liquid�car�wash�soap�andsoft�or�deionized�water.�Powderedsoap�may�not�completely�dissolve.Grains�of�undissolved�powderunder�a�sponge�or�wash�mitt�canscratch�a�finish.�Do�NOT�usedishwasher�or�laundry�detergent,which�are�too�harsh�and�can�dull�afinish.

• use�two�buckets,�one�with�thesoapy�water�and�the�other�withclear�water�for�rinsing�the�spongeor�wash�mitt.�Using�just�onebucket�will�likely�recycle�dirt�backonto�the�finish.

• start�at�the�top�of�the�vehicle�andwork�down.

• rinse�using�a�hose�without�thenozzle.�The�soap�and�water�doesthe�cleaning,�not�pressure�from�ahose�or�pressure�washer.

• the�rinse�water�should�sheet�off�thesurface,�not�bead.�Beads�will�leavewater�spotting.

Store�the�wash�mitt�in�a�sealed�plastic�bagto�keep�it�free�of�dirt.

Cover�the�metal�hose�end�with�tape�tomake�sure�it�does�not�scratch�the�surfaceif�it�accidentally�touches�the�vehicle.�If�asponge�wash�mitt�has�a�cuff,�tuck�the�cuffin�to�prevent�scratching�the�surface.

A�preferred�method�of�drying�is�to�lay�the�towel�orchamois�down�flat�and�drag�it�across�the�surface.

Shown�are�chamois�and�towel�examples.

Do�not�let�the�water�dry�on�the�surface,which�could�cause�water�spotting.�Dryby�dragging�a�towel�or�chamois�acrossthe�surface.�Do�not�scrub,�which�is�notproductive�and�may�leave�marks.�Dryusing�a:

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 15

• synthetic�chamois.�Do�not�usea�natural�chamois,�which�hasan�uneven�nap�and�is�not�easilycleaned.�Also,�a�natural�chamoisbecomes�abrasive�as�it�ages.

• thick,�natural�100%�cotton�terrytowel.�Synthetic�materials�do�notabsorb�as�well.�The�thick�napwill�absorb�the�quickest,�and�alsocapture�and�hold�any�remainingdirt�particles.�Loops�in�a�terrytowel�prevent�static�from�building,which�attracts�dirt�to�the�surface.

• microfiber�towel�as�a�final�wipe.These�are�commonly�calleddetailing�cloths.�They�can�beused�for�not�only�dry�wiping,�butfor�applying�dressings�and�othermaterials�for�interior�and�exteriorfinal�detailing.

A�squeegee�can�be�used�for�initial�drying.When�using�a�squeegee,�avoid�scratchingby�only�allowing�the�rubber�to�contact�thesurface.�Pull�the�water�off�in�broad,�evenstrokes.

Inspection�Tools

A�low-power�magnifier�will�reveal�the�depth�ofsurface�defects.

Shown�are�examples�of�magnifiers.

When�inspecting�the�vehicle�surface,whether�it�has�just�been�refinished�or�not,use�a�magnifier.�A�magnifier�allows�betterdepth�of�vision,�to�determine:

• how�deep�a�scratch�is.• whether�a�defect�has�etched�into

the�surface�or�is�just�sitting�on�top.

Knowing�the�depth�of�a�defect�willdetermine�the�detailing�that�must�be�done,or�if�refinishing�is�needed.

Vehicle�Protection

Ensure�that�tools�that�come�in�contactwith�the�finish,�such�as�a�magnifier,�donot�have�rough�or�sharp�edges�that�mightscratch�the�finish.�Creating�scratches�willresult�in�additional�detailing�work.

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 16

A�digital�film�thickness�gauge�is�necessary�for�thesmall�readings�that�must�be�taken�during�detailing.

Film�thickness�gauges:

• measure�finish�film�thicknesson�metal�in�mils�or�microns.One�mil�is�0.025�mm�or�1/1000inch.�One�micron�is�1/1000�ofone�millimeter.�Using�mils�as�ameasurement�is�most�common�inNorth�America,�and�will�be�usedin�this�course.

• are�available�as�electronic�witha�digital�display,�or�mechanicalusing�a�permanent�magnet.�Theelectronic�type�is�the�only�optionfor�detailing,�since�the�finish�mustbe�measured�in�tenths�of�one�mil.A�magnetic�gauge�cannot�measurewith�that�accuracy.

• are�available�for�measuring�afinish�on�ferrous�metal�(steel),or�nonferrous�metal,�such�asaluminum.�Some�gauges�can�beset�for�use�on�both�ferrous�andnonferrous�metals.

Conventional�finish�film�thickness�gaugesdo�not�work�on�plastic�parts.�Determineif�the�part�has�been�previously�refinished.If�the�part�has�been�refinished,�repair

technicians�should�plan�to�remove�aportion�of�or�all�of�the�coatings�to�preventexcessive�film�thickness.

Types�Of�Finish�Defects

If�possible,�look�at�the�vehicle�while�it's�still�in�thespraybooth.

Do�the�initial�inspection�of�a�refinishedvehicle�in�the�spraybooth,�if�possible.This�ensures�that�any�defects�found�thatcannot�be�removed�by�detailing�can�berepaired�before�the�vehicle�leaves�thespraybooth.

Ask�the�refinish�technician�how�muchclearcoat�was�applied,�to�help�determinethe�available�thickness�margin�fordetailing.

Most�runs�and�sags�can�be�removed�by�detailing�ifthe�color�is�not�affected.

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 17

The�types�of�defects�that�might�be�ableto�be�removed�by�detailing,�withoutrefinishing,�include:

• minor�runs�and�sags�that�did�notchange�the�color.

• overspray.• dirt�or�dust�particles.• inconsistent�orange�peel.• sandscratch�swelling.

Defects�such�as�fisheyes�in�the�final�topcoat�cannotbe�removed�by�detailing.

Defects�that�cannot�be�removed�bydetailing�and�must�be�refinishedinclude:

• fisheyes.• pinholes.• wrinkling�or�lifting.• solvent�popping.• any�defect�that�affects�the�finish

color.

Light�scratches�can�be�removed,�but�if�it�can�be�feltwith�a�fingernail�it�is�too�deep�to�be�removed�bydetailing.

Other�defects�that�cannot�be�removed�bydetailing�include:

• a�scratch�that�can�be�felt�bydrawing�a�fingernail�across�thesurface.

• a�color�mismatch.• bleeding�of�another�color�into�the

topcoat.• insufficient�hiding.

These�spots�are�from�industrial�overspray,�whichusually�can�be�removed�through�the�detailingprocess.

When�inspecting�an�existing�finish,�thedefects�can�be�from�sources�outside�of�thespraybooth.�These�include:

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 18

• industrial�fallout.• chemical�spotting.• hard�water�spotting.• acid�rain.• rail�dust.• scratches.

Bird�droppings�can�be�easily�removed,�but�thesooner�the�better.

Other�existing�finish�damage�includes:

• bird�droppings.• salt�spray.• tree�sap�or�leaf�residue.• insect�residue.• clearcoat�degradation.• single-stage�color�oxidation.

Matte�Finish�Considerations

Matte�finish�on�a�vehicle�has�a�flat�appearance.

A�matte�finish�uses�a�type�of�coatingthat�diffuses�light,�providing�a�flat�finishappearance.�Special�care�is�requiredwhen�detailing�a�vehicle�with�a�mattefinish.�Damage�may�require�refinishing.Considerations�for�detailing�matte�finishesinclude�that:

• damage�to�a�matte�coating,such�as�scratches�or�wear�fromaggressive�cleaning,�cannot�bepolished�or�buffed�out.

• it�is�not�possible�to�remove�dustinclusions�by�polishing�becausepolishing�changes�the�gloss�level.

• it�is�important�to�work�verycarefully�during�cleaning.�This�willhelp�to�avoid�damaging�the�finish.

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 19

Special�care�is�necessary�to�maintain�a�matte�finishappearance.

