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425 8 CHAPTER Dairy Analog Shortenings 8.1 INTRODUCTION The early stages of the development and introduction of dairy analogs began during World War II when a shortage of dairy products caused a need for simulated foods. Acceptance of the dairy substitutes can be attributed, to a large extent, to rapid advances in fats and oils as well as emulsion technology and advancements in food product formulations. In all three of these areas, technologies have been developed to enable food processors to produce dairy analogs, which not only closely resemble the natural dairy products, but also include many improvements. The advantages these products offer to household and institutional users include (1) ease of handling, (2) extended shelf life, (3) tolerance to temperature abuse and bacterial spoilage, (4) source oil selection to satisfy religious dietary requirements, (5) nutritional values control, and (6) an economic advantage. Two types of dairylike products are produced with fats and oils products other than butterfat. Filled dairy products are those dairy analogs that have been com- pounded or blended with any fat or oil other than milk fat. These dairy analog types include mellorine, lled milk, evaporated milk alternatives, lled cheeses, and mar- garines. Imitation dairy products do not contain any milk product; however, casein and whey, which are milk protein, have been allowed. This group includes coffee whiteners, whipped and aerated toppings, imitation milk, imitation cheese, and dip bases. Dairy analogs originally resembled the original milk products quite closely, but now many of these products have matured to the point that improvements have been made to change or modify some of the products to provide a better shelf life, better functionality for the intended performance, or some other desirable characteristic. Dairy analog products are basically emulsions of specially processed fats and oils products in water with varying quantities of protein, sugar, stabilizer, emulsi- ers, avors, colors, and buffer salts added to give each product the desired physical appearance and eating properties. Dairy analogs can be prepared in a variety of physical forms, ranging from dry mixes to pressurized containers. Regardless of the nal physical form, the quality of the nished product is contingent on the selection and use of proper ingredients: © 2009 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC

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425

8CHAPTER

Dairy Analog Shortenings

8.1 INTRODUCTION

The early stages of the development and introduction of dairy analogs began during World War II when a shortage of dairy products caused a need for simulated foods. Acceptance of the dairy substitutes can be attributed, to a large extent, to rapid advances in fats and oils as well as emulsion technology and advancements in food product formulations. In all three of these areas, technologies have been developed to enable food processors to produce dairy analogs, which not only closely resemble the natural dairy products, but also include many improvements. The advantages these products offer to household and institutional users include (1) ease of handling, (2) extended shelf life, (3) tolerance to temperature abuse and bacterial spoilage, (4) source oil selection to satisfy religious dietary requirements, (5) nutritional values control, and (6) an economic advantage.

Two types of dairylike products are produced with fats and oils products other than butterfat. Filled dairy products are those dairy analogs that have been com-pounded or blended with any fat or oil other than milk fat. These dairy analog types include mellorine, filled milk, evaporated milk alternatives, filled cheeses, and mar-garines. Imitation dairy products do not contain any milk product; however, casein and whey, which are milk protein, have been allowed. This group includes coffee whiteners, whipped and aerated toppings, imitation milk, imitation cheese, and dip bases. Dairy analogs originally resembled the original milk products quite closely, but now many of these products have matured to the point that improvements have been made to change or modify some of the products to provide a better shelf life, better functionality for the intended performance, or some other desirable characteristic.

Dairy analog products are basically emulsions of specially processed fats and oils products in water with varying quantities of protein, sugar, stabilizer, emulsi-fiers, flavors, colors, and buffer salts added to give each product the desired physical appearance and eating properties. Dairy analogs can be prepared in a variety of physical forms, ranging from dry mixes to pressurized containers. Regardless of the final physical form, the quality of the finished product is contingent on the selection and use of proper ingredients:

