Circular Knitting Lyer,Mammel.pdf

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Preface

Content s

Readme

http://www.mayercie.com/en/index.htm


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(forme rly Knitting Tec hno logy)


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Th e A u th o r s

Chandrasekhar Iyer graduated in textile technology from the Uni-versity of Bo mba y, did a n M.S c. po st-grad uate s tudy a t the University

of Manchester and obtained his doctorate from the University of

Stuttgart. After gaining experience with spinning machinery makers,

the man-made fibre industry and in scientific research, he was a

Rea de r and tenured P rofes s or from 1972 in the Depa rtment of Textilesand Clothing at the Reutlingen University, from where he retired in

2002. He read on industrial processing engineering and technology in

the field of knitting, the planning and organisation of knitting mills as

well as filament production and processing. He also instructed in

a course for Industrial Master Fitters at Reutlingen. He still gives

lectures on a part-time basis, is responsible for staple and filament

yarn technology as well as industrial textiles in short courses for the

industry a nd do es oc ca ss ional consultancy wo rk.

He has published a number of articles – not only on knitting techno-

logy – in German, Indian and several European technical journals. As

Officer of International Relations in Reutlingen he was particularly

interested in fostering the exchange of students and lecturers with

foreign educational institutions and gave short-term lectures and

pa pers a t s everal of these universities .

In addition to his contribution to this book he is also responsible for

its English version.

Bernd Mammel wa s a lec turer from 1963 to 1999 in Reutlinge n a t the" Tec h" (Tec hnica l C olleg e), w hich is o ffic ia lly know n a s the Otto

J oha nnsen Tec hnikum. It has a n a ss oc ia ted o rga nisa tion w ith the

Reutlingen University and is in the same campus area. He wasresponsible for industrial process engineering and technology in the

field of knitting. He a lso ga ve pa rt-time lectures in ma chine d ra w ing in

the De pa rtment o f Textiles a nd C lothing a t the Reutlinge n University.

From 1992 until his retireme nt he w a s Hea d of the Tec hnica l Colleg e.

Bernd Mammel has strived since years for the further education of

sp ec ia lis ts . Apa rt from his tea ching a nd c ons ulta ncy w ork he is, in this

co nnection, a lso the a uthor of a number of technica l publica tions a nd

was the chairman of the examination committee of the Reutlingen

Chamber of Commerce and Industry in the course for Industrial

Mas ter Fitters in Textiles . In a dd ition w a s for 17 yea rs the Hea d o f the

VDI (Assoc ia tion of G erma n Engineers) w ork group o n Textiles a ndClothing at the Reutlingen Centre for textile education, which is one

of the large st in G ermany.

Wolfgang Schäch has worked in various knitting mills and in textilescientific research after completing his post-graduate study in

mec hanica l engineering a t the University of S tuttga rt. As a Rea der a t

the Reutlinge n University s ince 1965 he rea d on industria l proce s sing

engineering, technology and product designing in the field of knitting

in the Depa rtment of Textiles , w hich he a lso hea de d until he retired in2002.

As a long-time secretary of the German National Section of the

Interna tiona l Fede ration of Knitting Tec hnologists a nd a s Interna tiona l

General Secretary of this institution, he still stands up for the mainte-

nance of contacts and for the exchange of information between

experts on a national as w ell a s a n interna tiona l level.


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Iy er / Ma m m e l / Sc h ä c h

Ci r c u l a r K n i tt in g

Te c h n o l o g y P r o c e s s

S tr u c t u r e s Ya r n s

Q u a l i t y

R e p r i n t

s e c o n d e d it io n

b e i Me i se n b a c h B a m b e r g


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Third ed ition.

