Davis-Bundrage & Kim

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Predicting Purchases of Eco-BeautyProducts: A Qualitative Meta-Analysis

Melodie Ray [email protected]

Soyoung [email protected]

AbstractThe natural and organic personal care product industry represents a growing

opportunity to expand a niche market to mainstream. This study addressed thelimited linkage of natural and organic cosmetics to dress of the body and use ofcosmetics from a social viewpoint and not merely from an environmental andhealth benefit standpoint. Researching all vantage points is necessary in orderto complete the customer profiling for natural cosmetics and for businesses tounderstand how to educate and expand the existing client base. This papersynthesizes via a qualitative meta-analysis methodology existing research onconsumer behavior towards natural and organic cosmetic products and adds anew perspective on marketing natural cosmetic brands by suggesting that thestudy of these products be performed in an inclusive manner of cosmetic usagefrom social and attribute-based desires in addition to product health andenvironmental benefits. Further research and recommendations to retailers onhow marketing messages can be strategically changed to stress user benefitsfrom a social, fashion and lifestyle perspective are suggested and provided.

Keywords: eco-beauty, organic personal care products, green marketing, meta-analysis

Relevance to Marketing Practitioners : The study is relevant to marketers inorder to understand consumer behavior concerning eco-beauty products.Marketing natural cosmetics represents both opportunities and challenges forbusinesses interested in expanding to the mainstream market by strategicallyadjusting marketing messages to achieve mainstream acceptance of eco-beautyproducts.


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196 Proceedings of the Atlantic Marketing Association

Introduction

Natural and organic cosmetics and personal care products are categoricallyplaced within ecological products (Rajagopal, 2007) and therefore are included asproducts studied for the purpose of understanding sustainable consumption.Marketing ecological products or products that are environmentally sound iscommonly known as green marketing (Chen & Chai, 2010). Uniquely differentfrom household products or food products, natural and organic cosmetics are notonly ecological products but also fashion products used methodologically by theconsumer to participate in altering image, image maintenance, promotion of selfesteem, and trendsetting.

Since cosmetics are included in the definition of dress and have been viewedas an acceptable part of fashion since the 1920s (Tortora & Eubank, 2010),natural and organic cosmetics, otherwise known as eco-beauty products, can beregarded as equivalent to eco-fashion when used to solve a need for fashion and

to satisfy consumer aesthetic desires. Niinimaki (2010) stated that in order foreco-clothes to expand beyond a niche market they must reflect the broad scope ofconsumers lifestyles, suggesting combining environmental aspects with gooddesign and fashion to produce a desirable product. Good design in cosmetics caninclude attributes such as: formulation, color, coverage, effectiveness, texture,applicability and even fashionable product packaging. Marketing naturalcosmetics, a unique attribute and benefit based product, represents both greatopportunities and challenges for businesses entering this niche market andinterested in expanding to the mainstream market.

As people have become more concerned with the environment, health, and

product ingredients, interest in natural and organic cosmetics has grown.Studies have documented that as consumers are educated and they becomeaware of the harmful effects of synthetic cosmetics on prolonged usage thedemand for natural or organic products increases (Rajagopal, 2007). However,whereas general green products, organic foods and eco-apparel have been widelydiscussed in the literature, studies on natural and organic personal careproducts are few in number and inconclusive as to factors that influencepurchase intention and willingness to pay higher prices. Kim and Chung (2011)observed that most existing research dealt with marketing strategies ratherthan consumer behavior but in order to develop effective marketing strategies anin-depth understanding of the consumer would be needed. There has also beenvery limited linkage of the study of natural and organic cosmetics to dress of thebody and little research has examined factors that influence the use of cosmeticsfrom a social viewpoint and not merely from an environmental and healthbenefit standpoint. All vantage points are necessary to research in order tocomplete the customer profiling for natural cosmetics and for businesses tounderstand how to educate and expand the existing client base. Therefore, thispaper not only synthesizes existing research on consumer behavior but expands


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the proposed theoretical basis of consumer behavior study towards natural andorganic cosmetics and suggests marketing strategies for the resulting expandedconsumer base.

