Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily Number 3

THE DAILYNo. 3Autumn / Winter 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

GLAMAZON CHICBY MALENE BIRGER

ARMY OF GRUNGEGANNI

NIGHT RICHESSEMARK KENLY DOMINO TAN

ITALIAN LOVEBAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

copenhagenfashionweek.com

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PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF:Elsebeth Mouritzen

DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR:Anne Christine Persson

ASSISTANT EDITOR:Frederik Højgaard

COPY EDITING:Louis Vernal

ART DIRECTOR:Marie Brodersen

WRITERS:Sille Henning, Lotte Freddie, Jeppe Ugelvig, Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, Courtney Forrest

COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné

PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.

SALES: Julie Steenstrup

DISTRIBUTION: Signe Hye Mouritzen, Camilla Falkvist

PRINT:Berlingske Avistryk

CONTRIBUTORS

Just like the old saying goes, clothing makes the (wo)man, the same does a location to a brand.

So, was it coincidence that three of Thursday’s shows were held in some of the finest build-ings in Copenhagen? I choose to believe, not.

Framed by classical architecture with ref-erences to Greek and Italian style - rich in detail, colour, and material, the choices of Glyptoteket and Thorvaldsen museums and an assembly hall in the old Copenhagen Uni-

versity were genius. It symbolized a recovered faith, when By Malene Birger, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Mark Kenly Domino Tan respectively pre-sented their new autumn collections in these grand high-ceilinged rooms that can easily compete with the grand palaces often used during international fashion weeks abroad.

Different as they may be, they united the as-pirations and self confidence of Copenhagen Fashion Week as being an important player in the global market place, and by using ven-ues out of the extraordinary, where focus has been on beauty and craftsmanship, they auto-matically lifted their own designs to an even higher level, and this way became a catalyst for the overall optimism in society in gener-al, and the fashion market in particular. They sent a message to the world that they dare to be bold about their unique abilities, without being too pompous.

The official venue at City Hall is also an old landmark building of Copenhagen, and, in the most democratic manner, acted host yes-terday - to as diverse brands as the hailed Freya Dalsjø, commercial Lovechild1979 and foreign visitors Fashion Hong Kong - and

will continue through today when innovative Nicholas Nybro borrows the limelight.

Across town, one of the oldest buildings Run-detårn (Round Tower), dating from the 17th century, has also been annexed by the fashion community. Not to mention the grande dame on Kongens Nytorv; the newly restored lux-ury hotel d’Angleterre, that has lent its Palm Court Ballroom to everything from couture dressmaker Jesper Høvring to hip menswear designer Asger Juel Larsen over the past few days.

As you would think that fashion and design is all about the new, the modern, the next wave, it is refreshing to see how the history and cul-tural heritage is not a contradiction with the novelties, but is in interplay with the desire to update the storytelling of Copenhagen as a brand destination.

Check out the show schedule at

COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM & download our free app for more details go to

COPENHAGENFASHIONFESTIVAL.COM

COPENHAGEN CLASSICS

ELSEBETHMOURITSEN

Editor-in-Chief

ohbykopenhagenfur.com

Oh annonceThe Daily.indd 1 02-02-16 14:23:08



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Shopping for coveted Scandi furniture items has never been easier. Copenhagen Fashion Week’s furniture partner Sofakompagniet of-fers a unique business model that cuts out costly middlemen and delivers the product to you straight from the factory. By controlling all business processes from design to delivery, Sofakompagniet offers excellent products at competitive products.

A team of talented in-house designers cre-ates a minimum of four collections a year, all products customisable in terms of fabrics, col-ours and legs.

SCANDINAVIAN SOFAS – MADE SIMPLE

Pilgrim Jewellery adds more cool-factor than ever before with their choice of model for the newest campaign. And in their own words, it is a very good example of their core business, where they continuously work to refresh the brand and brand perception.- The consumer is not just purchasing a piece of jewellery; she is also buying into the image that comes with that piece of jewellery. There is so much simplicity and yet a lot of thought behind – and love in it – and this little piece of pure natural awesomeness, is represented by Emma Leth, a girl, a person, a model with personality, heart, good looks and something to say, shares Katrine Seiffert Tiemroth, Head of Marketing & Communication at Pilgrim.

