48 ITALIA! January 2006

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Sadly all too often overlooked by the international visitor, the provinceof Pavia is often referred to as ‘Lombardy’s best-kept secret’. Thismight have been what attracted the Milanese Visconti family whenthey conquered Pavia in 1359, leaving many Pavians fearing that themedieval capital of the Lombard kingdom would enter a state of

decline. Yet the noble family was instantly drawn to Pavia’s stately, refinedcharm and devoted their creative energies to the town.

Despite being overshadowed by its imposing northern neighbour, thearrival of the Viscontis marked a period of regeneration in Pavia, which soonbecame a town of high art, culture and intellect. Once settled, the familyfounded the town’s university, the Castello Visconteo and the Certosa di Paviain just one extraordinary century. The affection they endowed Pavia, and thereasons why it fascinated them so, are still tangible to the visitor today.

Walking around Pavia, you feel invisible; the un-territorial locals silentlyaccept you as part of their town’s fabric. Through a process of osmosis, youblend into their civilised and welcoming society. Pavia is at peace with itself.

Nowhere is Pavia’s culture more felt than in its medieval centre. Hiddenbehind the Strada Nuova, the University of Pavia is one of the oldest in Italy.This 9th-century school of law was inaugurated as a university in 1361 byCharles IV and Galeazzo II Visconti. It later became established in the hands ofLudovico Sforza (known as Ludovico il Moro due to his dark looks).

Pavia

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Tucked away in the Lombardy plains, the heart of medievalItaly beats on. Marie Barbieri rediscovers why for centuriesthe Pavese province attracted Italy’s most noble families.

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DON’T MISSTHE TOWN OF VARZI In ancient Varziyou will find theworld-famous andnow DOC(protected)salami. Medievalin origin anddelicate andsweet in flavour,it is sold at thecattle market onFridays; on thefirst Sunday inJune you cancatch the SalamiFestival. Whileyou are here, takesome time tovisit The Templeof Fraternity innearby Cella. It isconstructed fromrecycled parts ofships, town hallsand churchesdestroyed duringWorld War II.

WHAT TO SEECASTELLO VISCONTEO !1

Via XI Febbraio, Pavia" +39 038 233 853Built by the notorious, yet influentialGian Galeazzo, this 14th-century castlewas the Visconti’s pleasure-cove. Today,its frescoed rooms house the civicmuseums, with a beautifully intricatecypress and oak model of Pavia’s Duomo. Open 9am–2pm Tue-Fri; 10am–7pmweekends. Closed Mondays.

SAN TEODORO !2The river end of Via Porta Calcinara, PaviaTucked away in cobbled streets, thisredbrick church houses the statue of SanTeodoro, who cradles the city of Pavia inhis arms. The two frescoes, Veduta diPavia, are bird’s-eye depictions of Pavia inthe 1500s. Recognised as Pavia’s firstmaps, they still baffle analysts as it isunknown how the anonymous artistmapped the city with such accuracy.

BEREGUARDO’S PONTE DI BARCHE !3

Originally straddling the River Po, thisfloating bridge is one of the few survivingexamples of its kind. Only 30km fromPavia, summer sees locals flooding to theriver banks to tan. Follow the Ticinonorth-west, via a picture-postcard drivethrough precisely aligned pioppi rows.

LEONARDO DA VINCI EXHIBITION !4

Piazza San Francesco, 8, Vigevano" +39 033 5520 7542Engineering enthusiasts can easily whileaway a day at Ludovico il Moro’s watermill. The superbly reproduced models ofLeonardo’s machines have been craftedfrom his manuscripts by skilled engineers. Open Weekends from 10.30am–6.30pm.

PONTE COPERTO !5

River-end of Strada Nuova, Pavia Cross at your own risk, as legend has itthat the devil created this bridge onChristmas Eve in 999! Believing that thebridge was in exchange for the first soulto cross it, clever locals sent a dog overto trick Satan. Destroyed during World WarII and rebuilt in 1951 with granite pillarsrepositioned to support its roof, it leadsover to the rural suburb of Borgo Ticino.

