The CanadaYou Probably Don’t Know

(But Should)

The Magazine for DestinationTravel Specialists The Magazine for DestinationTravel Specialists

AUGUST 2010

®

TRAVELSAVERSCelebrates

40th Anniversaryin Grand Style

Îsles de la Madeleine

Convenes in The Gambia

for 35th Annual Congress

ATA

If the notion of getting away from it all without going ter-ribly far away, of escaping to a small group of islandsstrewn with sandy white beaches, rugged cliffs, gentlyrolling mountains and bustling fishing ports without

having to suffer the expense or overcrowding of Cape Cod orMartha’s Vineyard, you might wish to advise your clients tohead up to Canada’s Magdalen Islands, known in their na-tive language as les Îsles de la Madeleine, located a fewhours north of Quebec City. Getting to this small archipelagoin the Gulf of St. Lawrence requires a bit of patience and afew short plane rides—the bulk of which don’t even requiredeplaning—but the payoff is a big one. Stepping off the planeat the Îsles de la Madeleine airport is a little akin to Dorothyfirst arriving in Oz: it leaves the first-time visitor feeling as ifthey’ve left behind a world of black and white, suddenly em-braced by brisk but gentle breezes, abundant sunshine, crys-tal-clear skies, and a landscape dotted with houses rangingfrom the simple to the very grand, many of which have beenpainted in an eye-popping variety of colors, the likes of whichyou may never have seen before. Driving around the islandor simply standing on a bluff overlooking one of its lovelybays, it’s tempting to think that the colors of the houses mighthave been part of some grand plan, but the truth is far lesscomplicated: the color scheme of many of the homes scat-tered across the islands are the by-product of the colors of theboats belonging to the fishermen who live in them, havingused the same paint for their homes as they do for their boats.The result is unpretentious, visually ravishing, and—for thosein search of it—flooded with romance.

The Magdalen Islands actually comprise nine small islands,as well as a smattering of islets that can also be explored. Witha land area of less than 80 square miles, the islands are easilynavigated by car, motor scooter, or even bicycle. Centuriesago, native Americans visited the islands to harvest its abun-dant walrus population; now long gone, the walruses havebeen replaced by seals, and the islands are also home to more

than 250 different species of birds, including the endangeredPiping Plover and Roseate Tern. Some of the islands’ popula-tions of approximately 13,000 people are direct descendantsof the survivors of more than 400 shipwrecks, but numerouslighthouses have since been built, although many old hulksstill survive on the beaches and under the waters.

A Wealth of ActivitiesAlthough fishing—especially for lobsters and mussels—is

the primary industry on the islands, tourism comes in a closesecond, and in this regard, there are more activities availableto tourists than one can count, among them hiking, bicyclecamping, sea kayaking, windsurfing and kite surfing. Evenduring a one-week stay on the islands, it would be difficult tofit them all in—a pity, since they are all fun, challenging, andrewarding, no matter one’s degree of experience. AtAerosport, for example, 2001 world snow kiting championEric Marchand, who opened the first kite surfing school inCanada in 1998, offers multi-level classes in kite surfing—acombination of surfing in the water and using a kite to sweepyou along—as well as in kite buggying, in which the use of alarge kite is used to power a buggy around the beach, and seakayaking, in which the visitor is allowed to explore the shoreand the cliffs that border it without the use of motors, engines,or fuels, typical of nearly all the islands’ activities, whichfocus on exploring the environment while also protecting andrespecting it. AAeerroossppoorrtt,, 886666--998866--66667777,, wwwwww..aaeerroossppoorrtt..ccaa

For an activity of a really different sort, a visit to Vert et Mer(Green and Sea) won’t be easily forgotten. Located in theArsènes valley on the island of Cap-aux-Meules, shelteredfrom the wind, and reachable only by a gentle hike up an un-paved road into the pine-scented woods, this outfit offers oneof the more unusual places to stay: a group of yurts—tentlikedwellings consisting of a cylindrical wall of poles in a latticearrangement with a conical roof of poles, both covered by felt

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Îsles de la Madeleine: The Canada YouProbably Don’t Know (But Should)Kaleidoscopic variety of homes dots a small archipelago in Quebec.R O B I N S WA D O S

A dazzling array of colors characterizes the houses on Les Îsles de la Madeleine.

