Croatia 5 Northern Dalmatia

8/10/2019 Croatia 5 Northern Dalmatia

1/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

The Zadar and ibenik regions make up northern Dalmatia, an area thats ideal for the dis-

cerning traveller, and those wanting to discover a part of the coast that s less of a victim to

hordes of seasonal tourists. This is also great off-the-beaten-track territory, with the islands

of Pag and Dugi Otok remaining tranquil even in the busiest of summer seasons. Check out

the beauty of Krka National Park where the dry karstic interior is divided by the Krka River,

connecting the coastal bay with the splendid Krka waterfalls, and feel like a true explorer

on the remote and unvisited Kornati Islands aside from excellent swimming, both destina-tions have fantastic hiking opportunities. Croatias two major national parks are here, too.

Paklenica National Park is the best in the country for hiking and rock climbing, while the

waterfalls and lakes of Plitvice Lakes National Park are a watery, verdant heaven.

On the urban side theres the town of Zadar, a fascinating coastal city filled with museums,

Roman ruins, good dining and excellent nightlife. Its relative lack of tourism means that this

is a coastal town that still lives and breathes for its inhabitants. Nearby, ibenik is up and

coming with a vengeance, flaunting an extraordinary Renaissance centre, interesting new

museums and some great gastronomy, and finally shedding its postwar melancholy.

Northern Dalmatia is a great mix of nature, beaches, good cities and tonnes of exploring

opportunities thatll satiate the most ravenous of hungers for new parts of Croatia.

Northern Dalmatia

Lonely Planet Publications

TELEPHONE CODE: 022, 023

HIGHLIGHTS

Discovering Zadar(opposite), one of thecoasts loveliest and most underrated towns

Partying atthe Garden(p194), a fantasticvenue if ever there was one

Listening to Zadars haunting Sea Organ(p189)

Diving from Sali(p202), on Dugi Otok

Taking a wet walk through Plitvice LakesNational Park(p195) or swimming in a lakein Krka National Park(p212)

Visiting the village and beaches ofPrimoten(see boxed text, p213)

Krka

Primoten

National Park

National ParkPlitvice Lakes

Sali

Zadar

184


2/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m Z A D A R R E G I O N Z a d a r

ZADAR REGIONThe Zadar region is a great place to get toknow a different side of Croatia. Theres the

beautiful town itself, the amazing nationalparks of Plitvice and Paklenica, and the gor-geous island of Ugljan.

ZADAR%023 / pop 69,200Its hard to solve the mystery of why Zadar(ancient Zara), the main city of northernDalmatia, is an underrated tourist destination.

Is it because it has a compact, marble, traffic-free old town that follows the old Roman streetplan and contains Roman ruins and medieval

To Split

(18km)To Split

(68km)To Rijeka

Pula (Istria)To Mali Loinj;

(Italy)To Ancona

To Rijeka

To Zagreb(105km)

To Zagreb

PassageProlaz

Samogradska

Passage

A D R I A T I C

S E A

BayTelaica

SeaVirsko

i

r

e

n

r

a

v

K

Maslenica

Veli Rat

Strako

DolacPrimorski

DonjiZemunik

Mandreimuni

KapelaMala

TrogirSegetKatela

Novigrad

Ugljan

LozovacZaton

Vodice

Skradin

ibenikMandalina

Primoten

Tribunj

Zablae

Bilice

irje

Drni

Paklenica

Diklo

KrupaLopar

Rab

Minjak

BakaKrk

BrinjeSenj

Jablanac

Otoac Jezerce

Prizna

Karlobag

Perui

Liki Osik

Gospi

Korenica

Starigrad-

Udbina D Lapac

Srb

Bosnia

Biha

igljenNovalja

Pag

drelac

Ist

Molat

Brbinj

Zaglav

Sali

Kali

Preko

Tkon

MurterTisno

Privlaka

Pakotane

Biograd

Sukoan

Bibinje

ZADAR

Graac

Obrovac

Benkovac

Ervenik

Strmica

Knin

Kistanje Vrbnik

MonasteryKrka

Roki Slap

Skradinski Buk

ParkNational

Krka

Park

KornatiNational

National ParkPlitvice Lakes

National ParkPaklenica

Orlovac(1201m)

(1657m)Ozeblin

(1402m)V Crnopac

(1757m)Vaganski vrh

(1451m)Siljevaa

k

at

o

P

ka

jlr

O

ac

i

ve

r

jl

P

al

ep

a

K

a

l

a

M

T

I

B

E

L

E

V

(1492m)Bijeli

(1623m)atorina

SeaMurtesko

SeaNovogradsko

LakeVransko

LakeKruiko

GrgurSveti

Zlarin

TijatPrvi

ZmajanKakan

LavsaPikera

irje

Kaprije

OtokDugi

Krk

Rab

Loinj

Cres

Dolin

Oruda

Ilovik

Prvi

Plavnik

krda

Maun

Premuda

SilbaOlib Pag

Molat

Sestrunj

karda

I

Ugljan

Paman

LevrnakaKornat

ut

Murter

Vir

Boava

Krk

a

Krka

nja

a

Una

Una

Korana

Zrm

H E R C E G O V I N AB O S N I A &

E71

33

33

D8E65

33

A1

A1

A1

50

E71

E71

E71

D8

54

E65

E65

D8

27

E65

D8

25

A1

D8

E65

50

E71

NORTHERN DALMATIA 0 30 km0 20 miles

185


3/32


4/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA


MEDICAL SERVICESHospital(%315 677; Boe Periia 5)

MONEYTravel agencies also change money and theresan exchange office and ATM at the bus sta-tion. There are plenty of ATMs in town, with

one at Zagreba

ka Banka(Knezova ubia Bribirskih 4),where you can also change money.

POSTPost office(Poljana Pape Aleksandra III;h8am-7pmMon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) You can make phone calls here.

TOURIST INFORMATIONTourist office (%316 166; www.tzzadar.hr; MiheKlaia 5;h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun Jun-Sep,

8am-6pm Mon-Sat Oct-May) The main information centre.Ask for the free Zadar City Guide.

TRAVEL AGENCIESAquarius Travel Agency (%/fax 212 919; www.juresko.hr; Nova Vrata bb;h8am-7pm) Books accom-modation and excursions.

Miatours(%/fax 212 788; www.miatours.hr; VrataSvetog Krevana;h8am-7pm Mon-Sat) Arranges accom-modation and excursions.

SightsCITY WALLSA tour of the city walls provides a good insightinto Zadars history. Start with the easternwalls near the footbridge, the only remainsof the ancient Roman and early medieval

4

1

3

2

DBA C

Zaton (18km)Nin (18km);

Hostel (500m);

(800m)Frankopanska

Zrinsko-Albin (500m);

To Pansion

Swimming Area (750m); Bus & TrainHotel President (700m);

Zadar YouthGotham (500m);Adriana (500m);

Garden WingFunimation (500m);Borik Beach (500m);

Borik (500m);Autocamp Borik (500m);

Niko (400m);Supernova (100m);

Restaurant Albin (2.5km);

Zadar Airport (12km)Barbarella's (12km); Petrane (12km);

Bar (100m); StudentTo Maraschino

(500m)Hre

To Villa(Italy)To Ancona

Ljepotica (100m);

Hostel (100m);Zalogajnica

To Hospital (500m);

Stations (1km); Hotel Kolovare (1km);

IslandsTo Kornati

Harbour

Jazine

Channel

Zadarski

Foa

TowerMedieval

VrataNova

oriaStom

a

atin

m

KrevanaVrata Svetog

Prodana

DonIve

Budinia

ime

Ljubiaime

Bribirskih

Knezovaubia

Mihe

Klai

a

Sabo

ra

PodBedemom

Zanottija

Sira

c

Kovaka

Jurje

vaBl

aa

BrVranja

nin

atin

ske

Dalm

Papa

vije

Dal

Jurja

Barak

ovia

Grisogona

Nikole Matafara

Pravdonoe

Smiljan

ia

Varoka

pire Brusine

BrneKrn

arutia

Borelli

JurjaDalmatinca

Branim

ira

Obala

Kneza

iiaun

a

arskih

Kreim

iraIV

BenjeKoii

a

imun

a

ObalaK

raljaPetra

Pobun

a

Bedemi Zad

Ko

im

Fabijania

FraD

JBjankinija

Madije

vaca

iroka

iroka

Benje

Pobuna

Bedemi Zadarskih

Bersa

MateKa

raman

a

E Kotromani

Polj

anaP

apeA

leksand

raIII

Ista

rska

obala

1358

mira

ni

Dmit

ra

Kralja

Obala

Obala

Mihorila

Zadarskog mira

Zvo

Liburnska

Pavlinovia

Boid

ara

Petra

novi

a

Bok

ovi

a

Rue

ra

LukeJelia

Liburnska

Footbrid

ge

ikeTrg Opatice

StoijeTrg Svete

Bunara

NodilaNatka

Trg

TrgNarodni

Tri3Bunara

Poljana

Trg Pet

Zeleni

14

34

33 36

3

35

39

23

38

25

13

18

44

41

24

17 20

19 7

31

37

22

40

28

29

2

43

12

30

1

4

474542

46

26

5

27

32

9

15

8

16

6

10

21

11

47464544

4342

TRANSPORT

SHOPPING

414039

ENTERTAINMENT

3837363534

DRINKING

33

323130292827

EATING

26SLEEPING

2524232221201918171615141312

1110

98

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

765432

1INFORMATION

Jadrolinija Stall......................... C1Jadrolinija................................. B1Jadroagent............................... C1Ferries to Ancona (Italy)........... A1

Croatia Express ....................... C2Croatia Airlines......................... C1

Croporter.............................(see 39)Callegro.................................(see 39)

National Theatre...................... C3Garden..................................... B1Callegro................................... C2

Maya Pub................................. B1Kult Caffe................................ C3Galerija ina............................ C3Caff Bar Lovre........................ D3Arsenal..................................... B1

Trattoria Canzona.................... C3

Supermarket............................ C2Na po ure................................ D3Market.................................... D2Kornat...................................... B1Foa......................................... D4Dva Ribara............................... C3