© 1992, 1995 and 2004,

Meisenb ac h G mbH, Fra nz-Ludwig-Stras se 7a, D -96047 Ba mberg (G ermany)

Die Deutsc he B ibliothek – C IP -Einheitsa ufnahme

Iyer, Chandrasekhar:

Circular knitting : technology, process, structures, yarns, quality /

Iyer/Mamme l /S chä ch. – 3., ed. – Ba mbe rg : Meisenb a ch, 2004

Dt. Ausg . u.d.T.: Iyer, Cha ndra s ekha r: Runds tricken

ISB N 3-87525-066-4

NE: Ma mmel, Bernd; S chä ch, Wolfg a ng

The velours upho lst ery fabric p ic tured on the co ver in orig ina l s ize

has bee n knitted on a MCP E mac hine by Mayer &Cie.,

diameter 30“, g aug e E20.

G round ya rn: P ES dte x 167f 32/1, plush ya rn: polya crylic Nm 50/2

Circular Knitting is trans la ted from G erman b y co -author Cha ndras ekhar Iyer. The

G erman orig inal e dition entitled Rundstricken . Theorie und Praxis der Maschentechnik

(ISBN 3-87525-052-4) has likewise been published by the publishing house

Meisenbach GmbH in Bamberg in 1992, 1995 and 2004.


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Contents V

Content s

0 1 Kn i t t in g Tec h n iq u e . . . 1

01.1 Fundamentals of stitch formation ... 1

01.1.1 400 years o f mechanica l s t itch formation .. . 1

01.1.2 An outline of knit ting machines . . . 6

01.1.3 St itch formation with la tch needles . .. 9

01.1.4 Structural elements in knit ted fabrics . . . 10

01.1.4.1 Loop … 1001.1.4.2 St it ch … 10 /Pla in s tit ch /Purl s t it ch/

Needle loo p / S inker loo p

01.1.4.3 Tuc k lo op … 10

01.1.4,4 Flo a ts titc h … 10

01.1.4.5 Weft … 10

01.1.4.6 Fille r … 10

01.1.5 Bas ic knitted s truc tures .. . 12

01.1.5.1 Arrangement of s tructural elements … 12

01.1.5.2 Pla in knit ted fabrics . . . 12

01.1.5.3 Double knit fabrics (rib fabrics) … 12

Double knit rib fabrics /

Double knit interlock fabrics

01.1.5.4 Double knit purl fabrics ... 12

01 .2 Processes for large circular knitting machines … 14

01.2.1 Plain (s ingle face) technique with la tch needles … 14

01.2.1.1 Res t or ground pos it ion, Pos . 1 .. . 16

01.2.1.2 Tucking-in posit ion, Pos. 2 . . . 16

01.2.1.3 Clearing pos it ion , Pos . 3 .. . 16

01.2.1.4 Ya rn pres enting pos ition, P os . 4 … 16

01.2.1.5 Cas t-on pos it ion, Pos . 5 . .. 1701.2.1.6 Knock-over pos it ion, Pos . 6 . . . 17

01.2.2 Single face relat ive technology with la tch needles . . . 18

01.2.3 C ompound need le technique . .. 20

01 .2.3.1 P la in tec hniq ue w ith co mpo und need les ... 20

01 .2.3.2 P lain relat ive technique with compound needles … 24

01.2.4 Rib te chniq ue ... 27

01.2.4.1 Co ordina tion betw een cylinder and dial grooves … 27

Rib se tting of c ylinder a nd d ia l /Interloc k setting of c ylinder

a nd d ia l /Co nversion from rib to interloc k setting

01.2.4.2 Coordinat ion between cylinder and dial cams . . . 29

S ynchronised timing b etwe en cylinder and dial cams

Dela yed timing b etwe en cylinder and dial cams /C onditions

for the use of delayed timing for dial and cylinder cams

01 2.5 P url tec hniq ue ... 38

01.2.5.1 Rib s t it ch format ion .. . 38

01.2.5.2 P url stitch formation a nd need le tra nsfer ... 38


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01.3 Characteristics of circular knitting machines ... 44

