Birding Cadiz Province A QUICK GUIDE TO 12 TOP SITES

Cadiz is a very varied province with a diverse coastline, wetlands, farmlands,woodlands and mountains and a birdlife to match. Some specialities like CrestedCoot, White-headed & Marbled Duck Little and White-rumped Swift are found infew other parts of Spain and scarcely, if at all, elsewhere in Europe.

In spring and autumn the spectacle of huge numbers of migrating kites, vultures,eagles, etc. is rivalled by a only two or three sites in Europe and only a handfulmore worldwide. The dozen sites described here allow you to see most of the 'key'species to be found in the province.

These notes are a highly condensed version of my 114 page guide to birding inCadiz province area which is available on request. They cover the dozen mostinteresting areas for birding in Cadiz Province (although the inclusion of Alcala delos Gazules area is an indulgence as this is my base in the area, but it doesillustrate the kind of variety to be found around many Andalucian villages). Thisguide is free to private users (although an appropriate donation to the RSPB orSEO, or similar, would be appreciated).

Note that many maps/internet sources show differing road numbers (some roadshave up to three different numbers!) so use maps carefully. For further informationon birding in Cadiz province (and elsewhere in SW Spain) also see my webpage/blog - http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com.

Contact me via my web page (see above) as feedback always appreciated!

Good birding – John Cantelo

Please note that whilst I have done my utmost to provide accurate and current information and describeonly routes, trails and tracks that are safe to explore, things do change and I have not been able to revisit allsites regularly. Accordingly readers are strongly urged to check locally for current conditions and for anychanges in circumstances. I cannot accept responsibillity for any loss, injury or inconveniences sustained byreaders as a result of the information provided in this guide.

1 – Alcala & Molinos Valley 7 – Bahia de Cadiz (Cadiz Bay)

2 – Southern Alcornocales 8 – Barbate Area3 – Northern Alcornocales 9 – Benalup & La Janda4 – Laguna de Medina 10 – Bolonia Area5 – Sanlucar & Bonanza 11 – Tarifa & Raptors6 – Lagunas de Espera & 12 – Llanos de Libar &

Lebrija Grazalema

1 – Alcala and the Molinos Valley Alcala de los Gazules (a) has oneof the largest Lesser Kestrelcolonies in the area and, in earlyspring c100 birds can be seenhawking over the pueblo. Walk alongCalle Real and up to the Church atthe top of the village to get goodviews of this iconic species. Belowthe village a sendero follows the river– look for Golden Oriole here. Thevillage is on the edge of theAlcornocales Natural Park intowhich the Molinos valley (b) cuts. Inthe spring and summer check wires& posts for Bee-eater, Woodchat

Shrike, Serin, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark and Stonechat. Several pairs of Black-earedWheatear breed. At the end of the road a sendero heads into the hills which hold IberianChiffchaff plus Bonelli's & Sardinian Warbler, Firecrest, etc. Open areas have Cirl Buntingand rocky tops have Blue Rockthrush (plus Iberian Grey Shrike & Siskin on passage/in winter.Large numbers of Griffon Vultures spiral out of the mountains along the valley where otherraptors present include Peregrine, Booted & Short-toed Eagle. Both Egyptian Vulture andBonelli's Eagle are regular. The valley also has Little, Tawny, Barn and, less often, Eagle Owl.

The old track to Paterna (c) can hold scrubland birds and links to the CA 6200 along whichstands an isolated rocky outcrop (d) which has Eagle Owl also excellent for raptors (inc.Bonelli's Eagle) esp during passage. On the far side of the A381 the habitat around the ermita(e) and nearby tracks can be good for raptors (which can include Spanish Imperial Eagle holdsmany of the birds noted in the Molinos valley.

The A 2228 to Benalup provides good views over the Embalse de Barbate – check for Osprey& outside chance of Black-winged Kite. Check tamarisks here (and by the service road alongthe A381) for Olivaceous Warbler. The birds present here depends on the season and waterlevel, but look out for Spoonbill, Little Egret, Black-winged Stilt, Greenshank, etc. Largenumbers of hirundines (inc Red-rumped Swallow) & swifts (check for White-rumped Swift)possible on migration. The Lomo del Judio track (g) gives similar opportunities to check thereservoir.

The service road along the A 381 allows you to check birds in various habitats – one of the beststops is the Carrel Picacho-Piguera a cycle route c12km south of the service station allowsaccess to the woodlands which again hold the species noted under (b) but also offers a chance ofIberian Green Woodpecker (see 'Site 2' for further sites along this service road).

2 – Southern Alcornocales The lightly used service road alongside the A381 offers the opportunity to pull off and look for birds, pretty much at will, denied those travelling on the motorway. Woodchat Shrike, Bee-eaters, a wide range of raptors can easily be seen from the car. The more active might like to try some of the excellent footpaths (senderos) along this route:

a) - Sendero La Teja – take exit 66 (not onmap) - The footpath is on the left c1.7 km tothe south of the exit. It has a good mix of woodland and open land with views of the Alcornocales. Iberian Green Woodpecker,a scarce species in the southern part of theAlcornocales occurs here also Iberian Chiffchaff, Rock Bunting etc. Bonelli's Eagle occasional. This path links with a long distance cycle route.

