CARA Magazine Dec 2011 Jan 2012

caramagazine.com AUGUST 2011 | 1

December 2011/January 2012

Cara M

agazine Decem

ber 2011/January 20

12

IRISH COOKERY SCHOOLSWhere to stir it up

NORTHERN LIGHTSExplore the best of Belfast

ISLAND PARADISEBeach holidays off Cape Cod

WINTER SUNRediscover Gran Canaria

INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FRANKFURTWhere to shop, eat and stay

48 HOURS IN EAST LONDON

Writer Roddy D

oyle Irish cookery schools Belfast C

ape Cod G

ran Canaria Frankfurt East London A

erobatics Joseph O’C

onnor

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Stage presencepresenceWriter Roddy Doyle turns to the theatre

AIB Corporate Banking

AIB - Ireland’s leading Corporate Bank to Foreign Direct Investment

Diarmuid O’Neill Head of International Corporate Banking AIB Corporate Banking Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4

Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.o’[email protected] www.aibcorporate-fdi.com

AIB Corporate Banking is a registered business name of Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173

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We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting

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In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate Banking still believes in keeping it personal.

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Features24 Keeping it RealWriter Roddy Doyle talks to

Tony Clayton-Lea about why his adaptation ofGogol’s The Government Inspector is so topical

30 a CooK’s touRWhat’s on the menu at Ireland’scookery schools? Eoin Higgins finds out

40 noRtheRn staR Pól Ó Conghaile heads toBelfast, kids in tow, to enjoy the family-friendly city

50 shoRe leave Summer resident Laura George onthe islands off Cape Cod where the living is easy

58 Cool hunting in gRan CanaRiaKate O’Dowd visits Gran Canaria in searchof laidback cool

69 the BeginneR’s guide to aeRoBatiCsHigh flyer Rob Holland tells Emily Houricanwhat’s up in the world of aerobatics

79 aiRspaCe An extract from writer JosephO’Connor’s commemorative poem to celebrateAer Lingus’s 75th anniversary

Contents December/JanuaryNews06 ArrivAlsWe meet a host of

Aer Lingus travellers who havelanded in Dublin Airport’s T2 forthe first time

09 News DiAry The dates to makeplans for in December and January

10 News hotel From campervans to chateaux, the best placesto stay

12 News restAurANtCheck out the newest arrivals onthe culinary scene

14 News BusiNess The fivebest places to hold a meeting inParis; and Trish Long, VP of WaltDisney Studios Ireland, nominatesVenice as her favourite city to dobusiness in

16 News shoppiNg Gadgets toGo: Sive O’Brien has the latesteye-popping travel must-haves

18 News people My Travel Tips:savvy traveller Craig Doyle shareshis top tips

20 News people What’s inmy Suitcase? Travel writer JulianneMooney shows us what to packfor every terrain

22 News Books Shelf life: ClaireBrophy browses the latest titles

regulars72 48hours: iN eAst loNDoN

Amanda Cochrane hunts outthe hipster haunts in London’sEast End

75 AN iNsiDer’s guiDe toFrANkFurt IrishwomanElizabeth Walsh shows us aroundthe city

83 Aer liNgus iNFlightMovies,music, TV and more to while awayyour journey

104trip oF A liFetime Irishwildlife cinematographer SophieDarlington on the moment thattook her breath away

58

40

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50caramagazine.com AUGUST 2011 | 1

December 2011/January 2012

irishCookerysChoolsWhere to stir it up

NortherNlightsExplore thebestofBelfast

islANDpArADiseBeachholidaysoffCapeCod

wiNtersuNRediscoverGranCanaria

iNsiDer’sguiDetoFrANkFurtWhere toshop, eat and stay

48hoursiNeAstloNDoN COMPLIMENTARYCOPY

StagepresencepresenceWriter RoddyDoyleturns to the theatre Cover: Roddy Doyle

photographed byMatthew Thompson at theAbbey Theatre, Dublin. Martha’s Vineyard

Beach bliss onGran Canaria

Belfastexplorer

Backstage withRoddy Doyle

_0BCXJ_TH_DPS_440x290_Cara_Mag_IRE.indd 1 10/28/11 5:07 PM

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EDITORALEditor Frances PowerEditorial Consultant Laura GeorgeEditorial AssistantCassie DelaneyContributors Sive O’Brien, Claire Brophy,Amanda Cochrane

ARTArt DirectorClare Meredith

ADVERTISINGAccount DirectorClodagh Edwards,

01 271 9634, [email protected] O’Reilly, 01 271 9621,

[email protected] CopyContactDerek Skehan,

01 855 3855, [email protected]

ADMINISTRATIONHead of PR&Promotions LindaMcEvitt

01 271 9643, [email protected] Tina KoumarianosAccountsOlga Gordeychuk

BOARDOFDIRECTORSManaging Director & Publisher

Richard Power, [email protected] Robert PowerDirector Ann ReihillDirector Patrick Dillon-Malone

PRINTING Boylan Print GroupORIGINATION Typeform

Caramagazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus byImage Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire,Co Dublin, Ireland, 01 280 8415; advertising sales,01 271 9625; fax 01 280 8309; image.ie, [email protected] registration number 56663

© Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorialmaterial and opinions expressed inCaraMagazinedo not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingusor Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and ImagePublications Ltd do not accept responsibility for theadvertising content. Please note that unsolicitedmanuscripts or submissions will not be returned.All material is strictly copyright and all rights arereserved. Production in whole or part is prohibitedwithout prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

CaraMagazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

Image Publications Ltd is a member of the PressCouncil of Ireland and supports the Office ofthe Press Ombudsman. To contact the PressOmbudsman, visit pressombudsman.ieor presscouncil.ie

Image Publications Ltd –PUBLISHINGCOMPANYOF THE YEAR 2010

TOADVERTISE PLEASE CALLMARY RYANON01 271 9625 OR [email protected]

CONTRIBuTORS

“All of a sudden, we’re looking at Belfast2.0,” says Pól Ó Conghaile. An award-winning travel writer whose adventureshave taken him from West Cork to theWest Indies, Pól brought his family to theNorthern Irish capital for this issue’s storyon page 40. From the hustle and bustleof St George’s market to the children’sinteractive discovery centre at W5; fromoysters with pickled ginger and spicedsoy at Mourne Seafood to an originalDeLorean DMC-12 in the Ulster Folk &Transport Museum, the surprises kepton coming. “The city has almost totallytransformed itself since The Troubles,” hesays. “And with a Titanic Festival shapingup for the centenary of the Belfast-builtliner’s maiden voyage in April, 2012 couldbe its best year ever.” You can follow Pólas he travels at twitter.com/poloconghaile.

“I love doing what I do,” says photographer Anthony Woods(pictured here with his little girl Emily), who is often on the roadaround Ireland, documenting the country’s landscape, wildlife andpeople for a guide book or one of his many commissions. Anthonyis also a regular at Dublin Airport’s Terminal 2, where he snaps AerLingus passengers each issue for our “Arrivals” story, see page 6.For this issue, Anthony also headed north with Pól Ó Conghaile tocapture the best of Belfast, see page 40. “Visiting Belfast for the firsttime in about 20 years, I was taken by surprise. The vibrancy, thebuzz, made it seem like a totally different city. We had a blast.”

PhotographerMatthew Thompson works between London andDublin on editorial, advertising and personal commissions. His shootof Roddy Doyle (see “Keeping it Real”, page 24) took him right backto his school days in north Dublin in 1991. U2’s Achtung Baby andRoddy Doyle’s The Commitments had both just been released. “Itwas,” he remembers, “all the evidence that any Northside teenagerneeded to realise that by picking up a pen or guitar and beingtrue to yourself, you could somehow transcend the humdrum andpredictable (well, that was the theory). Not only was Roddy ourgeneration’s nominated humorist but he was also an unparalleledadvocate of lyrical swearing (pivotal at that age).” Fast forward 20years to the Abbey. “Walking through the dark backstage, I caughta glimpse through a chink in the props, a worn kitchen table, roughwooden stage set against a vast empty auditorium. The seeminglymundane becomes potentially extraordinary, intimate and public, nodistractions just substance. Very Roddy.”

6 | DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012

ArrivalsFirst TimersThere’s plenty to draw first-time visitors to Ireland as Caramagazine found out at Aer Lingus’s home terminal, T2,recently. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

Australians BONNIE ANDERSON,left, and OLIVIA MICHAJLOW, right,stepped off the plane from Scotland,ready for a week in Dublin, then it’s onto Amsterdam, Barcelona, London ...

“Ireland has some lovely places,”says MIA EBERHARY, right,“they’re magic.” She and PETERBLANKENSTEIN, left, have travelledfrom Munich to explore the Irishcountryside. Both made sure to packtheir rain jackets.

It’s a workingholiday for JOHANMOERKERKE,left, and JURGENSAUERBIER, right,from Holland who arevisiting the country tocomplete work on aship in Wexford.

What is LUKAS BURKANDT, right,most looking forward to seeing? TheGuinness Storehouse. He and KLARAKALINOWSKY, left, from Hamburg arestaying in Dublin for five days R & R.

MAR OLLÉ CAMATS,left, and NACI CANYELLES, right,

from Barcelona are in Ireland tosightsee. They were advised by

friends to visit Dublin’s attractionsand Galway’s pubs.

ESTHER HUMMEL from Germanyplans to work for four months as a

volunteer on an organic farm. “Roadtrip!!” saysRACHEL ROBINSON,right, when asked whatbrings her and roommatesCAYLEN GIBSON, left,and HOLLY CLARK,centre, to Dublin. Theyplan to travel around thesouth coast, staying inB&Bs, visiting pubs andsampling Irish culture.

Judging by their t-shirts,Londoners (and sisters)CHARLY, left, and ELEANORODUNSI, right, have madeup their minds about Dublinalready!

WO

RD

SB

YC

ASS

IED

ELA

NE

Y

rst-time visitors to Ireland as Cara There’s plenty to draw fi Judging by their t-shirts,

Londoners (and sisters)CHARLYODUNSI

up their minds about Dublinalready!

from Holland who are visiting the country to

left, and

friends to visit Dublin’s attractions

ESTHER HUMMEL from Germany

What is LUKAS BURKANDT, right,

brings her and roommates

Extraordinary Christmas gifts fromthe four corners of the earth…

NOW OPEN, LEVEL 1, GRAFTON STREET.

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CARA MARVEL:CARA MARVEL 02/11/2011 07:35 Page 1

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December 2011/January 2012 | 9

What’s happening this winter

12Festival International de Ballons,Château-d’OexGet some fresh air at the FestivalInternational de Ballons with everythingfrom paragliding displays to parachutedrops to aerobatics. If you prefer to keep yourfeet on the ground, catch the inflation of specialshape balloons on January 22 – you might evencatch a glimpse of the famous flying blue rooster!Runs January 21-29, 2012, at Château-d’Oex,Switzerland; festivaldeballons.ch.

Aer LIngus FlIeS FROmduBlIn tO ZurIChdaIly.

24Big Maggie, Town hall, galwaymoney, sex and land – that old trio oftrouble-makers light up John B Keane’smost popular and caustic play, BigMaggie. directed by Garry Hynes, thedruid production goes on tour withaisling O’Sullivan in the title role, andKeith duffy and John Olohan headingup the cast. On tour nationwide, andJanuary 24-28 at the town Hall theatre,Galway; tickets, druid.ie.

December/January1The Marvel room, Brown Thomas,Dublinthe Christmas shop windows atBts are one of the festive stops fordublin kids – along with the criboutside the mansion House and thedeer in the Phoenix Park. the magiccontinues indoors this year at Bt,with gifts designed exclusively forthe store’s marvel Room from thelikes of Chanel, Paul Smith (check outthe doghouse) and more… and forchildren, the new lanvin collectionlaunches december 1. at Brownthomas, Grafton Street, dublin 2,01 605 6666; brownthomas.com.

87upWinter Wonderland, Dublineven if it doesn’t snow this year, it’llstill be a winter wonderland at theRoyal Hospital Kilmainham in dublinin december, what with an ice-rink,Fossett’s Circus, a market, Santaland and the terrifying big wheel.magic. Runs december 8 to January9; discoverireland.ie/festive.

25Christmas swim, niceIf the Christmas morning swim inSalthill or dublin’s Forty Foot is justa shade too arctic for you, join theswimmer’s at nice’s Bain de Noelinstead – you’ll find it positively balmyat 15°C. Promenade des anglais, nice.

Aer LIngus FlIeS FROm duBlIn tO nICe,mOn, Wed, FRI and Sun.

31new Year’s eve run, BerlinPack your running shoes and escapeto Berlin for new year’s eve whereclowns, prisoners and devils hit thestreets for anything from 2km to9.9km runs. Best part? the trophygoes to the best costume, notthe fleetest of foot. december 31,mommsenstadion, Berlin; berliner-silvesterlauf.de.

Aer LIngus FlIeS FROm duBlIn tO

BerLIn daIly.

neWs DIArY

10 | December 2011/January 2012

news hotel

o’Connors Campers, englandThis one is for the adventurers, free spirits and anyone who wants tostar in their own road movie. Forget about the hassle of hotels andbookings, just travel where you will, when you will in a restored VWCamper Van, dressed up with mod cons such as an iPod connector forthat all-important road-trip playlist. “The Barbarossa”, right, for example,is a 1965 original which has been spruced up with a shiny new paint joband luxurious leather interior and sleeps two – definitely the crème de lacrème of campers. Extra campbeds and awnings are available at no extracost. Weeklong rentals from £650. Collect campers from Okehampton,Devon, 0044 183 765 9599; oconnorscampers.co.uk.

aer lingus FliEs FrOmDuBlin, shannOn,COrk anD BElFasT TO londonheathrowDaily.

generator hostel, dublinmention interrailing to the average student and chances are it’s notthe trains they’ll come over all nostalgic about but the wonders of aGenerator hostel. With branches in london, Berlin, Copenhagen andhamburg, the name has become synonymous with backpack chic. now,the backpacker’s haven has landed in Dublin and is just as nifty as itsEuropean counterparts. located in smithfield, the hostel is walkingdistance from the city’s hippest night-time haunts. it also boasts a coolbar and terrace area, free Wi-Fi and a chill out lounge. mixed dorms from€15pps. smithfield square, Dublin 7; 01 901 0222; generatorhostels.com.

the standard, new Yorknothing standard about this design beauty.Floor-to-ceiling windows make the most ofthe view – on one side, lies manhattan’s ice-cool meatpacking District, and on the other,the serene hudson. Every room has a touchof luxury with plasma screen TVs, Wi-Fi,and those big, big windows. it’s no wonderthat of late The standard has been playinghost to rock royalty such as Florence andthemachine and Beyoncé. Great location,great views and the celebrity seal ofapproval? For us, it’s a no brainer. roomsfrom $385; 848Washington street; 001 212645 4646; standardhotels.com.

aer lingus FliEs FrOmDuBlin TOnewYorkDaily, anD FrOm shannOn TOnewYork, FOurTimEs aWEEk.

parkhotel kenmare, Co kerrYTerraced gardens, superb 19th century-stylecountry house rooms, 21st century service,a restaurant overlooking kenmare Bay, andan internationally garlanded spa – you couldsay with a hefty degree of certainty thatPark hotel kenmare has it all. The mollifyingcontinues over the winter/seasonal period,as the hotel ramps up its special offers andpackages. if your idea of escape from life’shustle and bustle constitutes combiningluxury with a generous if modest spiritand a human touch, then look no further.Packages from €475pps for two nights; newyear packages, which include a Gala BlackTie Banquet, from €795pps for two nights;shelbourne street, kenmare, Co kerry, 064664 1200; parkkenmare.com.

Upgrade your camera skills (and enjoy a break) with EYE photographic holidays on a five-day intermediate-level coursein the pretty old town of Pollença inMallorca. From £1,450pp, February 24-28, eyephotographicworkshops.com.

esCapeNew hotels, classic places to stay and one for the road.

01 Panasonic Lumix cameraThe Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ20 delivers perfect pictures with features including a long 16x zoom range and fast continuous shooting. And whenever you need to capture live action, it comes with the option of full HD recording.

02 Philips LED TVGreat colours, sharp picture quality and audio performance that excels where so many other brands fall short, the Philips LED TV brings you as close to the theatre experience as possible without buying a ticket. And it delivers all of this in a very appealing rounded design.

05 Apple Macbook AirGet the full-power of a laptop in the body of a netbook, with the new Apple MacBook Air. This is a superb-looking and performing machine in which Apple has once again managed to deliver more in less.

06 Dyson Hot fanNo fast-spinning blades, no visible heating elements and easy to clean. And it heats your room with Air MultiplierTM technology for long range heat projection. Check out the faster, futuristic way to heat your room evenly.

04Beats by Dr. Dre headphonesArtists and producers spend countless hours fine-tuning and mixing music to get it exactly how they want their fans to hear it. But the vast majority of headphones can’t accurately reproduce the intricacies produced in the studio. Simply put, BeatsTM by Dr. DreTM StudioTM High Definition Powered IsolationHeadphones can. With precision-engineered,advanced speaker design, powered amplification, and powered noise cancellation, you hear music the way today’s top artists and producers want you to hear.

03 Apple iPod TouchThe updates may be subtle, but the third-generation iPod Touch leaves competitors in its wake with new additions including voice control, graphics enhancements, improved accessibility, higher capacity and a faster processor.

Scan the QR CODE NOWfor an exclusive Cara reader offer. Enjoy 10% OFF at Arnotts new Technology Department for the month of December.Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Terms and conditions apply. Excludes Apple.

WE’LL HAVE IT.

WHATEVER’S NEXT?Since 1843, Arnotts have always been first with the latest in technology, home appliances and sound systems. And we’re still delivering the latest technology today in our new Technology and Home Appliances Department onthe Lower Ground floor.

Whatever’s next, we’ll have it,since 1843.

D3579_Arnotts timeline CARA ADVERTORIAL FINAL.indd 1 14/11/2011 17:10


Bills, londonAustralian Bill Granger’s arrival in the culinary world was lessthan conventional – he studied art not catering in college.Part-time work as a waiter fired a passion for the kitchen ratherthan the easel and, in 1993, at just 22 years of age, he openedhis first restaurant, bills, in Sydney. The mellow dining haunt,which offered a twist on Asian food, became a quick favouritewith locals and tourist alike. By 2005, Bill was the proprietorof five bills, including two in Japan. At last, after a career thathas included nine cookbooks and three TV series, the empirebuilder is to open his first restaurant this side of the globe. Therestaurant (which has yet to be named – but we’re thinking billsmight be in the running) will offer the samemenu as its Asiancounterparts – a modern spin on classic Asian food – and opensin December in London’s trendyWestbourne Grove. Book now.175Westbourne Grove, LondonW2; billgranger.co.uk

Aer lingus fLieS fromDuBLin, ShAnnon, Cork AnD BeLfAST TolondonHeAtHrowDAiLy.

skinflint, duBlinSkinflint is the newest addition to the unusual culinary family fatheredby Joemacken. its siblings, Jo’Burger and Crackbird are Dublin’s mosttalked about, or maybe that should be most tweeted about, haunts.Jo’Burger, a hip burger joint in rathmines (and the first place weexperienced the joy of sweet potato fries), was macken’s first offspring.Crackbird in the city centre, which specialises in all things chicken,followed.What’s so different there?Well, Crackbird bookings are madeby tweet only, and the first tweeter for each sitting gets a free meal.Skinflint, which serves up pizzas in the heart of Temple Bar, continuesthe #tweetseat tradition. And the food, by the way, is delicious andrecession-friendly. Get in on the action by [email protected] Crane Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2; skinflint.joburger.ie.

foodfileWhere social media might just get youa free meal, and the hottest places to book now.

news restAurAnt

Best lunchspot inDuBlin? The Silk Road Café at the Chester Beatty Library which serves up exotic Moroccan,

Afghan, Palestinian and Greek dishes (just try the baklava). Until February 26, add a side dish of culture with a

viewing of their exhibition of 19th century photographs, China Through the Lens of John Thomson; cbl.ie.

HeiMAt kücHe + BAr, HAMBurgheimAT küche + Bar is the most recent addition to theaward-winning 25hours hotel in hamburg. True to the chicdesign of the hotel, the new space is a vibrant mismatch oftextures, colours and prints. from the warm interior to therustic menu everything about this place screams good, heartyand wholesome. under the direction of chef frank Droste, therestaurant serves simple modern homemade dishes using thefinest ingredients; think roasted cod served with potato andcaramelised onions. And don’t leave without tasting the famousheimAT beef burger. uberseealles 5, hamburg, 00 49 40 25 77840; 25hours-hotel.com.

Aer lingus fLieS fromDuBLin ToHAMBurg, mon,WeD, fri AnD Sun.

le Bon cruBeen, duBlinLauded by The Dublinermagazineas the capital’s best casual diningspot, Le Bon Crubeen certainlyhas a reputation to uphold andbig shoes for any new head chefto fill. enter Sam Byrne who, overthe past decade, has workedunder the tutelage of ferran AdriàAcosta at el Bulli, been chef decuisine for Conrad Gallagher andmore recently, led the kitchenoperations for The Dining room atLa Stampa hotel. he’s even beencalled on by TV3 to assist withtheir reality show, Head Chef. nowhe’s heading up the pass at Le BonCrubeen and it seems there’s nobetter man for the role. expectfinest irish produce in the frenchmanner from Byrne’s new menu.81 Talbot Street, Dublin 1, 01 7040126; leboncrubeen.ie.

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NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL

My favourite cityfor business …

I spend lots of time in Londonbecause our European HQis there. I have also workeda lot in NYC and in manyEuropean cities but, givenhow much of an Italophile Iam, I have to choose an Italiancity. Much as I love Rome, itjust has to be Venice.Best spot for meetings… Our business involvesfilm events, festivals,premieres, etc, so ourmeetings usually takeplace where our directors/actors are staying. Theseinclude Cipriani (absolutelygorgeous but incrediblyexpensive, hotelcipriani.com); Danieli (in the city andluxurious, danielihotelvenice.com) and Excelsior (onthe Lido, where the VeniceFilm Festival is located,hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com).

Best hotel … A well-located and cost-

effective option isHotel Monaco

(hotelmonaco.it).Best place for businesslunches … One of myfavourite restaurants,frequented by gondoliersat lunch time so you knowthe food is good, is VinoVino. Very reasonable,great seafood and lovelychicchetti (Italian tapas).Best place for businessdrinks … “Le Conchiglie”Bar at the San ClementePalace Hotel, where youcan drink outside (weatherpermitting), the BucintoroHotel near St Mark’s Squareor La Zucca for Italian wines.Doing business in Venicefor the first time … Take theadvice of Henry James andapproach it for the first timeby sea. While private watertaxis from the airport can beexpensive, it is possible toshare them (ACTV) or usethe Alilaguna Water Bus(costs about €15) which stopsat many of the hotels.Getting around … Walk asmuch as possible, and, when

you can’t, use the vaporetti(water buses). A cheap wayto experience a short ride ina gondola is to use a canal-crossing gondola called“traghetti” which you canhop on or off for a few euro.For a full gondola ride, pre-book with localvenicetours.com (approx €40 per person).Budget business travel tip …If spending more than twodays in a new city, I always tryto acquaint myself with thepublic transport system. It’s socheap, easy to use and saveslots of time stuck in traffic.Always … allow much moretime (at least 30 minutesextra) to get to meetingsthan you thinkyou’ll need.

