Cellars International, Inc. Rudi Wiest Selections66.63.136.147/vintages/2004.pdf2004 German Vintage Report - Page 2 Rudi Wiest Selections - 800.596.9463 (WINE) z 2004 German Vintage

Rudi Wiest Selections Cel lar s In t e r na t i ona l , Inc .

Cellars International 8 0 0 . 5 9 6 . 9 4 6 3 ( W I N E ) i n f o @ g e r m a n w i n e . n e t w w w . g e r m a n w i n e . n e t

2004 German Vintage Report

Purveyo rs o f Fine German Wine

2004 German Vintage Report - Page 1

Rudi Wiest Selections - 800.596.9463 (WINE) www.germanwine.net 2004 German Vintage Report

I ndex 1

2004 Over v ie w 2

2004 Pheno log i ca l Da ta 5

Mönchho f / Mose l 6

W ege le r / Mose l 7

Joh . Jos . P rüm / Mose l 8

D r . F . W e ins -P rüm / Mose l 9

Sch loss L iese r / Mose l 10

F r i t z Haag / Mose l 11

Re inho l d Haar t / Mose l 12

M i l z -Lau ren t i usho f / Mose l 13

Kar thäuse rho f / Ruwer 14

von Hö ve l / Saa r 15

Z i l l i ken / Saa r 16

Ber t S im on / Saa r 17

Rober t W e i l / Rhe ingau 18

Franz Küns t l e r / Rhe ing au 19

W ege le r / Rhe ing au 20

von Buh l / P f a l z 21

P f e f f i ngen / P f a lz 22

Rebho lz / P f a lz 23

Hans W i rsch ing / F ranken 24

Rudo l f Fü rs t / F ranken 25

Schä f e r -F röh l i ch / Nahe 26

Gunder loch / Rhe i nhessen 27

Dr . Heger / Baden 28

Me ye r -Näke l / Ah r 29

S te l v in 3

E rs tes Gewächs & Grosses Gewächs 4

2 0 0 4 G e r m a n V i n ta g e R e p o r t

Rudi Wiest Selections

Purveyo rs o f Fin e German W ine



In a Nutshell… 2004 is a very good year in Germany for Riesling and Pinot varietals alike. For those of you who felt 2003 was “Über ripe,” rest assured 2004 will refresh your palate with the whip cracking acid structure and fruit-stuffing you desire. Put side by side, it’s clear ‘03 is the velvet gloved heavyweight, while ‘04 is exceptionally athletic in form, bright and full of vim and vigor.

Top producers deftly walked the acid high wire, sculpting wines which are harmonious and balanced. On the palate, one find’s a vivid array of juicy, shimmering, trim and crisp white tree fruits. While we often describe Riesling as bright and racy, 2004’s purity is particularly fetching. We have a soft-spot for 2004: the wines are crystalline in form, exhibit wonderful tension, and a classic Riesling structure.

Before traveling to Germany in late February, we heard reports 2004 was a “high acid” vintage. Not having tasted the wines, our minds raced back to 1996 and the cast-iron acidity that sent everyone running for the hills. Many did not return, until the very ripe and tropical ‘97s arrived. Now, don’t run off thinking the firmer backbone of ‘04 in any way resembles ’96. Yes, ’04 is a higher acid vintage, but one that is h a r m o n i o u s a nd balanced, with little botrytis and ample fruit.

’04 also has higher-than-average levels of extract helping to buffer acidity. It’s difficult to draw analogies in this vintage. It is so crisp and pure. Some estates feel ‘04 is a morph of 2001 and 2002, yet most feel it is similar to 2002. Hanno Zilliken (Saar) observed “...in 2004 you know these are Riesling wines.” A canny and concise description of ‘04’s crisp style. Bert Selbach, owner / winemaker at Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, commented that “2004 might have higher than average acidity compared to the past three vintages, but not the 1990s. When compared with the 1990s, I feel 2004 has an entirely normal amount of acidity.”

In 2003, achieving ripeness was an effortless process; this was not case in 2004. The majority of our producers stated it was top vineyards which were able to soak up the solar fuel needed to produce top quality wines in 2004. In late October, it was typical to find must weights in top sites ranging from 80 – 100 Öchsle, while average must weights hovered around 90 Öchsle. When harvest began, this translated into especially healthy, physiologically ripe, Spätlese quality fruit. Qualitatively, 2004 appears to be a very balanced vintage from region to region, and seems particularly good in the Mosel and Pfalz. At von Buhl in Deidesheim, 2004 easily marks their best effort since ’98, and Pfeffingen’s Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe and Riesling wines are stunning.

As you’ve surmised by now, 2004 is not a year of run away must weights. In fact most vineyards were hard pressed to yield anything over Auslese. Yields ranged from a meager 40 hl/ha at Schäfer-Fröhlich in the Nahe (due to hail), to a more typical 60 - 70 hl/ha for many estates. The 2004 growing season was described as not too hot and not too cold. Additionally, there was little rain until May. The summer was described as cool, but with robust vegetation. Several estates commented they were quite surprised vegetation was so energetic given the routine weather. This was a fortunate circumstance and there’s little doubt top sites provide some, if not all, of the explanation.

Since 2004 was a bit cooler, start of harvest at our estates, which typically begins around October 15th, was wisely pushed back by at least 10 days. Many estates began picking on October 25th. In the cooler Saar region, Bert Simon began his harvest November 5th. You’ll note a discrepancy between the aforementioned start dates, and those recorded in the phenological data (page 5). We can only attribute this difference to those numbers being an average for the respective regions. To our knowledge, ‘04 is the latest start of harvest in the past 25 years for our producers. The later date may have helped physiological

Jan Eymael, during our outstanding tasting at Pfeffingen

2004 Vintage Overview...

Wehlener Sonnenuhr



ripeness, but most importantly it allowed acidity to taper off. Some reported a reduction of 1 - 1.5 gm/l in this period. In general the harvest went quickly, with many estates picking for a scant two - three week period. A swift and uneventful harvest by German standards. The fruit was extremely healthy, with virtually no botrytis in any of the selections. The fruit fabric of this vintage is sheer and bursting with fine citrus and white fruit patterns. The ‘04 structure is unique; words such as brilliant, pure, racy and vivid appear often in our notes. QbA and Kabinett wines exhibit incredibly crisp white fruit notes such as Asian pear, white peach, apple and also tangy grapefruit. You begin to pick up red fruits in the Spätlesen and Auslesen, especially sweeter strawberry and raspberry profiles. The tangy citrus notes in Spätlese and Auslese wines often add a fine layer of orange concentration, which compliments zesty lemon / lime tones. At the GKA level, the wines can become moderately exotic, but most 2004 GKAs do not approach the date or fig profiles present in vintages with heavy botrytis. Quite to the contrary, ‘04 GKAs tend to maintain a profile like their Spätlese and Auslese siblings. They have an intense grip on the palate, white and red fruits, but then add ripe and

concentrated layers of pineapple, yellow peach and apricot. While many held out hope for a November / December noble sweet wine harvest, in the end it was not to be. Several estates achieved the basic ripeness levels for BA or TBA selections, but botrytis was unhealthy (wet / foul). However, some persevered with a diligent, painstaking selection process, which continued through January ’05 (yes, January), meticulously weeding out any sign of wet botrytis. These select estates were rewarded with a dry healthy botrytis. Gunderloch may be the chief benefactor of this waiting game, with a monster 284 Öchsle TBA with an estimated 12 – 13 gm/l of acid.

An unexpected surprise for Rudi Wiest Selections was the 2005 Gault-Millau wine guide. Gault Millau selected:

Karthäuserhof - 2005 Wine Maker of the Year Robert Weil - 2005 Collection of the Year Schäfer-Fröhlich - 2005 Newcomer of the Year

We congratulate Karthäuserhof, Robert Weil and Schäfer-Fröhlich and hope Gault Millau’s recognition of their wonderful wines will help introduce them to new customers.

Consider this formal notice that Rudi Wiest Selections is embarking on a Stelvin crusade. While controversial in Germany,

we are huge fans of alternative closures. For now Stelvin is the most practical solution, but we also like the Alcoa VinTegra glass closure. We are working toward a goal that every estate we represent use Stelvin or VinTegra on at least their QbA and Kabinett wines. Are there too many bottles of corked wine? We think so. Most everyone reading our vintage report has had the unfortunate experience of selecting a special bottle only to find the wine smells of wet cardboard, or is a muted version of what it should be. Having suffered too many of these experiences personally, we often wonder how many consumers have opened a bottle only to be disappointed because the wine did not fulfill their expectations. We fear most never realize the problem might have nothing to do with the winemaking, and it could very well be the silly piece of bark that compromised their experience.

Cork taint (TCA) might camouflage itself beneath the heavy oak and jammy fruit concentration found in other wines, but not in reductively styled Rieslings. Top German Rieslings exhibit such remarkable purity, even the slightest off note is more than likely due to TCA.

Some may ask, why not plastic corks? We tried, and frankly the results weren’t much better than our experience with natural corks. Some of our producers began using plastic / synthetic corks in the late 90s. Within a year we noticed muted fruit components in *some* bottles. While

the suspect bottles were not great in number, it didn't take long to realize synthetic corks weren’t a solution we were comfortable with. We’ve heard quite a few theories as to why this might be the case – the most common being that the plastic was somehow absorbing the wine’s sulfur insulation. Whatever the reason, in the end it came down to this: plastic cork’s purported superiority was not evident to us. Not to mention, the sometimes Herculean effort of trying to reinsert a plastic cork; good grief, if you can’t bench press 500lbs you might not succeed. As an importer we have so many responsibilities which go beyond selecting wine. What good are the refrigerated containers, our temperature controlled warehouse, and all of our other efforts when bottles are being compromised by tainted corks? We believe, by using Stelvin or VinTegra, there is an opportunity to guarantee each and every bottle is a wine of unwavering quality. We are pleased to say in 2004 RWS will offer 30+ wines with Stelvin. Gunderloch is bottling 7 of those selections. We’ve even managed to convince more traditional estates such as Fritz Haag to use Stelvin; Fritz Haag Riesling and Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett will have Stelvin closures in 2004. Rumor has it Joh. Jos. Prüm may even bottle the ‘04 QbA with Stelvin. Other estates joining the crusade include Mönchhof, Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, Schloss Lieser, von Hövel, Zilliken, Franz Künstler, Dr. Heger, Pfeffingen and von Buhl. To them we say “thank you,” and we take great pride in knowing every bottle will be in pristine condition, giving the consumer the experience they expect and deserve.