b) - Sendero El Palancar – take exit 70 - this is circular route of c7 km is 2km south of this exit (by the Charco Redondo reservoir). It snakes through woodland and open land plus a couple of ancient cave shelters – good for all the species noted at other sites, but is probably better for passing raptors. c) - Sendero de Valdeinfierno – take exit 73 - A gem of the walk (5km) with wheelchair accessible footpath is on the right c1.5km from the exit. Either park on the track just off the serviceroad or drive c1km along the track to the wheelchair accessible walk. The walk explores a narrow shady valley (= ‘canuto’). The car park just off the road usually has Cirl Bunting and often Black-eared Wheatear. The woodland has Crested Tit, Iberian Chiffchaff, etc. An evening visit could conceivably produce Eagle & Scops Owl. d) Area Recreativa Montera del Torero. A little to the south of Valdeinfierno there’s a convenient wooded picnic site for Bonelli's Warbler, Iberian Chiffchaff, etc. e) Ojen Valley – take exit 73 or 77 for a classic drive across to Facinas with a couple of pleasant senderos en route. Superb for raptors (all expected species possible) and a site for White-rumped Swift, but track, despite recent repairs, has quickly degenerated and needs care. The old venta en route with earthen floors and caldron heated by wood give a taste of 'old Spain'. f) Los Barrios Rubbish tip – exit 80 for Los Barrios then the CA 9207 bearing left at the T-junction, Incredibly smelly, sometimes nauseously so, this tip attracts huge numbers of raptors (esp. Black Kite), White Storks, Cattle Egrets, etc. and, in autumn, often has Ruppell's Vulture

3 – Northern Alcornocales The sandstone mountians of the Alcornocales here are less rugged than those south of the A 381, but no less well clothed in cork oaks. Roads are narrow with few places to park. Site worth a stop include:- a) Picacho picnic site – the open woods have Serin, Short-toed Treecreeper, Bonelli's Warbler, Nuthatch, etc. If wet, the small pool along short signposted walk opposite the car park has Grey Wagtail. To do the longer climb up to Picacho and back (c2 hrs) needs permission; the peak has had Alpine Accentor in winter. b) San Jose turning – a decent viewpoint stands at the junction of the CA 2304 and a minor road to San Jose del Vallee. This site can

be good for a variety of raptors. There are few other places to pull off along this route, but the venta at the crossroads has excellent coffee and serves hearty food.c) La Sauceda – take the CA 8201 (C 3331 in Malaga province) towards Jimena and pull off at the very sharp bend (c4.5 km after the venta). Several paths explore the woodland here (species as noted for (a), but to explore the peak you need permission from the Park Visitors' Centre. Red-rumped Swallow nest below the bridge – White-rumped Swift sometimes present. d) Area Recreativa Los Acebuches – a small picnic site, offering similar fare to (a) and (b) makes a pleasant stop en route to Jimena. Starting point for several senderos.e) Jimena. This attractive village has Lesser Kestrel and Blue Rockthrush around the castle (sometimes also White-rumped Swift). Several senderos explore the valley here and a track heads into the hills to the south-west. Check Tourist Information for maps etc. f) Calle Pasada de Alcala track– this recently re-metalled track takes you up to radio masts with stupendous views – can be good for migrating raptors, etc. White-rumped Swift possible at bridge over river as you leave Jimena.g) Marchinella – this hamlet is so small it can easily be missed – look out for a white & purple sign opposite a small venta. Follow the track through the village to a large cactus hedge – Rufous Bushchat are possible here. If you're out of luck continue until you reach the top of a low hill and pull off. The road continues, but is in an extremely dangerous condition (2011) so check the rocky stream (dry in summer) to the left for Rufous Bushchat. Tawny Pipits are common here and Spanish Sparrow occurs.

4 – Laguna de Medina Note: since at least 2013 carp, apparently from a nearby fish farm, have colonised the laguna followingflooding. They have badly disrupted the site's ecology such that White-headed Duck (and other wildfowl)have been greatly reduced in number whilst Crested Coot is now rarely seen (and Common Coot greatlyreduced). If these two 'key' species are the target, concentrate on sites 5c & 5d and 6.

Laguna de Medina, now well signpostedoff the A 381 just south of Jerez, is thebest known, most accessible and easiestto find of the area's lagunas.

A good idea of the size of the lake can begained from the viewpoint (a) above thesmall white building and again furtheralong the same path there's secondviewpoint (b). However, the best place toobtain good views of wetland birds isalong the boardwalk that runs along thesouthern side of the laguna which givesviews over the reeds to the lagunabeyond. Wildfowl include both White-headed Duck (declining) and Red-crested Pochard (plus Ferruginous

Duck on passage). Great-crested Grebe are common and Black-necked Grebe frequent(although perhaps also in decline). Penduline Tit present in winter.

If the water level is low the site may attract waders (Black-winged Stilt, Collared Pratincole,etc). Fan-tailed Warbler, Stonechat and Corn Bunting are common. Stone-curlew are oftenheard in nearby fields (but hard to see). The tamarisks beside the boardwalk (c) hold OlivaceousWarblers, the scrub has Cetti's and Melodious Warblers Blackcap and Nightingale whilst thereeds are home to Great Reed Warbler. Less easily seen in the reeds are Purple Heron, LittleBittern, Purple Swamphen, etc. Check egrets for Great White Egret which is a regular visitor(esp. in winter/passage). During migration periods Whiskered, Black and, sometimes White-winged Black Terns may be present. If present, Crested Coot are often seen towards the endof the second boardwalk (d).