BASILICA DI SAN MICHELE !6

Via San Michele, by Via Cavallotti, PaviaThis 12th-century sandstone church,rebuilt following an earthquake, is a fineexample of Romanesque architecture.Central to Pavia’s past as Italy’s capital, itwas frequently used for coronations. Itsrich sculptural decoration reveals carvingsof griffins and dragons battling humans.Look out for the controversial crucifix,which uniquely depicts Christ with openeyes and a calm face, no crown of thornsor wounds, and parallel feet.

to stabilise its leaning tower.”Shockingly, when the Romanesquetower by Piazza del Duomo suddenlycollapsed in March of that year, itkilled four people.

TO BE SEEN AND NOT HEARDI travelled eight kilometres north tofind the colossal Certosa di Pavia.The first stone of this 14th-centurymasterpiece, encapsulating Gothic,Renaissance and Baroque styles, waslaid by Gian Galeazzo Visconti, thedespotic ruler of Milan.

Prompted by the wish of hissecond wife (and cousin) Caterina, theDuke began donating funds for itsconstruction in 1393, employing over300 people. It was dedicated to theMadonna delle Grazie and named afterthe inhabiting Carthusian monks, wholed a life of silent penitence.

Alas, when Gian Galeazzo died inthe plague of 1402, the monasterywas not completed. Still, he departedonly after adding to his will anobligation for his son to donate10,000 florins per year to theCertosa’s continuing construction,which extended over two centuries.

Many important literary andacademic figures broughtinternational recognition to theuniversity, including the renownedpoet and professor of Italian literatureUgo Foscolo. Leonardo da Vinci,Christopher Columbus andAlessandro Volta were all students inPavia. Indeed, it was here that Voltachanged the world forever in 1799 byinventing the battery. Today, itremains one of the leadinguniversities for the study ofengineering and commerce.

Walk through the university intoPiazza Leonardo da Vinci and you willbe humbled by Pavia’s landmarkmedieval towers. There are only threeleft in ‘The City of One HundredTowers’, as Pavia is so often referred toin ancient texts. These 11th-centurystructures were built more as symbolsof family status than for protection;enemy families would demolish eachothers’ towers during conflicts.

“There used to be four of thoseuntil 1989”, offered a student as Icraned my neck to photograph theirscale. “After the last one fell,” shecontinued, “the Pisa council decided

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50 ITALIA! January 2006

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Piazza Ducale is the emblem of Renaissance style.

The work of the devil? Rebuilt Ponte Coperto, with its old foundations in the foreground.

Walking around Pavia, you feel invisible;locals accept you as part of the town’s fabric.

The perfectly combed hills of the Oltrepo Pavese.

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WHERE TO EAT BAR BORDONI !7

Via Bordoni, 24, Pavia " +39 038 221 652This historic bar in the town centre hasmaintained the same menu for the last 30years. Relax in its solid oak furnishingsand choose from 52 varieties of paniniand focaccie.

TRATTORIA AL CONFINE !8

Frazione Canova, Caminata" +39 052 3993 029Perched at 600 metres in combedvineyards, this one-time customs-houseenjoys sweeping views across the OltrepoPavese. Their unique cuisine comprisesmini-starters followed by mains, desserts,local wines and liqueurs – all inclusive inthe set menu at €29.

PIZZERIA GAUDI !9

Via XX Settembre, 14, Vigevano " +39 038 1690 474Its post-modern interior with fragmentedmirrors is somewhat unexpected just offhistoric Piazza Ducale, but Pizzeria Gaudi’scutting-edge menu complements its decor.The gorgeous strozzapreti con porcininever fails to impress.

OSTERIA IL SENATORE !10

Corso Mazzini, 8, Pavia" +39 038 225 954One of Pavia’s oldest establishments, IlSenatore offers quality dishes such asgrilled swordfish marinated in pinkpeppers. Live jazz bands make for a livelyand sophisticated atmosphere.

CHALET DELLA CERTOSA !11

Piazzale Monumento, 1, Certosa di Pavia" +39 038 2934 935In a stunning setting, a favourite spot forwedding couples, this restaurantoverlooks the Certosa. Since 1881 it hascatered for its diners on its canopiedveranda and pretty open balcony. Allmeals are freshly homemade with fixedprice menus.

GOI !12

Via Togliatti, 2, San Martino Siccomario " +39 038 2498 887If a local speciality beckons, make yourway to the heart of Pavia’s rice fields.This upmarket trattoria serves traditionalrisottos softened by background jazz.

