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Lesvos Spring 2017 By Sue and Steve Wilce

20th – 27th May 2017

We decided at the last minute to take a week in the sunshine and Lesvos was an obvious

choice because although the main bird migration was over there are always some nice birds

to be seen on Lesvos. We always say that the worst birding day on Lesvos is better than a

good day back home. For this type of trip it’s easier and cheaper to book a package deal and

we chose Thomas Cook for this reason.

We left home at 08.30 for a two hour, uneventful drive to Birmingham Airport for our 13.55

flight to Mytilene. However, after checking in and boarding the aircraft we were told that a

passenger no longer wanted to fly to Mytilene and his luggage would have to be found and

taken off the plane. This resulted in a most unwelcome delay of an hour for all on board - he

was not a popular man. We knew immediately that this would result in us arriving at our

hotel in darkness. We normally take the quiet road around the Geras Peninsular to avoid

Mytilene but this is not recommended in darkness so we had to endure the Mytilene

mayhem.

We hired a car from Tsalis car rental, a popular and reliable rental company on Lesvos that

we have used on previous visits. Despite our flight delay we were met at the airport by the

car hire representative. We signed the paperwork, declining the CDW option because we

have learned by experience that it is best to take out CDW insurance in this country prior to

travelling. It saves money and is more reliable.

We left the airport in rapidly failing light at about 22.30 Lesvos time. Despite having our own

Sat Nav programmed for our destination, which worked well, there is no preparing for the

drive through Mytilene’s infamous one way system. Driving through extremely busy

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Saturday night traffic in badly lit streets with scooters and motorbikes over and undertaking

is a veritable nightmare. This was compounded by the Sat Nav telling us to turn left and

finding that there was ‘No Left Turn’ etc. Finally we navigated our way out, more by luck

than judgement and found ourselves on the dual carriage way to our destination of Skalla

Kalloni.

We had chosen to stay at the Pasiphae Hotel on this occasion because of its association with

the birding community. We were quickly shown to our room where we dumped our luggage

and headed toward the pool bar for a much earned cold beer. We had booked an in-flight

meal because we knew it would be too late for food at the hotel. Later we unpacked our

luggage and turned in for the night.

Weather

The sun shone every day and temperatures rose as the week progressed, reaching the low

30’s. By 10.00 am it was too hot for birding some days, so we made sure that we were out

by 6.00 am and went out in the evening when it was a bit cooler. On Friday we saw dark

clouds and lightning flashes in the hills above Skalla Kalloni and we drove through a storm

which was centred around Mount Olympus on the way to the airport on Saturday

afternoon.

Sites Visited and Directions

Information about most of the sites we visited was obtained from Steve Dudley’s Birdwatching in Lesvos and from our previous experience of the island, but we were directed to some places by other birders Tsiknias River We came here every day, morning and evening as you never knew what would turn up Kalloni Salt Pans Kavaki Mesa Achlederi River Bridge near Achlederi Napi Valley Sigri Fields Faneromeni Ford and beach Road to Ipsilou Monastery Agra old road Sunday 21st May

We had no intention of rising early because we were tired after our journey, so we got up at

07.30 and enjoyed an ample breakfast before setting out. The Pasiphae Hotel provides a

comprehensive selection of food for breakfast, ranging from hot food, bacon and eggs etc.

to cereals, cold meats and cheeses, bread for toasting, marmalade, honey and jam, cakes

and biscuits, traditional Greek yogurt and fruit, all this washed down with fruit juices, tea

and coffee. (It should be noted that this hotel serves lunch but does not serve dinner. This is

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not a problem because of the plethora of Tavernas and restaurants close by at Skalla Kalloni

Harbour).

Feeling refreshed and replete we drove to the Tsiknias River where we were greeted by

singing Nightingales and Cettis Warblers, Poppies and other wild flowers were in the crop

fields and along the verges of the track and butterflies abounded: Swallowtail, Marbled

White, Small White, Clouded Yellow and Levantine Skippers, plus many unusual and

colourful insects. After crossing the ford we parked on the east bank, which is essential in

the early morning having the sun behind you. Standing outside the first thing we saw were a

pair of Little Bitterns, a common bird on the island, but nevertheless, very attractive. If you

keep quiet the will allow close approach.

