Chef Basics Cooking Stocks

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Cooking StocksCooking stocks are an integral part of any well-stocked (no pun intended) kitchen. To beconsidered a chef, versus a mere cook, you need to know how to make and use goodstocks. kid you not.

Stocks may seem intimidating because you think you need to make the stock fresh beforeyou start the recipe ! not so"#n a $uarterly or semi annual basis, take time to make,reduce, and free%e your stocks.This way you&ll always be ready to make some greatfood.

'ou don&t go to the mill when you need a cup of flour you have it in your pantry. Think ofstock in the same way. f free%er space is limited, simply simmer more of the li$uidwaterout of the strained stock. 'ou can easily make * gallon of stock into a + gallon and savethe space. ut warn you, your stock will be so rich and intense you will never want to goback to the diluted kind.

Cooking stocks are simply flavored li$uids. good one is the key to a great soup,braised dish or sauce. There are many types. They are all made from a combination ofbones, vegetables, li$uids and seasonings. ach type uses different procedures.

chicken stock (white stock) is made with chicken bones, beef stock (brown stock) ismade of beef bones. f you are new to making cooking stocks, fear not. /ust follow thesteps, and you&ll do fine.e sure to taste your stocksand refine your techni$ue the ne0ttime around. f your brown stock isn&t rich and brown, roast the bones longer ne0t time.Chefs practice their craft, so keep practicing.

#ne more note1 never salt your cooking stocks. They&re used as a flavor ingredient, andyou may be re$uired to reduce them (which in turn would make them saltier). d2ust your

seasoning at the end of the process that way you are fearlessly in control.

Stock Types

white stockis colorless during the cooking process. t is made by simmering chicken,veal or beef bones in water with vegetables and seasonings.

brown stockhas a dark color. t is made from veal, beef, chicken or game bones inwater with vegetables which are carameli%ed before simmered in water with seasonings.

oth afish stockand afumetare made by slowly cooking fish bones or crustacean shellsand vegetables without coloring them. They are then simmered in water with seasonings.3or a fumet, wine and lemon 2uice are also added.

court boullionis made by simmering vegetables and seasonings in water and an acidicli$uid such as vinegar or wine. t is used to poach vegetables or fish.

ones

ones are the most important ingredient in a cooking stock. They add flavor, color andrichness to the stock. ach type of bone re$uires its own cooking time. 3or instance,


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chicken bones re$uire five to si0 hours of cooking time, while beef or veal bones re$uire si0to eight hours of cooking time.

eef and 4eal ones

The best bones from beef and veal are from younger animals. They contain a higherpercentage of cartilage and other connective tissue than those of mature animals. The

best beef and veal bones are back, neck and shank bones. They have high collagencontent. Collagen turns into gelatin and water. 5elatin adds richness to finished stock. eefand veal bones should be cut into small pieces (6 to 7 inches) for the most flavor.

Chicken ones

The best bones are the neck and back. whole carcass can be used and cut up foreasier handling.

3ish ones

8ean fish such as sole, flounder, whiting or turbot are the best bones to use for fishcooking stock. The entire fish carcass can be used but it should be cut with a heavy knifefor an even e0traction of flavors. 9inse the pieces in cold water after cutting to removeblood and other impurities.

#ther ones

8amb, turkey, game and ham bones can be used for white or brown stocks. ecareful not to mi0 strong flavored bones such as lamb or game with beef, veal, or chicken.'ou may turn out with an undesirable taste.

:rinciples of Stock ;akingThe principles of stock making are really $uite straight-forward and simple. Still, forwhatever reason, many would-be gourmet cooks seem to draw the line here. They feel thatstocks are used only by the great chefs, and that their ell, let me say this about that . . . balderdash""

There is nothing to making your own stock, and promise you that doing so willalmost instantly make you a better cook.

?ere&s all there is to it . . .

There are only @ basic steps stock making1

Start the stock in cold water.

Simmer the stock gently.

Skim the stock fre$uently.


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Strain the stock carefully.

Cool the stock $uickly.

Store the stock properly.

Aegrease the stock.

That&s it"

Bow &ll run through these @ basic principles of stock making again, this time with abit more detail . . .