Venera Guest House................ C4

Town Watchtower................... D3Town Gate.............................. D4Sun Salutation.......................... A1Sea Organ............................... A2St Simeon's Church.................. D3St Grisogonus Church.............. C2Roman Forum.......................... B2Port Gate................................. D2Orthodox Church..................... B2National Museum.................... C2Museum of Church Art............ C2Loggia..................................... D3Gate of St Rok......................... D2 Church................................. B2

Franciscan Monastery &Church of St Donat.................. C2Cathedral of St Anastasia......... C2Art Gallery................................. D3Archaeological Museum............ C2

Zagrebaka Banka..................... C2Tourist Office............................ D3Post Office................................. C2Miatours.................................... C2Internet Spot.............................. C3Garderoba (Jadrolinija Dock)...... D2Arsenal..................................(see 34)Aquarius Travel Agency............. D2

ZADAR 0 200 m0 0.1 miles

187


5/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

Z A D A R R E G I O N Z a d a r l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

fortifications (most of the walls were builtunder Venetian rule). Nearby are four oldcity gates northwest is the Gate of St Rok,then the Port Gate. The latter was built in 1573,and still sports the Venetian lion and part of a

Roman triumphal arch, and has a memorialinscription of the 1571 Battle of Lepanto inwhich the Austrians delivered a decisive blowto the Turkish navy. In the southeast is theTown Gate, the most elaborate of all and builtunder the Venetian administration in 1543.Its Renaissance-style decorations include StKrevan on horseback, the Venetian lion, in-scriptions and coats of arms. The fourth gateis at Trg Pet Bunara.

TRG PET BUNARATrg Pet Bunara or Five Wells Sq, behind StSimeons Church, was built in 1574 on the siteof a former moat and contains a cistern withfive wells that supplied Zadar with water until1838. Its smaller cousin, Trg Tri Bunara (ThreeWells Sq), sits right on the other side of townand sports the excellentArsenal (p193). Thisrefurbished shipping warehouse lay in ruins

for years before being turned into a culturalcentre containing a bar, restaurant, severalshops (music, food, wine), a tourist office anda stage that hosts theatre, live music and anynumber of shows. Just off the square is theGarden bar and club (p194), making this areaa mini cultural hub.

ST SIMEONS CHURCHThis church (Crkva Svetog ime;%211 705; Trg ime

Budinica;h8am-noon & 6-8pm Jun-Sep) was recon-structed in the 16th and 17th centuries on thesite of an earlier church. The sarcophagus ofSt Simeon is a masterpiece of medieval gold-smith work. Commissioned in 1377, the coffinis made of cedar and covered inside and outwith finely executed gold-plated silver reliefs.The middle relief showing Christs presenta-tion in the Temple is a copy of Giottos frescofrom Capella dellArenain Padua, Italy. Other

reliefs depict scenes from the lives of the saintsand King Ludovics visit to Zadar. The lidshows a reclining St Simeon.

NARODNI TRGNarodni Trg was traditionally the centre ofpublic life. The western side of the squareis dominated by the late-Renaissance TownWatchtower, dating from 1562. The clock towerwas built under the Austrian administration

in 1798. Public proclamations and judgmentswere announced from the loggia across thesquare, which is now an exhibition space.Several hundred metres northwest of NarodniTrg is the Orthodox Church, behind which is a

small Serbian neighbourhood.

CATHEDRAL OF ST ANASTASIAThe Romanesque Cathedral of St Anastasia(Katedrala Svete Stoije;%251 708; Trg Svete Stoije),near the Church of St Donat, was built in the12th and 13th centuries on the site of an olderchurch. Behind the richly decorated facade isan impressive three-nave interior marked by13th-century wall paintings in the side apses.

Notice the fresco of a gateway in the southernapse, which was used as a model for the doorframe of the main portal. On the altar in theleft apse is a marble sarcophagus containingthe relics of St Anastasia, commissioned byBishop Donat in the 9th century. The pres-bytery contains choir stalls lavishly carved bythe Venetian artist Matej Morozon in the 15thcentury. The cathedral was badly bombed dur-ing WWII and has since been reconstructed.

CHURCH OF ST DONAT & ROMAN RUINSThe main places of interest are near the circu-lar Church of St Donat(Crkva Svetog Donata;%250 516;imuna Koiia Benje; admission 10KN;h9.30am-2pm &4-6pm Mar-Oct),one of the most outstanding mon-uments in Dalmatia. Dating from the beginningof the 9th century, it was named after BishopDonat who allegedly had it built following thestyle of early Byzantine architecture. The unu-

sual circular ground plan is especially visibleon the southern side because the southern an-nexe is missing. The church was built over theRoman forum, which was constructed betweenthe 1st century BC and the 3rd century AD. Afew architectural fragments are preserved andtwo complete pillars are built into the church.The original floors were removed, and nowslabs from the ancient forum are clearly visible.Notice the Latin inscriptions on the remains of

the Roman sacrificial altars.Outside the church on the northwesternside is a pillar from the Roman era that servedas a shame post in the Middle Ages, wherewrongdoers were chained and publicly hu-miliated. The western side of the church hasmore Roman remains, including pillars withreliefs of the mythical figures Jupiter, Amonand Medusa. Underneath, you can see theremains of the altars used in pagan blood

188


6/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA


sacrifices. It is believed that this area was atemple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva,and dates from the 1st century BC.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

The Archaeological Museum (Arheoloki Muzej;%250 516; Trg Opatice ike 1;h9am-1pm & 5-7pmMon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)was closed for refurbish-ment at the time of research. It holds potteryfragments dating back to the Neolithic Age;bronze swords, jewellery and pottery fromthe Liburnian era; a model of Zadar as it ex-isted in Roman times; and statues of emperorsTiberius and Augustus.

MUSEUM OF CHURCH ARTThe outstanding Museum of Church Art (%211545; Trg Opatice ike bb; adult/student 20/10KN;h10am-12.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun) in theBenedictine monastery opposite the Churchof St Donat offers an impressive display ofreliquaries and religious paintings. Along withthe goldsmiths works in the first hall, noticethe 14th-century painting of the Madonna.She features again in the second hall, where

the most notable works of her are a marblesculpture and Paolo Venezianis painting.On the 2nd floor youll find 15th- and 16th-century sculptures and embroidery, and sixpictures by the 15th-century Venetian painterVittore Carpaccio.

ST GRISOGONUS CHURCHThis church (Crkva Svetog Krevana; Brne Krnarutia;hMass only) is another beautiful structure,

formerly part of a 12th-century Benedictinemonastery that was destroyed by Alliedbombs in 1944. It has a baroque altar con-structed in 1701 and Byzantine frescoes onthe northern wall and in the northern apse;unfortunately the frescoes in the southernapse are poorly preserved.

NATIONAL MUSEUM & ART GALLERYThe museum(Narodni Muzej;%251 851; Poljana Pape

Aleksandra III; admission 10KN;h9am-1pm Mon, Tue, Thu &Fri, 9am-1pm & 5-7pm Wed), in the Benedictine mon-astery of St Krevans Church, is an excellenthistorical repository. It features scale modelsof Zadar from different periods, and old paint-ings and engravings of many coastal cities. Theadmission ticket will also get you into the localArt Gallery(%211 174; Smiljania;h9am-noon & 5-8pmMon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat), which has a changing seriesof exhibitions highlighting local artists.

FRANCISCAN MONASTERY & CHURCHThe Franciscan Monastery & Church(Samostan SvetogFrane;%250 468; Zadarskog mira 1358; admission free;h7.30am-noon & 4.30-6pm) is the oldest Gothicchurch in Dalmatia. It was consecrated

in 1280 and the interior has a number ofRenaissance features such as the lovely Chapelof St Anthony, which contains a 15th-centurywooden crucifix. In the sacristy a memorial tab-let commemorates a seminal event in Zadarshistory: the 1358 treaty under which Venicerelinquished its rights to Dalmatia in favourof the Croatian-Hungarian king, Ludovic. Thelarge Romanesque painted crucifix in the treas-ury behind the sacristy is worth seeing.

SEA ORGAN & SUN SALUTATIONZadars incredible (and the worlds only) SeaOrgan (Morske Orgulje), designed by local architectNikola Bai, is bound to be one of the morememorable sights youll see in Croatia. Setwithin the perforated stone stairs that descendinto the sea is a system of pipes and whistlesthat exudes wistful sighs when the movementof the sea pushes air through it. The effect is

utterly unique and hypnotic and the music isthe loudest when a boat or ferry passes by. Youcan swim from the steps off the promenadeand listen to the sound of the Sea Organ.

Right next to it is the Sun Salutation(PozdravSuncu), another wacky and wonderful Baicreation. Its a 22m circle cut into the pave-ment, filled with 300 multilayered glass platesthat collect the suns energy during the dayand, together with the wave energy that makes

the Sea Organs sound, produce a trippy lightshow from sunset to sunrise thats meant tosimulate the solar system. Thanks to Croatiasmany sunny days, the Sun Salutation is nowcollecting enough energy to power the entireseafront lighting system.

ActivitiesA great way to cross from the old town pe-ninsula onto the mainland is to take the small

wooden boats across the water, experiencingan ancient Zadar tradition, the barkarioli(seeboxed text, p190) in the process.

Theres a swimming areawith diving boards,a small park and a caf on the coastal prom-enade off Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira. Borderedby pine trees and small parks, the promenadetakes you to a beach in front of Hotel Kolovareand then winds on for about a kilometre alongthe coast.

189


7/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA


You can rent a bike from Supernova(%311010; Obala Kneza Branimira 2a;h8.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat)and see Zadar orany of the islands and surrounding nationalparks while pedalling.

ToursAny of the many travel agencies aroundtown can supply information on the touristcruises to Telaica Bay (p203) and the beau-tiful Kornati Islands (p214), which includelunch and a swim in the sea or a salt lake.As this is about the only way to see these101 barren, uninhabited islands, islets andcliffs, its worthwhile if you can spare the

cash. Check with Aquarius Travel Agency (%/fax212 919; www.juresko.hr; Nova Vrata bb;h8am-7pm)or Miatours (%/fax 212 788; www.miatours.hr; VrataSvetog Krevana;h8am-7pm Mon-Sat), or go downto Liburnska Obala from where the excur-sion boats leave.