As an evolving company Pilgrim Jewellery have taken major steps throughout their 30 years in business, but especially these last

NATURAL AWESOMENESS

Swedish shoe brand Vagabond lives up to its name for the collections to be revealed dur-ing Copenhagen Fashion Week by wandering in past decades for inspiration and yet aiming for a future look with cutting-edge styles cap-turing and reflecting the punk music.Showing this at Revolver trade fair is very im-portant to Creative Director & Co-founder Marie Nilsson-Peterzén:- We are so happy to be here this season! It is the right place for Vagabond to greet our growing number of international clients, since Copenhagen is also the city for one of our newest concept stores, one of which we are very proud of.

She heads the team in their Sweden work-shop, where new prototypes of shoes and ac-cessories are carefully designed and crafted every day. They are then turned into 2.5 mil-lion Vagabond products that reach 42 coun-tries each year through about 2000 stores.

What the stores and consumers can expect later this year within the women’s range is a combination of femininity with formality for a minimalistic approach along with an edgy style with hints from the punk music cul-ture. Key styles are loafers, Chelsea’s and the

WITH A NOD TO PUNK

The Danish Fashion Ethical Charter, estab-lished in 2007, seeks to ensure the well-be-ing of Danish models, to contribute to the creation of relevant and appropriate informa-tion about eating disorders, and to help raise awareness and influence attitudes in the fash-ion industry as well as in the media and in so-ciety in general.

Signing the charter became a requirement in order to show at Copenhagen Fashion Week as of March 2015, where a new and tightened version of the charter was presented. It was met by a great support from the industry.We are pleased to inform that all brands on this season’s show schedule have signed the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter.

Join the list of more than 300 companies that have declared their support of the new char-ter at www.danishfashionethicalcharter.com.

ALL BRANDS IN SHOW SCHEDULE COMMIT TO ETHICAL CHARTER

lace-up shoe with a masculine touch. Boots are majorly important whether they are high, overknee or pointy. Squared toe, buckles and studs are detailing this season’s styles.

For men the love of the formal look with in-fluences from the 50’s and the 60’s is key in the slender boot with a little heel, as well as formal shoes such as oxfords, derbies, and monks together with loafer and sneaker styles are important, though chunkier shoes are also playing a central role this season.

years they have, despite very small budgets and a very big crisis surrounding us all, dared to change and believe that they could make it through a rebranding and repositioning.One of the keys to maintaining their success is the fact that, even if trends come and go, that a steadfast will to walk the talk, and stay true to their story, even though it at times was tough to keep focus in sustained opposition.

The secret is a closely knit design team con-sisting of sisters-in-law Anne Mette Markvad and Birte Markvad supplemented by Tess Dam, who have worked together for dec-ades. They know the origin and history of the brand so well, that they use the DNA to move forward.

- We started out as a hippie-ish bohemi-an brand, and even if we have changed over

time, some consumers haven’t yet discovered it. Now that this style has comes back into fashion, we reinterpret it in a minimalistic way to stay current, and always with a femi-nine touch, says designer Birte Markvad.- We need to show everybody something new, to make people see, that we chance, adds Katrine Seiffert Tiemroth to the fact that Pilgrim produces four large and varied collections each year, just like many of the fashion labels.

Showrooms will open in Copenhagen and Århus, allowing you to browse the selection before purchasing your next furniture favour-ite online.



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After 13 years of successful wholesale, Danish accessories brand Becksöndergaard now takes the big leap into retail, when they open a pop-up store on March 3 at Copenhagen Airport in the coveted tax-free area, where major do-mestic and international fashion and lifestyle brands are already present.- We are very excited about presenting Becksöndergaard in our own universe for the first time in the history of the brand. We are looking forward to inviting our costumers in-side a retail concept, which we think balances well between the feminine and whimsical and at the same time presents a timeless Danish design imprint, says Anna Søndergaard, who started the accessories brand in 2003 with Lis Beck.

The key to their immediate success then was the niche they found in the fashion market-place for products made from South Kore-an eel skin, but since then the designers have developed accessories in other materials for scarves, jewellery, handbags, belts and purs-es. They now do business with 1.400 retailers, web-shops and department stores across Eu-rope, in Japan and USA, but the pop-up shop will give the many travellers passing through Copenhagen Airport an exclusive look into the brand’s Wönderland, as they call it.