In 2005, Rudi Wiest Selections will continue to aggressively promote the many dry-styled wines of Germany. We feel it’s time to step out of the residual sugar box and do more for the Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs wines. Germany will continue to be world-renowned for Rieslings with at least moderate amounts of residual sugar – these are wines nobody can replicate. However, with the Austrian and Alsatian influx, we simply cannot believe the great dry wines of Germany must play second or third fiddle – heck, for the most part, they are not even on the radar screen. For those of you who say Germany can’t make dry wine, we say hogwash. Why not? The wines have every bit the delicacy and grace of their residual sugar counterparts. We feel dry wines from the Pfalz, Nahe, Rheingau, Franken and Rheinhessen will eventually change your mind.

Grosses and Erstes Gewächs wines are carefully selected from fully ripe and healthy (not botrytised) fruit, with minimum must weights of Spätlese and a yield of less than 50hl/ha. The Grosses Gewächs wines are vinified dry, and can have no more than 9 gm/l residual sugar (RS). The Nahe will change from the current 12 gm/l RS to 9 gm/l RS in 2005 to join the other Grosses Gewächs regions. In the Rheingau, the Erstes Gewächs RS formula is wine acid +2, with a maximum RS limit of 13 gm/l. So if an Erstes Gewächs wine has 9 gm/l acid, RS is limited to 11gm/l (9+2). The list below details the regions and varietals currently allowed to be bottled under Germany’s First Growth systems ** : Erstes Gewächs (all dry) Rheingau – Riesling, Pinot Noir

Grosses Gewächs (all dry) Pfalz – Riesling, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc Rheinhessen – Riesling, Pinot Noir Nahe – Riesling Baden – Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc Franken – Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Silvaner Ahr – Pinot Noir, Frühburgunder Württemberg – Riesling, Lemberger, Pinot Noir Sachsen - Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Traminer Saale-Unstrut – Riesling, Pinot Blanc Mittelrhein – Riesling

Just as the "residual sugar" Riesling revolution began with top Sommeliers 10 – 15 years ago, we are finally beginning to see cracks in the dam for top dry German wines - and it's the Sommeliers once again leading the charge. One of the early leaders supporting the movement is Master Sommelier Paul Roberts. Paul is responsible for the list at Thomas Keller's The French Laundry in Yountville and also helps direct Keller's Per Se in New York. We recently took some time with Paul to discuss the dry Riesling Grosses and Erstes Gewächs wines attempting to gain some insight as to why he feels these wines are important. Robert's feels the Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs wines of Germany are of the same class and distinction as any top white wine. In Paul’s opinion, the correct

varietal, planted on a great site, in combination with a top producer are fundamental in determining a wine’s potential. These are exactly the criteria Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs classifications are based upon. Erstes and Grosses Gewächs selections are very different from Alsace or White Burgundy mainly due to their firmer acidity and more crystalline fruit structure. The German Grosses and Erstes Gewächs Rieslings also have no oak or botrytis influences. Paul feels the lack of oak and botrytis are the wine’s greatest assets, yielding wines pure and singular in style. This style makes them unique in much the same way Rieslings with residual sugar are so inimitable. "In fact," Paul suggests, "Germany's finest dry Rieslings have an advantage when pairing them with dishes where purity of flavor is a focal point. The food is the key." Paul says "With the right dish I wouldn't hesitate using a dry German Erstes or Grosses Gewächs instead of a top White Burgundy, a Halibut preparation for example." Paul continues, "In my opinion, the idea that German wine either needs to be by the glass; or that the only other option is to pair a German noble sweet wine with Foie Gras is very outdated." He finishes with the observation "the great dry wines of Germany deserve a place on the list too." In addition to Robert’s efforts, Paul Grieco at Hearth in New York is also creating a Gewächs page for his wine list. In September of 2005, Rudi Wiest will be conducting Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs

tastings for the trade in New York and San Francisco.

Grosses Gewächs & Erste Lage logo

Erstes Gewächs logo

Rudi Wiest Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs offering:

Robert Weil ...........Riesling Erstes Gewächs - Kiedrich Gräfenberg

Wegeler ................Riesling Erstes Gewächs - Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs - Winkel Jesuitengarten

Rebholz ................Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Im Sonnenschein Pinot Blanc Grosses Gewächs - Im Sonnenschein Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Kastanienbusch

Pfeffingen ..............Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Ungstein Weilberg

von Buhl ................Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Forst Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Forst Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Forst Freundstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Deidesheim Paradiesgarten

Schäfer-Fröhlich ....Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Bockenauer Felseneck

Fürst ......................Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs - Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg

Wirsching...............Silvaner Grosses Gewächs - Julius Echter Berg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs - Kronsberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Julius Echter Berg Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Kronsberg

** Mosel-Saar-Ruwer first growths are made exclusively from Riesling, and designated “Erste Lage.” The Erste Lage & Grosses Gewächs logos are

shared / identical. Erste Lage wines have an unrestricted level of residual sugar (i.e. fruity) and therefore are not included in our remarks.



Vintage (Riesling)

2004

2003

2002

2001

Long Term Average

Bud Break

4/25

4/18

4/16

5/01

4/30

Flowering

6/17

6/06

6/15

6/22

6/25

Start of Ripening

8/30

8/02

8/26

8/23

8/30

Start of Harvest

10/21

10/11

10/29

10/26

10/13

Vintage

(Riesling)

2003

2002

2001

Long Term Average

Bud Break

4/19

4/14

4/29

4/25

Flowering

6/02

6/12

6/14

6/16

Start of Ripening

7/28

8/16

8/16

8/21

Start of Harvest

9/25

10/7

10/10

10/06

2004

4/22

6/10

8/22

10/15

Vintage (Riesling)

2004

2003

2002

2001

Long Term Average

Bud Break

4/23

4/19

4/22

4/30

4/24

Flowering

6/14

6/03

6/14

6/15

6/13

Start of Ripening

8/23

8/02

8/16

8/19

8/18

Start of Harvest

10/11

9/22

10/7

10/8

10/06

Phenological Data Mosel

Phenological Data Rheingau

Phenological Data Pfalz



Robert Eymael

2004 Mönchhof Ürzig / Mosel

Ürziger Würzgarten

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - “Mosel Slate” - Dusty pear in the aromatics. On the palate there are hints of banana and crisp citrus fruits. 100% Erdener Treppchen fruit yields an elegant structure. An excellent value.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Ürziger Würzgarten - Intensely spiced in the nose, where the Würzgarten iron morphs into an almost star anis profile. On the palate one finds Asian pear and juicy white peach notes. Good length.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Ürziger Würzgarten - A tick less acidity than the previous selections gives the wine a broader and richer feel on the palate than other ‘04’s. Lemony citrus mixes with trim white peach. There are exotic notes lurking in the background, but they will take time to surface.

2004 Riesling Auslese - Erdener Prälat - Beginnings of botrytis here, approx 20%. Ever so slight hint of saffron. The nose is very exotic, and the palate explodes with a great concentration of finely stenciled shades including banana, pineapple, peach, and a cinnamon-spiced mineral finish.

Harvest began at the Mönchhof on 10/26, focusing the first two weeks in the villages of Kinheim and Zeltingen - approximately 10 days later than normal. Robert feels strongly that top vineyards topped lesser sites in 2004. At the start of harvest, Robert’s Kinheim and Zeltingen sites measured 80 Öchsle, while Ürzig and Erden already checked in at 90 Öchsle. Harvest in Ürzig and Erden was pushed out until the middle of November, with extremely healthy must weights of 95 – 110 Öchsle. Picking was finished by the first week of December. Robert describes the weather throughout the year as normal, with not a lot of rain or sun. The 2004 collection is prototypical – juicy and upfront. What might catch some people by surprise is the acid; it can be quite firm in many of the selections. This is true even at the Auslese level, where wines like the Erdener Treppchen Auslese provide a surprising and welcome amount of grip. In 2004 Robert will be bottling not only the Mönchhof Estate Riesling, but also the Mönchhof Kabinett and Spätlese wines with Stelvin.

2004 marks the return of the Mönchhof Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett (replacing the Astor) and a new label for the Estate Riesling (see above). Robert would also like to increase awareness of Riesling from the Mönchhof’s Erdener Treppchen holdings in 2004. The “Mosel Slate” Spätlese (right) is the result of many deliberations and an effort on Robert’s behalf to place a focus on Riesling originating from the Treppchen’s blue slate terroir. The “Mosel Slate” Spätlese is noticeably different than the Ürziger Würzgarten, offering more exotic Erdener tones and a rich, flowing texture (Stelvin closure).

Estate Riesling (QbA)

2004 Riesling - Estate - Ripe, citrus pear with hints of minerality. On the palate the wine has good concentration, with a pineapple-like zing. It is particularly spicy with excellent length for a QbA.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Ürziger Würzgarten - Surprisingly rich for a Mosel Kabinett, picked at an impressive 94 Öchsle. Finely perfumed, whiffs of iris and mineral with a sweet, but tightly wound, fruit core. Firm acidity makes the wine finish almost Medium Dry, despite having 60 gm/l residual sugar.



Norbert Breit

2004 Wegeler Bernkastel / Mosel

Add 2003 to Norbert Breit’s list of impressive accomplishments including the wines of 1997 and 2001. The wines in ‘97 had tremendous structure and that reoccurring, intriguing tropical fruit wardrobe, while the ‘01s were as filigreed and de-tailed as any of the best middle Mosel estates. 2003 represents another dimension in terms of structure and balance. Finely toned minerality and insurmountably rich fruit collide with precise, but incredible volume. During our tasting there was a unanimous opinion these were the best Bernkasteler Doctor and Wehlener Sonnenuhr wines we’ve ever had from this estate. While the Sonnenuhr wines are excellent, the Bernkasteler Doctor gems steal the show hands down. While there’s no mistaking these examples for anything other than 03s, they aren’t overdone, and manage to maintain a style that’s believable for each of the Prädikats selected. The Doctor Spätlese was our favorite, expensive yes, but a mind-boggler and worth every penny. If you looking for an impressive example without the Doctor price, give serious consid-eration to the brilliant Estate Spätlese which is a blend of Graacher Himmelreich and Bernkasteler Graben Spätleses, one of the best Spätlese values we will offer from the 03 vintage. The vintage also includes Doctor BA and TBA.