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426 FATS AND OILS: FORMULATING AND PROCESSING FOR APPLICATIONS

Dairy analog shortening: Fat is the most important ingredient used in dairylike products. It establishes the eating properties, physical appearance, and stability of the finished product. A shortening that performs well in one dairy analog appli-cation may be unsatisfactory for another; therefore, it is necessary to match the performance characteristics of the shortening to the finished product requirements. The various shortening types utilized for nondairy applications are identified in Table 8.1 and characterized by melting point, solids fat index (SFI), and fatty acid composition.Protein: The principal function of protein in dairylike products is to contribute to the stability, body, and viscosity of the finished product. Protein may also serve as an agent to trap gases in whipped toppings or as a dispersing agent or protective colloid in emulsions. The protein used may come from a number of sources, such as liquid skimmed milk, nonfat milk solids, caseinates, gelatin, whey, or egg or soy protein. Whichever is selected, emphasis must be placed on the use of a bland, flavorless protein that will not detract from the flavor of the finished product.Sugars or carbohydrates: Sugar provides sweetness and body, aids in solubility, and affects the viscosity or density of the finished product. Available sources are corn syrup, corn syrup solids, dextrose, cane, beet sugars, etc.Stabilizers: Stabilizers increase the body of the emulsion and help prevent synere-sis or water separation. In many products, a combination of stabilizers may be required to achieve the stability required.Emulsifiers: The surfactant or surfactant system for each product can vary with the individual demands of the finished product and each manufacturer’s processes.Buffer salts: Buffers are added to certain dairylike products to maintain the desired pH to minimize body variations and to improve the colloidal properties of the protein employed.Flavors: Numerous natural and artificial flavors are available for use in these dairy-like systems. The flavor experienced with a fresh product is not necessarily the flavor that the product will have after the crystal habits of the fats and oils have stabilized.

8.2 NONDAIRY CREAMER

Nondairy creamers are not imitation cream. They are formulated systems similar in functionality to the natural dairy product, with the advantages of longer shelf life, convenient product forms, and uniform quality and performance. Generally, a non-dairy creamer or base may be defined as a stabilized fat source, a creaming agent, or cream substitute. Nondairy creamers combine five basic ingredients (shortening, protein, carbohydrates, stabilizers, and emulsifiers) with water to form a stable prod-uct with a delicate flavor that disperses quickly in coffee without feathering or oiling off. A good whitener effectively approximates the appearance, quality, and taste of coffee cream.

Nondairy creamers are marketed in three different physical forms:

1. Liquid coffee whiteners are processed, transported, and marketed in the liquid state. This ready-to-use product form is utilized primarily in homes and restaurants and usually has a limited shelf life, slightly better than dairy creamers. Acceptable

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427Table 8.1 Dairy Analog Potential Shortening Products

Source Oil Milk Fat Coconut Oil Soybean OilPalm Kernel & Cottonseed Oil Soybean & Cottonseed Oil Soybean Oil

Selectively Hydrogenated Hydrogenated Specially Liquid

Processing Butter RBD Hydrogenated Hydrogenated & Interesteri�ed & Fractionated Hydrogenated Shortening