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or skins. Vert et Mer offers beds and mattresses, sanitary ser-vices and solar showers, wood stoves (including wood),kitchens with propane cookers, sink and cook kits, an outdoorbarbecue and campfire site, drinking water, and propanelanterns (BYOB, please). Prices range from $95 a day to $400for six nights. Vert et Mer offers a unique combination of na-ture and cuisine through its trip by sea kayak at sunset (ac-companied by professional guides), followed by a sumptuousdinner of crab and fresh local products. Among other activi-ties, Vert et Mer also offers day-long expeditions with exclu-sive access to the Brion Island Ecological Reserve, whichhosts less than 100 visitors a year. All in all, a very cool andunforgettable way to be at one with nature. VVeerrtt eett MMeerr,, wwwwww..vveerrtteettmmeerr..ccoomm

For those on a budget, the wonderful Parc du Gros Cap of-fers an incredibly economical place to stay both for youngpeople in search of a youth hostel and for couples needing abedroom (complete with double bed) without the added costof luxurious surroundings—which is not to say that the ac-commodations at this auberge aren’t both immaculate andsparklingly clean. In addition to offering indoor accommoda-tions, the park is also a campground with 100 places for peo-ple to stay. Immediately adjacent to a sandy beach, the site of-fers wireless Internet, free shower and laundry, and a grocery,restaurant and fish market nearby. Director Frédéric Côté isalso a friendly, highly experienced instructor in sea kayaking,offering tours ranging from one-on-one to groups to three-hour tours and two-day expeditions. The 27 private andshared rooms at the auberge include a self-service kitchenand range from $27 to $50 a night for couples occupying oneroom—a bargain by anyone’s standards. PPaarrcc dduu GGrrooss CCaapp,, 880000--998866--44550055,, wwwwww..ppaarrccddeeggrroossccaapp..ccaa

La Salicorne is a lovely resort with beautiful rooms overlook-ing two different bays. It has a wonderful restaurant (reserva-tions necessary) serving fresh fish—in particular beautiful,large lobsters caught that morning—and local produce. Underthe direction of Robert St-Onge, La Salicorne is also a camp-site, with 23 spots, seven of which come equipped with toiletsand electricity. Most important, it is also home to a wonderfulvariety of day activities that include—depending on one’s age(minimum 14) and experience—cave explorations, mud baths,bird watching and geological expeditions, shell fishing (andmaking what you’ve caught for dinner!), and many differentforms of kayaking under the expert direction of 23-year-oldEmmanuel Longuépée Arseneau (and don’t worry about hisyouth; he’s been at it since the age of 17).

Unusual Places to VisitLest you might think the Magdalen Islands are little more

than a hub of physical activity, it’s also a fun place to shop,with many quaint and fascinating stores that contain locallymade jewelry, mementos, and clothing (the fishermen’s shirts

are particularly beguiling). One of the more unusual shops tovisit is Artisans du Sable, which features many different toys,sculptures, and articles made entirely of local sand. Enjoyablefor adults, the shop is particularly welcoming to children, al-lowing them to touch, wriggle their feet in, and look at sandin a completely new way. AArrttiissaannss dduu SSaabbllee,, wwwwww..aarrttiissaannssdduussaabbllee..ccoomm