From Zadar you can also take an excur-sion to Paklenica National Park (p198),Krka National Park (p212) or Plitvice LakesNational Park (p195).

Festivals & EventsJuly to mid-August is a good time to be inZadar. The Zadar Dreams (Zadar Snova; www.zadarsnova.hr) theatrical festival takes over Zadarsparks and squares with offbeat theatrical hap-

penings between 7 and 14 August.The Garden Festival (www.thegardenzadar.com)hasbeen running since 2006 in nearby Petrane,and its fast becoming one of the most beloveddance-music festivals in Croatia. Accordingto the website, it focuses on quality ratherthan big names and takes place in Barbarellasnightclub (p194), where you can swim, sun-bathe or sit in the pine shade when youre notdancing to thumping music. Its held from 4

to 6 July.Try to catch the Full Moon Festival on thenight of the full moon in August. The quaysare lit with torches and candlelight, whilestalls sell local delicacies and the boats liningthe quays become floating fish markets. Itssomething to see.

Other events include Musical Evenings(July)in the Church of St Donat and the ChoralFestival (October).

A BOAT TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE Vesna Mari

The transporting of people on small wooden boats between Zadars two ports is an 850-year-oldtradition thats become somewhat redundant since the completion of the footbridge, but theboatmen, or barkarioli as they are locally known, arent giving up their profession easily. And

they dont have to: it is still the locals favourite form of public transport. Its a short ride some80m in length, lasting only a few minutes and cheap (4KN), and it beats the smelly bus. Morethan anything, its romantic.

Seventy-year-old Karlo Sindiihas been a barkarioloall his life. He is tanned and sports avia-tor sunglasses and a little black sailor hat. I ask if he would tell me about his job and he nodsan affirmative, helping me onto the rocking boat. I place my 4KN onto a little heap of coinsand we sit, waiting for more passengers to get on so that Karlo can start rowing and, hopefully,talking. He looks a little like a rock star, aloof beneath the green-tinted shades. Then he says,Ive been interviewed by all the big global media houses. CNN talked to me all the way backin Yugoslav times. It was their first ever program about Zadar and I was on it. Me and a nun. I

am impressed. I ask him if he thinks theres a future for the barkarioli. Oh yes, he says, thereare two young men lined up to start this summer. What does it take to be a barkariolo? Youvegot to have at least one foreign language, he says. I speak four myself. Foreigners take the boatsometimes and youve got to know how to chat to them. Is the demand for crossing on a boatbig? People still like it though its not as popular as it was when I was younger. Now everyonedrives around. We get to the other side.

As I step off the boat, I notice the wind is up and I ask if they cross in all kinds of weather.He says that if its too windy or rainy they stay put. Its too much risk; you dont want peopletumbling into the water. Plus wed get too wet on the boat all day. But we do work until midnightin the summer; its lovely under the stars. We stop at six in the evening on winter days, though.

But no matter what the season is, if the sea is calm, were here at 6am every day! he says, sittingdown again and grabbing the oars. I thank Karlo and watch him row back to the other side ofthe harbour, feeling as though Ive just tasted a slice of history.

190


8/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Z A D A R R E G I O N Z a d a r

SleepingThere is one small guest house in town and afew private rooms available, but most visitorsare dispatched to the tourist settlement atBorik on the Puntamika bus (every 40 minutes

from the bus station); here there are hotels,a hostel, a camping ground and many sobe(rooms available) signs. Most Borik hotelscater to package tourists, particularly familieswho flock to the all-inclusive family resort,Funimation (right), complete with an aquapark, tennis courts and more. Most are man-aged by the Austria-based Falkensteiner group(www.falkens teiner.com).

The travel agencies listed on p187 find pri-

vate accommodation. Expect to pay about150/200KN per person for a room with ashared/private bathroom. Very little is avail-able in the old town, but you can find somedecent deals in Borik.

Do not expect women advertising sobetoapproach you as you disembark the bus, trainor ferry.

BUDGET

Autocamp Borik(%332 074; per adult low-high 36-53KN,per site 90-135KN;hMay-Oct) Steps away fromBorik Beach, this camping ground is shadedby tall pines and has decent facilities. Its abetter option than Zaton if you want to savourcity pleasures.

Zaton(%280 280; www.zaton.hr; Nin; per adult low-high36-68KN;hMay-Sep)This is a huge campsite de-

velopment on a sandy beach 16km northwestof Zadar in Nin, with a 5000-person capacity.

Its not attractively landscaped the terrain isflat and uninteresting but the facilities aretop notch and there are also apartments andmobile homes to rent. There are eight dailybuses marked Zaton from the bus station(fewer on weekends), which drop you off inZaton village, about 1km from the grounds.

Zadar Youth Hostel (%331 145; [email protected]; ObalaKneza Trpimira 76; per person 13;i)A great optionfor backpackers, with plain but clean rooms.

Some have wooden floors that creak comfort-ingly. Many were renovated in 2006 and arequite modern. The service is friendly and mul-tilingual and Borik Beach is just minutes away.Theres internet access at 5KN for 15 minutes.

Student Hostel(%224 840; Obala Kneza Branimira bb;dm 103KN;hJul & Aug)This student dormitoryturns into a hostel in July and August. Its loca-tion is good right across the footbridge andan easy trudge to the ferries and old town

but do note its limited opening times for trav-ellers. The three-bed rooms are clean, thougha little cheerless.

MIDRANGE

Venera Guest House (%214 098; www.hotel-venera-zd.hr; ime Ljubia 4a; d low-high 300-450KN)Venera also known as the JoviGuest House is thecentres only option. Although the roomsare miniscule, have oversized wardrobes andno numbers on the doors, all have en suitebathrooms, the beds are good and the atmos-phere is pretty relaxed. The price does notinclude breakfast. If you cant reach Gojko,the owner, you can book through Aquarius

Travel Agency (p187).Pansion Albin(%331 137; www.albin.hr; Put Dikla 47;s low-high 324-390KN, d 432-580KN;pas)Youllfind plenty of warmth and hospitality in thisfriendly, family-runpension(guest house). Allthe rooms are different and some have balco-nies. Theres a gorgeous little pool surroundedby greenery and the in-house restaurant isdecent. The beach is just a 15-minute walkaway. Its great value.

oVilla Hre (%337 570; www.villa-hresc.hr; Obala Kneza Trpimira 28; s low-high 550-650KN, d 750-850KN;pas) Zadars loveliest midrangechoice is in a cheery pink building on a bay.The stylish rooms are in pastel colours, thebeds are luxurious dreaming spots, and as youlounge by the swimming pool you can admireviews of the old town. The suites are excellentvalue, some with massive terraces. Its withinwalking distance of Zadars restaurants, sights

and nightlife.Funimation (%206 100; www.falkensteiner.com;Majstora Radovana 7; s low-high 77-177, d 112-234;as) With so many spa offerings at thislarge hotel, your skin will start to resemblea sea creature after youve tried all the steamrooms, saunas and pools let alone the won-ders of the 16 different thalassotherapy treat-ment rooms. The hotel is open year-round forspa lovers, but it really comes into its own in

the summer months when the Falky Landcomplex opens and kids activities start up theres tennis, volleyball, windsurfing and poolmadness. So if youre after a family resort thatcaters to both kids and their (exhausted) parents,Funimation may just be the place for you.

TOP ENDHotel Kolovare (%203 200; www.hotel-kolovare-zadar.t-com.hr; Boe Periia 14; s low-high 550-750KN,

191


9/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA


d 760-1200KN;ps) A renovated old-socialistmammoth, the Kolovare has 230 unexcitingbut comfortable rooms, a swimming pooland a gym. Its near the beach, a 20-minutewalk from town and close to the train and

bus stations.Hotel President (%333 464; www.hotel-president

.hr; Vladana Desnice 16; r per person low-high 125-400;pai) The plushest place in town is also theclassiest in the traditional sense, with cherrywood furniture, gilded details and grown-upsophistication all round. The hotel restaurant,Vivaldi, is adorned with music scores from theFour Seasons. Its very close to the beach andall the rooms have balconies.

oGarden Wing Adriana (%206 637; www.falkensteiner.com; Majstora Radovana 7; s low-high 144-204, d216-312;hmid-MayOct;pas)All the roomsin this gorgeously restored 19th-century villa,which was formerly known as Hotel AdrianaSelect, are termed junior suites and they de-liver on their promise of luxury. Its a super-relaxing place in Borik, with white furniture,rattan details, aromatic candles and tonnes ofspa treatments. Oh, and theres a pool, four ten-

nis courts and a wonderful beach at the endof the verdant garden. The staff are friendlyand discreet.

EatingZalogajnica Ljepotica(%311 288; Obala Kneza Branimira4b; mains from 35KN)The cheapest place in townprepares three to four dishes a day at knock-out prices in a setting that would fit well ina Kaurismki movie you know, a rugged,

lonesome diner with a pot-bellied chef/waiterwho brings you a steaming dish with a som-nolent look on his face. The food is greatand home cooked, and the dishes are usuallysquid-ink risotto, tomato and seafood pasta,plus something meaty.

Trattoria Canzona (%212 081; Stomoria 8; mains40KN)A great little trattoria in the old town,with red-and-white chequered table cloths,friendly waiters and tonnes of locals who love

the menu of daily specials. Try the deliciouspaticada (beef stewed in wine and spices),which comes with juicy gnocchi, and accom-pany it with a crunchy green salad.

Na po ure (%312 004; pire Brusine 8; mains from40KN)From shark to sardines, if it swims thisunpretentious konoba (simple family-runrestaurant) will grill it and serve it up withpotatoes and fresh vegetables. You can alsoget a meanpaticada.

