CARE LABELING APPAREL QUALITY MANAGEMENT SEMESTER VII, B.F.Tech (Apparel Production) Unit no.5

Prepared by: Divya Satyan Associate Professor, NIFT, Chennai 26.6.2006

Contents 1. Need for care labels 2. Who needs to label and What needs labeling 3. Care Labeling requirements (general and FTC norms) 4. International Care labeling system-GINETEX 5. Washing Instructions: Five Elements (as per FTC) 6. FTC care symbol chart 7. Canadian Care Labeling system 8. Australian Care Labeling system 9. Japanese care labeling system 10. ISO Care Symbol Chart

Care Labeling Reference Manual Need for care labels- . Care labels indicate how to clean textile articles in the best possible way. Care symbols provide all the necessary information on washing, bleaching, ironing, dry cleaning and tumble drying. Without this information, the consumer will face trouble in deciding on the appropriate care treatment of the textile item because it does not depend on the main fabric solely. Indeed, all the components of the textile need be taken into account: other fibers, accessories, but also dying, finishing treatments and texture. Using care labels provides the consumer with care information he does not have to decide on. The consumer usually does not have the experience or technical knowledge to decide which care treatment is suitable. Care labeling is determined under the responsibility of the garment maker in common interest of textile manufacturers, drycleaners and of course consumers. Thus care symbols are recommendations on how to clean a textile article on which they are affixed; they should not be considered as a use guaranty neither as a quality mark. Symbols refer to maximum permissible treatments that a textile article can bear without irreversible damage. More severe treatments can always be applied. Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some consumers look for the convenience of dry-cleaning, others prefer the economy of washable garments. In fact, recent surveys show that consumers want washing instructions on their purchases Who needs to label and What needs labeling

The Care Labeling Rule requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to clothing and some piece goods. Thus, the following categories of people/organizations need to be aware of the use the care labels-

Manufacturers and importers of textile wearing apparel. Manufacturers and importers of piece goods sold to consumers for making

wearing apparel. Any person or organization that directs or controls the manufacturing or

importing of textile wearing apparel or piece goods for making wearing apparel.

Since there are innumerable number of articles coming under the piece goods and the wearing apparel category, hence as per the FTC (Federal Trade

Commission,USA)has further specified what articles come under the care labeling rules. These are

Textile apparel worn to cover or protect the body. o Exempt apparel: shoes, gloves and hats. o Excluded items:

Handkerchiefs, belts, suspenders and neckties because they do not cover or protect the body.

Non-woven garments made for one-time use because they do not require ordinary care.

Piece goods sold for making apparel at home. o Exempt piece goods:

Marked manufacturers' remnants up to 10 yards when the fiber content is not known and cannot easily be determined

Trim up to 5 inches wide.

Care labeling requirements (general and FTC norms)

The Rules state clearly the requirements and instructions to be followed by the manufacturers, importers for the labeling of the items. This include-

Providing complete instructions about regular care for the garment, or provide warnings if the garment cannot be cleaned without harm.

Ensuring that care labeling instructions, if followed, will cause no substantial harm to the product.

Warning consumers about certain procedures that they may assume to be consistent with the instructions on the label, but that would harm the product. For example, if a pair of pants is labeled for washing, consumers may assume they can iron them. If ironing would harm the pants, the label should read, "Do not iron."

Ensuring that care labels remain attached and legible throughout the useful life of the product.

Labels must be attached so they can be seen or easily found by consumers at the point of sale.

If labels can't be seen easily because of packaging, additional care information must appear on the outside of the package or on a hang tag attached to the product.

Labels must be attached permanently and securely and be legible during the useful life of the product.

A garment that consists of two or more parts and is always sold as a unit needs only one care label if the care instructions are the same for all the pieces. The label should be attached to the major piece of the suit. If the

suit pieces require different care instructions or are designed to be sold separately, like coordinates, then each item must have its own care label.