It�may�be�a�good�idea�to�provide�somemaintenance�tips�regarding�the�care�ofa�matte�finish�to�the�customer.�Some�ofthese�include�to:

• avoid�fuel�spillage�on�the�finish.• avoid�polishes.• avoid�automated�car�washes.• remove�insect�and�bird�residue

immediately.• use�a�gentle�spray�on�/�wipe�off

technique�when�cleaning.�Neverapply�pressure�or�rub�the�mattefinish.

Special�products�are�available�for�mattefinish�cleaning�and�protection.

Detailing�Chemistry

The�pH�scale�represents�the�range�of�acids�andalkalis�of�water�solutions.

When�assessing�damage�not�only�onexterior�surfaces,�but�also�interiorsurfaces,�a�basic�understanding�of�acidsand�alkalis�is�necessary.�The�differencebetween�the�two�can�most�easily�be�seenby�using�a�pH�scale.�On�the�pH�scale:

• the�numbers�0�-�14�refer�toconcentration�of�hydrogen�(H)and�hydroxyl�(OH)�ions�in�a�watersolution.

• number�7�is�neutral.�Pure�water,such�as�distilled�water,�has�a�pH�of7.

• numbers�below�7�are�acidic.�Thelower�the�number,�the�more�acidicthe�solution�is.�Common�acids�arecarbonated�drinks,�vinegar,�andbattery�acid.

• numbers�above�7�are�alkaline.The�higher�the�number,�the�morealkaline�the�solution�is.�Commonalkalies�are�ammonia,�bakingsoda,�and�lye�soap.

• the�numbers�increase�by�a�factorof�10�for�every�whole�numberprogression.�For�example,�achemical�with�a�pH�of�9�is

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Module�1�-�Inspecting�The�FinishTextbook

Detailing�(REF04) 20

100�times�more�alkaline�thana�chemical�with�a�pH�of�8.�Achemical�with�a�pH�of�10�is1000�times�more�alkaline�than�achemical�with�a�pH�of�9.

The�pH�scale�is�useful�when�treating�finishproblems,�or�stubborn�stains�on�fabrics.Applying�a�solution�that�has�nearly�theopposite�pH�can�neutralize�a�spot�or�stain.Once�a�spot�or�stain�is�neutralized�(pHof�7),�it�can�be�washed�away�and�will�notreturn.�An�acid�rain�spot,�for�example,�thatis�not�neutralized�will�continue�to�comeback.

A�common�cleaning�material�for�detailing�is�asolution�of�all-purpose�cleaner.

All-purpose�cleaner�may�be�used�in�variousconcentrations.�Be�sure�to�label�them�properly.

All-purpose�cleaner�is�a�common�cleaningmaterial,�available�from�most�detailingmaterial�suppliers.�All-purpose�cleaner:

• is�alkaline�(above�7�on�thepH�scale).�Most�stains�andenvironmental�finish�defects�areacidic,�so�all-purpose�cleanerneutralizes�the�defects.

• requires�diluting�with�waterfor�different�purposes.�Followthe�product�maker�dilutionrecommendations.�A�strongersolution�is�not�always�a�bettercleaner.�The�best�way�to�keepthe�solutions�separate�is�to�storethem�in�spray�bottles,�properlylabeled�for�the�specific�uses.�UsepH�neutral�water�so�the�alkalinityof�the�recommended�solution�isnot�affected.

Despite�the�name,�all-purpose�cleanersare�usually�not�the�most�effective�cleanersfor�all�surfaces.�Cleaners�for�specificsurfaces�usually�work�better�than�an�all-purpose�cleaner.�And�there�are�tasks�thatall-purpose�cleaner�should�not�be�usedfor.�For�example,�all-purpose�cleanersshould�not�be�used�as�a:

• car�wash�soap.• leather�cleaner.• wheel�cleaner�for�removing�brake

dust.

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Detailing�(REF04) 21

Every�workplace�label�requires�the�product�nameand�any�hazard�warnings�from�the�original�label�orSDS.

Most�all-purpose�cleaners�areconcentrates�that�are�diluted�anddispensed�from�a�spray�bottle.�Aworkplace�label�must�be�applied�to�thespray�bottle�containing�an�all-purposecleaner�solution�to�properly�identify�thecontents.�Requirements�for�a�workplacelabel�are:

• the�product�name,�as�stated�on�theSDS.

• any�hazardous�warnings�from�theoriginal�label.

These�are�minimum�requirements.�Aworkplace�label�can�contain�moreinformation,�such�as�the�purpose�for�thedifferent�all-purpose�cleaner�solutions.If�the�label�information�washes�off,�it�isthe�responsibility�of�the�repair�facility�toreplace�the�label�information�or�the�labelas�soon�as�possible.

Module�Wrap�Up

Topics�discussed�in�this�moduleincluded:

• using�masking�materials�to�reduceclean-up�steps.

• tools�that�can�be�used�forinspecting�a�finish.

• types�of�finish�damage.• detailing�chemistry.

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Film�Thickness

Learning�objectives�for�this�moduleinclude:

• determining�how�to�monitorfilm�thickness�and�what�to�keepin�mind�on�original�finish�andrefinish.

• using�clay�and�nib�sanders�forsmall�defect�removal.

• explaining�why�starting�withthe�least�aggressive�method�isimportant.

• using�sanding�equipment�andtechniques�for�removing�finishdefects.

• using�buffing�equipment�andtechniques�for�removing�finishdefects�and�restoring�gloss.

The�general�recommendation�with�an�original�OEMfinish�is�to�not�remove�more�than�one-half�mil�oftopcoat�when�detailing.

OEM�basecoat�/�clearcoat�and�multi-stage�finishes�are�usually�about�4.0�-�6.0mils�thick.�The�clearcoat�averages�2.0mils�thick.�Single-stage�finishes�are�3.0-�5.0�mils�thick.�Whenever�removing�adefect�from�an�original�OEM�finish,�thegeneral�recommendation�is�to�remove�no

more�than�0.5�mil�of�topcoat.�Removingexcessive�film�thickness�may�cause:

• hazing.• discoloring.• peeling.• finish�failure.

Monitor�the�film�thickness�to�make�sure�you�don'tremove�too�much�topcoat�when�detailing.

On�a�refinished�surface,�how�muchtopcoat�can�be�removed�depends�onhow�much�was�applied.�This�is�why�it�isimportant�to�ask�the�refinish�technicianhow�much�clearcoat�or�single-stage�colorwas�applied.�It�is�also�important�to�knowhow�much�minimum�clearcoat�thicknessthe�paint�maker�recommends�that�shouldremain�after�detailing�to�maintain�properUV�protection�and�warranty�preservation.The�average�is�about�2.0�mils.

Some�examples�of�paint�makerrecommendations�for�minimumclearcoat�thickness�that�should�remainafter�detailing�to�maintain�proper�UVprotection�and�warranty�preservationinclude:

• Akzo�Nobel:�2.0�mils.�The�totalfilm�thickness�on�a�new�OEM

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replacement�part�should�be�about5.0�-�6.0�mils.

• Axalta:�1.8�or�2.0�mils,�dependingon�the�clearcoat.

• PPG:�2.0�mils.• Sherwin-Williams:�2.0�-�3.0�mils.• BASF:�“2.0�mils�of�dry�film

clearcoat�must�remain�overbasecoat.�If�extensive�sanding�isanticipated,�apply�one�additionalcoat�of�clearcoat.”

To�determine�the�film�thickness�before�detailing,�takeseveral�readings�and�average�them.

Start�the�detailing�repair�plan�by�recordingan�initial�film�thickness�reading.�Monitorthe�film�thickness�frequently�throughoutthe�detailing�steps,�especially�whensanding�or�buffing.�When�making�theinitial�film�thickness�reading:

• take�several�readings.�Filmthickness�may�differ�from�panelto�panel,�and�even�across�onepanel.�Average�the�readings�to�useas�a�starting�point�for�buffing�orsanding.

• a�variable�of�more�than�0.5�milon�one�panel�usually�indicates�aprevious�repair.