Dva Ribara(%213 445; Blaa Jurjeva 1; mains from 40KN)Though its been refurbished in a minimalist,cool style, away from its former fishermansdiner look, the Two Fishermen still remains anold-school eatery when it comes to the menu.

Theres a wood-fired pizza oven much ap-preciated by the locals and meaty optionsdominate, though there are some fish and pastadishes. Theres a decent wine list, too.

Restaurant Albin(%331 137; www.albin.hr; Put Dikla47; mains 40-100KN)Local people usually head outto Borik when they want to eat out, and thisfish restaurant, on the road to Borik at PansionAlbin, is one of the most popular establish-ments, with a spacious outdoor terrace.

Niko (%337 888; www.hotel-niko.hr; Obala KnezaDomagoja 9; mains from 60KN)A real Zadar insti-tution, Niko is loved for its daily fresh fish(grilled and sprinkled with smooth, aromaticolive oil), the long wine list, and its pasta andseafood dishes. A large terrace overlooks theshimmering Adriatic. Niko is in Puntamika,on the Borik peninsula.oKornat (%254 501; Liburnska Obala 6; mains

from 70KN)This is without a doubt Zadars best

restaurant. Its elegant and spiffy, with woodenfloors and modern furnishings, and the serv-ice is excellent, but its the food thats the realknockout. Theres the smooth Istrian trufflemonkfish, a creamy squid and salmon risotto,and fresh fish (around 350KN per kilo) thatsprepared with simple ingredients to maximumdeliciousness. The house wine, Babi, is fan-tastic, and do leave room for a dessert try thepistachio and caramel cheesecake.

oFoa (%314 421; Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2;mains from 80KN)Foa looks out on the narrowchannel that runs alongside the city walls andtakes its name from it. The restaurant also paystribute to the Foa channel by serving fantasticfish caught in its waters, and the small stoneterrace is one of Zadars most gorgeous placesto eat. The interior is slick and elegant and theservice attentive and discreet. A great find.

SELF-CATERINGIts safe to say that Zadars market (h6am-3pm) is one of Croatias best. If youre stay-ing somewhere you can cook, youre in for areal treat of seasonal, local produce at cheapprices. Spring and early summer see gorgeousbunches of wild asparagus, while summers arecooled with juicy watermelons, cucumbersand bursting tomatoes. Theres also moun-tains of peppery rocket, and the women who

192


10/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA


sell the stuff are keen to bargain. Youll findPag cheese here, too (at around 80KN perhalf kilo), and inside the fish market youll getthe days catch and more. Even if youre notself-catering, check it out just to store somedelicious food memories.

Theres also a supermarket (cnr iroka & SaboraDalmatinske)that keeps long hours.

DrinkingThere are plenty of places to drink in Zadar,from pavement cafs to cool bars, and mostare full at all times in the summer. Dont misstasting the local Maraschino cherry liquor(see boxed text, above).oArsenal (%253 833; www.arsenalzadar.com;

Trg Tri Bunara 1)A renovated shipping warehousenow hosts this brilliant cultural centre, witha large lounge-bar/restaurant/concert hall

in the centre that has a small stage for livemusic and shows. Shops surround the cen-tral space, and people come in and out allday long, with young Zadrians frequentingthe bar in the evenings. Its a great place forbreakfast, too.

Galerija ina(Varoka 2)Just off the main square,inas is an arty hang-out that serves goodcocktails to a trendy crowd. Its electro music allthe way, and a great place to start the night.

Kult Caffe (Stomoria 4)The Kult Caffe drawsa young hip hop, heavy metal, rocknroll,hippy, punk you name it crowd, that hangsout on the shady terrace outside.

Maya Pub(%251 716; Liburnska Obala 6)This is areal chill-out bar, with a hippie-ish decor andquiet electro music in the background. Theresan imposing sculpture of Shiva that keeps aneye on the live concerts or the DJ, depending

on whos got the stage for the night. It servesGuinness and Kilkenny beer, too.Maraschino Bar(%211 250; Obala Kneza Branimira 6)

Sitting by the sport harbour, 100m east of theold townmainland footbridge, and overlook-ing the sea, this is a relatively new bar witha spanking retro interior, cheerful clienteleand friendly service. It serves croissants forbreakfast, and the terrace is a great place toenjoy a coffee in the sun.

Caff Bar Lovre (%212 678; Narodni Trg 1) Agorgeous little caf with a huge terrace onNarodni Trg (which mingles with some ofthe neighbouring cafs terraces), Lovre hasthe advantage of having the remains of the12th-century Church of St Lovre at the back.You can enter and wander around it, before orafter your coffee. Croissants and other pastriesmake it perfect for a central breakfast or breakfrom sightseeing.

WHATS THIS MARASCHINO, THEN?

Youll see its name so often around Zadar and theres no way youll miss the beautiful distillery a major city landmark so youll be forgiven for asking this question. Maraschino, youll be gladto hear, is a very delicious drink, and something all locals will no doubt prompt you to try.

Maraschinos story started with the birth of the Dalmatian sour cherry otherwise known asmaraska brought, some say, from the areas surrounding the Caspian Sea. The maraska is saidto be sweeter, fleshier and more nutritious than any other cherry around, and it took keenly togrowing by the Adriatic. It was originally used as a medicinal liquor and was first bottled byDominican monks in the 16th century, but it soon caught on as a proper tipple and commercialdistillation developed over the following two centuries.

But the real revolution happened in the 18th century, with the collapse of the Venetian republic.Zara (Zadar) became the capital of Dalmatia, and the Austrians, who took over, brought consulsand representatives from all over Europe. The consular representative for Sardinia, GirolamoLuxardo, arrived in Zadar and, with his wife, tasted the maraskaliquor for the first time. Captivated

by its taste, Luxardos wife decided to try and perfect it, and her recipe was so successful thatthe couple established the first Luxardo distillery in 1821 the famous Maraschino building. Thethird generation of Luxardos built a modern distillery, while the original old building, which isopposite the old town, was converted into office space.

During Yugoslav times, the Maraschino business was incorporated into the state, while the onlysurviving Luxardo family member moved his business to Veneto, in Italy. Today, Maraschino is pri-vatised again, reaffirming its role as a major source of local employment. Despite the battering theproduction received during the recent war, there are once again hundreds of thousands of cherrytrees blossoming in Zemunik, near Zadar airport, and the Maraschino tastes better than ever.

193


11/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA


EntertainmentNIGHTCLUBS

oGarden (%450 907; www.thegardenzadar.com;Bedemi Zadarskih Pobuna;hlate May-Oct)One of the rea-sons many of Croatias youngsters rate Zadar as

a really cool place is because it offers nightlifeoptions unlike anywhere else basically, it hasthe Garden. Its owned and run by UB40s pro-ducer Nick Colgan and drummer James Brown,who came to Zadar and liked it so much theydecided to buy this traditional walled garden,install a superior sound system and invite theirDJ friends to enliven the citys nightlife. Theyvenever looked back. In fact, theyve only lookedforward and opened Barbarellas, the Gardens

more isolated and therefore more rowdy sister.Daytimes here are relaxed, with board gamesand lots of lounging on the outdoor beds, whilenight time is when the fun really begins. Dontmiss it if youre in town.oBarbarellas (%450 907; www.thegarden

zadar.com; Punta Radman Put 8, Petrane) Opened inMay 2008, this is a more ambitious and spa-cious project for the Gardens owners, servingas the setting for the Garden Festival (p190)

in July and lots of beach clubbing all throughthe summer. Its basically a 1970s retro struc-ture that has been carefully refurbished andfitted with sound systems, beach bars andplenty of party space. The festivals Argonautboat parties sell out sooner than you can sayBarbarellas. Theres also a hotel adjacent,incase you want to stay awhile.

Gotham(%200 289; Marka Orekovia 1;hclosed Mon)A 20-something crowd comes here for the go-

go dancers, tropical fantasy and 70s nights.

THEATRE & CINEMANational Theatre(%314 552; iroka;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)The box office sells tickets to the culturalprograms advertised on posters outside.

Callegro (%204 900; www.callegro.com; iroka 18;tickets 20-25KN)A brand new miniplex consistingof three cinema screens, Callegro is a favouriteof Zadars film lovers. You can see art-house

films as well as Hollywood blockbusters atfantastically cheap prices in a sleek moderncinema. Films are in the original language,with Croatian subtitles.

ShoppingCallegro (above) is also a shopping centre,housing outlets for Lacoste, Calvin Klein andRalph Lauren, as well as a Croporter(www.cro-a-porter.hr) boutique, which promotes young

Croatian designers. Theres a caf downstairs,too, with tables on iroka.

Getting There & AwayAIR

Zadars airport is about 12km east of the towncentre. The Croatia Airlines bus (20KN) meetsall arrivals. A taxi costs about 175KN.

Croatia Airlines (%250 101; www.croatiaairlines.hr; Poljana Natka Nodila 7;h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat)has daily flights to Zagreb, and servicesinternationally.

Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flies to Zadar fromLondon Stansted and Dublin airport.

BOATOn the harbour, Jadrolinija (%254 800; LiburnskaObala 7)has tickets for all local ferries, or youcan buy ferry tickets from the Jadrolinija stallon the Jadrolinija dock. Buy internationaltickets from Jadroagent (%211 447; [email protected]; Poljana Natka Nodila 4), just insidethe city walls.

For information on boat connections toItaly, see p310.

BUSCroatia Express(%250 502; [email protected]; iroka14) sells tickets to Zagreb, Split and Trieste(Italy), plus many German cities.

The bus station (%211 035; www.liburnija-zadar.hr, in Croatian) is a 10-minute walk from thecentre and has buses to Zagreb (100KNto 140KN, 3 to seven hours, 20 daily),Rijeka (145KN, five hours, six daily), Split

(around 100KN, three hours, eight daily)and Dubrovnik (170KN to 210KN, eighthours, seven daily).

TRAINThe train station (%212 555; www.hznet.hr; AnteStarevia 3) is adjacent to the bus station.There are five daily trains to Zagreb two fast trains (150KN, seven hours) andthree slower ones (134KN, 9 hours) that

change at Knin but the fast bus to Zagrebis quicker.