01.3.1 Mach ine p it ch and m achine gauge .. . 44

01.3.1.1 Mach ine pit ch .. . 44

01.3.1.2 English machine gauge . .. 44

01 3.1.3 P itch values for circular knitting machines

w ith sp ec ia l pattern de vice s a nd for sma ll circular knitting

mac hines ... 44

01.3.1.4 Relat ion between machine pitch, English gauge,machine nominal diameter and number of needles ... 44

01.3.1.5 Effect ive machine pitches (machine gauges) . . . 44

01.3.2 Machine nominal d iameter . .. 45

01.3.3 Number of feeders / feeder dens ity . .. 45

01.3.4 P roduction speed, number of mac hine revolutions . .. 45

01.3.5 Effic iency va lue /speed fac tor . .. 46

01.4 Machine elements ... 46

01.4.1 Fra me ... 46

01. 4.2 Ma c hine d rive ... 48

01.4.2.1 Mo to r ... 48

01.4.2.2 Number of revolutions of the machine . .. 49

01.4.2.3 B ra ke ... 51

01.4.2.4 Drive arrangement . .. 52

01.4.3 Knitt ing e lements . .. 52

01.4.3.1 Ne ed le s ... 53

01.4.3.2 Holding-down /Knocking-over sinkers . .. 58

01.4.3.3 Needle beds on circular knit ting machines . . . 60

01.4.4 Yarn feeder and it s correc t set ting . . . 61

01.4.5 Needle and s inker control units (cams) . .. 63

01. 4.5. 1 S lid ing c a ms .. 6501.4.5.2 Flexib le c ams . .. 66

01. 4.5, 3 C ha ng e a ble ca m s .. . 67

01.4.5.4 Alteration of course density through couliering . . . 68

Vertica l couliering /Dia gona l co uliering /C entra l co uliering /

Vertica l ad justment of nee dle d ia l

01. 4.6 Fa b ric ta ke -d ow n ... 72

01.4.6.1 Fabric s p read er . .. 72

01.4.6.2 Fabric tensioning and winding devices . . . 72

Fabric tensioning and winding devices with mechanical drive /

Fabric tensioning and winding devices with electrical drive

01.4.7 Ya rn s upply ... 79

01.4.7.1 Cone carrier device .. . 79

01.4.7.2 Yarn delivery devices (Yarn metering and s torag e devices

on circular knitting machines) ... 84

Ya rn delivery devices for co nsta nt ya rn delivery, ya rn metering

devices /Devices with constant yarn delivery per unit time,

Ya rn metering de vice s w ith ya rn res erve (P os itive ya rn

feed ers) /De vice s w ith va ria ble ya rn delivery per unit time a nd

yarn rese rve (S torage yarn feeders)

01.4.8 Monitoring and maintenance sys tems . .. 94

Yarn monitoring /Needle monitoring /Fabric monitoring /

Lubrica ting and oiling s ystems /C lea ning s ystems

VI Contents


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0 2 Nee d le Con tro l an d i t s Eq u ip m e n t . . . 97

02.1 Direct needle control ... 97

02.1.1 C ontro l through cam part s .. . 97

02.1.2 Control through pa t tern wheel . .. 98

02.2 Indirect needle control ... 101

02.2.1 Indirect needle control with fixed control sinkerarrangement ... 101

02.2.2 Indirect needle control through pattern drum .. . 103

02.3 Electronically controlled needle selectionon circular knitting machines ... 106

02.3.1 Needle control through film tape . .. 106

02.3.2 Needle control through machine memory . .. 108

02.3.3 Pa ttern design and production preparat ion . .. 111

0 3 A d di t io n a l E qu i p m e n t P a t t e r n i n g . .. 1 1 3

03.1 Equipment for fleecy fabrics ... 113

03.1.1 S im ple fle ec y ... 113

03.1.2 Three-thread fleecy . .. 113

03.2 Equipment for plush fabrics ... 118

Quality de mand s on plush

03.2.1 U npa tte rne d plus h ... 118

03.2.2 J a c q ua rd plus h ... 122

The c ons truction of the prese ntation tec hniq ue

03.3 Yarn changer devices / stripers ... 126

03.3.1 Yarn changer device with mechanica l control . .. 126

03.3.2 Yarn changer device with electronica l control . . . 128

03.4 Wrap finger technique ... 132

Ci r c u l a r K n i t ti n g Ma c h i n e s0 4 fo r Ga r m e n t Le n g t h F a b r i c s . .. 1 3 5