A hide (e) just off the path gives good views across the far end of the laguna and is another sitewhere Crested Coot have been seen in the past.

The lakeside footpath (sendero) now extends to a third boardwalk (f) which overlooks a marshyarea (Savi’s here in 2009). This area, which is sometimes good for raptors, can also be reachedby car (g) via the service road. Black-winged Kite now regular here. (Note - Rufuous BushChat only to be a migrant here as there are few recent reports in the breeding season).Interesting dragonflies include the attractive Violet Dropwing and Northern Banded Groundling– both recent colonists from Africa. .

5 – Sanlucar Area NOTE - The best way to approach this area is to take the 'ring road' road towards Trebujena, then take the turning back towards Sanlucar, but then immediately take a minor road NE [past (a)] and finally NW into Algaida. At the T-junction in the village go left for (b & c) & and right for (d, e, f & g); this route avoids the traffic & hassle of Sanlucar plus you can start birding sooner!

a) - ‘Martin Miguel’ pools – a good quick stop en route for Collared Pratincoles, terns & gulls.b) - Bonanza Salt Pans – well signposted off the Bonanza / Algaida road – now open access - follow thecauseway across the saltpans. Waders, Flamingo, Slender-billed Gull, terns (inc. Caspian) waders, raptors (inc. Red Kite), Black Stork(winter & passage). A very rough track beside the river is good for Spectacled Warbler, both ‘short-toed’ larks. Look for Spanish Imperial Eagle across the river overCoto.

c) - ‘Bonanza Pools’ – take the Camino Truncosa’ (opposite a bus stop & near a large white industrial building).

This is the best site for good views of White-headed Duck, Purple Gallinule, & Little Bittern. Marbled Teal sometimes present and Crested Coot has bred. d) - Laguna Tarelo & Pinar de Algaida - the laguna is a well known White-headed Duck site & heronry - view from path through woods or off the last road on the left before the woods (Camino ‘N’). Squacco, Night Heron etc & Spoonbill. Look for elusive Azure-winged Magpie in these woodlands (only site in province); large colony of Black Kites. e) – Los Portugueses salt pans – track swings left along river; track & saltings are good for larks esp. Lesser and ‘Greater’ Short-toed; with Pin-tailed Sandgrouse possible with luck. Track (4x4 only)/footpath links with (b).

f) – Codo de la Esparraguera these pools c50m along and to the north of this road is a reliable site for Marbled Duck when water level is low good this is a good for waders, Spoonbill, Flamingo, etc.g) – Guadalquivir road – check along a good metalled road towards Tebujena for pratincoles, Gull-billed Tern, harriers, kites, larks, Tawny Pipit, etc. Bluethroat winter in wet ditches here. h) – Adventus marshes (accessed by track just north of large white finca) can be alive with wadersafter a wet spring. Scan for raptors. Ditches good for herons & feeding terns (Gull-billed &Whiskered) . i) Trebujena Marshes - tracks off main Sanlucar-Trebujena A471 worth exploring for waders,Glossy Ibis, larks &, with luck, Pin-tailed Sandgrouse.j) - Mesa de Asta Marsh – park on track to east of A 2000 Jerez road & walk along track then takefootpath towards the marsh. Often holds birds (e.g. Lapwing, godwits) that can be elusive elsewhere(esp in dry conditions). A large flocks of of Whiskered & Gull-billed Terns may be present. Goodarea for Collared Pratincoles, Montagu's Harrier, Red-rumped Swallow, etc Gull-billed Ternsoften fly back and forth across this area giving good photographic opportunities. Further south alarge area of poor quality, often flooded farmland since it looks ideal for Pin-tailed Sandgrouse …...

6 - Lagunas de Espera & Lebrija

These lagunas are c14-16 km north of Arcos de la Frontera to the NW of Espera. Espera is the better known site, but the Lagunas de Lebrija attract the same species and, being closer to a metalled road, are easier to reach. Head for Espera taking the minor road (CA 6100) towards Cabezas San Juan at the northern edge of the village and then after just over 1 km take the signposted track to the reserve. This track is currently (2014) in poor condition so take care. The fields here are often good for larks (inc. Calandra) and, in winter, raptors (inc. juv. Bonelli's and sometimes Spanish Imperial Eagle). After c5 km a small white building marks the location of Laguna Hondilla (a) . This lagunais very overgrown but still holds Black-necked Grebe and possibly Crested Coot (present 2006). About 500m beyond Laguna Hondilla a

footpath runs alongside Laguna Salada towards Laguna Dulce. Laguna Salada may have White-headed Duck, Red-crested Pochard, etc., but views are distant. Although small, LagunaDulce is arguably the best site in the province for Crested Coot - look from a small elevated often overgrown watchpoint to the right of the path. Carefully scrutinise the corner to your near left and the back of the laguna. They can be picked up with binoculars if you know the species, but a good 'scope is recommended. Continue along the track to reach the SE 6201 (alternatively reach this area directly using CA6100 &/or SE6201).