Mettler dropping point °C 35.0 24.4 33.3 43.3 35.0 41.1 36.1 38.9 44.4 37.2 38.5 31.1 °F 95.0 76.0 92.0 110.0 95.0 106.0 97.0 102.0 112.0 99.0 102.0 88.0Solids fat index 10.0°C/50°F 33.0 59.0 57.0 63.0 41.0 57.0 64.0 68.0 69.0 72.0 58.0 3.5 21.1°C/70°F 14.0 29.0 33.0 41.0 24.0 45.0 55.0 56.0 58.0 63.0 43.0 2.5 26.7°C/80°F 10.0 — 8.0 16.0 16.0 40.0 38.0 40.0 50.0 55.0 34.0 2.5 33.3°C/92°F 3.0 — 3.0 7.0 3.0 20.0 8.0 12.0 27.0 25.0 12.0 2.0 40.0°C/104°F — — — 4.0 — 4.0 — 4.0 14.0 5.0 1.0 1.5Iodine value 31.5 9.0 1.0 >1 74.0 67.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 59.0 75.0 107.0Fatty acid composition, % C-4:0 Butyric 3.6 — — — — — — — — — — — C-6:0 Caproic 2.2 0.5 0.5 0.6 — — — — — — — — C-8:0 Caprylic 1.2 7.1 9.5 9.3 — — 2.0 2.0 2.0 — — — C-10:0 Capric 2.5 6.0 6.5 6.4 — — 3.0 3.0 3.0 — — — C-12:0 Lauric 2.9 47.1 46.0 46.8 — — 46.0 48.0 40.0 0.5 — — C-14:0 Myristic 10.8 18.5 16.9 16.4 — — 17.0 16.0 14.0 0.6 0.3 — C-14:1 Myristoleic 0.8 — — — — — — — — — — — C-15:0 Pentadelandic 2.1 — — — — — — — — — — — C-16:0 Palmitic 26.9 9.1 8.5 8.5 10.8 10.8 9.0 8.0 12.0 16.4 12.5 10.6 C-16:1 Palmitoleic 2.0 — — — — — — — — 0.4 0.4 — C-17:0 Margaric 0.7 — — — — — — — — 0.3 — — C-18:0 Stearic 12.1 2.8 10.4 11.2 8.2 13.2 21.0 20.0 27.0 12.2 10.8 6.5 C-18:1 Oleict 28.5 6.8 1.2 1.0 74.0 74.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 67.4 74.8 44.5 C-18:2 Linoleict 3.2 1.9 0.2 — 6.0 2.0 — — — 1.4 0.3 36.5 C-18:3 Linolenict 0.4 0.1 — — — — — — — 0.3 — 2.0 C-20:0 Arachidic — 0.1 — — — — — — — 0.4 0.5 — C-20:1 Gadoleic 0.1 — — — — — — — — — — — C-22-0 Behenic — — — — — — — — — 0.3 0.4 —trans fatty acids, % 7.2tp — nil nil 44.7 39.5 nil nil nil 38.0e 55.0e 15.9

Notes: t = trans included, tp = typical, e = estimated.

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liquid coffee whiteners must have an unusually high degree of emulsion stability to remain in a uniform emulsion on standing after preparation and prior to sale to prevent oiling-off or feathering when added to coffee. It must also withstand freeze–thaw cycles without separating and maintain a viscosity simulating the nat-ural dairy product. A heavy-bodied product will not disperse in coffee, just as a thin or separated product that oils off is not acceptable. Whitening ability, which is con-trolled by the total amount of solids present and the fineness of the dispersed phase, must be uniform. Coffee whiteners must also maintain a bland flavor and be odor free for the life of the product. The concentration of fat can vary from 5 to 18% for liquid coffee whiteners. A shortening or fat with a relatively low melting point and a narrow plastic range indicated by a steep SFI profile are desirable for the liquid creamers. Higher melting points may impart a greasy mouth feel to fluid whiten-ers. Liquid fats interfere with dispersibility because of absorption into the protein and coalescence. The shortenings most often utilized by the liquid whiteners are 76 and 92°F coconut oil, selectively hydrogenated soybean oil with a 95°F melting point, and liquid opaque shortening. Coconut has a steep SFI and sharp melting point for good mouth feel and eating characteristics, but can develop soapy flavors due to hydrolysis of the lauric fatty acid content, especially with the high moisture content of the liquid whiteners. The 74-iodine value (IV) selectively hydrogenated soybean oil product has a melting point and SFI profile very similar to butterfat. Liquid shortenings have found acceptance because of the ease of handling and the high polyunsaturated level in the finished coffee whitener. Liquid shortenings can be trans fatty acid free when formulated with nonhydrogenated base oils.

2. Frozen liquid coffee whiteners are processed, frozen, and shipped to the retail markets in a frozen state with directions for defrosting before use. The character-istics and processing techniques for this type of whitener are similar to the liquid-type coffee whitener, but, because this product is frozen and maintained in the frozen state prior to use, a shorter shelf life after thawing can be tolerated, but the product must have good freeze–thaw stability to prevent separation when the prod-uct is thawed for use. Normally, the same shortenings are utilized for frozen coffee whiteners as the regular liquid product.