RESTAURANT PIZZERIA PALINURO !13

Via Teodolinda 38, Pavia" +39 038 222 266Air-conditioned and with terrace diningduring the summer months, PizzeriaPalinuro is noted for its speciality fare,priding itself on producing unique andquality dishes. It location in the historiccentre of Pavia makes it convenient for aquick bite while sightseeing.

sobering experience; the opening bythe door is where he would receive hisonly daily meal, to be eaten in silenceand without being seen. Carthusianmonks would spend their lives intheir solitary cells, concentrating onprayer and theological study.

Since the late 1960s, the Certosahas been home to Cistercian monks,who have since opened their doors tovisitors. They run services, cultivatethe adjoining fields and distil herballiqueurs for the onsite shop.

The corridor approaching the shopis full of intriguing panels detailingthe monks’ herbal infusions. All theirexperience in blending herbs comestogether in displays on how their teascan help medical conditions such ashigh cholesterol and hypertension.The range of products are sold by themonks themselves, along with aselection of chocolate, honey andliqueurs – all made on the premises.

NOBLE DELIGHTIf you head north-west over the riverTicino, you will be welcomed by theCastello di Vigevano and its PiazzaDucale. Arguably, Vigevano’s castleand the adjoining gem of a square arethe most prestigious architecturalcompositions in Lombardy.

Both of the dynasties by whichmedieval Lombardy is known – theViscontis and the Sforzas

Intended as the family’smausoleum, the Visconti’s mark onthis monastery is indelible. GianGaleazzo’s funeral is narrated by themarble bas-relief on the left-hand-sideof the entrance, displaying withformidable perspective the processionof mourners carrying the Certosa,with its then-incomplete facade. Hiscorpse, alongside that of his first wife,(Isabella of Valois), lies within theelaborate tomb on the right side ofthe transept. The funereal atmosphereplanned by Gian Galeazzo is stillpalpable today as you wade throughthe Certosa’s heavy silence.

Both the Viscontis and the Sforzasare represented by Bergognoni’stransept frescoes, with Gian Galeazzopresenting the Certosa itself to theVirgin Mary. Opposite the founder’smausoleum lie the marble statues ofLudovico il Moro and his wife Beatriced’Este, who funded the decoration ofthe monastery. Sculpted by CristoforoSolari in 1497, the statues had beencommissioned by Ludovico il Morohimself on Beatrice’s passing.

Followed only by the echo of yourfootsteps, you can wander throughGuiniforte Solari’s large cloister (themonks’ living quarters), whichconsists of 24 cells framed by 122terracotta arches, each withindividually carved and uniquecornices. Entering a monk’s cell is a

DON’T MISSMUSEO DELLACALZATURAVigevano is thebirthplace ofshoe production.This museum’sfirst shoes weredonated in the1950s by itsfounder, PietroBertolini (laterknighted). Now,300 pairs chartthe history offootwear, fromthe 15th-centuryto post-moderndesigns. Duringthe site’s recentexcavation, oneof BeatriceD’Este’s platformshoes from 1490was discovered.You will also seethe shoes ofMussolini,Marilyn Monroeand the late PopeJohn Paul II. (Castello diVigevano. Closedon Mondays.€2.50 entry.)

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arterial network of undergroundpassages, I found myself taking ahaunting step back into the past.

THE LIVING ROOMKnown affectionately by locals as ‘thecity’s living room’, neighbouringPiazza Ducale was commissioned byLudovico il Moro as a statelyforecourt to the castle and a grandentrance to the ducal palace.

Bramante’s welcoming intentionscertainly worked on me. This earlyRenaissance masterpiece is universallydefined as one of the most beautifulsquares in Italy. Indeed it is: its threefrescoed sides are trellised witharched porticos, themselves supportedby 84 granite columns.

If you happen to be here inOctober, you can see the annual Paliodelle Contrade (a celebratory andcompetitive festival) taking place.This is a sophisticated extravaganzare-enacting the 15th-century nobleceremonies of the Sforzas.

Sealed by the 1680 concavebaroque façade of St Ambrogiocathedral, the square is 15th-centuryLombard architecture at its best.Already working on the castle,Bramante designed its 64-metre-highTorre del Bramante, the highest pointin town. The view from the top isnothing short of stunning. This is thespot from which to appreciate

instinctively took to Vigevano forentertaining nobility, using the castlea venue for receiving Europe’s royalty.