To the north along the SE6201 is Laguna de Pilon (d) - usually least interest and most liable todry out (although Little Ringed Plover may be present). The other lagunas are signposted downa rough, but easily drivable track which is a continuation of that running to the Lagunas deEspera. However, these lagunas iare next to the track so no walking is needed. The first onealong the track is Laguna de la Galiana (e) which, when not too shallow, may hold a range ofbirds. (A third laguna, Laguna de la Pena, is just visible from the track, but seems inaccessible).However, although viewing can be obscured by reeds and tamarisks, Laguna de Cigarrera (f) isusually excellent. It holds both White-headed Duck and Crested Coot with the latter sometimesviewable at close range (unlike other sites a scope may not be necessary to pick out thisspecies). The dense tamarisks has a good population of Olivaceous Warbler and often attractsroosting Spanish Sparrow. Both Purple and Squacco Heron occur and Black-winged Kitealso present in this area. Since it is only a short distance from a good road and involves nowalking, this is a better option than Lagunas de Espera for those pushed for time, particularly ifarriving from the NIV or Gibalbin. A fifth lake, Laguna de Taraje (g), not to be confused withanother laguna of the same name near Puerto Real, is strictly private and too far from the road tobe viewable.

7 – Bahia de Cadiz (Cadiz Bay)

This huge (10,500 hectares) complex of salinas, creeks and mudflatsrepresents a rare habitat in Spain and is consequently greatly celebrated bySpanish birdwatchers. In winter totals of waterfowl, waders, gulls, terns etc.may reach 140,000 birds and may include Great White Egret (30-35), BlackStork (20-30), Flamingo (c5,000), Spoonbill (300+), Osprey (c30), Stone-curlew (c300), Slender-billed Gull (250+ in good years), Audouin’s Gull(70+ in good years), Mediterranean Gull (<450) and Caspian Tern (c120)plus more familiar species like Dunlin (<30,000), both godwits (c2-3,000 ofeach), Curlew (<1,000), Grey Plover (c3,000), Ringed Plover (c6,000),Redshank (c3,000) plus smaller numbers of Whimbrel, Greenshank, CurlewSandpiper and Knot. Resident Black-winged Stilt, Avocet and KentishPlover are present in their thousands. (Note - figures in brackets show theapprox. wintering population taken from "Guia de Aves acuaticas y marimasdel Parque Natural Bahia de Cadiz”). However, other sites (notably Sanlucar-Bonanza) are more accessible, offer many of the same birds (albeit in smallernumbers), closer views and some specialities less easy to find in Cadiz Bay.The size of this area can be daunting, but leaflets on the area’s footpaths orsenderos (see - http://adsise.com/) may help. Nearby, the Lagunas delPuerto de Santa Maria & Laguna de Paja hold freshwater species.Seawatch from Cadiz itself.

For the bay itself see - a) - Marismas de los Toruños & Pinar de La Algaida – an abandoned building project has left a track along the spine of the Toruños peninsula and a footbridge links to 'mainland'. An information centre, a good beach, a noddy train along the old track and cycle hire make this a possible option for a birder with a family – the woodland across the channel has Chameleon. b) - Salinas de Santa Maria – although lessattractive than other sites, these salinas are only 15 mins from Laguna de Medina (take El Portal road past cement works then go right at crossroads). The nearby tip has had Eagle Owl in the past, but the main interest are waders, gulls, etc (see above) and short-toed larks (both species). Further along the CA313 open pine woodlands - Dehesa de las Yeguas - have Red-necked Nightjar (the track here continues intothe area, but is in very poor condition). ............................................ c) - Tres Amigos Salinas are well signposted off the road at the western edge of San Fernando to Punta del Boqueron a good variety of waders (Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Kentish Plover, godwits, etc), gulls (inc. Slender-billed and Audouin’s), Flamingo, Spoonbill, etc. d) - Punta del Boqueron – good visitors' centre & display. The base of the spit can be good for migrants. The light favours a seawatch see from tip in morning (Balearic & Cory's Shearwater, terns etc) and scanning mudflats in afternoon. e) – Old Sancti Petri – across the channel from Boqueron, a narrow spit with old fishing sheds offers viewsover mudflats in morning; footpath round the nearby salinas, opposite Calle Santa Maria la Morgarizas is good for waders, Osprey(winter), etc

Other nearby sites:- f) – Lagunas del Puerto de Santa Maria – this complex of three lagunas can hold Ferruginous & W-h Duck, Purple Gallinule, Crested Coot and Bl-n Grebe; the two largest & deepest lagunas are difficult to view, but the first shallow laguna can offer all the species & excellent viewing after a wet spring. g) – Laguna de Paja – often dry, but after a very wet spring this laguna just off the old N IV SE of Chiclana holds all the birds notedabove. Access tricky so park nearby and, with care, walk along old main road (NIV) to access path. h) – Cadiz – try a morning seawatching from the city walls during onshore winds or catch the ferry over to El Puerto.

8 - Barbate & Cabo de Trafalgar

The Barbate estuarybeing much smaller thanCadiz Bay holds fewerbirds, but is generallymore accessible andmore easily explored.

Take the A314 south frombelow Vejer de la Fronteraand pull off on the leftafter c2km. Here asendero loops round thewhole area, butfortunately the mostinteresting habitat in the

'upper marshes' is a series of small pools (a) within 1 km of the road. Look here for Glossy Ibis,Purple Swamphen, Black-winged Stilts and sandpipers. Continuing towards Barbate you canpick up the path (b) again by continuing past a petrol station, all the way round the roundaboutback towards Vejer turning down the first track on your right into the pines. The sendero here (b)takes you out along a wide channel overlooking the marshes – check for waders, etc.