Going abroad on business? Lisa Hughes has advice to help you arrive sharp and focussed.SmartTRAVELLER

1LE BAR DU PLAZA ATHÉNÉEATHÔTEL PLAZA ATHÉNÉE Asophisticated place to have a chilled

meeting – and to discover the mostcreative cocktails in Paris. (25 avenueMontaigne; 0033 153 676 665;plaza-athenee-paris.com)

2LOUIS2 AT THE HÔTELTRÉMOILLE A lively restaurant atlunchtime but a quiet meeting spot

in the afternoon, Louis2 is a stone’s throwfrom both the Champs-Elysées and theAvenue Montaigne and has all the glamourof the 1930s. (14 rue de la Trémoille; 0033156 521 400; tremoille.com)

3ESPACE DALÍ, MONTMARTREIf formal meeting rooms are notyour thing, try the theatrical

Espace Dalí to inject a taste of art andculture into your business day. (11 ruePoulbot; 0033 142 644 010; daliparis.com)

4CASTILLE For an Italian experiencein Paris, look no further thanCastille in the 1st Arrondissement.

Take your pick from the impressiveL’Assaggio fine dining restaurant or, forsomething lighter, try the Salon de Théand spice up your meeting with one ofthe many world teas on offer. (33-37 rueCambon; 0033 144 584 458; castille.com)

5HOTEL DU PANTHEON Locatedopposite the famous Pantheon,this hotel, below, is within walking

distance of the Left Bank and the homelylobby and bar offer relaxed spots tohold a meeting. Free Wi-Fi available.(19 place du Pantheon; 0033 143 543 295;hoteldupantheon.com)

5BEST SPOTS IN PARISFOR BUSINESS MEETINGS

23%of business travellers admitto falling asleep in meetingsafter travelling.

Pack healthy snacks, such as an apple,dried fruit or (unsalted) cashew nuts,and snack regularly to keep your bloodsugar levels steady.

A passenger can lose up to 1.5 litres ofwater during a three-hour flight so fight

dehydration by drinking lots of water andavoiding carbonated, caffeinated andalcoholic drinks.

Practise the art of the power nap –45-minute naps will do more for youthan guzzling coffee.

LITTLEBLACKBOOK:VENICE

TRISHLONGAs vice president and general managerof Walt Disney Studios, Ireland, Trishtravels regularly on business.

1meeting – and to discover the most creative cocktails in Paris. (25 avenue Montaigne; 0033 153 676 665; plaza-athenee-paris.com

2 in the afternoon, Louis

from both the Champs-Elysées and the Avenue Montaigne and has all the glamour

of the 1930s. (14 rue de la Trémoille; 0033156 521 400;

3

FOR BUSINESS MEETINGS

frequented by gondoliers at lunch time so you know

THE FIRST RULE OF SUCCESSSURROUND YOURSELF WITH THE BEST

driven by excellence

DUBLIN LONDON NEWYORK PALOALTO

The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Robert O’Shea, Partner and Head of our International Business Group, focuses on advising international companies doing business in and through Ireland.

Matheson Ormsby Prentice. Lawyers of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland.

Contact Robert at [email protected], or your usual contact at Matheson Ormsby Prentice.

www.mop.ie

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

Robert O’Shea, Partner and Head of International Business Group

Lighten up your travels with a cheerypop of colour. By SiveO’Brien.

GADGETSTOGO

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STRAP


The broadcaster and travel addict takestime out with SiveO’Brien.

I LOVE TO TRAVEL ...The best trip ever was ahorseback safari throughthe Okavango Delta inBotswana. I gallopedthrough the bush with agiraffe herd, it wasexhilarating. But, at night, Ihad to take a shotgun tothe toilet for fear of beingattacked by a wild beast.THE MOST SPECIAL

PLACE IN THEWORLDIS ... Patagonia – it’s a placeof utter beauty and peace:vast grassy plains, hugeangry-looking mountains,creaking glaciers andhypnotic glacial lakeslittered with pristineicebergs. It is one of thefew places in the world youfeel completely at peace.FAMILY HOLIDAYS

ARE ... very different fromwhen I travel for work!Four kids hinder howadventurous you can be,although sometimes

dealing with angry lionswould be easier thandealing with kids on aflight. Usually we go toFrance with a big

bunch of friends – FotaIsland is a great Irish

family holiday too, justbring wet suits and itdoesn’t matter what theweather brings.THE MOST DRAMATIC

THING TO HAPPENME ... was getting hunteddown and attacked by alioness whose cubs hadjust been killed, on LakeKariba, Zimbabwe. We satlow to the ground, kepteye contact and hoped shewould back down. Aftercircling us a few times she

let out an incredible roarand walked away – it tooka while before I had anyfeeling in my legs again.THEMOST

UNEXPECTEDENCOUNTERWASWITH ... Cameron Diaz ata campsite in a remote partof Belize, Central America.I met her in a rum shack, Ididn’t even recognise her atfirst and we ended up goingkayaking the next day.YOUREALISEWHAT

POVERTY ISWHEN ...you’re in India or in favelasin South America. To seeso many beautiful childrenwearing rags, sleeping on thestreets trying to survive, isheartbreaking.WHENYOUR TEAM

ARE PLAYING ... it’s hardbut you have to try toremain unbiased. WhenWales beat Ireland in theRugby World Cup in NewZealand, I was trulyheartbroken but had tobe upbeat about theWelsh performance andcongratulate the players.ONE OF LIFE’S

MUST-SEE SPORTINGEVENTS IS THE ... Isle ofMan TT race, which I workat every year. It’s incrediblydangerous and that tendsto overshadow just howskilful you need to be toride in it. The top riders areincredible athletes.I MEET A LOT OF

FAMOUS PEOPLE ... butI only really get star struckby the sporting legends.Interviewing Tiger Woodsbefore his fall from gracewas amazing – he has anincredible aura about him.

He’s a man with many hats – having started his broadcasting life as apresenter on BBC radio, Craig Doyle’s career has taken him from radio toTV, from the UK to Ireland, with plenty of globe-trotting in between. Histelevision work confirmed him as a firm favourite on BBC for many years,including the dream job of reviewing far-flung places for The Holiday Show.More recently he landed the job of rugby anchor for ITV Sport, coveringthe Rugby World Cup in New Zealand as well as motor racing, tennis andgolf. On home ground, he’s RTÉ’s golden boy. His latest role is presentingRTÉ 2’sThe Social, a new chat-show with a social media twist. When he’snot in front of the camera, he’s at home in Wicklow with his wife and fourchildren and loves nothing more than the good life. Plans involve adding apig and a goat to the household!

3DOYLE-INSPIREDTRIPSTOTRY

1Live like a royal in France Whodoesn’t dream of holidaying in achateau? If it’s luxury you crave,

try Chateau Bouffereille, left, in theLot-et-Garonne. Historic enough tobe stunning, modern enough to haveall the comforts; a rustic dream of aproperty, with contemporary must-haves like Wi-Fi and a games room.Sleeps twelve, from €2,500 per week;classic-french-chateaux.co.uk.

2Horseriding in PatagoniaExplore the vast open plains ofPatagonia on horseback on a

ten day expedition from Chile Nativo.The tour covers every type of terrain,from forest to farmland, leading ridersthrough every crevice of the region’sfamed landscape. Accommodation canbe anywhere from a rustic restoredfarmhouse to a hotel. From $2,850pp;chilenativo.cl.

3Fota Island, Cork Pack up thekids á la Craig Doyle and head toFota Island Resort (and enjoy the

wildlife park nearby) for a few nights ofdowntime with the family. Make sure totreat yourself to a relaxation day witha seaweed massage and hydrotherapybath. Spa packages with two nightsB&B, dinner and treatment from€209pp, or choose self-catering inone of the lodges; fotaisland.ie.

NEWS PEOPLE

Craig Doyle The broadcaster and travel addict takes

although sometimes dealing with angry lions

would be easier than

bunch of friends – Fota Island is a great Irish

family holiday too, just

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WHAT’S IN MY SUITCASE

Julianne MooneyJulianne has a serious case of wanderlust. She hasspent much of the last two years scouring the emeraldisle, touring the coast and unearthing the best hotspots and hidden gems Ireland has to offer – all forthe very first edition of Time Out Ireland. And, whenshe’s not globe-trotting, she’s dashing off a quickentry on her travel blog, working for Fáilte Ireland,on air with her Ireland AM travel slot (the last onewas on glamping) or organising the Dublin BookFestival. Any free time is spent, with her boyfriendin Dublin or baking up a storm in the kitchen, apasttime she is passionate about and happy toresearch wherever she roams. Next up? A trip toVancouver and the Rockies. Wish we were there;juliannemooney.com. Sive O’Brien

WHAT’S N SUITCASE

Julianne Mooney Julianne has a serious case of wanderlust. She has

spent much of the last two years scouring the emerald isle, touring the coast and unearthing the best hot er – all for spots and hidden gems Ireland has to off

rst edition of the very fi a quick she’s not globe-trotting, she’s dashing off

entry on her travel blog, working for Fáilte Ireland, on air with her Ireland AM travel slot (the last one was on glamping) or organising the Dublin Book Festival. Any free time is spent, with her boyfriend

in Dublin or baking up a storm in the kitchen, a pasttime she is passionate about and happy to

research wherever she roams. Next up? A trip to Vancouver and the Rockies. Wish we were there;

juliannemooney.com

NEWS PEOPLE

1 DUFFLE COAT €122 at Topshop, 6-7 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 2 MASCARAMax Factor, €14.99 atpharmacies nationwide 3 KNITTED HAT €23.50 at Accessorize 4 LEATHER GLOVES €20 at Marks &Spencer nationwide 5 KNITTED SWEATER €140 at Reiss, 1 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 6 SKINNY JEANSHello!, €129 at The White Door, 14 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 7 BODYMOISTURISER Voya, €26 at Houseof Fraser 8 HOTWATER BOTTLE COVER €17 at Topshop, as before 9 LIP GLOSS €17 at MAC at BrownThomas; Dublin Airport 10 PERFUME 30ml by Agent Provocateur, €44 at Debenhams 11 WALKING SHOESSalomon, €64.90 at outwoodsports.co.uk 12 CAMERA Nikon CoolpixL120, €280 at Conns Cameras,54 Clarendon Street, Dublin 2 13 IRELAND GUIDEBOOK Time Out, €13.99 at Dubray Books nationwide14WELLINGTONS €4 at Penneys nationwide.

1Southbank Centre, London Justthe place to find that stockingfiller – London’s Southbank centre

comes over all festive with fairylights,wooden chalets offering wooden toys,handcrafted jewellery and homemadesoaps. Warm up with a tipple ofGlühwein. November 18 to December24; xmas.markets.com.

2Christkindlmarkt, ViennaVienna is an old hand atChristmas markets (1294 marked

its debut festive show). Opt for theclassic (and biggest) Christkindlmarktat Rathausplatz, try some ice-skatingor bag yourself some roast chestnuts,candied fruits, gingerbread or punchor browse the historic Spittelbergquarter for traditional handicrafts.November 12 to December 24;vienna4u.at.

3The 12 Days of ChristmasMarket, Docklands, DublinFor a modern take on ye olde

market, try Dublin’s Docklandsmarket. Expect neon instead offairylights and pop-up shops insteadof chalets. December 1–18; ddda.ie.

4The Old Town, ZurichFor the real deal, Switzerlandis the place to visit. With a

host of markets all over the city,Zurich really is the homeland ofthe homemade. For a touch oftradition, try The Christmas Marketin the Old Town. December 8–24;christmasmarkets.com.

5Charlottenburg Castle Market,Berlin Whether it’s a cutemagical market you’re after, or

a lively urban one, put Berlin on yourlist. The entire city is transformed intoa shopping haven, with 60 marketsoccupying main squares, hiddenside streets and even museums. Forsomething extra special and slightlygothic, try the Charlottenburg CastleChristmas Market. November 22 toDecember 31; germany-christmas-market.org.uk.

5 BEST CHRISTMASMARKETS

Julianne at Portsalon

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Traces Remain:Essays andExplorations byCharles Nicholl(Allen Lane, HB,£20) out December 1.Comprising 30 pieces

written over two decades, thiscollection is already being hailed asthe very best work from a writerwho has been translated into 17languages. Witty and engaging,these tales draw you in. Whether itis intrigue in Renaissance Rome, orthe childhood of ChristopherMarlowe, or the grisly crimes of Jackthe Ripper, Nicholl’s unique blendof literary detective, biographer andtravel writer is not to be missed.

Flourishing byMaureen Gaffney(Penguin Ireland,€16.99) out now.Have we finally hadenough of bemoaningthe recession?

Perhaps. Psychologist MaureenGaffney’s book Flourishing certainlyshows us how to move on. Drawingfrom the philosophy of Aristotle and

its lessons on how to live the bestpossible life, Flourishing aims toteach us the value of living as bestwe can. It’s a thought-provokingbook, concerned with achievingexcellence, from which, she believes,happiness will follow. First, sheexamines how the brain works, thenlooks at practical ways to live well,by outlining how and why we mustlearn to focus our attention, regulateour moods, and take control of ourlives by making good choices thatenhance every aspect of our lives.Sounds so simple, doesn’t it?

TheManWhoRained by Ali Shaw(Atlantic Books, HB,£12.99) out January 1.Take two partsGrimm’s Fairy Tales,one partWuthering

Heights and throw in some SilentHill, and you’ll find somethingsimilar to Ali Shaw’s latest.Elegantly written, the novel followsthe story of Elsa, who escapes fromNew York to the isolated settlementof Thunderstown after the death ofher father in a tornado. Nature’s

SHELFLIFECooking, fiction and an intriguingly different self-help book catch Claire Brophy’s eye.

NEWS BOOKS

elemental presence becomesmanifest in the guise of FinnMunro, a man who has a storminside him – and the pair quicklyfind that their affinity causes abigger battle than they could haveimagined. A vivid and wonderfullyimaginative novel,The Man WhoRained is a mixture of old-fashionedfable and atmospheric magic.

Eleven MadisonPark: TheCookbook byDaniel Humm andWill Guidara(Little, Brown,

HB, £35) out December 1. If youcan’t find your way to ElevenMadison Park this winter, thesmoking-hot restaurant’s cookbookmust be the next best thing.Composed by executive chef DanielHumm and general manager WillGuidara, it features more than 125beautiful recipes with photographsto make your mouth water. Adaptedfor home cooking,The Cookbookmeans you can recreate theexperience of one of NY’s finesteateries in your own kitchen.

Who’s reading what …This month, we ask author and journalist Tony Clayton-Lea what’s on his mind.

What are you reading? “I tendto roam through modernliterature, I rarely go near the“classics” – shame on me – andI always seem to have a music-related book on the go. Myfavourite author of the past yearor so is Daniel Woodrell; he’sbest known for Winter’s Bone,but his previous books are evenbetter. His latest, a short storycollection, The Outlaw Album,is stunning in its simplicity andchill factor. Aside from books,

I’m a magazine fiend – the likes ofQ, Mojo, Empire and TheWorddrag me away from paperbacks!Newspaper? The Irish Times.”What’s on your playlist?“Too much! What I’ve enjoyedrecently has been a mixtureof new and old: the 20thanniversary edition of U2’sAchtung Baby is just fab, while2011 albums from the likes ofLisa Hannigan, Land Lovers, RonSexsmith, Cashier No 9, GavinFriday and Coldplay hit the spot.”

Where do you go to hear livemusic? “Mostly in Ireland:Dublin’s O2, Vicar Street,Grand Canal theatre, Whelan’s;Dundalk’s Spirit Store – the bestsmall venue in Ireland.”What’s your favourite placeon earth? “Mostly, it’s where Ilive, but I’m lucky enough to getto travel several times a year.I adore Paris, Barcelona, NewYork City, but I’d love to visitPrague and somewhere warmand exotic like the Maldives,

Seychelles or Mauritius. We livein hope!”

Tony Clayton-Lea’s 101 Irish RecordsYou Must Hear Before You Die(Liberties Press, €17.99) is out now.

Kudos to Cork-born photographer David Creedon, whose evocative shots of Irish homes abandoned to emigration lit up

the pages of Ghosts of the Faithful Departed (Collins, €24.99). Now his work figures at the National Portrait Gallery in

London, where it is included in the Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize exhibition that runs to February 12, 2012.

Seychelles or Mauritius. We live

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IntervIew


Writer Roddy Doyle shuns the trappings of celebrity – his creations remainrooted in the working-class experience. As his adaptation of Gogol’sThe Government Inspector is staged at the Abbey Theatre, he tellsTony Clayton-Lea why the 19th-century satirical comedy is so topical.

Photographs byMatthew Thompson.

Roddy Doyle is having noneof this celebrity lark; hekeeps himself to himself,his business is his and hisalone, and if you’re asking

him for the name of his favouriterestaurant you’d swear you can hearhim chuckling at the absurdity ofthe question.

Doyle seems the type of person(and he’s certainly the kind of writer)who deals in the real world: he’smarried to a woman called Belinda,he has two sons (Rory and Jack),he works from home, he supports

Chelsea FC, he loves all mannerof music, and he writes most dayswithin a disciplined, structuredframework of time and projects.

Twice Booker Prize nominated(1991,The Van; 1993, Paddy ClarkeHa Ha Ha, which won the prize),Doyle has long since shed thecelebrity skin that clung to himso ill fittingly. He lives in a northDublin suburb, the precise locationof which we neither know norwant to find out. That’s the way helikes it. That’s the way he wants it.Modest in demeanour, unassuming

in countenance, private in manner,Doyle is as real as it gets in a worldseemingly taken over by the notionof what’s cool, what sells, what gives.

“I had no idea my name wasgoing to be called out,” he saysof the night in 1993 that he wasawarded the Booker Prize. “Afterthat, for a while, I was makingdecisions that I’d never had to makebefore, like how public did I wantto be. Having conversations withmy wife that we never thought we’dhave ... But we made our rules early– about publicity, privacy – and

Keeping itreal


IntervIew


gradually we got back to normal, soto speak. There were demands onme, having won the Booker Prize,that I’d attend this and do that, butI really didn’t want those things.I hadn’t done them before, andI didn’t want to do them. Peoplewanted me to open this, launch that– I could see why, but I didn’t wantto be in that world. For example, Ilove going to the theatre, but I rarelygo to an opening night unless there’sa friend involved.”

How apt is the comment abouttheatre. We’re talking in Dublin’sAbbey Theatre, where, as you readthis, Doyle’s adaptation of NikolaiGogol’sThe Government Inspectoris packing them in. He says heoriginally read the play over 30years ago, but on re-reading it (inthe context of a suggestion by theAbbey Theatre’s literary director,Aideen Howard), he could seethe work as being very current. “Ithought it could quite easily be anIrish story; I’ve retained the Russiantime period and the setting, but theaccent and the language is Irish.”

Doyle’s treatment of a viciouslysatirical work about flagrant self-interest and bribery was given a firstdraft in 2010, when, as he says aboutIreland’s financial woes, “things hadwell and truly gone belly-up”. By thetime the second draft was started,he remarks, “the IMF rumours werestarting, and denied. I was workingon the first act of the second draftwhen the IMF came into town.So some of the events happeningwere easy to slot into the play itself,as well as some of the language –references to delegations arriving,and so on.”

Notwithstanding his seriouswork, Doyle has a justifiedreputation for being able to makepeople laugh. Was there anypressure on his part to make histreatment even funnier than theoriginal? “No, not really. Havingdecided to do it, I read about fourdifferent translations and one wasvery funny, but what was lacking inthe other versions was the language,which seemed a bit neutral. Whatyou always want with a play is thatit’s funnier than it is on paper –

the actors, the director, the extradimensions, will add to it ratherthan complicate things. I supposethe hope is that it’s funnier [thanthe original], but how do youmeasure funny?” We ponder oneof life’s mystifying questions fora few seconds, and then he says,“Certainly, not to do the play forlaughs would have been a majorcreative mistake …”

Doyle hasn’t made too many ofthose, it has to be said. Now in hisearly 50s, his back-story is reasonablywell known: he attended a ChristianBrothers school in Sutton, northCo Dublin; after college he startedworking as a teacher of Englishand Geography in GreendaleCommunity School, Kilbarrack,slap-bang in the city’s northside;he achieved major recognition (aswell as criticism) for his officialdebut novel,The Commitments, andfor his subsequent two novels,TheSnapper (1990) andThe Van (1991).In 1991, Alan Parker’s film ofTheCommitmentsmade Doyle even morefamous, which was added to by thesuccess of Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha(which remains one of the bestsellingBooker Prize-winning novels).

From then to now, Doyle has

applied his skills to delivering realistwork that is rooted in the working-class experience. In turn immenselyfunny and intensely dramatic, hiswriting rarely (if ever) rings untrue;his dialogue is naturally unfussyand all the more riveting for it.When did he realise that he wantedto write full time? “Full time didn’tenter into it … My job as a teacherwas what I was happy doing. Ifsomeone said to me that it was whatI’d be doing until I was 65, thengrand. I started in 1979 and I lovedthe job.”

Doyle says he wroteTheCommitments in 1986, the bulk ofit during the Easter school holidaysand the remainder of it during theschool summer break. After that, hestarted writing the play that wouldbecome known as Brownbread.With a broad smile, he says he felthe had loads of time to write, and ithad never occurred to him that, likemany other people, he was writingin the hope of escaping his job.

But leave teaching he eventuallydid, jumping from the clamour ofthe classes and the camaraderie ofthe staff room to what is, effectively,a self-imposed solitariness thatis occasionally interrupted by

Reworking aclassic – MarionO’Dwyer, Don

Wycherley and LizFitzgibbon in theAbbey Theatreproduction ofGogol’s TheGovernment

Inspector getsthe Roddy Doyle

treatment.

Photo

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IntervIew


returning school-going children,tuning in to football results on theradio, making a mug of coffee andputting a wash on.

“The solitary aspect is part of thejob – and I’m happy enough withmy own company. Depending onwhat I’m doing I’ll have music onin the background, but you realiseyou can’t do it when there areother people around – unless it’s aco-written project. No, I work athome. There are things I miss, likegoing for a pint on a Friday with mycolleagues, but I don’t have any!”

For a writer so busy with variousprojects (he is currently workingon a novel, a book for children andfinalising details on a musical ofTheCommitments), it’s salutary if notdownright gratifying to know thatDoyle’s establishment of the Dublin-based creative writing centre for kids,Fighting Words, celebrates threeyears in existence in January 2012.