Getting AroundBuses run frequently from the bus stationto the harbour and Borik. Buses markedPoluotok run to the harbour and thosemarked Puntamika (5) run to Borik. Ticketsare 6KN and you can buy them at any news-stand or from the driver.

194


12/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m Z A D A R R E G I O N A r o u n d Z a d a r

AROUND ZADARUgljan%023The island of Ugljan is easily accessible by boatfrom Zadar, making it a popular getaway for

the locals and a kind of residential suburb forpeople who work in the city. The 50-sq-kmisland is densely populated, housing about7500 people, and it can get crowded on sum-mer weekends. There are few forests but manymacchia(shrubs), some pines and a good dealof farmland with vegetable gardens, olivegroves and vineyards. The eastern coast is themost indented and most developed part of theisland, while the west is relatively deserted.

The port of entry is Preko, directly acrossfrom Zadar, with two small harbours and aferry port. Although theres a town beach, thebest beach is on the little island of Galovac, only80m from the town centre. Small, pretty andwooded, Galovac has a Franciscan monasterydating from the 15th century. If you haveyour own car, you could visit Ugljan village,positioned on an indented bay with a sandybeach, the fishing village of Kaliand the nearby

islet of Oljak, which is covered with pine andcypress trees.

Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr)runs hourly fer-ries between 5.30am and 11pm from Zadar toPreko (17KN, 25 minutes) year-round.

PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK%053Plitvice Lakes National Park lies midway be-tween Zagreb and Zadar. The 19.5 hectares

of wooded hills enclose 16 turquoise lakes,which are linked by a series of waterfalls andcascades. Wooden footbridges follow the lakesand streams over, under and across the rum-bling water for an exhilaratingly damp 18km.In 1979, Unesco proclaimed the Plitvice Lakesa World Heritage site, and the lakes and for-ests are carefully regulated to ensure theircontinued preservation.

The extraordinary natural beauty of the

site merits at least a three-day visit, but youcan experience a lot simply on a day trip fromZadar or Zagreb. Theres no bad time to visit:in the spring the falls are flush with water, insummer the surrounding hills are greener, andin autumn there are fewer visitors and youllbe treated to the changing colours of leaves.

The lake system is divided into the upperand lower lakes. The upper lakes lying ina dolomite valley are the most impressive,

surrounded by dense forests and interlinkedby several gushing waterfalls. The lower lakesare smaller and shallower, surrounded only bysparse underbrush. Most of the water comesfrom the Bijela and Crna (White and Black)

Rivers, which join south of Proansko Lake,but the lakes are also fed by undergroundsprings. In turn, water disappears into theporous limestone at some points only to re-emerge in other places. All the water emptiesinto the Korana River near Sastavci Falls.

The upper lakes are separated by dolomitebarriers, which expand with the mosses andalgae that absorb calcium carbonate as riverwater rushes through the karst. The encrusted

plants grow on top of each other, formingtravertine barriers and creating waterfalls. Thelower lakes were formed by cavities created bythe water of the upper lakes. They undergoa similar process, as travertine is constantlyforming and reforming itself into new combi-nations so that the landscape is ever changing.This unique interaction of water, rock andplant life has continued more or less undis-turbed since the last Ice Age.

The colours of the lakes also change con-stantly. From azure to bright green, deep blueor grey, the colours depend upon the quan-tity of minerals or organisms in the water,whether rain has deposited mud, and theangle of sunlight.

The luxuriant vegetation of the nationalpark is another delight. The northeastern sec-tion of the park is covered with beech forestswhile the rest of it is covered with beech, fir,

spruce and white pine dotted with patchesof whitebeam, hornbeam and flowering ash,which change colour in autumn.

HistoryAfter prehistoric settlements, the first recordedinhabitants in the region were the Thracianswho arrived in the 1st millennium BC, fol-lowed by the Illyrians and then the ubiquitousRomans who visited in 59 BC and stayed for

600 years. Slavs migrated to the area in the 7thcentury and were eventually organised intothe feudal system that dominated the earlyMiddle Ages. The Turks seized power in 1528and when they were driven out 150 years later,the Austrians tried to attract new settlers bymaking it a feudal-free zone. The area becamepart of the Military Frontier (Vojna Krajina)and was settled by Vlachs and Morlachs whofollowed the Serbian Orthodox faith.

195


13/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

Z A D A R R E G I O N P l i t v i c e L a k e s N a t i o n a l P a r k l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

The tourism potential of the lakes wasapparent even as early as 1896, when thefirst hotel was built. A preservation societyfounded in 1893 ensured the protection of thelake environment well into the 20th century.The boundaries of the national park were setin 1951 with a view towards minimising deg-

radation and maximising tourism. Before therecent 1991 war, the lakes were a major touristattraction, but their presence within the Serb-dominated Krajina region meant trouble wasinevitable when former Yugoslavia began tocrack up.

The civil war in former Yugoslavia ac-tually began in Plitvice on 31 March 1991,when rebel Serbs from the Krajina regiontook control of the park headquarters. The

murdered Croatian police officer Josip Jovibecame the first casualty of the ruthless warthat Easter Sunday. Rebel Serbs held thearea for the wars duration, turning hotelsinto barracks and plundering park property.When the Croatian army finally retook thepark in August 1995, they found the natu-

ral beauty intact but the hotels and facilitiescompletely gutted. All has since been repairedand tourists are flocking to one of Croatiasmost wondrous sights.

WildlifeAnimal life flourishes in the unspoiled con-ditions. The stars of the park are bears andwolves, but there are also deer, boar, rabbits,foxes and badgers. There are more than 120

Plitvica

Hotel

HotelJezero

Main EntranceLika Kua

SecondaryEntrance(VelikaPoljana)

HotelBellevue

Plitvice

LakeKozjak

Gradinsko

Milanovac Lake

Gavanovac Lake

Kaluerovac Lake

Lake

CiginovacLake

Okrugljak Lake

GalovacLake

Plitvica Falls

Sastavci Falls

Velike Falls

Trnine Falls

Novakovia Falls

Milanovaki Falls

Rjeica

E71

0.5 miles1 km00

Plitvica

Hotel

HotelJezero

Main EntranceLika Kua

SecondaryEntrance(VelikaPoljana)

HotelBellevue

Plitvice

LakeKozjak

Gradinsko

Milanovac Lake

Gavanovac Lake

Kaluerovac Lake

Lake

CiginovacLake

Okrugljak Lake

GalovacLake

Plitvica Falls

Sastavci Falls

Velike Falls

Trnine Falls

Novakovia Falls

Milanovaki Falls

Rjeica

E71

0.5 miles1 km00

Hercegovina)

(65km)To Zadar

Zagreb (70km); KarlovacTo Hotel Grabovac (2km);

RijekaTo Senj;

(Bosnia &To Biha

Korana

Rastovaca

SeloPetrovo

Liko

Homoljac

KapelaKorenica

Prijeboj

Jezerce

LjeskovacPlitviki-

Rudopolje

Kuselj

Uvalaorkova

Poljanak

Vaganac

GradDrenik

Vrelo

Entrance

GroundKorana Camping

Entrance

Secondary

Main

(979m)

(940m)

(1048m)

(835m)Paljevina

(1071m)Crni vrh

(1279m)Seliki vrh

(1252m)

(1020m)

(1044m)Bijeli vrh

(1113m)Prlinka

(1045m)

(819m)

LakeKozjak

Lake

Proansko

Spring

SpringSpring

rna

CjelaBi

a

ic

je

R

Korenika

Plitvica

Korana

See Enlargement

E71

E71

E71

52

E59

E761

PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK 0 4 km0 2 miles

196


14/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Z A D A R R E G I O N P l i t v i c e L a k e s N a t i o n a l P a r k

different species of bird such as hawks, owls,cuckoos, thrushes, starlings, kingfishers, wildducks and herons. You might occasionally seeblack storks and ospreys, and flocks of but-terflies flutter throughout the park.

Orientation & InformationThe tourist office (%751 015; www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr; adult/student Apr-Oct 110/50KN, Nov-Mar 70/35KN;h7am-8pm)has its main entrance on PlitvikaJezera, and a secondary entrance at VelikaPoljana, near the hotels. At either entranceyou can buy tickets and pick up brochuresand a map to walk you around the lakes. Theadmission ticket includes the boats and buses

you need to see the lakes. An easy way tosee them is to take a bus to Okrugljak Lakeat the top and then walk down. There arewell-marked trails throughout the park and asystem of wooden walkways that allows you toappreciate the beauty of the landscape withoutdisturbing the environment.

Try to get to the lakes before 8am, especiallyin summer, to avoid the hordes.

The post office is near the hotels and theres

an ATM near Hotel Bellevue. Luggage can beleft at the tourist information centre at theparks main entrance or at one of the hotels.

SightsThe lower lakes string out from the main en-trance and are rich in forests, grottoes andsteep cliffs. Novakovia Fallsis nearest the en-trance and is followed by Kaluerovac Lake,near two caves the Blue Cave and upljara.

Next is Gavanovac Lake with towering water-falls and last is Milanovac Lake, notable forcolours that are variously sky-blue, azure oremerald green.

Kozjak Lakeis the largest lake and forms aboundary between the upper and lower lakes.Three kilometres long, the lake is surroundedby steep, forested slopes and contains a smalloval island, composed of travertine. Past thehotels, youll see Gradinsko Lakebordered by

reeds that often harbour nesting wild ducks.A series of cascades links Gradinsko to GalovacLake, considered the most beautiful lake of all.An abundance of water has formed a series ofponds and falls. A set of concrete stairs overthe falls, constructed long ago, has eventu-ally been covered by travertine, forming evenmore falls in a spectacular panorama. Severalsmaller lakes are topped by the larger OkrugljakLake, supplied by two powerful waterfalls.

Continuing upwards youll come to CiginovacLake and finally Proansko Lake, surroundedby thick forests.

Sleeping

The Zagreb buses drop you off just outside thecamping ground while the hotels are clusteredon Velika Poljana overlooking Kozjak Lake.There are many sobesigns along the road fromKorana village to the national park. The tour-ist office in the park or its branch in Zagrebcan refer you to rooms in nearby villages,including Rastovaa, about 400m from theentrance. Expect to pay 200KN to 225KN fora double room.