In Barbate head towards Zahara on the A2231 pulling off on the left after you cross the river andhead back to explore the river mouth and lower marshes (c) or press on (c2 km) to do so from (d)for gulls (Auduoin's & Mediterranean often present), terns (Caspian passage & winter) andwading birds (Kentish Plover, Spoonbill, etc). Further along this road (e) look for the recentlyintroduced Bald Ibis on the grasslands to the right. Their colony on the cliffs by the A 314 at LaBaja de Vejer is now a well known local sight.

Alternatively turn towards Canos de Meca – there are several tracks and footpaths along thisroad (f) to be explored. Although the pine woods tend to have a limited variety of birds, raptorsoften pass over. Views from the old watch tower here are excellent – check swifts for Pallid – butnote that the unique egret colony that was once on the cliffs here is no more. Closer to Canos deMeca the woods can carpeted with orchids in Feb/March

Pass through Canos de Meca and turn left for Trafalgar. Park by the junction and walk c1 km todown to the lighthouse (g). Check the beach for Audouin's Gull. In mornings the light is good forseawatching here look for Cory's & Balearic Shearwaters, skuas, terns, etc. plus wind blownraptors or storks. 'Visible migration' in autumn here can be superb with swallows, martins,larks, finches etc passing within touching distance (but note presence of bird trappers indune/scrub to the north). A leaflet on the area is down loadable from http://adise.com)

9 – Benalup AreaArriving via the A 2228 (from Alcala & theA 381) stop just before Benalup near thebridge on a sharp bend for MelodiousWarbler and Spanish Sparrow. Theroad zig-zags just before you drive up thehill into the village and a track turns off tothe right. This part of the CorredorVerde de Dos Bahias (a), which runsparallel to the A 2225, is closed to'unauthorised' vehicles, but can bewalked. Access further along the routecan be gained via tracks along the A2225; one opposite Venta la Casilla andanother off a sharp bend in Los Badalejos.These two tracks are particularly good forLittle Bustard, Stone-Curlew, Black-

winged Kite, Montagu's Harrier, Hoopoe, etc.

Although better approached from Cantarranas, tracks south of the A 2225 take you through old olivegroves (b) which hold Red-necked Nightjar (esp. near crossroads). This area also has Eagle Owl

(although very hard to see) and the farmland beyond has all the species noted for the CorredorVerde (and is a very reliable site for Black-winged Kite).

Further east of Benalup on the A 2226 there's a large 'area recreativa' (c) and although the reservoirhere can be dull, it's worth visiting for the nearby rock paintings in the hills above (Tajo de las Figuras)The minor road to Embalse Barbate can be good for raptors. Nearer Benalup a concrete track headssouth towards La Janda – this track is badly cratered so take care! After c5km you reach a bridge(below which Red-rumped Swallow often breed) and nearby marshy areas (d) – check here forPurple Swamphen and, in winter, Bluethroat. From here you have a choice; straight on along thecaňada real (royal droveway) towards Facinas (c18 km) or turn right uphill towards the old finca andthe rice paddies beyond. The old caňada (e), repaired in 2012, is excellent for Calandra Lark, Black-winged Kite, Bee-eaters, raptors (inc. Black-winged Kite, Bonelli's Eagle, Spanish ImperialEagle) and there a possiblity of Little Bustard. The right-hand track (initially deceptively wellmetalled) takes you along a ridge and then to the wetter areas. The ridge esp. near the old finca ( f)can be a good place to scan for raptors. Drop down to the weir and follow the track beside a willowchoked ditch (g); in spring/summer there's an active egret colony (Glossy Ibis, Cattle & Little) hereaffording got photographic opportunities.

At the T-junction follow the track left (h) or right (i) or left depending on the current location of thewetter areas. Crane winter here (view from higher land near the Zahara turning) as do many White,and a few Black, Stork. Wet areas excellent for waders (sandpipers, Dunlins, 'shanks, etc),Spoonbill and herons (all species possible here during passage). This is a staging area for hugenumbers of raptors during migration – and hundreds of Black Kites, Griffon Vultures, many Short-toed & Booted Eagles, Montagu's Harriers can be seen plus rarities (Eleonora's & Lanner Falcon,Long-legged Buzzard, etc).

10 – Bolonia The Bolonia area has a good mix of birds since it has a good range of habitats including shoreline, woodland, old olive groves, scrub, poor agricultural land, rocky crags. Not only that, but it is also on a migration route for raptors, a well known site for both Little and White-rumped Swift and Rufous Bushchat. Exploring this area on foot is made easier by anumber of good footpaths described on an excellent new leaflet (see -http://adsise.com/).

