CLIMATE SMART INTENSIVE GARDENING

Practical adaptations to standard backyard gardening

Sustainable Oceans and Forests through Equitable Development (SOFEDev.), works on climate change issues from many aspects, e.g. adaptation, mitigation, and resilience building. SOFEDev. utilizes the backdrop of climate change to further focus its attention on broader issues of poverty and disempowerment via its ecosystem-based approach towards adaptation. SOFEDev. works strategically with many United Nations agencies and international NGOs regionally in Southeast Asia on efforts to link stakeholders to grounded capacity development approaches that bring science and sociology together to understand and address key climate change and development challenges faced by communities, institutions, and governance agencies.

Forum Syd is a democracy and rights organization. We challenge the abuse of power, oppression and discrimination as a means of reducing poverty in the world, and do so in association with our Swedish member organizations and thousands of volunteers the world over. For more information, go to www.forumsyd.org/international.

The Joint Climate Change Initiative (JCCI) is a collaborative effort by three international organizations in Cambodia - Cord, DCA/CA and Forum Syd – with the chief aim to raise the capacity of national NGOs on climate change mitigation, adaptation and resilience through project mainstreaming into existing programmes.

HOW TO USE THIS MATERIAL

This material is a step by step guide to set up a simple but effective climate smart intensive garden (CS-IG), in your back yard or on a bigger scale. The elements and techniques of CS-IG presented in this document can be performed separately. However, CS-IG is designed to work as a system and therefore it’s recommended to combine several or all of the elements for the best resul. FINALLY, follow the instructions and, GET OUT THERE AND DO IT!

Written in May 2012 by: Robert W. Solar (SOFEDev) - has been the lead consultant for the JCCI from the start, in facilitating workshops throughout the learning cycle, to developing the project’s learning material, and the mentoring of Cambodian Advisors on many topics.

For contact: sofedev@gmail.com Johannes Nilsson – is a Communication and Climate Change Project Officer at Forum Syd in Cambodia and has worked with the JCCI since January 2011.

For contact: johannes.nilsson@forumsyd.org

Why Climate Smart Intensive Gardening? Climate change is presenting new challenges to local farmers and backyard farmers - from changing and unpredictable seasons and rainfall patterns, stronger and more frequent storms to an increased amount of invasive pests. In addition to this, farmers have not always taken neither sustainable, nor environmental friendly approaches when farming; for example, excessive use of fertilizers and pesticides and poor soil management. Responding to these challenges, the Joint Climate Change Initiative (JCCI) has come together with Sustainable Oceans and Forests through Equitable Development (SOFEDev), to bring a wealth of tried and tested experiences together in a simple and efficient way of improved backyard farming… Climate Smart Intensive Gardening (CS-IG).

What can I expect from CS-IG? Through small inputs and adjustments in gardening techniques, the four (4) element approach to CS-IG results in lower on-farm cost inputs, higher production rates, and assurance from the impacts of climate change. As examples:

Vegetable crop production on average, from seed to harvest in 6 weeks;

Soil rehabilitation and stabilization;

Decrease in water needs through improvements in soil water retention and protection against evaporation;

Improvement in household food security, safety, and nutrition; and

A small-scale commercial livelihood option under limiting land conditions (quality and space).

CS-IG improves your backyard garden by:

Protecting garden soils and plants from heavy rains and storms;

Protecting garden plants from heat and strong sunlight;

Reducing the amount of water needed for plants to grow;

Protecting garden plants from pest infestations; and

Taking an organic approach to food production.

A GARDEN VULNERABLE TO CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS.

What do I need to start CS-IG farming? For the efficient use of land and resources need, recommended is to establish a two (2) garden plot system (each 10m X 1m) using two interrelated farming techniques on a land area of approximately 20m

2. This size of farm will

not only meet a variety of household vegetable needs, but also provide for small-scale livelihood benefits to be realized.

Where can CS-IG work in the natural environment? The answer is simple… just about anywhere. As noted, space is required, but the type of soil you are starting with is most important, e.g. less fertile… more ‘Gathered Materials’ are needed to establish the garden plot, the sandier the soil, again the more ‘Gathered Materials’ required to form a soil base for farming. Don’t worry, with poor soil conditions, the hard part is starting the rebuilding of the soil, afterwards, only maintenance is needed.

Purchased Materials Fine mesh net – green – 14m X 3m

(approx. cost 7-10$)

Clear plastic ground sheet – 1.5m x 10m (approx. cost 2$)

Plastic ties (approx. cost 0.50$)

Bamboo – 8 fresh lengths, approximately 10cm diameter (approx. cost 8$ total)

Gathered Materials Rice Husk – 1 Rice Mill Bag for every 3

meters of garden plot (6-7 bags in total)

Organic Compost – ½ to 1 Rice Mill Bag for every 3 meters of garden plot (6-7 bags in total)

The four (4) elements of

Climate Smart - Intensive Gardening (CS-IG)

Element #1

Prepare the Soil for your CS-IG

Plots.

