Citroën BXService and Repair Manual

Models covered

Citroën BX Hatchback & Estate models with petrol engines (inc. GTi, 16 valve & special/limited editions)1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc

Does not cover diesel engine variants or 4x4 models

I M Coomber and Christopher Rogers

© Haynes Publishing 1997

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced ortransmitted in any form or by any means, electronic ormechanical, including photocopying, recording or by anyinformation storage or retrieval system, without permission inwriting from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 190 1

British Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, SomersetBA22 7JJ, England

Haynes PublishingSparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ ,England

Haynes North America, Inc861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes S.A.147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska ABFyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(908 - 336 - 1AA12)

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRST1 2 3

LIVING WITH YOUR CITROEN BXIntroduction Page 0•4

Safety First! Page 0•5

Roadside RepairsIntroduction Page 0•6

If your car won’t start Page 0•6

Jump starting Page 0•7

Wheel changing Page 0•8

Identifying leaks Page 0•9

Towing Page 0•9

Weekly ChecksIntroduction Page 0•10

Underbonnet check points Page 0•10

Engine oil level Page 0•11

Coolant level Page 0•11

Hydraulic fluid level Page 0•12

Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12

Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•13

Electrical systems Page 0•14

Battery Page 0•14

Wiper blades Page 0•15

Tyre pressures Page 0•15

Lubricants, fluids and capacities Page 0•16

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and ServicingServicing Specifications Page 1•2

Maintenance schedule Page 1•4

Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAULEngine and Associated Systems150 engine repair procedures Page 2A•1

171 and 159 engine repair procedures Page 2B•1

K1G engine repair procedures Page 2C•1

D6C engine repair procedures Page 2D•1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models Page 4A•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Bosch LE3 Jetronic injection Page 4B•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Motronic injection Page 4C•1

Fuel and exhaust systems - Magneti Marelli injection Page 4D•1

Ignition system - carburettor models Page 5A•1

Ignition system - fuel injection models Page 5B•1

Starting and charging systems Page 5C•1

TransmissionClutch Page 6•1

Manual gearbox Page 7A•1

Automatic transmission Page 7B•1

Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and SuspensionHydraulic system Page 9•1

Braking system Page 10•1

Suspension and steering Page 11•1

Body EquipmentBodywork and fittings Page 12•1

Body electrical systems Page 13•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 13•16

REFERENCEDimensions and weights Page REF•1

Conversion factors Page REF•2

Buying spare parts Page REF•3

Vehicle Identification Page REF•3

General repair procedures Page REF•4

Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5

Tools and working facilities Page REF•6

MOT test checks Page REF•8

Fault finding Page REF•12

Glossary of technical terms Page REF•19

Index Page REF•23

Contents

The Citroën BX was introduced in France in October of 1982 andbecame available in the UK in September 1983. The original modelsavailable in the range were the BX, BX 14 E, BX 14 RE, BX 16 RS and BX16 TRS. The types of engine, transmission and equipment fitted beingdependent on the model and the body design being that of a Hatchback.

For the 1985 model year, the BX 19 GT was made available for thedriver requiring a higher performance model. Also in 1985, the BXLeader replaced the BX and BX 14 models, the Leader being fitted withthe same engine and transmission as the BX 14. In the second half of1985 the Estate was introduced, two versions being available, the BX16 RS Estate and the BX 16 TRS Estate.

Changes for the 1987 model year included the introduction of the BX16 RE Hatchback, the BX 19 GTi (fuel injection and ABS braking), theBX 19 GTi 16v (16 valve engine) and the replacement for the BX 19 GT,the BX 19 TRS. Also, a BX 19 TRS Estate fitted with automatictransmission became available. The facia and instruments weremodified on all models, with round instruments being used. Otheraesthetic improvements were made to improve the externalappearance of certain models.

For the 1988 model year, all BX 14 models were equipped with theK1G engine with 2CA type 4 or 5-speed manual gearbox.

For the 1989 model year, BX 16 and BX 19 models were equippedwith the BE3 5-speed manual gearbox to replace the earlier BE1 5-speed type.

In early 1990, BX 19 TZi Hatchback and Estate models becameavailable, these being equipped with catalytic converters.

In late 1992, BX 16 TXi catalytic converter equipped Hatchback andEstate models were added to the range.

On all models, the engine and transmission is mounted transverselyand drives the front wheels through two driveshafts. The transmissionavailable (depending on model type) is a 4 or 5-speed manual gearboxor a 4-speed automatic unit.