“We try to make that blankcreative page as adventurous andinviting as possible. It isn’t a schoolthing, in that it doesn’t end whenthe bell goes. There are no wrongdecisions, just good ones and better

ones, and ones you can learn from.And failure – the decision to giveup and start again is actually quite agood idea very often. In the schoolsystem there’s no room for failure– the word itself is terrifying – sowe try to make it as engaging aspossible. The quality of the work is

rODDY DOYLe’S FAvOUrIte ……CItY “Dublin. other thanDublin, it’s new York, which isa wonderful place. I was therein late october for the othervoices new york event – I walkedup 5th avenue, walked backdown 6th avenue. It was liketwo different cities, yet therewas only a few hundred yardsdistance between them. newyork never fails to surprise me …”… reStAUrAnt “the honestanswer is that I don’t have one,but my favourite bar would haveto include Peter’s Pub[1 Johnson Place, Dublin 2;01 679 3347; peterspub.ie].”

… MUSIC “My currentlistening? I’m really enjoyingSmile, by the beach boys,tom Waits’ new album, Badas Me. I’m also listening to alot of music I heard at thatother voices new york event– bands I wasn’t really familiarwith. Irish bands such as Jape,whose latest album Oceanof Frequency is very good;bellX1’s new album, BloodlessCoup, and the Lost brothers,whose new album, So LongJohn Fante, is out now. Martinhayes, the fiddle player …but the Smile album is just

something else.I didn’t anticipatethat it would beso brilliant.”…BOOKS “I’m avoracious reader,and I’ve just finishedTheMarriage Plotby Jeffrey Eugenides,which I liked verymuch. I’m reading rightnowWhat is Madness? by DarianLeader. It isn’t fiction, and it’san interesting subject. he wrotea book a few years ago calledThe New Black, which is aboutdepression and the ‘depression’

industry. I’m re-reading The CompleteStories of FlanneryO’Connor, and I justlove them. and I’malso reading TheManWho Recorded theWorld, a biography ofalan Lomax, the folkand blues archivist. It’scosting me a fortune,

though, because I’m buying somuch of the music I’m readingabout. oh – and another mustread is Daniel Woodrell’s shortstory collection, TheOutlawAlbum, which is just stunning.”

sometimes quite breathtaking.”Quality is perhaps the key word

when it comes to Doyle himself– albeit quality of life as much asquality control, each of which hehas apparently managed to blendwithout any obvious discomfort.He has little problem scrappingwork he’s not satisfied with, he says,the English teacher in him wielding,rapier-like, a red biro with as muchélan and accuracy as Zorro.

Doyle and the world at largecan be thankful he didn’t cutinto shreds The Commitments,which, in 2012, celebrates the 25thanniversary of its publication (aswell as possibly making its stagedebut in London). Does he have asense of what has happened to himin the intervening time?

“I don’t think about it,” hereplies, “because my head is downworking on things. I go up to theattic and I work away on things, andthat’s as good as I am. I’m not beingcoy, either – as good as I am is whatI’m doing today.”

The Government Inspector runs atDublin’s abbey theatre until January 28(abbeytheatre.ie). roddy Doyle’s latestworks include a short story collection,Bullfighting, and a novel for children,A Greyhound of a Girl. For furtherinformation visit roddydoyle.ie; forfurther details about Fighting Words,visit fightingwords.ie.

“Failure – the decision to give up and start againis actually quite a good idea very often. In theschool system there’s no room for failure ...”

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people


If you like your food (and who doesn’t?), then a stayat an Irish cookery school to polish up your culinaryskills might be just the ticket. Eoin Higgins meets thechefs behind some of Ireland’s best cookery schools.Photographs by Trevor Hart.

A If you like your food (and who doesn’t?), then a stay

Tour If you like your food (and who doesn’t?), then a stay

A If you like your food (and who doesn’t?), then a stay

TourCook’s


Darina andRachel Allen,Ballymaloe,Co CorkBallymaloe, perhaps the best-knowncookery school in the country, is runby the Allen family in Shanagarry, CoCork: Darina Allen (owner, and daughterof its founder, Myrtle Allen) and herdaughter-in-law Rachel Allen. So whatmakes Ballymaloe special? For Darina,it is that “[the school] is right in themiddle of an organic farm and an acre ofgreenhouses. We have really beautifulproduce almost year round. We havehens, pigs, chickens and jersey cows. Ifyou ask the students why they’ve cometo our courses, they will most probablytell you it’s because of the farm.” ForRachel, “It’s Darina and Myrtle’s foodethos, which, put basically, is to start withthe best ingredients possible, grown withthe fewest pesticides. Both [Darina andMyrtle] make it known how important itis to not mess around with the food andto use up everything where possible.That’s what gets great results.” Darinacontinues, “In addition to the cookery, wealso do courses on forgotten skills, wherepeople can learn how to make butter,yogurt, cheeses … how to cure a pig in aday – how to make salamis and chorizos.A lot of people may not feel like makingbutter anytime soon, but if you over-whipcream, it’s useful to know how to make itinto butter, for example.” What else doyou hope to impart to students? Rachelcontinues, “... that it’s easy, and totallypossible, to cook really good food foryou, your friends and your family, even ifyou don’t have a huge amount of time ormoney. The thing that’s hard is knowingthe cuts of meat, the vegetables, knowingthe dishes you can cook. I really try toshow the versatility of different dishes.”And Darina concludes, “Anybody canlearn to cook if they want to. I can bringpeople from ‘this is a wooden spoon’to being able to host a dinner party, ina week. It gives you great confidenceand it’s one of the easiest ways to makefriends and influence people – being ableto cook. You’ll have people crawling outof the woodwork!”

See cookingisfun.ie or contact 021 4646785.

people


An educational,gastronomic odyssey ...in Ireland? It’s notthat long ago that thesuggestion of a foodie

holiday to Ireland might haveelicited expectations of, well, if notan altogether fruitless expedition,then perhaps a fairly uneventfultrip. And rightly so, our gastroreputation had a repertoire thatextended to two or three versions ofsoda bread, a closely guarded recipefor colcannon (kale and potatoes)and a terribly complicated delicacycalled the Full Irish Breakfast. Notexactly a mouth-watering prospect.However, things have changed andvisitors to contemporary Irelandare just as likely to find themselvesextolling the virtues of a pub’sgastronomy as they are its Guinness.

We have a dedicated bunch offood enthusiasts to thank for that– as far back as the 1980s, theyset out to showcase Ireland as thelarder of Europe. Alongside thatfoodie mission, there has been aslow, yet steady movement towardsdeveloping our own cuisine, and it’shard not to be encouraged by therate of change. From the elegance ofDublin’s Michelin-starred templesof gastronomy such as L’Ecrivain,Chapter One and Patrick Guilbaud,to the dedication of the peoplebehind Cork’s thriving marketscene, there is much to be excitedby.

Alongside the growth in thefoodie movement, a slew of world-class cookery schools have openedtheir doors – upwards of 40 schoolsat last count, and that figurecontinues to grow. From KevinDundon’s fantastic DunbrodyCountry House Cookery Schoolin Co Wexford, to the slick newKitchen in the Castle in Dublin’spicturesque coastal town of Howth,there are many, many other schooloptions available to suit everyonefrom an absolute beginner to a nearprofessional. Here, we highlightsome of our favourites and talk tothe people behind their success.

Liz Moore, Belle Isle, Co Fermanagh“Ireland is experiencing an amazing foodrevolution at the moment ... suddenly we’rerecognising what’s right in front of us,because we’ve always had amazing producers.Producers all over the country are really gainingconfidence and saying, you know, we can createour own unique meat dish or vegetable dishthat isn’t based on Parma ham or Parmesancheese.” Liz teaches at Belle Isle CookerySchool in Co Fermanagh, attracting studentsfar and wide, but the school is no overnightsuccess. “I really put in a hard slog for manyyears. So I think one of the reasons I’m wellplaced in the cookery school is that I’ve madeevery mistake in the book, and invented a fewas well. I know firsthand exactly where people

can go wrong and why they go wrong.” What’sthe best aspect of the Belle Isle experience?“We are in a huge shooting area and, in gamingseason, we do a course called Shoot it, Cookit, Eat it. People arrive in the morning andgo off shooting pigeon until lunch. Then theycome back and cook everything they shot. Itgives people total access to the provenance oftheir ingredients and helps engender respect.Seeing a live bird, shooting it, and preparingit may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but if youeat meat, somebody has had to kill it and that’sthe bottom line. I just love being able to useingredients that have had a proper life.”

See belle-isle.com or contact 048 663 87231.

T: 01 630 3500 www.villageatlyons.com

Situated on a private Georgian estate, just 20 minutes from the city & Dublin airport Lyons is Ireland's premier venueRESTAURANT ~ BOUTIQUE HOTEL ~ WEDDING VENUE ~ MEETINGS & EVENTS ~ COOKERY SCHOOL ~ CAFE ~ SHOPS

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Mini Homemade Sausage Rolls with Ballymaloe Country Relish

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Wishing our customers a very Happy and Peaceful Christmas

Ballymaloe Products are widely available in Germany and USA, also available in UK and Luxemburg, please see our website for further details. Visit us online for delicious recipeswww.ballymaloecountryrelish.ie Follow us on facebookwww.facebook.com/ballymaloerelish

people


Clodagh McKennaThe Village atLyons, Co KildareClodagh McKenna has appeared in her own TVseries, authored a number of bestselling bookson Irish food and, most recently, launched tworestaurants at Arnotts in Dublin. She takes apractical approach with newcomers: “I startwith materials, letting students know that it’svital to get the right equipment in the kitchenand, probably more importantly, to budgetwhile doing that. You don’t need ten differenttypes of knives, that’s a myth – you just needa really good chopping knife, a fruit knife, afilleting knife, a good chopping board and thenyou must be organised – organisation is key tohappy, stress-free cooking. I tell students how tobest stock their larder too. Forward planning isessential; I recommend buying all dry goods inbulk. This prevents last-minute big purchases.”And what can students expect from classesin the new year? “What excites me aroundthis time of year is healthy eating. January isprobably my healthiest month so I plan lots ofhealthy cooking classes where we can start theyear off well. We’ll use a lot of fresh vegetablesbecause there aren’t a lot of exciting things inseason. For me, instead of focusing on what’s inseason, it’s more about taking various steps toeat healthier – like juicing. So we’ll be juicing ourway through January!”

See villageatlyons.com or contact 01 630 3500.


Paul Flynn, The Tannery, Co WaterfordPaul Flynn turned his back on the lure ofMichelin stars three years ago to set upa cookery school, alongside his alreadyestablished, and critically-acclaimed,restaurant, The Tannery, in Dungarvan,Co Waterford. “For me, if I had aphilosophy it would be ‘good food doesn’thave to be posh food’, and that’s why I leftthe whole chasing Michelin stars thing;

that philosophy gives you the freedomto cook what you really want to eat. Thatsaid, if you are into experiencing greattechnique too you can still go off to agastronomic temple and enjoy that. Butyou don’t want to be eating that kind offood all the time.” So what type of folksturn up for the classes? “The main thingwith the people who come to us, even if

they are complete beginners, is that theyare people who enjoy food, and that’swhere it all starts, if you like to eat, and Idon’t mean to excess, but if you can evenappreciate a good sandwich, and you’dlike to improve what you do at home, wecan certainly help.”

See tannery.ie or contact 058 45420.

people


Catherine Fulvio, Ballyknocken, Co WicklowGrowing up “a Wicklow farmer’s daughter”has given Catherine Fulvio an enviousgrounding in food production as well aspreparation, and she believes her school’sstrength lies in the fact it is located on aworking farm, in Glenealy. “Ballyknockenis a destination cookery school. We offeraccommodation in our Victorian farmhouseand we run cookery classes too. We are

farming people, so visitors coming fromabroad get to really experience an Irishfarm. Primarily we are sheep farmers, butwe also have our own vegetable, herb andsoft fruit gardens. We produce as muchas we can and that’s really important inthat we give people a look at what grows,and why it grows so well, in Ireland.” It’shard not to be impressed by Catherine’s

pedigree, but surely it’s not just abouthow the food is produced? “My aim is toencourage people to eat well, in order tobe well, and by that I mean source the bestproduce that you can, source your foodfrom people who produce it with love andcare, and that will be good for you.”

See thecookeryschool.ie or call 0404 44627.

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Eimer Rainsford, PinkGinger, DublinEimer Rainsford, of the Dublin cookery schoolPinkGinger in Sandymount, is keen to passon the message that eating locally is a soundway to ensure small suppliers flourish and youget the best produce available. “For me, it’sall about the quality of our suppliers, thosedelivering the raw materials. A lot of whatwe use is local in a way that larger cities can’tmatch.” What else do you think is importantfor someone thinking of donning an apron?“A good understanding of your ingredients

is vital, if you understand the basic thingsabout your ingredients, you’ll be amazed atwhat you can achieve quite quickly. I alsolove when my students enjoy cooking, that’ssomething I want to drive home, cookingshouldn’t be seen as a chore – and it’s nothingto be afraid of. A sense of confidence in thekitchen is also important, to lose that fearof making mistakes; mistakes are part ofthe process.” And the larger food scene inDublin? “Dublin, particularly, has become

really strong in the past ten years, and in linewith that the food has also improved. Youcan see it everywhere, from the youngerchefs coming up now who have a lot ofcreativity, breaking out and doing little thingsindependently, whether it’s a street food ideaor they’ve been given the opportunity to setup in a bar, there is so much going on, andmuch to experience for the food lover.”

See pinkginger.ie or call 087 9864 964. PHOTO

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belfast



Belfast has transformed itself as a tourist destination since TheTroubles. Pól Ó Conghaile finds a heady mix of culture, craic,family-friendly museums, and good old-fashioned rock ’n’ roll in

a once dour city. Photographs by AnthonyWoods.

Belfast has transformed itself as a tourist destination since The

StarStarNorthern

belfast


Have a listen to this,” says PaulKeane, connecting a black iPod tothe bus’s stereo system. There’s morethan a hint of mischief in his voice.“No prize for guessing what it is,but we’re gonna spin around thecorner now to the venue where thesong was first premièred.”

He presses play, and the BelfastMusic Tour eases onto BedfordStreet to a sweet soundtrack, theunmistakable opening bars of one ofrock’s all-time classics. “Stairway toHeaven!” blurts out a man wearinga black hat and pony tail beside me.Behind his white goatee, Paul smiles.

Led Zeppelin first played“Stairway” live at the Ulster Hall onMarch 5, 1971. “The music was soloud they couldn’t hear a gun battletaking place around the corner,”he says, conjuring up the scenewith a delicious attention to detail.Northern Ireland’s Troubles in fullflight, the folksy finger-pickingbuilding and building, Jimmy Pageswitching from six to twelve stringson his twin-necked Gibson, RobertPlant all perm and torso. And withthat, he cranks up the guitar solo.

It’s the first of many surprisesover a weekend in Belfast. Wasn’tthis supposed to be a dour city, ableak industrial port whose mostfamous export sank on its maidenvoyage? Isn’t it supposed to bescarred by conflict, a place wherenothing opens before silly-o-clockon a Sunday?

Erm, no, actually. As the music

tour hints, it’s a city with a whackof northern soul. Did you knowBelfast is twinned with Nashville,Tennessee? Think of Van Morrisonsinging about Cypress Avenue.Picture the sweat from RoryGallagher’s face slowly eroding hisStratocaster. Check out the guitarGary Lightbody of Snow Patrolused to write “Chasing Cars” inthe Oh Yeah Music Centre. Pausefor thought at the gallery of signedphotos at the Limelight. Oasis wereon stage here when they first hitNo 1 in the UK album charts. Theypromptly downed tools to celebrate.

Belfast stereotypes in mid-shatter, I head out of the Oh YeahMusic Centre, where the tour ends,into the Cathedral Quarter. Namedfor St Anne’s Cathedral (you can’tmiss it – there’s a 70-metre Spire ofHope bursting through its roof), thearea is today the focus of a thrivingarts scene, with galleries like BelfastExposed and Red Barn sharing thecobblestones with some of the city’sbest bars and restaurants, an artscollege and the Belfast circus school.Walking past the Duke of York

ere’s more the bus’s stereo system. Th

tour hints, it’s a city with a whack

pub, I spot a mural of legendaryBBC broadcaster John Peel downan alleyway.

Usually, when I think of muralsin Belfast, dodgy renderings of KingBilly on end-of-terrace houses alongthe Shankill Road spring to mind.These stalwarts of sectarian conflictare still on full display of course –the difference now is that they are atourist attraction.

The best way to see the murals,and the bleak “peace line” dividingthe Catholic and Protestantcommunities of West Belfast, is on aBlack Taxi Tour. Previously, cabbieslike the one that drove me aroundwould have feared for their life here.

Previous page,Kieran Arthur ofCabbage Patchat St George’sMarket. This

page, clockwisefrom top left, the

Titanic Belfastin the TitanicQuarter, the

Albert MemorialClock Tower; theVictoria Centre’s

glass dome;Pól Ó Conghailefinds plenty ofNorthern soul.

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Now, they’re happy to chat away astourists hop in and out, shootingpictures of murals of Bobby Sands orPicasso’s “Guernica” on the Catholicside, or the balaclava-wearing UVFmember whose gun follows youlike the Mona Lisa’s eyes along theShankill. I’m even encouraged toscribble my name on the wallwith a marker.

Welcome to 21st-centuryNorthern Ireland. Since the BelfastAgreement of 1998, the city hasblossomed. Its docklands have beenreborn as the Titanic Quarter.Taking my kids up the elevator tothe twinkling, gherkin-like domeof the Victoria Square shoppingcentre, we see a skyline dominatedby Samson and Goliath, the iconicHarland & Wolff cranes, sure.But we also see theWaterfront,which recently hosted the MTVEuropean Music Awards, thesplashes of neon, and the newTitanic Belfast centre shimmering

like a starfish on the riverbank.AtThanksgiving Square,

my daughter Rosa and I stop at asculpture of a woman holding upwhat looks like a giant metal hula-hoop. It’s Andy Scott’s “Beacon ofHope”, a spiralling, stainless steellady on the Lagan, and a celebrationof peace and harmony.

Belfast works for families too.The following morning at the UlsterMuseum, we’re issued with a KidsExplorer Map and a set of stickers,which we use to ferret out Takabutithe mummy, Peter the polar bearand Spanish Armada treasureamidst the collections.

“Do you want to hold somedinosaur poo?” asks an attendant atone of the interactive areas. We do,and it feels like rusty metal. Fromthere, we proceed to peer throughmarvellous microscopes and grown-up binoculars, check the pointinessof a piranha’s teeth and stroke aseal pelt before chasing each other

around the sun-splashed BotanicGardens outside.

TheUlster Folk & TransportMuseum out inHolywood is alsoworth a whizz. Sure, it sounds fusty.But then you find yourself standingnext to real-lifeThomas the TankEngines, chatting to costumed actors,and gazing like a twelve-year-old ata real DeLorean DMC-12. Anothersurprise – the star car from the Back tothe Futuremovies, complete with gull-wing doors, was built in Belfast.

The museum is also home toTITANICa, an exhibition tracingthe story of the ill-fated liner, alsobuilt in Belfast, from inception toiceberg. It’s not all storyboards and

Left, dinosaurpoo, piranha

teeth and giantconches – all at the

Ulster Museum;Pol’s daughter,Rosa listens forthe ocean’s roar,

above, green spaceat the Botanic

Gardens.

the InsIder’s GuIdeRestaurateur Michael Deanelives in Belfast with his wife andchild and runs six restaurants,one of which, Deanes, held aMichelin star for over twelveyears. Despite a hectic workschedule, he likes to get outand about to enjoy the city.

“As I’m a keen runner,Belfast is the ideal city for meto get away from it all withinjust minutes of the busy citystreets. the lagan towpathstretches for eleven miles from

Belfast to Lisburn, the townwhere I was born. It’s a superbrun along the beautiful riverside ... a truly amazing naturalasset right on our doorstep!

A more recent additionto the city is the world-classVictoria square shoppingCentre, housing some ofthe most glamorous shops inIreland. It’s my perfect placefor a Sunday afternoon browse.

I’m proud that my business,deanes restaurant, is in

Howard Street – the BondStreet of Belfast – with itsunique mix of individual shopslike the upmarket gift storeequinox and without doubtthemost cutting-edgemen’sfashion shop in the city,the bureau belfast.

As a family we love ethniccooking and our favouritehaunt is the all seasonsChinese restaurant inBotanic Avenue in theUniversity Quarter of Belfast.”


eat at …Mourne seafood bar Don’t expect aset menu at this city-centre joint onBank Street. Do expect a dark bistrobustling with everyone from businesssuits to shoppers, and snap-freshdishes based on the day’s catch fromKilkeel. Oysters are a speciality. 0489024 8544; mourneseafood.com.

James street south Stashed awaydown a back street near City Hall, NiallMcKenna’s restaurant, above, is a studyin minimalist chic. Local ingredientsand French-influenced cooking stopjust short of being stuffy … perfect forthat little black dress. 048 9043 4310;jamesstreetsouth.co.uk.Made in belfast Venison burgers,game stews and cow pies are allon the winter menu at this funkyWellington Street spot, with a mash-up of décor you’d just love to takehome to your loft. 048 9024 6712;madeinbelfastni.com. (It has a secondrestaurant on Talbot Street in theCathedral Quarter; 048 9024 4107.)

sleep at …

Merchant hotel The one Belfasthotel, above, that would turn headsanywhere in the world. The five-starfits effortlessly into the CathedralQuarter, an Art Deco extension wasrecently added, and they even have

a Rolls-Royce for airport runs. Roomsfrom £160; 16 Skipper Street; 0489023 4888; themerchanthotel.com.europa Belfast’s grand dame hasbeen at the centre of city (andpolitical) life for 40 years, with aguest list that ranges from Bill Clintonto Atomic Kitten. 272 bedroomsdon’t exactly make for an intimateproposition, but it is a classic. Roomsfrom £90; Great Victoria Street. 0489027 1066; hastingshotels.com.the Malmaison Located in aswankily restored old warehouse,the Malmaison is Belfast’s Goth-chicboutique hotel, a decadent, low-litbolthole (“slinky” is a word that cropsup on its website) with 62 bedroomsand two rock ’n’ roll suites. Roomsfrom £85; Victoria Street; 048 90220200; malmaison-belfast.com.

shop at …envoy Ruth Spence’s boutique is abeautiful space lined with labels youwon’t find anywhere else in NorthernIreland. Think Paul Harnden, FWKor Bags in Progress – she even takesalterations to the tailor on a sparklingBlack Nelly bicycle. 4 Wellington Street;048 9031 1110; envoyofbelfast.com.

smyth & Gibson Shirts start at £90a pop here, above, but there’s areason for the high prices: it’s thelast shirtmaker in Northern Ireland.Products are hand-crafted from Swissand Italian cottons, and equal caregoes into the freshly baked treatsupstairs. 16-22 Bedford Street; 0489023 0388; smythandgibson.com.déjà vu The Lisburn Road doesn’talways justify its “style mile”sobriquet, but shops like this arewhat browsing is all about. Designercast-offs are the speciality – flogyour own (there’s a 50 per centcommission) or buy someone else’s.453 Lisburn Road; 048 9038 1807.

figurines either – exhibits include aporthole and soup tureen recoveredfrom the wreck, and if you lookclosely at a poster from the 1997movie starring Kate Winslet andLeonardo DiCaprio, you’ll spot adelicate little message from MillvinaDean, the final Titanic survivor atthe time of her death in 2009.