Studies designed to determine factors that influence attitude, purchasebehavior and willingness to pay have emerged in various areas (cosmetics,apparel, general green buying) and have utilized various theories and modelsincluding: theory of reasoned behavior, theory of planned behavior, fashionadoption theory, consumer socialization theory, theory of reflectivemodernization, and consumer knowledge management (e.g. Chan & Lau, 2001;Dimitrova, Kaneva, & Gallucci, 2009; Gam, 2011; Kim & Chung, 2011;Niinimaki, 2010; Yan & Xu, 2010). Although somewhat different in approach,these studies have a similar basis of underlying factors that are significant ininfluencing attitudes, behaviors and willingness to pay for natural and organicproducts. The common significant factors are combined in this study to presenta synthesized model of significant influential factors based on the existing

research that can be used in future research studies and presented inrecommendation statements that can inform marketers and promote theexpansion of the natural and organic cosmetic niche market towards amainstream market. Therefore, the goal of this study is to conduct a qualitativemeta-analysis of the findings of existing studies and draw conclusions about thefactors that significantly influence eco-apparel, green buying, and naturalcosmetics. In so doing, this study adds a new perspective on marketing naturalcosmetic brands by suggesting that the study of these products be performed inan inclusive manner of cosmetic usage from social and attribute-based desires inaddition to product health and environmental benefits.

Background

Personal care products represent the third highest sales in the U.S. non-foodorganic segment following supplements and fibers for apparel, according to theOrganic Trade Association 2011 Organic Industry Survey. The Organic Monitorin a 2011 report predicted global sales of natural and organic cosmetics to reach$9 billion by the end of 2011 and $14 billion by 2015 (Gallon, 2011). Kline Inc.reports U.S. sales of natural and organic cosmetic products grew to $3.8 billionin 2010 and the natural beauty market is expected to grow to $6.6 billion by2015 (as cited by tccscc.org, 2011). The same report also shows that the U.S.market is expected to experience high double-digit growth from 2012 to 2015.These statistics provide evidence that an increase in the research of consumerbehavior towards natural cosmetics is needed and will aid in effectivelymarketing natural and organic personal care products.

Despite the importance of the natural and organic cosmetics market, onlysix articles were found at the time of this study that examined consumerbehaviors in this market, but many studies on eco-apparel, organic food and


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green products in general have been completed. The researchers chose toinclude eco-apparel and general green products in this study to include a highernumber of articles to be examined and also to compare studies of natural andorganic products with studies of other green products. More specifically, theresearchers performed a qualitative meta-analysis on these studies to present a

synthesized model of significant findings amongst all the previous studies. Thispaper also explores the business implications sections of each study andcombines those recommendations with factors not considered in the research ofnatural and organic cosmetics. Subsequently, this study bridges the gapbetween previous studies of natural cosmetics and eco-apparel by identifyingadditional factors from fashion theory, social identity and marketing that couldbe beneficial in expanding the organic cosmetics market and offer opportunitiesfor future research.

The following few studies (Dickson, 2000; Dimitrova et al., 2009; Gam, 2011;Kim & Chung, 2011; Kim & Seock, 2009; Niinimaki, 2010; Yan & Xu, 2010)

sought to explain factors that influence attitude, intention to buy andwillingness to pay more for green product categories inclusive of yet beyond thescope of environmentalism and green marketing and have therefore begun theconversation of studying green products from a social aspect and mainstreammarketing point of view. Each of the proceeding authors incorporated one of thefollowing variables or factors in their study: consumer knowledge, productattributes, social factors, and consumer identity or body/fashion theory. Thefollowing sections provide an overview of the literature on attitude, purchaseintention, and willingness to pay more for natural and organic cosmetics andeco-apparel to relate cosmetic use as a form of dress.

Natural and Organic CosmeticsThe literature review included six studies on natural or organic cosmetics andpersonal care products (Dimitrova et al., 2009; Johri & Sahasakmontri, 1998;Kim & Chung, 2011; Kim & Seock, 2009; Makarychev, Kaufmann, Tsangari, &Temperley, 2011; Rajagopal, 2007). The Johri (1998) article is retained in thestudy because of its significance as a cosmetics paper although it was publishedslightly prior to the year 2000. The goal of the studies ranged from researchingmarketing strategies to consumer knowledge to consumer behavior. Amongst thesignificant findings from the above studies that focused on consumer behaviorwas 1) the level of knowledge of consumers influences buying behavior, and 2)

environmental consciousness, appearance consciousness, product attributes, andlevel of involvement were all influencers on purchase intention or behavior. Themain attributes found to be significant to consumers while buying greencosmetics from a focus group discussion in the study by Johri (1998) includedproduct color, packaging, outlet atmosphere, brand image, opportunity to pre-test, safe for skin, product performance, ingredients, fragrance, not tested onanimals and good value for money. Several items on this list are basic attributesrelevant to synthetic cosmetics as well as natural cosmetics and provide evidence