All models are extremely comfortable to ride in, thanks to thehydropneumatic suspension and luxurious interior trim. The uniquedesign suspension is self-levelling and the ride height is maintainedautomatically over all road conditions. A ground clearance lever insidethe car may be used to adjust the ride height when travelling overrough ground, this also makes changing a roadwheel much simpler.

Your Citroën BX ManualThe aim of this Manual is to help you get the best value from your

vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what workmust be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give alogical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.However, it is hoped that you will use the Manual by tackling the workyourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the carinto a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhapsmost important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs agarage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The Manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function ofthe various components so that their layout can be understood. Thenthe tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-stepsequence.

AcknowledgementsThanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrationsshowing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils, who providedlubrication data. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Citroën(UK) Limited and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due toSykes-Pickavant Limited, who supplied some of the workshop tools,and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production ofthis Manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in thismanual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and designchanges during the production run of a particular vehicle of whichthey do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authorsor publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, oromissions from the information given.

0•4 Introduction

The Citroën BX Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated andenthusiastic people working in close co-operation. Theteam responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Ian CoomberChristopher Rogers

Sub-editors Sophie YarCarole Turk

Editor & Page Make-up Steve ChurchillBob Jex

Workshop manager Paul Buckland

Photo Scans John MartinPaul TanswellSteve Tanswell

Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximumenjoyment from your car. By carrying out routinemaintenance as described you will ensure your car’sreliability and preserve its resale value.

Citroën BX 19 GTiCitroën BX 16 TRS

Safety first! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous.This page shows just some of the potentialrisks and hazards, with the aim of creating asafety-conscious attitude.

General hazardsScalding• Don’t remove the radiator or expansiontank cap while the engine is hot.• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid orpower steering fluid may also be dangerouslyhot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning• Beware of burns from the exhaust systemand from any part of the engine. Brake discsand drums can also be extremely hotimmediately after use.

Crushing• When working under or neara raised vehicle,alwayssupplement thejack with axlestands, or usedrive-onramps.Neverventureunder a car whichis only supported by a jack.• Take care if loosening or tightening high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.Initial loosening and final tightening shouldbe done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour isexplosive. • Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights(including pilot lights) anywhere near avehicle being worked on. Also beware ofcreating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’twork on the fuel system with the vehicle overan inspection pit.• Another cause of fire is an electricaloverload or short-circuit. Take care whenrepairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a typesuitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock • Ignition HTvoltage can bedangerous,especially topeople with heartproblems or apacemaker. Don’twork on or near theignition system withthe engine running orthe ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed. Mains power points shouldbe protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which israpidly fatal if inhaled.Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut.• Fuel vapour is alsopoisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances• Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice.• Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket.• Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette). It can also cause skinburns on contact.

Asbestos• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaledor swallowed. Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings.When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazardsHydrofluoric acid• This extremely corrosive acid is formedwhen certain types of synthetic rubber, foundin some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, areexposed to temperatures above 4000C. Therubber changes into a charred or stickysubstance containing the acid. Once formed,the acid remains dangerous for years. If itgets onto the skin, it may be necessary toamputate the limb concerned.• When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use.

The battery• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery.• The hydrogen gas given off by the batteryis highly explosive. Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby. Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads.

Air bags• Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally. Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia. Special storageinstructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure. Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands,face or any other part of the bodyto injector spray; the fuel can

penetrate the skin with potentially fatalresults.

Remember...DO• Do use eye protection when using powertools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream toprotect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodicallythat all is well when working alone on thevehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair wellout of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, beforeworking on the vehicle – especially theelectrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jackingequipment has a safe working load ratingadequate for the job.

A few tipsDON’T• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy componentwhich may be beyond your capability – getassistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or takeunverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slipand cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying aroundwhere someone can trip over them. Mopup oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in ornear a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairsThe following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will findmore detailed fault finding information at the back of themanual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motordoesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure theselector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminalsare clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If theheadlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, thebattery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting(see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the startermotor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank?M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obviousdampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosolproduct (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel systemelectrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectorand HT leads.

Check that the HT lead connections atthe distributor are clean and secure.A Check that the HT lead connections at

the spark plugs are clean and secure.B Check that the HT and LT leadconnections at the ignition coil are cleanand secure.