Labeling Piece Goods Manufacturers and importers must provide care information clearly and conspicuously on the end of each roll or bolt of fabric. The information should apply to the fabric on the roll or bolt, not to the items the consumer might add to the fabric, such as trim, lining or buttons.

Reasonable Basis All labeling must have a reasonable basis for the care instructions, including warnings. That means reliable evidence must be there to support the care instructions. For example, you cannot say "Dry-clean Only" unless you have proof that washing is harmful to the garment. What constitutes reliable evidence depends on several factors.

In some cases, experience and industry expertise can serve as a reasonable basis.

In other instances - for example, when a dye is used that is known to bleed or when beads that are known to be damaged often in drycleaning are used - test results showing that the garment can be cleaned as recommended without damage may be required.

When a garment contains several components, reliable evidence must be there to show that the garment as a whole will not be damaged when cleaned as directed. The updated Rule clarifies that results of tests on components of garments can serve as a reasonable basis as long as you have reliable evidence supporting the care instructions for the garment as a whole. For example, testing the components of a garment is not an adequate basis for a "wash" instruction if the color of one part bleeds onto another when the finished garment is washed. International Care labeling system-GINETEX

Internationally, many countries follow different care instructions and have different laws and rules governing the same. The International Association for Textile Care Labeling (GINETEX) had, therefore, developed a language-independent care labeling system in 1975.

With an aim to promote voluntary care labeling on international basis, the GINETEX care labeling system (or international care labeling system) mainly uses symbols to provide care instructions. ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of reference for the use of these symbols.

The system consists of five basic symbols and their full descriptions are shown in the following.

Note: A cross on any of them means that the treatment shall not be used and a bar under the symbols indicates milder treatment is needed (broken bar indicates a very mild treatment).

WASHING

Maximum temperature 95° C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal

Maximum temperature 95° C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced

Maximum temperature 70° C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal

Maximum temperature 60° C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal

Maximum temperature 60° C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced

Maximum temperature 50° C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced

Maximum temperature 40° C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal

Maximum temperature 40° C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced

Maximum temperature 40° C Mechanical action much reduced Rinsing normal Spinning normal Do not wring by hand

Maximum temperature 30° C Mechanical action much reduced Rinsing normal Spinning reduced

Hand wash Do not machine wash Maximum temperature of wash 40° C Handle with care

Do not wash. Be cautious when treating in wet stage

BLEACHING

Chlorine-based bleaching allowed Only cold and dilute solution

Do not use chlorine-based bleach

IRONING

Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 200° C

Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 150° C

Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 110° C Steam-Ironing may be risky

Do not iron Steaming and steam treatments are not allowed

Dry-cleaning

Dry-cleaning in all solvents normally used for dry-cleaning - this includes all solvents listed for the symbol P, plus trichloroethylene and 1, 1, 1-trichloroethane

Dry-cleaning in tetrachloroethylene, monofluorotrichloromethane and all solvents listed for the symbol F Normal cleansing procedures without restrictions

Dry-cleaning in the solvents listed in the previous paragraph Strict limitations on the addition of water and/or mechanical action and /or temperature during cleaning and/or drying No self-service cleaning allowed

Dry-cleaning in trifluorotrichloroethane, white spirit (distillation temperature between 150° C and 210° C, flash point 38° C to 6O° C) Normal cleansing procedures without restrictions

Dry-cleaning in the solvents listed in the previous paragraph Strict limitations on the addition of water and/or mechanical action and/ or temperature during cleaning and/or

drying No self-service cleaning allowed

Do not dry clean No stain removal with solvents

DRYING

Tumble dry possible Normal drying cycle

Tumble dry possible Drying at lower temperature setting

Do not tumble dry

Washing Instructions: Five Elements( as per FTC) One: Washing by hand or by machine The label must say whether the product should be washed by hand or machine. The label also must give a water temperature setting if regular use of hot water will harm the product.