3. Spray-dried nondairy creamers are processed as a free-flowing dry powder. During processing of the nondairy powders, the fat is coated with emulsifier, allowing it to mix with the protein slurry. Homogenization forms globules, which are tiny, stabilized droplets of fat. An emulsified, homogenized fat exhibits a high degree of whitening in coffee. The carbohydrates and the other ingredients coat the outside of the globules. This slurry is sprayed in a fine mist into the hot dryer chamber. This causes the water to flash off, and the resulting powder falls to the bottom of the dryer. The nondairy powders must have a superior oxidative stability to withstand the processing abuse and to provide the shelf-life stability required, which is one of the main advantages of their use, along with room-temperature storage (the other nondairy products and natural dairy cream require refrigeration). Additionally, the dry product must exhibit good flow properties, that is, clumping and caking must be avoided. Although the principal use for the nondairy powders is for whitening coffee, a number of other uses have emerged where the powders can replace dairy products or where other new applications have been developed. At least five different types of the spray-dried nondairy creamers are produced:

a. Coffee whiteners: These retail marketed products, which have fat contents between 16 and 40% (dry basis), are specifically processed, low-density

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powders that provide desirable packaging properties, as well as “sink and dis-persion” characteristics in coffee. The lower fat levels are utilized in light or low-fat coffee whiteners to reduce the calories.

b. Aerated whiteners: Specially processed dry powders with encapsulated air within the nondairy creamer to produce a cappuccino effect when added to regular coffee.

c. Reconstituted creamers: These are dry powders designed to be reconstituted, pasteurized, homogenized, and packaged for restaurant or retail marketing as liquid products for use in dairy-type applications.

d. Vending creamers: These dry powders have fat contents of around 35% and a higher density than regular coffee whiteners.

e. Ingredient bases: These dry powders, with relatively high densities (typically 50% fat), are produced as ingredients or bases for liquid beverages, puddings, gravy mixes, whipped toppings, dips, etc.

The lipid systems for coffee whiteners have been tailored to meet the perfor-mance requirements of the product type into which they are formulated, whether they are liquid, frozen-liquid, or the various spray-dried products. Nondairy pow-dered creamers usually require higher melting-point shortenings. Lower melting-point fats incorporated into spray-dried whiteners may cause the powders to lump at high temperatures and may disperse poorly in hot coffee. Generally, the short-ening requirements for nondairy coffee creamer powders have been composed of hydrogenated coconut oil with a 110°F (43.3°C) melting point, interesterified and hydrogenated palm kernel oil with a 112°F (44.4°C) melting point, or a selectively hydrogenated soybean oil with a 106°F (41.1°C) melting point. The spray-dried cof-fee whiteners usually require higher melting fats for extended shelf life, anticlump-ing characteristics, good dispersion in hot liquids, and whitening.

Emulsifiers are employed in all three nondairy creamers to combine immiscible fat and water, help maintain a stable emulsion, and create the proper amount of fat agglomeration in order to achieve the major objective — lightening the color of coffee. A number of different emulsifier systems can be formulated for the non-dairy powders, including mono- and diglycerides, polysorbate 60 and 80, glyceryl-lacto esters, lecithin, propylene glycol monoester (PGME), sodium stearoyl lactylate (SSL), and others depending on the functionality desired and preferences of the pro-cessor. In almost all cases, the emulsifier requirements are added independently of the shortening requirement.

8.3 WHIPPED TOPPING

Whipping cream stability problems brought about the development of nondairy whipped toppings. Whipped toppings have become popular for both commercial and consumer use as toppings on puddings, sodas, cakes, ice cream, fruit, and pastries, in addition to extensive use as cream pie bases. Nondairy whipped toppings are more functional than whipping cream because manufacturers can use a more desirable fat characterized by a specific SFI profile with complementary emulsifier systems.