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that many of the same attributes are desired by the consumer when shopping forgreen cosmetics as when shopping for more fashionable synthetic or mainstreamcosmetics. Therefore, retailers need to incorporate mainstream marketingstrategy and messaging to communicate to consumers that green cosmeticsprovide the same basic attributes as they desire from synthetics with the added

benefits of being green. Retailers and marketers should appeal to theconsumers sense of fashion, health and environmental consciousness.

Eco-Apparel

The literature review included 13 studies on eco-fashion, eleven of which wereconsidered recent data (dated 2000 2011) and included in the analysis(Casadesus-Masanell, Crooke, Reinhardt, & Vasishth, 2009; Dickson, 2000;Gam, 2011; Gam, Cao, Furr, & Kang, 2010; Ha-Brookshire & Norum, 2011;Hustvedt & Dickson, 2007; Lin, 2010; McGoldrick & Freestone, 2008; Niinimaki,2010; Ogle, Hyllegard, & Dunbar, 2004; Yan, Hyllegard, & Blaesi, 2011). Thegoals of the studies included researching willingness to pay higher prices andpurchase intention. Common amongst all or a few of the studies were findingsthat product criteria, attitude towards environmental issues, environmentalconcern and environmental purchase behavior were significant. Studies havealso found that desire for fashion and interest in being well dressed, socialmotivators and individual identity are influencers of purchase intention(Dickson, 2000; Niinimaki, 2010). All of the above factors studied in eco-apparelhave been applied to eco-cosmetics (e.g. Rajagopal, 2007) with the exception ofthe factors associated with fashion, social identity and demographics. Moreattention should be directed to including the factors from apparel and socialidentity literature in order to create a more complete model for eco-beauty

purchase intention.

Methodology

This paper employs the qualitative meta-analysis methodology to aggregate andinterpret findings from the domain of research related to purchase intentionsand willingness to pay for natural or organic cosmetics. A qualitative meta-analysis is the process or technique of synthesizing previous research results forthe purpose of discovering the essential elements and transforming the resultsinto a new conceptualization (Schreiber et al., 1997). The process involves

establishing criteria for including research studies in the review of the selectedbody of knowledge.

Data Collection

Computer databases (Galileo, Google Scholar, Business Source, Psych Info) weresearched to identify relevant studies. Keywords were combined into a searchstrategy in different combinations to find studies that met the criteria for the


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review and included a combination of eco-beauty, eco-friendly, sociallyresponsible, green, natural, organic, or naturally derived and cosmetic, personalcare product, fashion, beauty product, or apparel with purchase, buy, willingnessto pay or market. After performing the computer database search, theresearchers then utilized the reference list of all relevant articles found to find

additional studies cited. This is referred to as using a snowball samplingtechnique. The timeframe of all searches were from January 1995 throughFebruary 2012. All identified papers were then evaluated against criteriadetermined by the researchers which included: 1) must be performed withquantitative data analysis, 2) must study either organic or natural cosmetics,organic or eco-apparel or general green products but not food products, and 3)must be published in a peer-reviewed journal so all conference proceedings,industry research reports and periodicals were excluded. This procedureresulted in a sample of 26 academic papers.

Descrip tion of Sample

The papers included in the sample were classified into three categories:cosmetics/personal care products (6 papers), eco-apparel or organic clothing (13papers), and green products (7 papers). Most papers (23 out of 26) werepublished between 2000 and 2012. The papers were further categorized basedon their dependent variables, theoretical frameworks and factors studied.Categorization by dependent variable results in two areas: 1) purchase intentionand 2) willingness to pay.