Norbert Breit, cellarmaster at Wegeler’s Mosel property, describes 2004 as a classic Riesling vintage. Selections at Wegeler range up through Auslese, with the exception of an Eiswein picked on 12/21. The 2004 harvest started very late, beginning on October 26th and finishing on December 21st. The structure is clearly defined, and at the core of all selections is a laser-like acid structure and crystalline pure fruit. This collection is particularly reductive in style. Like many vintners, Nobert Breit feels 2004 was best in top vineyard sites. The concentration of flavors found in the Wegeler Sonnenuhr and Doctor selections seems to endorse his theory.

One of the interesting observations when tasting the Wegeler collection was that many of the wines offered a deeper concentration than what the must weights would lead you to believe. For example the ’04 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese, having a must weight of 89 Öchsle, yields a wine with incredible lightness but with a heady intensity. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Prädikat wines are elegant and dusty, whereas the Bernkasteler Doctor’s enchant you with wonderful pinpoint mineral details. If you’re a fan of Joh. Jos. Prüm and Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr wines, you should explore the Wegeler Sonnenuhr examples. They are every bit the equal of the more famous Prüm selections, but few are aware of the wines.

Norbert Breit Bernkasteler Doctor


2004 Riesling - Estate - A bit tight at the time of tasting. On the palate, the acidity is very firm. The wine is extremely bright and crisp, offering mouthwatering pear and apple fruit. The finish is packed for a QbA, with intense minerality, and sprig of red fruit that bursts on the finish.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - Juicy apple fruit and citrus in the nose, with fine slate notes. This Kabinett offers excellent concentration, a harmonious tension, and is fine and delicate like all top Sonnenuhr examples.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - Slate permeates the nose, a very fine and dusty mineral profile. Shows wonderfully concentrated pear, orange and rose hip profiles, defying what one would expect from a wine with a must weight of “only” 89 Öchsle. Great length.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Bernkasteler Doctor - The Doctor was a bit shy at the time of tasting when compared to the Sonnenuhr Spätlese. It is easy to see the breed in this wine and pinpoint mineral details which are so different from the Sonnenuhr. On the palate the core is dense and sweet. White peach and zingy citrus notes sparkle within the firm acidy. This will need some time to unfold, but the balance and purity indicate it will be fabulous.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Bernkasteler Doctor - Expresses a fine mineral structure, similar to the Spätlese, but with more exotic fruit stitching. Banana, yellow peach, sweet ripe strawberry, and shades of pineapple. Not a particularly big Auslese, it might best be described as having Spätlese weight, but Auslese concentration. It successfully strikes a classic and wonderful Mosel Auslese balance. With no botrytis, it offers up incredible citrus tension, exotic concentration, pinpoint slate minerality and soul stealing purity.



2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlen / Mosel

Over the years we’ve spent many enjoyable evenings with Dr. Manfred Prüm. Questions posed to Dr. Prüm are seldom answered quickly, and he takes great care and gives considerable thought before expressing his opinion. For those of you who know his wines, you can begin drawing your parallels now. When pressing Dr. Prüm for information regarding 2004, we asked if another winemaker’s comment about the vintage bearing similarities to 1990 made any sense. Unusually quick to react, Dr. Prüm expressed that ‘04, in his opinion, bore absolutely no resemblance to ’90 due to lower acidity, no botrytis and lower must weights. We concur. Manfred feels 2004 is more of a combination of 2001 and 2002, an interesting combination that we noted at other estates. At such an early stage, it is hard to get much information from Dr. Prüm, and even more difficult to take detailed notes on the wines. What we can say is that the 2004 Joh. Jos. Prüm wines are racy, with a fruit structure that seems to be vacuum packed around the acidity and soil. Not as opulent as the ‘02s, and with a tenacious acidity, the ‘04s are wines filled with youthful vigor, etching themselves into your palate. In the ‘04 Joh. Jos. Prüm selections one again finds that classic Riesling framework. We feel they have an edge over the 2002s.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - Pear and slate in the nose. This is classic Wehlener Sonnenuhr, very intricate and delicate in style. Shows primarily pear fruit at the time of tasting, but this wine will open a great deal with just a bit of time. Racy, long finish.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Graacher Himmelreich - White peach fruit dominates the nose, less aromatic than you expect for a Graacher. Our gut tells us this is less to do with the time of tasting, and is more reflective of the vintage. On the palate the wine has a dominant earthy minerality that carries through the finish.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - The fruit here is more advanced than in the Kabinett. Even for a Wehlener, this selection is very elegant. Lemon citrus acidity, with juicy pear fruit that rushes across the palate like a fresh mountain stream flowing over a foundation of slate. So crystalline, very good length.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Graacher Himmelreich - More Graach-like than the Kabinett selection. Here the aromatics move into lighter yellow peach fruit. This wine has more of the typical Graach fruit richness, and the looser minerality of the Himmelreich offers up spicy, piquant tones. Driving mineral finish.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Dr. Manfred Prüm



2003 Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Wehlen / Mosel

While we understand this is an ‘04 vintage report, we wanted to address an issue with the Dr. F. Weins-Prüm estate. For those of you not aware, much like Dr. Thanisch in the Mosel, there are also two “Weins-Prüm” estates. Like Thanisch, the labels used by each estate are nearly identical to the untrained eye; it’s only when looking closely that the differences become apparent. 1) Rudi Wiest represents Dr. F. Weins-Prüm – with the “Dr. F” separating our estate by name from the other Weins-Prüm estate. 2) Our Dr. F. Weins-Prüm is also a VDP estate. Look for the eagle on the capsule and label (Weins-Prüm is not a VDP member). In some instances, the Weins-Prüm wines have been, for the most part unknowingly, represented as Dr. F. Weins-Prüm selections. This has become an issue over the past two years. We felt it necessary to clarify this confusing situation.

Dr. F. Weins-Prüm continues to impress us vintage after vintage. Bert Selbach started his harvest on October 25 and finished quickly on November 16. Bert feels the vintage is unique because it has a more pronounced acidity when compared to ‘01 and ‘02. He is quick, however, to point out the vintage isn’t particularly “high” in acid if you compare it to the vintages of the 1990s. Bert raised the residual sugar level in the Estate Riesling: it’s now on the cusp of Medium Dry and Fruity. Bert will be bottling the 2004 Estate Riesling with a Stelvin capsule as well.


2004 Riesling Medium-Dry - Estate - This year the residual sugar is 17+ gm/l, and with the firmer ’04 acidity we feel this was a wise move on Bert’s behalf as it helps to strike a better balance. Dusty slate, exceptionally focused and bright, juicy pear, with hints of raspberry red fruit.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Graacher Himmelreich - Exotic for an ‘04 Kabinett. Vibrant aromatics show white peach with hints of fresh cut pineapple and red fruit. It is quite rich for a Kabinett, with an unending minerality on the finish.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - Very fine, almost reserved nose at this point, with bits of pear and slate. The elegance of the ashy, slate soil glistens through the pear fruit. It has such intensity that it seems to glow on the palate.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Graacher Domprobst - Vivid aromatics, bright and concentrated. On the palate the wine shows pear, lemon-lime, and banana, with a hint of exotic spice. Juicy, rich, and tangy finish.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Wehlener Sonnenuhr - The youthful and ripe fruit insulation suppresses the mineral details in the aromatics. On the palate, the wine shows better focus, with even a tick more concentration than the Graacher Spätlese. White peach and cherry fruit, with a superb mineral and acid structure.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Erdener Prälat - This is what we love about the Prälat, it has the flow and blue slate power of Erden, but with the spicy influences of Ürzig. Exotic mango and banana tones on the palate, but still has that finely detailed minerality. Bert is releasing 50 out of 100 cases to the American market.

Looking from Graach to Wehlen Bert Selbach



Like many growers from the Mosel, Thomas Haag notes that the summer in the Mosel in 2004 was cool and uneventful. He comments that vegetation, given the cool temperatures, was robust. Thomas also points out until May there wasn’t much rain, but from that point forward precipitation was above normal. At Schloss Lieser, harvest began approximately 10 days later than average. When asked if he feels the vintage is like any other, Thomas comments it reminds him a lot of 2002. While we see similarities with 2002, the 2004 Schloss Lieser wines have a firmer acid composition. Thomas continues to increase the Schloss Lieser holdings in the Brauneberger Juffer and Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr vineyards. In 2004 we will offer four Brauneberger wines, a Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese and GKA. Stylistically, the Lieser Brauneberger’s are denser than those found at Fritz Haag, a result of winemaking and must weight. Thomas uses only wild yeasts, and Schloss Lieser Prädikat wines are generally picked at a higher must weight. For example, the Fritz Haag Juffer Kabinett was picked at 86 Öchsle, while the Lieser Juffer Kabinett weighs in at 93 Öchsle. Within the Schloss Lieser collection, styles are markedly different as well. The Niederberg Helden continues to offer a more cerebral experience, with Thomas whipping the fruit and earthly terroir into a seamless form. Yet only ½ mile away from the earthy Helden, come the looser soil selections of Brauneberg. At Lieser they are more opulent, viscous and fruit forward. With Schloss Lieser working in Brauneberg and Lieser, the collection offers a wine for every palate, but the Niederberg Helden wines remain our favorite because they are so stylish and distinctive.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Estate - Still young, a bit of lees is apparent along with minerally and white stone fruit. Fairly compact on the palate, showing pear with a big mineral push on the finish.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Brauneberger Juffer - Fruit is richer in style than the equivalent Fritz Haag Kabinett, picked at a substantial 93 Öchsle. This packed Kabinett is flush with white peach fruit, round and nicely textured. Good length.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr - Like the Juffer Kabinett, this wine is quite substantial compared to the Fritz Haag selection. The wine explodes onto the palate with incredible power. Grapefruit, yellow peach, and a lemony fresh acidity that operates within a creamy texture.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Niederberg Helden - Totally different than the Sonnenuhr Spätlese, more reserved, elegant, and focused. Well proportioned amounts of pear, apple and mysterious dark earth tones swirl together. You must pay attention to understand.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese – Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr - Rich and opulent nose. On the palate the wine is true to the aromatics, providing a dense and chewy texture. Grapefruit, and ripe pineapple flood the palate. Similar to the Spätlese, but with a tick more concentration and better slate detail on the finish.