While walking along the east bank we also saw:

Little Owl, Olivaceous Warblers, Reed Warblers, Corn Buntings, Black Headed Bunting,

Black Headed Yellow Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Wood Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Little

Egret, Squacco Herons, Spanish and House Sparrows, Crested Larks and a Kestrel. In

addition to these the air was full of Barn Swallows, House Martins, Bee Eaters, Common

Swifts and a few Alpine Swifts amongst them.

Lower down the track, towards the sea we encountered a female Red Backed Shrike, which

posed very nicely and a pair of Rufous Bush Chat (now called Rufous Scrub Robins) which

was pleasing because the latter can be very elusive.

We drove along the bumpy dusty track connecting the River to the Kalloni Salt Pans. There

were a few Bee Eaters on the overhead wires and fence posts and an Eastern race of Jay

with its black cap, but nothing much else. At the Salt Pans the resident Flamingos and

Avocets were in evidence and along the water channel there were many water birds,

namely Black Winged Stilts, Little Stints, Wood Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers. In the

air there were Whiskered, Little, Black and Common Terns.

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Monday 22nd May

Just after first light at the Tsiknias River we had our usual walk seeing many of the previous

day’s birds but with the bonus of 36 Rose Coloured Starling flying over us in a westerly

direction.

We returned to the hotel for breakfast as per our usual routine: Tsiknias River, breakfast,

onward birding. It may not seem a relaxed holiday to some but we are early risers at home

and its always better birding first thing in the morning.

Later on, while driving one of the quiet tracks we stopped abruptly to see a large bird

hovering in the sky. Through our binoculars we could now see it was a Short Toed Eagle

(now known as a Short Toed Snake Eagle because of its specialized diet of snakes). What a

lovely bird and we watched in awe until it finally drifted away over the fields. Also in this

area were Red Backed and Woodchat Shrikes, Bee Eaters and a fly-through Eleonora’s

Falcon. By this time, 12.00, it was very hot so we retreated to a local Taverna in Skalla

Kalloni harbour named Exodus, for a lunch of delicious Greek salad and Pizza with freshly

squeezed orange juice. This was a frequent stop for us because it was reasonably priced and

the owner was very courteous and professional. After this we chilled out at the hotel for a

few hours while the heat dissipated. This was necessary at this time of the year because of

the high temperature, unless of course you are a sunbather. The evening brought slightly

cooler temperatures allowing us to enjoy a walk down to the local harbour for a nice dinner

and a cold beer.

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Tuesday 23rd May

Once again we were on the Tsiknias River at first light, previously we had noticed some Bee

Eaters perching on some photographically suitable branches on the River bank. We

positioned the car directly opposite the branches – about 20ft away and waited, hoping they

would perch favourably. After about half an hour when insects were airborne the Bee Eaters

started to fly around and before long one bird perched briefly on the branch. This was the

opportunity we had been waiting for and although it was brief, it was all we needed to get a

photo – success!

After this pleasant encounter we saw two female/juv Night Herons fly down River. We went

to see if they had landed, we could hear them calling and saw them meet up with another

bird and fly off towards the west. We decided to try and see these lovely birds another

morning hoping they would be in the same area, because they are creatures of habit. These

birds can be quite elusive but it’s worth the effort because they are a favourite bird of ours.

We made our way back up River seeing male and female Little Bitterns, Squacco Herons,

Grey Heron, two Black and one Common Tern, two Black Storks and a Cormorant.

In addition there were many Stripped Necked Terrapins sunbathing along the River bank,

supported by a cacophony of Marsh Frogs. In the warm morning sunshine the fields were

alive with Crested Larks, Corn Buntings, House and Spanish Sparrows and the odd Black

Headed Bunting. After a good couple of hours birding we returned to the hotel for

breakfast.

Our next destination was the Napi Valley, turning off towards the old Kremastis Bridge

which spans the Kremastis River and always has plenty of water running under it.

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We had been here on our last visit in 2015 and it’s a good spot for birds because of this. As

we arrived we could see a Masked Shrike on some overhead wires, there was also a Sombre

Tit in the bushes and a Hoopoe flew past. After scanning the Riverside bushes for some time

we eventually located the Nightingale that had been singing since we arrived – it’s always a

pleasure to see a Nightingale. As we watched the River we saw a snake moving through the

shallows, it had a distinctive zig-zag pattern but we couldn’t identify it. If you are in the Napi

Valley this bridge is always a good place to spend an hour.