It’s the Titanic’s centenary in2012 and Belfast is going big on thecommemorations. A full-on festivalwill culminate in a gala show onApril 14, and a multi-million-eurointeractive centre is set to open inMarch. Titanic Belfast will tell theliner’s story from conception rightthrough to the discovery of herghoulish grave 13,000 feet beneaththe Atlantic Ocean.

“We only built and designedit,” as my black taxi tour guidedeadpanned. “It took an Englishmanto drive it into the iceberg.”

Nevertheless, Belfast has thestrongest claim of any city to theTitanic. Stand at the lip of theThompson Dry Dock today, andit’s hard not to be moved by theeeriness and scale of the liner’sfootprint. The Pump-Housealongside was once the beating heartof Harland & Wolff’s operations,and you can take a Titanic walkingtour (titanicwalk.com) that includesspecial access to the original

belfast


drawing offices. “Belfast was theCape Canaveral of its day,” onelocal tells me. “There was suchimagination and chutzpah in whatthose shipbuilders could do.”

The chutzpah isn’t all historical,mind you. Step inside St George’sMarket and you’ll see that. Everykind of trader is at work amongstthe cast-iron columns here – thelugubrious fishmonger holding uphis salmon, the hen and duck eggman, the beaming fruit and veg guywith a fistful of mucky carrots. Aswe’re leaving, a stallholder handsover two apples.

“They’re lovely,” he says.“No charge.”

“There’s a bit of a renaissancegoing on at the moment,” is how

Michele Shirlow of NI Good Foodputs it, over a plate of salt and chillisquid at the Mourne Seafood Bar.There’s more confidence aroundsince The Troubles, she says. Youngchefs, new cookery schools and smallproducers are following the trailsblazed by mavericks such as MichaelDeane and Paul Rankin. “NorthernIreland is being itself; it’s notpretending to be something else.”

And we do eat well in Belfast.There’s an excellent rack of Antrimlamb with smoked aubergine atJames Street South, with mostingredients sourced within 30 milesof the city. Michael Deane mayhave lost his Michelin Star, but hisBedford Street bistro is bustling,and I can recommend the grilled

thewonderfulworld ofw5Parents raised on a diet of“Don’t Touch” signs shouldtake a deep breath beforeentering W5. From themoment you step into thisinteractive galaxy, kids aretouching, feeling, smelling andpressing everything in sight.It’s like a child’s imaginationlaid out over several storeys.

Within seconds ofshedding her coat, Rosa, five,is pumping air into giant tubesof water, watching jellyfish-like bubbles rise towards theceiling. Beside us, anotherfather and daughter figure outhow to inflate hot air balloons.Upstairs, you can even take alie detector test.

Almost 200 interactive

exhibits are spread over fourdynamic areas – labelled Start,Go, See and Do. Seeing as bothof my kids fall into the noughtto eight bracket (Sam, right withPól, is one), we make a beelinefor Start, a hands-on discoveryarea that will be familiar to fansof Dublin’s Imaginosity.

It’s like being in a candyfactory, only the candy iseducational rather than edible.Rosa hits the supermarket,filling a basket with plasticfood. Sam can’t get over thefact that he’s allowed to sitinto the driver’s seat, and spinthe wheel, in a bright yellowMini Cooper.

Over the course of anhour or so, the kids get to lift

foam tiles with a crane, shootplastic balls into an air vortex,compare the size andtexture of their hands to agorilla’s, work a boat sail,and serve toy buns and caketo adults in the mini-café.They can’t believe their luck.

As well as the permanentexhibits, W5 stages regularexhibitions, science demosand events. It’s clean, well-maintained and, astonishingly,there’s very little evidence ofthe trashing it must take fromkids on a daily basis. An A-plusall round.

Admission £7.70/£5.70 atOdyssey, 2 Queen’s Quay, 0489046 7700; w5online.co.uk.

haddock and crushed peas forSunday lunch at Deanes at Queens.I also demolish several oysters and aplate of squid and chorizo risotto atthe Mourne Seafood Bar.

“Belfast, devout and profaneand hard,” runs a line from LouisMacNeice’s Valediction. The counterargument to that is a night out.From barnstorming trad sessions atKelly’s Cellars to cocktails at the

Left, St George’sMarket, and above,

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hand in glove withthe decadent damask,tasselled lamps andvelvet cushions upstairs.

Then there’s theCrown Liquor Saloon,a pub so fine it’s a nationalmonument. Dating from 1885,the network of timeworn woodensnugs here has to be seen to bebelieved, as do the mosaic tiles,stained glass, scalloped lights andburnished primrose ceiling.

Our final stop in Belfast is the

Harlem Café,back full circleat Ulster Hall. “I

took a mad riskopening here,” says

Faye Rogers. An oldpiano bar had previously

blocked out the building’sart nouveau windows, she says,

allowing customers inside to danceon the tables duringThe Troubles.

Today, I’m happy to say, Belfastis dancing in broad daylight.

Merchant Hotel, Belfast’s pubsand clubs are driving on with athumping sense of freedom.

At Muriel’s Café Bar onChurch Lane, I spot the barmanmixing up a fire-engine red cocktailin a jam jar. It’s a Milliner’s Mix, thehouse special, though he won’t saywhat class of liquor is being shakenup with the ice and cranberry juice.“It’s a secret,” he smiles. I order one,unscrew the lid, pop in a short blackstraw, and get supping. It’s sweetand syrupy, with a sly kick – going

book now for …the Queen: art and ImageThis touring exhibition from theNational Portrait Gallery bringsa host of paintings, photos andmedia portraits to the UlsterMuseum. Images from the likesof Warhol and Leibovitz mark60 years of Queen Elizabeth’sreign (to January 15, 2012). Seenmni.com.Christmas in belfast Theannual continental market isin full flight at City Hall untilDecember 19, with a village oftraditional wooden huts bringingnibbles and crafts from asfar afield as Peru and France(belfastcity.gov.uk/markets).

Santa will be ensconced in hisgrotto, and a musical adaptationof The Little Prince is at the Lyric(lyrictheatre.co.uk) until January15, 2012.the out to lunch festivalEvery January the edge is takenfrom Belfast’s winter chill withthis lunchtime series of music,comedy and theatre. The geniusbit is that tickets include a biteto eat – all for a recession-busting £6. This year’s line-upincludes Mercury nomineeGhostpoet, Luka Bloom,journalist Jon Ronson andcomedian Josie Long. January4-29, 2012. See cqaf.com.

the titanic belfast festival2012 Titanic was built inBelfast, and a series of eventsis planned for 2012 to mark thecentenary of the liner’s ill-fatedmaiden voyage. They includethe opening the new TitanicBelfast interactive centre(April 7), an MTV event on theTitanic slipways (April 11) anda gala commemoration in theWaterfront Hall (April 14). Seediscovernorthernireland.com/titanic2012.land of Giants NorthernIreland’s largest ever outdoorarts event will bring a cast andcrew of 500 to the Titanic

slipways on June 30. Takingits inspiration from localgiants including Finn McCool,Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver andHarland & Wolff’s cranes, theacrobatics, music, pyrotechnicsand dance will play a key rolein the lead up to the 2012Olympics. See landofgiants.info.the belfast festival at Queen’sThe 50th instalment of Belfast’sflagship arts festival takes placefrom October 19 to November 3,2012, with an exciting programmeof dance, music, theatre, visualarts, film, classical and worldmusic coming to life in manyforms. See belfastfestival.com.

DaytripThe Giant’s Causeway

is the top attraction alongthe Northern coast – strewn with

hexagonal basalt columns formed byvolcanic eruptions some 60 million years

ago. Don’t miss the vertiginous Carrick-a-Rederope bridge near Ballintoy (it will earn you thatwhiskey in Bushmill’s), and it’s also possibleto take a 20-minute ferry ride to Rathlin,

Ireland’s most northerly inhabitedisland. discovernorthernireland.com;

rathlinballycastleferry.com.

To find out more information on what’s on in Belfast or for information on places to stay or things to see and

do in Northern Ireland, check out the free booking and advice service and callsave 1850 230 230, visit NITB’s

Tourist Information Centre in Suffolk Street Dublin 2 or click on discovernorthernireland.com.

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EscapE



Beach life is elevated to an art form on the islands off Cape Cod.Summer resident Laura George explores a place fit for a president.

leaveShore

Jetlag really works a treat onMartha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. Itmeans you can slot in almost instantly with the pace of island life.American holiday-makers are serious early birds. They suck everysecond out of their vacations, beginning with a jog or swim firstthing in the morning. By 8 am, they’ve done a full work out and are

sitting down on the porch with their favourite frothy hot drink (but not fromStarbucks – all chains are banned from the islands) andThe New York Times.

They come out in droves, ribbons of them winding down the bike pathsthat run parallel to the beach from Edgartown to Oak Bluffs, two of theVineyard’s main towns, stopping off sometimes for a dip in the calm Sound.Cars (which rarely exceed 40 kmph) come to a complete halt for anyonecrossing over the road at least five metres in advance. They wield theirpolitesse as if to say, “here at least we are civilised. America is not broken.”There’s definitely a hint ofThe Truman Show about.

ESCAPE


The population swells from amodest 15,000 to more than 75,000in peak season but there’s plenty ofroom for everyone and somethingfor everybody. Each town on theisland has a distinct personality.Edgartown is the preppy patriarchwho kicks off every night witha stiff martini, Oak Bluffs thefunkier cousin with a penchantfor craft beer, Vineyard Haventhe primmer aunt who has to getup in the morning for work (it’s adry town so you have to BYOB torestaurants). Up island, Chilmark,Aquinnah and Tisbury are theBoho black sheep of the family– within reason. Everyonestill drives a Volvo or SUVbut it’s dented, plasteredwith private beach permitstickers from the last15 years, and containsat least two large dogs.Hamptons-style bling isfrowned on everywherebut particularly here.

Architecturally thehistoric towns are distinct,too. Edgartown’s stately whalingcaptains’ houses are picture-perfectGreek Revival; Oak Bluffs is allabout gingerbread Victorians andthe sprawling up island farms withtheir dry stone walls and meadows

are surprisingly reminiscent of theIrish countryside. One hedge fundgentleman “farmer” there has aherd of Wagyu cattle shipped in atthe beginning of every summer tocomplete the tableau. They leaveafter Labor Day. But that’s nothingcompared to the spectacle of theObamas arriving in a massive fleet ofhelicopters for their annual getawayat Blue Heron Farm. While they’rein residence, a naval destroyeranchors off the beach. Just in case.

The rest of us mortals eschewflying in to the islands so as tosavour the magic of the ferry from

the Cape. The minute you boardand come out on deck, you’ve

entered an alternativeuniverse; the holiday hasbegun. A hot cup of NewEngland clam chowder inhand, the Cape recedesand Vineyard landmarkscome into clearer view –

the estates of East Chop,the tall ship Shenandoah,

which cruises the harbour,and Ocean Park, ringed by

beautiful old houses.Vineyard beaches are magnificent

and as varied as the towns. SouthBeach stretches for miles with classicdunes, big surf, lifeguards and plentyof opportunities for people-watching.

It’s like an Abercrombie catalogueshoot so teenagers love it but familieswith smaller children tend to preferthe near stillness of sheltered StateBeach, or the lagoon at Long Pointwhere toddlers can paddle withimpunity. Meanwhile, the moreadventurous trek farther afield todeserted beaches accessible only byboat, a hike or four-wheel drive (withpermit) on Chappaquiddick, orone of the nature preserves operatedby the state’s land trust, including arelatively secluded nudist beach atAquinnah. For those keen on privacy,a rake of private beaches up islandare nirvana; you have to rent or ownlocally to be granted a special permitfor them. Think post-Ari Jackie Owalking in her headscarf and caprisalone in the surf.

Whatever the destination, aday at the beach tends to be muchmore elaborately outfitted thanthe average skite to Brittas Bay.Everyone has beach chairs, a propercooler (maybe on wheels) and somesports equipment at a minimum(you can rent everything on-islandfrom fishing rods to yachts). At amaximum, there will be not justa full-sized barbecue but all theaccoutrements for a beach clambake– lobsters, clams and the mostdelectable fresh corn on earth.

As well as endless fresh seafood,the island has a disproportionateamount of organic farms, whichyield incredible produce that issold at roadside farmstands andmarkets, many of which operateon honesty systems (you leave yourmoney behind in an open tin can!).A foodie could make a nice day oftouring the island collecting freshyogurt, heirloom tomatoes, home-baked pies and bouquets.

This page, fromleft, the laidback

charm of Martha’sVineyard, summer

resident LauraGeorge in the

Sound, gingerbreadhouses at Oakbluffs,

beachcombinggoodies. Opposite,

up island at Gayhead Lighthouse.

SOUNDTRACKLong-time islanders James

Taylor and Carly Simon wouldhave to feature prominently but

throw Tisbury native Willy Mason’sIf the Ocean Gets Rough andVampire Weekend’s CapeCod Kwassa Kwassa into

the mix.

It’s like an Abercrombie catalogue shoot so teenagers love it but families

with smaller children tend to preferthe near stillness of sheltered Beach

where toddlers can paddle with impunity. Meanwhile, the more eld to adventurous trek farther afi

deserted beaches accessible only by boat, a hike or four-wheel drive (with

permit) on one of the nature preserves operated


The population swells from amodest 15,000 to more than75,000 in peak season but there’splenty of room for everyone andsomething for everybody.

EscapE

Lazier gourmets have an endlessarray of choice, too. They can startby queuing up for breakfast at TheArtCliff Diner in Vineyard Haven.There may be an hour wait (in thesun, with a paper and loads of chat),but mascarpone and strawberry-stuffed French toast, pecan rumraisin pancakes and lobster eggsBenedict somehow make it allworthwhile. At the other end of theday, the hopping Atlantic Bar &Grill’s legendary surf and turf orthe innovative farm-to-table cuisineof State Road (the Obama’s virtualcanteen) awaits. Alternatively, it’shard to beat sitting on a dock atsunset with a giant tub of friedclams and a Narragansett beer. It’sa miracle anyone goes home withoutgaining a stone – no wonder they allexercise so much.

There is a subtle but palpabledifference between Nantucketand Martha’s Vineyard,although they are only ashort ferry ride apart.Some would say theformer is more rarefiedand more exclusive.It’s certainly smaller,with only one realtown, Nantucket (thepicturesque Siasconset– pronounced “Sconset”– in the easternmostpart of the island is moreof a hamlet, although itdoes boast a little “casino”where they play movies on

EaT aT ...atlantic Bar & Grill Bestal fresco views, seafood,buzz (2 Main Street,Edgartown, 001 508 6277001; atlanticmv.com).Détente Upscale andinventive (Nevin Square,Edgartown, 001 508 6278810; detentemv.com).Offshore ale Microbreweryand bar food (30 KennebecAvenue, Oak Bluffs, 001 508693 2626; offshoreale.com).state Road Farm to table joys (688State Road, West Tisbury, 001 508693 8582; stateroadrestaurant.com).artcliff Diner All day, all good (39Beach Road, Vineyard Haven, 001508 693 1224).NaNTUcKET Brotherhoodof Thieves Family classic (23Bond Street, 001 508 228 2551;brotherhoodofthieves.com). FogIsland café Breakfast to die for (7South Water Street, 001 508 2281818; fogisland.com). somethingNatural Sandwiches, baked goodssans pareil (50 Cliff Road, 001 508228 0504; somethingnatural.com).

sLEEp aT ...Most visitors rent houses althoughthere are some lovely places to stay.On the Vineyard, the boutique HobKnob (rooms from $200, 128 MainStreet, Edgartown, 001 508 6279510; hobknob.com) and ultra fancycharlotte Inns (rooms from $325, 27South Summer Street, Edgartown,001 508 627 4151; charlotteinn.net)aren’t very beachy but they areromantic and well positioned. Theclassic Harbor View (rooms from$99, 131 North Water Street,Edgartown, 001 508 627 7000;harbor-view.com), Harborside(open April to November, roomsfrom $210, 3 South Water Street,Edgartown, 001 800 627 4009;theharborsideinn.com) andKelley House Hotels (roomsfrom $89, 23 Kelley Street,Edgartown, 001 508 627 7900;kelley-house.com) meanwhile

boast pools and sea views. Out oftown, The Beach plum Inn (roomsfrom $195, 12 Menemsha Inn Road,001 508 645 9500; beachpluminn.com) in Menemsha and theLambert’s cove Inn (rooms from$175, 90 Manaquayak Road, 001 508693 2298; lambertscoveinn.com)are cute.NaNTUcKET’s Wauwinet Inn(rooms from $225, 120 WauwinetRoad, 001 508 228 1045; wauwinet.com) is pure luxury (with prices tomatch) while TheWhite Elephant(rooms from $195, 50 Easton Street;whiteelephanthotel.com) earnsits reputation as the local GrandeDame year after year.

sHOp aT ...Bunch of Grapes One of the mostoutstanding bookshops in America.The First Family’s first stop (44Main Street, Vineyard Haven, 001508 693 2291). Midnight FarmUnconventional gifts, furnishingsand clothing (18 Water-CromwellLane, Vineyard Haven, 001 508693 1997; midnightfarm.net). NochiExquisite, elegant neutral fashionedit and furnishings (29 Main Street,Vineyard Haven, 001 508 693 9074;nochimv.com).NaNTUcKET Murray’s ToggeryFor iconic island classics (62 MainStreet, Nantucket, 001 800 3682134; nantucketreds.com).

DRINK aT ...atlantic After dinner the restaurantbecomes a nightclub (2 Main Street,Edgartown, 001 508 627 7001;atlanticmv.com). sand Bar (6 CircuitAvenue, Oak Bluffs, 001 508 6937111). Nectar’s Live music(17 Airport Road, Vineyard Haven,001 508 693 1137).NaNTUcKET captain Toby’s andGazebo (20 Straight Wharf, 001508 228 0836). The chicken BoxLive music (16 Dave Street, 001 508228 9717; thechickenbox.com).

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an old projector). It is also perhapsmore aesthetically pristine thanksto a draconian building code thatprohibits any deviations from theHistoric District Commissionpalette of less than a dozen mutedshades, including Nantucket blue,Nantucket red and Nantucket gray.

As on the Vineyard, life isbeach-centric. Nobadeer draws thecollege kids, Cisco and Surfsidethe surfers, Dionis and Jetties thefamilies. The longer car ferry ride(two hours from Hyannis) translatesto even fewer crowds, and shorterdistances on the island itself meaneverywhere is accessible by bike.There’s real magic in that, providedyou don’t plan on staying too long.

Tradition is part of the fabric ofboth islands but Nantucket has itsown special events, chief among

them Nantucket Race Week,which culminates in the OperaHouse Regatta and a legendarybeach party. It’s paradise for sailorsand they flock here from all over.Summer ends on a high note witha massive sandcastle competitionon Jetties Beach. No splutteringgloops of wet sand here but ratherbreathtaking skyscrapers andcreative installations that vie withreplicas of Big Ben and The WhiteHouse. One thing’s for sure, they’veelevated beach life to an art formhere and across the Sound.

GETTING THEREFrom Boston, you can connect byair (capeair.com) or by car ferry tothe islands (steamshipauthority.com). It’s the easiest connectionimaginable from Boston’s Loganairport – a bus picks you up at theairport right outside the baggagehall and delivers you to the ferry,which leaves a few minutes laterand the journey lasts about 45minutes. The whole trip takestwo-and-a-half hours door todoor. If you are planning to renta car, rates are substantiallycheaper in Boston, but be sure tobook your ferry reservation early– prime summer dates evaporateearly in the new year. If you won’tneed a car, check out passenger-only ferries from Manhattan(nefastferry.com), Rhode Island(vineyardfastferry.com) and theCape (hylinecruises.com).

DON’T MIsscampground cottages,Oak Bluffs Tour street afterstreet of fairytale gingerbreadhouses painted all thecolours of the rainbow. ComeAugust 15, 2012, they will bedecorated with thousandsof paper lanterns for Grand

Illumination, a one-nightannual celebration with streetparties and a patriotic sing-along concert.

The agricultural Fair, TisburyJunk food, carnival rides,pig races and hard-fought

competitions for baking,gardening, flower arranging,pets and crafts. Mid-August.

Fireworks on July 4th as wellas to mark the end of summer(August 17 2012), are on a scalethat defies description.

aer Lingus flies from Dublinto Boston daily, and fromShannon to Boston on Tues,Thurs and Sat.

Boats moored inNantucket Harbor

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winter sun



Back in the 1990s, a teenaged Kate O’Dowd visitedGran Canaria and took home sunburn and a broken heart.Now, older and wiser, she revisits (long-term boyfriend in tow)

and uncovers a very different holiday experience.

Cool huntinginGranCanaria

winter sun


not the landscape I was expecting... the colour scheme was all off.Like most, I imagined golden sandand azure sea (coupled perhapswith tatty beach shops and cheesybars), certainly not this wildness.And it was a nice surprise. Theperfect metaphor for what wewere to discover throughout GranCanaria – that its reputation appliesonly to small pockets, and mereminutes away you find exquisitenatural beauty and well-preservedtraditional culture. The north isverdant and picturesque – thinkbanana plantation villages on ocean-side hills – while the centre is all redvolcanic soil, dry and dramatic. Theisland has a rich history and a stronglocal culture, very much apart frommainland Spain. A continent inminiature, as the tourist board says.

Isolated relaxation ensued at theSheraton, a sort of laze-eat-drink-swim-laugh luxury combo, loungingon Balinese beds, mesmerised byviews, eating excellent food atCameleón, and sipping cocktailsin the chic Lounge 230. Thetemptation to stay here, luxuriatingin this hilltop haven was strong,but the call to cool was stronger. Achance find in the local newspaper

informed us that Godskitchen(godskitchen.com) was takingtravelling rave-fest Boombox to thecapital, Las Palmas, in the North. Icould almost smell the hipsters frommy sun lounger.