a) - The olive scrub along the N 340 sometimesholds Rufous Bushchat. Check all paths and

tracks along this route. The Hotel San Juan de la Rivera makes convenient stop for good reasonably priced tapas. b) – a minor road runs SE from her to Betis (another further along to El Chaparral seems less interesting). This road allows access, via several footpaths to the slopes of the massive crag of San Bartolome (420+m). The slopes here are worth a careful exploration. Storks and raptors tend to drift along this ridge and the woods can hold migrants – once again keep a sharp eye open for Rufous Bushchat . c) - Puerto de Bolonia” at the top of the ridge hosts an ‘official’ raptor watchpoint. In stronger easterly winds, there can be a good passage of raptors (Black Kite, Booted & Short-toed Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Griffon Vulture, etc.) and storks. Swifts (Common, Pallid & Alpine) and hirundines also hawk along this ridge. The track running NW along the ridge is worth exploring – for birds such as Tawny Pipit, Black-eared Wheatear and Rufous Bushchat . d) – El Lentiscal - a variety of fast food outlets and bars at Bolonia allow you to watch raptor migration or seabird passage (Cory’s and Balearic Shearwaters, Gannets, etc) in comfort. e) - Baelo Claudia - an important archaeological site (entrance free) - is worth checking for obliging Black-eared Wheatear, Sardinian Warbler and Stonechat. f) – Laja de la Zarga – take the road above Baelo Claudia turning right at a sharp bend onto a smalltwisting concrete track. After c3 km park near a small farm and go left up a track to a hide facing amassive cliff face (c200m) which has breeding Griffon and Egyptian Vultures plus Bonelli's Eagle. g) – Punta Carmarinal - beyond the turning for Laja de la Zarga, pull off on into a small 'mirador' on the left & then take the track down to the lighthouse below. View across the bay for Audouin’sGull, Cory’s & Balearic Shearwater. h) - Cueva del Moro - continuing up the road to the rocky peaks of the Sierra de la Plata, pull off to your right. Above (and to your left) there's a small cave which is a classic site for White-rumped Swift (although they are often elusive). Little Swift may also be present giving you a chance of seeing 5 swift species. Also present are Egyptian Vulture, Griffon Vulture . Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting, Golden Oriole etc. i) Atlanterra – the smart villas here can be good for both White-rumped & Little Swift – access via the N 340 and the new road avoiding the old village of Zahara de Los Atunes. Park at a small car park c250m after the hotel complex in Atlanterra).

11 - Raptor passage & Tarifa Area See table below for migrants and peak periods. Watching the spring/autumn passage of raptors can be done anywherealong this coast, but the best locations are off the N340. Most of these sites are accessible only from one direction (iefrom the direction of either Tarifa or Algeciras) on this busy road. The table below gives some idea of the species toexpect here. Ruppell's Vulture regular in autumn [esp. b) & i)].

a) Puntas Carnero & Secreta (esp.spring) b) El Algarrabo (Km 99) approachapproach from Algeciras or, if drivingfrom Tarifa, pull off at nearbyMarchenilla across the road. c) Huerte Grande (km 95) – approachfrom either direction. Good sendero tocoast & excellent interpretive centre. d) El Bujeo (Km 95) – approach fromthe Algeciras. Good walks into the hills.e) El Carton – this up market estate

has superb views over the straits &senderos run into the hills from here(approach from Algeciras).f) Mirador de Estrecho – classic touriststop (from Tarifa), but good for birds too!g) Cabrito (Km 90.7) – approach fromAlgeciras – marred by surrounding windfarm, but track into hills.h) Guadalmesi (Km 89.5) – approachfrom Algeciras. Park on road and taketrack to 'observatario' for stunning views. i) Cazalla (Km 87) - 'temporary'watchpoint approached from Tarifa & apurpose built (but never fully opened!)watchpoint accessible from Algeciras.THE classic watchpoint. j) Trafico (Km 85) – approach from Tarfia. An excellent site with new raptor warching centre – cover here is excellentfor passerine migrantsk) Tarifa town – take whale watching trips here – Cory's Shearwater etc.

l) Playa de los Lances – pull off opposite the CEPSA petrol station or first right as you enter Tarifafrom the west. Raptor migration plus Short-toed Lark Tawny Pipit, waders, Auduoin's Gull and THE site for rare migrant Lesser Crested Ternm) Santuario de la Luz – migrants etc. Check here for Rufous Bushchat.

12 – Llanos de Libar & GrazalemaAn area of limestone hills, the Grazalema Natural Park, has a very different character from the Alcornocales which is reflected in its flora & fauna. It is home to several pairs of Golden Eagle , a gooddensity of Bonelli's Eagle and the occasional BlackVulture. Warblers include Subalpine, Spectacled, Orphean, Dartford, etc and it is home to both rockthrush. It has good populations of Rock Sparrow and Black Wheatear. Alpine Accentor winter and Wallcreeper are occasional.

a) Llanos de Libar is without doubt the best single destination. Go through Montejaque heading north taking the last road on the left (Av de Europa) back into the village and then turn sharp right up an incline along a rough track which heads c17 km into the mountains (NB closed to vehicles during the summer). Check the crags above the village (near