Start the Stock n Cold >ater

The stock making ingredients should always be covered with cold water.>henbones are covered with cold water, blood and other impurities dissolve. >hen the waterheats, the impurities coagulate and rise to the surface. They can then be removed byskimming. f you used hot water first, the impurities would coagulate too $uickly and remain

throughout the water.

Simmer the Stock 5ently

The stock should be brought to a boil and then reduced to a simmer. 9apid boiling ofa stock causes impurities and fats to blend with the li$uid.

Skim the Stock 3re$uently

stock should be skimmed often so the stock doesn&t become cloudy with impurities.

Strain the Stock Carefully

The li$uid must be separated from the bones, vegetables and other solidingredients, once a stock is finished cooking. n order to keep the li$uid clear, it isimportant not to disturb the solid ingredients when removing the li$uid.

Skim as much fat as you can from the surface before removing the stockpot from theheat.

fter removing the pot, ladle the stock from the pot without stirring it.

Strain the stock through a china cap with several layers of cheesecloth.

Cool The Stock uickly'ou mustcool a stock carefully to prevent food-borne illnesses or souring.

Deep the stock in a metal container. plastic container slows cooling because itinsulates.

4ent the stock in an empty sink by placing it on a rack. 3ill the sink with water. Thisallows water to circulate on all sides and below the pot.


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Stir the stock fre$uently while in the sink for $uick, even cooling.

Store The Stock :roperly

#nce the stock is cooled, transfer it to a covered container either metal or plastic.Then put it in the refrigerator.s the stock refrigerates, a layer of fat will form over the

top which help preserve the stock.

Aegrease The Stock

To degrease is toremove fat from the surfaceof a li$uid such as a stock or sauce byskimming, scraping or lifting congealed fat.

>hite Stock

white stock may be made from beef, veal or chicken bones.4eal bones are most often

used, but any combination of bones may be used.

'ou might want to use all chicken bones for a chicken white stock. :rocurement of thebones is going to be the trick. >hile it may seem slightly disgusting, recommendfree%ing the discarded bones from your family&s dinner plates. lso, get to know abutcher and find out if they cut chickens on-site and if they ever discard hen the stock is thickened with a rou0 it is called a veloute (mothersauce). >ith the addition of cream, a veloute becomes a cream sauce, and the cream

sauce, in turn, takes on different names depending on the garnish.

highly recommend that you study white stock making, and subse$uently the greatsauces that derive from it. They are the essence of 3rench cuisine.

9emember, as one of my favorite chefs, /ac$ues :epin, says1 ash the cut-up bones, place them in a stockpot and cover them with cold water.

ring the water to a boil.

>hen the water starts boiling, skim the rising impurities. Arain the water from the bonesand discard it.

9efill the pot with cold water, and proceed with the stock recipe.


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difference between a brown and a white stock is that with the brown version the bones andmirepoi0 are carmeli%ed before being simmered, and a tomato product is added. Thesee0tra steps provide a rich, dark color and a more intense flavor. 'um"

Carameli%ing

Ao not wash or blanch the bones.

:rocedure for Carameli%ing ones

:lace the cut-up bones in a roasting pan. Ao not overfill pan.

9oast the bones for * hour in a hot oven. Stir occasionally, making sure the bonesbrown thoroughly.

Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot.

fter the bones are carameli%ed, the e0cess fat should be removed and reserved forfuture use. To utili%e the carameli%ed proteins remaining in the pan, you need to degla%e

the pan. To


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K Sachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag)1

K ay 8eaves, *

K Aried Thyme, *7 tsp.

K :eppercorns, crushed, *7 tsp.

K 5arlic cloves, crushed, F

K :arsley stems, G

'ield1 * gallon

:lace the bones in a roasting pan, and brown in a 6@H degree 3 oven. Turn thebones occasionally.

9emove the bones and place them in a stockpot. :our off the fat from the roastingpan and reserve it.

Aegla%e the roasting panwith part of the cold water.

dd the degla%ing li$uor and the rest of the cold waterto the bones, covering themcompletely. ring to a boil and then simmer.

dd a portion of the reserved fat to the roasting pan and saute the mirepoi0 untilevenly browned. Then add it to the simmering stock.

dd the tomato paste and sachetto the stock and simmer for G to L hours, skimmingas necessary.

Strain, cool and refrigerate.

f you grocery store doesn&t carry beef bones, ask the butcher to order some for you to pickup.