All of the following hotels are in the oldYugo-style (think largeish, with lots of brownsand beiges, and retro wood and glass), thougha couple have been renovated and are of apretty good standard. You can book all ofthem at www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr.

Korana Camping Ground(%751 015; per adult all incl9;hMay-Oct)This large, well-equipped auto-camp is about 6km north of the main entranceon the main road to Zagreb.

Hotel Grabovac(%751 999; s low-high 40-52, d 54-70)About 10km north of the entrance on the roadto Zagreb, this is a large, modern hotel withbland but functional rooms.

Hotel Bellevue(%751 700; Velika Poljana; s low-high40-55, d 54-74)The rooms are small and a bitsad at this large hotel; you get little in theway of decoration, and the quilts and cur-tains are faded, but rooms do have en suitesand the beds are firm. Its fine if everywhere

else is full.Hotel Plitvice(%751 100; Velika Poljana; s low-high50-72, d 65-96;p) A comfortable modernhotel with spacious, well-equipped rooms,each with TV, phone and minibar. There aremore expensive rooms that are larger andhave views.

Hotel Jezero (%751 400; [email protected]; Velika Poljana; s low-high 61-83, d 86-118;ps)This is by far the most comfortable and best-

appointed hotel in the park, though its by nomeans a boutique delight. Theres a sauna andswimming pool.

EatingTheres an inexpensive self-service cafeterianext to the tourist office, at the second en-trance, as well as a caf that sells sandwiches,pastries and roast chicken, and a minimarketfor picnic supplies.

197


15/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

Z A D A R R E G I O N P a k l e n i c a N a t i o n a l P a r k l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

Lika Kua(%751 024; mains from 55KN)Just acrossfrom the main entrance, this sprawling placeis usually crowded with tourists who comefor the local sausages and roast-meat dishes.Vegetarians will appreciate the uve(stew of

rice, carrots, tomatoes, peppers and onions),as well as the fine local cheese.

Getting There & AwayThe ZagrebZadar buses that dont use thenew motorway road (ie the ones that drivebetween Zagreb and Zadar in over threehours) stop at Plitvice (check www.akz.hrfor more details). The journey takes threehours from Zadar (80KN) and 2 hours from

Zagreb (60KN).

PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK%023Rising high above the Adriatic, the stark peaksof the Velebit Massif stretch for 145km in adramatic landscape of rock and sea. PaklenicaNational Park covers 36 sq km of the VelebitRange, extending in a rough circle from thepark entrance in the village of Marasovii.

For everyone from Sunday strollers to rockclimbers and hikers, the park offers a wealth ofopportunities to trek across steep gorges, crawlup slabs of stone, or meander along shadypaths next to a rushing stream. The panoramainside the park is ever changing and muchgreener than you would think when lookingat the chalky mountains from the sea.

The national park circles around two deepgorges, Velika Paklenica (Great Paklenica)

and Mala Paklenica (Small Paklenica), whichscar the mountain range like hatchet marks,with cliffs over 400m high. The dry limestonekarst that forms the Velebit Range is highlyabsorbent, but several springs in the parksupper reaches provide a continuous sourceof water, which explains the unusually lush

vegetation. About half the park is coveredwith forests, mostly beech and pine followedby white oak and varieties of hornbeam. The

vegetation changes as you ascend, as does theclimate, which progresses from Mediterraneanto continental to subalpine. The lower regions,especially those with a southern exposure,can be fiercely hot in the summer, while thebura (cold northeasterly wind) that whipsthrough the range in winter brings rain andsudden storms.

Animal life is scarce but you may seeEgyptian vultures, golden eagles, striped eagles

and peregrine falcons, which nest on the cliffsof the two gorges. If youve forgotten whatthey look like, theres an illustrated sign at theparks entrance. Rumour has it that bears andwolves live in the parks upper regions, but

your chances of seeing any are minuscule.The best time to visit the park is in May,June or September. In late spring the park isgreenest, the streams become torrents andthere are few other visitors. In July and Augustyoull still find the trails uncrowded, since mostpeople come to the region for the sun and sea,but it might be too hot to hike comfortably.In September the weather is mild during theday and cool at night, making it perfect hiking

weather, plus you can still finish off a day onthe trails with a refreshing swim.

OrientationThe best base for exploring the park is Starigrad(p200). It is the site of the national park officeand has the most possibilities for restaurantsand accommodation. Its also near the en-trance to Velika Paklenica, which offers themost varied walks and climbs. The entrance to

the national park is in the village of Marasovii,which is about 2km southeast of Starigrad.The road to the entrance is not particularlyinteresting, so a lot of people drive to the carpark past the reception area. The entranceto Mala Paklenica is on the far side of Seline

village, about 2.5km southeast of Starigrad onthe road to Zadar. Follow the road oppositeSt Marks (Sveti Marko) church towards thecanyon. Trails throughout the park are marked

by small white and red waymarkers.InformationThe Paklenica National Park office (%/fax 369202; www.paklenica.hr; Starigrad; adult/student 40/20KNApr-Oct, 30/20KN Nov-Mar;hoffice 8am-3pm Mon-FriApr-Oct, park daily 6am-8.30pm year-round)sells bookletsand maps, and is in charge of maintaining thepark. The Paklenica National Parkguide givesan excellent overview of the park and suggests

various walks. Rock climbers should talk toone of the guides employed by the park ad-ministration who can provide detailed adviceon climbing routes and their difficulty.

The Croatian Mountaineering Association(%01-48 24 142; www.plsavez.hr; Kozarieva 22, 10000Zagreb) also has up-to-date information andpublishes a useful map of the park with clearlymarked routes. Its on sale at larger bookstoresin Zagreb.

198


16/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m Z A D A R R E G I O N P a k l e n i c a N a t i o n a l P a r k

ActivitiesHIKINGMost hikes in the park are one-day affairsfrom base camp at Starigrad or Seline, orfrom one of the mountain huts.

Mala Paklenica to Velika PaklenicaMala Paklenica is smaller and less visited thanVelika Paklenica. The karst formations are out-standing in Mala Paklenica, but the trail canget slippery in spring and autumn, and youmay have to cross Mala Paklenica stream a fewtimes. You follow the stream through rocksand boulders for the first four hours or so andthen zigzag uphill to about 680m. Take theleft-hand path marked Starigrad and Jurline.

Youll pass through fields and pastures beforedescending to a rocky gully that leads to thevalley floor. Youll arrive at Velika Paklenica,enjoy a marvellous view and then follow thepath through the gorge with Ania Kuk(712m)on your left down to the valley floor.

Starigrad to Planinarski DomImmediately after the parks entrance youllreach the floor of Velika Paklenica gorge, with

grey-stone massifs looming on either side.In July and August, youre sure to find rockclimbers making their way up the cliffs. About200m up from the car park on the left youllenter tunnels (admission free;hSun Jul & Aug)thatcontain well-lit, neat halls and rooms carved

out of the rock by the federal Yugoslav armybefore the 1990s war.When you pass a rock fall with a stream

on your right youll be at Ania Luka, a green,semicircular plateau. In another kilometre orso theres a turn-off to the cave of Manita Pe(admission 10KN;h10am-1pm Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm Wed& Sat Jun & Sep). Take the steps down from theantehall to the centre of the cave, which has awealth of stalagmites and stalactites enhanced

by strategically placed lighting. The area is40m long and reaches a height of 32m. Itsabout a two-hour walk from the car park andmust be visited with a guide.

From the cave you can follow the trail toVidakov Kuk, which takes 1 hours. The ascentup the 866m peak is fairly rugged, but on aclear day youll be rewarded with an unfor-gettable view over the sea to Pag. You cancontinue on an easy trail to Ramiiand then

(159km)To Rijeka

(45km)To Zadar

le

nn

ahC

iks

tibeleV

Sklonite

LukaAnia

Lugarnica

Ramii Jurline

(Park Entrance)Marasovii

KneeviiBucii

Jukii

Seline

Starigrad

Milovac KojiiPoratLaen

Kozjaa

ibuljinaTribanj-

Dom Paklenica

Ivine Vodice

AlanHotel

Planinarski

(712m)Ania Kuk

(914m)Martinovo Marilo

aro

g

av

osar

aM

(1757m)Vaganski vrh

(866m)Vidakov Kuk

ag

ar

d

ak

sd

argoksalV

evtsaL

aci

n

el

k

a

P

ala

M

ac

ine

lka

Pa

kil

eV

(621m)uk

(1009m)Komi

(1751m)Sveto brdo

(1000m)Jablanua

(1237m)Kr

(961m)Kuk od Rujice

(1709m)Malovan

(1741m)Babin vrh

(1702m)Zoraniec vrh

agarda

huS

rabar

G

ka

j

nr

i

v

Z

canij

oB

anajlopaveorU

(1638m)Badanj

(1493m)emerac

(1432m)Cunj

(1632m)Vierujna

(552m)Pogled

(889m)ikia

(418m)Griva

(330m)Adia vrh

(832m)ebinac

(970m)Zvirjak

(1040m)

MoiloMalo

Veliko Moilo

Manita Pe

(1394m)Buljma Pass

ica

kl

en

Pa V

elika

ni

ca

le

Pak

Mala

Kozja

ca

RajnaPaklenicaCamping

PinusCamping

E65

D8

E65 D8

PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK 0 2 km0 1 mile

199


17/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

Z A D A R R E G I O N S t a r i g r a d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

head east to the main trail up to the shelter,Planinarski Dom Paklenica (right).

You can also bypass the Manita Pedetourand continue up to the game wardens hut inthe Lugarnicaarea (about two hours walk from

the car park), which is open daily from June toSeptember. You can buy snacks and drinks inthe hut before continuing on up to PlaninarskiDom Paklenica. Youll pass beech and pineforests before coming to the shelter.

