The Manufacturing Confectioner • March 2014 29

The Heirloom Cacao Preserva-tion Initiative (HCP) has desig-nated four stands of cacao trees asHeirloom quality:

Alto Beni, Bolivia, and Tranquili-dad Estate, Bolivia • Both pro-vided by Volker Lehmann ofFrontier Ventures Bolivia

Hacienda Limon, Ecuador • Pro-vided by Samuel von Rutte,ORECAO SA

Maunawili, Hawaii • Providedby Daniel O’Doherty, CacaoServices Agricultural & Scien-tific Consulting

These Heirloom designations arethe HCP’s first steps toward real-izing its mission: to identify thefinest-flavor cacaos and link theirflavor to genetics for naturalreproduction, while preservingand propagating them; and recog-nizing and rewarding the growerswho cultivate them.

“The pioneering work of theHCP is an important tool in theglobal effort to promote sustain-ability,” says Gary Guittard, presi-dent of the Guittard ChocolateCompany, “as we are identifyingthe fine-flavor cacaos around theworld before they are lost to high-production varieties that lackfine-flavor characteristics.”

Heirloom DesignationThe HCP designation is based ona several-kg sample of beans. Assuch, it applies to a stand of treesthat are genetically fingerprintedthrough the USDA and GPSlocated as part of the leaf sampling.The designation then applies to

the beans in the future from thisproductive stand of trees.

Designation ProcessThe HCP is a not-for-profit col-laboration between the FineChocolate Industry Association(FCIA) and the U.S. Departmentof Agriculture’s AgriculturalResearch Service. The HCP is self-funded by a worldwide group ofsmall, medium and large chocolatemakers and manufacturers.Staffing is largely volunteer. Whengrowers do not have relationshipswith manufacturers or other well-funded industry people, the HCParranges for bursary sponsorshipsto support those growers throughthe HCP process. All the growersneed to do is provide the beans forthe HCP to evaluate and allowaccess to their trees once the desig-nation is made and the evaluationprocess is complete.

Connecting genetics to flavor isa crucial innovation, yet nogenetic initiative has ever focusedon flavor until the FCIAlaunched the Heirloom CacaoPreservation Initiative in 2012.

Throughout its process, theHCP follows a strict set of proto-cols, all of which are publiclyavailable in English, Spanish,French and Portuguese. TheHCP lab at Guittard Chocolateblindly processes all submissionsfor an acclaimed internationaltasting panel of chocolate special-ists. A detailed report is then pro-vided to the applicant and theUSDA/ARS performs a site visitand genetic analysis to map the

Cacao Trees Receive Heirloom Designation

Volker Lehmann left his native Germany forBolivia 13 years ago. Born on a farm, he nowlives in the jungle with the farmers, speakstheir language and understands their cul-ture. He uses their wet beans and box fer-ments them for sale in Europe and Australia.

Samuel von Rutte was born in Switzerland.He left his native country for Ecuador 25years ago. He lives with his family amongthe farmers and grew and processed theseHeirloom beans. He makes bulk chocolatein Ecuador, which he sells in Europe, theUnited States and other markets, along withhis beans.

Daniel O’Doherty moved to Hawaii nineyears ago and began his work with cacaothroughout the Hawaiian Islands five yearsago. He works with farmers on the island ofOahu to buy wet beans which he fermentsand dries. The demand for his beans cur-rently exceeds the supply and they are onlyavailable in Hawaii.