• an�extreme�change�from�fender-to-door�or�door-to-quarter�panel�mayindicate�a�previous�repair.

• an�extreme�change�across�onepanel�may�mean�body�filler�ispresent.

• the�film�build�is�usually�lesson�vertical�side�panels�than�onhorizontal�panels.

All�vehicles�have�an�original,�factory-applied�E-coat�of�about�0.9�mil.�Zinc-coated�panels�will�measure�about�0.5mil�thicker�than�panels�without�zinccoating.

Most�paint�makers�have�at�least�a�minimum�waittime�before�a�freshly�refinished�surface�can�besanded�or�buffed.

Defect�removal�from�a�fresh�refinishis�best�done�within�a�time�window.Detailing�a�new�refinish:

• before�the�time�window�starts�candamage�the�finish�because�it�is�toosoft.

• after�the�time�window�ends�couldresult�in�a�finish�that�is�too�hard,making�defect�removal�difficult.

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The�time�window�varies�between�4�-�48hours�after�the�refinish�topcoats�have�beenapplied.�The�length�of�this�time�windowdepends�on:

• the�method�used�to�cure�the�finish,either�air-�or�force-drying.

• the�type�of�refinish�material.• the�paint�maker’s

recommendations.• ambient�conditions�such�as

temperature�and�humidity.

Know�the�time�window�for�the�refinishmaterial�that�was�applied.

Specified�time�windows�from�some�paintmakers�include:

• Akzo�Nobel:�Follow�therecommended�force-dry�or�bakeguidelines�and�then�allow�repairto�cool�for�1�1/2�hours�beforedetailing.�There�is�no�maximumlimit.

• BASF:�Wait�24�hours�if�air-dry�orwhen�cool�after�force-dry.�There�isno�maximum�limit.

• Axalta:�Sand�and�polish�within�2�-12�hours�after�cool-down�if�force-dry.�There�is�no�maximum�limit.

• PPG:�Sand�and�polish�when�hard,typically�8�hours�after�air-dry.There�is�no�maximum�limit.

• Sherwin-Williams:�Wait�1�1/2�-�2hours�after�air-dry,�or�20�minutes�ifforce-dry�after�cool-down.�There�isno�maximum�limit.

Overspray�Removal�Methods

Professional�clay�for�removing�defects�is�available.Do�not�use�modeling�clay.

Overspray�is�a�common�defect�on�arefinished�vehicle.�One�of�the�mosteffective�methods�of�removing�oversprayis�the�use�of�a�clay�bar.�Several�defectscan�be�removed�using�clay.�Clay�is�anonaggressive�material�that:

• is�specially�formulated�for�defectremoval.�Modeling�clay�is�NOT�asubstitute.

• works�on�any�hard�surface.�Claywill�not�work�on�soft,�poroustrim�or�moldings,�especially�ifcontaminants�have�penetrated�thesurface.

• is�effective�for�removing�overspraybecause�the�overspray�is�ona�surface�that�is�not�preparedfor�it.�There�is�no�chemical�ormechanical�bond,�so�the�materialsticks�to�the�clay�when�it�is�rubbedacross�the�surface.

• can�reach�where�buffing�orsanding�may�not,�or�wheresolvents�may�be�damaging.

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Always�keep�the�surface�and�the�clay�wet�with�therecommended�lubricant,�usually�just�a�car�washsoap�and�water�solution.

When�using�clay:

• always�use�the�recommendedlubricant,�usually�a�car�wash�soapand�water�solution.�Clay�shouldnot�be�used�dry.

• contaminants�will�be�loosenedand�captured�in�the�clay,�but�allthe�residue�will�not.�The�area�mustbe�wiped�with�a�thick-nappedtowel�to�capture�the�remainingloose�contaminants.

• occasionally�fold�the�clay�to�forma�patty�that�exposes�a�new�surface.Eventually,�the�clay�bar�should�bereplaced.

• discard�if�it�is�dropped.�Clay�willpick�up�any�dirt�or�dust�it�fallson,�which�would�likely�scratch�asurface.

Ensure�that�the�wiping�cloth�is�lint�free.Some�clay�comes�with�its�own�wipingcloth�as�part�of�the�kit.

Ensure�that�the�spray�bottle�containing�thelubricant,�even�if�it’s�car�wash�soap�and

water,�is�properly�labeled�to�identify�thecontents.

Refer�to�Module�2,�"Video:�Using�Clay"for�a�video�showing�clay�being�used�toremove�overspray.

Scraping�with�a�plastic�razor�blade�is�anotherrecommended�overspray�removal�method.

Shown�is�one�example�of�plastic�razor�blades.

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Besides�clay,�other�methods�for�removingoverspray�include:

• scraping�on�glass�with�a�plasticrazor�blade.�Metal�razor�bladescan�easily�scratch�glass.

• applying�a�solvent�from�aspray�bottle�and�wiping�off�theoverspray.

• using�a�sponge�pad�and�anadhesive�cleaner�on�freshoverspray,�or�a�mild�buffingcompound�on�dried�overspray.

• sanding,�followed�by�buffing.�Thisis�performed�in�extreme�cases.

Do�not�use�steel�wool,�which�is�tooaggressive,�and�also�leaves�metal�fibers�increvices�that�will�corrode.

KPI�Improvement�Tip

Proper�removal�of�overspray�will�enhancecustomer�satisfaction.

Chrysler�has�a�bulletin�providing�certain�oversprayremoval�procedures.

Chrysler�bulletin�number�31-001-13includes�procedures�for�removingoverspray�resulting�from:

• industrial�fallout.• poor�refinishing�processes.

Depending�on�the�severity�and�extentof�the�overspray,�the�removal�processwill�vary.�Always�begin�by�using�the�leastaggressive�method.�Some�of�the optionsinclude:

• washing�with�soap�and�water.• using�a�detail�spray�and�a

microfiber�cloth.• using�clay.• using�a�rotary�buffer�with�a�foam

pad�along�with�buffing�/�polishingcompound.

• wet�sanding.

Measure�the�film�thickness�before�andafter�buffing�and�sanding.�Do�not�removetoo�much�of�the�clearcoat.�The�bulletinstates�to�not�remove�more�than�0.2�mils�ofclearcoat�when�polishing,�and�not�morethan�0.5�mils�when�wet�sanding.

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Sanding�Process

Sanding�processes�include�hand�wet�sanding�andmachine�sanding.�Wet�sanding�can�be�done�by�handor�machine.�Dry�sanding�can�be�done�by�machineonly.

The�sanding�process:

• is�like�planing�the�surface.�Thedefect,�such�as�excessive�orangepeel,�is�brought�down�to�the�levelof�the�surrounding�surface.

• keeps�the�correction�area�flat�andin�a�small�area.

• includes�nib�sanding,�hand�wetsanding,�and�machine�dry�and�wetsanding.�What�process�and�toolsto�use�depends�on�the�size�of�therepair�area,�the�tools�available,and�personal�preference.

• requires�starting�with�the�sandinggrit�that�will�remove�the�defect,then�progressing�to�finer�grits�toremove�the�previous�grit�scratches.It�is�not�necessary�to�step�througheach�grit.�One�grit�can�be�skipped.As�an�example,�the�progressionof�grits�in�one�system�is�P1000,P1200,�P1500,�P2000,�and�P3000.If�starting�with�P1200,�skip�onegrit�and�follow�up�with�P2000.Do�not�skip�two�grits�and�go�rightto�P3000.�That�would�not�beproductive.

Nib�removal�tools�remove�one�small�defect�at�a�time,by�rubbing�over�the�defect�in�a�small�circular�motion.

Shown�here�is�one�example�of�a�denibbing�sandingmachine.

Shown�here�is�a�self-contained�abrasive�block�for�nibsanding.

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Shown�here�are�various�nib�sanding�tools.

Nib�removal�sanding�tools�are�forremoving�small�defects�in�a�small�area,such�as�dirt�nibs,�small�runs,�etc.�Thesetools�may�be�small�sanding�blocks�orpads,�or�an�electric denibbing�tool.