04.1 Rib and purl techniques ... 136

04.1.1 Fib re s a nd ya rns ... 136

04.1.2 S t itch dens ity and qua lity .. . 136

04.1.3 P e rfo rma nc e ... 136

04.2 Purl pullover circular knitting machine ... 137

04.2.1 Double select ion at the lower cylinder . .. 137

04.2.2 Selec tion a t the upper cylinder . .. 138

04.3 Rib pullover circular knitting machine ... 140

04.3.1 Free individual needle selection in the knitting feeders ... 141

04.3.2 Means of free select ion in the transfer feeders . . . 141

04.3.3 Princip le o f se lec tion . .. 142 Contents VII


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0 5 Ma e h i n e s fo r H i gh -P i l e F a b r i c s . . . 1 4 4

0 6 Ot h e r Ma c h i n e s .. . 1 4 6

06.1 Methods for loop transfer ... 146

06.1.1 Transferring of s inker loops . . . 146

06.1.2 Transferring of needle loops . .. 146

06.2 Machines for the production of transfer patterns ... 147

Cy linder trans fer feed er, c ontrol sinker ca m rang e /

Cylinder transfer feeder, needle cam range ... 150

0 7 K n i t te d a n d F a b r i c S t r u c t u r e s . .. 1 5 2

07.1 Pattern analysis of weft knits ... 152

07.1.1 Tools and technica l a ids .. . 152

07.1.2 Methodica l pa t tern ana lys is . .. 152

07.1.3 Representat ion of weft knit ted fabrics . . . 154

07.1.3.1 Representat ion through mesh structure . . . 154

07.1.3.2 Representation through technica l notation (yarn path) . . . 15407.1.3.3 Symbols used for representat ion of needles . . . 154

07.1.3.4 Representat ion of s tructural elements . . . 155

07.2 Basic structures ... 156

07.3 Patterned structures ... 156

07.3.1 P atterned s tructures with one needle type . .. 156

07.3.2 Pa t terned s t ructures with two needle types . . . 157

Plain structures /Rib patterned structures /

Rib pa tterned interloc k structures

07.3.3 P atterned s tructures with four needle types . .. 161

07.4 Plated structures... 162

07.5 Speciality structures... 162

Flee cy /Three -threa d fleec y /Interloc k flee cy / P lush

07.6 J acquard structures ... 163

07.6.1 Colour jacq uard s tructures .. . 163

Single jersey colour jacquard /Single jersey colour jacquard with

binding-in of floa ting ya rns (three-w a y tec hniq ue) /Rib c olour ja cq uard /

Horizo nta l striper b a cking /Vertica l striper b a cking /Tw ill ba cking

07.6.2 Rib relief jac quard s tructures . .. 166

Single relief rib jacquards /Double relief rib jacquard

07. 6.3 Rib tuc k ja c q ua rd ... 170

07. 6.4 Rib lo c k ja c q ua rd .. . 170

07.6.5 Rib trans fe r jacquard .. . 170VIII Contents


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07.7 Symbolic adjointmentbetween structure and process ... 171

Plain circular knitting machines ... 172

Rib circular knitting machines ... 178

07.8 Transposition of jacquard patternsonto a jacquard circular knitting machinewith mechanical indirect needle control ... 182

0 8 Yar n s for Circu lar Kn i t t in g .. . 18 8

08.1 Fibre materials ... 188

08.2 Count ... 190

08.2.1 Direc t sys tem and it s units . .. 19008.2.2 Indirec t sys tem and it s un its .. . 191

Metric number (Nm) /English number (Ne)