For those in search of a treat for the taste buds, several des-tinations are essential to visitors to the Magdalen Islands.The Fromagerie du Pied-De-Vent, owned by Jérémie andLucie Arseneau, is a local cheese making factory—the onlyone on the islands, in fact—and their specialties, two raw-milk cheeses called Piet-De-Vent and La Tomme desDemoiselles, are scrumptious (and not easily carried out ofthe country, so treat yourself on the spot and enjoy themhere). And whether you’re a connoisseur or just in search ofsomething new, a visit to Le Fumoir D’Antan, a herring smok-ing factory, is also great fun. A family tradition of theArseneau family since the 1940s, the factory was renovatedin 1996 with the reappearance of the herring shoals aroundthe archipelago. Following the start of the herring season inApril, the fish are taken to the plant for washing, brining,stringing, smoking over a fire of hardwood and sawdust, andfinally packing—a painstaking and complex process that alsoyields fabulous amounts of smoked salmon and mackerel, allof which are incredibly delicious (and all transportable out ofthe country). Workshops are also available for those wishingto view the process from start to finish. LLee FFuummooiirr DD’’AAnnttaann,, wwwwww..ffuummooiirrddaannttaann..ccoomm

And if these visits have sufficiently whetted your taste buds,you might wish to head on over to the local micro-brewery, Àl’abri de la Tempête (In the Shelter of the Storm), located im-mediately adjacent to the stunning Dune de l’Ouest on Capaux Meulnes island. Manufacturing eight different kinds(and strengths) of beer, guides lead the visitor through everystage of the brewing process in the plant, allowing him totaste the beers at each phase, from grain to finished product.There’s a warm and congenial pub upstairs from the plantwhere visitors can relax and unwind while savoring one of thedelicious variety of microbrews they manufacture. There’s

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Dozens of quaint shops await visitors to Les Îsles de la Madeleine.

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CONTINUED ON PAGE 14

also a boutique where the visitor can purchase any of thebeers, as well as a range of souvenirs—T-shirts and sweat-shirts, for example—emblazoned with the brewery’s logo,making for a cool souvenir.

Where to Eat, Where to Stay: The Choices Couldn’t be Tougher

With so many places to visit, so many activities to partakein, and so many samples of regional specialties available tothe visitor, one’s mind naturally turns to where to stay, andwhere to have a “real meal.” Not to worry—the islands aredotted with literally dozens of fabulous places to eat andbeautiful places to stay. Stopping for lunch at La Maisonéedes Îles is a great place to start. Don’t let its somewhat diner-like façade fool you: inside this cozy family restaurant can befound a scrumptious array of lobster sandwiches, juicy ham-burgers, and seafood dishes that will make your mouth water.

For a truly memorable occasion (and a genuine splurge), novisit to the islands would be complete without a dinner at LaTable des Roy. Run by chef-owner Johanne Vigneault, thisultra-high-end restaurant offers an incredible menu that rivalsany restaurant a jaded New Yorker might be used to. Offeringtwo two-person tasting menus, La Table des Roy then pro-ceeds to unfold an à la carte menu featuring lobster, sweet-breads, risotto, pork, and a truly amazing bouillabaisse—thebest this reporter has ever had. A dessert specialty is a maplesyrup soufflé that lingers on the tongue long after the meal hasconcluded. Reservations strongly recommended. LLaa TTaabbllee ddeess RRooyy,, wwwwww..llaattaabblleeddeessrrooyy..ccoomm

Another superb meal is to be found at l’Auberge Chez Denisà François, which doubles as a charming place to stay, witheight smoke-free rooms, each with their own bathroom,shower, phone and cable TV. Using lumber from an 1874shipwreck, Edmond Brasset built himself this charminghouse, preserved more than 125 years later as an inn that wonthe Grands Prix du Tourisme in 2004. The food’s the thinghere. The restaurant at Chez Denis à François is intimate,with a sophisticated menu that features mostly seafood prod-ucts, highlighting regional dishes, as well as a carefully cho-sen list of fine wines.