The�blocks�come�in�five�grits�ranging�fromP400�to�P3000.�The�mid-range�grit,�P1500is�good�to�start�with�for�most�defects.�Ifthis�grit�is�not�productive,�start�with�amore�aggressive�grit.�After�the�defect�isremoved,�switch�to�wet�sanding�with�thenext�finest�grit�to�remove�the�scratches.Progress�to�finer�grits�until�all�scratchesare�gone,�then�finish�with�buffing�the�areato�restore�the�gloss.�The�sanding�padsaccept�specially�sized,�adhesive-backedsandpaper,�also�in�progressively�finegrits.�Use�the�pads�similar�to�the�blocks,following�with�wet�sanding�and�buffing.Generally,�when�using�nib�removaltools:

• keep�the�surface�wet�with�a�spraywater�bottle.

• move�in�a�small,�circular�motionwith�little�pressure.

• check�the�progress�of�the�repairoften.

One�example�of�an�electric�denibbingtool is�part�of�the�3M�Perfect-It™denibbing�system.�This�system�includes�a3-speed�machine�with�1000�grit�and�1500grit�abrasive�bits.�The�abrasive�is�attachedto�a�small�circular�foam�pad�at�the�end�ofthe�bits. Machine�polishing equipment�isalso�part�of�this�denibbing�system.

Using�the�appropriate�bit�and�denibbingmachine�speed�setting,�sanding�is�doneusing�a�light�pressure,�trying�to�notcollapse�the�foam�and�keeping�theabrasive�moving.�Using�water�maybe�necessary�when�denibbing�someclearcoats.�The�machine�speed�settingsinclude:

• slow,�for�soft�/�uncured�surfaces.• fast�for�hard�/�cured�surfaces.• medium. Medium�speed�is

recommended�as�a�starting�point.

Refer�to�Module�2,�"Video:�Nib�Sanding"for�a�video�showing�methods�for�nibsanding�using�nib�sanding�tools.

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Hand�wet�sanding�slowly�and�steadily�planesthe�surface�to�remove�the�defects�and�bring�thesurrounding�area�level.

Shown�here�are�examples�of�hand�wet�sandingsponges.

Wet�sanding�by�hand�is�done�using�wet/dry�sandpaper�on�a�sponge-backing�pad.The�sandpaper�may�need�presoaking.

When�hand�wet�sanding,�keep�the�surfacewet�with�a�water�spray�bottle�or�a�runninghose.�Do�not�use�a�sponge�dipped�ina�bucket,�which�makes�it�too�easy�torecycle�the�sanding�sludge�back�onto�thesurface.

Listen�and�feel�for�dirt�between�the�pad�and�thesurface�when�wet�sanding.

When�hand�wet�sanding:

• listen�and�feel�for�dirt�between�thepad�and�the�surface.�One�speck�ofdirt�can�scratch�a�surface�beyond�adetailing�repair.

• generally,�start�with�P1500.�If�thereis�no�progress,�start�with�the�nextaggressive�grit,�P1200.�When�thedefect�is�removed,�switch�to�afiner�grit�to�remove�the�previousgrit�scratches,�not�skipping�morethan�one�grit.�Cross�the�previousgrit�scratches�diagonally�with�thefiner�grit,�ending�with�the�finestgrit�along�body�lines.�It�is�easier�toremove�cross�sandscratches�thanall�parallel�scratches.

After�wet�sanding�with�the�finestgrit,�follow�with�buffing�to�removesandscratches�and�restore�the�gloss.

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Refer�to�Module�2,�"Video:�Wet�Sanding"for�a�video�showing�methods�for�wetsanding.

Machine�sanding�can�be�wet�or�dry,�and�is�donewith�a�finishing�sander.

Shown�are�examples�of�machine�finish�sandingmaterials.

The�machine�finish�sanding�process:

• includes�dry�sanding�only,�and�dryor�wet�sanding,�depending�on�thesystem�used.

• uses�a�finishing�sander.�A�finishingsander�has�a�shorter�stroke,�andis�therefore�less�aggressive,�than�aregular�dual-action�(DA)�sander.

• usually�uses�a�soft�interface�padto�make�the�process�even�moreless�aggressive�than�sanding�with�aregular�DA.

• for�grit�selection,�varies�with�thesystem�being�used.�With�somedry�systems,�the�most�aggressivestarting�grit�is�P800,�which�isequivalent�to�P1200�when�handwet�sanding.

One�example�of�a�machine�finish�sandingsystem�is�the�3M�Trizact™�system.�Thisis�a�machine�wet�sanding�system�using�aspecial�P3000�grit�disc,�with�or�withoutan�interface�pad.�The�Trizact™�spotrepair�procedure�begins�by�sandingwith�P1500�grit�wet�or�dry,�followed�bymachine�wet�sanding�with�the�P3000Trizact™�disc,�followed�by�buffing�with�aspecial�machine�glaze.�There�is�no�needfor�buffing�with�a�compound�with�spotrepairs.

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Refer�to�Module�2,�"Video:�MachineFinish�Sanding"�for�a�video�on�machinefinish�sanding�techniques.

Buffing

Compounds�remove�defects,�polishes�restore�glossand�remove�minor�defects,�and�waxes�provideprotection.

Shown�are�various�buffing�products.

Three�basic�types�of�buffing�materials�arereferenced�in�this�Program�for�detailing.They�include:

• compounds,�for�removing�defects.• polishes,�for�restoring�gloss�and

removing�very�minor�defects.• waxes�and�sealants,�for�extended

protection.

Product�makers�use�different�names�todescribe�these�materials.�For�example,compounds�may�be�called�a�polishing,finishing,�or�rubbing�compound,or�a�heavy-cut�cleaner.�Look�at�therecommended�use�and�ingredients�of�thematerial,�not�the�name.

The�only�way�to�ensure�that�buffing�materials�willwork�properly�is�to�start�and�stay�with�one�system�ofmaterials�throughout�the�process.

When�detailing,�and�especially�with�thebuffing�process,�stay�with�one�system�ofmaterials�and�equipment.�This�ensuresthat�the:

• materials�are�compatible.• proper�steps�are�used�in�the�right

order.• proper�application�tools�and

materials�are�used.

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It�is�necessary�to�become�skilled�with�a�professionalrotary�buffer�for�the�best�detailing.

Machine�compounds�and�polishes�arebest�applied�with�a�rotary�buffer.�Rotarybuffers:

• are�either�electric�or�pneumatic.• may�be�variable�or�at�two�fixed

levels.�Variable�speed�at�the�triggerwith�a�range�of�0�-�1,800�rpmis�best.�The�speed�should�neverexceed�2,000�rpm.�Slower�bufferspeeds�are�recommended�onbumper�covers�and�other�flexibleplastic�parts�to�minimize�thegenerated�heat.

Start�a�rotary�buffer�when�it�is�on�thepanel.�The�speed�is�higher�when�thebuffer�is�freewheeling�off�the�panel.�Themore�speed,�the�harder�the�buffer�is�tocontrol�and�the�more�heat�is�generatedfrom�friction.�Allow�the�weight�of�thebuffer�to�do�the�work.�Do�not�applyexcess�pressure,�or�too�much�heat�will�begenerated.

Wool�or�foam�depends�on�the�product�makerrecommendations�and�in�some�cases�personalpreference.

Buffing�pads�are�available�in�wool�orfoam.�Foam�buffing�pads:

• do�not�give�off�lint.• generate�more�heat�than�wool

because�there�is�more�contact�withthe�surface.

Wool�buffing�pads�are:

• usually�a�wool�/�synthetic�blend.• naturally�more�aggressive�than

foam.�For�this�reason,�wool�padsare�more�likely�to�leave�swirlmarks.