In another route to the hut, take the rightpath after Ania Luka past the little farm-house at Jurline. The left fork leads to theblack-pine forests of Malo Moilo, but youcan also continue straight ahead to Veliko

Moiloand rest beside a spring of drinkablewater (three hours from the car park). Fromhere you can take the right fork to the IvineVodice hut (right), or at Martinovo Marilo(914m) you can take the left path along thesouthern slope of the upper Velika Paklenicavalley, following the Velika Paklenica River toPlaninarski Dom Paklenica (about 1 hoursfrom Veliko Moilo).

Upper VelebitFrom Planinarski Dom Paklenica youll eas-ily reach any of the Velebit peaks in a day,but youd need about a week to explore allof them. The highest point in the VelebitRange is Vaganski vrh(1757m). From the flat,grassy top you have a view of up to 150kminland over the Velebit peaks on a clear day.It may be a long, hard day (depending onyour fitness level), but it can be reached

with enough time to return to the shelterby nightfall.Another popular destination is Babin vrh

(Grandmothers Peak; 1741m). Follow thetrail with the Brezimenjaa stream on theleft to the pass of Buljma (1394m) and thencontinue to Marasova gora through decidu-ous forest. Theres a small lake at the foot ofBabin vrh that never dries up (but the waterhas been polluted by sheep).

Its also possible to reach all the peaksalong the Velebit ridge from Mala Paklenica,but make sure you have survival equipment,a map and the assurance that both huts areopen. Past Sveti Jakov in Mala Paklenicatake the right path to the Ivine Vodice hut.Marked trails lead past Sveto brdo (1751m),Malovan (1709m), Vaganski vrh and Babin

vrh before descending to the PlaninarskiDom Paklenica shelter.

ROCK CLIMBINGThe national park offers a tremendous va-riety of rock-climbing routes from begin-ners level to borderline suicidal. The firm,occasionally sharp limestone offers graded

climbs, including 72 short sports routes and250 longer routes. Youll see the beginnersroutes at the beginning of the park with cliffsreaching about 40m, but the best and mostadvanced climbing is on Ania Kuk, whichoffers over 100 routes up to a maximum of350m. Nearly all routes are well equipped withspits and pitons, except for the appropriatelynamed Psycho Killer route.

The most popular climbs here are Mosoraki

(350m), Velebitaki (350m) and Klin (300m).Spring is the best climbing season as summerscan be quite warm and winters too windy. Arescue service is also available.

SleepingIvine Vodice (Sklonite;hdaily Jun-Sep, Sat & Sun Oct-May)East of Planinarski Dom Paklenica, thishut has no beds or running water, but can host10 people with sleeping bags. Its free and its

not necessary to reserve in advance.Planinarski Dom Paklenica (Mountain Lodge Paklenica;%213 792; dm 65KN;hdaily Jun-Sep, Sat & Sun Oct-May)This is the most convenient mountain hut.Theres no hot water or electricity, but you canreach the highest peaks of Velebit from here.It has 45 beds in four rooms; a sleeping bag isadvisable since the lodge provides blankets butno sheets. Reservations are recommended forweekends from June to September.

Getting There & AwayThe best way to get to Paklenica (unlessyoure driving, that is) is to get on one of theRijekaZadar buses (see www.autotrans.hr,in Croatian), all of which stop at Starigrad(28KN, 45 minutes from Zadar, around fourdaily). The best place to get off the bus is atHotel Alan.

STARIGRAD%023 / pop 1160Starigrad is on either side of the main coastalroad from Rijeka to Zadar, and is the best basefor exploring Paklenica National Park (p198).Its also referred to as Starigrad-Paklenica, todifferentiate it from another Starigrad nearSenj (which has nothing to do with the nationalpark). All buses from Rijeka or Zadar stop infront of Hotel Alan and in the centre of town.

200


18/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D U G I O T O K

The tourist office (%/fax 369 255; www.rivijera-paklenica.hr;h8am-9pm Jul & Aug, to 2pm Mon-SatSep-Jun) is in the town centre on the main roadacross from the small harbour. HVB SplitskaBanka is between the tourist office and Hotel

Alan. It has an ATM.

Sleeping & EatingAlthough camping is not permitted in thenational park, there are numerous campinggrounds in and around Starigrad. In additionto the larger camping grounds listed here,there are small, private camping groundsstationed along the main road leading intoand out of town. The tourist office can putyou in touch with them. Starigrad also offersa few hotels.

Private accommodation is abundant inand around Starigrad. Although no agencyofficially finds accommodation, the touristoffice makes it its business to connect peo-ple looking for rooms or apartments withthe many residents offering them. Pricesrange from 150KN to 250KN for a doubleand 275KN to 400KN for a studio. Breakfast

is another 18KN to 30KN. Full board andlarger apartments are also available. You canfind accommodation for yourself by walkingalong the main road and checking out themany sobesigns.

Camping Pinus(%658 652; www.camping-pinus.com;Dr Franje Tumana bb; per adult low-high 2.80-4.50;hApr-Oct)Around 3km out of town on the road toRijeka, this is a great place for relaxing inbetween hikes and expeditions into Paklenica.

Swimming is off rocky coves. Its signposted,so if youre using public transport, try askingthe driver to drop you off at the entrance.

Camping Paklenica (%209 062; www.paklenica.hr; Dr Franje Tumana bb; per adult low-high 30-40KN;hApr-Oct)Next to Hotel Alan, this is one ofthe largest camping grounds. It overlooksa pebble beach only 50m from the roadleading to the national parks entrance.Reservations are highly recommended dur-

ing the summer season.Rajna (%369 130; www.hotel-rajna.com; Dr Franje

Tumana 105; s low-high 277-297KN, d 307-347KN;ai)The closest hotel to the park entrance is afavourite meeting spot for climbers and hikers(and those needing a much-deserved break).Its warm, homely and well maintained; thefood is good as well.

Hotel Vicko(%/fax 369 304; www.hotel-vicko.hr; JoseDokoze bb; s low-high 42-75, d 56-100;pai ) A

nice, comfortable hotel with bright rooms,some of which have balconies. Its only 50mfrom the beach and its family friendly (witha kiddies playground).

Hotel Alan (%209 050; www.bluesunhotels.com;

Dr Franje Tumana 14; s low-high 82-103, d 128-166;hmid-Marmid-Nov; pas) Part of theCroatia-wide chain Bluesun Hotels, HotelAlan sports modern rooms with views overthe sea or the mountains. Theres also an out-door pool, tennis courts, a wellness centre andmany other comforts to relax you after youvewalked around Paklenica all day. Full boardis available in the high season.

Getting There & AwayStarigrad is about 51km from Zadar and165km from Rijeka. All buses between thesecities stop in town (www.autotrans.hr, inCroatian; 28KN, 45 minutes from Zadar,around four daily). Buses stop outside HotelAlan and in the centre of town.

DUGI OTOK%023 / pop 1800Dugi Otok is all about natural, unspoiltbeauty, so if youre seeking a peaceful, relax-ing holiday, youll find your paradise here. Donote that there is a brief high season in thefirst three weeks of August, when Italian va-cationers come over on the ferry from Anconaor on private vessels, but before and after that,all is quiet for another year. The cluster of

small islands on Telaica Bay nature park is amust-see, while the nearby saltwater Lake Mir(Peace), sandy Sakarun Bay and a panoramicdrive along the rocky, indented coast are realdelights. All youll be able to do here is swim,dive and enjoy the spectacular scenery itsa bit like Mljet Island (p277).

The name Dugi Otok means long island.Stretching northwest to southeast, the islandis 43km long and 4km wide. The southeastern

coast is marked by steep hills and cliffs, whilethe northern half is cultivated with vineyards,orchards and sheep pastures. In between is aseries of karstic hills rising to 338m at VelaStraa, the islands highest point.

Most people base themselves in either Salion the southeastern coast or Boava on thenortheastern coast. Sali has more oppor-tunities for private accommodation, whileBoava offers more of a resort experience.

201


19/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

D U G I O T O K S a l i l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

Roughly in the middle is Brbinj, the mainferry stop.

HistoryRuins on the island reveal early settlement by

Illyrians, Romans and then early Christians,but the island was first documented in themid-10th century. It later became the prop-erty of the monasteries of Zadar. Settlementexpanded with the 16th-century Turkish inva-sions, which prompted residents of Zadar andneighbouring towns to flee to the island.

Dugi Otoks fortunes have largely beenlinked with Zadar as it changed hands be-tween Venetians, Austrians and the French,

but when northern Dalmatia was handedover to Mussolini the island stayed withinCroatia. Old-timers still recall the hardshipsthey endured when the nearest medical andadministrative centre was in ibenik, a long,hard boat ride along the coast.

Economic development of the island hasalways been hampered by the lack of anyfreshwater supply drinking water must becollected from rainwater or, in the dry sum-

mers, brought over by boat from Zadar. As onmany Dalmatian islands, the population hasdrifted away over the last few decades, leavinga few hardy souls to brave the dry summersand bura-chilled winters.

Getting There & AwayJadrolinija(www.jadrolinija.hr)has daily ferries allyear from Zadar to Brbinj (24KN, 1 hours,9am, 12.30pm, 4.30pm and 8pm), Zaglav and

Sali (18KN, 45 minutes to 1 hours, 5.30am,10am, 3.30pm and 8pm).

Getting AroundThere is little public bus transport throughoutthe island, only a weekly bus taking Boava

villagers to Sali and back.If youre entering the island at Brbinj without

your own transport, you may have little choicebut to head to Boava. There are no buses be-

tween Brbinj and Sali, but buses to Boava fromBrbinj (14km) meet all ferries except the onefrom Ancona that docks at 6am on Sunday.

SALIpop 1190As the islands largest town and port, Sali isa positive metropolis when compared withthe rest of the towns and villages scatteredaround Dugi Otok. Named after the salt

works that employed villagers during themedieval period, the town has a rumpled,lived-in look that is comfortable and low-key.Sali maintains its relaxed appeal despite theyachts and small passenger boats that dock

in town during summer on their way to andfrom Telaica Bay and the Kornati Islands.Although the town is tantalisingly close tothese natural wonders, youll need to join atour or rent your own boat to visit them.