2004 Riesling Auslese – Niederberg Helden - We were sure there was some botrytis, but Thomas insists the fruit was 100% healthy. While this might be true, the wine’s concentration is intense, and the compressed yellow peach sometimes plays tricks on the palate and morphs into a bright honey-like profile, with red berry fruit. Once again it is the graceful quality of this vineyard that is so fetching.

2004 Schloss Lieser Lieser / Mosel

Thomas Haag Niederberg Helden



The big news at Fritz Haag with the 2004 vintage is the passing of the torch from winemaking legend Wilhelm Haag to youngest son Oliver Haag. Winemaking changes at this level often give rise to questions regarding quality, regardless of whether the torch is being passed to a family member or hired gun. Rest assured there is no need to ask these questions about Fritz Haag. Some are aware that Oliver Haag spent the past two years with Weingut Wegeler in the Rheingau and Mosel honing his skills. While we delighted in the having the “Mosel touch” express itself in Wegeler’s Rheingau wines, the 2004 collection at Fritz Haag demonstrates that Oliver is exactly where he belongs – in Brauneberg. Father and son worked together during the 2004 vintage. Quite frankly, when tasting the wines it would be impossible to tell that anyone other than Wilhelm Haag was at the controls. In fact the only break from tradition in 2004 is a welcome one: the use of a Stelvin closure for the 2004 Estate Riesling and Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett wines. The 2004 Juffer selections, both Kabinett and Spätlese, are expertly honed and offer a bit more in the aromatics and have a broader mouth feel than in previous vintages. The Juffer Sonnenuhr wines offer a humbling demonstration of precision slate detail in concert with Haag’s supernatural sense of balance. QbA – GKA was selected, yet another remarkable vintage from this outstanding estate. 2004 is a clear indication of what we can expect from Fritz Haag in the future. Stylistically the wines will remain unchanged and continue to provide a benchmark for Riesling, regardless of its origin. 2004 is a Brauneberger vintage!


2004 Riesling - Estate – Our nomination for “Best RWS QbA” in 2004. The harmony, structure and balance in this wine are awe-inspiring, and it’s “only” a QbA. Red fruit, pear, and a rousing minerality.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Brauneberger Juffer - The aromatics offer fine slate details. On the palate the wine has incredible clarity, and is also a bit creamy. Fresh picked apple and pear, with a long and intense slate finish.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Brauneberger Juffer - White peach, with hints of orange in the nose. On the palate the wine is rich and broad for Haag Spätlese - offering a clear differentiation between Juffer and Sonnenuhr. This Spätlese is easier to understand due to its broader style, but is still tooled with precision.

Auslese and beyond

2004 Riesling Auslese - Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr - If the QbA, Kabinett and Spätlese have left any doubt in your mind as to whether or not this is a “Haag” vintage - this Auslese will make you a believer. Pear, apple, gooseberry, cinnamon and spiced grapefruit. It is amazingly fine - no botrytis - with a detailed, persistent, flinty finish.

2004 Riesling GKA - Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr - Still maintains the pure ‘04 profile, but at the GKA level you find a bit of botrytis - about 20%. On the palate, white and yellow peach, strawberry, a denser exotic mango and juicy pineapple play key roles as well. As much as it’s showing now (Feb ’05), it is obviously still very compact and will only improve with time.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr - Amazing, textbook example of an ‘04 Spätlese. Superb combination of texture, fruit and fine slate mineral facets. Primary fruit is white peach, but it’s exotic too, with a hint of pineapple. Spine-tingling brightness and purity.

2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberg / Mosel

Oliver & Wilhelm Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr



In 2004, Reinhold Haart continues the full court press with his Erste Lage selections. For those who didn’t catch the news about the Erste Lage program last year, we should again point out that it is much different than the Grosses Gewächs or Erstes Gewächs systems being implemented in other regions. The primary difference being that the “Erste Lage” program focuses on the best estates and vineyards. The residual sugar level (dry or fruity) and Prädikat levels are irrelevant. This means you will see Piesporter Goldtröpfchen “Erste Lage” Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese selections from Reinhold Haart. The 2004 vintage at Reinhold Haart is a bit less exotic than usual, but the wines still show classic primary white and yellow peach aromas. Haart started harvest October 25, and it lasted until mid November. Theo is confident delaying harvest helped the structure dramatically, scrubbing off as much as 1.5 gm/l of acid in some of his selections. Theo reports Öchsle levels increased a bit during this period as well and feels the higher than normal levels of sugar free extracts help buffer the firm acid structure nicely. Theo feels the vintage is close in quality to 2002 or 1998 and that ’04 also resembles ’94 from an acidity and structure standpoint. Selections include QbA – Auslese with must weights ranging from 90 – 100 Öchsle, plus a small lot of GKA at 130 Öchsle.

Estate Riesling

2004 Riesling - Haart to Heart - For those enamored by the first vintage (2003), know that 2004 is different. Still very good, but leaner, and more laser-like, it shows white peach fruit with hints of raspberry.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Piesporter - A bit of lees at the time of tasting, but not at all uncommon for young Haart wines. Earthy white peach flavors with a long and intricate finish.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Piesporter Goldtröpfchen * Erste Lage * - More dominate terroir note than in the Piesporter Kabinett. Piquant acidity, essence of white peach and raspberry, and a finish of exotic spices. Finely honed.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Piesporter - So typical of Haart. Tropical in the nose, with the brown earth power of Piesport. It’s peach fruit is juicy and broad compared to the Goldtröpfchen. Like Haag’s Juffer, it’s crafted to drink now.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Piesporter Goldtröpfchen * Erste Lage * - It’s aromatics are so incredibly pungent that you can begin taking notes as the wine is being poured. Much more exotic than the Piesporter, with smoky earth, yellow peach, orange, tangerine, cassis, strawberry and intense citrus flavors. Great drive and power for a Spätlese.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Piesporter Goldtröpfchen * Erste Lage * - Deeper and darker notes than the Spätlese. Very exotic, viscous yellow peach and cassis flavors. Wine hits the palate with a copious mass of fruit, mineral and acid intensity. It is rich but also very high strung. The juicy acid structure provides this Auslese fabulous cut and delineation.

2004 Reinhold Haart Piesport / Mosel

Village of Piesport Theo Haart



2004 Milz-Laurentiushof Trittenheim / Mosel

Markus Milz describes the 2004 vintage as having great balance. The monopole Trittenheimer Leiterchen and Trittenheimer Felsenkopf sites did very well, with the top wine of the vintage a Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Auslese selection . Markus says the fruit in 2004 was extremely healthy, and that yield was somewhere in the 60 – 65 hl/ha range. Markus also describes the vintage as having a “classic” Riesling style. One surprise in the tasting was the ’04 Trittenheimer Apotheke Spätlese; it gives the more famous Felsenkopf and Leiterchen Spätleses a serious run for the money. At Milz, Kabinett – Auslese selections represent the core of the vintage. While the vintage at other estates appears to be more reserved, the Milz wines show a quite a bit of fruit power, but that has become a trademark of the estate in recent vintages. New for 2004 is a Trittenheimer Kabinett, a change from the traditional Piesporter Hofberg Kabinett offering.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Trittenheimer - This is a new selection for Markus, and replacement for our old friend the Piesporter Hofberg Kabinett. Round pear and peach slate toned fruit, with a splash of citrus.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Piesporter - A bit more delineation than the Trittenheimer Kabinett with very similar white peach fruit profile. The acid here absolutely sizzles, and provides a mouth drying finish.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Trittenheimer Felsenkopf - Wine was very tight at the time of tasting. It did exhibit the flowing quality we look for in the Felsenkopf, but needs some time to unwind. The balance is harmonious.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Trittenheimer Leiterchen - Like the Felsenkopf it’s a bit tight, but does manage to show more fruit. White peach and Granny Smith apples, with a spiky lemon-toned acidity. It’s finely detailed slate minerality swabs the deck on the finish.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Trittenheimer Apotheke - Our favorite Spätlese at the time of tasting, which is a further indication the Felsenkopf and Leiterchen are tight. Has very good richness, white peach and gooseberry dominate, very filigreed for an Apotheke, this type detail is usually only found in the Leiterchen.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Trittenheimer Felsenkopf - Stony nose, with whiffs of blue slate. On the palate the wine has a white and yellow peach mix with a tangy orange / lemon acid structure. Very juicy and plump, good length.

Markus Milz Trittenheimer Apotheke



Having been freshly anointed Winemaker of the Year for 2005 by Gault-Millau, Christoph Tyrell was in a particularly jovial mood when we visited him on February 20th. In our opinion, this honor was long overdue. For many years Christoph and his team, in particular Ludwig Breiling (cellarmaster) and brother Marcel Tyrell, have been crafting what can only be described as some of the purest Rieslings on Earth. The idyllic setting of the manor house and horse stables, with the remarkable Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg monopole as a backdrop, is almost as breathtaking as the wines themselves. In 2004, the Karthäuserhof’s fabulously gritty iron terroir is especially dominant and in combination with the vintage’s piquant acidity, these ‘04s leave your mouth watering for more. Many of the aromatics offer whiffs of ripe white peach that are permeated by finely focused pinpoints of iron. The Karthäuserhof belongs to an elite group of estates who fashion wines from Germany’s greatest terroirs. For those of you pleading for the return of the Karthäuserhof neck label (above), we are only happy to oblige and tell you one of the coolest wine labels on the planet is returning on all Karthäuserhof selections in 2004.


2004 Riesling Medium-Dry - Estate - Pear, green apple and cassis in the nose. Incredible focus, the iron minerals push through the fruit. On the palate the wine is steely, with a driving citrus character - very crisp. Very clear and fine.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg - Not a huge must weight difference between this Spätlese and the Kabinett. The aromatics are similar with mostly white peach, orange and cassis - but with an added layer of yellow peach. One also sees the beginnings of red raspberry fruit. On the palate, the iron minerality is noticeably more dominate than in the Kabinett, providing a more delineated structure.