a white building) for Bonelli's Eagle. Continue to a small pool beside the track overlooking a stony field – a good place for Common & Blue Rockthush. Further along a rocky 'saddle' has Black Redstart, Black & Black-eared Wheatear, Rock Sparrow and, in winter, Alpine Accentors. Cross the cattle grid here and continue up the slope to look for Orphean & Subalpine Wablers. After dropping down into farmland continue through oak woodland (Bonelli's Warbler, Redstart, etc.) to an open area around the 'Refugio de Libar' (Chough, Iberian Grey Shrike). b) Montejaque – tracks and senderos near the village can also be good for raptors & BlackWheatear. c) Cueva del Gato – good for Alpine Swift & Crag Martind) Cueva de la Pileta - a non-birding 'must stop' for neolithic cave paintingse) Cortes de la Frontera – several footpaths climb into the hills here. One (at far side of villagebehind school) heads to towards Llanos de Libar (raptors, Orphean Warbler, etc.)f) Benaocaz area - the CA 9124 climbs steeply up from Ubrique through bare rocky habitats –check where you can pull off for Black & Black-eared Wheatears, Thekla Lark, warblers, etcg) Mirador de Cintillo - Firecrest, Rock Bunting, Black Wheatear & raptorsh) Grazalema – White-rumped Swift possible over village; surrounding fields have BlackWheatear. Check around junction of A 372/CA 9124 for Iberian Grey Shrike & Iberian GreenWoodpeckeri) Puerto de las Palomas - Rock Bunting &, in winter, Alpine Accentorj) Sendero to El Torreon – at 1654m the climb up to El Torreon is a stiff one, but AlpineAccentors present in winter/spring/autumn check for warblers. The many senderos in Grazalemaare best tackled with a good map, one of several guidebooks and, not least, appropriateequipment.k) Benamahoma – various senderos from here head through woodland (listen for GoldenOriole) and into the park, but note that permission is needed from the park authorities for severalof these. l) Villaluenga del Rosario – check the track NE of the village for Thekla Lark, Iberian GreyShrike, etc.

Notes on Selected Species Note – phenology table given for summer/winter visitors

Cory's Shearwater - Commonly seen off the coast year round. See sites 8, 10 & 11Levantine Shearwater - Formerly a common late summer visitor – now much rarer. Balearic Shearwater - Commonly seen off the coast year round. See sites 8, 10 & 11Cattle Egret - Abundant - excellent views may be had of the colony on La Janda site 9. Little Egret - disperse less widely dispersed than Cattle Egret & are more restricted to wetlands, but

still commonGreat White Egret - much increased species which is frequently met with in any of the ‘marismas’

particularly (although not exclusively) in winter. In Cadiz Bay (NW14/15) numbers have risen from a small handful in 2000 to 35+ in 2010; a change reflected throughout the area. Has bred.See sites 4, 5 & 7.

Purple Heron - Found in all areas with sufficient reeds to provide nesting habitat, but more widespreadon migration. See sites 4, 5 & 7

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Squacco Heron - Probably the rarest of the small herons – site 5 (Laguna de Tarelo).JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Night Heron - A widespread if often localised species found at most sites with suitable habitat. A handful winter (esp. in the Guadalquivir valley) – see site 5 (Laguna de Tarelo).

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Little Bittern - Can be surprisingly elusive for such an apparently widespread bird – see sites 4 & 5c . Rarely winters.

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Black Stork - A frequent passage migrant & few birds winter (75+?). See sites 5, 9 & 11. White Stork - Abundant – now winters in good numbers. Bald Ibis - Introduced species. Look along the coast south of Barbate See site 8.Glossy Ibis - Greatly increased flocks of several hundred. Breds La Janda. See sites 5 & 9 Flamingo - Unmissable on the shallow saline lagoons of the area See sites -5,7 & 8).Marbled Teal - A scarce and often elusive species; best site Codo de la Esparraguera Site 5White-headed Duck – found in most shallow lagoons in the area – larger numbers in winter.

See sites 4, 5 & 6Black-winged Kite – Now widespread resident - see sites 4, 6 & 9 (La Janda esp good).Rüppell’s Vulture - Annual rarity esp. Aug – Oct; see Los Barrios tip & Med. coast See sites 2 & 11.Long-legged Buzzard – African race cirtensis rare but regular & has bred.Spanish Imperial Eagle Now breeding again in the area following a successful re-introduction

programme. See La Janda site 9.Bonelli's Eagle Grazalema a stronghold - rarely missed in the Llanos de Libar (site 12). Lesser Kestrel – Breeds in villages; common and widespread, but esp. Alcalá de los Gazules

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Barbary Partridge - Population on Gibraltar now very scarce. Crested Coot - Most regular site now Lagunas de Espera (site 6); now scarce to the point of

invisibility at Lagunas de Medina (Site 4). Great Bustard - extinct in the province – the nearest population now around Osuna (Seville).Little Bustard – elusive small population around Benalup & on La Janda (Site 9); also present in the

area near Osuna (Seville). Audouin's Gull - seen almost anywhere along the coast. See sites 5, 7, 8 & 11). Slender-billed Gull - Bonanza salt pans (Site 5) is usually the best spot for this species. Gull-billed Tern - Mesas de Asta Marsh (see site 5NW3) is undoubtedly the best site to see this

species, but it can be observed anywhere along the Guadalquivir in spring/summer. JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Caspian Tern - A widespread if scarce migrant & wintering species - c100 in Cadiz Bay (site 7) in autumn/winter). Sometimes breeds Bonanza 2009 (Site 5).

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JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Lesser-crested Tern - small numbers of migrants pass through in spring and rather more (but still in relatively few) in late summer/autumn: Playa de los Lances (Site 11) is the best location.

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Whiskered Tern - fairly common on Bonanza & Mesas de Asta (site 5); more widespread on passage.JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse - Very elusive - best looked for Feb/March. Found along the Guadalquivir, Trebujena marshes (Site 5).

Black-bellied Sandgrouse - nearest site is around Osuna (Seville)Little Swift - A new colonist – reported from Malaga, Algeciras, the mouth of the Guadalquivir Sierra

de la Plata (Site 10) and sierras beyond Seville. Resident species.White-rumped Swift - Originally colonised Sierra de la Plata, but now thinly spread in Alcornocales and Grazalema (3, 10 & 12).