Data Analysis

Several steps were performed to synthesize the factors, findings and industryopportunities or implications presented in the studies. First, the factors used inthe studies were extracted from the text or models in the papers. Second, thefactor descriptions were reviewed and combined based on concepts meant tomeasure identical concepts. Thirdly, if a factor had sub-factors, the sub-factorswere resorted into the categories to simplify the number of and names of factors.For instance, attitude towards the environment, attitude towards sociallyresponsible apparel, attitude for support of organic, attitude towards pro-environmental regulations, attitude on advertisement, and attitude towardsbrand were classified into two broader categories of attitude; attitude towardsproducts and attitude towards environment. Next, all factors or concepts found

to be significant in the previous studies were pulled out of the text to create anextended model for purchase intention and willingness to pay and to make alisting of broader categories of all factors within the model. Lastly, the data isused to synthesize business opportunities for retailers of natural or organiccosmetics and, by analyzing cosmetics as a component of dress, factors notconsidered in existing cosmetics research are pulled from apparel research asfactors that should be addressed in future research for personal care products.


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Results and Discussions

A total of 121 factors were entered into the meta-analysis spreadsheets andthrough the consolidation methods listed above, 17 major factors were identifiedand used to build the consolidated model. This suggests that many of theresearchers studied the same factors or similar factors whose meanings wereequivalent to factors in other studies.

Common Factors

The common factors are factors that were reported significant by more than 15%of the studies. The most common factor was Attitude towards the Environment (46%). This factor influenced both dependent variables, willingness to pay andpurchase intentions. Following in descending order are the following factors:

Product Attributes & Attractiveness (35%), Consumer Values (31%), Knowledge (27%), Subjective Norm (23%), Communication (19%), and Consumer Lifestyle &Involvement (15%). All of these common factors were tested across all threeproduct categories (personal care, apparel, general green products) sampled forthis study.

The above factors are the condensed factors based on logical relationshipsbetween studies. For instance, product attributes included such attributes ascolor, performance, price, and organic ingredients for both cosmetics and apparel

products. Consumer values included such concepts as health consciousness,environmental consciousness (Kim & Seock, 2009), appearance consciousness(Kim & Chung, 2011), and personal ideology (Niinimaki, 2010). Consumerlifestyle (Ogle, Hyllegard & Dunbar, 2004) was combined with fashioninvolvement (Yan, Hyllegard & Blaesi, 2011) to form a single factor titledConsumer Lifestyle & Involvement , as they both examined how strongly a personactively engages with the product in their daily life. The level of familyinfluence (Yan & Xu, 2010) and socialization agents (Yan & Xu, 2010) werecombined with subjective norms (e.g. Kim & Chung, 2011; Yan et al, 2011) toform a factor titled Subjective Norm . This effort resulted in 17 factors including:(1) Communication; (2) Consumer Values; (3) Company Attributes; (4) Product

Attributes & Attractiveness; (5) Environmental Behavior; (6) Demographics; (7)Consumer Lifestyle & Involvement; (8) Attitude towards Products; (9) Attitudetowards Environment; (10) Perceived Self Competence; (11) Knowledge; (12)Subjective Norm; (13) Prior Experiences; (14) Perceived Behavior Control; (15)Trust in Product; (16) Fashion Orientation; and (17) Shopping Orientation.These factors were used to create the unified models of significant factors for


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predicting purchase intention and willingness to pay for natural and organiccosmetics. The synthesized models are presented as Figure 1 and Figure 2.

Figure 1: Extended Model for Willingness Figure 2: Extended Model forTo Pay More Purchase Intention

Model Comparison

The factors that are included in the synthesized model for purchase intentiontowards natural and organic personal care products but have not been studied inrelation to natural or organic cosmetics are Communication, Consumer Lifestyle,Fashion Orientation and Shopping Orientation. Communication goes beyondgreen marketing to include mainstream media, marketing, word-of-mouth,referrals, commercials issued by the firm and other fashion oriented advertising,

message explicitness, brand name, attitude on advertisement and brand.Consumer lifestyle orientation is a social identity or psychographic variable andrefers to a persons identity with an organization or group and the degree ofinvolvement in activities of the group (Ogle et al., 2004). Fashion orientation, onthe other hand, refers to a persons interest in fashion products and shoppingorientation refers to frequency and motivation for making purchases (Gam,2011). These social and fashion oriented factors have been studied on a limitedbasis in the literature related directly to eco-fashion but not eco-beauty because

Consumer CharacteristicsConsumer ValuesEnvironmental BehaviorsAttitude towardsEnvironmentDemographics (e.g.,gender, age, education,marital status)