Auslese & beyond

2004 Riesling Auslese - Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg - Robust minerality in the nose, almost searing the nasal cavity with it’s intense iron aromas. The notes become slightly exotic on the palate, with hints of pineapple in addition to the peach and orange fruits. This takes the Spätlese to the next level. Great textural mid-palate creaminess not seen in the Kabinett and Spätlese Prädikat wines.

2004 Riesling GKA - Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg - Saffron and honey in the nose, telltale botrytis notes, but the nose was otherwise a bit closed at the time of tasting. On the palate this GKA can begin to finally flex its muscles, with tropical notes, yellow peach, apricot, mango, and a sizzling lime acidity.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg - The extra RS helps drive the fruit in the aromatics. Stony pear is the dominate aroma. On the palate the fruit picks up even more, taking the from of white peach, orange, and cassis. Finish is tantalizing, with the juxtaposition of fruit, acidity and iron minerals providing a wonderful tension.

Spätlese

2004 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbach / Ruwer

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Christoph Tyrell



Much of von Hövel’s 2004 collection is about tension. These are spring loaded Saar Rieslings sure to gain the favor of Riesling aficionados. From QbA – Spätlese, von Kunow’s selections sizzle with a classic, steely Saar acid structure. We feel obligated to point out to those of you who haven’t tried the von Hövel 2003s, please do: these wines have developed into some of our favorites from the ’03 vintage. While it could be argued that in ‘03 the Scharzhofberger faired better with its deeper soil, in 2004 the Oberemmeler Hütte (monopole) is once again king. In addition to the long-established line of von Hövel selections, there was one surprise addition in the form of a von Hövel Erste Lage wine for 2004. The Kanzemer Hörecker is von Hövel’s first Erste Lage offering, and it’s a stunner - one of our favorite selections in 2004. The Hörecker will be available in limited quantities.

2004 von Hövel Oberemmel / Saar

Eberhard von Kunow Entryway to von Hövel


2004 Riesling - "Balduin von Hövel" - Stone and pear dominate the nose. On the palate one also finds a hint of pineapple. A very steely acid structure scrubs the palate, this is a classic, sleek, Saar QbA.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Oberemmeler Hütte - Once again a nose dominated by pear and stone fruit. On the palate this Kabinett is absolutely plugged in, the acidity is electric. While the wine’s tension draws your attention first, underneath one finds pure pear fruit, with the wonderfully fine dusty, Hütte soil that carries through nicely on the finish.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Oberemmeler Hütte - Pear and blue slate in the nose. On the palate, the core of white tree fruit is rounder than the Kabinett. Fine dusty structure, with the acidity glowing brightly throughout, it really lifts at the end with a whip-cracking finish.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Scharzhofberger - Laden with white tree fruit, but with more concentration than the Hütte, this profile carries over to the palate as well. The Hütte is more laser-like, while the deep soil of the Scharzhofberger helps give this wine more fill. Less exotic than in vintages past, but with a distinct deep, dark mineral edge.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Oberemmeler Hütte - Most forward wine of the vintage. Compared to the Kabinett and Spätlese, the fruit here is incredibly opulent. Citrus tang, pineapple, red fruit, very pure in structure. One of our better Auslesen in 2004. A lip-smacking Auslese, with an incessant lime-like acidity that just never stops. Great length on the finish, pure and true to Auslese form.

Erste Lage

2004 Riesling Auslese - Kanzemer Hörecker * Erste Lage * - Extremely limited, only 1000 liters selected, which translates into ~ 110 cases. Our first experience with this wine and it’s very impressive. Fine mineral details, a more forward minerality than the Hütte. Tremendous texture on the palate, very fine mineral and citrus profile, gooseberry, pear, and raspberry fruits on the palate. Outstanding!



About 15 minutes into our ’04 tasting at Zilliken, Hanno Zilliken offered a concise vintage assessment simply by stating, “Yes…(looking intently into his glass)…you know these are Riesling wines.” Those words encompass the way we feel when tasting not only Zilliken’s 2004s, but also the vintage in general. Hanno Zilliken feels 2004 is a model Riesling vintage. Hanno draws parallels between 2004 and 1994. The key difference in 2004 vs. 1994 is the lack of botrytis; the fruit in 2004 was perfectly healthy with very little, if any, botrytis. The lack of botrytis in ‘04 adds to the crystalline quality of Hanno’s selections, and the mineral structure and acidity are quite dominant even in the “bigger” selections, such as the 103 Öchsle Saarburger Rausch Auslese. 2004 was a relatively quick harvest at Zilliken, starting on 10/20 and ending on 11/15. Hanno did manage to pick an Eiswein on 12/21, which will more than likely be bottled as a GKA or LGKA and sent to auction. The core of the vintage are his QbA – Spätlese selections. Hanno joins our band of Stelvin supporters, and will bottle his Butterfly Estate Riesling (QbA) with a Stelvin in 2004.

2004 Zilliken Saarburg / Saar

Saarburg from the Rausch Hanno & Ruth Zilliken


2004 Riesling - “Butterfly” - Fine sparkling minerality, selected from the Saarburger Rausch. Even with ‘04s firm acid structure, Hanno has managed to harness the essence of the Butterfly’s style, delivering a wine which floats on the palate. More verve than the ’03, its pear and mineral physique are a result of the ‘04 vintage.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Saarburger Rausch - Aromatics shimmer with mineral and stone pear fruit. The wine gleams on the palate, sleek and polished, with juicy, tangy white peach mixing with hints of red fruit. Incredible sparkling mineral details on the finish.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Saarburger Rausch - Floral, rose-like aromas merge with yellow peach fruit in the nose. While at the time of tasting this Spätlese was still unfolding, it is easy to find smoky, ash-like terroir details, while a spray of orange, peach, and pear fruit provide clues about the wine’s future. Great length.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Saarburger Rausch - More delineated terroir structure peppers the white peach fruit. Not a big Auslese, like other ’04s it is more trim and fit. Adds a layer of red strawberry and cherry fruit to the Spätlese, along with white peach and a hint of blueberry. There are slight saffron notes (botrytis) and a peppered mineral finish.




2004 Riesling - Estate - Delicate floral aromas. For a wine with 50gm/l residual, it finishes with a crisp snap and dry swirl of steely acidity and minerals. Light floral notes mix with pear and crisp apple.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Serriger Herrenberg - A bit further along than the ‘04 Würtzberg, it is more elegant without the Würtzberg spice. On the palate it shows the more typical green apple and slate details.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Serriger Würtzberg - Focused iris and spice aromas in the nose. This Riesling’s grip on the palate is intense. You only find wines like this in the Saar. Lemon, grapefruit and pear race through your senses, and the finish has very good length.

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Serriger Würtzberg - Nose is tight at the time of tasting, but the iron-rich sedimentary soil provides a light spice in the aromatics. On the palate, the wine shows a wonderful fine-grain mineral detail, with Bartlett pear and a delicate spice.

2004 Bert Simon Serrig / Saar

Bert Simon Serriger Würtzberg

As we stated in our ’03 vintage report, “Please do not overlook Bert Simon’s 2003 collection; there is something very special here that does not come around too often.” Not surprisingly, the Wine Spectator bestowed some of it’s top scores on Bert Simon, with 95 points for his “basic” Serriger Herrenberg Auslese, 96 points for his GKA, and 97 points the GKA*. Simon also did well in the Fine Wine Review, with a slew of 90 points scores for his Spätlese - GKA selections, plus a 98 point score for his TBA. Now consider that the Serriger Herrenberg Auslese, which garnered 95 points in the Spectator sells for $39, and his Spätlese, which received 91 points from the Fine Wine Review, sells for only $20, and you can see why we contend that Bert Simon offers exceptional value and benchmark quality.

While 2003 was a monster vintage for Bert, 2004 represents a shift back to the more delicate, fresh, sparkling, full- of-tension style the Saar is famous for. Regardless of style, we’ve now had three solid vintages in a row from Bert Simon. Although his ’04 offering is limited to QbA, Kabinett and Spätlese selections – the wines are all earmarked by that classic steely Saar acidity. In fact, his QbA, with 50 gm/l residual sugar, finishes dry.

We will continue to offer Bert’s amazing ’03 noble selections in parallel with the Kabinett and Spätlese wines of 2004. Bert never ceases to amaze us with offerings from his cellar. This year he stunned us with a 90 Serriger Würtzberg Auslese and a 1996 Serriger Würtzberg Spätlese. Both wines are drinking wonderfully now, and they will be available from our Napa warehouse in the summer of 2005.



Wilhelm Weil points out that 2002 and 2003 were marked by extreme weather situations, but 2004 was relatively uneventful. Although the summer seemed cooler than normal, weather data shows otherwise, with 2004 warmer than the 30-year average. Vegetation time during the months of July and August was optimal and ripening began early. Precipitation came at optimum times, allowing the soil to regain a good water balance after the dry weather of 2003. An ideal Indian summer set in at the end of August and continued well into October. Must weights increased dramatically and quickly. Weil began harvest on 10/11 and found only healthy fruit. Grapes displayed a wonderful fruitiness and intense flavors, with excellent physiological ripeness (reflected in their high must weights). The harvest culminated with an Eiswein picked on 12/21. For sixteen consecutive years, Weil’s harvest has yielded every quality level, including Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese – a remarkable accomplishment. We found the 2004 Weil wines to be extremely reductive and pure in style. The wines are finely honed with a brilliant underlying structure. Weil feels 2004 can be viewed as a “classic” Riesling year – with the wines offering an undeniable Riesling profile. Average yield was the same as the long-term 55 hl/ha. In 2005, Robert Weil added the 2005 Gault Millau “Collection of the Year” award to their 1997 Gault Millau “Wine Maker of the Year” award.


2004 Riesling Dry - Estate - Fine mineral notes, hints of white peach. On the palate the wine has a prominent, almost gritty, mineral texture. Lemon and grapefruit citrus flavors. Incredibly bright, polished and very reductive.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett Medium Dry - Estate - Electric on the palate, with a fine dusty terroir. Extra residual sugar gives the wine a bit more dimension on the palate. Pear, white peach, and a hint of raspberry.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Estate - 100% Kiedricher Wasseros, yellow peach and raspberry dominate the nose. This translates to the palate, with added dimensions of lime and orange citrus tang. Great concentration on the palate, sweet and sour interplay.