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Whipped toppings are marketed in a variety of forms, all of which have similar for-mulation characteristics:

Liquid whipped topping: This basic topping is an oil-in-water emulsion containing fat, protein, sugar, stabilizer, and emulsifier and which requires mechanical whipping to produce a topping with the desired overrun and dryness. It is usually packaged in PurePak® containers for retail, foodservice, and food processor applications.Topping concentrate: This oil-in-water emulsion is similar to the liquid whipped topping but contains less water. Prior to use, milk, skim milk, cream, juice, or water is added, and the mix is agitated to produce the desired overrun and dryness. This is a popular form for preparation of bakery cream pie fillings and cake toppings.Aerosol topping: This oil-in-water emulsion is similar to a liquid topping, but is packaged in a pressurized container. The topping is automatically whipped as it passes through the aerosol spray nozzle. This package and application is popular for the retail and foodservice markets.Powdered toppings: This oil-in-water emulsion, which is spray dried to contain a minimum of water, is one of the most difficult toppings to formulate and man-ufacture. When reconstituted with milk, skim milk, or water, it is mechanically whipped to attain the desired stiffness and overrun. The powdered topping form offers a longer shelf life than either the liquid or the aerosol toppings, and the end product ranks high in consumer appeal.Frozen ready-to-use topping: This complete product is marketed in retail gro-cery stores in plastic, recloseable containers in convenient sizes for household con-sumers. Marketing this product in the frozen state substantially improves the shelf life of the product. The use life in the home refrigerator after thawing is probably three to six weeks. Normally, the ready-to-use toppings are formulated with sodium caseinate because milk solids do not lend themselves to freezing. The ready-to-use toppings are processed like the other toppings, except that after pasteurization and homogenization the finished topping mix is sent through a continuous whip-ping machine and brought to its optimum specific gravity. It is then poured into plastic containers and rapidly frozen, usually with blast freezers set below –20°F (–28.9°C).

Preparation of a satisfactory whipped topping is more complex than most dairy analogs. Proper balance of the individual ingredients for the finished aerated topping is necessary to produce an appealing and commercially desirable whipped topping. The common ranges of basic ingredients as a percentage of the finished topping are generally in the ranges shown in Table 8.2.1 Most of the nondairy toppings are made by combining the ingredients and pasteurizing the mixture. The mix is then homog-enized and cooled to 40°F (4.4°C) or lower before packaging. The finished mixes usually require 18 to 24 hours of tempering or aging before satisfactory whipping performance can be expected.

Selection of the optimum emulsifier system for a whipped topping is quite impor-tant, as overrun, dryness, stiffness, mix stability, topping stability, and (to a degree) body and texture depend on it. The emulsifier concentration may vary from 0.4 to 1.0% of the total weight of the topping, according to the emulsifier system selected. The choice of emulsifier system depends on the ultimate form of whipped topping:

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liquid, frozen-liquid, or dry powder. Soft mono- and diglycerides and glyceryl-lacto esters or PGMEs are usually used in dried and liquid toppings. In fluid whipped top-pings, whipping time can usually be reduced by adding more soft monoglyceride or polysorbates to the formula; however, higher emulsifier levels usually increase the viscosity of the finished whipped topping. Polysorbates or hard mono- and diglycer-ides are employed to produce toppings that have freeze–thaw stability. Adding a hard mono- and diglyceride usually lowers the specific gravity of the whipped topping and increases the whipping time required.

Experience has indicated that whipped toppings should contain 25 to 35% fat to achieve whipping and body characteristics equivalent to natural cream. Lower fat contents may be used with the addition of high sugar, stabilizer, and emulsifier levels to provide body. However, a topping containing less than 25% fat is generally characterized by a slack body with a poor mouth feel, stability, and texture. Most whipped toppings are formulated with fats that have narrow plastic ranges reflected by a steep SFI slope. The shortening used must have sufficient fat solids at whip-ping temperature to give rigidity to the whipped product with a melting point in the 95 to 102°F (35 to 38.9°C) target range for rapid and complete getaway in the mouth. Higher melting products provide significantly better body and stand-up sta-bility, but leave a distinct greasy and waxy mouth feel and aftertaste. Typically, the type of shortenings chosen for whipped topping are characteristic of those products (outlined in Table 8.1) with melting points from 95 to 102°F (35 to 38.9°C). These products have some nutritional deficiencies, such as high trans fatty acids for the hydrogenated soybean and soybean and cottonseed oil blends and high saturated fatty acids for the lauric oil products. However, the small serving size of the finished whipped topping, typically 2 teaspoons or 9 grams, limits the effect of either trans or saturated fatty acids.