Company/RetailerCharacteristics

Communication

Willingness to Pay More

Product-relatedCharacteristics

Attitude toward Product(e.g., fashionable, betterfor health)Product Attributes (e.g.,color, quality, price,effectiveness, brand name)

Willingness to Purchase

Consumer CharacteristicsConsumer ValuesKnowledgeAttitude toward EnvironmentEnvironmental BehaviorsConsumer lifestyle & ProductInvolvementSubjective NormPrior ExperienceDemographicsFashion OrientationPerceived Behavioral ControlPerceived Self Competence

Company/RetailerCharacteristics

Communication

Company Attributes

Product-related CharacteristicsAttitude toward Products &AttractivenessProduct Attributes (e.g., color,quality, price, effectiveness,

brand name)Trust in ProductShopping Orientation


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cosmetics are considered solely for their health and environmental benefits;however, cosmetics in general are regarded as a component of dress and areworn to express ones personal sense of style and to follow fashion trends. Thisqualitative meta-analysis shows that previously tested models and frameworksfor natural and organic cosmetics can be expanded to include factors from eco-

apparel to gain industry knowledge in how to mainstream natural cosmetics.The proposed model suggests how scholars and the organic cosmetics industrycan determine if factors typically shown to influence apparel and dresspurchases may also influence natural cosmetic purchases.

Interestingly, fashion orientation (e.g ., interest and involvement in fashion),consumer lifestyle and shopping orientation were factors that were consideredfor eco-apparel but not for natural or organic cosmetics. Because consumershave a tendency to choose how they look and desire to appear to others as beinga part of a fashion conscious group, catering to social pressures of havingpopular products, purchases from brands that provide the quality of appearance

will be higher than products that merely project an image of health orenvironmental benefits. Although fashion orientation was not studied inprevious research on natural and organic cosmetics, a study by Kim and Seock(2009) found a correlation between fashionability of a natural beauty productand a consumers willingness to pay more for the product, suggesting a possibleimpact of a consumers interest in fashion on her purchases of natural andorganic beauty products. Kim and Chung (2011) found that appearanceconsciousness influenced attitude toward buying organic skin and hair careproducts even though health consciousness did not. In their study, purchaseintention or willingness to pay were not examined. Availability, a factor thatimpacts shopping orientation, is another factor that surprisingly was notincluded in the studies but could have a substantial impact on purchasebehavior of natural and organic cosmetics. Because the industry treats naturalcosmetics as a niche market, products cannot generally be found outside ofhealth food stores or environmental symposiums, craft fairs or other events,making them less available than conventional cosmetics. Figure 3 shows theproposed merging of eco-fashion and eco-beauty utilizing these factors for futureresearch.


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Figure 3: Merging of Eco-Fashion and Eco-Beauty Research

Business Opportunit ies and Further Research

The studies reviewed for this paper also cited common further research areas foreco-apparel, natural and organic cosmetics and green products. One commonarea of research includes examining the effects of demographics; the authors ofseveral studies cited demographic profiling of green consumers as inconclusivesuggesting that additional demographic variables be considered in futureresearch (e.g. Gam, 2010; Gam et al., 2011; Ha-Brookshire & Norum, 2011).

Another common theme for future research is knowledge or product benefits. Inaddition to eco-literacy researchers should examine product benefits thatcommunicate to the consumer how the product is relevant to them. Scholars andbusinesses have the power to impact beliefs and product benefits througheducation and the customer knowledge process (Dimitrova et al, 2009). Oncecognitive domain knowledge has been instituted, affective domain throughmarketing and advertisements can be produced by businesses to link productbenefits to lifestyle and consumer self-concept (Pickett-Baker & Ozaki, 2008).Researchers could then study how knowledge, cognitive and affective statesaffect behavioral response by using S-O-R framework, a popular consumerbehavior framework created by Mehrabian and Russell (1974) that has yet to beused to study natural and organic personal care products. Rajagopal (2007)states that a key challenge for organic product marketers is to increase andstrengthen emotional values to green brands by strengthening individualperception of user benefits of the products. Each of these suggestions can be

performed by including the synthesized factors provided by this study so userbenefits are included in a more holistic manner.

