Critical Analysis: Fashion Constructed Image Group Six

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    FashionConstructedImage

    RPHC4004

    Summa%veAssessment

    Group6

    MollyFarmerConorGalloway

    ChrissieKirk

    GemmaNorton

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    EarlyConcept

    andOriginalAims

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    ORIGINALAIMS

    Focusonanorganiccrea%veprocessandcollabora%onthatwillencourageanewpercep%onoffashion.

    Conceptualexperimenta%onwithnewformsoffashionrepresenta%onwithanaimtopossiblyproduceafashionfilmtoaccompanythes%lls.

    Emphasisontheatricality,abstrac%onandtheavant-garde.Themergeofartwithfashion.

    Theproduc%onofimagerythatcommentsonapar%cularnewsorculturestorycurrentlyrelevant(e.gTheOccupyMovement99vs.1).

    Useofsocialmediatoenhancethepoten%aloftheproject(Instagram,Tumblr,Facebook)andencouragedemand.

    Crea%onofambiguous,surrealandeven-dreamlikeimagerythatimmersestheviewer;theyareforcedtoviewtheimagesmul%ple%mesfromdifferentanglestocomprehendwhattheyareseeing.

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    INITIALREFERENCESTOACCOMPANYAIMS

    NickKnightDarkAnnie(A/W2009)

    AnnMclarenHodgson

    StevenKlein(VogueMarch2012)NickKnightUnbelievableFashion(BrishVogueDec2008)

    Emphasisonabstraconandmovement.

    StevenKlein(InterviewSummer2011)

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    CONCEPTDEVELOPMENT:DYSTOPIANVISIONS

    Ini%alcrea%onofanelaboraterealis%cstorylinetoachieveauniqueandcohesivenarra%vewitheachimageadifferenteventtogetherwithinthesameuniverselinkingtothepreviousimage;decideduponfocusingonthethemeofa

    nuclearblast,fromdetona%ontonuclearwinter.

    Crea%onofatwo-partshoottoachieveasuccessfulnarra%ve.Firstpartafocusonthenuclearblastwithemphasisoncolour,abstrac%onandmovementin

    whichthemodelappearstotakeontheformofthebomb;secondpartmore

    sombreands%lltofocusontheaermathwithemphasisoninkycolours.

    Construc%onofaminimalsmallsetconsis%ngofawhatappearstobethedestroyedfounda%onsofabuildingwithinarubblefilledwasteland;movement

    totakeplacewithinseparatesetconsis%ngoflightsandcolourama.

    Focusonpreciseuseofligh%ng,smokeandwindtocreatemovement,senseofscaleandatmosphere.

    Carefulandconsidereduseofpost-processingtocreateuniqueimagery.

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    INITIALREFERENCESTOACCOMPANYCONCEPT

    PartOne:NuclearBlast(Day101/05)

    PartTwo:NuclearWinter(Day202/05)

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES

    ConorandMolly:ArtDirec%onandShootCo-Ordina%on(Conor)

    VisualResearch

    Cas%ngandCollabora%onStylingandDressDesign

    CameraMaster(Molly)

    ChrissieandGemma:HealthandSafety(Gemma)

    PropSourcing

    Ligh%ngLeadBuildingLead

    BudgetController(Chrissie)

    Post-Produc%onLead(Chrissie)

    DigitalTech(Gemma)

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORARTDIRECTIONANDSHOOTCO-

    ORDINATION

    Oversawprogressionandproduc%onofen%reproject;workingasagroupadvisedanddirectedgroupmembersofwhatneededtobedoneatanyspecificpointintheproject

    development.

    Organisedagendaandscheduleofgroupmee%ngs,takingnotes.

    ResponsiblewithChrissiefordrivingini%alideasintoamoredefinableandachievableconcept.

    Specificinputintocrea%ngthevisualstyleoftheshootwithafocusondesigningaspeciallycommissioneddresstoaccompanyboththeconceptandset.

    Direc%ngthemodelonbothshootdays.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYVISUALRESEARCH(NUCLEARBLAST)

    Theteamworkedtogetherduringtheprojectsini%aldevelopmentinthecrea%onofmoodboardsdetailingthechosenthemeofdystopiaandapocalypse.

    ConorandMollythenworkedtogetheronsourcingvisualresearchfromvariousmul%-mediaresourcestoaccompanytheprojectsmorefocuseddevelopment.Whenithad

    beendecidedtofocussolelyonnuclearwarenoughimageryofaermathhadalready

    beencollectedforthemtobeabletoconcentrateonthefirstpartoftheshoot:the

    NuclearBlast.