AIRPORT POP-UP SHOP

Sunglasses have long been the ultimate fash-ion accessory, especially those with the right brand name and logo, but recently prescrip-tion glasses of designer origin are making a fast move forward.Someone who knows everything about this is Copenhagen’s exclusive frontrunner in eye-wear of 45 years, Poul Stig Briller, who is ceas-ing the opportunity of using Copenhagen Fashion Festival to launch new models from Céline and Alhem at their Østergade branch, as part of their anniversary celebrations.- We spend a lot of time finding small, new brands, and every year we look for novelties at fairs in Paris, Milan, and New York. To us

EYEWEAR FIRST MOVER

The preferred hair care partner of Copenha-gen Fashion Week, TRESemmé, has released a new shampoo and conditioner series, just in time for fashion week. The TRESemmé Botanique line is inspired by nature and con-tains coconut milk, coconut oil and aloe vera extract in a new, innovative formula that pro-vides everything that is needed for a beautiful and healthy looking hair.

TRESemmé Botanique gives a gentle cleans-ing and lightweight condition, moisturising the hair without weighing it down. The series contains no silicones or dyes, and provides nourishment for your hair.

TRESemmé is sold in all Danish retailers and in Matas.

CLEANSING COCONUT

Copenhagen Fashion Week distributes show photos, show videos, street style photos, and interviews.

Press can register for our Media Bank where all content can be downloaded for print and online publication as soon as access has been granted.The show photos are available for download in high-resolution shortly after each show. The street style photos can be requested per email and will be transferred late at night or the fol-lowing day. Request street style: [email protected]

When publishing our photos, please use the following credit: COPENHAGEN FASH-ION WEEK®Register for access at copenhagenfashionweek.com

FASHION WEEK MEDIA

- This is our first step on the way to creating a boutique concept, and it has been great fun. It feels like giving the outside world a peek into our showroom, where the Becksöndergaard team develops new ideas every day, says Anna Søndergaard with reference to their universe of douche colours, geometric edges and charac-teristic wood.

Becksöndergaard is among the leading acces-sory-brands in the mid to high market seg-ment with a current turnover of €13,7m . Their decision to implement this new strate-gy has been reinforced by the investment, that Swedish equity fund Valedo made two years ago, securing a strong economic platform for the company, while the founders are still ma-jor stakeholders.

it is all about discovering brands, that are dif-ferent, quirky or just have a great story be-hind the design, says Sara Devantier, store manager at the Frederiksberg branch of Poul Stig Briller.

They have the exclusive rights to most of their brands, and their reputation for being selec-tive is renowned within the eyewear busi-ness, so many brands make the initial contact themselves, in order to break into the Dan-ish market.

The staff’s keen eye for upcoming designers, and their ability to make them successful,

have competitors following in their footsteps, but as soon as Poul Stig Briller sense that a brand is about to go into a broader distribu-tion, they are already on the lookout for the next big thing in eyewear.

Right now they are proud to offer the new collections from Céline and Ahlem, and espe-cially the latter has become a favourite of ce-lebrities, counting Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss and, A$AP Rocky as fans.



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For A/W16, Ganni’s creative director Ditte Refstrup came out as nothing but ’Anglophile’ – mashing up a pallet of Brit references, from Damon Albarn to Queen Elizabeth. As lengthily explored at other houses during Copenhagen Fashion Week, the 90’s era is a practically infinite source of inspiration, the time of the great youth-cultural clash of visualities that led to the break-down of modernism’s rigid aesthetic hierarchies.

The almost iconic Gl. Torv nightclub Penthouse had been transformed to a grungy salon, bathed in red limelight and hedonist Britpop banging out its speakers: undoubtedly, the preferred habi-tat of the new Ganni girl. Audiences were cramped into nightclub booths while an army of grun-ge waltzed through the multi-storey venue in a carefree fashion.

There were some brilliant looks – oversized blazers on top a dress on top a school uniform sweat-er – and collectively, the garments formed a collection that was tolerably nostalgic and for-ward-looking. An army-green bomber jacket paired effortlessly with loose silk tracksuit pants, and the baby pink skirt with a chunky clipper belts was the highlight of the heavily styled show.

The more quiet moments of sand monochrome reminded us of Ganni’s easy, breezy, beauti-ful-approach to fashion, that underlies the fun, sexy and easy aspect of a woman’s wardrobe. Some outfits seemed a little caricatured – we chose to ignore the fake leopard fur – but maybe that’s OK for a brand whose usual biggest challenge is conventionality.

GANNI

SCHOOL GIRL GRUNGE

Time: 21:00Place: Penthouse

Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

Købmagergade 13, København

@marimekkodesignhouse marimekko.com



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FREYA IN FURS

Last season witnessed a revitalised Freya Dalsjø; youthful in expression while remaining loyal to her instinctual sensibility for luxury. What could possibly trump or even succeed such a seminal statement? As the crowds gathered in the Town Hall, an ambient Bollywood soprano lingered in the air – alluding to a collection that was the very embodiment of femininity.

