Chapter 4Gastronomic Identity II -

Food and Cuisine: The Effect of the Environment and

Culture on Gastronomy, Wine and Food Marriages, and

Tourism

Chapter 4 Outline

• Aperitif: Chef John Folse & Company

• The Environment• Food: The Impact

of Geography and Climate

• Culture• History and Ethnic

Diversity

• Trial & Error, Innovations, and Capabilities

• Gastronomic Identity• The Business

Perspective• Old World and New

World Wine and Food Marriages

• Wine, Food and Tourism

Chapter 4 Key Concepts

• Implementation of a gastronomic identity business model

• Culinary identity movement• “Homogenization” of agricultural

products• Food appellations• Physiological factors• Layers of taste components,

texture and flavors

Chef John Folse• Folse is an entrepreneur and

restaurateur who has ensured a continuation and recognition of Louisiana’s gastronomic identity.

• How has he utilized this concept across his business units?

• What is an “identity” movement?

Identity Movement• Identity movements can have

evolutionary, revolutionary and lasting impacts on professions, professional identity and ultimately expectations of the consumer.

• A classic example of an identity movement would be that of the French nouvelle cuisine movement in the 1970s.

• An identity movement demonstrates how cuisine, dining habits, recipes and etiquette are entrenched in tradition.

The French Nouvelle Cuisine Movement

• A social reaction that followed similar movements of the time in the theater, film and art communities.

• Institutional logics and role identities in the culinary movement were found to have been refined from classical French traditions to nouvelle exploration.

• During this process, 5 dimensions were said to have changed: culinary rhetoric, the rules of cooking archetypal ingredients, the role of the chef, and the organization of the menu.

Food: The Impact of Geography and Climate

• The items available in our environment affect flavor preferences, eating habits, recipes and dining etiquette.

• Historically, food has been consumed near the place of production creation.

• The enjoyment of eating “good” food is dependent on cultural preferences for specific flavor profiles.

• Generally, items produced in the local market are perceived as good quality.

• An identifiable food product based on origin or terroir needs the proper seed stock, climate, soil type and processing is needed.

• Geography and climate also impact eating habits based on physiological characteristics.

The Impact of Trade On Gastronomic Identity

• Trade and immigration policies have had a substantial impact on cuisine, food products, flavors profiles and dining etiquette over the course of several centuries.

• The bartering of and commercial trading of food products between countries has developed over time.

• Travelers’ (of the past and modern day) contact with other people and regional gastronomy impacts gastronomic traditions.

Other Factors of Gastronomic Identity

• Regional flavor profiles, etiquette and regional recipes are predominantly derived through a continuous interaction and evolution of fashion, traditions, culture and climate.

• All cuisines and gastronomic traditions are created through a fusion of ingredients and techniques as a result of the marrying of a diverse cultures, ethnic influences and history.

• These gastronomic traditions are tempered or restricted through limitations in product availability and know-how.

Trial & Error, Innovations, and Capabilities

• The gastronomic identity is determined by capabilities of those in the region.

• Locale based capabilities allow the creation of new innovations.

• Capabilities that drive agro-products and distribution are quite varied.

• Agri-technology industries impact the availability and type of machinery available, chemicals used, and biological factors.

• Agri-food production requires interest and ability to farm, availability of property interests, property servicing agencies and farm-based businesses.

• The final products have to be valued and accessible by the consuming public with the means and desire.

Old World Classical Matches

• Bordeaux, France:Bordeaux, France: Sauternes and Foie Gras. Primary matches - richness to richness, wine acidity and fattiness of the Foie Gras.

• Beaujolais, France:Beaujolais, France: Beaujolais with poached pork sausages with warm potatoes bathed in olive oil and shallots and Beaujolais wine. Relatively low in tannin - this humble wine works great with humble and down-to earth foods.

• Loire, France:Loire, France: Pouilly-Fumé and Crottin de Chavignol (goat cheese). Perfect tangy counterpoints - goat cheese and high acid wines made with Sauvignon Blanc.

Old World Classical Matches (2)

• Piedmont, Italy:Piedmont, Italy: White truffle (dishes) with Barbaresco and Barolo. Earthy and intense dishes made with white truffle paired with intense Nebbiolo wines.

• Tuscany, Italy:Tuscany, Italy: Bistecca alla fiorentina and Chianti. A large slab of grilled beef served with wine made from Sangiovese grapes. Fatty, full bodied food with tannic reds.