The first phase of constructionbegan in 1341 under the Viscontis,who developed the Maschio, ducalpalace and the Strada Coperta, acovered road acknowledged as one ofthe finest examples of medievalmilitary engineering. It was designedto enable the duke of Milan and hishorsemen to leave and re-enter thecastle secretly. I too enjoyed thisanonymity as I stole through thesunray-dappled passage.

The Sforza family took over in1450, adding the falconry, the stablesand the ladies’ quarters created forBeatrice d’Este (Ludovico’s wife, whodied at the age of 22), all of whichbenefited from artistic embellishmentsby Bramante and Leonardo da Vinci.The Florentine genius is believed tohave been inspired by the Sforzastables when he designed his modelof ‘The Perfect Stable’.

Ludovico il Moro restored theducal palace with its fresco-adornedhalls and rooms during the 15thcentury, proud of the fact that it wasone of the largest fortresses in Europe.

Re-opened to the general publicin 1996 after 30 years, museumexhibitions and musical festivals takeplace within its cavernous dungeons.As I stalked further down into their

WHERE TO STAYCASA SCARANO B&B !14

Via Valletta Fogliano, 141, Vigevano" +39 038 1341 929You will be warmly welcomed into thishomely country house close to theRenaissance town of Vigevano. Rooms arelight, airy and comfortable, plus mountainbikes are provided for guests.Double room €50

HOTEL MODERNO !15

Viale Vittorio Emanuele, 41, Pavia" +39 038 2303 401www.hotelmoderno.itThese lavishly furnished en-suite roomsare air-conditioned and soundproofed.Access to the health centre is inclusive ofthe price. Pop into its stylish bar for alate-night tipple. Double room €140

LA CA’ VECCHIA B&B !16

Via Casa Vecchia, 15, Rea, Pavia" +39 038 5950 016A country house located on the banks ofthe River Po near the Oltrepo Pavese hills.Sit in their kiwi garden and soak up thetranquillity of the area. Basic, clean andspacious rooms.

CASCINA BELCREDI !17

Via San Fedele, 11, Sommo " +39 038 2402 189A very friendly atmosphere awaits at oneof Sommo’s oldest buildings, where thetown’s bread was once baked in theircourtyard. Double room €60

PRESIDENT HOTEL TERME !18

Via Perosi, 5, Salice Terme " +39 038 391 941www.president-hotel.itAll rooms have a smart modernist décor.Each comes with balcony overlooking thehotel’s private garden and swimming pool.This spa hotel makes full use of the localsulphuric water sources, used medicinallysince Roman times. Double room €104

PLAZA HOTEL !19

Via Togliatti, 39, Pavia" +39 038 2559 413 Located inside the Ticino Park, the Plazaattracts an international clientele withAmerican-style rooms and buffetbreakfast. Double room €140

CASTELLO DI LUZZANO !20

Frazione Luzzano, Rovescala" +39 052 3863 277 www.castelloluzzano.itIf the area’s castles have given you a tastefor medieval living, stay in the estate ofthis ancient castle, in a self-containedapartment. Nestled within its own DOCvineyards, it has a restaurant serving theirown Luzzano wine. Digging is taking placeto unveil a Roman villa dating back to the1st century. One-bedroom apartment €105

DON’T MISSTEATROFRASCHINI This bell-shapedtheatre on theStrada Nuovaopened for thelocal nobility in1773. Open tothe general publicfrom 1869, it wasrenamed after thePavia-born tenorGaetanoFraschini. This750-seater hostsperformances ofdrama, dance andconcerts and, ofcourse, opera, butits four rows oftheatre boxes, anextraordinarysight, are perhaps its mostnotable attribute.

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Symbols of power – the medieval towers of Pavia’s stately past.

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Castello Visconteo’s delicatelymanicured and tranquil gardens.

The peaceful cloister within Pavia’s Castello Visconteo. The peaceful cloister within Pavia’s Castello Visconteo.

Castello Visconteo’s delicatelymanicured and tranquil gardens.

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DON’T MISSTHE DUOMOBefore buildingbegan in 1488,the Romanicchurches of SanStefano and SantaMaria del Popolostood on the siteof Pavia’sRenaissancecathedral. TheDuomo, partlyplanned byBramante, is yetto have itsmarble facadecompleted. It iscrowned by Italy’sthird-largestdome (after Romeand Florence) at90 metres high,underneathwhich, close tothe heart of thelocals, are CarloSacchi’s paintingsof San Siro’s life:Pavia’s patronsaint, painted byPavia’s mostfamous artist.Also inside is thesaint’s tomb(Piazza Duomo,off Via Omodeo).