    Theyconcentratedonsourcinghistoricalwarimagery,violentnaturalevents,notablepost-warar%sts,abstractart,theatricalandcrea%vefashionshootsthatfocusedon

    elaboratestyling,movement,anduniquepost-processing.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYVISUALRESEARCH(NUCLEAR

    AFTERMATH)

    MoodboardScans(PutinMonday)

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYSTYLINGANDDRESSDESIGN

    COLLABORATIONKeytothesuccessoftheshootwascollabora%on.Tocarrytheshootweneededatheatrical,

    powerfulandiconicdressthatwouldbeflexibletolookdifferentacrossbothpartsofthe

    shoot;thismeantcollabora%ngwithastudentsecond-yeardesigner(AlicePar%ngton)from

    UOB.WedecidedagainstusingtheMAgarmentsaswefeltthatitwouldntfittheoutcomewewanted.

    ThegroupestablishedwhattheythoughtwouldworkbestandConorworkedcloselywiththe

    designerthroughouttorealiseourvision.Theini%albriefwasforadresstorepresenta

    nuclearexplosionascloselyaspossibleinbothcolourandsize.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYSTYLINGANDDRESSDESIGN

    COLLABORATION

    A.PsInialSketchesonpresentaonofbrief.

    Referencingtheimagerysent,A.Psdesigns

    representedareversednuclearexplosionwitha

    slimtopandlayeredboomhalf.Thishalf

    featuredheavyfabricsasasuppor%vebasewhichwerebuiltuponwithlayersofchiffron

    thatwouldbeabletobeliedbywindmachines

    tocreatethechaoswewantedinourimagery.

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    A.PsDeveloped

    sketchesandfinaldesign

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    Themakingofthegarment

    Shapingthedresswaseasybutcolourwasproblema%c.

    Toomuchcolouranditwouldlookoutofplace,not

    enoughandthedresswouldblendintotheset.A.P

    carefullydyedallthefabricsamasmokygreybeforecarefullyworkingintothelayerswiththemoreintense

    coloursworkingtheirwayfromtheboomofthedress

    tothetoptorepresentthatreverseexplosion.Acrylicand

    charcoalwasalsousedinaviolentmannerwiththeintent

    toburnthedressforparttwooftheshoottocreatea

    moreinteres%ngeditorial.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYCASTING

    Thedresswastheatricalandweneededatall,slim,strong,flexible,powerfulandlong-haired

    modeltoincorporateourvisionofanuclearblast;anindividualthatalsodidnotlook

    commercial.Findingallourcollaboratorswasverydifficultandtookmonthsofsearching

    throughFacebookandwordofmouth.

    Modelswerepar%cularlydifficulttofind.Allmembersofthegrouptookaproac%veeffortto

    searchthroughFacebookwhilstConorandMollyworkedtogethertocontactmodeling

    agenciesandsearchthroughfreelancemodelwebsites;unfortunatelywereceivednoreply.

    Theneedtoshootacrosstwodaystomaximisethepoten%alofourshootmadenarrowedour

    choiceofmodelstojustChloe;butslim,longhairedandsixfoottallfulfilledallourpreferences

    Wemanagedtofindfourpoten%almodels:

    GeorgiaKu BethArsco[ FreddyFuller ChloeDavis

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDMOLLYHAIRANDMAKE-UPCOLLABORATION

    Wealsoneededacompetenthairstylistandmake-upar%sttoachievethelookwedesired:

    PartOneWildwindswepthairandquiteminimalmake-up(bareface/nymphlikewithsmooth

    andpaleskinandstrongcheekbones/jawlines)

    PartTwoWetsleekbackhairandquiteminimalmake-up(bareface/nymphlikewithsmoothandpaleskinandstrongcheekbones/jawlines).

    Victoriaguidedusintoconsideringquiteaminimalis%clookinordertoavoidaclashwiththe

    theatreofthedressandtheset.

    Findingbothhair/make-upandamodelwasverydifficultandtookmonthsofsearchingthroughfacebookandwordofmouth;butwefoundthreeindividualswillingtodevotetwo

    daysoftheir%metohelpus.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CHRISSIEANDGEMMASETDESIGNANDDEVELOPMENT

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    Theini%aldesignforoursetwastobebasedonaprojectedimage:thatwe

    wouldthenbuildoutfrom.Withinthisideathemodelwouldhaveacontext

    andplaceofbeing,yetitwoulds%llobviouslybefakeandappearasadistant

    memoryofthecharacter.Althoughtheideawasstrong,wehadissueswithprojec%onintermsoftheligh%ng(seeligh%ngslides).Alsooneofthemain

    issueswasthatthemodelwouldhavetostandtothesideoftheprojec%on

    unlesswewantedittobeplaceduponher:shewouldalsohavetostandquite

    farawaytogetasenseofscale:intheimagesbelowsheisstanding31cm

    away.Wethenlookedatusingaprintedfabricbackdrop:withthepricingfora

    3mx1.4maround30max.