Element #2

Prepare your Vegetable Garden

Nursery

Element #3

Composting for an Organic Garden

Element #4

Maintenance of your CS-IG System

START WITH THE SOIL Recommended is to build two (2) different types of garden plots to allow for a variety of vegetables. The only difference will be the above ground cover structure, what you do with the soil will be the same.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The soil must be entirely broken down, i.e. no lumps at all!

Element #1

Prepare the Soil

for your CS-IG Plots.

STEP 1 – OUTLINE THE PLOT. Recommended to be 1m X 10m. If the plots are side by side, leave at least 40cm between. The reason for the plots being 1m wide is to allow the farmer to work the plot from both sides, and to maximize the planting space.

STEP 2 – NOW YOU DIG. Recommended is to use a double dig method. This means digging down 40-50cm, or twice the depth of the standard farmer’s hoe blade at the least. Doing this will allow for air to enter the ground; promoting root growth, and to have the soil broken down well to allow for deeper root growth and water seepage. Also, the double dig will raise the planting bed significantly – again allowing for air to enter the soil effectively. This all means healthy and faster growing plants.

STEP 3 – ADD THE RICE HUSK. Use as recommended, and mix in completely. This means doing the double dig again. If you do this in a different direction as you did the first double dig, then even more of those ‘lumps’ will be broken down. There are two (2) reasons for adding the rice husk, 1) it will prevent the soil from lumping back together overtime, and 2) the rice husk will retain water in the soil at all depths for the roots of the plants to access. There is an added benefit. When the rice husk decomposes this provides nutrients.

CAUTION: Compost should have a fresh smell and be made only of a plant and soil mix, with the addition of some manure (see Element 3: Composting for more information). Careful, too much compost will damage the young plants. Do not exceed what has been recommended. As an option, many farmers do have composted rice husk available… they have added manure to the mix and kept this in a sealed rice bag (see Step 4).

STEP 5 – STABILIZE THE SOIL. Steps 2 to 4 will raise the planting bed a lot, and the soil will be less compacted. However, it does leave the soil in a vulnerable position to extreme rainfall, storms, and runoff. Needed is to surround the plot with bamboo, i.e. protecting the soil from climate change impacts and keeping it in one place... protecting your investment.

STEP 4 – ADD THE COMPOST. Use as recommended, and mix into only the top half of the soil bed you have prepared. This is done to ensure that the newly planted vegetable seedling have a healthy start.

A. PREPARING THE BAMBOO

Bamboo strips (smooth, 2.5cm wide and according to the length required)

Remove all sharp edges from the bamboo so the net can move freely without getting stuck or damaged when pulled back and forth to allow the farmer access to the plants.

B. SETTING THE ARCHES

Do not make the bamboo frame higher than 1m tall. The higher the frame, very strong winds can damage it, and the wider the net you will need to totally cover the frame.

C. INSTALLING LENGTH SUPPORTS

Install length supports along the frame connecting the arches making the structure more stable.

D. INSTALLING THE NET

This is where it becomes important that the bamboo is smooth.

Place the net over the bamboo structure and allowing extra net that can be folded under the bamboo to keep bugs out.

6a. Net covered

plot structure

C

A

D

B

BEFORE YOU PLANT: It is recommended that the planting bed be watered 2 times over a

week before planting, and the soil being overturned each time. This helps even out the nutrients and makes the soil softer for seed and seedling root growth.

The net covered plot protects young seedling from the harsh sunrays and heat, breaks up strong rainfall that can damage plants, and keeps pests out. The shading from the net also reduces water evaporation. This means less water is required, important for areas that experience drought conditions.

Helpful hints

SOIL PREPARATION FOR PLANTING. It is recommended that the planting bed be watered

two (2) times over a week before planting, with the soil being overturned each time. This helps even out the nutrients and makes the soil softer for seed and seedling root growth. Afterwards, move to steps B to D.

PLOT SYSTEM:

The two (2) types of plot systems can be combined, e.g. putting a net-frame and net over the plastic sheet.

A. SIZING THE PLASTIC

The plastic should be cut 50cm wider than the width of the plot, but 30cm shorter than the length of the plot. Having the ends of the plot open will allow for needed ventilation and rainfall drainage.

B. SETTING THE PLASTIC

Before moving the plastic sheet into place, place a light cover of straw (see left photo above) over the entire planting bed (approx. 4cm thick). This will provide space for air movement and keep the ground cooler – better for the plants, and reduces water loss to evaporation.