Two: Bleaching If all commercially available bleaches can be used on a regular basis without harming the product, the label does not have to mention bleach.

If using chlorine bleach on a regular basis would harm the product, but using non-chlorine bleach on a regular basis would not, the label must say, "Only non-chlorine bleach, when needed."

If all commercially available bleaches would harm the product when used on a regular basis, the label must say "No bleach" or "Do not bleach."

Three: Drying The label must say whether the product should be dried by machine or some other method. Unless regular use of high temperature will harm the product when machine dried, it is not necessary to indicate a temperature setting.

Four: Ironing Ironing information must be given on a care label if ironing will be needed on a regular basis. If regular use of a hot iron will not harm a product, it is not necessary to indicate a temperature setting.

Five: Warnings (including dry cleaning) If the consumer reasonably could be expected to use a care procedure that would harm the product, the label must contain a warning like "Do not," "No," "Only," to warn against the harmful procedure. For example, if ironing will harm a garment, even if ironing is not regularly needed, the label should state, "Do not iron" if the customer can be expected to "touch up" the garment occasionally.

If a care procedure on one product could cause harm to another product being washed with it, a warning must be included. For example, if an item is not colorfast, the label must say, "Wash with like colors" or "Wash separately."

Warnings are not necessary for alternative procedures that could be harmful. For example, if the instructions state, "Dry flat," it's not necessary to state, "Do not tumble dry."

Drycleaning Instructions A simple "dryclean" instruction may be used under two conditions.

First, if all commercially available types of solvent can be used, the label doesn't have to mention any particular type of solvent. If one or more solvents would harm the product, however, a safe solvent must be mentioned. (For example, "Dryclean, petroleum solvent.")

Second, a simple "dryclean" may be used if the drycleaning process, as defined in the Rule, can be used on the garment with no modifications. If any part of the drycleaning process would harm the product, the "dryclean" instruction must include a warning to avoid or modify that part of the process. "Do not," "No," "Only," or other clear wording must be used. For example, if steam would damage a garment, the label should say, "Dryclean. No steam." In this situation, where a modification must be made to the normal drycleaning process, you may, say, "Professionally dryclean. No steam." But "Professionally dryclean" should not be used where there is no need to modify the normal drycleaning process, and it should only be used with the instructions for modifying the process. (E.g., "Professionally dryclean. No steam.") By itself, "Professionally dryclean" is not an adequate instruction.

Remember that "Dryclean Only" is a warning that the garment cannot be washed. For any warning on the label, you must have evidence that the process warned against will damage the garment. You may label garments "Dryclean Only," but only if you have evidence that washing will damage the garment.

The care symbols from the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) designated as ASTM Standard D5489-96c, Standard Guide for Care Symbols for Care Instructions on Textile Products, may be used in place of words, but the symbols must fulfill the requirements of the FTC Rule. These symbols are also very similar but not identical to the symbols designated as an international standard by the International Standards Organization (ISO) that are used in many European countries. Only the ASTM symbols have been approved for use in the United States.

Canadian system of care labeling

The system consists of five basic symbols which are illustrated in three traffic light colours, with green colour indicates no special precautions, a red colour indicates prohibition and orange colour suggests that precautions necessary. Words in English and French may be used, in addition to the symbols conveying special instructions not covered by one of the basic symbols. The five symbols must appear in the following order on the care labels: washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and dry-cleaning.

The following table shows the symbols described in CAN/CGSB-86.1-M91.