A scenic, coastal, hour-and-a-halfbus journey away from Maspalomas,Las Palmas has the feel of a far-flungcolonial outpost; an interestingmishmash of architecture, reflectingthe various stages of its colonialhistory. The prettiest and mosthistoric area is Vegueta, where thecity was founded in the 15th century– a romantic warren of sandstonecobbled, winding streets with littlecourtyards, gothic archways andunassuming fountains. The venerableSanta Ana Cathedral is an imposingpresence, standing just in front of theMuseo Casa de Colón (0034 928312 373; casadecolon.com) said to bethe house Columbus stayed in beforesetting out onThe Voyage. It’s now amuseum dedicated to him and wortha look, if only for the exotic internalcourtyard featuring two large parrots(mating, during our visit, so we keptour distance). And it wasn’t just theparrots – there’s romance in the air inVegueta. Young couples canoodled inquiet doorways, elderly ones walked

The first time I holidayedin Gran Canaria, I was17. I stayed in Playa delInglés with nine friends,where we rarely left the

100-metre radius that was our less-than-salubrious apartment complex,and the Irish Centre (a shoppingcentre filled with late-night barscalled The Shamrock or similarand restaurants serving lasagne andchips). I fell head over heels, drank alot of Sex on the Beach and arrivedhome heart-broken and striped withsunburn. Returning now, ten yearslater, with all the sophistication thatcomes with a high-flying career inlifestyle journalism, a long-termboyfriend in tow, and staying in (themuch posher)Maspalomas, I wasexpecting something different.This time I was in search of theCool Canaries.

First up, digs. Though justten minutes from the centre ofMaspalomas, in the south of GranCanaria, the quietly cool SheratonSalobre Golf & Spa Resort (from€160 per room, with breakfast;0034 928 943 000; sheratonsalobre.com) feels peacefully isolated,surrounded by rocky, arid hillswith barely a house in sight. It was

Clockwise fromleft, Kate, withboyfriend BrianPrice; mountain-

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winter sun


hand in hand. Myself and Himselffelt we owed it to the place to steal aquick snog in a little square, but weredisturbed when a young gentlemanwith two large white rats clingingto his dreadlocks crossed our paths.This is what I mean by colonialoutpost. Las Palmas seems full tothe brim with eccentrics, giving it anexciting – if sometimes uneasy – air.

A trip across town brought us towhat is widely regarded as one of thebest city beaches in the world. Playade las Canteras is where tourismstarted on Gran Canaria, andstretches for over three kilometresof golden sand and a natural coralbarrier that shelters the shore fromAtlantic currents, keeping thewaters as placid as a swimmingpool. Sitting on the beach, watchingtrendy locals having barbecuebirthday parties and elderly gentsplaying chess in the sand, wegot a gorgeous snapshot of whatCanarian life is really like, and howcompletely detached it is from whatmost resort tourists see.

Rumbling stomachs at 7pmprompted a search for food, resultingin a frustrating wander through

Triana (the area surrounding Callede Triana – get your high streetfix here), to find only fast foodoptions and tapas chains open forbusiness before 9pm, and a growingdisharmony in the ranks (I gotcranky). After sitting out the wait,aided by beer and nibbles outsidethe eccentrically historicHotelMadrid (Plaza Cairasco 4, 0034928 360 664; elhotelmadrid.com) –Franco stayed here in 1936, as didmany early stars of the silver screen,though I wouldn’t imagine they gettoo many these days – we madeour way across the streetto La Butaca (0034 928431 383), a minimalist,contemporary and, yes,cool little place servingmodern Mediterraneancuisine, which wehad heard was muchloved by Canariangastronomes. The foodwas fresh and deliciousand the atmospherebuzzing with hip locals anda few in-the-know tourists.Worth the wait.

With full tanks, we made our

48Hrs inLAs PALMAsWhether you’re staying in a resort orsomewhere very rural, factoring in anight or two in the capital is a greatway to soak up some real culture.stAY At Hotel Cristina, five-star design-led luxury, on Playade las Canteras. A recent refurbhas it looking all fresh and sleek,but be sure to ask for one of thenewer rooms (from €93 for a sea-view double; 0034 928 268 050;hotelcristinalaspalmas.com).GrAZe At theMercato de Vegueta(0034 928 334 129; mercadovegueta.com), a sort of market-cum-food hall –choose from tapas bars, cafés or themakings of your own picnic.PLAY At Museo elder (ParqueSanta Catalina, 0034 828 011 828;museoelder.org), the science andtechnology museum – definitely notjust for children, this is a very handson, super-fun approach to learning.I challenge any adult not to learnsomething (or a lot).strOLL tHrOuGH ParqueDoramas, then have a nose around

Hotel santa Catalina (0034 928243 040; hotelsantacatalina.com), the city’s mosthistoric luxury hotel –past guests includeWinston Churchill,Agatha Christie andGregory Peck.eAt At restauranteLa Marinera (Paseo LasCanteras, 1, 0034 928468 802) – much loved

by locals for its positionpractically in the sea and for

its delicious fresh fish.tAKe in A sHOw at thearchitecturally stunning AuditorioAlfredo Kraus (Playa de las Canteras,0034 928 491 770; auditorio-alfredokraus.com) home to thePhilharmonic Orchestra as well as theballet of Gran Canaria and it hoststhe Canary islands Music Festival(January 10-18, 2012).HAVe DrinKs on the terrace of thetaberna Las ranas (Plaza Hurtadode Mendoza; 0034 928 368 203),where the cool kids go before hittingthe tiles.GO FOrCarnaval de Las Palmas(February 3-21, 2012); lpacarnaval.com.

COMINGSOON

Keep your eyes peeled for theopening of Bohemia Suites & Spa

(set for March 2012) in Playa del Ingles– a beachfront hotel that promises “asophisticated lifestyle oasis for adults,surrounded by the volcanic beautyof Gran Canaria”. Sounds just theticket and looks unbelievably

hip and de luxe;designhotels.com.

FOur GreAt (But tOtALLY unCOOL)tHinGs tO DO1 Walk the famous DunasMaspalomas. These could justas easily be in the Namibiandesert, though ona significantly smaller scale,so this can be attemptedwithout the risk of mirage(that’s actually the sea)2 Visit the pretty western

seaside village of Puerto deMogan – known as the bestmicro-climate in the world andLittle Venice (obviously dueto its canals) – for old worldholiday charm 3 Explore LaCueva Pintada (painted caves)and the surrounding dwellingsites which chart life in the

town of Gáldar back as faras the 7th century (0034 928895 746; cuevapintada.org)4 Seek out the iglesiade san Juan Bautista, astartling Gaudi-esquechurch (it was built by hisprotégé) in the unassumingrural town of Aracus.

Playa deMaspalomas

manages to feelspacious and

sheltered at thesame time.

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winter sun


way to what we thought to be afairground site, high up, on theedge of the city and found, inBoombox, everything I love in amusic event – great lineup, graphicoutdoor stage, no queues, chilled-out crowd, amazing views over thecity. We made some friends, whotook us to an after party. Friends forlife. The plan: get the last bus backto Maspalomas at 1am. The reality:have the time of our lives and optinstead for a €80 taxi journey homeat 5am. We didn’t bother to saygoodbye to our new friends. Weknew they’d understand.

Another (very different) day triptook us to the northern municipalityof Valleseco, 80 per cent of which isnature reserve, and where the localcommunity is making a real push toencourage green tourism. Strangely,Valleseco translates as “dry valley”,but this area gets more rainfall thanany other area on the island – so it’sreally green and agricultural. Thevillage shops hold treasures such as

locally produced goat’s cheese, ciderand hand-woven reed baskets (wesaw an elderly gent, clearly a masterat the craft, whip one up in no timeon the street). It’s a great startingpoint for well-mapped hiking trailsand Laguna de Valleseco provedthe perfect spot for a rewardingpicnic lunch.

Our second accommodationstop heralded a full-on retro holidayexperience at the (aptly named)Seaside Palm Beach (from €254 perroom, half-board; 0034 928 721 032;hotel-palm-beach.com), smack in themiddle of Maspalomas. Currentlythe only Design Hotel in the CanaryIslands, it was entirely re-designed in

tHree PLACes tO stAY (OFF tHe BeAten trACK)

1La Hacienda del Buensuceso, left, 20 minutesoutside Las Palmas, is a

restored 16th century bananaplantation with all the low-key luxuries of a boutiquehotel. A favourite with thoseseeking solitude (from €135per room; 0034 928 622 945;haciendabuensuceso.com).

2Casa de Los Musicos,in the countrysideoutside Maspalomas.

The home of renownedclassical conductor JustusFrantz, it’s a favourite withmusical and arty types(from €195 per room, halfboard; 0034 928 142 218;fincajustusfrantz.com).

3Finca Casa de La Virgen,two self-catering countryhouses – one sleeps

six, the other sleeps four –overlooking a breathtakingravine in the beautiful Parquerural de Doramas (€629 forthe smaller house; €860 for thelarger; weekly; 0034 630 074613; casadelavirgen).

GettinG ArOunDBY Bus Blue, turquoise or green Global (0034 902381 110; globalsu.net) buses provide the island witha network of routes, although the service to manyrural areas is not as comprehensive. In Las Palmas,yellow municipal buses provide an efficient citywideservice. BY CAr Car rental is the best way to seeall of the island’s little gems. Choose from all theusual companies at the airport, or go for Cicar inLas Palmas (0034 928 27 72 13; cicar.com) which hascars from around €35 per day. BY BiCYCLe If youdare, take to two wheels – Cycle Gran Canaria inMaspalomas has a range of options, including toursand suggested routes, for mountain or city biking(0034 928 769 508; cyclegrancanaria.com).

Surfing onthe island of

Fuerteventura;the Vallescovalley, which,

strangely,translates as“dry valley”.

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winter sun

Aer Lingus flies from Dublinto Las Palmas, Tues, Thurs andSat, from Cork to Las Palmason Sun; and from Dublin toFuerteventura, Tues and Sat.

2002 with a decidedly modern takeon 1970s glamour. Rooms are deluxeand fun (if a little trippy), featuringsleek bathrooms (not so much as asniff of avocado suite) and balconiesfacing the sea, the pool, the dunes orthe palm grove. At times I felt likewe were at that holiday camp inDirty Dancing, but the key is toembrace what’s on offer at PalmBeach. Don’t take yourself tooseriously and you’ll see that, becauseof the excellent service, deliciousfood and sense of fun with whicheverything is undertaken, it’s actuallyvery cool indeed.

The nearby Playa de Maspalomasis one of the nicest big beaches onthe island. It backs onto the dunes,so feels spacious and sheltered at thesame time. Incidentally, the nudistpart of the beach is the nicest andwhere you’re most likely to find aspot all to yourself (if you dare).The beach stretches all the way toPlaya del Inglés and can also takeyou back to Lopesan Boulevard ElFaro, a newly developed commercialand restaurant area. Though clean,modern and with great ocean views,this area feels a little like an outletvillage – however, Gran Italia doesserves perfect Italian food, for a steal.

So, what did I discover on mysearch for the Cool Canaries? Well,that it’s pretty darned cool, actually.Not in that Russian oligarch,high-design nightclub, Michelinrestaurant, Ibiza way (which is alla bit bleh, anyway, if you ask me).But in that friendly people, deliciousfood, constant sunshine, beautifulscenery, loads-of-chic-little-gems-if-you-know-where-to-look way. Andthat, to me, is infinitely cooler

For more information,see grancanaria.com

ADVentures On FuerteVenturAThe second largest of the Canary Islands(Tenerife is the biggest), Fuerteventurahas historically welcomed fewer visitorsthan Gran Canaria, and so had not enjoyedthe same levels of prosperity. Perhapsthat’s why it has retained more of itsoriginal character. However, since beingmade a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in2009, the right sort of tourism has beengrowing steadily. Good planning laws haverestricted resort sprawl and discerninglovers of the outdoors are visiting intheir droves to experience the barrenexpanse of long-dead volcanoes andunspoiled beaches. stAY At Gran HotelAtlantis Bahia real (from €167 per night,for two people B&B, 0034 902 201 360;atlantisbahiareal.com), the island’s plushestdigs, on the beach in Corralejo. Theviews out to sea and of nearby islands areunsurpassed, rooms are very comfortable(if a little fussy, decor-wise) and the fanciestrestaurant, La Capula de Carles Gaig, getsits name from the two-star Michelin chefwho stands at the helm. It’s a good basefrom which to visit the Corralejo naturereserve and indeed, the whole island,which can be covered by car in a day. Ifyou prefer lower key, higher authenticityaccommodation, Casa Princess Arminda(from €35 per night, for two people B&B,0034 928 878 979; princessarminda.com),

in the 600-year oldvillage of Betancuria,is filled with ruralcharm. Owned bythe same family since

the 1400s, the

estate has been lovingly restored to offerrustic rooms and delicious local food. DiVein at one of over 150 beautiful beaches,and don’t be tempted to stick to the onenearest your hotel. Venturing just a littlebit outside the resorts will reward you withhidden coves, romantic lagoons and milesof deserted golden sand. sotavento isprobably the most impressive, a massiveexpanse of beach on the south-east coast,popular with kiteboarders and windsurfers,but head to the Jandía peninsula for a lessgusty time of it. Visit el Cotillo, a sleepyvillage on the western coast, little touchedby tourism and famed for its pristinelagoons; ecomuseo de la Alcogida (0034928 175 434) in Tefia, a museum depictingthe hidden charms of rural Canarian life;tindaya Volcano, where ancient feetcarvings can still be seen at the summit,put there to ward off evil spirits; LosMolinos interpretation Centre (0034 928164 275) in Tiscamanita, to see traditionalbarley windmills in action;Mirador MorroVelosa, a viewing point designed by CésarManrique to take advantage of panoramicvistas – there’s a restaurant, so settle in andenjoy the scenery. eAt goat, for the fullFuerte experience, or stick to goat’s cheeseif you’re less adventurous. Casa isaitas(double room from €84; 0034 928 161 402;casaisaitas.com), a guesthouse in Pájarathat does excellent Canarian tapas usingorganic local ingredients – good for veggies,a group not well catered for on the island;Bodeguita el Andaluz (0034 676 705 878)in Correlejo serves excellently flavouredmeat and fish, with a great selection ofwines; Los Caracolitos (0034 928 174 242),just south of Caleta de Fuste is popularwith locals, and known to serve some of theisland’s best fish.

For more information, seefuerteventuraturismo.com.

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If you haven’t alreadyheard of aerobatics,you soon will.Emily Hourican getsup, up and away.

Aerobatics. Sounds abit like a new kind ofworkout, somethinginvolving a leotardand lots of leaping. In

fact, this is the term for the kindof showy, ooh-inspiring tricks –loop-the-loop, upside down flying,dives, figures of eight, spins – thatappear at air shows; all the difficult,graceful, balletic moves that keepspectators mesmerised as aerobaticspilots turn and twist their craft tomake seemingly impossible shapesin the sky.

Already a huge draw in the US,where 18-20 million people turn outto airshows every year, aerobaticsis increasingly popular aroundthe rest of the world. At a recentshow in the Dominican Republic,two-and-a-half million peopleattended over three days. Many ofthose would have been particularlykeen to see Rob Holland, a manwho readily folds his six-foot-plusframe into the cockpit of a single-seater and performs and competesat the highest level. He flies forTeam USA, and at the recent WorldAerobatic Championships in Italy,Team USA placed 3rd overall, withRob winning gold in the four-minute freestyle competition. Heheadlines at 25-odd airshows a year,travelling so often around the worldthat, when I meet him in Dublinairport, he’s only been home for sixdays in three months.

So does he consider himself adaredevil? “Not at all,” he repliescourteously. “I don’t like driving

Five to plane-spotloop-the-loop Flying the plane through acomplete vertical circle – easy to do, but hard toachieve perfect roundness, the loop-the-loop ispopular with spectators.tail slideWhere the aircraft goes backwards.snap rolls Performed by stalling one wing ofthe aircraft. The most difficult manoeuvre to controlconsistently, especially outside snap rolls.rolling circles In its most basic form,the plane is rolled four times while completinga 360-degree loop.ruades From the French term, means to tumblethe plane head-over-heels.

TheBeginner’sGuide toAerobatics

fast, I don’t like motorcycles. Idon’t do crazy stuff at all.” Anyonewho has seen him zoom towardsthe ground at tremendous speed,only to turn his plane’s nose uptowards safety at what seems to bethe very last second, might beg todisagree, but Rob is adamant. “Idon’t consider myself a stunt pilot.To me, a stunt is something whereyou’re not quite sure what the resultsare going to be. I know what theresults are going to be. Part of theattraction is the discipline, makingit as safe as you can. Airshows areabout making it look dangerous,” hesmiles. “It’s showmanship.”

The most dangerous partof his job, he insists, is gettingfrom airshow to airshow. “I haveto deal with weather, airspace,dehydration, there’s so much goingon. At a show, you’re very focused.The environment stays the sameand you’re only up there for a few

minutes.” For transatlantic trips, hisplane is carefully taken apart, boxedup and stowed on board a muchlarger aircraft, while Rob himselftravels as a regular customer.Aer Lingus currently sponsorshim, flying him for free between

Irish aerobaticspilot Eddie

Goggins flies lowover the Aviva

Stadium in Dublin.

Flying


appearances; it’s the kind of supportthat makes a huge difference in whatis a stunningly expensive sport.

The motto painted across Rob’ssingle-seater is “Fly it like you stoleit”, a measure of the exuberantattitude he demonstrates towardshis job. “I enjoy all flying but, ifI can get upside down, I’m reallyat home,” he laughs. However,he is also capable of the rigorousperfection necessary for competitionflying. There is a sharp distinctionbetween competitions and airshows.

“In a competition there isfar less showmanship. It’s aboutmanoeuvring the aircraft within avery regimented set of guidelines;

everything has to be perfect andprecise.” So what can one expect tosee at a Rob Holland performancewhen he has the freedom to expressfully his aerobatic abilities? “I likepeople to see stuff they’ve never seenbefore. I’ll fly in loops, sideways,backwards, vertically; anything toreally wow an audience.”

Rather than attracting just theslightly trainspotter-y (or shouldthat be planespotter-y?)-type ofyoung men you might expect,airshows are generally familydays out, with face painting andbouncy castles as standard at most,as well as aircraft displays and achance for kids to chat to pilots.

For many of us, the Red Bull AirRaces series will be the closest we’vecome to the phenomenon so far,but Alan Dwyer, editor of Flying inIreland, describes aerobatics as anincreasingly integral part of localtown festivals. “They started to growin popularity, but with the recessionthat has slowed down; it’s a veryexpensive sport so there has beensome cut back.”

However, the good news is thatIreland may well shortly field itsown aerobatics team, at which stagethe country is certain to go nuts forall things aerobatic and airplane-oriented. Irish involvement has beenlimited up to now, due to a lack ofequipment and pilots prepared tocompete. But Eddie Goggins, DavidBruton and Patrick Williams arepreparing to field a team of threeat the world championships in thesummer of 2013. “By then, we willhave two Sbach 342s under groupownership,” says Eddie Goggins,“and will have flown in enoughqualifiers to compete in the worldchampionships. There’s a lot oflogistics and expense in getting ateam together, and sponsorship isvery hard in recent times, but we’llget there.” World championshipsare held every two years and, in2008, in the US, Eddie came third,something he modestly ascribesto luck as well as ability. With athree-man team, Ireland will becompeting against countries thatcan field teams of seven or eveneight pilots, where only the topthree scores are counted. Clearly,this puts huge pressure on the threepilots, but it is pressure they’re readyfor. “The very windy conditionsin Ireland are good preparation,”Goggins laughs. So keep your eyeson the skies. You just might seesomething astounding.

dates For your 2012 diary …april 18–21 AeroFriedrichshafen – GermanyJune 30 to July 1 RAFWaddington InternationalAirshow – Lincolnshire, UKJuly 21–22 Sunderland Airshow;Sunderland, UK

July 22 The Bray AirSpectacular – Bray,Co Wicklow, Irelandseptember 8–9Northern Ireland DiamondJubilee InternationalAirshow – Portrush, Coleraine,

Northern Ireland.september 29–30MaltaInternational Airshow – Malta.october Fort Worth AllianceAir Show – Texas, US.november 30 to december 2Al Ain Aerobatic Show – UAE

Above, TeamUSA champ, Rob

Holland at thecontrols – “I enjoy

all flying, but, ifI can get upside

down, I’m really athome,” and, left,

Rob in midmanoeuvre.

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BEING THERE


From hipster cool to locally produced food andbuzzing markets, Amanda Cochrane discoversthat London’s East End is where it’s at.

EastLondonThe next big reality show rumoured to hit our screens isThe Only

Way is Dalston, the coolest place in London according to ItalianVogue. True, the self-conscious trendies boasting Morrissey quiffs,ankle-biting skinny jeans and sockless loafers saunter around indroves, but East London also boasts bustling markets – Columbia

Road and Broadway markets are personal favourites – and cutting-edgeboutiques, fun drinking holes and fab restaurants serving up a wonderfulmélange of Turkish, Vietnamese and traditional British fare.

East48HRSIN

EAT AND DRINK AT ...Make sure to book in

advance to dine at theedgy Rochelle Canteen,located in the playgroundof a former Victorianschool (0044 207 729 5677;arnoldandhenderson.com).Devised by MargotHenderson, wife of thebrilliant Fergus Hendersonof the St John, and partnerMelanie Arnold, it’s nosurprise that this hiddengem features nose to taildining as well as a dailyvegetarian option.As the name suggests,

Brawn (0044 207 7295692; brawn.co), runner-uplocal restaurant in TimeOut’s 2011 Eating OutGuide, is not for wimps.From pigs trotters tosmoked sprats, all washeddown with a glass or two ofbio-dynamic natural wine,

it’s a fun spot tocheck out East London’scool hipsters.It’s worth the schlep to

TheWapping Project(0044 207 680 2080;thewappingproject.com), arestaurant-come-art galleryin an old hydraulic powerstation. The in-housebutchery and carefullysourced ingredients meanthe food is excellent butthe beautifully restoredinteriors alone make thejourney worthwhile.Dubliner John Twomey

has teamed up with YoungTurks Isaac McHale andJames Lowe to open apop-up restaurant on thefirst floor of The Ten Bellspub in Spitalfields (00447530 492 986). Open forthree months until midJanuary, typical dishes will

include shoulder of silkadeer, grouse faggots and rawrib of beef with oyster. Theset menu of four coursesplus snacks and a cocktailcosts £39. Yummy soundingBritish/Swedish fusion atfantastic value across theroad from the eclecticshopping delights ofSpitalfields Market, we thinkit’s worth checking out.Hackney trendies flock

to A Little of What YouFancy (0044 207 2750060; alittleofwhatyoufancy.info) tucked awayat the Dalston end of theKingsland Road. Featuringseasonal British dishes andlocally brewed beer byKernel in Southwark, it’san oasis of comfort foodin an area better knownfor Turkish andVietnamese cuisine.

Young Turks, Isaac McHaleand James Lowe team up

with Dubliner John Twomeyat The Ten Bells pop-up,above, and The Wapping

Project, below.