The risk of doing a conceptual collection is the subsequent, potentially awkward, return to for-malism. Not to say that Dalsjø ever strayed from supreme craftsmanship, and she underlined this with a series of skilfully constructed creased white tops and dresses, and anti-fit jackets with rows of appliqué patches. The 70s reappeared in a more abstract manner, surfacing in wide, rust-coloured corduroy silhouettes and delicate striped silk print with an added touch of blue. Certainly, Dalsjø works the best when she aims for her younger clients: one- and off-shoulder tops reminisced carefree teenage summers, and a street-savvy quilted bomber jacket had gone Dalsjø Deluxe in supreme dyed leather.

Denmark’s queen of fur presented a whole new series of gob-smacking innovations in the pre-cious material, translating Greenlandic mink into divine cropped coats with exposed hemlines, and comfy-looking tippets that glimmered like aurora borealis in a deep spectrum of other-worldly colours.

It was a continuation rather than a repetition of last year’s reboot, a dimmed-down collection that instead of re-invention reflected upon the designer’s own growing heritage. Freya Dalsjø is a forced to be reckoned with, and has cemented her name in the upper-segment market of un-compromised luxury – I mean, did you see those furs?

FREYADALSJØ

Time: 12:00Place: City HallWords: Jeppe Ugelvig



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Maikel Tawadros had chosen the historical landmark; Round Tower, as the location of his AW16 show. The music was upbeat and vigorous as the first model took the stage.

The understated designer took inspiration from a militant aesthetic, but while working on the collection, he realized that he needed something to soften it up. To do so, he looked in the direc-tion of the late ‘40s – a time where Europe had overcome the Second World War and women’s fashion was blossoming into a more positive expression.

The dimensions of traditional tailoring and the potential of the uniform were themes explored as Tawadros used lengthy stern collars, hand made majorettes-hats, and chains on jackets as a ref-erence to military medallions. To retain the sense of uniformity the garments were kept in un-derstated indigo blue, anthracite grey and shades of green. Silk chiffons, velvet, opulent fox, and Japanese denim gave the styles a current look and a crisp feel.

A pity, that Maikel Tawadros failed to emphasize his post-war vision and thus, losing the over-all storyline of the collection, something he could have avoided, by for instance, adding a trench coat. Nevertheless Tawadros is slowly but surely moving away from the avant-garde in favour of a tailored look in accordance with fashion trends – and it seems like the right direction to move in!

MAIKELTAWADROS

ON THE PATH OF TAILORING

Time: 11:00Place: The Round TowerWords: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen

THE NEW BREED S/S 16 #MODERNVAGABOND



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The lights went down at The Palm Court at Hotel D’Angleterre and the super-cool crowd one comes to expect at an Asger Juel Larsen show stared silently at the drum/dj set in the center of the room.

A thumping drum baseline and haunting score, produced in collaboration with Simon and Rasmus Littauer, reached a heart-pounding crescendo as we were transported to Juel Larsen’s post-apocalyptic universe where “more rules” means “more rule-breakers.” Dubbed “Born Worn”, the collection was a series of mash-ups: vintage and futuristic, rockabil-ly and hillbilly, urban and the wild. There was a sense of the hunter versus the hunted, echoed by the somber tones and use of various sized fur pelts, as if found after an animal face-off. Tar-tans, weather-finished leathers, knits and natural soy waxed cottons were all layered and mixed together with a devil-may-care attitude.

Body shapes ranged from super slim to slightly slouchy to over-exaggerated volume – all tailored to perfection. Where he used deconstruction, as in frayed hems, it felt more deliberate than in past seasons. The only misstep was where things went a bit too Midnight Cowboy with bolero ties and Western belts.

Juel Larsen’s strength lies in his outerwear, and this season was no exception. That said, this col-lection as a whole was his most well-thought-out from start to finish. He described it as, “a bit more commercial than you’ve seen from me before, but still very much my DNA. You can feel me out there, I feel myself out there.”

We feel you, Asger.

ASGER JUELLARSEN

COMMERCIALDNA

Time: 20:00Place: Hotel D’AngleterreWords: Courtney Forrest



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THE DAWN OF THE EXSTEEN ERA

The grand atmosphere of the Glyptoteket art museum juxtaposed with the ultra-modern Per-spex installation set the stage for one of By Malene Birger designer Christina Exsteen’s strongest collections to date. The vibe was established from the first beat of Beyonce’s “7/11” – sexy, glam-orous, strong. The red-lipped model army, including Josephine Skriver and Caroline Brasch, strutted the catwalk exuding power and confidence.