C

Check the security and condition of thebattery connections.D

Check all wiring block connectors areclean and secure.ECheck that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them

with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using abooster battery, observe the followingprecautions:

4 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignition isswitched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery isthe same voltage as the dischargedone in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you outof trouble, but you must correctwhatever made the battery goflat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

1 The battery has been drained byrepeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2 The charging system is not workingproperly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault oralternator itself faulty).

3 The battery itself is at fault(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the flatbattery

Connect the other end of the red lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the boosterbattery.

Connect one end of the black jump leadto the negative (-) terminal of thebooster battery

Connect the other end of the blackjump lead to a bolt or bracket on theengine block, well away from thebattery, on the vehicle to be started.

1 2 3

4

Make sure that the jump leads will notcome into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of theengine.

5

Start the engine using the boosterbattery, then with the engine running atidle speed, disconnect the jump leads inthe reverse order of connection.

6

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

With the handbrake applied and engineset to idle, move ground clearanceselector lever to maximum height position.

Wheel changingSome of the details shown here will varyaccording to model. For instance, the locationof the spare wheel and jack is not the sameon all cars. However, the basic principlesapply to all vehicles.

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit byother traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary ofpassing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted bythe job in hand.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks.

M Stow the jack and tools in the correctlocations in the car.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel justfitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have apressure gauge with you, drive slowly tothe nearest garage and inflate the tyre tothe right pressure.

M Have the damaged tyre or wheel repairedas soon as possible.

Use the wheel brace to slightly loosen thebolts of the wheel to be removed.

Locate the jack in the correct jackingpoint and raise the vehicle so that thewheel is clear of the ground.

Undo and remove the wheel bolts andremove the wheel.

Remove the spare wheel and jack.Turn the wheelbrace 6 to 8 turns to lowerthe spare wheel carrier.1 2 3

4

Fit the spare wheel, nipping tight thebolts. Lower to the ground and tightenthe bolts to correct torque setting.

7 Reset the ground clearance lever tonormal driving position before using thevehicle.

8

5 6

PreparationM When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so.M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary. M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.M Apply the handbrake.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite theone being removed – a couple of largestones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece ofwood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

Roadside repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourselfhaving to get a tow home – or of course youmay be helping somebody else. Long-distancerecovery should only be done by a garage orbreakdown service. For shorter distances, DIYtowing using another car is easy enough, butobserve the following points:M Use a proper tow-rope – they are notexpensive. The vehicle being towed mustdisplay an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window.M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’position when the vehicle is being towed, sothat the steering lock is released, and that thedirection indicator and brake lights will work.M Only attach the tow-rope to the towingeyes provided.

M Before being towed, release the handbrakeand select neutral on the transmission (Referto the Warning on the right).M The driver of the car being towed mustkeep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoidsnatching.M Make sure that both drivers know the routebefore setting off.M Only drive at moderate speeds and keepthe distance towed to a minimum. Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowingdown at junctions.M Remember that if the engine is not running,there will be no hydraulic pressure (Refer tothe Warning on the right).

Warning: BX, BX14 and Leaderwith manual gearbox and allautomatic transmission modelsshould be towed with the front

wheels clear of the ground. If this isimpossible, restrict towing speed to 30MPH and distance to 30 miles maximum.Disregard of these instructions may causetransmission damage due to lack oflubrication. If in doubt, do not tow, ortransmission damage may result.Once the reserve of hydraulic pressure hasbeen exhausted, the footbrake will notwork and the handbrake will have to beused instead. Power steering assistance(when applicable) will also be lost.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, orobvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needsinvestigating. It can sometimes be difficult todecide where the leak is coming from,especially if the engine bay is very dirtyalready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blownrearwards by the passage of air under the car,giving a false impression of where theproblem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oilsand fluids are poisonous. Washthem off skin, and change out ofcontaminated clothing, withoutdelay.

Identifying leaksThe smell of a fluid leakingfrom the car may provide aclue to what’s leaking. Somefluids are distinctively

coloured. It may help to clean the carcarefully and to park it over some cleanpaper overnight as an aid to locating thesource of the leak.Remember that some leaks may onlyoccur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystallinedeposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks whichneed only take a few minutes to carry out, butwhich could save you a lot of inconvenienceand expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skillor special tools, and the small amount of timethey take to perform could prove to be verywell spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition andpressures, will not only help to stop themwearing out prematurely, but could also saveyour life.