PHOTO

GRAPHBYPER

S-ANDER

SJO

RGEN

SEN

DECEMBER 2011/JANUARY 2012 | 73

FEEL GROOVY AT ….Heady with the perfume

of flowers, the barks of thestall holders and the tunesof a bevvy of brilliantbuskers, Columbia Road’sFlower Market is the placefor a Sunday morning stroll.As well as the fragrantselection of flowers andplants, fashionistas andinteriors lovers will loveFred Bare, Future Vintage(am still lusting after a pairof Miu Miu shoes) andWahWah. For the best hangovercure, squeeze into the

popular Printers andStationers (0044 207 7299496; printersandstationers.co.uk) for a cracking BloodyMary and a damn fineham, cheese andgherkin sandwich.Just around the corner

from Columbia Road, you’llfind theGeffryeMuseum(0044 207 739 9893;geffrye-museum.org.uk)with its inspiring display oftextiles, paintings anddecorative arts from 1600sto the present day. Until

January 8, all the elevenperiod rooms are decoratedin authentic festive style,evoking the rich traditionsof Christmas past.Blazing a trail for

contemporary theatre andnew writing, as well asclassic drama, comedy andmusic, the Arcola Theatrein Dalston (0044 207 5031646; arcolatheatre.com) isone of London’s mostexciting fringe theatres.From Dalston hop on a busto Victoria Park and head

for Hub (0044 207 9239354; hubshop.co.uk) – a bitlike Whistles but anindependent – in BroadwayMarket, for a greatselection of clothes, shoesand accessories of labelssuch as Sessun, Acne,Hudson and Danish cultbrand Won Hundred.

LAY YOURWEARY HEAD AT ….For designer style, head

to Sir Terence Conran’sThe Boundary (0044 207729 1051; theboundary.co.uk), located in an oldVictorian warehouse inShoreditch. With 30 roomsinspired by a host ofcreatives, including EileenGray, Mies van der Roheand Andrée Putman andtwo great restaurants, it iswell placed for exploringthe area’s cool boutiquesand happening nightspots.Rooms from £220.Rubbing shoulders with

the kebab shops and minimarkets of Bethnal Green,the former Town Hall(0044 207 871 0460;townhallhotel.com) was lastyear transformed into yetanother designer hotel. It isa little distance from theEast End’s main attractions,but its Viajante restauranthas delightful fusion dishes.Rooms from £145.

For a touch of coolBritannia – think MissHavishammeets VivienneWestwood – check into theZetter Townhouse inClerkenwell (00 44 207 3244567; thezettertownhouse.com). Featuring 13 brilliantlyeclectic rooms, it’s a strollaway from the markets ofSpitalfields and the delightsof the BritishMuseum. Ithas a fabulously louchecocktail bar, modern bistrostyle food from BrunoLoubet’s kitchen and freeWi-Fi. Rooms from £205.Nearby and just a pig’s

trotter throw fromSmithfields Meat Market,the Fox & Anchor Pub(0044 207 250 1300;foxandanchor.com) servesup fine ale and locallyproduced food. And if youdrink one too many, bookinto one of the six roomsand get up for a restorative,hair-of-the-dog breakfast.

Above from left,inspiring interiors

at the GeffryeMuseum, headto the Arcola

for cutting-edgetheatre or to

the Hub for theslickest labels.

From left, the Foxand Anchor Puba short trot fromSmithfields MeatMarket and TheBoundary, the

hotel of choice fordesign fans.

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin,Shannon, Cork and Belfast toLondon Heathrow daily.

Situated in the delightful village of Terenure in southDublin, architect-designed Bellagio Italian Restaurantserves authentic cuisine from Italy. Fabio Cirello, oneof the owners, is the former Director of Restaurantsat Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel, so you can be assuredof excellent service.To complement the daily specials,signature dishes include calamari and prawn gratin,seafood ravioli and pappardelle with fillet of beef andwild mushroom. Bellagio also serves some of the bestpizzas in town and you can sample cured meat andcheeses from all over Italy.

the soul of Italy in the heart of TerenureBellagio

92Terenure Road North,

Dublin 6W,

Ireland,

Tel: +353 (0)1 492 7625,

www.bellagiorestaurant.ie

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WEB: www.bellucci.ie ■ RESERVATIONS: 01- 668 9422Opening hours: Open 7 days: 12 Midday - 11pm

Set in the heart of Ballsbridge opposite the famous RDS, 2mins from The Four Seasons,The American Embassy and The Aviva Stadium”

22-30 Merrion Road , Balls� idge Dublin

WORLD-CLASS WOOD STONE FIRED OVEN PIZZAS

Traditional Italian qualityFamily Style and Friendly atmosphere

Authentic Italian Flavours by our chef Nino Salveta

Crispy PizzaHomemade Pasta Wide Selection ofItalianWines

FIND US ON FACEBOOK at BEL AND BELLUCCI


It may be the financial capital of Europe, but Frankfurthas much more to offer the visitor than commerce.Irishwoman-turned-native Elizabeth Walsh reveals herfavourite spots. Photographs by Kate Miller.

FRANKFURTnancial capital of Europe, but Frankfurt It may be the fi

FRANKFURT

Right by the Eschersheimer Tower, the luxuriousFLEMINGS DELUXE HOTEL FRANKFURT-CITY housesthe city centre’s only publicly accessible paternoster lift.Fine dining and cocktails with a view of the skyline areavailable in the rooftop restaurant. Rooms from €220per night. (0049 694 272 320; flemings-hotels.com)

The KLEINMARKTHALLE –wonderful for fresh exotic vegetables,spices and sweets. Take the time tosavour a refreshing glass of Germanwine from Rollander Hof on thebalcony upstairs. (Hasengasse 7;kleinmarkthalle.com)

If you fancy a browse and quiet cup of coffee,HUGENDUBEL’s English Bookstore and coffeeshop is a great place to spend some time. Truly,the calmest café in town; the only noise is thecoffee machine as everyone is reading!(Steinweg 12; hugendubel.de)

ECB and the BULL &BEAR outside the Chamber ofCommerce – symbols of Frankfurtas Europe’s financial capital.

The CHINESE GARDEN is anoasis of calm in a walled gardenof the Bethmann Park at thebottom of Bergerstrasse (great forshopping locally in Bornheim) – it’shard to believe one is in the city.Even the rubbish bins have Chinesecalligraphy.

kleinmarkthalle.com)

An Insider’s Guide to

The spirit of Christmasstarts early in Frankfurt withthe CHRISTMAS MARKET

at the Roemer. Try out theFeuerzangenbowle (fire tongue

punch) as an alternative toGlühwein and enjoy Christmascarol concerts by local school

groups. For a personalisedsouvenir or great gift for your

tree back home, order your namein sugar piping on a traditional

gingerbread loveheart and collectit the next day for approx €5.

Right by the Eschersheimer Tower, the luxurious

INSIDER’S GUIDE


My favourite see and be seenlunchtime spot with healthy foodand fancy, non-alcoholic (good forthe middle of the day!) cocktails isWALDEN. For partygoers, there is adisco upstairs on Friday and Saturdaynights. (Kleiner Hirschgraben 7;walden-frankfurt.com)

My favourite see and be seen My favourite see and be seen

DAUTH SCHNEIDER isone of Old Sachsenhausen’smany traditional Apfelwein(apple wine) pubs (thebenches are shiny fromyears of being sat on) witha delicious menu of localspecialities preparedby chef and proprietorPaul O’Sullivan from CoWaterford. (Neuer Wall 5-7;0049 6961 3533; dauth-schneider.de)

Steeped in tradition, cosy and bijouinside, CAFÉ WACKER allows you to pickup a packet of freshly ground, roastedspecial or sit down with a creamy lattemacchiato and a thick wedge of Küchen.The scent of coffee and chocolate isoverpowering. (Mittelweg 47; wackers-kaffee.de)

The beautifully renovated ALTE OPER, theopera house at the end of the Fressgasse, hasa great cultural programme. (alteoper.de)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin toFrankfurt daily.

MORE ABOUT ELIZABETHElizabeth Walsh, originally from Dublin, has lived in Frankfurt forover 20 years. She is a former president of the Frankfurt Ski Club(fscev.org) where she met her Irish husband who shares her passionfor skiing. She thinks Frankfurt is a great city to live in and raise afamily. “Despite its big name, Frankfurt is actually a fabulous smallcity with an international population and great leisure and relaxationopportunities, no more than 20 bicycle minutes away.” Her friendKate Miller, who photographed her wedding, also did the photosfor this article and enjoys taking portraits of her little boy, Conor(katemillerphoto.com).


MORE ABOUT ELIZABETHElizabeth Walshover 20 years. She is a former president of the Frankfurt Ski Club (fscev.orgfor skiing. She thinks Frankfurt is a great city to live in and raise a family. “Despite its big name, Frankfurt is actually a fabulous small

and great leisure and relaxation population with an international cityopportunities, no more than 20 bicycle minutes away.” Her friend Kate Millerfor this article and enjoys taking portraits of her little boy, Conor (katemillerphoto.com

In Frankfurt’s latestand greatest shoppingcentre on the Zeil (apedestrian zone withthe highest turnover inGermany), MYZEIL haseverything from a Legoflagship store to gourmetsushi, high street anddesigner brands, anda play centre for littlevisitors. (myzeil.de)

This tiny street –BRUECKENSTRASSEin Sachsenhausen – ishome to boutiquesshowcasing avant-gardedesigner wear. Checkout VENEZ-Y-VOIR fortrendy shoes you won’tget at home.

Catch the exhibition of Icelandicartist Erró’s portraits and landscapes atthe SCHIRN KUNSTHALLE gallery inRoemer. (ends January 8; 0049 692998 820; schirn.de)

Steeped in tradition, cosy and bijou inside, CAFÉ WACKER

Steeped in tradition, cosy and bijou CAFÉ WACKER allows you to pick

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Opening Times:Open all year round 6 days per week. Closed on Tuesdays.

The Rylston fully refurbished Fulham Pub“Local, Good Food, Good Quality, Good Value”

The Pub as most Irish know is synonymous with warm hospitality, reputation for great quality food and worth a visit. The Rylston is a friendly, neighbourhood Gastro Pub on Fulham’s main Lillie Road, close to West Brompton tube and only a short walk from Fulham Broadway & Chelsea FC.

Our concept is simple “Local, good food, good quality, good value”.

The Rylston is lively and upbeat but in a chilled out, kick back with a pint and stay for a while kind of way. It’s clean and crisp, with a gallery of contemporary photography on the walls and huge decked garden to the rear, offering endless hours of delightful summer al fresco drinking and dining. A wood fired oven is put to good use by The Rylston’s chef, his handmade pizzas a legendary favourite from the Modern European menu. The Rylston has your every need pretty well covered. Our warm and friendly staff will ensure a ‘Céad míle fáilte romhat’ when you visit so make sure and call in to say hello. Rath De’ Ort

197 Lillie Road, London, SW6 7LWTel: 0207 381 0910. E-Mail: [email protected]

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When I was asked to write a textthat would commemoratethe 75th anniversary of AerLingus’s first flight, I began to

think about Ireland in May 1936, the monthin which that inaugural journey took place.The country of my grandparents’ youth wasa poor one, only recently founded, facingimmense challenges, yet its cultural traditionshad survived and there was optimism thatthis small new democracy might one day be aplace of freedoms. In our old literature, in ourballads and songs, in our poetry and legends,the imagery of flight appeared with strikingfrequency; a touching testament to the hopesof an island people who, as Yeats said, “havegone about the world like wind”.

It struck me as remarkable that a nationwhich not very long previously had beenengaged in violent conflict and Civil Warhad progressed so quickly to establishingan airline. It also seemed to me that the

story of Aer Lingus closely tracked thestory of independent Ireland, sometimes incounterpoint, sometimes in parallel. We havelong been a migrant people – we still are, today– and every flight is an anthology, a collectionof stories, some happy, some poignant, allour own. So, rather than write a fact-ladenarticle studded with statistics and the namesof aircraft, I asked if I could approach thecommemorative piece as a series of verse-lyrics that might attempt to record the uniqueand indefinable aura that Irish people feelAer Lingus has. “Airspace” was the result. Iwrote it between Christmas 2010 and Januaryof 2011, a month in which severe snow cut usoff from the world for a while. In a small way,that separation reminded me of the longingwe feel for other lands, other dreams, of theconnections that Aer Lingus has existed toserve. I hope you enjoy reading the piece.

Joseph O’Connor

AirspaceIt’s 75 years since Aer Lingus’s first flight took to the air. To celebrate, authorJosephO’Connor was asked to write a commemorative piece. Here, wepublish chapters three, four and five, along with their author’s introduction.

IIIBeautiful in Irish,the names of the

birdsNach álainn iad, ainmneacha na néan inGaeilge,

Cruidín: the Kingfisher. Dreoilín: the Wren.Words of mellifluous music and colour.The Blackbird: An Lon Dubh. The Eagle:An Iolar.

Gabhlán Alpach: the Alpine Swift.Rí Rua: the Chaffinch. Druid: the Starling.The Night Heron: Corr Oíche.The Kestrel: Pocaire Gaoithe.The Golden Plover: Feadóg Buí.The Cream-coloured Courser: Rásaí Bánbhuí

Word-horde. Our perchDown all the long centuriesWhen noun and song and airWere soared with.We glided our syllables,Like children trading streamers –Spideog, the Robin, Spíoróg, theSparrowhawk,

Buíog, the Yellowhammer, Fuiseog, the Sky-lark.

And vowels were a flock of high-flowndelights

Saying ‘Rise up your song.Aspire to the heights.’

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Joseph o’connor

Years pass like seabirdsMigrating the cloudsInto old exultation,For doesn’t time fly?Until north in the night,A flight ekes a way,To Gander, NewfoundlandTerritory of the whale,Over wild black seas where the great linerperished,

Its Belfast turrets and ice-cracked hull,Sunk in the ocean like memoriesOf a song,Its half-forgotten similes.

Where Lagan streams sing lullabiesThere blows a lily fair.The twilight gleam is in her eyesThe night is on her hair

Control-towers purr.Radar sweeps the night,Blipping the circumferenceOf history and loss,Making for the harbourTo which multitudes flewFrom the latitudes of hunger and want.So many sailed below you,The lost, silent millions,Who bore your nameOr the names of your neighbours,Voyaging far from a hungry landTo Brooklyn, Philadelphia,Gros-Isle, New Orleans.Quebec, Saint Lawrence,Baton Rouge, Massachusetts,Mobile, Alabama and Galveston, Texas,A clod of Galway earth in their pockets.

There on the cricket’s singing stone,She stirs the bogwood fire,And hums in soft, sweet undertonesThe song of heart’s desire

Perhaps they looked upFrom the decks of starvation,Face-whipped, stungBy Atlantic gale,Facing like figureheads into the sleet,And glimpsed in the starlightA ghost from the future:Sea-eagle of metalBreasting through the night,A tricolour crest on its tail-fin.

The Lockheed ConstellationHeavily turns.Idlewild below you,Gleaming like a promiseOf all that is possible,All we have been,And the better, braver story that is yet before usIf only we have courage to see the horizonAnd find its parallel in our hearts.Saint Patrick, keep us safe,Saint Bridget, break our fall,Saint Kevin of the lakesAnd Saint Ronan, guard us all.And fly me to the moon,Saint Francis of Sinatra,Up here, we are close to the stars of Old Glory.We’ll be waltzing down Broadway tonight.

IVFirst flight to America – 28 April, 1958

Green for lost homelands,White for the clouds,Gold for a wedding ringPawned for the passageTo newfound meadowsOr the Five Point slumOr the Hell’s Kitchen sweatshop,Or the groves of Dakota,Or the coalfields of Pennsylvania,Or Saint Paul, Minnesota,Or the halls of the White House inWashington.

O Come to the landWhere we will be happyDon’t be afraidOf the storm or the seaFor it’s when we get overWe soon shall discoverThat place is the homelandOf Sweet Liberty.


VJohnny, I hardly knew you

The shadow of an aircraft.It changed your life.Revealed the heart of home where you truly belong.

Irish Coffee at Shannon.Your people home from Australia.Exotics descended from the vaults of Heaven,Wild colonial boys.

Your features in their faces,But with different accents,Currencies, slangs you did not understand,And suntans beyond imagining.

The long black shadow of a 747Darkens the waters of Galway Bay.Wild swans and moorhensAscending in formationFrom lines dreamed out by William YeatsWho spread the grey wing on every tideAnd rhymed a people into flight.Blackbirds clatterFrom a thicket of fernsBy the broken wallNear the farmyard gates.

Every flight a storybook.A collection of dramas.Anthology of airspace.The Christmas back at home.When your sister in Glasgow had the baby andneeded you.

When your father got sick.When your mother grew old.When you fancied the girl who was livingoverseas

(But flew back home, tail between your knees),The stag, the hen, the match, the meeting,The flight to catch was always waiting.The Camden Town bedsit, flatmates gone out,Alone with your plastic bag of duty-free,And your lips still rawFrom mouths you never kissed,And the memory of songs from home.

When you went away for work, having no otherchoice,

When you missed your neighbours’ ironies,Your brother’s laughing voice,And came home that Easter Saturday,Though you couldn’t afford it,And that night you fell in love.

You looked at one anotherAcross the crowded bar.Horslips on the jukeboxSingingThe Man Who Built AmericaOr King of the FairiesOr the High Irish Reel,Or Johnny, I Hardly Knew You.

You looked, and you knew.It was simple as the rain.As the parting of clouds,As the lifting of a fogbank,And a jumbo-jet gave a roar in your heart,And your future came in to land.

And ten thousand times, in the decades tocome,

As your infant daughter grew,As your son held your hand,As you fought and made up,As you aged into acceptances,You thanked the God of Angels,That you took that flight home,On the night you could barely afford to.

A wedding. A honeymoon.A break with the kids.The Munster final. A pilgrimage to Lourdes.A trip to see grandchildren in Luton or Leeds.Or in Boston, or Queens, New York.

The drama of flyingWhirred propellers in the heart.You’d board the flight earlyTo soak it all in.Like starring in a film,The glamour of Departures.The beef or the salmon?Who’d come to meet you?A week of the sights and the battles withcurrency,

Jetlag and laughter in tourist cafés.Embraces at the airport to say goodbye.You’d try to smile. You’d want to cry.

The sky looks down. The sea reflects.The airspace divides. But it also connects.

The shadow of an aircraft.It changed your life.Revealed the heart of home where you trulybelong.

What is an airline? Sheet music, only.It is always the traveller who sings the song.

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Horslips - Live At The Waterfront Various Artists - A Stór Mo Chroí

Frank Kelly - The Best Of Frank KellyVarious Artists - Ar StaitseSecret Garden - Winter Poem

CARA FINAL ADVERT 16/11/2011 15:33 Page 1

Welcome Aboard..........................84Aer Lingus News ............................86Entertainment .................................88Wellbeing ..........................................94Route Maps ......................................95InFlight

For your guide to our new and excitingOn Demand movies and televisionprogrammes, including The Borgias(pictured), turn to page 88.


For your comfortand safetyPlease pay attention while the cabincrew demonstrate the use of the safetyequipment before take-off. Also, makesure to read the safety instruction card,which is in the seat pocket in front of you.

Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “FastenSeat Belts” sign is switched on. Werecommend that you keep your seat beltloosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright positionduring take-off and landing, but can bereclined by pressing the large button inthe armrest. Other buttons (in the armrestor above your head, depending on theaircraft) may be used to operate yourreading light and air vent, or to call a cabinattendant.

Portable electronic equipmentPortable electronic equipmentmay interferewith aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation.With safety as our priority, we ask you topay particular attention to the following:

Mobile phones and all other personalelectronic equipmentmust beswitched off and stowed safelyas soon as the aircraft doors areclosed. It is not permissible to useany electronic device to transmitor receive data during the flight,however devices equippedwith flightmode, or the equivalent, may beused. Flight mode should be selectedbefore the device is switched off.

✔ DevicesPermitteDatanytime:Devices powered

bymicro battery cells and/or by solarcells; hearing aids (including digital

devices); pagers (receivers only);heart pacemakers.

● DevicesPermitteD inflightbutnotDuring

taxi/take-off/initialclimb/aPProachlanDing: Laptopswith CDROMorDVDdrive, palmtoporganisers, handheld calculatorswithout printers, portable audioequipment (egWalkman, CD-player,Mini-disk player, iPod andMP3-player). For the comfort of otherpassengers, audio devices shouldbe usedwith a headset. Computergames (egGameboy, NintendoDS).

Video cameras/recorders, digitalcameras, GPS handheld receivers,electric shavers, electronic toys.Bluetooth devices withmobilephones in “Flight” mode, deviceswith “Blackberry” technology with“Flight”/Flight Safe” mode selected,Laptops, PDAswith built-inWi-Fi with“WirelessOff” setting selected.

✘ Devices ProhibiteDatall times:Devices

transmitting radio frequencyintentionally such as walkie-talkies,remote controlled toys; wirelesscomputer equipment (eg mouse,

keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CDwriters andMini-disk Recordersin the recording mode; digitalcamcorders when using CDwritefacility; portable stereo sets; pocketradios (AM/ FM); TV receivers;telemetric equipment; peripheraldevices for handheld computergames (eg supplementary powerpacks connected by cable); wirelessLAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-inWLAN (eg Centrino) may be usedduring flight, provided theWLANoption is turned off and subject tothe restrictions associated with theuse of laptops detailed above.

Ar mhaithe de dochompord agus ledo shábháilteacht,iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt,ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús naheililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas anfearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ortan cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpócaan tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamhchomh maith.

Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheithceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingtheagus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha“Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh.Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheithleathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór doshuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach.Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochána chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe móratá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann(ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, agbrath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaintas an solas léitheoireachta nó as anngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall denfhoireann cábáin.

aer lingus is delighted towelcomeyouonboard

TááthasarAerLingus fáilte ar borda chur romhat

WelcomeAboard


Fearas iniompartha leictreonachIs féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteachar threalamhaneitleáin, rudad’fhéadfadhbheith contúirteach.Agus sábháilteachtmarphríomhchúramagAerLingus, iarraimidort aird sabhreis a thabhairt ar anmír seoa leanas:

Caithfear gach guthán póca agusgach fearas pearsanta leictreonacha mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaiscea luaithe agus a dhúntar doirsean eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid abhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bithchun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadhi rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach,áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”,nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid.Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” aroghnú sula múchtar an uirlis.

✔ GLéAsAnnA A bhFuILceAdAIThe I GcónAí:

Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid asmicreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill;cluaisíní chúnta (gléasannadigiteach san áireamh; glaoirí(gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

● GLéAsAnnAATáceAdAIThe I rITh

nAheITILTe,AchnAchbhFuILceAdAITheLeLInndoneITLeánbheIThAGGLuAIseAchTArTALAmh/AGéIrídeThALAmh/AGTAbhAIrTFAoIndreAPAdhTosAIGh/AGdírIúArThuIrLInGT/AGTuIrLInGT:Ríomhairí glúine letiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM)nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD).Eagraithe pearsanta boise.Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri.Clostrealamh iniompartha (msWalkman, seinnteoir CD , seinnteoirMini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP 3). Armhaithe le compord na bpaisinéirieile, níor choir na gléasanna seo aúsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí

ríomhaire (m.s. Gameboy). Níl ceadgaireas forimeallach a úsáid lecluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith(m.s. paca forlíontach cumhachta acheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraíagus fístaifeadáin, trealamhdigiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraídigiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chórassuite domhanda (GPS). Rásúirleicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha(seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe).Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomharle gutháin phóca agus iad i “modheitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhmas teicneolaíocht “Blackberry”agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhódeitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairíglúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) leWi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidiómúchta” roghnaithe orthu.