More Places to StayOne of the Magdalen Islands’ most charming qualities is

its preservation of the past by having converted historicalbuildings into contemporary places to stay. Open all yearround, La Butte Ronde, a converted former schoolhouse runby life partners and co-hosts Ghislain and Guy, is a charm-ing bed and breakfast containing five non-smoking bed-rooms ranging from $100 to $145 a night, all with oceanviews, wireless Internet, aromatherapy products, and hairdryer. Two free bikes are also available for clients. There’s alarge living room, veranda and patio overlooking stunning

sunsets each evening. It’s a lovely and quiet place to stay,with gourmet breakfasts personally served each morning byGhislain and Guy. LLaa BBuuttttee RRoonnddee,, iinnffoo@@llaabbuutttteerroonnddee..ccoomm,,wwwwww..llaabbuutttteerroonnddee..ccoomm

Another superb place to stay is Havre-sur-Mer, located 100feet from the water and perched on a stunning bluff. It con-tains nine rooms and three studios. The rooms are floodedwith light and offer dazzling views of the ocean or the bay andfishermen’s wharf. Some have patio doors that open onto bal-conies directly facing the water and range from $99 for asmall room with double-sized bed and bathroom to $225 amonth for a two-floor apartment, suitable for a family. It’s adream-like place run by owner Thérèse Bergeron. HHaavvrree--ssuurr--MMeerr,, aauubbeerrggee@@hhaavvrreessuurrmmeerr..ccoomm,,wwwwww..hhaavvrreessuurrmmeerr..ccoomm

Last but not least, attention must be paid to the Domaine duVieux Couvent (The Old Convent), a stunning renovation ofa building that took four years to build, from 1914 to 1918, andthe only building made of stone on the islands. Over thecourse of the past century, the building has gone through nu-merous owners, until the present one, Réginald Poirier, tookover in 1987. In the ensuing years, the number of employeesat the Vieux Couvent has increased from nine to more than40. The luxurious rooms, all facing the water, range from $150to $275 a night. Its location, just a stone’s throw away fromthe beach, with its rugged cliffs and crashing waves, is a vi-sual treat and a stunning way to remember the rugged par-adise that is Les Îsles de la Madeleine. DDoommaaiinnee dduu VViieeuuxx CCoouuvveenntt,,wwwwww..ddoommaaiinneedduuvviieeuuxxccoouuvveenntt..ccoomm

How to Get ThereAir Canada offers flights from New York to Montreal, pro-

ceeding onward, with a few stops (but no deplaning), to LesÎsles de la Madeleine. AAiirr CCaannaaddaa,,((888888--224477--22226622,, wwwwww..aaiirrccaannaaddaa..ccoommQuebec Tourism, Vicky Taylor,vicki.taylor@tourisme.gouv.qc.ca; Suzie Loiselle, suzie.loiselle@quebecmaritime.ca

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L’Auberge Denis a Francois: The Auberge Chez Denis à François, where gracious accommodations and fine dining have won the Grands Prix du Tourisme 2004.

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CANADA FROM PAGE 13

C A N A D A R E S O U R C E D I R E C T O R Y

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GREAT CANADIAN TRAVEL COMPANY OFFERSCHANCE TO MEET POLAR BEARS UP-CLOSE

The Great Canadian Travel Company has introduced a one-weekprogram to Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, the only tourist camp along a100-mile stretch of Hudson Bay coastline, and maybe the best placein the world for close encounters with polar bears.

During the warm months they socialize and prowl the shoreline,many within a few miles of Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. During an av-erage season, up to 400 pass by the lodge.

What makes this population so unique is the high concentration ofmothers and cubs. Many have never seen a person before, so theyhave the calm demeanor of bears that haven’t learned to fear people.

The adventure begins with an overnight at Four Points Sheraton inWinnipeg. Guests then depart for Gillam, Manitoba, via Calm AirInternational, and transfer to a private charter for a one-hour flightto Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge (with aerial photo-taking possibilities).

A full day awaits with lunch, gourmet dinner and orientation, in-cluding an interpretive walk on the inland Palsa Bogs, Tundra Pondsand Taiga Forest. After dinner there’s an informative lecture or slideshow. Lights are out at 10, generator off. On clear nights one mayview the aurora borealis—“Northern Lights,” as the spectacle isknown.