We carried on up the Napi Valley and stopped at two of our usual spots which previously

had been good for Masked, Woodchat and Red Backed Shrike amongst other birds, but

unfortunately, probably due to the time of the year these areas were disappointedly devoid

of almost all birds. After this we made our way back down and had a nice coffee in in small

café in Agia Paraskevi.

Later on we revisited the Kremastis Bridge, it doesn’t take long, about 20 minutes from

Skalla Kalloni, but even at 19.00 it was still 26 C!! There are olive groves surrounding the

Kremastis River and here we found a single Cuckoo, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Hoopoe,

Eastern Race Jay and a pair of Red Backed Shrikes. Two Nightingales were in a singing

competition at the bridge – worth coming out for that alone! That evening we enjoyed a

nice dinner at one of the restaurants on the harbour, quite a successful day’s birding. When

we came back to our hotel we almost stepped on a Worm Snake on the floor of our room.

We had never seen or heard of this animal before. I managed to pick it up and it was great

to feel this beautiful creature coiling around my fingers.

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I took it outside and returned it to the safety of the undergrowth, a nice end to the day.

Wednesday 24th May

After our habitual early morning visit to Tsiknias River, where we again saw some Night

Herons along with Black Headed Buntings, Little Bitterns, Red Rumped Swallows and two

Black Storks, we decided to travel to Sigri, in the west of the island. We left early after

breakfast and arrived at Sigri at about 10.30, the journey taking about 90 minutes. On our

arrival at Sigri we took the turn signposted Faneromeni; this is one of the best areas to

explore and the fields alongside the road contained all four Shrikes, Black Headed Buntings

and Spanish Sparrows, but it was, however, much quieter than in passage migration time.

We made our way to Faneromeni Beach, by now it had become very warm and there was

very little to be seen apart from a Little Ringed Plover and two Ruddy Shelduck, which

showed very well. Previously there had been a flock of about 60 Rose Coloured Starlings

seen in a garden adjoining the beach but despite spending a lot of time in the area we did

not see them and the only birds of note were two Lesser Kestrels.

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After a small snack for lunch in the only Taverna open on the harbour front and watching a

local fisherman salting his catch of Sardines, we took the road back to Ipsilou Monastery. It

was quite surprising just how many businesses had closed and were boarded up at Sigri

Harbour. Two years ago, earlier in the holiday season than this, we could not park our car

because of the volume of tourists there. This was a stark reminder of the consequences of

the well documented human tragedy that has taken place in the last few years. Although we

saw no evidence of this tragedy on our travels around the island this appalling situation has,

no doubt, deterred many people from visiting and as a result all major tour operators

cancelled direct flights to Lesvos during the prime birding weeks of late April/early May

2017. However, it now appears that in 2018, at least with Thomas Cook, normal service will

be resumed.

We did not visit the Monastery at Ipsilou, instead we made our way back to a location we

knew for Cinereous Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush. If you are passing the village of Agra on

the main road from the west, at the start of the new by-pass take the old road towards the

village. Proceed up the steep hill and stop anywhere along this ostensibly unused road and

scan the rocky slopes above and below, which in our experience always contain these birds.

In addition to Cinereous Bunting and Blue Rock Thrush we saw Rock Nuthatch,

Cretzchmar’s Bunting, Sombre Tit, Black Eared Wheatear and, surprisingly, a few Linnets.

By this time it had become very hot so we resumed our journey back to the hotel.

Thursday 25th May

Just after first light this morning we decided to “stake out” the Night Herons which had

been perching in the trees on the banks of the Tsiknias River. If you want to photograph

these shy and easily disturbed birds you have to stay in your car. Susan went for a walk

down River to see what other birds were around and encountered a rarely seen Beech

Marten which scuttled across the track, Meanwhile while I drove slowly along the east bank

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track with the sun behind me until I was quite close to one particular bird, carefully I rested

my lens on the bean bag which I had on the car window sill, the Night Heron turned to look

at me, but seemed comfortable with my presence and I was very pleased to get some nice

shots of my favourite Heron.