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Kiedricher Gräfenberg - Picked at 106 Öchsle, this wine builds upon the Estate Spätlese. Yellow peach, cassis, strawberry, pure and crystalline in form with no botrytis - this Spätlese has fantastic concentration. It also hints at the tropical with banana and guava notes.

Auslese and beyond

2004 Riesling Auslese - Kiedricher Gräfenberg - BA power and so sophisticated. Creamy yellow peach, hint of apricot, with approximately 20% botrytis. Honey, apricot, and sweet strawberry fruit on the palate. Shows more like a GKA than an Auslese. Must weight of 126 Öchsle with 10 gm/l acidity.

2004 Riesling BA - Kiedricher Gräfenberg - Amazing nose, finely perfumed and elegant. On the palate, the wine has a considerable viscosity, very focused apricot fruit, yellow peach, honey, exotic mango and spicy mineral notes. Very bright structure, the acidity here is fantastic, 12 gm/l, and makes this BA really swing.

2004 Riesling TBA - Kiedricher Gräfenberg - 206 Öchsle / 300 RS / 15 Acid 2004 Riesling Eiswein - Kiedricher Gräfenberg - 170 Öchsle / 250 RS / 13 Acid

2004 Robert Weil Kiedrich / Rheingau

Kiedricher Gräfenberg Wilhelm Weil & Jochen Becker-Köhn



The 2004 Franz Künstler collection provides Rheingau richness, framed by a tenacious, citrus-hued acidity. The amount of acidity is average (8 - 8.5 gm/l), but it is particularly firm in character. In most selections we would have guessed 9+ gm/l. The acid provides wonderful grip on the palate and cuts through the intense fruit core. The Reichestal Kabinett and Kirchenstück Spätlese both showed extremely well. What we felt was particularly impressive was the clarity in Gunter’s ’04 selections. 2004 is not the big noble sweet wine vintage 2003 was at Franz Künstler. The focus in 2004 is on the selections up through Spätlese, both in the fruity and dry categories. No Auslesen were selected at Franz Künstler in 2004. Gunter has been working harder than ever to scratch his way back to the top of the Rheingau, pushing the reset button and making changes to both vineyard and cellar management. Gunter hired Rolf Schregel as his main man in the cellar and to also assist with the outside work in the vineyards. Schregel is a graduate of the winemaking school in Weinsberg. He spent time in New Zealand to broaden his horizons, but for the past eight years he was in charge of the Rheinhessen estate Villa Sachson, in which VDP president Prinz Salm has a majority ownership. Another forward thinker, Künstler is finishing both our QbA and Kabinett selections with a Stelvin enclosure.


2004 Riesling - Estate - Round, charming Rheingau style. Flood of white peach fruit on the palate, carries through to the finish. Smoky mineral components. Closes well with a bright lemon toned acid zing.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Hochheimer Reichestal - True to form, Künstler crafts yet another monster Kabinett. With its sizeable concentration this would-be Spätlese from any other estate. Despite its size, the wine manages to maintain a trim white fruit profile, which includes Asian pear and white peach. Flash of red fruit on the finish mixes with tangy sweet and sour profiles.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Hochheimer Kirchenstück - The top wine at Künstler in ‘04, this Spätlese is superb. Very focused, and pure in form. Yellow peach, raspberry, strawberry, with a wonderful mid-palate creaminess. Set under the ripe fruit, the looser knit Kirchenstück minerals express themselves as spiced clove and tobacco. Great length, with an invigorating acidity.

2004 Riesling Spätlese Dry - Hochheimer Stielweg “Old Vines” - Picked at 96 Öchsle, this Dry Spätlese was very young and not yielding much aromatically when tasted. It is very fine and bright in character. Close-fitting lemon and white peach provide a wonderful tension. The minerality is fine and granular, true to the sandier soil this wine hails from.

2004 Franz Künstler Hochheim / Rheingau

Gunter Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstück



Wegeler, with the departure of cellarmaster Oliver Haag, has found a new cellarmaster in the form of Michael Burgdorf. Burgdorf was recruited from Heyl zu Herrensheim (Rheinhessen) and spent time working with Oliver Haag during the 2004 harvest before Oliver headed off to Fritz Haag. Wegeler is one of the estates we are adding to our Dry Riesling campaign. We will focus on the Geheimrat J Spätlese Dry, which is a cuvee of Rüdesheim, Winkel, and Geisenheim vineyards, yielding a Riesling which has great richness and length. Look for the 2003 “J” to arrive in our warehouse in June of 2005. Yield in the Rheingau for 2004 was 68 hl/ha and must weights ranged from 88 to 182 Öchsle. A special event at Wegeler in 2004 was the first Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Eiswein selected since 1911. The highest must weight of the vintage was a BA selected in the Geisenheimer Rothenberg, picked at 182 Öchsle. Botrytis in the noble sweet selections was very dry and healthy.


2004 Estate Riesling Medium-Dry - A wiry QbA compared to previous vintages. Bright, crisp, spicy-sweet peach. Walks the mineral and acid tightrope, with a tense structure.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Estate - Single vineyard Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg, but labeled as Wegeler Kabinett for the American market. Vivid nose, with fine mineral notes. On the palate it shows classic profiles of the stony Schlossberg vineyard, with gooseberry, raspberry and citrus blossom.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland - Orange citrus notes, with grapefruit and apple fruits in the aromas. Ripe white peach jets onto the palate, with hints of tropical fruit. Round and rich on the palate, with 30 - 40% botrytis one also finds saffron and brighter honey notes.

Auslese and beyond

2004 Riesling Auslese - Geisenheimer Rothenberg Auslese - Surprisingly bright acidity when compared to the Rottland Spätlese. Very compact at the time of tasting; raspberry, cassis, yellow peach, very elegant and refined. Needs some time to unravel.

2004 Riesling Eiswein - Geisenheimer Rothenberg - The first Eiswein selected from this vineyard since 1911. Eiswein intensity on the palate with pineapple, yellow peach and grapefruit. Dusty minerals float in the background of this sleek Eiswein, while 9.5 gm/l acidity keeps the 250 RS in check.

2004 Wegeler Oestrich / Rheingau

Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Thomas Drieseberg



What’s been happening during the past 24 months at von Buhl is nothing short of a retooling of the entire estate. No longer is one person responsible for the cellar and outside work – under Stefan Weber’s direction von Buhl has been rejuvenated by a crew of legendary Pfalz vintners. In many ways this is the same crew that pushed Müller-Catoir into the elite echelon of German estates. Two have signed on from Catoir. The first is none other than wine making legend Hans-Günther Schwarz acting as a year-round “estate consultant,” and the second major addition is ex M-C vineyard manager Mr. Sebastian. Together with cellar master Herr Meitzler, their experience is reshaping von Buhl into a superpower Pfalz estate. Previously vineyard management and cellar work were in the hands of one person; today those responsibilities are split between four individuals. Improved communication between the outside and inside has proved to be a powerful combination which is clearly reflected in the improving quality of the wines. 2004 clearly demonstrates the commitment and experience of this new team. The QbA and Kabinett wines are first-class examples of each category. The ’04 Armand Kabinett will make many Spätlesen run and hide, and it’s quite possibly the best Kabinett in our book in 2004. There’s also excellent Spätlese and Auslese to be had at von Buhl in ’04, with a captivating Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Scheurebe Auslese that should not be missed. Von Buhl has also embraced the Stelvin movement. We will have the Maria Schneider “Jazz” QbA, the Armand Kabinett, and the von Buhl Spätlese Dry all under Stelvin in 2004.

Grosses Gewächs

2004 Riesling Grosses Gewächs - Forster Pechstein - A top example of dry German Riesling. The aromatics are a bit muted at the time of tasting, but white peach, stone and citrus notes are present. The wine has impressive weight and power, so richly textured. Tremendous concentration, juicy yellow peach bursts onto your palate. Very good length and balance, with a wonderful, persistent volcanic minerality throughout.


2004 Riesling Medium Dry - Maria Schneider Jazz - Finished with a Stelvin closure, this Riesling is selected from sandstone soils and almost 100% Deidesheim fruit. Granny smith apple, pear, fine dusty finish, bright and crisp.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Armand - Finished with a Stelvin closure, a cuvee of Deidesheim and Forst properties. Incredibly bright aromatics, vivid displays of fresh pear and white peach. On the palate the wine has excellent balance, packed with a piquant minerality. One of the best Kabinetts in our 2004 offering.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Forster Jesuitengarten - This wine maintains the incredibly vivid structure found at von Buhl in ’04. Yellow peach, creamy textures. The palate is an assortment of untamed strawberry and orange, along with a hint of blueberry, all floating behind dominate yellow peach fruit. Vibrant acid structure, and great mineral extraction.

Auslese

2004 Scheurebe Auslese - Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad - A knockout. Floral rose aromas, lychee fruit, ruby red grapefruit, and quince. On the palate there’s an intriguing orange, tangerine, and a trace note of cashew. Beautiful structure, silky, with great length.

2004 Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheim / Pfalz

Christoph Graf (Export Manager) Forster Kirchenstück



2004 is a dynamite vintage for Jan Eymael and his mother Doris – and it couldn’t happen to a nicer family. During a two week period, we tasted the 2004 wines twice in February of ‘05. After these repeated tastings, we are confident in saying Pfeffingen is a “best of” estate in 2004. Their Riesling and Scheurebe wines are the focal point of the vintage, the Rieslings being particularly good. Positioned at the northern tip of the Pfalz, Pfeffingen escaped much of the rain that fell in the middle and southern Pfalz in 2004. Jan Eymael commented that nobody at Pfeffingen could remember such a quick development of fruit as in 2004; the flavors were uncommonly concentrated and intense. Rebholz, located in the south Pfalz, also said “...up in Bad Dürkheim, conditions were optimum.” Jan feels the vintage is comparable to 2001 and Pfeffingen’s excellent ’85 vintage. This is one of the only estates that did not have to wait for botrytis, and it shows itself beginning in the Auslese wines. The BA and TBA selections have 100% botrytis – but it is pure and healthy in form, accenting rather than dominating the selections.