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    Aerelimina%ngthefabricprint/projec%onidea,welookedatkeepingabackimage,butbuildingthisdestroyedbuildingthatwehadwithintheimages.This

    wouldadddepthandbeercontexttothefinalimages.Havingtwowallswould

    allowustohavealargershoo%ngarea,butforthebackimagetodropoutandnot

    besoprominent,thereneededtobeagreatdistancebetweenthebuildingandthebackimage:sothesizeofthespacewasanissue.

    Thematerialsforourwallswedecidedtobepolyboardsasthewerelightweightandeasytoassembleintoposi%on.

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    Mocksetupofsecondbuildidea:twowalls,placedata90degreeangle.

    Heightinthemiddleforscaleagainstthebackcanvas.Wemeasuredthisas12x12:

    wewantedalargesetforthemodeltobesmallincomparisonandforthegreatwidthwewanted.Theproblemwethenfoundwiththissetisitdoesn'tt

    giveusgreatdepth,sowethoughtaboutmovingthesettoanangle,

    crea%ngthisvanishingpoint,andalsomakingthelargersec%onsofthewallstheouter

    edgetoenabletobackdroptohavemoreofafocalpointandallowgreaterdepth.

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    Wepushedthisideafurtheraeramee%ngwiththesetbuilddesigner:wespokeabout

    addingmorelayerstothescene:buildingbackwardsintoavanishingpoint.

    Thisaddedgreaterdepthandallowedforsepara%onwithintheimage:placeswherethe

    modelcouldstand.Wealsodiscussedthecontextoftheset:thetypesofcolours,brickstylesandflooringwewouldusewouldcreatethesenseofaplaceand%mewithin

    theimage,sothisallhadtobecarefullyselected.

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    Wefurtherdevelopedthesetonthedayofthebuild,removingtheobciousvanisgingpoint

    andwideningthecanvasandamdset,crea%ngmorerealsi%cwallstoaddevenmoredepth

    totheimage.Thesizeofthesetdidmeanourshoo%ngspacewaslimited,butitallowedforustocreatethestyleofsetwewantedintermsofscale.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CHRISSIEANDGEMMALIGHTINGDEVELOPMENT

    Projec%on.Wediscussedthisideaofusingaprojectorsowecoulduseamovingimageand

    create a really abstract feel to the set.Wewere unsure onwhat to projectaswe all had

    slightlydifferentvisualideasfortheset.Wewantedittobeabstractandmaybeappeartobelike amemory, so like the images wouldbe aflash of thepast and thatwouldbe howa

    narra%vewouldappear.

    Weplayedaroundwithtwodifferentprojectorstoseewhatrangewecouldget,alsotryinga

    a back projec%on to so thatwewouldnt get a shadow of themodel. The light, scaleand

    shadows from the projector just meant it wasnt worth the hassle. Andwe thought up adifferentideausingacanvasbackdrop.

    Wealsotriedoutsuingcolour jels,thiswouldgivemoreofanatmospheretothe ideaofa

    blastperhaps.Butwithtryingthatitwasaclearthatitwouldntworkforus,itdidn'tgivethe

    effectthatwasevidentintheresearch.Itwouldbeeasiertoscrapthatideaands%cktothe

    basics.

    Itwasback to thedrawingboardwith both of these, neitherworked to thewaywe,as a

    group,visualisedsoitwouldbebeertojusttakeitbacktothedrawingboardandredoit.

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    Theseexamplesshowthedifferentproblemsweencounteredwhen trying out the projec%on and colour Jels. Basically we

    wanted the scale and distance so that she looked small

    amongst her surroundings. Butwe also wanted the light. To

    achievethiswecouldn'ttuseeitherasitstartedtoaffectitin

    waysthatjustwontworkforwhatwewant.

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CHRISSIEMATERIALSOURCINGFORSET

    Aswedecidedtousepolyboardsforoursetitwasacaseoffiguringouthowmanywould

    beneededforthesetandhowmuchitwouldcost.Therewerealotofsourcesavailablefor

    gengthepolyboardsanditwasjustacaseofgoingroundtotheshopstoaskfordealsor

    lookingonlinetoseeiftheycouldbeatit.Alsowehadtostartsourcingrubble,thatcould

    comefromaskiporanyothersourcethatdealswithrubble.Iftheskipwasonapersons

    driveorlandwehadtoaskpermissionotherwiseifitwasjustonastreetitwasfinetojust

    take.