At breakfast, talking to Mike Smith, another birding guest at the hotel, the morning got even

better. He gave us directions to a “dead cert.” location for Eastern Bonnelli’s Warbler.

In our experience, nothing is certain, especially with wildlife, however, on this occasion he

has right. He gave us directions from the main road up a steep track where these elusive

birds could be found.

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After several hundred yards we began to hear their characteristic call and song and indeed,

right at the sides of the track we located several birds attending nests and feeding young.

We watched them for a while and moved further up the track where we saw a Jay, Turtle

Dove, Masked Shrike and a Nightingale feeding a fledgling. Also along this track we saw a

Spur Thighed Tortoise and a Persian Squirrel. This track passed through lovely habitat that

could be a real “hotspot” during prime spring migration.

Later that morning we drove to Kavaki, the Ruppell’s Warber site where previously we had

seen a good variety but this time it was very quiet and unbearably hot. Ruppell’s had hardly

been seen that spring but we were lucky to spot two male birds along with a pair of

Subalpine Warblers, but because of the intense heat we left this area and just after Petra

we bought ice creams which we enjoyed under the shade of a tree on the seafront.

Looking at the map we decided to drive a few back roads instead of taking the main road

back to Skalla Kalloni, we passed through a few small, quiet villages and after a village called

Filia we parked at a spectacular viewpoint overlooking Kalloni Bay. While we were there a

Cirl Bunting kept us company, singing on the wires overhead.

We drove back through the Salt Pans and the connecting track to the Tsiknias River, then

across the ford and back to the hotel. We saw very little because the heat had become very

unpleasant and we were glad to reach the sanctuary of our cool hotel room. After a rest and

a rejuvenating shower we strolled down to the harbour in the now cooler evening sunshine

to enjoy a nice dinner and drinks at Exodus Taverna.

Friday 26th May

First thing at the Tsiknias River, four Rose Coloured Starlings flew over us, again heading

west! A few Bee Eaters were flying around and three Hoopoes briefly showed at the

pumping station on the Salt Pans. We stayed in this area most of the day, just chilling out

and taking what came along.

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While we were parked on a quiet track under a shady tree having lunch, we were almost

falling asleep in the dappled sunshine when a Rufous Bush Chat jumped out onto the track

about 20 yards away. These birds can be difficult to see let alone photograph, so we were

pleased with these views, but what happened next was very surprising – the bird came

hopping down the track towards us until it was as little as 5 yards away – what a bonus to

see it this close. I was able to take some real close-up shots of this secretive and little seen

bird.

We paid a cursory visit to Metochi Lake which has now become very overgrown and is no

longer the birding location it was and this is true of a number of locations around the island,

namely Kalloni Pool. We did hear a Great Reed Warbler at the pool but very little else. That

evening huge thunder and lightning storms could be seen over the mountains but lower

down was largely unaffected.

Saturday 27th May

After a dawn visit to the Tsiknias River we saw 2 Rufous Bush Chats with one young bird – a

first for us. Olivaceous Warblers were singing everywhere this morning. We watched as a

Yellow Legged Gull tried to swallow a huge fish, Common and Whiskered Terns were

fishing and 5 Black Storks sailed overhead. The obliging Night Heron posed for more

photographs before we returned to breakfast. Afterwards we left for a final drive through

the Napi Valley making a short detour to the old Kremastis Bridge. While standing on the

new bridge overlooking the river we saw the remarkable sight of a Hoopoe with a fish in its

bill which it proceeded to kill at the side of the river and then flew off into the nearby olive

grove, probably to waiting young birds. Turtle Doves purred and Nightingales sang in the

morning sunshine.

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We returned to the hotel and packed our cases and equipment. We were told by the owner

that we could stay late if we wanted because we did not have to be at the airport until

18.30. However, we decided to leave at midday and spend the time out and about rather

than at the hotel.

As it was near lunch time we drove to our favourite Taverna in Agia Paraskevi. This Taverna

is at the beginning of the village, just where the cobbles start. The seating area is pleasantly

situated under a large Mediterranean Plane tree (known in Europe as Plantene). The owner

told us it was called the Tree of Hypocrites, the father of medicine, who was reputed to

teach his students medicine under a Plantene tree in Kos.