Washing Bleaching Drying Ironing Dry Cleaning

WASHING

Machine wash in hot water at a normal setting

Machine wash in warm water at a normal setting

Machine wash in warm water at a gentle setting (reduced agitation)

Machine wash in lukewarm water at a gentle setting (reduced agitation)

Machine wash in cool water at a gentle setting (reduced agitation)

Hand wash in cool water

Do not wash

CHLORINE BLEACHING

Do not use chlorine bleach

Use chlorine bleach with care

DRYING

Tumble dry at medium to high temperature

Tumble dry at low temperature

Drip dry

Dry flat

Hang to dry

IRONING

Iron at high setting

Iron at medium setting

Iron at low setting

Do not iron

DRY-CLEANING

Dry clean

Dry clean with caution

Do not dry clean

Australian Care Labeling system

Similar to the US care labeling system, the Australian system uses words with a few symbols to describe the care instructions. Based on Australian Standard 1957-1987, phrases and symbols used in laundering and dry-cleaning instructions fall into five categories: general and warnings, washing, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning.

GENERAL AND WARNINGS

REMOVE TRIMS Trims which may be adversely affected by cleaning process as

DESIGNED TO FADE

NON-COLOURFAST

instructed need to be removed.

GARMENT SIZED TO ALLOW SHRINKAGE

WASH BEFORE WEARING

For garment that is larger than marked size to allow for known shrinkage.

REMOVE FIXING CORDS

REMOVE WITH COARSE STIFF BRUSH WHILE STILL DAMP TO RESTORE PILE

For sheepskin 1 car seat covers.

For sheepskin products.

WASHING

FULLY WASHABLE

WASH SEPARATELY

No special precautions necessary.

USE BAR SOAP ONLY

USE PURE SOAP FLAKES OR BAR SOAP ONLY

USE A LITTLE PURE HOUSEHOLD ANTISEPTIC IF DESIRED

For sheepskin products.

DO NOT SOAK For products which might bleed colour when left we for a considerable of time.

DO NOT USE SOAP-WASH IN SYNTHETIC DETERGENT

For leather goods or fabric having special treatment.

DO NOT WASH This phrase is considered to be a stronger term than DRYCLEAN ONLY

DO NOT STARCH

DO NOT BOIL

DO NOT BLEACH

For leather goods or fabric having special treatment.

DO NOT HAND WRING No hand twisting is allowed. Instead, hand wringer or wringing

DO NOT SPIN machine can be used.

DO NOT SOAK FOR PROLONGED PERIODS

DO NOT USE BLEACH, DETERGENTS OR ENZYME WASHING PRODUCTS

For sheepskin products.

COLD WASH Use normal water supply temperature.

WARM WASH Use water of maximum temperature of 4O C

HOT WASH Use water of maximum temperature of 6O C

VERY HOT WASH Use water of maximum temperature of 85 C

BOIL Use water of maximum temperature of 1OO C

HAND WASH

HAND WASH DO NOT RUB

Hand wash with moderate squeezing or rubbing.

SHORT MACHINE WASH A shorter than normal process or reduced agitation.

GENTLE MACHINE WASH Low mechanical action - slow speed.

MACHINE WASH

COLD RINSE

WARM RINSE

COLD RINSE WELL

Normal washing process.

WARM RINSE WELL

NORMAL SPIN

REDUCED SPIN

GENTLE SPIN

NORMAL SPIN - FLEECE OUT

For products containing fibers which are subject to thermal shock.

Spin to be reduced in speed or shortened in cycle.

For sheepskin products.

DRYING

DRIP DRY

DRY AWAY FROM DIRECT HEAT

DRY IN SHADE

GENTLY PULL TO SHAPE

DRY FLAT

DRY FLAT IN SHADE

DRY WITHOUT DELAY

HANG BY CORNERS AND DRY IN SHADE

DO NOT LINE DRY

DO NOT TUMBLE DRY Do not hang damp from line.

MAY BE TUMBLE DRIED - COLD

MAY BE TUMBLE DRIED - WARM

MAY BE TUMBLE DRIED - HOT

IRONING

DO NOT IRON

DO NOT STEAM IRON

IRON WHEN DRY

IRON ON REVERSE SIDE

For fabrics containing chloro-fibres and PVA (polyvinyl alcohol).