Easily the finest vintage we’ve ever tasted at the estate, and with the wines offering such value, it is easy to nominate Pfeffingen as a star in 2004. The entire collection, including the BA and TBA, amazed us. The Eymael family has selected, in our opinion, some of the most layered, concentrated, and filigreed wines of the vintage. Don’t miss this very special collection. Stelvin closures for all the wines through Spätlese.

2004 Pfeffingen Bad Dürkheim / Pfalz

Ungsteiner Herrenberg & Weilberg Soils Jan Eymael


2004 Riesling Dry - Estate - Intense citrus and mineral in the nose. Very reductive, white peach with a firm acidity and a peppered minerality providing tension on the palate. Non-chaptalized Spätlese fruit.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett Medium Dry - Pfeffo - Bright display of white tree fruit in the nose. Surprisingly rich, the ripe citrus core mixes with succulent peach. Intense spicy mineral on the finish, excellent food companion.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Ungsteiner Herrenberg - Strong minerality, with intense lemon-lime and orange citrus notes. The wine has a striking form on the palate, it is simultaneously juicy, bright, filigreed, concentrated, and crystalline. Far and away the best Riesling Spätlese the estate has ever produced, and one of the top Spätlesen at RWS in 2004.

2004 Gewürztraminer Spätlese - Ungsteiner Nussriegel - Dominant floral Gewürz spice, earthy minerals and slightly nutty in the nose. Melon, grapefruit and spiced rose petal notes on the palate. Piquant mineral finish, very good length.

2004 Scheurebe Spätlese - Ungsteiner Herrenberg - Picked on 11/19, it has Scheurebe profiles, lychee fruit, and orange notes. Very sophisticated for Scheurebe, cassis and orange peel. Not as exotic as past vintages, a finer expression of the varietal, mouthwatering acidity.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Ungsteiner Herrenberg - A range of pear, white peach and apricot in the nose. 30% botrytis. Spicy, chewy sweet apricot, yellow peach, and strawberry. Picked at 110 Öchsle, the wine has a GKA profile, with honeyed flavors and textures. Fabulous balance of minerality, fruit intensity, with a nervous acidity.

Also selected at Pfeffingen in 2004: 2004 Scheurebe BA & TBA - Ungsteiner Herrenberg, plus a Riesling BA - Ungsteiner Herrenberg



Quiet, focused, precise, and passionate. These words describe Hanjörg Rebholz and his wines perfectly. He reminds us a lot of Franconian vintner Paul Fürst, and both men are revered highly by winemaking colleagues throughout Germany. Each has a self assured presence, and please don’t waste your breath telling them Germany can’t make dry wine. In fact, in Germany, Fürst and Rebholz are regarded as two of Germany’s greatest dry wine estates. They are masters within their respective regions, and it’s our duty to make sure their wines are available in the American market. Is there anyone in Germany who makes a better Gewürztraminer than Rebholz? Not that we’ve found. Although we had heard about them before, we only first tasted Rebholz’s Gewürztraminer last year, the 2003. It was nothing short of an epiphany - we truly feel this is THE benchmark in Germany. The primary factors seem to be vine age (Rebholz’s Gewürztraminer parcel was planted in 1968) and a very low yield. In Rebholz’s village of Siebeldingen (south Pfalz), there was an extremely cold spell in June. Most of the middle and northern Pfalz had already completed flowering at this time, but in the south Pfalz vegetation all but stopped. This cold spell resulted in approximately 10 - 20% lower must weights in the south. The harvest in Siebeldingen was divided into two sections, one part at the beginning of November at which time 25% of the fruit was picked, and then on November 19 the remaining 75% was selected. Selecting grapes for the Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs was an incredibly tedious process. Rebholz literally stopped at each vine, picking fruit form individual clusters, evaluating if fruit would be chosen for the Grosses Gewächs selection. The harvest brought 35% Riesling, 50% Pinot varietals, and 15% Gewürztraminer. Rebholz is president of the Pfalz VDP, and a principal of the Pfalz Grosses Gewächs movement.

Grosses Gewächs

2004 Riesling - Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs - For the first time Rebholz was not sure whether a Riesling Grosses Gewächs from the Sonnenschein was going to be offered. With the development of the very best selections of the Bundsandstein Spätlese Dry, small quantities of this Grosses Gewächs will be available. The wine has intense citrus aromas along with apple and white peach fruit, and a mammoth mineral structure.

2004 Pinot Blanc - Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs - Earthy minerals, aromas of ash and spiced melon. On the palate the wine has an oily texture with a dominant nutty melon and mineral spice.

2004 Riesling - Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs - Smokey minerals in the aromas. On the palate the fruit has more intensity than the Sonnenschein, with ripe yellow peach and a spicy mix of minerals and nutty almond notes. There’s a bit of herbal note, gooseberry and pear, the wine is very juicy and long.

Gewürztraminer

2004 Gewürztraminer Spätlese - The purity of Rebholz Gewürztraminer is so thrilling. Sweet and intense aromas of cinnamon and rose petals. On the palate, the wine is viscous, with raspberry, yellow peach, and a cinnamon-hued minerality. Juicy and silky, it is so pure, with a wonderfully spicy finish.

2004 Rebholz Siebeldingen / Pfalz

Harvest at Rebholz Hansjörg Rebholz



What appeared at first to be a lackluster summer, in the end, was one of the six warmest summers in the last 80 years at the Wirsching estate. Continuous, intermittent rains helped drive photosynthesis, and extracts eventually brought perfectly ripe fruit helped by lots of sunshine. The fall ended with a spectacular golden October. A very good vintage at Wirsching, with an average must weights of 93 Öchsle and a yield of 53 hl/ha. Continuous green harvest in summer all the way to the beginning of November brought concentrated fruit with good physiological ripeness. Harvest started quite late in mid-November and brought vibrant, bright summer wines such as the Rivaner and Silvaner. At the higher end of the single vineyard chain, one finds highly extracted examples as well as noble sweet examples such as the Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Riesling BA, Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Pinot Gris TBA, and a Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Eiswein picked at -8.5 degrees Celsius on December 16th. Dr. Wirsching feels the 2004 vintage can be compared to his 1971s and 2002s.

Silvaner

2004 Silvaner Dry - Estate - A new package here, with Wirsching using a clear Bordeaux bottle and a Stelvin cap. Classic Silvaner, light melon fruit in the nose, clean and bright. On the palate the wine has a round mouth feel, with melon and gooseberry flavors balanced by delicate mineral structure. 2004 Silvaner Spätlese “S” Dry - Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg - Fine display of intense Julius Echter Berg minerals. The aromatics only hint of what’s to come. While the wine has good richness, there is a tendency for the terroir to dominate the pear, leaner citrus, and red fruits.

Riesling

2004 Riesling Dry - Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Grosses Gewächs - Hard to believe, but this Riesling offers an even more intense display of minerality than the Silvaner “S.” Ripe white peach and raspberry fruit flash on the palate, all contained by a wonderful mineral framework, which morphs from ash, to white pepper, into salty flavors - mouthwatering.

Scheurebe

2004 Scheurebe Spätlese Dry - Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg - This Scheurebe shows real potential. Not as exotic as vintages past, but more refined. Primary aromas and flavors of grapefruit and raspberry are supported by a fine minerality. The fruit is pure, bright and polished.

2004 Riesling BA - Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg - We don’t often give much time to Franken BA, but this Riesling is a wonderful example. Noble aromas, its yellow fruits float in a gentle current of honey. On the palate, one finds concentrated pineapple, apricot, cassis, and a zingy acidity. Fairly viscous, but not in anyway clumsy — a clear form.

2004 Hans Wirsching Iphofen / Franken

Dr. Heinrich Wirsching Silvaner Vines in Iphofen



Fürst is another one of the estates we are using to lead the RWS dry wine charge. Known for producing some of Germany’s best Pinot Noirs, Fürst also specializes in Pinot Blanc and Riesling. Paul Fürst also continues to make the best example of Müller-Thurgau we are aware of. Yields at Fürst in 2004 were 57 hl/ha for white varietals and 47 hl/ha for reds. Harvest began in early October, selecting our favorite Müller-Thurgau and also the red Frühburgunder. The third week of October brought in good fruit, ripe Pinot Noir with must weights up to 101 Öchsle. Riesling was picked in the second week of November to assure better physiological ripeness, and must weights ranged from 90 to 102 Öchsle. Fürst commented that acids were quite high, but after fermentation were nicely integrated in the wines. Like so many wines from the ‘04 vintage, the whites have a filigreed and crystalline pure structure. New at Fürst in 2004 is the addition of a vineyard in the village of Klingenberg, the Schlossberg. The reputation of the Schlossberg goes back to the middle ages, and at one time the Schlossberg was regarded as the greatest vineyard in Franconia for top red wines.

Müller-Thurgau

2004 Müller-Thurgau Kabinett Dry (White Burgundy Bottle) - Who said Müller-Thurgau was a second-rate varietal? The layers in this wine are stunning examples of what Müller-Thurgau can be: fresh McIntosh Apples, lemony citrus, and green melon dominate with a floral note and dash of raspberry fruit in the background. It has an enticing, glossy texture in the mouth, while the juicy fruit and mineral mix and power through on the finish.

Pinot Blanc

2004 Pinot Blanc Spätlese - Volkacher Karthäuser - Melons and almonds in the nose. On the palate, succulent melon fruit dominates, with subtle hints of gooseberry and kiwi. Very bright character, with great length.

Riesling

2004 Riesling Spätlese Dry - Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg - Smoked white peach in the nose. On the palate the wine shows juicy white peach fruit, with hints of raspberry. Racy, bright, and elegant Riesling. Satisfying, persistent, mineral drive on the finish.

Pinot Noir

2003 Pinot Noir - Tradition - Roast aromas, with delicate cherry fruit in the nose. On the palate the wine exhibits darker cherry fruit, blueberries and cranberries. Nuances of chocolate float within the red fruit core, great balance with good length. It is finely tooled.