M Many breakdowns are caused by electricalproblems. Battery-related faults are particularlycommon, and a quick check on a regular basiswill often prevent the majority of these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, thefirst time you might know about it is whenyour brakes don't work properly. Checkingthe level regularly will give advance warning ofthis kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the costof repairing any engine damage will be fargreater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

§ BX 16 REAll other models similar

A Engine oil level dipstick (may

be at front or rear of engine)

B Engine oil filler cap

C Coolant filler cap

D Hydraulic fluid reservoir

E Screen washer fluid reservoir

F Battery

Underbonnet check points

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil levelBefore you start4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,or at least 5 minutes after the engine has beenswitched off.

The correct oilModern engines place great demands on theiroil. It is very important that the correct oil foryour car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids andcapacities”).

Car Carel If you have to add oil frequently, you shouldcheck whether you have any oil leaks. Placesome clean paper under the car overnight,and check for stains in the morning. If thereare no leaks, the engine may be burning oil(see “Fault Finding”).l Always maintain the level between theupper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).If the level is too low severe engine damagemay occur. Oil seal failure may result if theengine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checkedimmediately after driving thevehicle, some of the oil willremain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccuratereading on the dipstick!

Depending on engine type, the dipstick islocated either at the back or the front ofthe engine (see “Underbonnet Check

Points” on pages 0•10 for exact location).Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel removeall oil from the dipstick. Insert the cleandipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of thedipstick, which should be between theupper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")

mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raisethe level from the lower mark to the uppermark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; afunnel may help to reduce spillage. Add

the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstickoften. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt toremove the expansion tankpressure cap when the engineis hot, as there is a very greatrisk of scalding. Do not leaveopen containers of coolantabout, as it is poisonous.

Car Carel With a sealed-type cooling system, addingcoolant should not be necessary on a regularbasis. If frequent topping-up is required, it islikely there is a leak. Check the radiator, allhoses and joint faces for signs of staining orwetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in thecooling system all year round, not just duringthe winter months. Don’t top-up with wateralone, as the antifreeze will become toodiluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with enginetemperature. To check the level, wait untilthe engine is cold then unscrew the filler

cap until a hissing sound is heard. When thehissing ceases, indicating that all pressure isreleased, slowly unscrew and remove the cap.If more hissing is heard, wait until it stopsbefore unscrewing the cap completely. At alltimes keep well away from the filler opening.

On early BX models, the coolant depth,when cold, must be 250 to 300 mm fromthe top of the filler neck. The engine oil

dipstick can be used to check the level butwipe it off before and after use. Later modelshave a tubular dipstick in the filler neck, thecoolant must be between the MIN and MAXmarks on the dipstick.

If necessary, add the recommendedmixture of water and antifreeze throughthe filler orifice, until the coolant is up to

the maximum level. Refit the cap, ensuring itis secure.

1 2 3

0•12 Weekly checks

Hydraulic fluid levelWarning:l Use only LHM mineralhydraulic fluid in the hydraulicsystem of the Citroën BX. Theuse of any other fluid will ruinthe rubber rings and seals. LHMfluid is green in colour. Keep thefluid, carefully sealed, in itsoriginal container.

Safety First!l If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up, this is an indication of a fluid leaksomewhere in the hydraulic system, whichshould be investigated immediately. TheCitroën BX relies on the main hydraulicreservoir to supply the hydropneumaticsuspension, the braking system and thepower steering (where fitted).

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not bedriven until the suspension, braking andsteering systems have been checked. Nevertake any risks where any of these systems areconcerned.

• Make sure that your car ison level ground.• Cleanliness is of greatimportance when dealing

with the hydraulic system, so take careto clean around the reservoir capbefore topping-up. Use only clean LHMfluid.

With the engine idling, move the groundclearance selector lever to the maximumheight position.

1 The hydraulic fluid reservoir is located onthe front of the right-hand side engine baybulkhead. Locate the hydraulic fluid sight

level indicator on the top of the reservoir. Theyellow indicator float (index) must be betweenthe two red rings on the sight level glass.

2

If topping-up is necessary, clean the fillercap and the surrounding area thenremove the cap.

3 Using genuine green LHM fluid, top-upthe reservoir until the indicator reachesthe upper red mark, then refit the cap and

switch off the engine. The difference betweenthe upper and lower red rings is approximately0.45 litre of fluid.