    Wesourcedawoodenpalletfrombytheskipsatunitoalsouseasrubble,amixofbrick

    andwoodwouldsufficeasbuildingrubble.

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    Thiswouldbe

    cheapestop%on

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CHRISSIEBUDGETSPREADSHEET

    TheBudget.Thiswasfairlysimpletokeeptrackofasweallknewwhowasbuyingwhat.

    Theboomgridisallabout

    ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES: CONOR AND CHRISSIE - STORYBOARD

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    ROLESANDRESPONSIBILITIES:CONORANDCHRISSIE-STORYBOARDOuroriginalstoryboardconsistedofsevenshots.Wewantedadrama%c,cohesiveand

    interes%ngeditorialthatincorporatedbothrealismandabstrac%on.Becausewewereonly

    usingonegarmentwefeltthatburningthedresswouldrepresenttheen%retyofanuclear

    explosionwhilstappearingtobecomeanothergarment.Torepresentanuclearexplosionand

    nuclearwinterwereallyneededtoshootacrosstwodaysinsteadofthestandardoneasthe

    shotswouldtake%metoachieve.

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    SETPREPRATIONANDBUILD

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    SETPREPERATIONBEFOREBUILDWEEK

    Weallcontributedinpain%ngandthewiththeprepbeforebuildingtheset.It

    tookafairlylong%metogetallthepolyboardsdoneandtogetthemallcutand

    madetolooklikebrickwork.Thepain%ngwasabittediousandboring,pain%ngthebrickworkandrubbletookaverylong%me.

    S OO S O

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    SHOOTWEEK:SETBUILDDEVELOPMENT

    Thiswasaverylongweekof

    sengup,playingaround

    andmakingmistakes.There

    werealotofproblemsbut

    eventuallywegotthere.

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    IMAGERY:CONTACTSHEETANDINITIAL

    CHOICES

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    IMAGERY: INITIAL CHOICES AS A CONTACT SHEET

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    IMAGERY:INITIALCHOICESASACONTACTSHEET

    Intotalwetook1500images,butonbothshootdaysweencounteredproblemswith

    ligh%ngandfacesharpnesswhichmeantonlyaselec%onoftheimageswereactually

    useable.Theimagesweresplitintosec%onsofsimilarityandthefinalthreechosebased

    onacohesivelinkbetweenthemintheeditorialandalinkbacktoouroriginalstoryboardvision.

    IMAGERY: IMAGES CONSIDERED TO TAKE FORWARD THROUGH TO EDITORIAL

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    IMAGERY:IMAGESCONSIDEREDTOTAKEFORWARDTHROUGHTOEDITORIAL

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    IMAGERY:EDITORIAL

    EDITORIAL: INITIAL CONCEPT

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    EDITORIAL:INITIALCONCEPT

    EDITORIAL: DISCARDED CHOICES

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    EDITORIAL:DISCARDEDCHOICES

    Construc%nganeditorialwasfrustra%ngastheshootdaysdidntgoaswehadhopedandthe

    storyboardwasnolongerpossible.Weoriginallywantedtogoforquiteafineartphotographic

    magazineinspiredpresenta%onwhichwouldhaveallowedustobemorecrea%vewithourselec%onof

    imageryandfitouroriginalaimtobeabstract,butweweretoldthataswewouldbemarkedonselec%onratherthanpresenta%on.Assuchtherewasnopointinpursuingsuchaneditorial.

    EDITORIAL:DISCARDEDCHOICES

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    Weneededacohesivenarra%veofsimilarimageryandourchoiceofasinisteropenerimageanddouble

    spreadoverlaywiththemodelsfaceobscuredmeantthatareoriginalideasofincludingfabricimages

    andportraitsofthemodellookingpowerfulcouldnotberealisedastheydidnotfit.Wekeptthe

    modelsfacehiddenthroughoutanddecideduponasinisterbutsimpleandunclueredspreadwith

    pagebreaks.Thiswentwellwiththesetdesignbutmeantouronceelaboratestoryboardhadbeengreatlysimplified.

    EDITORIAL: FINAL CHOICE

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    EDITORIAL:FINALCHOICE

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    EVALUATION

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    Groupdiscussionneeded,maybeeasiertodoaerall

    individualcri%calanalysishavebeendone.