Orientation & InformationThe town centres on the port on Porat Bay,where youll find restaurants, cafs and offices.West of the town centre is sparkling aica

Bay, tucked between two hills with swimmingcoves. From the foot of the port, a path andstairs lead to the Upper Town, surrounded bysmall vineyards and fields.

The tourist office(%/fax 377 094; www.dugiotok.hr;Obala Kralja Tomislava;h8am-10pm Jul & Aug, to noon Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) is the source of all information aboutSali. It finds private accommodation, booksexcursions and distributes the few brochuresand maps available.

There is no bank but there is an ATM onthe harbour and you can change money or getcash on your MasterCard or Diners Club cardat the post office (Obala Petra Lorinija;h8am-2pm &5-8pm Mon-Sat).

Sights & ActivitiesSightseeing within the town is limited, butthere is the interesting St Marys Church (CrkvaSvete Marije;%377 041; Svete Marije;hMass only), built

in the 15th century on the site of an earlierchurch. It is especially notable for the woodenaltar and several Renaissance paintings.

The towns proximity to the underwatermarine park at the Kornati Islands makes itan excellent base for diving. Hotel Sali has adive shop(%377 079; www.dive-kroatien.de) that runscourses and dive trips around Dugi Otok andto the Kornati Islands.

Diving in the Kornati Islands is marked by

steep drop-offs and numerous caves becauseof the islands position facing the open sea.There are also possibilities for cave divingonthe northern side of Dugi Otok; the cavesare relatively shallow and large, making themsuitable for beginners.

The tourist office can book you on boat tripsthat include a leisurely tour of Telaica Bayand a stop on one of the Kornati Islands forabout 350KN.

202


20/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D U G I O T O K T e l a i c a B a y

Festivals & EventsThe weekend before the Assumption (15August), the island hosts the Saljske UanceFestival, which draws visitors from the entireregion. Highlights are the donkey races and

the candlelight procession of boats aroundthe harbour. Men and women don tradi-tional costumes, play instruments devisedfrom cow horns and perform traditional

village dances.

SleepingThere are no camping grounds on the island.Private accommodation is reasonable in Sali,especially out of the high season, and the tour-

ist office can connect you with some wonder-ful, out-of-the-way places, including a houseon its own little island. In the high seasonyou can expect to find a room for 180KNto 220KN, usually with a shared bathroom.The price is based on double occupancy, so ifyoure travelling solo you may have to pay theprice of a double. In the off season you havea lot more bargaining power and may be ableto push the price down by 20% to 30%. Check

out www.sali-dugiotok.com (in Croatian) forapartment referrals.A fully equipped studio runs from 280KN

to 300KN and a two-room apartment is pricedat 385KN. All prices are based on a three-night minimum stay with a 30% surcharge forfewer nights. The surcharge is usually waivedin the off-season.

If youre visiting in summer, it would bea wise idea to ask the proprietor if there are

any restrictions placed on the use of water.There also might be an excess water charge.But even if nothing is spelled out, the chancesare that long, luxurious showers will notbe appreciated.

Hotel Sali (%377 049; www.hotel-sali.hr; s low-high31-45, d 46-74;hApr-Nov;a) This hotel is welllocated, in excellent condition and offers goodvalue for money. It overlooks swimming covesand is painted in white and marine blue. All

rooms have modern bathrooms, satellite TVand balconies, many with views over the sea.The hotel restaurant is also very good.

EatingThere are a few restaurants along Obala KraljaTomislava. Theres also a supermarket locatednear the Jadrolinija dock.

Grill Tamaris(%377 377; mains from 35KN;hApr-Oct)This is the best restaurant on the street. It

offers spaghetti with mixed seafood and freshlygrilled shrimp and fish at reasonable prices.

Bife Boac(%377 322; mains from 35KN)Offeringa similar menu to Grill Tamaris, the food hereis not bad and you can eat outdoors on a

shaded terrace.

TELAICA BAYThe southeastern tip of Dugi Otok is splitin two by the deeply indented Telaica Bay,dotted with five small islands and five eventinier islets. In fact, the 8200m-long baycontains five smaller bays, which form anindented coastline of 28km and one of thelargest and most beautiful natural harbours

in the Adriatic.The Kornati Islands (p214) extend nearly to

the edge of Telaica Bay and the topographyof the two island groups is identical starkwhite limestone with patches of brush. Thetip of the western side of the island faces thesea where the wind and waves have carvedout sheer cliffs dropping 166m. There are notowns, settlements or roads on this part ofDugi Otok, only a couple of restaurants on Mir

Baycatering to the boaters who spend days oreven weeks cruising the islands.Next to Mir Bay is the saltwater Mir Lake, fed

by underground channels that run throughthe limestone to the sea. The lake, which isclear but with a muddy bottom, is surroundedby pine forests and the water is much warmerthan the sea. Like most mud in unusual placesits supposed to be very good for you, curingailments and keeping you young.

BOAVApop 115Boava is an old town on a harbour that hassprouted a number of comfortable hotels andguest houses. The town is overgrown withlush, flowering trees and there are lovely shadypaths along the coast. The harbour has manyopportunities for swimming and strolling onpine-shaded paths.

If you arrive by bus, walk downhill from thebus stop to the tiny town centre where youllfind the tourist office (%/fax 377 607; [email protected];h8am-noon & 6-8pm Jun-Sep). It can arrange bike, scooter and car rentaland can find you private accommodation(150/100KN with/without private facilities).

Veli Rat is a village on the northwesternpoint of the island on scenic una Bay, about6km northwest of Boava. Although the area is

203


21/32

NORTHERN

DALM

ATIA

PA G I S L A N D H i s t o r y l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

lovely, theres no transport. Unless you comewith your own wheels, youll be relegated tohitching, walking or paying a resident to driveyou out there.

The Boava Hotel complex (%291 291; www.hoteli

-bozava.hr) includes the three-starHotel Lavanda(low-high season room per person 31 to 85)and Hotel Agava (35 to 108), and the luxu-rious four-star Hotel Maxim (45 to 82). Allrooms are modern with satellite TV, refrigera-tors, telephones and balconies overlooking thesea, though the Maxim, most recently doneup, boasts a more swanky feeling. Youll haveaccess to a sauna, a gym and massage services,along with easy access to the sea.

PAG ISLANDPag is like something youd find in a 1950sItalian film, perfect for a broody B&WAntonioni set its barren, rocky, sepiacoloured, with vast empty landscapesstretching across the horizon. The Adriaticis steel-coloured around it, and when the

sky is stormy its the most dramatic-look-ing place in the whole of Croatia. Basically,its gorgeous. Pag Town has unique architec-ture thats as stern and basic as the islandsappearance. The great 15th-century archi-tect, Juraj Dalmatinac, designed neat streetsand a stunning, blindingly white marbletown square.

The island has been known for its distinctproduce and culture for centuries. Islanders

farm the miserly soil and produce the decentdomestic white wine, utica. The tough localsheep graze on herbs and salty grass, lendingtheir milk a distinctive flavour and produc-ing paki sir (Pag cheese soaked in oliveoil and aged in stone; see p206), a prizedspeciality of Croatian cuisine. Intricate Paglace is famed and framed on many a Croatswall. But modernity is reaching Pag too: asis often the case with isolated spots, its be-

come known as a great party location, andZre beach, a few kilometres from Novalja,is getting a reputation as the Croatian Ibiza,which, depending on your taste, is either agood or bad thing.

HistoryThe island was inhabited by the Illyriansbefore falling to the Romans in the 1st cen-tury BC. The Romans constructed forts and

aqueducts. The Slavs settled around Novaljain the 7th century AD and began buildingchurches and basilicas. In the 11th centurya new settlement called Stari Grad emergedin the south of the island, 2km south of to-

days Pag, near the salt works that becamethe foundation of the islands economy. Thenext centuries were turbulent for the islandas it competed with Zadar and Rab over thesalt trade. Zadar launched brutal attacks onthe island in the 13th and 14th centuries,but in 1409 it was sold to Venice along withZadar and the rest of Dalmatia.

Orientation

The 63km karstic island is a strange moon-scape defined by two mountain ridges,patches of shrubs and a dozen or so villagesand hamlets. There are peaceful coves andbays for swimming in around the main townsof Pag and Novalja, as well as the smaller set-tlements of imuni, Mandre and Strako onthe southwestern coast, but the island is neveroverrun by tourists. Pag Town is roughly inthe centre of the island on the southeastern

coast of the large Pag Bay (Paki Zaljev), whileNovalja is 20km northwest on a small cove.The island is linked to the mainland by PagBridge in the southeast.

Getting There & AwayBOATTheres a catamaran service running fromRijeka to Novalja (40KN, two hours) thatpasses through Rab (35KN, 50 minutes); it op-

erates daily in summer and three times weeklyfrom October to May. If youre travelling upthe coast by car, note that there are regular carferries (12KN) from igljen on the northeastcoast to Prizna on the mainland, which runroughly hourly in winter and nonstop fromJune to September.

BUSThere are three buses a day between Pag and

Zadar with Antonio Tours (www.antoniotours.hr) .Buses leave Zadar for Pag (39KN, one hour)at 10.15am, 2pm and 8pm, and go back toZadar from Pag Town at 6.20am, 12.20pmand 6.20pm. They leave Novalja at 5.50am,11.50am and 5.50pm. From Pag Town twobuses a day go to Rijeka (100KN, three hours,5am and noon) from Monday to Saturday andone on Sunday, passing Novalja on the way;one bus a day goes to Split (100KN, two hours,

204


22/32

NORTHERNDALM

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m PA G I S L A N D P a g T o w n

2pm); and there are two daily buses to Zagreb(100KN, three hours, 5am and 8am).

Getting AroundThere are six buses a day that make the 30-

minute trip between Pag Town and Novalja(20KN, 5am, 11.15am, noon, 3pm, 6pmand 9pm).

Pags flat landscape makes bike riding abreeze. Rent bikes fromJadranka (%098 306 602)in Pag Town or

Documents

Croatia 5 Northern Dalmatia