Recommendations for Marketers

In addition to the above suggestions, there are perceived benefits for marketersand retail practitioners in strategically altering marketing messages for eco-beauty products although as suggested by Ishaswini & Datta (2011), along withthe product, the right mix of marketing, PR, sales, service, and management

Social

system Environmental

system

Desire for Fashion

Branding

Availability


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expertise are needed to attract consumers who may be willing to buy.Recommendations for marketers and practitioners include: (1) incorporate socialappeals into marketing strategy, (2) increase overall marketing and brandingincluding fashion specific marketing to increase sales, (3) negate consumerdisbelief in green product claims or certification or turn main marketing focus

onto other benefits as primary and environmental as secondary or added benefit,(4) find unique positioning in the market to expand niche concepts tomainstream through product availability, (5) pay attention to store atmosphericsto incorporate the wider cosmetics and pampering experience for natural brands,(6) increase brand and retailer involvement in fashion so consumers alreadyhigh in involvement will be led to the brand, (7) communicate all direct benefitsto the consumer, (8) know what the consumer wants from cosmetics in generaloutside of eco-benefits, (9) follow research on fashion theory to promote fashionand self fulfillment in cosmetic product messaging, (10) fill niche market atlower price level, and (11) assist in passing labeling policies to create addedcompetitive advantage.

These recommendations are strategic ways to expand natural productofferings to the mainstream beauty consumer but should be implemented whilemaintaining a focus on several main points found in previous research including:(1) eco-benefits should just be a side benefit when marketing products, (2) eco-friendly products must perform competitively with synthetic products, (3) theattitude-behavior gap is widely documented in the studies so a solution toinfluence consumers affectively instead of cognitively is crucial, (4) once qualityand other attributes are equivalent to synthetic brands, natural and organicproducts could easily become mainstream as consumers will perceive dualbenefit instead of self-sacrifice, (5) once demand is steadily increasing respondwith appropriate reduction in costs and (6) research on the natural and organiccosmetics and personal care products product category should expand to includesocietal, fashion, culture and identity theoretical bases.

Performing this research and implementing these tactical marketingchanges will help retailers meet their goals of providing cosmetic products to themainstream cosmetic client by providing them with fashion attributes(attractive, quality, color, appropriate price, branding etc), added social normsthat occur with wanting the products that are popular amongst ones peer groupin a fashion sense (makeup artistry, celebrity endorsed, event driven etc) alongwith the side benefit of being eco-friendly or better for ones health. Building

fashion branded eco-beauty products would open the door for organic,environmental, and health benefit education by the client being attracted to theproduct first because of its place in dress as a fashion and self esteem buildingproduct. Reversal education by way of customer knowledge management is thencrucial for retailers to know what attributes of the products are important toconsumers even after they have been exposed to health and environmentaleducation. Appealing to the consumers attitudes towards the products and need


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for convenience are crucial for marketers. These are strategic ways to capturethe consumer that is currently undecided about purchasing eco-beauty or greenproducts which as stated in the Laroche, Bergeron & Barbaro-Forieo (2001)study there is a large group of undecided consumers. This strategic way ofadding competitive advantage will allow natural beauty product retailers to take

advantage of the revenue growth expected in this market from now into thefuture.

References

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Gam HJ, Cao H, Farr C and Kang M (2010) Quest for the eco-apparel market: Astudy of mothers' willingness to purchase organic cotton clothing for theirchildren. International Journal of Consumer Studies 34(6): 648-656.


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Ha-Brookshire JE and Norum PS (2011) Willingness to pay for sociallyresponsible products: Case of cotton apparel. Journal of Consumer Marketing 28(5): 344-353.

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Au thor In formation

Davis-Bundrage, Melodie R.

Mrs. Davis-Bundrage is pursuing the Ph D. in International Merchandising inthe College of Family and Consumer Sciences, at the University of Georgia, in

Athens, Georgia. Her area of academic interest is in retail management,consumer behavior, and green marketing.

Kim, Soyoung


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Dr. Soyoung is an Associate Professor in the College of Family and ConsumerSciences, at the University of Georgia, in Athens, Georgia. Professor Kimearned a Doctorate from Iowa State University and teaches courses in RetailPlanning, E-tailing and Merchandising Theories and Methodologies. Her area ofinterest is in consumer behavior and e-tailing. .

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Davis-Bundrage & Kim