08.2.3 Count calculat ion and denotion for plies . . . 191

08.2.3.1 Ply with yarns of the same count . .. 194

Ca lcula tion of c ount on the direct s ystem / Denotion ba sed

on the direct system /Calculation of count on the indirect

system /Denotion based on the indirect system

08.2.3.2 P ly with yarns of differing counts . .. 194

Ca lcula tion of co unt on the direct s ystem / Denotion ba sed on

the direct sys tem /C a lculation of co unt bas ed on the indirect

system /Denotion based on the indirect system

08.3 Staple fibre yarns... 195

08.3.1 S p inning s ys te ms ... 195

08.3.1.1 Cot ton sp inning sys tem .. . 196

Ca rded ya rn /Combed ya rn

08.3.1.2 Wors ted sp inning sys tem . .. 197

08.3.1.3 Semi-wors ted sp inning sys tem . .. 197

08.3.1.4 Woollen spinning system .. 198

08.3.2 Spinning techniq ues for s taple fibre yarns . .. 198

08.3.2.1 Ring sp inning . .. 19808.3.2.2 Unconventional spinning techniques . . . 199

OE rotor spinning /Other spinning techniques: Friction

spinning /Air jet spinning /Cover spinning /Yarns with ply

resemblance /Self-twist spinning /Ply spinning

08.3.3 Comparison between ring a nd rotor yarns . . . 201

08.3.3.1 Process-based propert ies .. . 202

08.3.3.2 Fibre-based propert ies . . . 202

08.4 Filament yarns ... 203

08.4.1 The most important raw materials . .. 203

08.4.2 Filam ent ya rn t ypes .. . 203

08.4.2.1 Monofilament yarn .. . 203

08.4.2.2 Mult if ilament yarns .. . 203

08.4.2.3 Minifil yarns . .. 203

08,4.2.4 C oming led ya rn .. . 204

08.4.2.5 Microfilament yarn . . . 204 Contents IX


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08.4.3 Fla t and textured filament yarns . . . 204