Wool�pads,�for�both�compoundingand�polishing,�may�have�twisted�oruntwisted�strands.�Generally,�twistedstrand�pads�are�more�aggressive.�This�mayrequire�more�skill�to�prevent�swirl�marks,especially�with�pads�designed�for�use�withcompound.�Two�advantages�of�a�twistedwool�pad�are�that�there�is�slower�productbuildup,�and�there�is�less�lint�released.

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Whether�to�use�wool�or�foam,�and�whattype�of�wool�or�foam,�is�based�mostly�onthe�product�maker’s�recommendation.�Thedecision�is�also�based�on�the�conditionof�the�surface,�how�fresh�the�refinish,�theskill�level�of�the�technician,�and�personalpreference.

Study�the�chart.�Smaller�pads�are�less�aggressive�andeasier�to�control�because�the�edges�are�turning�at�aslower�rate.

Buffing�pads�are�available�in�differentsizes,�both�in�diameter�and�thickness.Generally,�the�smaller�the�pad,�the:

• lower�the�edge�speed.�The�outeredge�of�any�pad,�whether�it�islarge�or�small,�does�most�of�thework,�and�therefore�dries�quicker.A�slower�edge�speed�will�allowthe�material�to�stay�wet�longerthan�a�faster�edge�speed�on�largerdiameter�pads.

• easier�to�control.• easier�to�follow�panel�contours.

Always�start�with�a�clean�pad�and�keep�control�ofthe�buffer.

Shown�are�examples�of�buffing�pad�cleaners.

Generally,�when�using�a�power�rotarybuffer:

• always�use�a�clean�pad.�Clean�thepad�before�and�during�buffing�tominimize�swirl�marks.

• change�pads�when�switching�to�adifferent�material.�This�applies�tonot�only�when�switching�betweena�compound�and�a�polish,�but�alsobetween�compounds�and�betweenpolishes.�Most�product�makershave�at�least�a�two-step�compoundprocess,�and�different�grades�ofpolishes.�Each�of�these�productsmay�require�a�different�type�ofpad.

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• buff�away�from�a�raised�body�linerather�than�into�it.�The�finish�isthinner�along�body�lines.�Oneoption�is�to�avoid�body�lines�whenmachine�buffing,�or�apply�a�stripof�masking�tape�on�the�body�line,to�avoid�cutting�through.�Later,work�the�body�line�by�hand.

• if�there�are�different�contours�ona�panel,�buff�from�a�high�to�a�lowarea.�Do�not�buff�from�a�low�to�ahigh�area,�such�as�between�a�hoodand�a�fender.�This�may�put�toomuch�pressure�on�the�high�area.

KPI�Improvement�Tip

Using�the�proper�buffing�materials�andmethods�will�ensure�a�timely�delivery�andreduce�rework.

Other�Existing�Refinish�Damage

The�only�way�to�remove�a�scratch�is�to�bring�thesurrounding�surface�down�to�the�deepest�level�of�thescratch.

Scratches�in�a�finish:

• includes�swirl�marks�andsandscratches.

• requires�bringing�the�surroundingfinish�to�the�deepest�depth�of�thescratch.

• requires�sanding,�buffing,�or�both,depending�on�the�depth�of�thescratch.

If�you�can�feel�the�scratch�with�your�fingernail,�it'stoo�deep�to�be�removed�by�detailing.

Generally,�if�a�scratch�can�be�felt�whendrawing�a�fingernail�backwards�across�it,it�is�at�least�2�mils�deep�and�cannot�beremoved�by�detailing.�A�scratch�can�alsonot�be�removed�if:

• the�primer�is�visible.• it�requires�removing�too�much

topcoat.

Use�a�low-power�magnifier�or�magnifyingglass�to�determine�the�depth�of�a�scratchthat�cannot�be�felt.

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Water�drops�on�the�alkaline�side�of�the�pH�scalecontain�minerals�that�can�cause�spotting�after�thewater�evaporates.

Hard�water�spotting,�also�called�alkalinerain,�can�be�caused�by:

• evaporation�of�hard�water,�leavingmineral�deposits�on�the�finish.

• lime�deposits�from�drops�off�freshconcrete.

Hard�water�spotting�is�usually�just�onthe�top�of�the�surface,�removable�by�agood�car�washing.�If�the�problem�is�moresevere,�try�a�clay�bar.�As�a�last�resort,�usean�acid�solution�of�vinegar�and�water�(onepart�white�vinegar�to�two�parts�water),followed�by�a�clean�water�rinse.�Thiscannot�be�done�on�a�fresh�refinish.

Problems�with�hard�water�spottingevaporation�is�why�one�of�the�best�timesto�wash�a�vehicle�is�after�a�light�rain�orheavy�dew.�Washing�with�car�wash�soapand�water�and�drying�will�remove�thedrops�before�they�have�a�chance�to�dry�onthe�surface.

Water�drops�that�are�on�the�acid�side�of�the�pH�scalebecome�a�problem�when�the�water�evaporates�andthe�acid�etches�into�the�finish.

Acid�rain:

• is�rain�contaminated�withpollutants�in�the�atmosphere.

• is�weak�when�it�first�falls,�butbecomes�more�active�when�thewater�evaporates,�because�the�acidis�less�diluted.

• can�etch�into�or�dull�a�finish.Finish�color�has�no�effect�on�howmuch�acid�rain�will�etch�into�afinish.

Repeated�washings�will�remove�most�acid�rainproblems.

Treat�acid�rain�damage�by:

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• assessing�the�damage.�Determinewhether�the�drops�have�etchedinto�the�finish.

• neutralizing�the�acid�by�washingand�repeatedly�rinsing.�Use�carwash�soap�or�a�slightly�alkalinesolution�of�all-purpose�cleaner.

• polishing�to�restore�the�gloss,�ifneeded.

If�the�damage�is�deep�enough�to�befelt,�it�may�require�sanding�to�level�thedefect�and�possibly�refinishing.�It�is�stillnecessary,�however,�to�first�neutralize�theacid�or�the�problem�will�reappear.

If�acid�rain�spots�reappear�after�repeatedrinses,�apply�a�baking�soda�solution.Dilute�16�milliliters�of�baking�soda�perliter�of�water�(one�tablespoon�per�quart).Apply�the�solution�with�a�spray�bottle�andrinse�after�no�more�than�a�few�minutes.

A�severe�case�of�industrial�fallout�like�this�requiresclay.

Industrial�fallout�is�anything�man-madethat�falls�from�the�air.�This�includes:

• tiny�particles�from�smokestacks.• splatter�from�fresh�asphalt�roads.

• jet�fuel�contamination.

The�fallout�can�be�identified�by�a�roughfinish�texture.�Correcting�the�problem�mayrequire:

• a�direct�application�of�all-purposecleaner,�if�the�defects�are�just�onthe�surface.

• a�clay�bar,�if�there�are�particles�oran�overspray�of�a�material.

• buffing,�if�the�defects�remain�afterremoving�the�fallout�material.

The�corroded�rail�dust�on�this�white�panel�is�causedby�worn�metallic�brake�pads�spitting�out�hot�ironfilings.

Rail�or�metal�dust�is�iron�particles�thatsettle�into�finished�surfaces.�Rail�dust�cancome�from�several�sources,�including:

• railroad�tracks.�This�fallout�usuallyoccurs�when�vehicles�are�beingtransported�on�rail�from�thevehicle�maker.�Most,�if�not�all,�ofthis�rail�dust�is�removed�during�thepredelivery�inspection�process.

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• iron�filings�from�semimetallicbrake�pads�as�the�brakes�androtors�wear�down.

• fallout�from�manufacturing�plantsthat�use�steel�such�as�foundries,fabrication�shops,�and�stampingplants.

• metal�grinding�or�welding�sparks,especially�when�the�finish�is�fresh.

Inspect�for�rail�dust�by:

• feeling�for�a�rough�finish.�On�darkcolors,�the�particles�may�be�moreeasily�felt�than�seen.

• lightly�rubbing�with�a�cotton�cloth.The�imbedded�particles�may�snagsome�lint�off�the�cloth,�which�iseasily�seen.