3ish Stock 9ecipe fish stock recipe and a fish fumet recipe are similar. Their results can be usedinterchangeably in most recipes. oth produce a clear stock with a pronounced fish flavor.

fumet, however, is more strongly flavored and aromatic, and it contains an acidicingredient such as white wine or lemon 2uice.

3ish stock recipes usually re$uire 6I to 7H minutes of cooking time.

Tips1

Bever blanch fish bones and crustacean shells, because it removes too much flavor. Theymay be sweated without browning. To sweat is to cook a food in a pan without browningover low heat until the item softens and releases moisture. Sweating allows the food to


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release its flavor more $uickly when cooked with other foods.

>hen working with fish stock recipes, such as my favorites below, make sure the mirepoi0are cut small so that all their flavors can be e0tracted during the short cooking time.

9ecipe for 3ish Stock

E3ish bones or crustacean shells, H lbs.

E>ater, F *F $ts.

E;irepoi0, small dice, *F lb. (a mi0ture of HIJ onions, FHJ carrots and FHJ celery)

E;ushroom trimmings, 7 o%.

ESachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag)1

K ay 8eaves, *

K Aried Thyme, *7 tsp.

K :eppercorns, crushed, *L tsp.

K :arsley stems, 7

'ield1 *)F gallon

Combine all ingredients in a stockpot.

ring to a simmer and skim as necessary.

Simmer for 6I to 7I minutes.


9ecipe for 3ish 3umet

E>hole butter, * o%.

E#nion, small dice, *F lb.

E:arsley stems, G

E3ish bones, H lbs.

EAry white wine, * *F cup

E8emon 2uice, * o%.

ECold water or fish stock, 6 *F $ts.

E;ushroom trimmings, * o%.

E3resh thyme, * sprig


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E8emon slices,H

;elt the butter in a stockpot.

dd the onion, parsley stems and fish bones. Cover the pot and sweat the bones overlow heat.

Sprinkle the bones with the white wine and lemon 2uice.

dd the cold water or fish stock, mushroom trimmings, thyme and lemon slices. ring toa boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 6I minutes, skimming fre$uently.

Stain, cool and refrigerate.

4egetable Stock 9ecipe

good vegetable stock recipe should produce a beautiful, clear and light-coloredstock. t has no gelatin content because no animal products are used. t can almost alwaysbe substituted for a meat-based stock, which is helpful when preparing a more healthful orvegetarian dish.

This stock is always on hand in my kitchen. have also made many, many versions ofit, each to suit certain dishes.

?int1Sometimes a stock with 2ust one or two vegetables that will compliment a specificdish very well is better than a stock with many vegetables.

?ere&s one of my favorite basic vegetable stock recipes1

4egetable Stock 9ecipe

E4egetable oil * fl. o%.

E;irepoi0, small dice * lb.

E8eek, whites 7 o%. and greens, chopped

E5arlic cloves, F chopped

E3ennel, small F o%. dice

ETurnip, diced * o%.

ETomato, diced * o%.

E>hite wine 7 fl. o%.

E>ater F $ts.

ESachet (ingredients tied in a cheesecloth bag)1


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K ay 8eaf *

K Aried Thyme *7 tsp.

K :eppercorns, *L tsp. crushed

K :arsley stems 7

'ield1 *)F gal.

?eat the oil. dd the vegetables and sweat for *I minutes.

dd the white wine, water and sachet.

ring the mi0ture to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 7H minutes.


Court ouillon 9ecipe court bouillon recipe is not actually a stock but it is prepared in much the same manneras stocks. t is 3rench for


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nage is an aromatic court bouillon that is sometimes served as a light sauce orbroth with fish or shellfish. fter the fish or shellfish is cooked, additional herbs orvegetables are added to the cooking li$uid. The used portion can be strained, chilled, andclarified with egg whites and vegetables in the same manner as a consomme. >hole butteror cream may be added to a nage for richness.

5la%e gla%e is a dramatic reduction and concentration of a stock. 5la%es are added to intensifyflavors in sauces and soups.

:rocedure 3or 9educing Stock To 5la%e

Simmer the stock over very low heat. Skim often and watch so it doesn&t burn.

s it reduces, transfer the li$uid into smaller saucepans. Strain the li$uid each time it istransferred into a smaller saucepan.

Strain it a final time, cool and refrigerate.

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Chef Basics Cooking Stocks