Exsteen described her inspiration as a “21st century femme fatale”, “understated and sophisticat-ed”, “alluring and sexy.” She hit all of these notes with a focused collection that was refined, and thoroughly modern. The collection was 70’s glamazon meets 80’s power woman, with a splashes of 40’s Hepburn. The jewel-toned palette felt incredibly luxe as sensuous fox, silk, lace and mo-hair combined with leather and patent.

It was a true celebration of the feminine form – with a strong emphasis on the waist in paper-bag trousers and cinched-belted coats. Sharply tailored power-suitings felt crisp, while boudoir-in-spired robes and slip dresses created an air of nonchalance.

The “bells and whistles” were kept to a minimum – over-sized buttons, sequins, pearls and crys-tals added just the right amount of oomph to over-sized pockets, lapels, and skirt hems. Futuris-tic Perspex-heeled mod boots and the brand’s signature handbags added the final polish.Exsteen has really come into her own, firmly cementing her vision for this next chapter of the beloved brand’s evolution. By Malene Birger’s legion of international fans are in good hands, and should be excited about what the future holds.

BY MALENEBIRGER

Time: 14:00Place: GlyptoteketWords: Courtney Forrest



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LOVECHILD IN TRANSFORMATION

A collection about transformation, in more than just one sense. Like the transition from adoles-cence to adulthood, is how Lovechild1979 describes its AW16 collection.

The models marched out as the muttering sounds of a female-voiced moan gradually filled the speakers: was this the Creative Director’s subtle reference to the coming-of-age-theme? The an-swer remains unclear. In her search for inspiration, the designer, Anne Dorthe Larsen, heavily drew on her 90’s upbringing – which was presented with exactitude, exemplified by the models all wearing sharp, banged wigs - in case you missed the reference through the clothes.

Lovechild 1979 certainly presented wearable designs for an everyday purpose but unfortunately an element of exclusivity was missing. Wide pants, midi skirts, a pajamas look, and three quarter sleeves - some complimented with a shirt underneath. With all this, a preppy, boarding school look was what came to mind: Grey and light blue with long, dark grey socks in black loafers. A sudden tone of turquoise was a refreshing element to a collection otherwise kept in dark colours. Favourite pieces, were the label’s long, woollen coats and a short reversible sheepskin jacket.

LOVECHILD 1979

Time: 18:00Place: City HallWords: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen

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Luca Guadagnino’s beautiful, heartbreaking, prize winning film, Io sono l’amore – I Am Love – was filmed in Milan’s fabulous Villa Necchi Campiglio, designed by architect Piero Portalup-pi in 1930. The mansion, an Art Deco icon, “part palace, part museum, and part prison” - ac-cording to the film’s star, Tilda Swinton - is the inspiration for Baum und Pferdgarten’s winter collection 2016.

The lines and patterns of the interior, adorn all of the material. Like a fan motive printed on green silk or on brown velvet in a dress with matching 70’s styled flared trousers. This period influences other trouser suits – in wine or bottle green velvet or as black and white stripes with frills bordering the flared trouser slits. Leopard is used as marvellous palazzo pants worn under a straight matching dress – or as cuffs giving jackets extra vroom vroom.A sophisticated sailor theme comes as navy striped white in sections on wide trousers worn un-der long matching coats. And as gold buttons thrown onto jackets or along slits on narrow sexy knitted midi dresses.

Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten love gold and Art Deco references. This shows in a to-die-for midi length A-line skirt in bronze gold brocade, a marvel of understated simplicity, the same is the material in a swanky 90’s bomber jacket.

Perfect Modern Romance charms as a loose leaf patterned cream dress – straight out of Berg-man’s Smiles of a Summer Night - and as a long fake fur coat worn over a long lace dress, both leaf green. And fab, three-dimensional lace in chestnut or black, is absolutely lovely in loose 20’s style cuts – worn with crystal embroidered socks in gold shoes – from Top Shop.This is clever design; a reason people come here.

