Facial Makeup

Chapter 24 – 12’

Main Objective

Emphasize most attractive features/accents Minimize less attractive features/flaws For most people makeup should be subtle Application will vary from person to person

Structure of the face Color of eyes, skin and hair How the client wants to look Results that can be achieved realistically

Cosmetics for Facial Makeup

Foundation Used as a base or protective film applied before

makeup and/or powder Evens out skin tone Conceals minor imperfections Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris Oil based - normal to dry skin types

Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers Water based – oily skin types

Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder – matte finish

Color primer – applied before foundation top cancel out & disguise skin discoloration

Green – redness Lavender – sallow or yellowish Amber – dark purplish

Foundation Chemistry

Cream – Dry to normal skin Medium to full coverage Oil-based

Liquid – Oily to normal skin Sheer to medium coverage Matte finish Water-based

Powder – Oily skin Dry to powdery finish

Using Foundation Success of the entire makeup application

depends on the correct color selection and application of the foundation

Skin tone determines foundation color Test at jawline Too light – dull chalky Too dark – muddy or splotchy Line of demarcation – obvious line where

foundation starts or stops

Classified as warm, cool, neutral Warm

Yellow, orange, red-orange Cool

Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink), Neutral

Equal amounts of warm and cool tones FYI – page 759

Foundation should always match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone

Apply at jawline to get the best match possible Color should “disappear” Remove from container with a sanitized

spatula Applied to the face with a sponge

Mineral Foundation Applied with a large fluffy brush Kabuki Brush

Concealers

Used to cover blemishes and discolorations, dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be applied before or after foundation

Contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage

Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks

Wide range of colors Contain

Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness, anti-aging and moisturizing benefits

Here’s a Tip Page 760 -

Pots are the heaviest and provide most coverage

Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and may contain some moisture

Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid consistency

Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be used as a foundation

Concealer Chemistry and Use

Chemical composition is similar to cream foundation

Removed from container with a spatula and applied with a sponge or brush

Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with sponge

It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as close as possible! If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw

attention to problems

Face Powders

A fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted and scented

Used to add a matte finish Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing

skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discolorations and toning down excessive color and shine

Used to set the foundation

Absorb excess oil Minimizes shine of oily skin

Face Powder Chemistry

Loose and pressed Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and

sometimes perfume Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of

bacteria and preserve the product (powder)

Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added Translucent – do not contain much color

Using face Powder Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin

types Heavier weight – normal to oily Powder should match well with the natural skin

tone and work well with the foundation Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess

with brush Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick

touch-ups Loose is best for use at home

Cheek Color

Blush, blusher, rouge Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder

used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek bone (zygomatic)

Gives natural glow to the face and helps to create more attractive facial contours

Cheek Color Chemistry

Oil based formulas – combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base

Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-resistant product

Cream – contain water, thickeners and surfactants that enable particles to penetrate hair follicles and cracks

Using Cheek Color

Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied with facial sponge

Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied with facial sponge

Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely used – applied with a cotton puff or brush

Loose powder - variety of shades – applied with brush or cotton puff

General Rules for Application

Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear (remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to

corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book bottom of pp. 760)

Do not extend color above the outer corner of eye

Do not apply in bright round circle – blend color so it softly fades into foundation

Lip Color

Lipstick or lip gloss Cosmetic paste usually in a tube Variety of colors Color the lips Enhance or correct the shape of the lips Some contain sunscreen Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming

dry and cracked

Lip Color Chemistry

Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes Castor oil is the primary ingredient Color agents Waxes

Using Lip Color

Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to select appropriate colors

Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shade

Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT BELONGS TO THE CLIENT!

Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush

Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and work towards the middle – repeat on opposite side

Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes following natural lip line

Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in and connecting in the middle

Aim for symmetry and balance

Lip Liner

Colored pencil used to outline lips Helps to keep lip color from feathering or

bleeding Usually applied before lip color to ensure

proper shape and definition of the lips Chose color on fashion trends or one that

compliments and coordinates with lip color

Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue before and after each use

Sanitize sharpener after each use Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and

work toward the middle Repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks with rounded

strokes, following the natural lip line Outline the lower lip from the corners in Apply liner to lips for color staying power

Eye Shadow

Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or contour

Variety of colors Used wet or dry Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or

dewy

Eye Shadow Chemistry

Stick and cream - water based with oil Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral

spirits) Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so

as not to fall apart

Using Eye Shadow

Makes eye appear brighter and more expressive

Matching shadow color and eye color creates a flat field of color and should be avoided

Use colors other than eye color - contrasting or complimentary

Light and dark colors can bring attention to the eyes

Darker shades make iris appear lighter Lighter shades make iris appear deeper Makeup selection should enhance client’s eyes

the client’s eyes Color choices should be subtle for daytime Colors may match and coordinate with client’s

clothing Referred to as highlight, base, and contour

colors

Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have any finish Lighter color will appear larger

Base color is generally a medium tone close to skin tone Used to even skin tone Applied all over the lid and brow bone, form lash to

brow Other colors applied after, providing a smooth

blending Matte finish is usually preferred

Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and darker than skin tone Applied to minimize a specific area To create contour in a crease Define the eyelash line

Remove with spatula and apply with fresh applicator or clean brush

Remove and apply with unused disposable brush

Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly upward and outward

Blend

Focus On - 761 762 763

Here’s a Tip – 764 765

Eyeliners

Used to outline and emphasize the eyes Variety of colors Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen Create a line close to lashes to make eyes

appear larger and lashes fuller

Eyeliner Chemistry

Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) Soft and hard form Used on both upper and lower lids

Liquid and cake Caution Box PP 764

Using Eyeliner

Most prefer color same color as lashes or mascara for a more natural look

More dramatic colors may be chosen depending on trends and own style

Apply with extreme caution Have a steady hand and make sure the client

remains still Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue

before and after each use

Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure,

close to the lash line Powder application – scrape a small amount

onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator

Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look

Eyebrow Color

Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows

Darken the eyebrows Correct their shape Fill in sparse areas

Eyebrow Color Chemistry

Similar to eyeliner pencil Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye

shadow

Using Eyebrow Color

Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with tissue before and after each use

Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Powder shadow application – scrape a small

amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator

Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color

Mascara

Used to darken, define and thicken the eyelashes

Liquid, cake, and cream form Variety of shades and tints Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight

with fine or thick bristles Enhances natural lashes, making them appear

longer and fuller Lashes should be darker than eyebrows

Mascara Chemistry

Polymer products Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and

preservatives Pigments Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair

fibers Pigments – must inert

Unable to combine with other elements

Using Mascara

Used on both upper and lower lashes Apply from inner to outer corners Dispose of wand NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!! Apply carefully Most common in jury is poking the eye with

the applicator Curl lashes before applying mascara

Other Cosmetics

Eye makeup removers – used to remove makeup Oil based - are generally mineral oil with

fragrance added Water based – are a water solution to which other

solvents have been added Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective

Grease paint – heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes

Cake or pancake makeup – Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a

moistened sponge Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and

pigmentation defects

Makeup Brushes and Tools

Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder and blend edges of color

Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush used for applying blush

Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat edge

Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge

Eye shadow brushes – variety of sizes – small to large, soft – firm The softer and larger the brush the more diffused

and blended the shadow will be A firm brush is better for depositing dense color

than for blending Eyeliner brush – firm, tapered, firm bristles

Angle brush – firm, thin bristles Lash and brow brush – comb-like brush used

to remove excess mascara on lashes or to comb brow into place

Tweezers – metal or plastic - used to remove excess facial hair

Eyelash curler – metal or plastic used to give lift and upward curl to upper lashes

Caring for Makeup Brushes

Commercial sanitizer can be used for quick cleaning

Spraying cleaner over a long period of time can dry out brushes

A gentle shampoo or brush solvent should be used Will not hurt bristles and may help them last

longer

Caution: - the brush should always be put into running or still water with the ferrule pointed down

If brushes are pointing up- water may remove the glue holding the bristles in place

Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing Brushes will dry in the shape they are left in Reshape wet bristles and lay flat to dry State Regulatory Alert - 766

Disposable Implements

Sponges variety of shapes and sizes Apply and blend foundation

Powder or cotton puffs – velour or cotton – used to apply and blend powder

Mascara wand – plastic – one use only! Spatulas

wooden or plastic Wide, flat base

Disposable lip brushes – one time use only! Sponge-tipped shadow applicators – apply

shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner Cotton swabs – apply shadow, blend eyeliner,

remove unwanted makeup from eyes or lips Cotton pads or puffs – apply astringents or

makeup removers, apply powder products Pencil sharpener – used before and after each

application of pencil cosmetics

Makeup Color Theory

Everyone sees colors differently It may take awhile for you to see color

naturally and easily

Primary colors – cannot be obtained from a mixture Blue Red yellow

Secondary colors – mix equal parts of two (2) primary colors Orange Green violet

Tertiary colors – mix an equal a mount of a primary and the adjacent secondary colors Red-orange Orange-yellow Yellow-green Green-blue Blue-violet Violet-red

Complementary colors – primary and secondary colors opposite each other on the color wheel Red – green (Christmas) Yellow – violet (Easter) Blue – orange (almost Halloween) These colors cancel each other out to make a

neutral brown or gray When next to each other they look brighter

Warm and Cool Colors

Warm – Red Yellow orange

Cool – Blue Green violet

Selecting Makeup Color

Three main factors Skin color Eye color Hair color

Determining Skin Color

1st

Light Medium dark

2nd

Warm Cool Neutral - equal amounts of warm/cool

Warm colors Yellow and gold Oranges Red-orange Most reds Some yellow-greens

Cool colors Blues Greens Violets Blue-reds

Reds Orange based – warm Blue based - cool

Greens More gold – warm More blue - cool

Light skin color Light tones – soft natural look Medium to dark tones – more dramatic look

Medium skin color Medium tones – understated look Dark or light tones – striking and vivid

Dark skin color Dark tones – most subtle Medium to medium-light tones- striking and vivid

Be cautious choosing tones lighter than the skin

If too light skin will appear gray or chalky Look for translucent or shimmery colors

Complementary Colors for Eyes

Neutrals will always be safest choice Have both warm/cool Work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair color

By contrasting eye color with complementary colors – emphasize the color most effectively

Complementary Colors

Blue eyes – orange Contains yellow and red Make eyes look bluer Gold, warm orange/brown

peach, and copper Red-browns

mauves and plum Neutrals

taupe or camel

Green eyes – red Red shadows tend to make the eye look tired or

bloodshot Pure red tones not recommended Brown-based reds

Red-orange, red-violet, Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples

Brown eyes – neutral Any color Contrasting colors

Greens, blues, grays, silvers

Adding Cheek and Lip Color

Coordinate with same color family as the eye makeup

Choose neutrals – coordinate with any makeup colors

Hair Color and Eye Color

Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup colors

Table 771 Table 24 – 2 Here’s A Tip page 771

Reviewing Color Selection Steps

1. Determine skin level: dark, medium, light2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool,

neutral3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown etc.4. Determine complementary colors5. Determine hair color: warm, cool

6. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors

7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, cool neutral

8. Apply Makeup

Client Consultation

Listen closely and try not to impose your own opinions

Your role is: To hear your client’s wishes Concerns To make recommendations based on your

knowledge

Consultation Area

Clean Tidy Clean brushes after each use Tidy makeup area daily Portfolio - your own pictures Magazine layouts

Lighting

Adequate and flattering Be sure client’s face is evenly lit without dark

shadows Natural light best choice Combination of incandescent (warm and most

flattering) and fluorescent (cool) Make sure light shine directly and evenly on

the face

Makeup Consultation

Visually assess client to understand their personal style

Engaging the client in conversation will help determine their needs

Gather information on

Skin conditions How much or how little is normally worn Daily versus special occasion makeup Amount of time spent applying makeup Colors likes or dislikes Any makeup the client is having trouble with