• using�a�magnifier�to�look�for�small,sharp-edged,�dark�spots�stickingup�from�the�surface.�There�maybe�staining�around�the�particlesas�corrosion�forms,�blue�on�darkcolors�and�orange�on�light�colors.

Clay�might�work�to�remove�rail�dust,�or�a�moreaggressive�acid�solution�might�be�needed.

To�remove�rail�dust,�Do�not�sand�or�buff.The�particles�will�likely�break�off�at�thetop�and�scratch�the�surface�beyond�adetailing�repair.

Assess�the�problem�and�remove�bystarting�with�the�least�aggressive�method.Try�a�clay�bar�first.�A�clay�bar�will�usuallywork,�especially�on�brake�dust.�If�claydoes�not�work,�there�are�at�least�three�acidsolution�systems�available,�including�athree-step�system.

Oxalic�acid,�in�gel�or�liquid�form,�shouldonly�be�used�as�a�last�resort.�When�usingoxalic�acid,�lay�a�wet�towel�on�the�vehiclesurface�for�a�few�minutes�to�loosen�the�raildust�particles.�A�terry�cloth�towel�shouldbe�used�that�has�enough�nap�to�allow�theparticles�to�embed�in�the�napping.

Some�examples�of�OEM�rail�dust�removalrecommendations�include:

• Chrysler:�clay�only.• Ford,�Nissan,�Mazda:�The

ValuGard�A-B-C�system.�Thisis�a�three-step�solution�of�acidneutralizer,�alkaline�neutralizer,and�neutral�surface�conditioner.

• GM:�clay�first,�then�oxalic�acid�gelif�there�is�still�rail�dust�remaining.

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This�vehicle�has�obvious�clearcoat�degradation.

Clearcoat�degradation�is�the�result�of�aclearcoat�being�exposed�to�the�ultraviolet(UV)�rays�of�the�sun�for�a�long�time.On�single-stage�finishes,�the�result�isoxidation.�Clearcoat�degradation:

• is�most�severe�on�dark�colorsexposed�to�heat.

• looks�dull,�or�whitish.• can�usually�be�corrected�by

buffing�with�a�polish�to�restore�thegloss.

• in�extreme�cases,�requiresrefinishing.

Bird�droppings�and�insect�residue�are�usually�acidicand�may�over�time�etch�into�the�surface�just�like�acidrain.

Organic�fallout�is�contamination�fromnatural�sources.�The�fallout�is�almost�allmildly�acidic,�which�can�etch�a�finish�ifthe�contaminant�is�not�removed�in�a�shorttime.�Types�of�organic�fallout�include:

• insect�residue.�This�is�most�easilyremoved�with�a�clay�bar.

• tree�sap,�which�is�usually�watersoluble.�Terpenes�from�somepine�trees�will�etch�a�finish.�Useturpentine�to�remove�tree�sap�thatwill�not�wash�off�with�car�washsoap�and�water.

• bird�droppings,�which�are�usuallyacidic�but�may�be�alkalinedepending�on�the�bird’s�diet.�Theeasiest�repair�is�to�remove�thedroppings�as�soon�as�possible.

• salt�spray,�which�can�get�behindmoldings�and�trim�and�speed�upthe�corrosion�process.�Rinsingwith�a�pressure�washer�may�beneeded�to�force�water�into�hiddenareas.�It�may�be�necessary�toremove�trim�pieces�to�make�surethe�salt�is�rinsed�off.

After�removing�organic�fallout,�buffingwith�a�polish�or�even�a�compound�may�benecessary�to�remove�shallow�craters�andrestore�the�gloss.

Module�Wrap�Up

Topics�discussed�in�this�moduleincluded:

• monitoring�film�thickness�andwhat�to�keep�in�mind�on�originalfinish�and�refinish.

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• using�clay�and�nib�sanders�forsmall�defect�removal.

• starting�with�the�least�aggressivemethod.

• sanding�equipment�andtechniques�for�removing�finishdefects.

• buffing�equipment�and�techniquesfor�removing�finish�defects�andrestoring�gloss.

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Module�3�-�FinalDetailing

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This�page�is�intentionally�left�blank.

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Interior�Detailing

Learning�objectives�for�this�moduleinclude:

• defining�a�detailer’s�checklist�andwhy�a�checklist�is�important.

• defining�materials�for�final�exteriorand�interior�detailing.

• removing�a�stain�using�the�pHscale.

• removing�odors.• defining�the�final�exterior�touch-up

steps.

Using�a�checklist�when�detailing�makes�the�job�moreefficient�and�consistent.

The�best�way�to�ensure�a�final�detailis�done�right�is�to�use�a�checklist.�Achecklist:

• ensures�that�all�steps�are�done,without�repetition.

• ensures�that�the�steps�are�done�inthe�proper�order.

• keeps�the�detailing�processconsistent�from�one�vehicle�to�thenext,�and�one�detailing�technicianto�the�next.

• can�be�signed�and�given�to�thevehicle�owner.

Download�the�I-CAR�Detailing�Checklisthandout�in�PDF�format.�This�handoutpresents�a�step-by-step�checklist�for�thedetailing�process.

Remove�any�loose�dirt�on�interiors�first�byvacuuming.

Shown�are�examples�of�detailing�brushes.

Begin�the�interior�detailing�byvacuuming:

• vents�and�other�tight�areas.�Asoft�detailing�brush,�ahead�ofthe�vacuum�nozzle,�will�helpwork�dirt�off�the�surface.�A�simpledetailing�brush�can�be�madefor�this�purpose�by�cutting�off�a

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paintbrush.�Tape�the�metal�band�toprotect�surfaces.

• carpets�and�seats�using�a�stiffbristle�brush�to�pick�up�the�napand�work�the�dirt�or�salt�out�of�thefabric.

The�goal�of�shampooing�fabric�surfaces�is�to�removedirt�that�vacuuming�could�not.

After�vacuuming,�the�next�step�is�toshampoo�the�carpet�and�upholstery.When�shampooing�fabric�carpet�andupholstery:

• test�if�colorfast�in�a�hidden�area.�Ifthe�color�does�not�come�off�whenblotting�with�a�cloth�soaked�in�theshampoo,�it�is�colorfast.

• use�a�soft-bristled�brush�orcoarse�sponge�to�gently�work�theshampoo.�A�bristle�brush�will�pickup�the�nap�on�fabric�carpets�andupholstery.�Allow�the�material�todo�the�work.

• clean�the�surface.�Do�not�try�andwork�the�cleaner�into�the�backing.

• use�as�little�water�as�possible.�Ifwater�soaks�into�the�seat�or�carpet,it�may�cause�flame-retardantmaterial�to�come�to�the�surface.�It

may�also�cause�mildew.�Considera�wet�/�dry�vacuum�to�removeexcess�water.

• consider�an�extractor�as�an�option.An�extractor�applies�the�waterand�shampoo�and�removes�thesolution�in�one�step.

Only�use�a�mild�shampoo,�close�to�pH7,�on�seat�belt�fabric.�Avoid�chemicalcleaners,�especially�petroleum-basedcleaners,�which�will�deteriorate�thewebbing.

Be�gentle�when�cleaning�headliners,�wiping�in�onedirection�with�a�damp�cloth.

Fabric�headliners�are�more�delicate�thanseat�fabric.�To�clean�fabric�headliners:

• use�a�slightly�damp,�folded�towel,such�as�a�microfiber�towel.�Wetthe�towel�with�all-purpose�cleanerand�wring�it�out.

• move�in�one�direction,�front�toback,�to�keep�the�nap�looking�thesame.�Clean�fabric�sun�visors�thesame�way.

• Do�not�vacuum,�scrub,�or�brushheavily.

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Stain�Removal

Most�interior�stains�are�acidic.

Common�stains�in�carpets�and�seats:

• are�mostly�acidic,�or�below�7�onthe�pH�scale.