4

Screenwash additives not only keep thewinscreen clean during foul weather, they alsoprevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need itmost. Don’t top up using plain water as thescreenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather. On no account usecoolant antifreeze in the washer system -this could discolour or damage paintwork.

Screen washer fluid level

When topping-up each reservoir, ascreenwash additive should be added inthe quantities recommended on thebottle.

2The reservoirs for the windscreen and rearwindow washer systems are located oneither side of the engine compartment, atthe rear.

1 Check the operation of the windscreenand rear window washers. Check that thescreenwash supply pipe to each wiper

blade is correctly connected and free fromblockage.

3

Weekly checks 0•13

Tyre condition and pressureIt is very important that tyres are in goodcondition, and at the correct pressure - havinga tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harshbraking and acceleration, or fast cornering,will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As ageneral rule, the front tyres wear out fasterthan the rears. Interchanging the tyres fromfront to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result inmore even wear. However, if this iscompletely effective, you may have theexpense of replacing all four tyres at once!Remove any nails or stones embedded in thetread before they penetrate the tyre to causedeflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail sothat its point of penetration is marked. Thenimmediately change the wheel, and have thetyre repaired by a tyre dealer.Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,and clean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels mayalso become dented or buckled. A new wheelis very often the only way to overcome severedamage.

New tyres should be balanced when they arefitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balanceweights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, aswill the steering and suspension components.Wheel imbalance is normally signified byvibration, particularly at a certain speed(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration isfelt only through the steering, then it is likelythat just the front wheels need balancing. If,however, the vibration is felt through thewhole car, the rear wheels could be out ofbalance. Wheel balancing should be carriedout by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual checkThe original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the treaddepth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. Theband positions are indicated by a triangularmark on the tyre sidewall (A).

1 Tread Depth - manual checkAlternatively, tread wear can be

monitored with a simple, inexpensive deviceknown as a tread depth indicator gauge.

2 Tyre Pressure CheckCheck the tyre pressures regularly with

the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyrepressures immediately after the vehicle hasbeen used, or an inaccurate setting will result.The tyre pressures are shown on page 0•15.

3

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)Under-inflation will cause overheating of thetyre, because the tyre will flex too much, andthe tread will not sit correctly on the roadsurface. This will cause a loss of grip andexcessive wear, not to mention the danger ofsudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.Check and adjust pressuresIncorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)Repair or renew suspension partsHard corneringReduce speed!

Centre Wear

OverinflationOver-inflation will cause rapid wear of thecentre part of the tyre tread, coupled withreduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger ofshock damage occurring in the tyre casing.Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’styres to the higher pressures specified formaximum load or sustained high speed, don’tforget to reduce the pressures to normalafterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.Incorrect camber or castorRepair or renew suspension partsMalfunctioning suspensionRepair or renew suspension partsUnbalanced wheelBalance tyresIncorrect toe settingAdjust front wheel alignmentNote: The feathered edge of the tread whichtypifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

0•14 Weekly checks

BatteryCaution: Before carrying out any work on thevehicle battery, read the precautions given in"Safety first" at the start of this manual.4 Make sure that the battery tray is in goodcondition, and that the clamp is tight.Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and thebattery itself can be removed with a solutionof water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse allcleaned areas with water. Any metal partsdamaged by corrosion should be coveredwith a zinc-based primer, then painted.4 Periodically (approximately every threemonths), check the charge condition of thebattery as described in Chapter 5A.4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jumpstart your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-handside of the engine compartment. Theexterior of the battery should be

inspected periodically for damage such as acracked case or cover. If necessary, top-upusing distilled water, so that the plates arecovered by 6 mm of electrolyte.

1 Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)to ensure good electrical connections.You should not be able to move them.

Also check each cable (B) for cracks andfrayed conductors.

2

Battery corrosion can be kept to aminimum by applying a layer ofpetroleum jelly to the clamps andterminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) isevident, remove the cables from thebattery terminals, clean them with a small

wire brush, then refit them. Automotive storessell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

3 . . . as well as the battery cable clamps4

Electrical systems

4 Check all external lights and the horn.Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chap-ter 13 for details if any of the circuits arefound to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiringconnectors, harnesses and retaining clips forsecurity, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check yourbrake lights and indicatorsunaided, back up to a wall orgarage door and operate the

lights. The reflected light should show ifthey are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light orheadlight has failed, it is likely that a bulbhas blown and will need to be replaced.

Refer to Chapter 13 for details. If both stop-lights have failed, it is possible that the switchhas failed (see Chapter 10).