Special Occasion Makeup

Here’s a tip - Page 774 & 775 Time for you to work your magic Subdued lighting:

More definition for eyes, cheeks, and lips Add drama by applying false eyelashes and

shimmery colors on eyes, lips, cheeks or complexion Wedding:

Matte colors are recommended Shimmer may reflect too much light

Special Occasion Makeup for Eyes

Striking contour eyes Page 773

Dramatic Smoky Eyes Pages 773 - -774

Special Occasion Makeup for Cheeks

Use darker blush under cheekbones to add definition Add brighter, lighter color to apples of cheeks and

blend Use cheek color with shimmer or glitter over

cheekbones for highlight

Special Occasion Makeup for Lips

1. Apply lip liner to, fill in lip line with pencil, and blot

2. Add similar color in lipstick over entire lip area3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips

Activity: color faces

Corrective Makeup

All faces are interesting in their own special way, but few are perfect

These tiny imperfections can make the face more interesting if treated artfully

Facial makeup can create the illusion of better balance and proportion when desired

Caution box

Basic rule for makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature and shadowing minimizes it

A highlight is produced when a cosmetic, usually foundation is lighter than the original foundation is used on the a particular part of the face

A shadow is formed when the foundation is darker than the original color

The use of shadows minimizes prominent features so that they are less noticeable

Analyzing Features and Face Shape

Emphasize attractive features and minimize less attractive

Goal of effective makeup is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard

Oval-shaped Face

Face is divided into three (3) equal horizontal sections (pp. 775 figure 24-21)

1st – 1/3 hairline to top of the eyebrows 2nd – 1/3 top of eyebrows to the end of the nose 3rd – 1/3 end of nose to the bottom of the chin Oval face is approximately ¾ as wide as it is long Distance between the eyes is the width of one

eye

Round Face

Broader in proportion to its length Rounding chin and hairline Makeup applied to:

slenderize lengthen the face

Square-shaped Face

Comparatively straight lines Wide forehead Square jawline Corrective makeup applied to:

offset the squareness soften the hard lines

Triangular (Pear-shaped) Face

Jaw is wider than forehead Corrective makeup is applied to:

create width at the forehead Slenderize the jaw Add length to the face

Inverted Triangle (Heart-shaped) Face

Wide forehead and narrow pointed chin Corrective makeup applied to:

minimize width of forehead Increase width of jawline

Diamond-shaped Face

Narrow forehead Greatest width is at cheekbones (zygomatic

bones) Corrective makeup applied to:

reduce width across cheekbone

Oblong Face

Greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face

It is long and narrow Corrective makeup is applied to:

Create illusion of width across cheekbone (zygomatic bone)

Making the face appear shorter

Forehead Area

Low forehead Application of lighter foundation lends a broader

appearance between brows and hairline Protruding forehead

Apply a darker foundation over prominent area to give an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face

Suitable hairstyle will also draw attention away from the forehead

FYI – page 776

Nose and Chin Areas Large or protruding nose

Darker foundation on the nose Lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the

nose Creates fullness in the cheeks and makes nose appear

smaller Avoid cheek color on nose

Short or flat nose Lighter foundation down center of nose Makes nose appear longer and larger If nostrils are wide apply darker foundation to both

sides of nostrils

Broad nose Darker foundation on sides of nose and nostrils Avoid darker foundation on laugh lines - it will

accentuate them Carefully blend foundation to avoid visible lines

Protruding chin and receding nose Shadow chin with darker foundation Highlight nose with lighter foundation

Receding chin Highlight chin with lighter foundation

Sagging double chin Use darker foundation on the sagging portion Use natural skin tone foundation on the face

Jawline and Neck Area

Blend foundation onto the neck so the client’s color is consistent from face to neck

Set with translucent powder to avoid transfer onto client's clothing

Broad jawline Apply darker shade of foundation over heavy area

of jaw – starting at the temples This will minimize the lower part of the face and

create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face

Narrow jawline Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade

Round, square, or triangular face Apply a darker shade of foundation over the

prominent part of the jawline By creating a shadow over this area the prominent

part will appear softer and more oval

Small face and short, thick neck Darker foundation on the neck Will make the neck appear thinner