IRON UNDER DAMP CLOTH

IRON UNDER DRY CLOTH

Generally recommended for:

COOL IRON Fabrics containing acrylic, elastomeric (polyurethane) or modacrylic fibres (12O C)

WARM IRON Fabrics containing acetate, polyamide (nylon), polyester fibres or wool (15O C)

MEDIUM HOT IRON Fabrics containing triacetate or rayon (18O C)

HOT IRON Cotton and linen (20O C)

DRY-CLEANING

DO NOT DRYCLEAN

DRYCLEAN - NO STEAM

DRYCLEANABLE -NO WATER IN SYSTEM

For products where steam or steam pressing could cause damage or shrinkage.

For sheepskin products.

DRYCLEAN ONLY

DRYCLEANABLE

DRYCLEANING RECOMMENDED

Where washing is inappropriate.

Where this cleaning process is considered preferable to washing, although the latter may be permissible.

May use any dry-cleaning agent.

Use percholoroethylene, white spirit or fluorocarbons.

Use percholoroethylene, white spirit or fluorocarbons with

strict limitations on either amount of water and mechanical action or drying temperature or both.

Use white spirit or trichlorotrifluorethane only

Use white spirit or trichlorotrifluorethane with strict limitations on either amount of water and mechanical action or drying temperature or both.

Do not dry-clean.

Japanese Care Labeling system

The Japanese care labelling system has symbols grouped in six categories: washing, possibility of chlorine-based bleaching, ironing, dry-cleaning, wringing and drying. Based on JIS L 0217 (1995), the following tables show the full description of the symbols.

WASHING (with water)

Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 95 C.

Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 60 C.

Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 40 C.

Machine washable at slow water current or gentle hand wash in maximum water temperature of 40 C.

Machine washable at slow water current or gentle hand wash in maximum water temperature of 30 C.

Should be washed gentle by hand (not machine washable).

Cannot be washed with water.

BLEACHING

Chlorine-based bleaching allowed.

Do not use chlorine-based bleach.

IRONING

Should be ironed at a temperature between 18 - 210 C.

Should be ironed at a temperature between 140 - 160 C

Should be ironed at a temperature between 80 - 120 C

Cannot be ironed.

May be ironed at 180 - 210 C if a cloth is placed between iron and garment.

DRY-CLEANING

Can be dry-cleaned. Use solvent of perchloro-ethylene or of petroleum-based matter.

Can be dry-cleaned. Use only a petroleum-based solvent.

Cannot be dry-cleaned.

WRINGING

Wring gently by hand or for a short time by centrifugal hydroextractor.

Cannot be wrung.

DRYING

Hang dry.

Hang dry in shade.

Lay flat to dry.

Lay flat to dry in shade.

ISO Care Symbol Chart

1 WASHING

2 BLEACHING 3 IRONING 4 DRY 5 DRYING

CLEANING A Max

temperature

Chlorine bleach may be

Hot 210C/410F Dry clean in any

Tumble dry

95C/203F used solvent medium heat (very hot) B Max

temperature

Do not use chlorine

Warm 160C/320F

Dry clean in any

Tumble dry low

95C/203F gentle

bleach solvent except heat

(very hot) trichloroethylene

C Max temperature

Cool 120C/248F

Use flurocarbon or

DO NOT

60C/140F petro solvent only

MACHINE DRY

(hot) D Max

temperature

DO NOT IRON DO NOT DRY

60C/140F gentle

CLEAN

(hot) E Max

temperature

Dry clean in any

50C/122F gentle

solvent except

(hot) trichloroethylene

Reduce cycle, moisture

and/or

heat F Max

temperature

Use flurocarbon or

40C/104F petro solvent

only (warm) Reduce cycle, moisture

and/or

heat G Max

temperature

40C/104F gentle

(warm) H Max

temperature

40C/104F very

Gentle (warm) I Max

temperature

30C/86F gentle

(cold) J HAND

WASH

K DO NOT WASH

References: Liz Claiborne Quality manual Gap Quality Manual Teonline.com www.FTC.gov