✘ GLéAsAnnAAbhFuILcoscIomLánorThu:Gléasanna

a tharchuireann minicíocht raidiód’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaínchianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeánale feadáin ga-chatadóideacha.Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (m.s.luch).PrintéiríPC.SchríbhneoiriDVD,CDagus taifeadáinMini-diskatá samhodhtaifeadta.Ceamthaifeadáindigiteachaagus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí.Steiréónna iniompartha.Raidiónnapóca(AM/FM).Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamhteiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearasLANgansreang(WLAN)aúsáid. Is féidirríomhairí glúineabhfuilWLANionsuiteiontu(m.sCentrino)aúsáídlelinnnaheitiltear choinníoll go bhfuilWLANcurthaasagus faoi réir na srianta abhaineann lehúsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

the cabin crew will do everything possible toensure that you enjoy your flight, so please don’thesitate to ask them for assistance or advice

Tá an fhoireann cábáin anseo le cinntiú go mbaineanntú taitneamh as do thuras, mar sin ná bíodh leisce ortaon chabhair nó comhairle a iarraidh orthu.

Food and bar serviceA new range of food items – includingsandwiches, confectionery and a rangeof snacks – is available for sale on all AerLingus scheduled services to and fromthe UK and Europe. A charge applies forall drinks on UK and European flightsin Economy class. On long haul flights,there is a charge in Economy class foralcoholic drinks, while soft drinks arecomplimentary. Details of all itemsavailable for purchase are contained inan information leaflet, which is in all seatpockets.

news, musicand moviesOn long haul flights, we offer you anextensive programme of viewing andlistening options. For full details, turntowards the back of this magazine.

We hope you have a comfortable andpleasant flight. thank you for choosingto fly with aer lingus.

seirbhís bia agus beáirTá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísísceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastaiar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip.Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agusrogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íocas gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar naheitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tácostas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúlago fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoigach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bordfoilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca antsuíocháin os do chomhair.

nuacht, ceolagus scannáinAr eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathanféachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Lehagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadhna hirise seo.

Tá suil againn go mbíonn turascompordach taitneamhach agat agusgo raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAerLingus.

smokingIn line with Irishgovernmentregulations,

Aer Lingus has ano-smoking policyonboard its flights.Smoking is notpermitted in anypart of the cabin

at any time.

TobAcDe réir rialacháin

Rialtas na hÉireann,tá polasai i réim ar

eitiltí Aer Lingus nachgceadaítear tobaca chaitheamh. Ní

cheadaítear d’aonduinetobac a chaitheamh inaon chuid den eitleán

ag aon am.


Sometimes it’s just easier with a car – so whateveryou need to see or do this winter, visiting friendsor family, getting to the best ski runs quickly orheading for some winter sun, think Hertz for whatwill always be a better journey.And for this winter, we have locked in some

great deals across Europe, the US and Canadaon people carriers to fit all the family from ourfun class, such as the Audi A1 and Fiat 500, toour Prestige collection, all with the assurance ofdriving the best cars with unrivalled service andcare both during and after your rental.To book these great car-hire rates and to

include the award winning “NeverLost” GPSsystem, simply log onto aerlingus.com and clickon the Hertz icon. Alternatively, call our 24hrreservation line on +353 1 813 3844.If you are already travelling and would like to get

a great discount on car hire simply call to the Hertzdesk on arrival and show your boarding card.

“Best Airline” for Aer LingusFor the second year in a row, Aer Lingus is celebrating retaining the award for“Best Airline to Europe ex. Belfast” at the Northern Ireland Travel and TourismAwards 2011, staged at the Slieve Donard Resort and Spa, in October.

This brings to nine the number of awards Aer Lingus has won during the pastyear, including “Best Short-haul Airline” in the Irish Travel Trade Awards 2011 andfifth overall in “Best Economy Airline” category by Guardian andObserver readersand first of the European-based carriers in this category.

Aer Lingus Director of Communications, Declan Kearney said: “We aredelighted that our service to Europe has been once again recognised as the bestof the best. We’ve been in Belfast for almost four years now, and our presencecontinues to go from strength to strength. Travellers here are enjoying our lowfares and great service, and of course the variety of routes on offer.”

As part of its new winter schedule, Aer Lingus hasannounced that it will run extra flights between Dublinand London Gatwick. From October 30, the airline willprovide six flights per day between the two airports, anincrease from the four flights on offer last winter.

The new 06.40 flight will be the first departure by anyairline from Dublin to London Gatwick and in turn, thefirst morning departure from Gatwick at 06.50 will alsobe the first by any airline from London Gatwick to Dublin.An extra evening flight in both directions will add more

choice for business commuters and those travelling atpeak times. There will also be a lunchtime flight at 12.55in addition to the existing 10.50 and 14.50 departures.The new schedule increases the number of Aer Lingusflights between Dublin and London to 18 per day, agreater frequency than any other airline and increasesAer Lingus’s capacity for passengers on this service bymore than 50 per cent.

AERLINGUSANNOUNCESEXTRAFLIGHTSTOLONDONGATWICKAIRPORT

hoteldealsThinking of

taking a break thiswinter?

Look no furtherthan aerlingus.comfor all your flightsand hotel needs.

Whether it’s acity break to NewYork, a relaxingstay by the beachfor some wintersun or skiingin the Alps, wehave hotels tosuit all budgets,from five-star

deluxe to budgetaccommodation.

With more than140,000 hotelsworldwide, youwill surely find

your perfect hotelor flight + hotel

package.

Log ontoaerlingus.com andclick on our Hotelsor Flights + Hotelsicons to browse forthe best offers.

AerLingusNews

Aer Lingus pictured receiving their award with Eamonn Holmes.

We’ve got your TravelInsurance all wrapped up!

Whether travelling to Europe orbeyond, it’s essential you’re protectedin case the unexpected happens.

We make it easy to arrange the travelinsurance you and your family need foryour holiday.

You can simply include it as an option to your online flight booking.Travelling regularly? Our Annual multi-trip policy may suit you better.Terms and conditions apply.

Check it out next time you visit www.aerlingus.com

INSURANCE

samsunggalaxytabcomestoaerlingus loungeThis December, AerLingus introduces thenew SamsungGalaxy Tabto our Dublin and LondonHeathrow Gold CircleLounges. There will be ninetablets in each lounge forpassengers to enjoy. As wealready provide free Wi-Fiin both locations, our GoldCircle, Business Class andFlex Fare passengers will beable to surf the net, checkon emails or confirm theirflight information via the AerLingus app that is pre-loaded

on the tab. Units will beavailable on request fromthe lounge reception desk.

The Aer Lingus GoldCircle lounge is open to:Business Class passengers,Gold Circle Members andpassengers holding Flex Faretickets. A lounge pass canbe purchased by Aer Linguspassengers on a flight byflight basis for €25 at thereception desk in thelounge or in the TravelEssentials section onlineat aerlingus.com.


4518.290x220.SamsungCaraAdAW_Layout 1 07/11/2011 11:46 Page 1

THE GUARDComedy/ Thriller (R)96 minutes

The Guard is a comedy-thriller starringBrendan Gleeson as an unorthodoxIrish policeman who joins forces witha straitlaced FBI agent, played by DonCheadle, to take on an international drug-smuggling gang. Irish film, The Guard, wasa box-office smash with a weekend grossof over €0.5 million, knocking Bridesmaidsfrom the coveted No 1 position. This is afantastic result for an Irish film comparableto the success ofMichael Collins and InBruges.

STARS Brendan Gleeson, Don Cheadle,Liam Cunningham, Mark StrongDiREcToR John Michael McDonagh

MoviesFLIGHTS TO THE USA

THE HELPDrama (PG 13)146 minutes

The #1 New York Times bestseller byKathryn Stockett comes to vivid lifethrough the powerful performances of aphenomenal ensemble cast. Led by EmmaStone and Viola Davis, The Help is aninspirational, courageous and empoweringstory about very different, extraordinarywomen in the 1960s southern states ofAmerica who build an unlikely friendshiparound a secret writing project – one thatbreaks society’s rules and puts them all atrisk. The Help is a timeless, universal andtriumphant story about the ability to createchange.

STARS ViolaDavis, EmmaStone, Sissy SpacekDiREcToR Tate Taylor

More Movies On Demand: HARRy PoTTER 7bEmma Watson HoRRibLE boSSESJennifer Aniston FinAL DESTinATion 5Nicholas D’ Agosto RiSE oF THE PLAnET oFTHE APESJames Franco THE conSPiRAToRJames McAvoy EvERyTHinGmUST GoWill Ferrell PAGE onE: inSiDE THEnEwyoRk TimES THE cHAnGE-UP

Ryan Reynolds FLy PAPERPatrick Dempsey THE PERFEcT GAmEJansen Panettiere SHELTERJulianne Moore SPy kiDS 4Jessica Alba Scooby DooFrank Wekler Toy SToRy 3Tom Hanks mickEy’S mAGicALcHRiSTmASJodi Benson

conTAGionAction/ Sci-Fi/ Thriller (PG 13)106 minutes

Contagion follows the rapid progress of alethal airborne virus that kills within days.As the fast-moving epidemic grows, theworldwidemedical community races to find acure and control the panic that spreads fasterthan the virus itself. At the same time, ordinarypeople struggle to survive in a societycoming apart. This fascinating thriller followsseveral interacting plotlines, with no singleprotagonist, over the course of several weeksfrom the initial outbreak and attempts tocontain it, to panic and decay of social order,and, finally, to the introduction of a vaccine.

STARS Kate Winslet, Marion Cotillard,Matt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth PaltrowDiREcToR Steven Soderbergh

The Help

Contagion

The Guard

From Dublin to Boston, Chicago, New York and Orlando; from Shannon to Boston and New York; fromMadrid toWashington.Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.


inFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT

More Movies On Demand: SEnSATionDomhnall Gleeson LARRy cRownETom Hanks ATTAck THE bLockJodie Whittaker AnoTHER EARTHBrit Marling cHASinGmADoFFBernie Madoff TRESPASSNicole Kidman A bETTER LiFEDemián Bichir HELEnAshley Judd

bART GoT A RoomWilliam H. Macy STAy cooLWinona Ryder TERRiJohn C. Reilly A cinDERELLA SToRy:oncE UPon A SonGLucy HalewinniE THE PooHJohn Cleese THE PRincESS AnD THEFRoGAnika Noni Rose UPEdward Asner

MoviesFLIGHTS FROM THE USA

cRAZy STUPiD LovEComedy (PG 13)115 minutes

Steve Carell and Ryan Gosling lead anall-star cast inCrazy, Stupid, Love. Forty-something straight-laced Cal Weaver is livingthe suburban dream. When he learns that hiswife has cheated on him and wants a divorce,his “perfect” life quickly unravels.Cal is taken on as the wingman and protégéto the handsome Jacob Palmer and his eyesare opened to many new ventures. DespiteCal’s makeover, the one thing that can’t bemade over is his heart.

STARS Steve Carell, Ryan Gosling,Julianne Moore, Emma StoneDiREcToR Glenn Ficarra, John Requa

GLEE3D:CONCERTMOVIEDocumentary (PG)85 minutes

Starring 14 members of the Emmy andGolden Globe Award-winning televisionshow’s cast and shot live during thesummer concerts, the movie will capturethe unique concert experience along withspecial moments involving the charactersthemselves. GLEE is the multi-generationalphenomenon TV show that has inspiredmillions to embrace their inner-Gleek andthis movie allows Glee fans to experiencethe characters, music and magic in a wholenew way, via the immersive magic of amotion picture theatrical event.

STARS Lea Michele, Amber Riley,Chris Colfer, Kevin McHaleDiREcToR Kevin Tancharoen

COWBOY AND ALIENSAction, Sci-Fi,Thriller (PG 13)118 minutes

Daniel Craig and Harrison Ford star inthis action-packed, sci-fi-western fromthe director of Iron Man. A stranger(Craig) stumbles into the desert town ofAbsolution with no memory of his past anda mysterious, futuristic shackle around hiswrist. With the help of mysterious beautyElla (Wilde) and the iron-fisted ColonelDolarhyde (Ford), he finds himself leadingan unlikely posse of cowboys, outlawsand Apache warriors to fight a commonenemy from beyond this world in an epicshowdown for survival.

STARS Harrison Ford, Daniel Craig,Olivia WildeDiREcToR Jon Favreau

Cowboys andAliens

Crazy Stupid Love

Glee 3D

From Boston, Chicago, New York and Orland to Dublin; from New York and Boston to Shannon; fromWashington to Madrid.Movies available are listed below. All movie details and ratings can be accessed through your personal screen.


On Demand TV allows you to control yourTV content and choose from the very latestcomedy and drama TV. New comEDyHiGHLiGHTS includemodern Family,30 Rock, bored To Death, Eastboundand Down, Family Guy and nurse Jackie.Classic Comedy takes in Gavin and Stacey,Father Ted, cheers and Sex and Thecity. DRAmA features the compelling Thecrimson and thewhite Petal and twoepisodes of in Treatment starring GoldenGlobe award-winner Gabriel Byrne in theacclaimed HBO series. Also available is anepisode of the new series of Hawaii Five-oand fast-paced drama nciS LA.It’s time to fasten your seat belts for theeighth season of Entourage! The HBOEmmy and Golden Globe award-winning hit

TelevisionON DEMAND

comedy is executive produced byMark Wahlberg. Available are the firsteight episodes of Season 8. Game ofThrones is another HBO triumph andavailable On-Demand is the final eightepisodes (Season 1). Game of Throneswas described by Newsday as “TheBest-Written TV Show of the Year”.Don’t miss the final six episodes of theEmmy-winning mini-series The kennedys.Chronicling the lives of the famous USfamily it features a stellar cast includingGreg Kinner, Katie Holmes, Barry Pepperand TomWilkinson.Available On-Demand is eight episodesfrom Season 1 of The borgias, this newseries was created and produced byrenowned Irish director Neil Jordan to

much critical acclaim.This first-class mixof Drama TV alsotakes in the finalfive episodes fromSeason 1 of bluebloods starringTom Selleck.TEEnS onboardcan enjoy Glee,Hannah montanaand Jonas. kids canlook forward to ben10: Ultimate Alien,Phineas and Ferb,The Amazing worldof Gumball andbe buzz.

LiFESTyLE AnDmUSic HiGHLiGHTSinclude Top Gear USA, HSbcGolfingworld,chic intl, Later with Jools Holland,E! Special on katy Perry, Lady GagaPresents the monster ball Tour, Amywinehouse other voices Special, RickStein’s Spain, Jamie’s best Ever christmasandworld business Special Edition.DocUmEnTARy HiGHLiGHTS take inFrozen Planet, inside the Actors Studio,megafactories, Evolutions: Thewalkingwhale and a biography on kurt cobain.

Entourage

Game of Thrones

Blue Bloods


in TempoJoin Paul Herriott forthe usual broad blend ofclassical music, includingfull works and his CD of theWeek. In Tempo featuresclassical music by Bach,Shostakovich, Smetana,Dvorak and more. Thefeatured CD stars Germansoprano Juliane Banseand our Coffee Concerthighlights the RTE NSOwith soloist Gavan Ring andconductor Gavin Maloney.

Jazz AlleyTake a stroll down JazzAlley with Donald Helmeof RTE lyric fm (96-99fm).This featured show is aspecial tribute to GeorgeShearing, the British-born pianist who diedon February 14th 2011.Donald Helme presentsan hour of his music intribute to one of the all-time jazz greats.

RadioON DEMAND

barry DunneBarry Dunneplays three hoursof Dublin’s BestMusic Mix tokick off yourworkday on 98FMMonday-Friday

from 10am-1pm. You can hearanything from chart toppers likeJessie J and Bruno Mars to classicslike U2 and Bananarama.

98Fm’s classic HitsOn 98FM’sClassic Hits withDarragh O’Dea,weeknights from7pm to 9pm,you will heareverything from

David Bowie, Eric Clapton, ELO,Howard Jones, Hall and Oates,Simple Minds, U2, Simply Red, Toto,Bruce Springsteen, Joe Jackson,Lionel Ritchie and loads more!

cooper’s collectionSteven Cooperon 98FM bringsyou the biggestdance floor fillersevery Saturdaynight with sixhours of remixed

chart toppers and the biggestdance-floor fillers. Steven Cooperpresents his weekday show on98FM from 1pm to 4pm, Mondayto Friday, and Coopers ClubCollection on Saturday nightsfrom 6pm to Midnight.

The big 10The Big 10 on98FM featuresten songs witha connection.Tune into thiscountdown everySunday morning

at 10am as we count down The Big10. Each week a different set ofsongs feature, all with a differentconnection such as the biggestIrish acts, the biggest comebacksin music and the biggest femaleartists of all time.

AERGuitarMarty Miller is onair weekdays from2pm on Dublin’sRadio Nova100FM playingseriously addictivemusic and havinga lot of CRAICalong the way.Tune into AERGuitar – Guitar-based music, whileyou’re in the air.

clear forTake-offYou’re cleared fortake-off with PatCourtenay from RadioNova 100FM. Tuneinto Pat Courtenayevery morning 6 until10am Monday toFriday. Then put downyour refreshment trayfor Nova BreakfastReheated everySaturday from 8until 10am.

Non-Stop 80sDee Woods from Dublin’sRadio Nova 100FM is on ajourney of Non-Stop 80s.Remember the decade thatgave us stilettos, shoulderpads and leg warmers? DeeWoods takes a nostalgic lookback at the good stuff from the80s: the rock! Let Dee takeyou back to the good old dayswith classics from icons likeDavid Bowie, Steely Dan andPhil Collins on Non-Stop 80s.

blue of the nightBlue of the Night connectsdifferent musical landscapesand is presented by CarlCorcoran fromMonday toThursday on RTE lyric fm(96-99fm). There’s a worldof sounds on Blue of theNight – variety, scope andjoy in the endless richness ofcenturies of music make theBlue of the Night the bestlate-night radio in the land.

Lyric Fm classicsRTÉ lyric fm is the onlyrecording label forclassical music in Irelandand showcases a wealth ofIrish musical talent. Ouraim is to promote classicalmusic, Irish musiciansand composers at homeand abroad by creating acommercially available,quality record of howmuch incredible musicis being made in thiscountry.

FitzpatrickHotelsThis is a contemporaryeasy-listening collectionof songs from both sidesof the Atlantic, broughtto you compliments ofThe Fitzpatrick HotelGroup USA. With 2hotels in downtownManhattan, GrandCentral and FitzpatrickManhattan, Fitzpatrick’sis the place to stay inNYC.



céilíHouseCéilí House isIrish traditionalmusic and songfrom some of thecountry’s finestperformers. Thisshow comes fromthe Conservatoryof Music and Dramain Rathmines,Dublin featuringTraditional MusicEnsemble andtutors.

The RollingwaveThe Rolling Wave isa prize-winning RTÉRadio documentaryby Peter Brownetelling the amazingstory of AndreasRogge, who madehis way from EastGermany and aterm of politicalimprisonment tobecome a topclass Uilleann pipemaker.

Documentaryon oneThe multi award-winning radiodocumentarystrand from RTÉRadio 1 is currentlythe most successfuldocumentary unitin the world, tellingstories about reallife in Ireland andabroad.

Risin’TimeShay Byrne’s Risin’Time eases RTÉRadio 1 listenersinto the morningwith an easy mixof classic andcontemporarymusic, all deliveredin Shay’s ownunique style.

Ronancollins ShowRonan’s dailyprogramme TheRonan CollinsShow airs from12-1pm weekdaysand continuesto be one of thebiggest radio showsin the country.So for a breakfrom all that newsand informationthroughout the day,check out RonanCollins on RTÉRadio 1 at middaywhere you’ll find afeast of music andlaughs.

South windsblowsSinger, musician,broadcaster andfilm-maker PhilipKing brings hisunique and wide-ranging musicalknowledge to theairwaves from thepicturesque settingof the Dinglepeninsula.

FullychargedFully Charged with Ryanand Tracy on SPIN 1038can be heard weekdaymornings from 06.45 to09.45 and is the best wayto start your day! Tunein for 3 hours packed fullof music, hot celebrityinterviews and ingeniousgames with brilliant prizes.

SPin Hits withnikki HayesSPIN Hits with Nikki Hayesis all about the music!Nikki plays 10 SPIN hitsin a row featuring thebiggest hits on the planet.Watch online with SPINTV and keep in touch onfacebook.com/spin1038 orat spin1038.com.

The bigHandbagThe Big Handbag ispresented by Becky Millerof SPIN 1038 and is stuffedfull of amazing tunes toget you in the mood foryour Saturday night. Thisis an awesome mix of 90sdance-floor classics, hitsyou will be hearing in theclubs and future hits welove and think are going tobe MASSIVE!

SPinbalanceBalance ispresented by PaulWebb of SPINSouth West andis the premierhome-grown danceshow in Ireland.Known for playingthe hottest musicbefore it hits theother clubs, Webbis an internationallyrecognised DJ.

SPincinemaSPIN Cinema presentedby Peter Murphy and airson SPIN SouthWest everySunday from 8:45am. Thisshow premieres the best innewmovie releases, the latestDVDs and hot entertainmentgossip every week. Throwin a couple of soundtracksfrom your favourite movies,sprinkle it with popcorn andthis movie show will makeyour radio sound 3D!

SPinHitsSPIN South Westplays the mostmusic and 10 SPINhits in a row is whatwe do best! EveryMonday to Friday,Eoghain is joinedby the SPIN teamas they travel theSouth West withgreat giveaways.

RadioON DEMAND



Phil cawley’s classic 9Test your musical knowledge with PhilCawley as he plays nine tracks from the sameyear. With some clues to help you along,see how quickly you can guess the year thatthese chart-toppers hit the airwaves!

The LighthouseMusician and DJ Dave Couse presents aneclectic music show every Sunday eveningon Today FM featuring the best alternativepop classics. This show takes a closer lookat the best music from New York City.

copelandclassic HitsCopeland ClassicHits is brought toyou courtesy ofLouis Copelandand Sons, a namesynonymous withmen’s tailored suits.From Brioni, Armani,Canali, Versaceto Hugo Boss andmore, visit www.louiscopeland.com.