Breakfast is generally at 8, with outings starting at 9:30. If thereare bears near the lodge (and this happens often!), the tour may bedelayed to take advantage. Days 3 to 5 otherwise include naturetrekking, polar bear spotting and photo ops.

Outings rotate through the following (with lunch and a tea boilaround a campfire): ATV coast tour to the tidal flats and Bay shore-line; full-day photo tour to the coast to photograph bears, otherwildlife and landscape; and staying close to the lodge to photographbears as opportunities arise (lunch is served at the lodge this day).

The seven-day/six-night program is $6,095 ppdo, with departuredates still remaining for August 23, August 30 and September 20.Included are six-nights’ accommodation (two in Winnipeg, four atthe Lodge), roundtrip airfare [Winnipeg/Gillam] and roundtrip char-ter flight [Gillam/Nanuk Lodge], plus all required transfers and mostmeals.The Great Canadian Travel Company, 800-661-3830, www.greatcanadiantravel.com

MONT-TREMBLANT SUMMER FLIGHTSAVAILABLE ON PORTER AIRLINES

Porter Airlines has begun summer service to Mont-Tremblant andthe Upper Laurentians for the first time, with two flights per weekbetween Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport and Mont-TremblantInternational Airport. Flights continue through September 6, 2010,on Thursday and Sunday each week. These flights improve accessi-bility to Tremblant and the Laurentian region.

Porter has provided winter seasonal service between Mont-Tremblant and Toronto City Airport since 2007. The announcementof summer service follows three successful winter seasons. This pastyear’s winter schedule included as many as eight flights weekly, upfrom two flights in the first year of service.

Popular music and summer fun festivals, like Les RythmesTremblant and the Tremblant Summer Festival currently running,are seasonal attractions. Outdoor enthusiasts can also hike, bike,golf, lounge by the lake or find other opportunities to pass the time.Custom golf packages, including Porter flights, can be arranged byUltimate Golf Vacations.

Porter Airlines is Canada’s third largest scheduled carrier, basedat Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport. Frequent flyers earn a free flightafter as few as five one-way trips on their VIPorter program.Porter Airlines, 888-619-8622, www.flyporter.com; Ultimate Golf Vacations, www.ultimategolf.ca

‘BIENVENUE’ TO ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELONWITH MAXXIM VACATIONS

With seafood dinners magnifique and its narrow streets full ofpeppy Peugeots, the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon just off thecoast of Newfoundland are a feast for the senses. Thanks to their cu-rious history, the tiny islands (population 5,000) remain an integralpart of the French Republic. The local currency is the Euro, TV showsare beamed in from France and the latest issue of Paris Match is al-ways available. And with a flying time from St. John’s, the capital ofNewfoundland, of only 45 minutes, the islands are perfect for a week-end getaway to Europe—without jetlag.

Knowing these fascinating islands well, Atlantic Canada travel spe-cialist Maxxim Vacations offers clients two tempting packages in-cluding airfare from St. John’s.

The St. Pierre and Miquelon package includes two or three nights’B&B accommodation with continental breakfast, one three-courseFrench cuisine dinner with wine, a guided tour of the town of St.Pierre and admission to the local museum. For explorers wantingalso to combine a visit to St. Pierre and Miquelon with a stay inNewfoundland, there’s the popular weeklong A Tale of Two Islandsitinerary which also includes three nights in St. John’s, one each inHarbour Grace and Burin or Marystown, a whale watching boat tour,and a rental car. St. Pierre and Miquelon getaways start at approxi-mately $482 including airfare from St. John’s—and Maxxim has ac-cess to low-cost airfares from across North America. And the teamat Maxxim is always willing to customize a package.Maxxim Vacations, 800-567-6666, www.maxximvacations.com

SPARKLING HILL RESORT OPENS ITS DOORSIN CANADA

Carved into a granite hillside, with its brilliant $122-million con-struction incorporating Swarovski crystal, Sparkling Hill Resortofficially opened this May in the Okanagan region of BritishColumbia. The resort is owned by Gernot Langes Swarovski, patri-arch of the famed Austrian crystal family.