08.4.3.1 Fa ls e tw is t proces s .. . 204

08.4.3.2 B icomp onent proces s .. . 206

08.4.3.3 Knit-de-knit process . . . 206

08.4.3.4 Air texturing process . . . 207

S ingle yarn /P arallel yarn /Co re-sheath ya rn

08.4.3.5 Other texturing processes . . . 208

08.4,3.6 Propert ies of textured yarns .. . 208

P rima ry prope rties : Extens ion a nd elas ticity /Volume /

S ec ond a ry properties : Weight /Dye ing b eha viour /

Hand le /P erspira tion /Air textured ya rn

08.5 Fibre blending in yarns and fabrics ... 209

08. 5.1 Typ es o f b le nd . .. 210

08.5.1.1 In timate b lending .. . 210

08.5.1.2 Core-sheath s truc tures . . . 210

Co vering /B ico mponent yarns /

Air textured ya rns /Ope n end ya rns

08.5.1.3 The rea l p ly .. . 211

08.5.1.4 C oming led ya rns . .. 211

08.5.1.5 Feeder b lend ing . . . 211

08.6 Yarn count and machine gauge ... 212

08.7 Knitting demands on yarns ... 216

08.7.1 Tenacity and breaking extension .. . 216

08.7.2 Ela s tic ity ... 218

08.7.3 Fric tio n ... 218

08.7.3.1 Waxing of s taple fibre yarns . .. 219

08.7.3.2 Finishing of f ilarment yarns . . . 220

08.7.3.3 Surface of yarn and abradant . .. 220

08. 7.4 Ya rn e ve nne ss .. . 221

08.7.5 Yarn count d evia t ion . .. 222

08.7.6 Take-off behaviour of yarns .. . 223

08.8 Yarn supply for circular knitting machines ... 224

08. 8.1 Dra w tw is t b ob b in ... 224

08. 8.2 Dra w w ind er b ob b in .. . 224

08. 8.3 C ro s s-w o und b ob b in .. . 224

08. 8.3. 1 P a c ka g e s iz e .. . 225

08. 8.3. 2 P a c ka g e s ha p e .. . 225

Cylindrica l sha pe /B ico nica l sha pe /C onica l sha pe

08.8.4 Winding methods for cross-wound bobbins .. . 226

08.8.4.1 R and om w ind ing . .. 226

08.8.4.2 Prec is ion winding .. . 226

08.8.4.3 Digit a l winding .. . 227

08. 8.5 Wind -o n s pe ed ... 227

08.8.6 P a c ka g e ha rd ne ss ... 228

08.8.7 Take-off yarn tens ion .. . 228

08.8.8 Fric t ion between yarn and cross-wound package . . . 229

08.8.9 Nega tive ya rn w ithd rawa l .. . 229

08.8.10 P osit ive yarn withdraw al . .. 229

08.9 Literature to chapter 08... 230X Contents


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0 9 Qu a l i ty a n d P r o d u c t i o n M o n i t o r i n g . .. 2 3 1

09.1 Faults and its causes in circular knitting ... 231

09.1.1 P re-req uisites for faultless knitwear production . .. 231

09.1.1.1 P re-req uisites on the circular knitting ma chine . . . 231

09.1.1.2 G eneral production conditions for knitting . . . 232

Selection of proper yarn count I Relation between knitted

structures and proc ess ing problems /S etting o f the

knitting machine /Yarn storage /Air conditioning

of the knitting pla nt /C lea ning of knitting ma chines

09.1.1.3 Yarn pre-requisites .. . 234

Influence of dyeing processes /Influence of spinning

proce ss es /Influence of the w inding proces s /

Fac tors a ffecting yarn prod uction / Rela tionship b etwe en

ya rn prope rties a nd knitted fab ric q ualities

09.1.2 Freq uent faults in knitted fab rics , their definition,

ca use a nd e limination ... 237

09.1.2.1 Definit ion of faults .. . 237

09.1.2.2 Causes of fau lt s and their avoidance . .. 238

Crac ks o r holes /Drop s titches /C loth fall-out /S nag s /

Tuck a nd do uble stitches /B unching-up / Vertica l stripes /

Horizo ntal stripes /S oil stripes /C olour fly /D isto rted stitches

09.1.3 Lite ra ture . .. 248

09.2 Operational data acquisition ... 248

09.3 Production calculations ... 250

1 0 Ap p en d a ge for T ab le s . .. 252

10.1 Machine pitch and machine gauge ... 252

10.2 Nominal machine diameters ... 254

10.3 Number of feeders ... 256

10.4 Yarn counts ... 258

1 1 F l u ff B l o w e r D e v i c e s .. . 2 6 2

1 2 I n d e x . .. 2 6 5

Contents XI


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0 1K n i tt in g Te c h n i qu e


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Individualneedle mo tion

12 KnittingMachines

Collective

needle mo tion

Straight bar

machines

Loop wheel

machines

Warp knitting

machines

V-bed mach ines Circular

knitting machines

radial recti-

linear

recti-

linear radial

recti-

linear


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Positions Positions


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Dia l ca m

Cy linder c a m


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Dia l ca m

Cy linder ca m


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Latch needles for single Jersey and r ibbed fabr ic circular kni t t ing machines 110


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Double hook latch needles (Groz-Becker t ) for Links/L inks circular kni t t ing m achines 112


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0 2Ne e d le Co n tro l

a n d it s Eq u i pm e n t


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208

sinkers

clearing

clearing

sinker


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N2,


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0 3A d d i t i o n a l

P a t te r n i n g Equ i pm e n t


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0 4 Circu larK n i tt in g Ma c h i n e s

fo r Ga r m e n t Le n g t h F a b r i c s


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0 5M a c h i n e s

fo r H ig h -P i le F a b r i c s


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0 6Ot h e r Ma c h i n e s


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0 7K n i t t e d

a n d Fa b r ic Str u c t u r e s


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0 8Ya r n s fo r Ci r c u l a r K n i tt in g


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http://print/


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http://print/


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0 9Qu a l i ty a n d

P r o d u c t io n Mo n ito r in g


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10App en d age fo r Ta b le s


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11F lu ff B l o w e r De v ic e s


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12 I n d e x


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How to use this E-book

«Circular Knitting» Dear reader,

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