BAUM UNDPFERDGARTEN

SMILES OF ASUMMER NIGHT

Time: 19:00Place: Thorvaldsen MuseumWords: Lotte Freddie



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Mark Kenly Domino Tan brilliantly modernises the medium of ‘eveningwear’, a category that is left largely ignored by young sportswear-fetishizing graduates these days. It is wonderful to see a young talent, marked by his training at the forward-looking Royal College of Art to re-eval-uate keywords such as elegance, serenity, and high-drama. Presenting in a beautifully lit, vene-tian-style ballroom, with champagne and even a live cellist - it was Danish richesse at its finest.

Tan’s practice borders to that of a couturier: materials forming the aesthetic basis of every collec-tion, each garment carefully produced in his atelier with highly skilled tailors. His new collection echoed this with a symphony of highly constructed, almost Gothic gowns and exuberant furs in swakara skins, sourced from Namibia in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur, and imprinted with rich graphics. Furthermore, the designer had drawn on his Chinese heritage with mandarin collars and rich sequin appliqués (a postmodern nod to Maggie Cheung from In the Mood for Love?). Two menswear-looks heightened his vision with a mesmerising rainbow-like coat that faded from grey to bright pink to broken mustard.

Had it not been for one model’s rather brutal Naomi Campbell-moment, and the disconcerting angst in most of the girls’ faces (and postures) due to some excessively high-heeled accessorising, Domino Tan perfected the kind of high-drama couture ethos that Malene Birger once intro-duced to Copenhagen, many years ago. A diva-in-the-making, Tan channelled his inner Valenti-no as he received a standing applause from the Danish noblesse – hail Mark (and flats next time)!

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN

COPENHAGEN RICHESSE

Time: 17:00Place: Krystalgade 25Words: Jeppe Ugelvig



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YOUTHFUL FLAIR

When talking to designer Michael Kristensen before the Birger Christensen show, he said that the intention behind the new collection had been to showcase a more democratic range of work, with designs and prices catering to a younger audience. This was highlighted by new, more dy-namic designs, such as; the graceful swakara poncho with knitted ribbings or the boyish neo-prene sweatshirt with a front of exclusive sable fur.

The show, set in the exquisite settings of the Palm Court, at Hotel d’Angleterre, opened with a beautiful Italian wool coat with off-white mink, demonstrating this mixture of materials as one of the key elements of the collection. Of course there were also more traditional styles such as an off white fox cape, and the claret long mink cape.

One of the stand out piece was the red coat with cut & sewn patchwork, flowers and the blue and green swakara fur, in colours so vivid and dynamic, they almost imitated a print. Yet another new thing was that the fur collection also included menswear, which can be a dif-ficult discipline if not mastered with perfection, but here, it shone in a well-executed manner. Many desirable pieces, like the racoon coat with big monogram buttons or the hooded college jacket that mixed fur and leather.

BIRGER CHRISTENSEN

Time: 16.00Place: Hotel D’AngleterreWords: Sille Henning

045.02.001 WSW Daily 266x370 SP16.indd 1 29/01/16 16:24



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The young emerging designer Pernille Krüger, who graduated from KEA – Copenhagen School of Design, back in 2014, founded the Danish brand Krüger just last year. This was her first show, but second collection, and like the preceding; this one also included both men’s and womens-wear - a bold move for a newcomer.

The inspiration for the collection was drawn from the urban contemporary, hip hop culture and its street fashion – such as oversized mesh hoodies, cropped tops, and drawstring pants. Interest-ingly, some of the cut lines and silhouettes also resembled an almost Inuit-like guise; the neck-line of an anorak and a fur rimmed hood, with a hint of futurism

Krüger had a good overall vision with many intricate details; however, the collection lacked that final convincing touch of know-how and maturity, which hopefully will come with further ex-perience.

Fashion Hong Kong is devised to promote Hong Kong designers by establishing overseas events. One such took place at City Hall where three designers showed their expressions of contempo-rary life. Doris Kath Chan’s collection “Little by Little” – “symbolic of innocence and a fresh start in life”, consisted of modern “schoolmarm” separates – black, soft, midi length skirts, cardi-gans and coats with white shirts. Wearable and pretty. So were both a clever coat, lightly stitched in a red and blue geometric pattern and jackets and bell skirts in bronze cloqué. “Be Not So Gen-tle” was Kenax Leung’s message, inspired by the artist Mel Kendrick. And indeed Leung’s mix of tartans, stripes, and shining fake leather in coats, sweaters, and jackets was cool, hip and almost advanced. Like putting a man’s dark grey dotted suit jacket with light grey dotted trousers. Lulu Cheung’s ballet inspired “Flow” dresses mirrored fashion’s present black and white trend with ample skirts dancing under slim tops.