2004 Rudolf Fürst Bürgstadt / Franken

Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Paul Fürst



We began working with Schäfer-Fröhlich two years ago. We vividly remember that first tasting; it only took a “lowly” QbA to demonstrate this was a very special estate. The keen sense of balance in their wines resonated with us because we’ve seen it before in the wines of Fritz Haag and Karthäuserhof. With respect to acid and sugar, the balance is very much Fritz Haag-like. In 2005, Schäfer-Fröhlich was selected as the “Newcomer of the Year” by Gault Millau, joining Robert Weil and Karthäuserhof for the three top honors. It should also be noted that Schäfer-Fröhlich’s 2003 Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese equaled Nahe legend Dönhoff’s ‘03 Hermannshöhle Spätlese in the Wine Spectator AT LESS THAN 1/2 THE PRICE. Then came Feinschmecker (Germany’s leading wine and food magazine), who in February ’05 voted Schäfer-Fröhlich’s Grosses Gewächs the top dry wine in all of Germany. To say this estate has been on a roll would be an understatement of monumental proportions. In 2004, young Tim Fröhlich continues to impress, and a key factor in the quality of this vintage was a June hail storm which reduced the yield to a meager 40 hl/ha. Harvest lasted from 10/25 to 11/15. Tim says the later start date was purely to help with physiological ripeness. While the yield was not optimal from a “business” standpoint, the quality of the fruit expresses itself clearly in the wines. Even the Estate Riesling has a natural must weight of 92 Öchsle, a wine many others would bottle as a Spätlese. Tim feels the wild yeast this year contributes to the crisp primary grapefruit aromas found in many of the wines, and that the wild yeast gives a sleeker profile than if cultured yeast had been used. Must weights ranged from 80 – 100 Öchsle with an average must weight in the mid 90s. While the overall collection is excellent, the Estate Kabinett and Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese are the stars of the vintage for us.


2004 Riesling Medium-Dry - Estate - Bright, tense, citrus hued aromatics. On the palate the wine shows crisp Asian pear, apple and a piquant minerality on the finish.

Kabinett

2004 Estate Kabinett - Single vineyard Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling. Ripe citrus, grapefruit and pear aromas. On the palate, the wine has excellent focus. Spicy minerals, Granny Smith apple, juicy pear and a lemon lime citrus permeate the senses. The finish is dominated by a firm, but harmonious, steely acid structure.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Bockenauer Felseneck - Tremendous concentration, picked at a meager 25 hl/ha. White and yellow peach, with pin point mineral details in the nose. On the palate, the minerality shifts into a more defined spice, fusing with white peach, grapefruit and orange. It’s bright fruit and fine structure are mesmerizing.

Auslese and beyond

2004 Riesling Auslese - Bockenauer Felseneck - 100% botrytis, but very pure and healthy. The wine hints of honey, while revealing yellow peach, grapefruit, banana, orange, and sweet strawberry flavors on the palate. Silky and elegant, it finishes with a fine coco spice.

2004 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenau / Nahe

Bockenau Vineyards Tim Fröhlich



Throughout the summer and harvest season of 2004, we were given more positive briefings from Gunderloch than any other estate – with the exception maybe of von Buhl and Pfeffingen in the Pfalz. 2004 here could really be described as optimal. Sun when they needed it and precipitation when they need it – all in the right amounts. The ’04 Gunderloch collection reminds us quite a bit of 2002, but they have an added purity and seem more reductive. More focused than past Gunderloch vintages - a common thread in 2004 - displaying a vivid and crisp structure. There’s more white peach fruit in the Rothenberg as opposed to the usually, almost exclusively, yellow peach profiles. There was botrytis in Nackenheim, but here too less than usual up through Auslese. The Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese, which often exhibits a dominate botrytis profile, is more saffron and honey this year (25% botrytis). At the high end, Fritz has once again pulled off a GKA – TBA collection. The BA and TBA were picked in February after a tedious three month period during which any signs of wet / foul botrytis were removed. Finally, in February, a BA was selected at 220 Öchsle, and TBA at 284 Öchsle. We were unable to taste either the BA or TBA, but when we asked Fritz what he thought of the quality, he just smiled – something great is in those tanks.

A big change in the cellar is a state of the art filtration system. While Fritz is delighted by the filter’s performance; he requested we not speak about any specifics. As far as Fritz is aware, it is the only such filter in Germany. Fritz believes the primary benefit is minimal, if any, losses with respect to aroma as can be experienced with diatomaceous and other filtration systems. Gunderloch is bottling seven ‘04 wines with Stelvin.


2004 Riesling Dry - Estate - Aromas of red clay and white peach. On the palate, the wine is steely and stony with white peach and pear fruit. Lemon zest and minerals mingle on the finish. Good flavor intensity and a ripping acidity.

Kabinett

2004 Riesling Kabinett - Jean Baptiste - Focused white fruits and ashy mineral aromas. Juicy flavors of white and yellow peach, grapefruit and lime with an anise spiced, ashy, mineral underbelly.

Spätlese

2004 Riesling Spätlese - Nackenheimer Rothenberg - Lean and fit for a Gunderloch Spätlese, a classic profile. The wine offers a razor’s edge balance of fruit and terroir. Wonderful Rothenberg soil components, almond paste, slate, and white pepper. Elegant yellow peach fruit, very good density, a seamless delivery with zingy lemon and grapefruit acidity.

Auslese

2004 Riesling Auslese - Nackenheimer Rothenberg - Nose offers hints of saffron, the wine having approximately 25% botrytis. A rush of yellow peach, pineapple, honey, with nuances of apricot and fig as well. Anise spice, with deeply structured soil notes and a firm acidity. Succulent fruits tattoo themselves on your palate and the wonderful tension of fruit, acid and spicy mineral seems to last forever on the finish.

Also selected at Gunderloch, but not available to taste:

2004 Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling GKA, BA and TBA

2004 Gunderloch Nackenheim / Rheinhessen

Agnes & Fritz Hasselbach Riesling in the Rothenberg



In Germany’s deep south, the volcanic soils of Baden, and the village of Ihringen specifically, produced wines which were picked at about five Öchsle less (on average) than in 2003. Here in the south, temperatures in 2003 where too much of a good thing. We feel this is a positive circumstance, given that the 2004’s are lighter and more vibrant, but not just when compared to 2003. Even when put side by side with other vintages, they are more delicate. Average yield was 60 hl/ha, with a high fructose component in the wines. Much to our discontent, Joachim has decided to replace his Scheurebe vines with a Pinot varietal. 2004 will be the last vintage for Heger Scheurebe. Once again, we were lead through a plethora of varietals, including Muskateller, Pinot Gris, Blanc, and Noir, not to mention a variety Riesling selections. We continue to be partial to Joachim’s Weinhaus Heger Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, they offer exceptional quality and value for entry level examples of each varietal. The wines we enjoyed most at Dr. Heger in ‘04 were the Ihringer Winklerberg Pinot Blanc Spätlese Dry and the Muskateller Spätlese. Most Pinot selections were in Malolactic fermentation during our visit, which account for the vast majority of wines. We tasted and took notes, but will refrain from making our selections until we’ve tasted finished wines. We tasted several samples of Dr. Heger Pinot Blanc Spätlese Dry. There were flavors of ripe melons, kiwi, and gooseberries. Both the Dr. & Weinhaus Heger Pinot Blancs are bright and vibrant. The Dr. Heger and Weinhaus Heger Pinot Gris showed more yellow fruit, Mirabelle and ripe pears. One barrel of Pinot Gris was made from 80% botrytised fruit, and would be interesting to pair with refined Asian cuisine. The Muskateller Spätlese originates from 60 year old vines, and although in a rather embryonic stage, appears to have all the makings of a stellar wine, with dominate passion fruit notes, lychee, and other tropical nuances. The Rieslings were a perfumery, driven by yellow fruit aromas. Most of the Pinot Noirs were heavy in Malolactic, while the special Mimus Pinot Noir cuvee showed wonderful dark cherry and cassis fruits. At Weinhaus Heger in 2004, Joachim will be bottling the very popular Weinhaus Pinot Gris and ‘03 Pinot Noir with Stelvin. We expect to have these two Stelvin selections in our Napa warehouse by August of 2005.

RWS - Heger Selections

2004 Pinot Gris - Weinhaus Heger / Stelvin

2003 Pinot Noir - Weinhaus Heger / Stelvin

2004 Dr. Heger & Weinhaus Heger Ihringen / Baden

Ihringer Winklerberg Joachim Heger



Yield for the vintage was 61 hl/ha, and must weights ranged from 85 - 108 Öchsle. Werner Näkel likes the ‘04 vintage and feels it is comparable to ‘97, ‘99 and ‘01. The big news in 2004 was Meyer-Näkel’s acquisition of 25% of the State Domain Marienthal, which was dissolved. The split was between H.J. Brogsitter (primarily a Sekt producer) and the growers associations Mayschoss Altenahr and Dagernova (the Ahr’s largest). With half of the total property a new corporation, Kloster Marienthal GmbH was founded to maintain jobs for many of the employees of the former State Domain. Meyer-Näkel ended up with approximately two hectares of prime vineyard added to his holdings in the excellent Walporzheimer Kräuterberg and a new holding in the Neuenahrer Sonnenberg. Available for special events are the beautiful, historic buildings from the dissolved State Domaine.

Pinot Noir

2004 Pinot Noir - One of our favorite German Pinots, we love using it just to show people how good “basic” German Pinot can be. Bright and nicely textured. Loaded with ripe cherry fruit, and nuances of chocolate spice. A hint of mushroom lurking in the background. Medium bodied, with great mineral definition on the finish.

2004 Meyer-Näkel Pinot Noir “S” - We tasted three different barrels that will ultimately become the “S” blend. All were picked at 103 - 105 Öchsle. The wines are fine, rich, dense, concentrated Pinots. Dark cherry, blueberry and blackberry fruits, with a nuance of tobacco. Oak is judiciously used and compliments rather than dominates these Pinots.

2004 Meyer-Näkel Dernau / Ahr

Dernau Vineyards Werner Näkel





www.germanwine.net

Celebrating 27 Years of Importing Germany’s Finest Estate Wines

Phone: 800.596.9463 (WINE) Fax: 760.566.0533

Email: [email protected]

Rudi Wiest Selections Imported by Cellars International, Inc.

Documents

Cellars International, Inc. Rudi Wiest Selections66.63.136.147/vintages/2004.pdf2004 German Vintage Report - Page 2 Rudi Wiest Selections - 800.596.9463 (WINE) z 2004 German Vintage