8.4 CHEESE ANALOG

Cheese analogs have replaced cheese in a variety of applications, primarily because of economic and improved performance for certain applications. Natural

Table 8.2 Whipped Topping Basic Ingredient Range

Ingredient Range, % Low High

Shortening 25.0 35.0

Protein 1.0 6.0

Sucrose 6.0 12.0

Corn syrup solids 2.0 5.0

Stabilizers 0.1 0.8

Emulsifiers 0.4 1.0

Salts 0.025 0.15

Water 46.0 64.0

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cheese is basically made up of fat (24%), protein (20%), water (46%), minerals, and a small amount of carbohydrate, flavored by any of a number of processes and com-bined to provide the flavor and texture properties. A nondairy replacement involves the use of a fat source other than butter, a protein other than milk solids, and the com-pounding of a flavor system that duplicates as much as possible the natural cheese counterpart. An imitation or substitute cheese product must duplicate the perfor-mance and functionality of the original cheese product more uniformly. Functional characteristics, such as firmness, slicing properties, melting properties, shredding, etc., are all controllable through formulation and processing conditions and, once attained, can be reproduced with uniformity. The major uses developed for cheese analogs have been pizza, salads, frozen entrees, sandwiches, frozen appetizers, dips, spreads, sauces, and snacks.

Replacement of butterfat with a shortening is the important first step in duplica-tion of a dairy product. Cheese analogs require a fat with a melting point close to body temperature, a relatively steep SFI slope, good oxidative stability, and a bland flavor. A desirable SFI slope provides both good eating quality and solid fats at the temperature required for slicing and shredding, but allows the product to melt at elevated temperatures without oiling out. The fatty acid composition of the dairy analog shortening utilized is also important. Short-chain fatty acids from lauric oils can interfere with the flavor development in some cheese varieties and hydrolyze in others, due to the high moisture content, to produce soapy flavors.

Deviation from butterfat properties is necessary for some dairy analog prod-ucts, but, for imitation cheese products, a shortening with similar properties has performed most satisfactorily. Selectively hydrogenated domestic oils, such as the 74-IV product in Table 8.1 have performed more than adequately for cheese analogs. These shortening types have relatively steep SFI slopes and melting points like but-terfat, do not contain lauric fatty acids, have good oxidative stability as indicated by the low polyunsaturate level, and have bland flavors. Unfortunately, this product has a high trans fatty acid content, which may necessitate reformulation with interesteri-fied or fractionated oil blends.

8.5 FROZEN DESSERT OR MELLORINE

Frozen dessert, or imitation ice cream, was probably the first dairy product analog produced after margarine. The name mellorine was adopted by several states as the generic name for frozen desserts made with fats other than butterfat. Unlike marga-rine, the dairy industry controlled mellorine by producing it in their ice cream plants and distributing it as a line extension. Mellorine is a filled milk product because it is produced with a fat source other than milk fat, but still contains milk solids contrib-uted by nonfat milk solids or skim milk. It is generally made by the same process as used for ice cream and is available in two basic forms: (1) soft-serve and (2) hard-ened. Soft-serve was introduced to the American public through dairy stands, where it is dispensed directly from batch freezers. Complete soft-serve mixes are frozen in the batch freezer and dispensed as the customer watches into cones, sundaes,

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milk shakes, etc. Hardened mellorine products are packaged in the traditional pints, quarts, gallons, and bricks or made up into novelty items, such as coated bars, cups, etc., and quick frozen for distribution through the freezer sections of retail stores.

Two factors that contribute heavily to mellorine quality are fat content and over-run. The fat content for hardened mellorine products has varied from a low of 4% to over 16%. Generally, higher fat levels are rated better quality, with 10% fat usually considered the minimum for good-quality hardened product. Hardened mellorine with a lower overrun has also been rated as the preferred product. Soft-serve prod-ucts are judged differently. A 6 to 8% fat level with a high overrun is considered a quality soft-serve mellorine product.