KRÜGER

FASHIONHONG KONG

Time: 10.00Place: Christian IV Brewery House

Words: Sille Henning

Time: 15:00Place: City Hall

Words: Lotte Freddie

URBANINUIT GUISE

FROM DAY TO EVENING

It’s all in the details; No look is complete unless well-groomed from head to toe – and all seasons require well-groomed feet. Scholl is all about gentle foot care, making your feet look and feel healthy. Therefore, during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scholl celebrates the gorgeous fashion feet details of runways and red carpets alike in the tribute series “Copenhagen Feet Style”. Thursday was another fabulous fashion week

day, and the street style crowd put forward their best fashion feet.

COPENHAGENFEET STYLE

Sponsered by Scholl



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Danish R&B-singer Szhirley is about to finish a new album, and has had enough of listening to herself for the time being, so frequenting her playlist at the moment is All My Friends with Snakehips.

The dance-pop entertainer Lina Rafn was raised to the electro-acoustic tunes of Andreas Wollenweider, which she get’s a nostalgic kick out of listening to. Her playlist for exercising and stretching is more hard-

core upbeat.

The opening of the B&O Play art photo exhibit at Gal-leri K, running through Saturday, drew a musical crowd,

which explored the sensory rooms by listening to the music of others.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritsen

ALL EARS

Lifestyle entrepreneur Christiane Schaumburg-Müller is definitely a pop girl, and when travelling, it’s the

sounds of Miley Cyrus, Szhirley; Sia, and Stine Bram-sen, that fill her auditory canals, while Ol’ Blue Eyes

commands the speakers in her living room.

The ethereal model Sara Polano was elegantly posing with herself in in this renaissance-styled setting of the B&O Play exhitibion. On her personal playlist is Coffee by Sylvan Esso to be found.

R&B-chanteuse Karen Rosenberg knows no better sound than the chattering of her 3-month-old son

Fritz, but when she needs to relax and shut out all outside noise, she immerses herself in the film

scores Thomas Newman.

Stylist Andres Artiles dresses the cool and urban Danish pop crowd, so naturally he listens to Cisilia, City-bois, Nabiha, and Joey Moe, but he is also keen on the tunes of Justin Bieber.

Download the “Revolver Fashion Trade Show” app via App Store or Android Market, and find the exhibiting brands and your own way

through Revolver Village!

Revolver Village Venue - Tietgensgade 65, 1704 Copenhagen V

www.revolver.dk

download navigate

- enjoy the ride!



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THE DAILY

Pop-diva, Medina “I really liked the colours of the collection and the materials looked soft and comfortable. Christina Exsteen is doing a really good job, as the replacement of Malene Birger. My best memory with the label, was when I was allowed into “the secret room” to choose some of their beautiful vintage pieces. It was

like entering a beauty box that contained everything a girl could ever wish for.”

Supermodel, Nadja Bender “I have never walked the By Malene Birger show but she is one of my favourite Danish designers. I really loved the grace of her summer collection and hopefully it will be the same, just in a winterier version. My favourite By Malene Birger piece is a lovely beige jacket with giant flowers on the back – you’ll probably find others

wearing it today!”

Skin care mogul, Andrea Elisabeth Rudolph “I always crave the By Malene Birger show. Their locations are always beautiful and exciting. I have a lot of pencil skirts which I have had for years and will keep wearing for many to come!”

As the front row seats were filling up at the By Malene Birger show, The Daily spoke to the who’s who of the industry.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, FashionFladen.dk

AN EXCLUSIVECROWD

Designer Malene Birger & actress,Ellen Hillingsø “I am expecting a good and strong collection, nice silhouettes, and some glitz and glamour, which is a strong design element of the By Malene Birger fashion

house that Christina Exsteen continues to uphold.“ Malene Birger told The Daily. “I have many good memories from By Malene Birger. I remember once when Malene Birger was still the creative director and 32 evening

gowns were presented along with an Indian-inspired crown.” Actress Ellen Hillingsø said to The Daily.

Actress, Birgitte Hjort Sørensen “My favourite item from By Malene Birger is a all the great

memories - and then a black dress, which is sort of like an oversized t-shit with silver sleeves. The good thing about it is, that you can actually have dessert

while wearing it, ‘cause it doesn’t sit too tight around the stomach area.“

Actress & tv-presenter, Amelia Hoy I liked that By Malene Birger created a femme

fatale, that at the same time, were modern, structured, and seductive - it was very delicious and

fun. One of my favourite items from By Malene Birger is a golden suit in two pieces that I bought

many seasons ago, but I love it! You never go wrong with gold!