We had had coffee there before and noticed a sign advertising Pizza so we asked if we could

order one. The owner, a real character and a bit of a philosopher, said that it would be 20

minutes as he had to fire the oven up. In reality it was more like 40 minutes but it did not

matter because we had time to spare, the coffee was good and the locals kept us

entertained. When the Pizza arrived it was worth the wait because it was the best Pizza we

had ever tasted. Cooked in a proper stone oven, the base was thick, but light and crispy and

the topping was both generous and delicious. While we were there a Dutch family arrived

and we recommended the Pizza to them and they were in full agreement that the Pizza was

the best they’d tasted. If you ever pass this tavern do not hesitate to pay a visit – you won’t

be disappointed.

After lunch we drove towards Achlederi, through Mesa pulling in at a small pine woodland

just after a picturesque little harbour. In the woodland we could hear some unusual barks

and squawks which sounded as if they came from the top of the pines nearest to the sea

and to our surprise found a roost of seven Night Herons.

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Anyone driving past on this road would never know they were there! After this pleasant

encounter we continued our journey towards Mytilene and the airport. In the distance,

around Mount Olympus, there were tremendous flashes of lightning and claps of thunder –

the sky turned purple and torrential rain fell, luckily we were right on the edge and escaped

most of it. To avoid passing through Mytilene we usually turn off the main carriageway and

make our way around the Geras Peninsula. This is about 16 Km longer but it is worth it to

avoid the traffic and one way system of Mytilene. The scenery is also much nicer this way,

passing through old olive groves and lovely, quiet bays. At one bay we parked under the

trees along the beach to enjoy a last ice cream before driving the last 10 Km to the airport.

We returned the car to the Tsalis representative and checked in. The flight back home was

smooth until we were waiting at the baggage carousel where to our horror one of our bags

was missing. Everyone else had left and as we dejectedly walked towards the lost luggage

office, suddenly the bag appeared on the belt on its own – what a relief!

We made our way to the main car parks and after negotiating some heavy traffic around

Birmingham, we drove home on relatively quiet roads and arrived home at 02.00. These

flight times were difficult and tiring and in future we will always pay a bit extra for more

amenable flights.

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List of Birds Seen

Water Birds

Little Bittern

Squacco Heron

Night Heron

Grey Heron

Black Winged Stilts

Little Egrets

Little Ringed Plover

Little Stint

Avocet

Grt. Flamingo

Ruddy Shelduck

Shelduck

Mallard

Coot

Moorhen

Yellow Legged Gulls

Little Tern

Common Tern

Artic Tern

Whiskered Tern

Black Tern

Black Stork

White Stork

Shrikes

Red Backed Shrike

Masked Shrikes

Woodchat Shrike

Southern Grey Shrike

Owls and Raptors

Scops Owl (h)

Little Owl

Eleonora’s Falcon

Lesser Kestrel

Kestrel

Common Buzzard

Short Toed Eagle

Corvids and Doves

Black Capped Jay

Jackdaw

Hooded Crow

Turtle Dove

Collared Dove

Hirundines

Common Swift

Alpine Swift

Barn Swallow

Red Rumped Swallow

House Martin

Buntings and Sparrows

House Sparrow

Spanish Sparrow

Corn Bunting

Black Headed Bunting

Cirk Bunting

Cinareous Bunting

Crezchmars Bunting

Tits and Finches

Sombre Tit

Blue Tit

Great Tit

Goldfinch Greenfinch

Chaffinch

Thrushes and Chats

Blue Rock Thrush

Blackbird

Rufus Bush Chat

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Warblers

Olivaceous Warber

Reed Warbler

Great Reed Warbler (h)

Nightingale

Ruppell’s Warbler

Subalpine Warbler

Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler

Cetti’s Warbler

Misc Birds

Bee Eater

Hoopoe

Rose Coloured Starlings

Crested Lark

Black Eared Wheatears

Middle Spotted Woodpecker

Rock Nuthatch

Animals

Beech Marten

Persian Squirrel

Snakes and Reptiles

Spur Thighed Tortoise

European Terrapin

Stripped Neck Terrapin

Tree Frogs

Worm Snake

Unidentified River snake

Balkan Green Lizard

Starred Agama

Butterflies

Swallowtail

Meadow Brown

White Admiral

Marbled White

Balkan Clouded Yellow

Small White

Levantine Skipper

+ many unidentified butterflies and insects

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