The mixing and manufacture of frozen desserts is handled in much the same manner as ice cream regarding pasteurization, homogenizing, freezing, etc. Nonfat milk solids or condensed skim milk can be used as the protein source, and hydroge-nated vegetable oil or an animal fat can be substituted for the butterfat. A satisfactory texture cannot be achieved using liquid vegetable oils, but processed fats have been tailored for frozen dessert applications. Shortenings with a melting point close to body temperature and a steep SFI slope were developed to solve churn-out problems with soft-serve mellorine products. Churn-out is a freckling, or graining-out, of the fat, which results in a gritty mouth feel in the product. Churn-out occurs when the fat separates from the mix in lumps, which are difficult or impossible to re-emul-sify into a smooth mixture. A coating of fat over the surface of the freezing unit is also an indication of churn-out. The selectively hydrogenated soybean oil shorten-ing with a 95°F (35°C) melting point identified in Table 8.1 has performed well for soft-serve products. It can also be used for hardened products, but better results are obtained with the slightly firmer 106°F (41.1°C) selectively hydrogenated shortening. For hardened frozen desserts, the meltdown, chewiness, dryness, and texture are improved by the higher SFI contents and melting point; however, these same quali-ties are detrimental for soft-serve products as they promote churn-out.

Both the emulsifiers utilized and the shortening composition can affect the stabil-ity of the mellorine mix regarding churn-out. Hard mono- and diglycerides and/or polysorbate-type emulsifiers are used in mellorine and ice cream. The hard mono- and diglyceride emulsifiers help produce a fine air cell structure and improved whipping performance. Polysorbate 80 or polyglycerol 8-1-0 ester provides optimum dryness and a smooth product with good stand-up qualities as required for packaged product.

8.6 SOUR CREAM ANALOG AND DIP BASES

Imitation sour creams are used extensively for party dips, salad dressing, and potato toppings; as sauce enrichments; in cold soups; and for many other applica-tions. These dairy analogs can be produced with lower fat levels, are more resistant to wheying off, have a longer shelf life, and are usually lower priced than the natural dairy product. Most processors use a direct acidulation process with edible organic acids, rather than the conventional sour cream process of injecting a bacterial culture into the pasteurized product. In most cases, analog sour creams are produced with

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14 to 18% fat with nonfat milk solids or sodium caseinate, stabilizers, sugars, emul-sifiers, flavoring, and an acid media. Processing includes mixing, pasteurizing, and homogenizing the product before packaging. Sour cream analogs are fluid as filled and require 10 to 12 hours of tempering at refrigerated temperatures for the fat to crystallize while the protein and stabilizers thicken the product to use consistency.

A number of different fat compositions have been utilized for imitation sour creams and dip bases. Initially, coconut oil — refined, bleached, and deodorized (RBD) with a 76°F (24.4°C) melt or hardened to 92°F (33.3°F) melt — was preferred for the fast getaway provided by tropical oils high in lauric fatty acids. Selectively hydrogenated cottonseed or soybean oils with a 95°F (35°C) melt coupled with a steep SFI slope provide good mouth feel and product stability without the possibility of soapy flavor development caused by hydrolysis. Specially hydrogenated or hydro-genated and fractionated domestic oil blends can provide a more stable consistency over selective hydrogenated soybean oil products and retain mouth-feel quality even though the melting point is slightly higher.

8.7 FLUID MILK ANALOGS

Fluid milk analogs can be produced as either filled or imitation products. The formulation of filled milk products is relatively simple. Whole milk is replaced with skim milk or buttermilk that has been homogenized with a fat source other than but-terfat. Filled milk contains about 3.5% fat and requires about 3% -monoglyceride (fat basis) for emulsification. The fat component should have a melting point below body temperature to avoid a greasy mouth feel.2 Three of the shortenings outlined in Table 8.1 would be likely candidates for fluid filled milk fat: 76°F (24.4°C) coco-nut oil, 95°F (35°C) melt selectively hydrogenated soybean oil, and opaque liquid shortening. The liquid shortening with a brush-hydrogenated basestock offers a high polyunsaturate-to-saturate level compared to the other fat products; however, it has a higher trans-isomer level than butterfat and coconut oil. A trans free liquid shorten-ing could be formulated with a natural or genetically modified liquid oil to replace this basestock. Table 8.3 compares the fat nutritional values for whole fat milk con-taining butterfat with three vegetable fat alternatives for fluid milk analogs.