• Rijoia, Spain:Rijoia, Spain: Wild mushrooms sizzling in garlicky olive oil served with red Rioja. The earthy character of the dish with the Old World earthiness in Spanish Rioja.

Old World Classical Matches (3)

• Jerez, Spain:Jerez, Spain: Garlic shrimp with Manzanilla shrimp sautéed in olive oil, dried red pepper, and lots of garlic paired with the salty, briny olive-scented characteristics of Manzanilla.

• Portugal:Portugal: Port and roasted nuts or Blue cheeses (stilton, gorgonzola, etc.) are a classic contrasting match. The saltiness of the blue cheese (or nuts) contrasts with the sweetness of Port.

• Germany:Germany: High acid Rieslings and every meat dish imaginable. Made with no oak and varying levels of sweetness make them the most versatile white wine with food. The acidity and complexity of German Riesling makes it very food friendly.

New World Classical Matches

• California, U.S.:California, U.S.: Dungeness crab dipped in butter with Chardonnay. The butter dipped crab matches with the buttery Chardonnay (malo-lactic fermentation). The sweetness of the crab contrasts with the light acidity of Chardonnay.

• Canada:Canada: Ice wines and desserts. The intensely sweet and yet refreshingly acidic ice wines match with less sweet desserts such as poached fruit, fruit tarts, crème brulee, sugar cookies.

• Australia:Australia: Grilled pepper steak and Shiraz. The peppery characteristics of Australian Shiraz match with the body and spice of grilled pepper steak.

New World Classical Matches (2)

• New Zealand:New Zealand: New Zealand fusion cuisine with Sauvignon Blanc (European traditions, indigenous products and tropical techniques). These pair nicely with the high acidity, slight sweetness and pungent character of Sauvignon Blanc.

• South Africa:South Africa: Outdoor barbequed meat with Pinotage. Shiraz with grilled antelope, deer, lamb, sausages, and beef. The body of South Africa reds and the meat fattiness mellows the tannic nature of the wines.

• Argentina:Argentina: Malbec and Beef. Malbec is Argentina’s most interesting wine. Its exotic nature allows it to be paired with beef prepared as empanadas, roasted or barbecued.

Chapter 4

Lagniappe“Something extra”

Regional Cuisine and Tourism: The Cajun/Creole Example and

Gastronomic Traveler Motivations

Food, Wine and Culinary Tourism

• Interest in unique experiences• Food and drink #1 activity of many tourists• Motivation: personal indulgence,

exploration, romance and relaxation• Types of food and drink tourists:

– “Gastronomes” = seek new food experiences and knowledgeable

– “Indigenous foodies” = research local culture/cuisine, adopt new ingredients

– “Tourist foodies” = frequent mainstream restaurants with local cuisine

– “Familiar foods” = no change to pre-visit behaviour

A classic example in the US:

Cajun and Creole CuisineCajun and Creole Cuisine

Louisiana’s link among culture, cuisine Louisiana’s link among culture, cuisine and tourism: Tying together and tourism: Tying together

“Culinary Identity” with “Culinary Identity” with “Gastronomic Identity” factors“Gastronomic Identity” factors

Cajun/Creole…An American Classic

• The regional cuisine Cajun/Creole developed like any other regional cuisine…people from different backgrounds share with each other their cooking traditions utilizing the local indigenous foods.

• Cajun/Creole could only have evolved in South Louisiana!……Why?

Cajun…CreoleWhat’s the difference?

• Creole = city food, more refined and inventive. A cuisine of Louisiana Aristocracy.

• Cajun = working man food, one pot dinners able to feed large numbers, lots of game, fish and shellfish. A cuisine of adaptability, ingenuity and survival.

Traditional Dishes and Staple Ingredients

• Cajun “Trinity” • Cajun Roux• Grillades and Grits• Gumbo• Corn Maque Choux• Jambalaya• Etouffee

Elements that define Culinary Identity

History

Ethnic Diversit

y

Culinary Etiquett

e

Geography

Prevailing Flavors

Recipes

Presentation

Techniques

Dominant Ingredients

Geography

• A critical role in determining the definitive pantry of a specific cuisine: indigenous products, and staple agricultural items that are readily available.

• Louisiana products: shrimp, oysters, crawfish, pecans, rice, game, alligator, “shallots”, thistle, cayenne peppers, etc.

History• Historical events have a profound

effect on the introduction of additional ingredients, cooking techniques, and food culture (a fusion of cultures).

• The settling of the Acadians or “Cajuns” from Nova Scotia to the swamps of Louisiana

• The inter-marrying of the Creoles in New Orleans and along the river road to create a “city” cuisine.