W W W . P I L G R I M . D K | @ P I L G R I M J E W E L L E R Y

Pilgrim_SS16_ann_266x370_3stk.indd 3 11-01-2016 11:21:47



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THE DAILY

BFFs fashion professional Uffe Buchard and “bare-foot baroness” Caroline Fleming snuggling up.

Stylist and celeb-dresser Pernille Teisbæk knows her way around Copenhagen, and shares her best tips

with readers of vogue.com

Danish singer Fallulah debuted years ago with a song called Out Of It, but she seemed very into the groove of Baum und Pferdgartens new collection.

Stylist Barbara Gullstein did nothing to disguise that a second love child with heartthrob singer

Rasmus Walther is on its way.

It became a cosy affair with Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baum, when they transformed one of the classic galleries at Thorvaldsens Museum into a fashion venue, complete with giant horse statues.

Although the invite did not imply a print and pattern dress code, several in the front row at Baum und Pferdgarten seemed to want to blend in with the mosaic-tiled catwalk.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

Bloggers Funda Christophersen, Trine Kjær and Frederikke Toftsø were spot on with the pajama trend.

Girls night out for actresses Beate Bille og Laura Christensen, looking slightly androgynous in suits.

Partyman Tue Nagel and film critic at TV2 Ann Lind Andersen opted for an adult grunge-look.

X

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THE DAILY

BACKSTAGEGANNI

HOUSE-BAKED ORGANIC BREAD, GOURMET SANDWICHES AND OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD PIZZAS, HOTEL SKT. PETRI’S CAFÉ BRØL SERVES BAKERY BITES WITH A WIDE SELECTION OF DANISH

CRAFT-BREWED BEERS.

P R O U D PA RT N E R O FCOPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

K R Y S TA L G A D E 2 2 | 1 1 7 2 C O P E N H A G E N | D E N M A R K + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 1 0 0 | S TAY @ S K T P E T R I . C O M

C R I S P, C R U N C H Y A N D C R U S T Y



February 5

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THE DAILY

ON SCHEDULE By invitation only

13.00 CIFF Trade Fair Visit

14.00 Nicholas Nybro

15.00 Designers’ Nest

BUSINESS LOUNGECity Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1

Copenhagen V

Wednesday, 3 February: 11-22Thursday, 4 February: 10-19Friday, 5 February: 9-18


COPENHAGEN FASHIONFESTIVAL EVENTS

OFF SCHEDULEBy invitation only

10.00 HENRIKSILVIUS

11.00 Peter Schamaun

12.00 Federico D’Angelo

17.00 VIA Design

19.00 Trine Lindegaard

TRADE FAIRS CIFF

Bella CenterCenter Boulevard 5Copenhagen S

Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade ShowRevolver VillageTietgensgade 65Copenhagen V

CIFF Raven

Bella CenterCenter Boulevard 5Copenhagen S

FASHION TALK: MODEL TALKZALANDO FASHION HOUSE – TREND RUNWAY SHOWFriday 19.30City HallRådhuspladsen 1Copenhagen V

CPH FINEST FASHION WEEK CLOSING CELEBRATION AW16Friday 22.00Odd Fellow PalaceBredgade 28Copenhagen K

FASHION ICON CAROLINE DE MAIGRET AT THE BLACK DIAMONDThe Black Diamond – The Royal LibraryDronningesalenSøren Kierkegaards Plads 1Copenhagen K

MEET HOLLYWOOD SUPERSTAR GERARD BUTLER AT MAGASINFriday 15.30Magasin Du NordKongens Nytorv 13Copenhagen K

ART MEETS FUR EXHIBITION AT BIRGER CHRISTENSENFriday 17.00-19.00Saturday 12:00-14:00Birger ChristensenØstergade 38Copenhagen K

MARIMEKKO FASHION LAUNCH CELEBRATIONFriday 16.00MarimekkoKøbmagergade 13Copenhagen K

KADK EXHIBITION: THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF TOMORROWFriday – SundaySkt Petri HotelKrystalgade 22Copenhagen K

OPEN TO ALL

WANT A CAREER IN THE DANISH FASHION

INDUSTRY?

FASHIONFORUM.DK



February 5

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THE DAILY

1

3

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN

2

BACKSTAGE

1 — BY MALENE BIRGER2 — MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN3 — BY MALENE BIRGER

Documents

Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily Number 3