Torre del Bramante overlooking Piazza Ducale and Vigevano’s castle.

globally for its dessert wines such asMoscato, Malvasia and the sparklingSangue di Giuda (Judas’ blood).

In the heart of the Moscatovalleys, between Volpara andMolinella, lie the vineyards of AngeloRampuzzi. Since 1800 his family hasbeen harvesting grapes, rigorouslypicked by hand, on their ten hectaresof 250-metre-altitude vineyards.

Angelo produces the ubiquitousBonarda and Pinot Nero, butspecialises in the red and whiteMoscato varieties. He proudlyexplained that: “Both of these aredessert wines. The red I make withshrivelled overripe grapes for theirhigher sugar content and, uniquely, Igrow the white alongside my yellowpeach trees. This lends it a sweetpeachy aroma.” He leant towards me,eyebrows lifted, adding: “I am theonly one to do this...”

Angelo runs the monthlybarbecue and wine-tasting event heldat the Tempio del Moscato (by thechurch in Volpara), where localproduce is at its best. His Golferenzovineyard is also open to visitors (for afree guided tour of the productionprocess and a wine-tasting session, callhim on 0385 993 40).

You cannot help yourselfbecoming immersed in the charm ofPavia, its subtle society and ancestralgrandeur always ready to impress. !!

the disarming intricacy andharmony of Piazza Ducale and itssurrounding areas.

THE DA VINCI CONNECTION‘Rice is born in water, but dies inwine’; nowhere is this Italian sayingmore relevant than in the province ofPavia, world-famous for its rice andwine. Of the many notable figuresfrom Pavia’s past, the one who left thebiggest mark on the area’s landscape isarguably Leonardo da Vinci, whocontributed to the task of draining theRiver Po’s marshlands by designingthe necessary drainage channels.

As a result of his work, rice hasbecome a staple food of the Pavese,with fields flooded and drained inMay and the grain harvested inOctober. Italy’s premier rice brand,Riso Scotti, is based in Pavia and isthe largest European producer.

It was the monks of the Certosawho created the risotto that thisprovince is renowned for. Risotto allaCertosina (traditionally made withfrogs, prawns, peas and mushrooms)made use of abundant local resourcesand was considered a delicacy by thenobility. Nowadays, you can find thisdish in most specialised restaurants.

Second only to rice, wine –particularly that from the OltrepoPavese region – is the province’s othermain industry. The area is known

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The beautifully carved saints adorning the facade of the Certosa.

The curved façade of St Ambrogio perfectly conceals the misaligned cathedral from the square.

GETTING THERE" BY PLANEFrom Heathrow you can fly with BA toMilan’s Malpensa or Linate airports.Birmingham and Manchester passengerscan fly to Malpensa with Alitalia. Ryanairflies from Stansted to Milan (Bergamo).• With hire car:

From Malpensa airport, take the A8towards Milan and Genova, heading forthe A7. Exit at Bereguardo Pavia Nord.

• From Linate airport:Take the Tangenziale Est motorwaytowards Bologna and Genova, followedby the Tangenziale Ovest towardsGenova. This leads to the A7 and ontothe Bereguardo Pavia Nord exit.

• Car hire companies:Alamo, at both Linate and Malpensa,offers car rental from €46 per day.www.alamo.comAvis, in Pavia, offers car rental from €57per day. They are located at VialeCremona, 19. www.avis.com

" BY TRAINTake the Eurostar from Waterloo to Paris,then the TGV to Milan. Trains run fromMilan Central to Pavia. www.trenitalia.it

" BY CARTake the Eurotunnel or ferry to Calaisand head for Milan. 30km south of theMilan ring-road, join the A7 motorwayfor Bereguardo Pavia Nord.

" GETTING AROUNDPavia’s bus network is run by ASM-LINE.You can purchase a ten-journey multi-trip pass for €7.75, or a one-day passoffering unlimited travel for €3.

University students recharging theirenergies by Alessandro Volta.

54 ITALIA! January 2006

University students recharging theirenergies by Alessandro Volta.

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