Greenon RedGreen on Redis presented byAshley Keating of“The Frank andWalters” fameand is aired everySunday from7pm to 10pm, onCork’s Number1 radio stationfor Hit Music,RedFM. Green onRed features thevery best of Irishmusic, signed andunsigned. The showis the soundtrackto what’s up andcoming on the Irishmusic scene.Green on Redscooped “BestWeekly Show” at the2003 PPI NationalRadio Awards andcontinues to shinethe spotlight on Irishtalent. You can listenlive onwww.redfm.ieor on our iPhoneAppwhich can bedownloaded fromiTunes free of charge.

moncrieffMoncrieff is alively mix of funny,engaging andirreverent features.Its insightful formatgives listeners aunique listeningexperience. TuneintoMoncrieffevery weekdayfrom 1.30-4.30pmon Newstalk 106-108fm for a livelymix of phone-ins,text messagesand stories fromaround the worldand down yourstreet. Text 53106,email [email protected] orfollow Sean onTwitter@SeanMoncrieff

PhantomRockPhantom Rock is60 minutes of greatsongs that will makeyou want to turnthe volume up to 11!With the best inrock from Irelandand around theworld, PhantomRock is presentedby MichelleDoherty ofPhantom 105.2 – thehome of rock inDublin! Michellepresents FinestWorksongs, Mon-Fri from 10.30amto 2.30 pm onPhantom 105.2

AndyPrestonFM104 is Dublin’sHit Music Station,and we play nothingbut hits! Presentedby FM104’s AndyPreston, we’vepacked in thehottest artists andsongs into this 60minute show.

Dan HegartyDan Hegarty is a familiar nameto listeners of late night radiowith his show on RTE 2fm. Theshow mixes a wide spectrum ofacts, including Toro y Moi, theRolling Stones, Tinariwen andfar beyond.

Larry GoganLegendary broadcasterLarry Gogan brings the besttunes to RTÉ 2fm. Fromone-of-a-kind features andinterviews to the famous“Just a Minute Quiz”, it’snot difficult to see howlegendary broadcaster LarryGogan has become a familiarand much-loved voice inhouseholds across Ireland.Larry spun the first-ever discon RTÉ Radio 2 (as it wasthen known) back in 1979.

Rick o’SheaRick O’Shea presentshis weekday radio showfrom 2 to 4.30pm on RTÉ2fm. Along with CormacBattle, his trusty providerof Pointless Pieces ofResearch of the day, Rickand Cormac play the bestof contemporary and classictunes with lively audienceinteraction. You can tweetRick at @rickoshea

PHOTO

COURTE

SYOFTH

EIRISHTIMES


Safety briefWe would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:

● Please pay attention to anyinstructions given to you by thecabin crew.

● Any behaviour towards afellow passenger or cabincrew that is deemed tobe threatening or abusive(including the use of offensivelanguage) is a serious matter.

● Asourpriority is thesafetyofallpassengers, it is importantnottointerruptthecabincrewwhiletheycarryouttheirduties,andnottointerferewithaircraftequipment.

● As a service to passengers,alcohol is served in the airport

lounges and on board. In theinterests of safety, Aer Lingusmay refuse to allow you boardif it is thought too much alcoholhas been consumed. Whilethe majority of passengersare responsible, there haveoccasionally been incidentswhere intoxicated passengershave caused serious safetyhazards. Passengers arereminded also that during theflight you may not consumeany alcohol brought onto theaircraft by you or any otherpassenger. The consumption

inflight of Duty Free alcoholpurchased from the SkyShopping service is alsoprohibited. This measureis, again, necessary in theinterests of flight safety.If incidents of this kind occurduring a flight, the cabincrew is obliged to contactpolice on arrival at your finaldestination. The AircraftCaptain may also divert theflight enroute in order toremove disruptive passengers.Should this happen, AerLingus will not be responsible

for getting you home, yourticket money will not berefunded, and – in additionto the authorities awaitingyou on landing – you could beheavily fined and/or be liableto a prison sentence. In manycases, other airlines maysubsequently refuse to allowyou to fly with them.

● We emphasise that while onboard the aircraft our priorityis your safety. As always, wewish you a safe and enjoyableflight, as well as a safe onwardjourney.

Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your flight:

● Wear loose-fitting clothes on board to allow your skin to breathe,and apply a good moisturiser throughout.

● Stretch your legs as much as possible by taking a stroll throughthe cabin.

● Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce anypossible effects of long-duration travel.

● Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Bend andstraighten your ankles in a brisk manner with the knee straight.

● Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving yourankles.

● Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long andgently stretch muscles to improve your circulation.

● And remember to move your neck and shoulders during longflights to prevent stiffness.

Wewish you an enjoyable experience.

Wellbeing

Reducing theeffects of jet-lagTo help reduce the effects of travelling andjet-lag before, during and after your flight,we have introduced an audio programme(available on Channel 6), which will playevery other hour, offering 60 minutes ofsoothing and relaxing audio environments.The programme is designed to enhanceyour physical and mental wellbeing duringthe flight.

Apart from tuning in to the inflightrelaxation programme, here are some othersimple things that you can do to preparefor your journey.

● Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea orcoffee the day before you travel.

● When you arrive at your destination, tryto adjust your activities gradually to thenew time zone.

● Mild exercise on arrival will also help tostimulate your circulation.

Carry-on baggageCarry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restrictedto one piece per person, as well as to the weights andmeasurements, illustrated below.

Passengers withwheelchair requirements

Our priority is to always ensurethe safety and comfort of allpassengers.We encourage

passengers whomay need assistanceto contact us well in advance of theirdate of travel to enable us to assesstheir needs.

If you are a wheelchair user orrequire wheelchair assistance whentravelling on Aer Lingus services,please advise us of your requirementsat least 48 hours in advance, quotingyour booking reference number. Ourcontact details are as follows:email: [email protected]:● (Ireland) 0818 365 011

08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun

● (UK) 0871 718 20 21● (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333● (USA) 516 622 4222

AerLingus is pleased tobringyou somesuggestionsand lightexercises toenhanceyour comfort andwellbeingduringyourflight:

Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos,overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU securityrules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggageapply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSAsecurity rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergencyexit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Maximumweight

10kg(22 lbs)

Maximumweight

7kg(15 lbs)

AER LINGUS AER LINGUSREGIONAL

43cm(17ins)

28cm(11ins)

20cm(8ins)

40cm(16ins)

55cm(22ins)

20cm(8ins)


To & From DublinAustriaVienna

BelgiumBrussels

Canary IslandsFuerteventuraGran CanariaLanzaroteTenerife

Czech RepublicPrague

FranceLyonNiceParis

GermanyBerlinDusseldorfFrankfurtHamburgMunichStuttgart

HungaryBudapest

ItalyMilan (Linate)Milan (Malpensa)Rome

LithuaniaVilnius

MoroccoAgadir (effectiveDecember 24)

The NetherlandsAmsterdam

PolandKrakowWarsaw

PortugalFaroLisbon

RomaniaBucharest

SpainAlicanteBarcelonaMadridMalaga

SwitzerlandGenevaZurich

United KingdomBirminghamEdinburghLondon (Gatwick)London (Heathrow)Manchester

United Kingdomwith Aer Lingus RegionalOperated by Aer ArannAberdeenBlackpoolBristolCardiffEdinburghGlasgow

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

RouteMaps

DUBLIN

Aberdeen

Glasgow Edinburgh

BlackpoolManchester

Cardiff Bristol

London(Heathrow)

Birmingham

London(Gatwick)

BlackpoolBlackpool

DUBLIN

Paris

GenevaLyon

Zurich

StuttgartMunich

Frankfurt

DusseldorfBrussels

Amsterdam

Hamburg

Berlin

Prague Krakow

Warsaw

Vilnius

ViennaBudapest

Nice

Rome

MilanLINATE

MilanMALPENSA Bucharest

Madrid

Alicante

MalagaFaro

Lisbon

FuerteventuraLanzarote

GranCanaria

Tenerife

Barcelona


To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & GatwickFROM BELFAST

Canary IslandsLanzaroteTenerife

ItalyRome

SpainAlicanteMalaga

United KingdomLondon Heathrow

FROMCORK

Canary IslandsLanzaroteTenerifeLas Palmas

FranceParis

GermanyMunich

ItalyRome

SpainBarcelonaMalaga

SwitzerlandGeneva (effectiveDecember 17)

The NetherlandsAmsterdam

United KingdomLondon GatwickLondon Heathrow

United Kingdomwith Aer Lingus RegionalOperated by Aer ArannBirminghamBristolEdinburghGlasgowManchester

FROMGATWICK

IrelandCorkDublinIreland West Airport(Knock)Shannon

SpainMalaga

FROM SHANNON

United KingdomLondon Heathrow

United Kingdomwith Aer Lingus RegionalOperated by Aer ArannBirminghamBristolEdinburghManchester

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK


SHANNONCORK

BELFASTKnock

Dublin

Amsterdam

Munich

Barcelona

Geneva

Alicante

LanzaroteTenerife

Rome

Malaga

Paris

LONDON GATWICKLondon Heathrow

Glasgow Edinburgh

Manchester

Birmingham

Bristol

Las Palmas


INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

To & From Dublin, Shannon &MadridFROM DUBLIN

USABostonChicagoNew YorkOrlando

FROM SHANNON

USABoston terminatesJanuary 3 (until March)New York terminatesJanuary 2 (until March)

FROMMADRID

USAWashington DC

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

New York

Boston

DublinShannon

Madrid

Washington

Orlando


FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO

New destinations with AerLingus, in partnership withJetBlue, United Airlines andAer Arann

Getting to the US fromdestinations throughoutEurope has never been easier.Now US, Irish and Europeanbased customers can booka single low fare reservationbetween Ireland, Europe anda wide range of continental USdestinations using JFK NewYork, Boston and Chicago asstopovers.

■ NEWYORKConnecting with JetBlue at JFK:When you arrive from Dublin,pick up your bags and clearcustoms Then all you need todo is drop off your bags at theAer Lingus transfer desk beforehopping onto the AirTrain toJetBlue’s Terminal Five for yourdomestic connection.

Passengers travelling fromthe US to Ireland and Europewill be able to check in bags atthe JetBlue domestic departurepoint and then pick them upagain in Shannon or Dublin.

■ BOSTONConnecting with JetBlue atBoston Logan InternationalAirport:When you arrive from Dublin,pick up your bags and clearcustoms. Turn left towards theAer Lingus transfer desk, whereyou drop off your bags and thentake a short walk to TerminalC for your JetBlue domesticdeparture.

Passengers travelling from theUS to Ireland and Europe willbe able to check in bags at theJetBlue departure point and thenpick them up again in Shannonor Dublin.

■ CHICAGOConnecting with United Airlinesat O’Hare Chicago InternationalAirport:On arrival at Terminal Five fromDublin, pick up your bags andclear customs before recheckingyour bags at the United AirlinesRecheck Desk (which is to theright of customs).

A nearby escalator takesyou to the ATS (Airport TransitSystem), which runs every fourminutes, to Terminal Five and yourUA domestic departure point.

Passengers from the US toIreland and Europe can check inbags at the UA departure point,

then exit security in ChicagoO’Hare to take the AirportTransit System to TerminalFive for the onward Aer Lingusflight, and pick up their bags inShannon or Dublin.

■ DUBLINConnecting with Aer LingusRegional (operated by AerArann) at Dublin Airport:Aer Lingus’s interline agreementwith Aer Arann allows passengersconnect to Aer Lingustransatlantic flights via DublinAirport, where they can throughcheck their luggage directly totheir final US destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

Vancouver

Edmonton

Calgary

Winnipeg

Long Beach

Salt Lake City

Burbank

Minneapolis

CHICAGO

Kansas City

Saint Louis

Omaha

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Nashville

Atlanta

Orlando

San JuanAguadilla

Ponce

WASHINGTON(Dulles)

Fort LauderdaleWest Palm BeachFort Myers

NEWYORK

BOSTON

TorontoBuffalo

Detroit

Cleveland

Rochester

ColumbusIndianapolisCincinnati

Lexington

Burlington

Syracuse Portland ME

Seattle

Portland OR

Denver

Sacramento

San FranciscoOakland Las Vegas

Los AngelesSan Diego

Phoenix

AustinHouston New Orleans

Jacksonville

Tampa

Miami

Charlotte

Pittsburgh

LouisvilleRichmond

Raleigh - Durham

Long Beach

Saint LouisCincinnati

Lexington

Raleigh - Durham

BurlingtonPittsburgh

Rochester

Richmond

Washington (National)Baltimore

Connecting Europe, the USA & Canada

Ponce


INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

■ VIA DUBLINwith Aer Lingus

Alicante Amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf Edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Krakow Lisbon London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Milan (Linate)

Munich Paris Rome Venice Vienna Warsaw

■ VIA DUBLINwith Aer Lingus RegionalOperated by Aer Arann

Aberdeen Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow

■ VIA SHANNONwith Aer Lingus(effective until January 3)

London (Heathrow) Manchester ■ Paris

■ VIA NEWYORKwith JetBlue

Aguadilla Austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington Charlotte Denver Fort Lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix Pittsburg Ponce Portland ME Portland OR Raleigh-Durham

Rochester Sacramento Salt Lake City San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Syracuse Tampa West Palm Beach

■ VIA BOSTONwith JetBlue

Baltimore Buffalo Denver Ford Lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville Las Vegas Long Beach Los Angeles New Orleans Oakland Orlando Phoenix

Pittsburg Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Richmond San Diego San Francisco San Juan Seattle Tampa Washington (Dulles) Washington (National) West Palm Beach

■ VIA CHICAGOwith United to USA

Atlanta Austin Charlotte Cincinnati Cleveland Columbus Dallas (Fort Worth) Denver Detroit Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville Kansas City Las Vegas Lexington Los Angeles Louisville Miami Minneapolis Nashville New Orleans Omaha Phoenix Pittsburgh

Portland OR Raleigh-Durham Sacramento San Diego San Francisco Seattle St Louis Tampa

■ VIA CHICAGOwith United to Canada

Calvary Edmonton Toronto Vancouver Winnipeg


Dublin

Shannon

Lisbon

FaroMalaga

Alicante

Barcelona

Madrid

Geneva

Krakow

Milan (Linate)

NaplesRome

Venice

Warsaw

Aberdeen

Glasgow Edinburgh

BristolDusseldorf

Amsterdam

Brussels

Paris

Manchester

Birmingham

London (Heathrow)

London(Gatwick)

Frankfurt

Berlin

Munich Vienna

Cardiff



CONNECTING AT HEATHROWAIRPORT

Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you tothe Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

You are an international connecting passenger and all yourluggage* is checked through to your final destination

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collectedfrom the back of the aircraft

PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIVING AT TERMINAL 2

If you already have a boarding card for yourconnecting flight, and your baggage has beentagged to your final destination, simply follow thesign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, whichyou will see on your left hand side as you enterthe Immigration Hall. By following this sign, youwill proceed to Immigration and Security Check.After clearing these points, check the informationscreens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to yourfinal destination you must clear Immigration,enter the baggage reclaim area, collect yourbag, exit through the Customs hall and proceedto Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.Once you have reached the departures level,check the information screens for your onwardflight information, and proceed as directed tothe appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need furtherassistance, please go to the Aer Lingus FlightConnections Desk, which is located in thebaggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where ourstaff will be glad to help.

PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport

AerLingusFlight

ConnectionsDesk

ImmigrationImmigration

SecurityCheck

Escalatorto Gates401 - 426

Liftsto Gates401 - 426

Terminal 2Arrivals

To Gates 100s -300s

Arrivals Route toBaggage Reclaimfrom Gates 400s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONSConnecting flight departsGates 100s - 300s

FLIGHT CONNECTIONSConnecting flight departsGates 401 - 426

FlightConnections

Cloghan CastleCloghan Castle is a fully restored 12th Century Norman

Castle, it is an exclusive, self catering venue which is ideal for that fairy tale wedding reception, birthday party, family reunion or special event in the rolling hills near Loughrea, Co. Galway in the West of Ireland. The Banquet hall can seat up to 120 guests, luxurious drawing room ideal for

drinks reception or a relaxing afternoon by the open fi re. The castle has full central heating.

RENT A CASTLEIntl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: [email protected] Web: www.cloghancastle.com

Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group

the little museum of dublin15 st stephen’s green

History comes to life at this brilliant new museum, housed in one of Dublin’s nest Georgian mansions.Admission normally costs €5. Present this voucher on arrival and you pay just €4.

Discover the amazing story � � � � � � � � �and save 20% on the normal ticket price.

special offer for cara readers

Michelin Bib Gourmand

Classifieds _Layout 1 17/11/2011 11:53 Page 1

Flights, camera, action!Introducing the very latest in in-fl ight entertainment systems; starring over 200 hours of blockbuster movies, TV shows, music videos and the latest interactive games on your very own personal screen.

Not only do we have a state-of-the-art entertainment system, but also the most modern fl eet of aircraft fl ying to the USA from Ireland. And once there we can even smooth your onward journey to over 40 US destinations with our partners jetBlue and United Airlines.

There is no better way to make time fl y.

Great Care. Great Fare.

Great Care. Great Fare.151712 Aer Lingus Film Strip 290x220.indd 1 14/09/2011 12:26

Balenciaga L’Essence10, Avenue George VBalenciaga L’Essence is a leathery violet fragrance, revealing avibrant trail for contemporary elegance. The violet leaves are setablaze with warm spices at the top, while the heart becomes moresensual as the amber leathery facets of labdanum warm up theviolet to express an asserted femininity.Rock, Sensual, Modern.

Sekonda Sports ChronographMen’s Watch

Large men’s sports watch with ivory cream dial,1 second stopwatch timing up to one hour and24 hour readout. This watch features a leatherstrap and is water resistant to 50 metres.Guaranteed for 2 years.

Britta Sunglassesby Ted BakerThese women’s sunglasses from Ted Baker are the essentialaccessory and feature a zip-pull temple, inspired by TedBaker’s apparel collection. A must-have for the fashionconscious this season.Offering full UVA and UVBprotection, these sunglasses come complete with travelcase, cleaning cloth and a 1 year guarantee.

Sky Shopping

Please check yourSky Shoppingbrochure for

all prices

Please check your

SkyShopping

SekondaWomen’s 2 ToneAnalogue Dress Watch

Featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and stoneset case.Water resistant to 50m, i.e. swimproof.

Guaranteed for 2 years.

Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing qualityitems and reduced prices onboard during December/January

15-YearAnniversaryEyeshadowCollection

It’s Urban Decay’s party, andto celebrate we’re launching15 new eyeshadow shades

and only in this kit! With justthe right balance of neutralsand brights, darks and lights,

the 15-Year AnniversaryPalette is both versatile and

the UD junkie’s ultimatecollection. Inside, the shadow

tray pulls out to reveal acompartment that can beused to stash jewellery or

whatever else you’re hiding.


STRAP


Growing up in Irelandwith a Kiwi Aer Linguspilot as step-fathermeant travelling waspart of life – from a day

trip to Paris to buy a kitchen sink(becoming the only family I knowwho really did travel with one) toholidays in exotic (read unpopularlocations with stand-by space on theplane for eight) locations.

As a wildlife cinematographer,travel continues to be a major partof life. This piece could so easilybe about trips not a trip. I could,for example, write about the ninehard weeks spent crossing 5,000kilometres of Mongolia in a Russianjeep. Our crew (three vegetarianwomen) existed solely on noodlesand learnt that in Mongolia sausageapparently is a vegetable and vodkais mandatory.

But I got the chance, lastFebruary, to go on a trip somewheretotally different, Canada. Even myten-year-old son, wildlife immuneafter years of lions and cheetahs,was full of excitement; polar bearsapparently are cool.

Our crew set off from a dismalLondon to a slightly breezierWinnipeg where we collected over a

newborn cubs and who were nowemerging for spring.

Each morning we’d squashinto trucks having downed justone cherished cup of coffee (noportaloos in the field). We becameaccustomed to sitting sweatingand fully layered up, ready to burstoutside into -50˚C if a bear wasspotted. We had some gorgeoussightings but wind or lack of lightscuppered our chances of filming.

There was one day though whereeverything went right. Our guideMorris, frost bitten and sporting anepic walrus moustache, radioed fromhis snowmobile that he’d trackeddown a mum with two cubs. Theywere sheltering from the elementsin some spruce and were almostinvisible, totally caked in snow. Wefroze waiting for some action andas the light started to soften and thewind eased off, they began to stir.At first we caught just a glimpse of

an eye or ear and then one ofthe cubs emerged and shook,turning from snowball tothe most appealing creatureI’ve ever seen. I knew they’dbe awe-inspiring but had noidea how emotional they’dmake me feel. Never mindthat my fingers were so coldI couldn’t feel the controlson my camera to turn itoff, it was an extraordinarymoment and everyone wasin awe. My trip of a lifetimewasn’t capturing some new,mind-boggling behaviour,it was simply the privilege

of observing an animal behavingnaturally in its own landscape thattragically, down to us, may not bearound much longer.

As if this wasn’t enough, thatnight was our director’s last and sowe ventured outside and see if theNorthern Lights would do theirthing. I can’t remember a time whenI hadn’t wanted to see the auroraborealis and our luck was in, thesky was clear with low effervescentbands of glowing light. No wonderthe local Cree Indians thought therewas magic afoot, certainly on thistrip we had witnessed it.

sophiedarlington.com.

quarter ton of cameraequipment and flew onto a positively chillyChurchill located on thewestern edge of HudsonBay. Here we had achance to test drivesome of our “extreme”clothing before catchingthe evening train toWapusk National Parksome 65 kilometres tothe south. A few hourslater, the train ground toa halt at an obscure flagstop in the pitch black.After dismounting into -38˚C, ourseveral pairs of trousers no longerseemed like a joke.

Snow-tracked vehicles took us toWatchee Lodge, an ex-naval base inthe heart of Ursus maritimus country.More hostel than hotel, with a scantsaucepan of hot water per day towash in, it had paper-thin walls andslept four to a dorm. The Frenchgroup next door were positivelysonorous and sleep was elusive.Twenty of us jammed together, all inManitoba for the same reason: theopportunity to observe and, in ourcase, film, polar bear mothers whohad spent the winter nursing their

PolarPHOTO

GRAPHBYCÉC

ILEBURBAN

an eye or ear and then one of the cubs emerged and shook,

turning from snowball to the most appealing creature I’ve ever seen. I knew they’d be awe-inspiring but had no

idea how emotional they’d make me feel. Never mind

ngers were so cold that my fi I couldn’t feel the controls

on my camera to turn it , it was an extraordinary off moment and everyone was

in awe. My trip of a lifetime wasn’t capturing some new,

mind-boggling behaviour, it was simply the privilege

of observing an animal behaving

Top, wildlifecinematographerSophie Darlington

in action, and,above, polar bear

cub and mum.

TRIP OF A LIFETIME

magicTravel is second nature to Irish wildlife cinematographerSophie Darlington, but one trip in particular stands out.

O2-6956A-23 O2 Money Cara Mag.indd 1 9/15/11 2:37 PM

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CARA Magazine Dec 2011 Jan 2012