Long thin neck Lighter shade of foundation on the neck This will create fullness and counteract the long

thin appearance of the neck

Corrective Makeup for the Eyes

Round eyes Lengthen by extending eye shadow beyond the

outer corner of the eyes Close-set eyes (closer than length of one eye)

Lightly apply shadow up from outer edge of the eye

Protruding or bulging eyes Minimized by blending shadow carefully over the

prominent part of the upper lid Carrying it lightly toward the brows Use a medium to deep shadow color

Heavy-lidded eyes Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the

edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket

Small eyes Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and

below the eyes Wide-set eyes

Apply shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid toward the nose and blend carefully

Dark circles under eyes Apply concealer over dark area, blending and

smoothing into surrounding area Set with translucent powder

Deep-set eyes Use bright, light, reflective colors Use the lightest color in the crease Light to medium color sparingly on the lid and

brow bone

Eyebrows

Well-groomed eyebrows are a part of the complete and effective makeup application

The eyebrow is the frame for the eye Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on

the brow bone or between the eyebrows Over-tweezed eyebrows can make the face

look puffy or protruding, or may give the eyes a surprised look

To correct eyebrow shape

Remove all unnecessary hairs and demonstrate how to use an eyebrow pencil

Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three (3) lines Page 781 Figure 24-53 1st – vertical from corner of nose to inner corner of

the eye (eyebrow begins) 2nd – corner of the nose to the outer corner of the

eye ( eyebrow ends) 3rd – vertical from the outer center of the iris

(highest part of the arch)

Adjustments to Eyebrow Shape

Low forehead Low arch gives more height to a very low forehead

Wide-set eyes Extend the eyebrow line to the inner corners of

the eye Be careful not to give a frowning look

Close-set eyes Widen the distance between the eyebrows and

slightly extend them outward

Round face Arch the brows high to make face appear narrow Start directly above the inside corner of the eye and

extend to the end of the cheekbone Long face

Make the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face

Do not extend the brows farther than the outside corners of the eye

Square face Face will appear oval if the arch is high on the ends of

the eyebrow Begin directly above the corners of the eyes and

extend them outward

Eyelash Enhancers

Contain fiber to make lashes look longer & fuller

Built into mascara or separate product Prescription drug “Latisse®”

The Lips

Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils

Lip Figures

Skin Tones

Ruddy skin Red, wind-burned or affected by rosacea Apply a yellow or green foundation to affected

areas blending carefully Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow

base over entire complexion Set with a translucent or yellow-based powder Avoid red or pink blushes

Sallow skin Skin that has a yellowish hue Apply pink based foundation on the affected areas

and blend carefully into the jaw and neck Set with translucent powder Avoid yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and

lips

Wrinkles

Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be minimized with a foundation

Apply the foundation sparingly and evenly in a light, outward, circular motion

Care should be taken to remove any foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles

Artificial Eyelashes

Clients with sparse lashes and clients who want to enhance their eyes for special occasions are most likely going to request this service

The objective is to make the client’s own lashes look fuller, longer and more attractive without appearing unnatural (unless the occasion calls for dramatic or enhanced look)

Artificial Lashes

Band lashes - Strip lashes Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with

adhesive to the natural lash line Individual lashes

Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time

Eyelash adhesive Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere

or stick to the natural lash line

Applying Band Lashes

Procedures pp. 787 - 788 Caution box pp. 783 Human hair, mink hair or synthetic fibers Synthetic fibers are made with a curl will not

react to the weather Variety of colors

Removing Band Lashes

Commercial preparations Lash base may be softened by applying a face

cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser

Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out client’s own lashes

Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid

Individual Lashes

Synthetic Attached directly to client's own lashes Eye tabbing Follow mfg. directions

Safety precautions

Pp. 783

Professional Makeup Application

Page 784 - 786 Caution box – Page 786 Service Tip 784