• can�be�neutralized�with�analkaline�solution,�such�as�all-purpose�cleaner.�Alkaline�stains,such�as�fresh�eggs�or�water�spots,can�be�neutralized�with�a�mildacid�solution,�such�as�vinegar�andwater.

• enter�in�a�liquid,�which�thenevaporates�leaving�only�thepigments.�The�stain�must�be�madeinto�a�liquid�again�so�it�can�beeasily�removed.

There�may�be�traces�of�sodium�hydroxidepowder�left�after�an�airbag�deployment.If�mixed�with�water,�sodium�hydroxidebecomes�a�strong�alkaline.�This�is�why�itis�very�important�to�vacuum�all�traces�ofpowder�left�after�an�airbag�deployment,before�the�powder�comes�in�contact�withwater.

A�clean�cloth,�dull�knife�for�scraping�off�solids,�and�afew�cleaning�solutions�are�all�that's�usually�necessaryfor�stain�removal.

Materials�and�tools�for�removing�stainsinclude:

• a�clean,�absorbent�cloth.• a�dull�knife,�for�scraping�up�solid

materials.• cleaning�solutions.�Different

strengths�of�all-purpose�cleanerworks�for�removing�most�stains.

• a�spray�bottle�with�clean�water�forrinsing.

The�word�to�remember�with�stain�removal�is�“blot,”instead�of�the�natural�tendency�to�rub.

The�best�way�to�remove�a�stain�is�byapplying�the�cleaning�solution�around�thestain.�This�allows�the�solution�to�wick�intothe�stain.�If�the�solution�is�applied�directlyto�the�stain,�the�stain�could�spread.

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Then�use�a�clean,�dry�cloth�and�blot�thestain.�Follow�with�a�water�rinse�and�blotagain.�If�the�stain�does�not�come�out,repeat�the�process.

Refer�to�Module�3,�"Video:�RemovingA�Stain"�for�a�video�on�stain�removaltechniques.

Odor�Removal

The�first�step�when�removing�an�odor�is�to�find�andremove�the�source.

Most�odors�are�a�by-product�of�bacteria.The�first�step�in�removing�odors�is�toidentify�and�remove�the�source.�If�thesource�is�spilled�food,�for�example,�thefirst�step�is�removing�any�remains�of�thespill,�then�cleaning�the�area.

A�musty�odor�from�the�air�conditioning�(A/C)�system,�most�noticeable�when�startingthe�vehicle,�is�usually�from�bacteriagrowing�on�the�A/C�evaporator�core.This�odor�may�be�beyond�a�detailingrepair.�Depending�on�the�air�conditioningsystem,�removing�the�source�of�that�odorcould�mean:

• turning�the�defroster�on�andspraying�an�odor�eliminator�in�theair�intake�vent.

• replacing�an�air�filter.• disassembling�part�of�the�system,

cleaning�out�any�debris�on�theevaporator�core,�and�applying�adisinfectant.

KPI�Improvement�Tip

Customers�will�be�more�satisfied�withthe�repair�if�there�is�no�evidence�of�theodor�in�the�vehicle.�Bacteria�as�well�aschemical�products�leave�odors�and�haveto�be�removed�in�order�to�eliminate�theodor.�This�will�enhance�the�customersatisfaction�experience.

If�it�is�necessary�to�apply�a�chemical,�it�should�haveno�smell,�but�be�designed�to�neutralize�existingsmells.

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After�removing�the�odor�source,�spray�achemical�neutralizer�or�an�odor�remover,if�this�is�needed.�Do�not�spray�or�hang�adeodorizer,�which�only�masks�an�odor.

Interior�Treatments

Conditioners�provide�moisture�to�porous�materials�toprevent�fading,�drying,�and�cracking.

Conditioners�or�dressings:

• help�prevent�fading�and�drying.• should�be�silicone-free�for

collision�repair�facilities.�Silicone-free�materials�work�just�as�well�asmaterials�that�contain�silicone.

• if�high�gloss,�usually�have�anothermaterial�in�the�product�linethat�is�low�gloss�for�the�tops�ofinstrument�panels.

• should�not�be�applied�on�pedalsor�the�steering�wheel,�becauseconditioners�may�make�surfacesslippery.

KPI�Improvement�Tip

Use�of�silicone�products�on�any�part�of�thevehicle�causes�significant�refinish�issues,such�as�fisheyes,�and�can�be�a�source

of�rework�that�will�lengthen�the�repairprocess.

When�cleaning�and�conditioning�leather,�only�usecleaning�and�conditioning�materials�designed�for�useon�leather.

Leather�interior�surfaces:

• may�be�natural�or�artificial�hide.• must�be�cleaned�with�a�cleaner

designed�for�leather,�not�vinyl.• must�be�conditioned�with�a�leather

dressing�or�oil.

To�avoid�possible�discoloration,�testcleaners�and�dressings�in�a�hidden�areafirst.

Use�specialized�applicators�and�brushes�or�a�regularcotton�swab�for�hard-to-reach�interior�surfaces.

Treatments�for�some�other�interior�surfacesinclude:

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• using�a�cotton�swab�dipped�in�all-purpose�cleaner�for�dirt�on�vents,radio�controls,�etc.

• removing�window�tinting�film�ordecal�remnants�on�glass�with�aplastic�razor�blade.

Final�Exterior�Detailing

Condition�weatherstripping�with�a�dressing�designedfor�exterior�vinyl.

Shown�is�one�example�of�dried�polish�remover.

The�checklist�for�final�exterior�detailingincludes:

• conditioning�weatherstripping�andother�rubber�and�plastic.

• applying�touch-up�paint�to�nicks,if�the�vehicle�was�refinished�and

there�is�a�sample�bottle�of�theexact�finish�available.

• removing�masking�from�moldingsthat�was�left�on�for�polishing.

• reapplying�trim�that�was�removedfor�polishing.

• using�products�that�will�removecompounds�and�polishes�fromgrain�textures.

When�cleaning�glass,�make�sure�to�clean�the�topedge�of�the�door�glass,�which�is�often�missed.

When�cleaning�glass:

• use�a�glass�cleaner�that�does�notcontain�ammonia�on�appliedwindow�tinting.�Ammonia-basedcleaners�can�damage�appliedtinting.

• make�sure�to�clean�the�top�edgeof�the�door�glass.�This�meanslowering�door�glass�or�opening�thedoor�after�cleaning�the�rest�of�theglass.

• wipe�in�only�one�direction,�eitherjust�horizontally�or�just�vertically.When�wiping�the�other�side�of�theglass,�go�the�opposite�direction.This�makes�it�easy�to�see�what�side

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of�the�glass�a�missed�spot�or�streakis�on.

Wax�is�usually�applied�by�hand,�with�a�circularmotion,�and�then�wiped�off�after�the�surface�glazes.

Waxes�and�sealants:

• form�a�thin�barrier�coating,�andhelp�protect�the�finish�from�UVrays,�acid�rain,�bird�droppings,�andminor�abrasions.

• enhance�finish�gloss.• may�be�considered�a�sacrificial

coating.

Follow�the�paint�maker’s�recommendationfor�when�to�apply�wax�on�refinishes.Some�paint�makers�say�to�wait�up�to120�days.�Other�paint�makers�say�if�thevehicle�can�be�buffed�with�polish,�it�canbe�waxed.

Only�use�waxes�in�a�collision�repairfacility�that�Do�not�contain�silicone.

Some�examples�of�waiting�time�afterrefinishing�before�waxing�include:

• Akzo�Nobel�requires�no�waitingtime�after�refinishing�beforewaxing.�Their�position�is�if�therefinish�can�be�buffed,�it�can�bewaxed.

• BASF�requires�waiting�30days�before�applying�wax�to�arefinished�surface�that�was�force-dried,�and�90�days�before�applyingwax�to�a�refinished�surface�thatwas�air-dried.

• Axalta�requires�waiting�120days�before�applying�wax�to�arefinished�surface.

• PPG�recommends�waiting�60–90�days�before�applying�wax�to�arefinished�surface.

• Sherwin-Williams�requires�a�oneweek�waiting�time.