The atrium involves an assembly of 15 large glass triangles withdifferent dimensions, sloping in different planes. The structure isover 42 feet wide and stands more than 55 feet above the secondfloor, its top edge more than four stories high.

Air travelers’ eyes catch reflections from the crystal over 12 milesaway, and those on the ground marvel at the light it displays.

The European-influenced resort is organic and modern both, withcool colors, natural fibers and creative use of $10 million inSwarovski crystal. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer stunning views ofLake Okanagan and the Monashee Mountains.

KurSpa is its focal point—over 40,000 square feet celebratingwhole body wellness. An entire wing has 48 treatment rooms and amultitude of saunas and steam rooms with different temperaturesand scents, textures and stimulants. The Kneipp Waterway pool isdesigned for strolling knee-deep in changing water temperatures. The outdoor infinity pool creates an illusion of dropping off towardLake Okanagan.

Many treatments are offered, most notably the first cold sauna in

North America (minus 166-degree temperatures). NorthAmericans will discover what Europeans have been enjoying foryears: total body cold therapy.

Hans-Peter Mayr, CEO and General Manager, predicts it will be-come one of North America’s premier wellness destination resorts.“Once you have experienced Sparkling Hill, you will be back everyyear; it will become a lifestyle choice,” he says.

Sparkling Hill Resort sits in a hub of year-round activities. The valley is recognized for its majestic mountains, refreshing waters, lush vineyards and world-class golf in one of the warmest climates in Canada.Sparkling Hill Resort, www.sparklinghill.com

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER OFFERS FREE HOTELNIGHT AT FAIRMONT VANCOUVER

Rocky Mountaineer is welcoming guests to enjoy a free hotel nightin the stunning coastal city of Vancouver as a part of their award-winning Western Canadian rail vacation.

Guests booking a Rocky Mountaineer tour in GoldLeaf Service ofthree nights or more or a RedLeaf service tour of five nights ormore from now until August 31, 2010, will be treated to an addi-tional free night at a luxurious Fairmont hotel in Vancouver eitherat the beginning or end of their trip.

“As a Vancouver-based company, we know that there is so muchfor our guests to experience and take in while in Vancouver,” saysHubert Wat, Vice President, Marketing of Rocky Mountaineer.“It’s a city unlike any other, and we’re delighted to give travelersan opportunity to extend their vacation in beautiful BritishColumbia with an additional night’s stay on us at one ofVancouver’s magnificent Fairmont properties.”

Western Canada offers some of the most spectacular scenery inthe world and Rocky Mountaineer provides the perfect way to seethe Canadian Rockies. To qualify for the additional free night’s stayat a Fairmont hotel in Vancouver, visitors must book a RockyMountaineer vacation package in GoldLeaf Service of three nightsor more or a RedLeaf service tour of five nights or more for at leasttwo adults. If travelers opt for GoldLeaf Service, they will travel ina custom-designed, two-story glass dome coach with panoramicviews. With RedLeaf Service, guests can settle back in roomy, re-clining seats with large picture windows providing passing views ofBritish Columbia and the beautiful Canadian Rockies.

Rocky Mountaineer packages on which this offer can be redeemedinclude the popular Canadian Rockies Adventure. This seven-night/eight-day trip includes a two-day, all daylight rail journeyaboard the renowned Rocky Mountaineer and several sightseeingtours in Banff National Park. Guests can venture out on a GlacierHelicopter tour, Summit Helicopter Flightseeing, as well as experi-ence the unique Columbia Icefield Excursion.

The offer is based on double occupancy by August 31 for travelbetween June and October 2010 and only valid on new bookings.Further restrictions may apply.Rocky Mountaineer, 800-665-7245, www.rockymountaineer.com

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