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC?

Bee-eater - widespread bird, esp. common during migration. The lovely rippling liquid notes mean that they are more often heard before they are seen.

JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Roller - regular passage migrant – nearest regular breeding in Seville province. JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

? ?

Hoopoe – a common migrant & breeding bird (See sites 9, 10 & 11). A few winter. JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Iberian Green Woodpecker A good bet for a ‘split’ - common in Grazalema (Site 2). Short-toed Lark - More widespread and catholic in its habits than Lesser being found on open pasture,

dried muddy area. Abundant on Bonanza/Trebujena Marshes (Site 5) JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Lesser Short-toed Lark - resident best sites along the Guadalquivir (Site 5) Thekla Lark – replaces Crested Lark in upland & rocky areas (but also found in lowlands) See site12 Rufous Bushchat A declining species with local strong holds around Los Palacios-Marchena

(Seville) -see my full site guide abd Tarifa-Bolonia coast (Site 10). JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Black Wheatear A declining resident; look in Grazalema (Site 12). Olivaceous Warbler - Common in tamarisk scrub Laguna de Cigarrera (Site 6), Laguna de Medina

(Site 4) and the river valley near Montejaque esp. below Cueva del Gato (Site 12)JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Orphean Warbler Found on open hillsides dotted with olive trees esp. Llanos de Libar (12).JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

Iberian Chiffchaff - Common in woodlands of the Alcornocales & Grazalema (1, 2 , 3 & 12).JAN FEB MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

? ?

Common Chiffchaff – passage & winter visitor.

Common Bulbul – a North African species which has bred in Tarifa since 2013. Azure-winged Magpie - In Cadiz restricted to La Algaida pine woods, but hard to find. See site 5d. Spanish Sparrow - Increasing; see Benalup, La Janda, Espera area etc. See sites 6 & 9Rock Sparrow - Common in Llanos de Libar Site 12.Spotless Starling – the starling of the area, (although it was very scarce in the southern part of Cadiz

until the 1920s). Remember, though, that ‘our’ version is found in winter. Given the brazen nature of its cousin, it tends to be oddly shy and wary.

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Books & useful websites

Field Guides Collins Bird Guide – the authoritative identification guide to Europe's birds Birds of the Straits of Gibraltar (Guia de Aves del Estrecho de Gibraltar) (OrniTour) …..

a bilingual field guide to the southern part of the province with detailed local distribution maps, data on migration, etc – a 'must have' book on the area. .

- Guia de las Aves de Espana – (Lynx) only available in Spanish, but good large illustrations, larger more detailed maps and easily understood details on population, migration, etc

Site guides Where to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain (3rd Edition) by Garcia & Paterson 2008)

Where to Watch Birds in Doñana (Chiclana & Garzon (Lynx).

All visitors to this area should have the Garcia & Paterson guide, but the Lynx book is very useful for theSanlucar area and if you plan a visit to the other side of the Guadalquivir (soon to be made easier by a newring road south of Seville).

The Nature Guide to the Sierras of the South (Crossbill) – a guide to all aspects of natural history witha number of interesting itineraries.

See also “Birding Cadiz Province” - my full birding notes on the area (inc. sites in Seville province)

Birding Information & Useful websites

http://birdingcadizprovince.weebly.com/ - this is my webpage on the area & where I post updates,trip reports, photos, notes on ID, etc.

http://www.andaluciabirdsociety.com/ – the recently established Andalucía Bird Society website is agood place to start particularly if you want detailed information about the region and its birds.

http://adsise.com/ - for downloadable leaflets on the region.

www.gbnet.gi/~gonhs - Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society's site; a good source ofinformation esp. on migrating raptors.

www.rarebirdspain.net - frequently updated site on rare birds in Spain (in English & Spanish)

www.visitatrafalgar.com/en/birdwatching – downloadable guide to birdwatching in the area

Professional Bird Guides

Although finding your own birds is fun, if short of time, confidence, expertise or simply wanting it ‘on a plate’, I’d recommend using the following local guides:

Peter Jones is based near Ronda (Malaga Province) and has an intimate knowledge of the area. His webpage also contains a wealth of information on the region (see www.spanishbirds.com).

Yeray Seminario (yeray@birdingthestrait.com) & Javi Elorriaga (javi@birdingthestrait.com) – both world class birders and fluent English speakers have recently combined forces to form 'Birding the Strait' (birdingthestrait.com) which runs birding/photography tours in Spain & Morocco. Yeray is also a partner in Whitehawk Birding (http://whitehawkbirding.com). Javi Elorriagais (see also Tarifa Bird Tours http://tarifabirdingtours.com/ & https://www.facebook.com/javi.elorriaga) is THE expert on cirtensis Long-legged Buzzard. Both are great company

LuisMi Garrido Padillo is a personal friend so I'm biased, but he's great company and expert birder/photographer based in Jerez. His newly established company Andalusian Birding Holidays (http://andalusianbirdingholidays.com/en/) specialises in walking senderos, birdwatching and, particularly, bird photography. Access to specially provided hides.

Andrew Fortuna, based in Gibraltar, offers birdwatching tours, bird photography & digiscoping work- shops and nature walks in Gibraltar & Spain & Morocco. See his website http://www.aviantours.net/

Text, maps & photos © John Cantelo 2015

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