Place the plastic cover sheet over the plot, pulling the sheet under the bamboo on the long side, and out as shown in the photo above. This will hold the plastic sheet in place and allow for rainfall drainage slowly. Note: if the knots on the bamboo are not cut and smoothed away, setting the plastic is very difficult.

It does help to make small cuts in the plastic to get around stakes holding the bamboo structure in place and, make sure the plastic is set smooth with no wrinkles.

C. PREPPING FOR PLANTING

Cut round holes in the plastic sheet where seedlings are to be placed. Because this type of plot system is used for larger plants, e.g. tomatoes, eggplants etc., no more than three holes across the width should be cut in. Follow the spacing options given in the illustration. Water directly into the holes.

6b. Plastic covered

plot structure

Helpful hints

The plastic covered plot structure provides all the same benefits underground as the net covered plot structure. What is different is that the plastic cover enhances soil moisture retention considerable by returning evaporated water back into the soil (= less water usage), as well, the open structure (no net) allows for bigger/ taller plants to be grown.

WHY DO I NEED A NURSERY? Especially in tropical climates, plant seeds and seedlings are at high risk. For example, many farmers lose the seeds they plant directly into the ground from ants running off with them; many are lost to rainwater run- off. Additionally, germinating seeds run the same risks and more. So why not have a nursery where you are the one in control, not nature! The nursery for a backyard vegetable garden is very simple; it is a simple wooden box. This wooden box should be kept near the home and in a place that has morning sunlight and afternoon shade, is well ventilated, and away from strong winds and rain.

Element #2

Prepare your Vegetable Garden

Nursery

Helpful hints

A. THE NURSERY BOX

Suggested is to construct a wooden box 60cm X 25cm X 8cm deep. Use a wood construction, experience has show that the use of plastic containers cause the box to mold and effect the seeds and germinating seedlings in a bad way.

On the bottom of the box, small drainage holes should be made throughout, e.g. 3-4mm in diameter.

B. PLANTING THE SEEDS

Before planting seeds, add good quality soil to the box (70% soil, 20% compost, and 10% rice husk) at least 6cm deep.

Plant all seeds to a depth of 2cm in several rows regardless of manufacture instructions. Hence, you will be transplanting the seedlings.

Keep the seed box moist, but not wet. Watering every two days should be good, but don’t let it dry out.

C. TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS

Seedlings should be at a four (4) ‘leaf’ stage (this does not include the first two little cotyledon leaves that have fallen off). Or, when the seedling reaches a height of 5cm or more.

Hardening off – this means to toughen up the root so it is not damaged during transplanting. Two days before you transplant the seedlings, stop watering the nursery box. On the third day, water the nursery box really well to loosen the soil around the seedlings, i.e. the soil around the seedling should drop away.

Plant each seedling closer together than that recommended by the seed supplier, e.g. approximately 25% closer. Your vegetable plot’s soil is of high quality if you have followed the CS-IG approach outlined; now less restricted by nutrient supply to plant roots than most conventional approaches.

COMPOST MIX INGREDIENTS

80% LEAVES, straw, grasses, and vegetable plant waste are best for organic matter. Although some people use

kitchen waste, this does come with complications, e.g. pathogens, so it is best just to avoid using kitchen waste. 5% ANIMAL MANURE, pig manure is best, followed by cow manure. It is important to completely dry any type of

manure in the hot sun before adding to the compost pile. This helps to eliminate pathogens. 15% CLEAN SOIL (no garbage within). This can come from the garden itself, and/ or the surrounding area.

Remember, using the CS-IG approach, your garden beds will rise a lot, hence, some soil can be removed for composting, and eventually it will find its way back to the garden.

Element #3

Composting for an Organic Garden

What is compost? Compost is organic matter that has been decomposed and recycled as a fertilizer and soil supplement. Compost is a key ingredient in organic farming. At the simplest level, the process of composting simply requires making a heap of wetted organic matter (leaves and vegetable waste) and waiting for the materials to break down into humus after a period of months. Composting is the backbone/ key-supporting element to the CS-IG approach. It’s all about going organic and getting rid of the use of chemical fertilizers. There are two (2) approaches to composting, hot and cold. Cold composting is a slower process, up to one year, hot composting takes 2 – 3 months; the ingredients are the same.

WARNING: Never put meat scraps in the compost pile, this will lead to pathogens and human illness.