Ethnic diversity• A cuisine’s ethnic diversity is often

influenced by historical events of immigrants or ethnic groups settling in a particular area. (i.e. labors to propel burgeoning industries, etc.)

• Cajun and Creole is a fusion of 7 nations: French, German, Spanish, Italian, Native American, African and English.

Culinary Etiquette

• How one eats can often be another defining factor of a cuisine.

• Louisiana seafood boils, one-pot dishes (gumbo, jambalaya, sauce piquante, grillades), po-boys, gumbo file, hot sauce, etc.

Prevailing flavors• The five basic tastes of sweet, sour, bitter,

salty and spicy are combined with aromas to create distinctive flavors.

• Typically, Louisiana foods are highly seasoned, utilize a dark brown roux, a lack of availability of black pepper created a utilization of red pepper, and the Cajun “trinity” of vegetables as a base ingredient.

Recipes

• Dominant ingredients– Indigenous products, current

agricultural products, and dominant ingredients to satisfy preferred flavor profiles.

• Techniques– What techniques are employed? Frying,

broiling, braising, stir-frying, etc.• Presentation

– How is the dish traditionally presented?

Summary of Cajun/Creole Culinary Identity

• Geography = swamps, bayous, Mississippi River, subtropical climate

• History = architecture, food culture, inventiveness, values, religion

• Ethnic diversity = fusion of 7 nations• Culinary etiquette = causal, hospitality,

accompaniments• Prevailing flavors = well seasoned, spice,

and sweets• Recipes = classical dishes and inventive

interpretations

What is “Gastronomic Identity”?

• Expands the culinary identity idea to include food and drink.

• Adds other cultural considerations such as innovativeness, learned capabilities, and willingness of trial & error.

• Louisiana does not have a long history of food and wine matches produced in the area. But, classic food and drink matches include:– A crawfish boil and locally made beer– New Orleans biegnets and chicory coffee.

Why is it important to Louisiana?

• Operators in the state have used the underlying concept as a strategy to differentiate the region to create competitive advantage.

• Gastronomic identity has had great consequences for successful culinary tourism in the region.

• Value-added features such as history, storytelling and authenticity have been beneficial in preserving the culture for local residents and visitors alike.

Gastronomic Identity: Can you identify these factors for your region?

EnvironmentGeography

ClimateMacro/Meso/Micro-

ClimatesIndigenous Products

Profitable Adaptability of New Products

CultureHistory

Ethnic DiversityTrial & ErrorInnovationsCapabilitiesTraditions

BeliefsValues

Gastronomic IdentityFlavor Profiles

EtiquetteRecipes

Fusion of Ingredients/TechniquesClassic Wine and Food Marriages

Climate ZonesOld World & New World Styles

A Framework of Gastronomic Travelers’ Motivations

Three main components:• Social influences• Sensory influences• Psychological factors

Food and Identity

Food provides a social marker and symbol (Identity) of:

• The regional culture – nationality, culture, religion.

• Environment and economy.• Social standing, prestige, position.• Multicultural society – globalization

and cosmopolitan.

Motivations as a Reflection of Social Influences

Social InfluencesSocial Influences

ValuesFamily &

Associations

LifestyleCulture

Beliefs &

Religion

Motivations as a Reflection of Motivations as a Reflection of Sensory PerceptionsSensory Perceptions

Sensory Sensory PerceptionsPerceptions

HearingTouch

SmellTaste

Sight

Mouth feel

Psychological Factors:Psychological Factors: Motivations Motivations as a Stimulusas a Stimulus to other Influences

PsychologicalPsychological

FactorsFactors

KnowledgeRecognition

NostalgiaImagination

Memory

Decisions/Experiences/Outcomes

Consolation-Affliction

Satisfaction-Dissatisfaction

Fulfillment-Unfulfilled

Relaxation-Stress

Social InfluencesSocial Influences

PsychologicalPsychological

FactorsFactors

Sensory PerceptionsSensory Perceptions

How do these factors interact to impact decisions, How do these factors interact to impact decisions, experiences and outcomes for gastronomic experiences and outcomes for gastronomic travelers? How to they impact you?travelers? How to they impact you?

Additional Reading on Identity and Food Tourism

Hall, M.C., Sharples, L., Mitchell, R., Macionis, N. & Cambourne, B. (2003). Food Tourism Around the World. London: Butterworth-Heinemann.

Sloan, D. (2004). Culinary Taste. London: Elsevier.