If more than one indicator light or tail lighthas failed it is likely that either a fuse hasblown or that there is a fault in the circuit

(see Chapter 13). The fuses are located in thepassenger compartment, beneath the lowertrim panel.

2 To remove a blown fuse, pull it fromposition. Fit a new fuse of the samerating, available from car accessory

shops. It is important that you find the reasonfor the fuse blowing (see Chapter 13).

31

Weekly checks and Tyre pressures 0•15

Front (bar) Rear (bar)

BX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 2.0

BX 14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 2.0

BX 14 Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 2.5

BX 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 2.1

BX 16 - automatic transmission (from 1987) . . . . . . . . 2.2 2.2

BX 16 Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 2.5

BX 19 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 2.2

BX 19 RE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 2.0

BX 19 Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3 2.5

BX 19 GTi:

No ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 2.2

ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 2.2

BX 19 GTi 16v:

Pre March 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.2 2.1

From March 1989 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 2.0Recommendations may vary. Consult owners handbook or a tyre specialist if in doubt

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades;if they are cracked or show any signs ofdeterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them. Wiper blades shouldbe renewed annually.

1 To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pullthe arm fully away from the screen until itlocks. Swivel the blade through 90°,

press the locking tab with your fingers andslide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

2

Tyre pressures (cold)

0•16 Lubricants, fluids and capacitiesComponent or system Lubricant or fluid CapacityEngine:

BX and BX14 (with gearbox) Multigrade engine oil, viscosity 150A engine - 4.5 litres (oil change)pre-August 1988 SAE 15W/40 or 20W/50, 150C engine - 5.0 litres (oil change)

(Duckhams QXR, QS,HypergradePlus or Hypergrade)

BX (from August 88) As above K1G engine - 3.5 litres (with filter)

BX16 and BX19 As above 171/159 engine 5.0 litres (oil change)

BX19 GTi 16v As above D6C engine - 5.3 litres (with filter)Cooling system Ethylene - glycol based antifreeze D6A/C/D engine - 7.1 litres

(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Others - 6.5 litresCoolant). Mixture in temperate climate- 25% antifreeze to 75% water

Manual gearbox:BX and BX14 pre-Aug. 88 N/A With engine

Later BX 14 (MA type) Gear oil, viscosity 75W/80W 2 litres(Duckhams PT75W/80 Gear Oil)

BX16 and BX19 (Type BE1) As above 2 litresBX16 and BX19 (Type BE3/5) As above Up to serial No. 2445106 - 2.2 litres

From serial No. 2445106 - 1.8 litresAutomatic transmission Dexron IID type ATF From dry - 6.5 litres

(Duckhams Uni-Matic) Drain and refill - 2.5 litresHydraulic system Green LHM fluid -

(Duckhams LHM fluid)Fuel system 97 to 99 RON leaded or 95 RON BX/BX14 - 44 or 52 litres

unleaded * BX16/BX19 - 52 or 66 litres* Note: Models fitted with catalytic converters MUST use unleaded fuel at all times

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. Thehigher the engine’s performance, the greaterthe demand on lubricants to minimise wear aswell as optimise power and economy.Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highesttechnical standards, meeting and exceedingthe demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating frictionWithout oil, the surfaces inside your enginewhich rub together will heat, fuse and quicklycause engine seizure. Oil, and its specialadditives, forms a molecular barrier betweenmoving parts, to stop wear and minimise heatbuild-up.

• Cooling hot spotsOil cools parts that the engine’s water-basedcoolant cannot reach, bathing the combustionchamber and pistons, where temperaturesmay exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine coolingsystem. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flowover the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engineOil washes away combustion by-products(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,transporting them to the oil filter, and holdingthe smallest particles in suspension until theyare flushed out by an oil change. Duckhamsoils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,and on the road.

Engine oil typesMineral oils are the “traditional” oils,generally suited to older engines and cars notused in harsh conditions. DuckhamsHypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are wellsuited for use in most popular family cars.Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel arespecially formulated for Diesel engines,including turbocharged models and 4x4s.Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art inlubricants, offering ultimate protection, but ata fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,for use in ultra-high performance engines.Semi-synthetic oils offer high performanceengine protection, but at less cost than fullsynthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choicefor hot hatches and hard-driven cars.

For help with technicalqueries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It isantisocial andillegal to dump oildown the drain.To find thelocation of yourlocal oil recyclingbank, call thisnumber free.