PATHOGENES AND COMPOSTING A pathogen is a ‘germ’ that causes disease in its host; the host can be an animal, including humans, or a plant and can survive a long time, especially in contaminated soil. Livestock and poultry manures naturally contain a wide range of bacteria, viruses and protozoa, i.e. pathogens. Some of these are known for their harmful effects on people. Using proper composting procedures can drastically reduce the number of pathogens in manure. In general, the higher the compost temperature and the longer the storage, the less likely pathogens will survive. One way of making safe compost is to dry manure completely before adding to the compost mixture and to maintain the new compost temperature above 55ºC for at least 3 days, e.g. by wrapping is black plastic.

A. STARTING OFF

First, do not dig a pit/ hole for the compost to sit in; air needs to enter into the pile of organic matter to help the decaying process… not rotting process that happens if air cannot get in.

Plan a rotating style compost. This means having 2 or 3 sections to your compost pile that are ready when your garden needs compost. The benefit of this is always having good and clean compost ready when you want.

B. BUILDING THE HOLDING STRUCTURE

Recommended is to have a 1.5m X 3m rectangle compost structure, and this can be divided into 2 or 3 sections. The height of the compost fence is 1m. The fence can be made with local materials, e.g. bamboo, large branches and/ or posts. The fence’s purpose is to hold the plastic in place around the sides.

Line the fence with black plastic and do not cover the ground with the plastic… the compost needs to breath. Allow enough plastic sheeting to be above the compost fence, i.e. after filling each section the remaining plastic will be used to cover the top.

C. FILLING THE COMPOST

Fill the compost sections with the organic mix. All sections to be filled at the start; refill each section as they are used.

Make sure that the organic compost mix is well mixed, then water the mixture lightly (moist but not wet) before closing up the section with the plastic.

It is recommended to mix the compost mixture 1 time every month. If the compost mixture is dry, lightly water.

Important is not to wrap the compost sections tightly with the plastic. Just use the plastic to cover the mix gently to allow for air to get in (some rainwater getting in is ok, as long as the mixture is moist… not wet).

The compost is ready to use when it appears dark in color and has a fresh earthy smell. There should be no recognizable leaves, straw and/ or vegetable waste visible. On average, this will take 2 – 3 months.

MAKING YOUR HOT COMPOST

First, making compost for a hot or cold compost pile is the same, except, with the hot compost steps are taken to wrap the compost pile, usually in a black plastic cover to allow it to heat up. This has two advantages, speed, and the removal of pathogens because of the heat generated inside the pile. A HOT compost will reach temperatures of 50 – 60Co to accomplish this. Hence, any compost pile must reach these temperatures for at least 2 days to kill unwanted pathogens to make it safe for gardening.

If insects are a problem, you can use an organic spray composed of the following and how:

1. 1 hand full of raw garlic, 1 hand full of onion, ¼ hand full of chilies. 2. Smash, and mix with 1.5 liters of clean water; boil for 10 to 15 minutes, cool, and

remove the solids. 3. Mix the liquid with another 3 liters of clean water, and add ½ teaspoon of liquid

soap, and lightly stir. 4. Apply the organic spray once every week or two weeks; adjust the amount of solid

ingredients as needed. Hence, always observe what is happening in your garden.

SOIL MAINTENANCE

After each harvest, the plot area must be re-double dug. Additionally, it is advisable to, again, add both rice husk and compost to the soil mixture as per instructions given in Element 1. In most cases, a little less can be used. Don’t worry; the digging will be a lot easier.

If you feel the garden needs a nutrient boost, and are thinking of adding animal manure directly to the soil, don’t, unless it has been dried completely and turned into fine grains. Then this can be spread thinly on the garden from time to time. Dried chicken manure mixed with rice husk also works well, but too much can make the soil acidic and harm plant growth.

PLANT MAINTENANCE

Element #4

Maintenance of your CS-IG System

It is important to till lightly and break up the soil around each plant every 3 to 4 days, approximately 3 to 8cm deep (8cm when they are well established plants) to allow air to enter the soil. Be careful not to damage the roots.

ROTATING AND LINKING YOUR CROP TO THE ELEMENTS

It is good to move your vegetable types around your garden plot system, e.g. if you planted legumes in one place, plant them in a different place for the next crop. This ensures the soils remain balanced, and reduces the chance of soil born pathogens becoming established within the garden.

If you have a large garden plot area, more than 40m2, it is good to move your vegetable types around your garden plot system, e.g. if you are planting lettuce in one place, plant in another place next time. This ensures that pests do not take hold in a particular area of the garden plot system.

Plan harvest, nursery, and soil turnover events. For example, 1. One week before harvest, start your vegetable seed nursery. After harvest, the

garden plots need to be prepared for the next crop; this takes 1 week. Hence, the nursery will usually take 2 weeks to be ready.

2. Plan your composting around your harvest, 6 to 8 weeks between each. Using a three (3) section compost system means compost will always be available.