Final�Check�And�Delivery

During�final�exterior�detailing,�look�under�and�insmall�areas�for�remaining�polish�or�other�buffingmaterials.

When�doing�a�final�exterior�check,�lookfor�excess�polish�or�wax�in�hidden�areassuch�as:

• around�jambs.

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• behind�moldings.• in�emblems.• in�key�holes.• along�the�edges�of�graphics�or

pinstriping.

Remove�the�polish�or�wax�with�a�smallbrush.�A�clay�bar�may�work�on�trim�andmoldings.�A�microfiber�towel�may�alsowork.

Paint�makers�usually�have�care�tip�sheets�availableto�inform�the�vehicle�owner�how�to�take�care�of�anewly�refinished�surface.

The�checklist�can�be�signed�and�given�tothe�customer�along�with�a�care�tip�sheet.A�care�tip�sheet�explains�how�to�take�careof�a�newly�refinished�and�detailed�vehicle.For�example:

• polish�occasionally�to�protectthe�finish,�(waiting�time�is�onlyneeded�before�waxing).�The�moreroutinely�this�is�done,�the�leastamount�of�work�is�involved.

• clean�off�bird�droppings�and�treesap�quickly.�These�are�acidic�andcan�damage�the�finish.

• Do�not�allow�rain�drops�to�dry�onthe�surface.�One�of�the�best�timesto�wash�a�vehicle�is�after�a�light

rain�or�heavy�dew.�Be�aware�thatsome�commercial�car�washes�maydamage�a�fresh�refinish.

• Do�not�wash�the�vehicle�in�directsunlight.

Care�tip�sheets�are�available�for�vehicleowners�from�paint�makers�as�part�of�alifetime�warranty�program.

Detailing�Extras

Vinyl�tops�are�porous�and�may�be�textured,�so�usea�circular�cleaning�motion�to�ensure�all�the�dirt�isremoved.

Cleaning�vinyl�tops�requires�specialprocedures.�Vinyl�top�surfaces:

• are�especially�porous�and�attractdirt�into�the�pores�and�betweenthe�textured�grains.

• may�require�brushing�to�work�thecleaner�into�the�surface.�Brushor�wipe�in�a�circular�pattern,occasionally�reversing�direction.The�brush�should�not�leavescratches�when�rubbed�on�skin.

• must�be�treated�equally�for�theentire�area�to�obtain�a�match.�Ifonly�one�area�is�cleaned,�it�will�beobvious.

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• are�best�cleaned�by�washing�oneside�at�a�time,�followed�by�a�waterrinse.

Plastic�windows�and�other�clear�or�translucentplastic�surfaces�should�be�cleaned�with�materialsdesigned�for�this�purpose.

Convertible�windows�are�usually�clearplastic.�Do�not�use�glass�cleaners�on�clearplastic.�There�are�special�clear�plasticcleaners�and�polishes�available.�Thesematerials:

• remove�fine�scratches�and�swirlsfrom�clear�plastic.

• can�also�be�used�on�tail�lamplenses,�instrument�gauge�lenses,and�other�clear�plastic�surfaces.

A�mild�cleaning�solution�is�all�that's�usually�neededfor�cleaning�wheels.

Using�a�too�aggressive�wheel�cleaner�can�affect�thewheel�finish.

Wheels�are�the�most�often�damaged�parton�a�vehicle�when�detailing.�The�damageusually�results�from�using�too�aggressiveof�a�wheel�cleaner,�or�scratching�thesurface�with�a�wheel�brush.�Whencleaning�wheels:

• use�the�least�aggressive�methodthat�will�do�the�job.�Painted�orclearcoated�wheels�may�onlyrequire�a�mild�all-purpose�cleanersolution.

• wait�until�the�wheel�is�cool.Washing�wheels�when�the�wheelsare�hot�from�driving�affectschemical�reactions�of�the�cleanerbeing�used.�This�may�cause�streaksor�spots�on�the�wheels�that�cannotbe�removed.

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• clean�one�wheel�at�a�time.This�assures�the�cleaner�willnot�dry�on�the�surface,�whichlessens�the�cleaning�action�andmakes�it�difficult�to�rinse�clean.Follow�the�wheel�cleaner�maker’srecommendations�for�the�amountof�time�that�the�cleaner�should�beallowed�to�soak�before�rinsing.

Some�wheels�may�not�come�clean.�Brakedust�or�corrosion�may�be�imbedded�intothe�surface.�If�unrepairable�damage�issuspected,�try�applying�a�small�amount�ofaggressive�buffing�compound�to�a�hiddenspot�on�the�wheel�with�a�cloth.�If�thebrake�dust�or�corrosion�does�not�comeoff,�even�an�acid�cleaner�will�likely�notremove�it.

If�there�is�an�acid�wheel�cleaner�availablein�the�product�line�the�facility�is�using,�useextreme�care�when�using�it.�Acid�wheelcleaners:

• may�contain�hydrofluoric�acid,which�can�damage�a�wheelquickly�and�be�hazardous�to�thetechnician.

• are�designed�to�remove�imbeddedbrake�dust�on�aluminum�or�wirewheels.�The�cleaners�are�notdesigned�for�clearcoated,�painted,or�polished�wheels.

• should�only�be�applied�to�thewheels�and�not�on�any�othersurface.�Also�make�sure�thecleaner�is�only�in�contact�with�thewheels�for�the�time�recommendedby�the�product�maker.

• are�hazardous.�Wear�acid-resistant(neoprene)�gloves,�safety�glasses,and�a�respirator,�as�required�by�theproduct�maker.

Use�a�dressing�designed�for�tires,�but�if�theapplication�is�in�a�collision�repair�facility,�stay�awayfrom�silicone-containing�dressings.

After�washing�the�wheels�and�tires,�applya�tire�dressing�that�is�specifically�made�forexternal�rubber�surfaces.�Tire�dressings:

• give�tires�a�new-like�blackappearance.

• may�also�be�used�on�unpaintedblack�bumper�surfaces.

• should�be�silicone-free�if�used�in�acollision�repair�facility.

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A�degreaser�solution�can�be�applied�to�the�enginecompartment.

If�engine�cleaning�will�be�part�of�thedetailing�steps,�it�should�be�done�firstbecause�the�engine�is�often�the�dirtiestpart�of�the�vehicle.�To�clean�the�engine:

• park�the�vehicle�in�a�wet�baywhere�there�is�a�drain�and�accessto�water.

• check�for�exposed�electricalterminals�that�shouldn’t�get�wet.Plastic�wrap�or�bags�may�be�usedto�wrap�around�the�electricalterminals�and�the�terminal�sideof�computer�modules.�Tape�canbe�used�to�keep�the�plastic�inplace�during�the�cleaning.�Manyterminals�are�watertight�anddon’t�need�protection.�Otherterminals�are�vulnerable�towater�or�degreaser�penetration,especially�those�that�face�up�orto�the�front�where�the�water�willbe�directed.�Water�or�degreasercan�easily�short�out�a�computermodule.�The�saying,�better�safethan�sorry,�really�applies�here.

• apply�a�mild�degreaser�solutionusing�a�spray�bottle�to�the�entireengine�compartment.�Use�a�brushto�work�the�degreaser�where�the

dirt�or�grease�is�built�up.�Mostdegreasers�work�best�if�allowed�tosit�for�a�few�minutes.

A�water�hose�without�a�nozzle�can�beused�to�rinse�off�the�degreaser�solution.Rinse�off�the�engine�from�the�top�down.Allow�the�engine�a�few�minutes�to�dry,then�remove�the�plastic�coverings.�Asilicone-free�dressing�can�be�applied�tocomplete�the�cleaning�process.

Module�Wrap�Up

Topics�discussed�in�this�moduleincluded:

• a�detailer’s�checklist�and�why�achecklist�is�important.

• materials�for�final�exterior�andinterior�detailing.

• removing�a�stain�using�the�pHscale.

• removing�odors.• final�exterior�touch-up�steps.

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