Imitation fluid milk products should not contain any dairy products, except casein and whey proteins, but should maintain the same nutritional level as dairy fluid milk products. Sodium caseinate and whey have typically replaced milk solids in most imitation fluid milk products.3 The same shortening candidates apply to imitation as with the fluid filled milk products.

8.8 SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK ANALOGS

Confectioners have used a considerable amount of sweetened condensed milk for caramels, candy centers, fudges, nougats, kisses, toffees, and similar confections. Sweetened condensed milk is produced from pasteurized and homogenized fluid

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milk, which is first condensed with a vacuum. Sugar is then added before the milk is condensed further to a ratio of three solids to one liquid. Sweetened condensed milk contains approximately 8.5% butterfat, 21.5% nonfat milk solids, 42% sugar, and 28% water. Sweetened condensed filled milk analogs can be produced by substi-tuting condensed skim milk for condensed whole milk and adding a shortening and emulsifier for the fat content. This product is then condensed with a vacuum at 95 to 110°F (35 to 43.3°C) to develop the cooked or caramelized milk flavor desired for the confectionery products. Suitable shortening products shown in Table 8.1 for this application include all those with melting points centered from 95 to 102°F (35 to 38.9°C). The important fat-source characteristics are a relatively sharp melting point, a bland flavor, and good oxidative stability to prevent off-flavor development during the milk processing, production of the confection product, and its shelf life.

Production of an imitation sweetened condensed milk product requires a more extensive composition of ingredients to replace the nonfat milk solids, including protein, lactose, and minerals. Caseinates, whey, starches, and other protein sources have been used to formulate the imitation products. The shortening requirements have been satisfied with essentially the same products as used with the sweetened condensed filled milk analogs.

Table 8.3 Effect of Various Fat Products Upon the Nutritional Data for Fluid Milk Analogs

Selectively

Hydrogenated Liquid

Fat Source Butterfat Coconut Oil Soybean Oil Shortening

Fatty Acids, %

Saturated 65.0 9.1 19.0 17.1

Trans 7.2a nil ~45.0* ~16.0*

Polyunsaturated 3.6t 2.0 — 24.5*

Monounsaturated 31.4t 6.8 35.0* 43.5*

Nutritional Facts Panel Values:

Serving Size 1 cup 1 cup 1 cup 1 cup

Calories 150 150 150 150

Calories From Fat 70 70 70 70

Total Fat 8.0 grams 8.0 grams 8.0 grams 8.0 grams

Saturated fatty acids 5.0 grams 7.0 grams 1.5 grams 1.5 grams

Trans fatty acids 0.5 grams 0 grams 4.0 grams 1.5 grams

Polyunsaturated fatty acids 0 grams 0 grams 0 grams 2.0 grams

Monounsaturated fatty acids 2.0 grams 0.5 grams 3.0 grams 3.5 grams

Cholesterol 35 mg 0 mg 0 mg 0 mg

Notes: a = average; ~ = approximate; * = calculated; t = including trans; mg = milligrams.

© 2009 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC

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436 FATS AND OILS: FORMULATING AND PROCESSING FOR APPLICATIONS

REFERENCES

1. Anon., Guidelines to the Formulation of Whipped Toppings, Product Information Bulletin, Atlas Chemical Industries, Inc., Wilmington, DE, 1968, pp. 1–5.

2. Weiss, T.J., Imitation dairy products, in Food Oils and Their Uses, 2nd ed., AVI Publishing, Westport, CT, 1983, p. 295.

3. Henderson, J.L., Special milk products including imitations, in The Fluid-Milk Industry, AVI Publishing, Westport, CT, 1971, p. 455.

© 2009 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC