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12th – 29th March 2018

By Steve and Sue Wilce

www.breconbeaconsbirder.com

Gatwick Hotel and Parking: Waterhall www.waterhallcountryhotel.co.uk

Flight: Thomas Cook Airlines

Accommodation: Farakunku Lodges www.farakunku-lodges.com

Bird Guide: Masaneh Sanyeng email: masssanyang55@hotmail.com

Whatsup No. 00220-2506962

___________________________________________________________

Prior to our flight we booked accommodation and parking at the Waterhall

Country Hotel near Gatwick.

This is a hotel we have used previously and we can thoroughly

recommend it. The rooms are comfortable, the food is good and it is

convenient for the airport with a reliable taxi service booked through the

hotel. The cost of accommodation at Waterhall was £49.00 per room per

night and parking for up to 15 days cost £37.50. Additional days are

charged at £7.50 per day. The taxi service was £10.00 each way.

We booked a flight only with Thomas Cook Airlines, flying from Gatwick to

Banjul and arranged a 17 night stay at Farakunku Lodges near Tujereng.

This was booked after contacting Heather, the British owner. We had

heard good reports about the lodges and we are pleased to say that these

reports were well founded.

On our arrival at Banjul, Moses, Heather’s husband and co-owner, was

waiting to greet us. This airport pick-up and drop-off service is operated

at a cost of £25.00 each way. This is highly recommended because self-

driving in the Gambia is not for the inexperienced or faint hearted.

Farankunku Lodges

After a 40 minute drive we arrived at Farakunku and were warmly

greeted by Heather and introduced to the very friendly staff. Throughout

our stay, nothing was too much trouble. The four lodges at Farakunku are

spacious, airy and well appointed. Each room has a king-size four poster

bed draped with mosquito nets and there are comfortable cane chairs and

a table in a spacious seating area.

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The rooms are well ventilated with windows on all walls and a ceiling fan.

The windows have security bars and are meshed for extra mosquito

protection. The rooms are cleaned daily and bedding and towels replaced

regularly. Fresh flowers in the room is a very nice touch. There is also a

very good laundry service available. Please visit their website for full

details of the facilities. www.farakunku-lodges.com

Our guided bird-watching trips with Masaneh Sanyeng were arranged for

us by Heather and we decided that we would spread the excursions over

the 17 days and have a break every other day to explore on our own.

Itinerary

1. Abuko and Lamin Rice Field

2. Brufut Woods and Tanji Bird Reserve

3. Bonto, Pirang and Faraba Banta

4. Tujereng, Koto

5. Darsilami and Marakissa

6. Kartong and Stala

7. Tanje coastal area

8. Koto, Serekunda and Cape Point

Although these were our designated destinations there was a lot of

flexibility in what we did and our guide Mas would often stop at different

locations to show us birds he had noticed previously

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Wednesday 14th March 2018

This was the first day for us to meet Massaneh Sanyang who was to be

our bird-guide for the duration of our holiday. He arrived just after 7.30

a.m. full of energy and enthusiasm. He introduced himself to us while we

were breakfasting and as soon as we had collected our binoculars and

camera we set off. Mas had his own vehicle and drove us expertly to all

our planned destinations. Before we had even left the lodge gates Mas

treated us to a spectacle we had never seen before; he began to whistle

and imitate bird calls which initiated a response from a variety of birds,

Yellow Crowned Gonoleks seemed particularly attracted and we saw three

in the same bush at one time. Beautiful and Varied Sunbirds came to see

what was going on and we saw Grey Backed Cameroptera, Yellow

Throated Leafloves, Lavender Waxbills, Red Billed Firefinches and many

other small birds, it was difficult to keep up with the amount of birds that

flew into the tree. Steve and I looked at each other in amazement – this

boded well for rest of the trip.

Our main destination was Lamin Rice Fields and Abuko Nature Reserve

but, as we drove along the tracks from Farakunku, Mas pointed out many

different birds along the way. At our first stop near a small building Mas

imitated the call of a Pearl Spotted Owlet, we did not have to wait long

before the owlet appeared in the tree next to the building but another bird

came to investigate too – a Violet Turaco, the bird’s beautiful red wings

glowing in the sunlight. Immediately behind us we could see a Black

Shouldered Kite in a Palm Tree. We passed Red Billed Hornbills, Purple

and Long Tailed Glossy Starlings, Western Grey Plantain Eater, Senegal

Parrot and African Harrier Hawk before we reached the main road. Mas

pulled in at the side of the main road telling us that this was a good spot

to see the African Green Pigeon. There were two pigeons in the tree and

we watched them for a while taking nesting material to a wooded area

across the road and then flying back again. Also, right at the top of the

tree was an African Golden Oriole.

Driving towards the village of Tanji. Mas pulled in at the edge of a small

inlet which had a variety of gulls and waders on the banks: Grey Headed

Gulls (very similar to our Black Headed), Slender Billed Gulls, Common

Sandpipers, Grey Heron, Caspian Terns, Spur Winged Plovers, Great

Cormorant and Long Tailed Cormorant. A very nice spectacle was six Pied

Kingfishers fishing from overhead wires.

Further along the road we stopped once more, this time Mas pointed out

some Pied Hornbills that he had noticed when he was on his way to collect

us.

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Lamin Rice Fields

This is a wetland area opposite Abuko Nature Reserve and farmed by local

women. It is criss-crossed with drainage ditches and is very attractive to

all sorts of birds. They were quite a few women working on their plots of

land but Mas seemed to know them all and there was no problem with our

walking the banks. Probably the strangest bird we saw here was the

Hamerkop – an aptly named, unusual looking bird. There were Cattle

Egrets, Squacco Herons, Western Reef Herons, Striated Heron, Black

Heron, Black Crakes, African Jacanas, Spur Winged Plovers, Intermediate

Egret, Little Egret, Little Bittern, Spoonbills, Sacred Ibis and large

numbers of Whimbrels and Senegal Thick Knees. Apart from wading birds

we saw another Violet Turaco in flight, two Blue Bellied Rollers at the top

of a Date Palm, Piapiacs, Fork Tailed Drongo, Black Kite and a Shikra. We

also saw Bronze Mannikins, Red Billed Firefinches, Senegal Coucal,

Spotted Pigeon, Yellow Billed Shrikes and Long Tailed Cormorants.

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Abuko Nature Reserve

At this reserve there is a

Crocodile pool where we

saw quite a few Green

Vervet Monkeys who had

become used to seeing

tourists and so were not

too shy and willing to

tolerate us at close

quarters. At the pool we

could see some people

launching boats, so we did

not see many birds here

except a Palm Nut Vulture

in a tree across the pond. A

Dark Chanting Goshawk flew past and there were African Palm Swifts,

Little Swift, Barn Swallow and Little Bee Eaters flying over the pond. At

the edge of the forest there was a family party of Red Colobus Monkeys

making its way through the trees.

Further along the track we came to a small pool where we saw a beautiful

Malachite Kingfisher. The pool attracted a number of other species such as

African Darter, Blue Spotted Dove, Namaqua Dove, Bronze Mannikins, Red

Billed Firefinches and also an enormous Monitor Lizard, basking on a log in

the undergrowth. Walking further into the reserve Mas pointed out some

Bush Buck Antelopes, a species which is in decline in the Gambia.

There was so much to see as we walked along the pathways, but we would

not have spotted anywhere near as many birds if Mas had not been with

us. His hearing and eyesight were exceptional. He had a great advantage

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of being able to identify the birds by their call or song before ever catching

sight of them, something that we could not have done in the Gambia.

Mas got very

excited by one

bird in particular –

a Green Turaco. It

was feeding on

fruit right at the

top of a tree and

was partially

hidden by

vegetation.

He tried in vain

for several

minutes to point it out to us, but neither of us could see it. Eventually we

managed to locate it, but it was so high up we had to crick our necks to

see it. Not a great view but luckily for us, just along the path, we came to

another fruiting tree and had much better views of two Green and one

Violet Turaco. One of the Green Turacos took flight eliciting gasps of

amazement from all of us, Mas included, as the sunlight caught the vivid

red and green of its wings as it flew directly over us.

In a tree nearby a Lizard Buzzard was perched, new species of birds were

coming thick and fast for us now. Other birds we saw were Little

Greenbul, Yellow Throated Leaflove, Common Bulbuls, a skulking White

Crowned Robin Chat and Common Wattle Eye. All of a sudden an African

Paradise Flycatcher appeared on the track in front of us, it was a female

but she was soon joined by the male bird who looked very exotic with his

beautiful long tail. He was very obliging and put on a good display for us,

not seeming to mind our presence at all. The next exciting bird was a

colourful Western Bluebill and then a Buff Spotted Woodpecker, both in

the same area.

There were also many small birds that we would see a lot of during the

holiday: Village Weavers, Black Headed Weavers, White Tailed Buffalo

Weavers, Beautiful and Variable Sunbirds, Lavender Waxbills, Wood Dove

and Blue Spotted Dove.

We got carried away looking at the birds and it was gone 2.00p.m when

we left to go to Lamin Lodge for a belated lunch. A very unusual place,

built on stilts over the river where you can watch the local women shelling

the Oysters they have cut from the Mangroves. It was so hot all we really

wanted was to drink something cold but when we had cooled down we

ordered a Baguette which was very nice. It was a pleasant interlude to sit

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in the shade eating lunch and watching the numerous Pied Kingfishers

along the riverbanks.

Afterwards we had a short walk along the path, talking to the Oyster

fishers and seeing a few birds along the way: Zitting Cisticola, Redshanks,

Greenshanks and Senegal Thick Knees. But the afternoon was getting

much hotter and we were both feeling exhausted by the heat, so we

decided to return to Farankunku Lodges.

Non-excursion days

On the non-excursion days (or rest days) we would sometimes explore

the tracks around Farankunku, often passing through a small village

where we were a great curiosity for the children who loved to come and

say hello to us and tell us their names. They were always polite and

friendly and never bothered us at all.

We saw many birds along these tracks, some we saw most days and

other birds perhaps on one or two occasions, but there was always a

wealth of birds to be seen. A particularly good spot was where some land

was being prepared for houses to be built: the birds seemed to like this

area a lot, particularly perching on the stacks of bricks.

These typically included:

Purple Glossy Starling

Long Tailed Glossy Starling, Western Grey Plantain Eater,

Fork Tailed Drongos, Grey Headed Northern Sparrow

Red Cheek Cordon Bleu, Lavender Waxbill, Orange Cheeked Waxbill

Red Billed Firefinch, Yellow Crowned Gonelek, Rose Ringed Parakeets

African Wattled Lapwing, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Village Weavers

African Red Billed Hornbill, Senegal Coucal, Yellow Billed Shrike

Bronze Manikins, Laughing Dove, Red Eyed Dove

Greater Honeyguide (juv) and Spotted Honeyguide

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Lodge Gardens and Tree and Bird Sanctuary

When time allowed we

spent the late afternoon,

typically between 4.00 –

6.00pm (the prime time

for birds to drink after a

hot day) at the Tree and

Bird Sanctuary which is

only about 200 yards away

from the lodges. This is a

private, walled and gated

garden that Heather had

developed to protect tree

species and to encourage

local birdlife with

strategically placed water pots and a permanent pond.

Anything could and did turn up, including Lizard Buzzard, Shikra, Bearded

Barbet, Blue Bellied Roller, Senegal Parrot, Green Wood Hoopoe, White

Headed Vulture, Fine Spotted and Grey Woodpeckers, Purple and Long

Tailed Glossy Starlings, Red Billed Hornbills and Violet Turacos.

Friday 16th March 2018

Brufut Woods and Tanji Bird Reserve

Driving from Farakunku at 8.15 a.m. we had not gone far when Mas

pulled over; he had seen one of our favourite raptors in a palm tree – a

Black Shouldered Kite. We piled out of the jeep anxious to get a view and

perhaps a photo of this lovely bird before it flew off. There was a Dark

Chanting Goshawk in another palm and we saw a Lizard Buzzard and

Osprey flying overhead, so we were spoilt for choice. There were also 6

Spur Thighed Francolins in the fields. Back in the jeep we passed the tree

where a Grey Kestrel liked to sit, surveying the ground for prey. We saw

him in the same place most times we passed that way, obviously a

favoured perch.

Brufut woodland is about 12 miles from Farakunku. It is a protected area

close to Brufut village. As you drive up to the parking area you are met

with an unsightly village rubbish dump, picked over by Cattle and Cattle

Egrets. This was unexpected and a bit of a shock to us. However, the

rubbish was contained in this area and further along the woodland and

paths were clear. We met the volunteer warden, incongruously named

“Abba” and a good friend of Mas. He enjoyed walking with us around the

reserve he knew so well and helped spot some of the huge variety of

birds.

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While Abba was with us Mas drove the jeep to the end of the walk so we

would not have to return the same way and then walked back. He is a

quick walker and soon re-joined us.

There was a huge amount of birds in this area, we had not walked far

when we came across a fruiting tree in which there were two Klaas’s

Cuckoos. We were amazed by its beautiful glossy green plumage. One

bird was particularly obliging and sat out in full view at the top of the

tree. In the same tree was a stunning Green Turaco, again giving

reasonably good views. There were several Yellow Fronted Canaries, a

Senegal Parrot, Yellow Fronted Tinkerbirds and a Yellow Throated Leaf

Love, not forgetting numerous Sunbirds – Beautiful, Variable and Copper,

all in this one tree. While we picked out the different birds they were

joined by three Swallow Tailed Bee Eaters. Could the morning get any

better? The answer was yes of course it could. As we walked the paths we

saw many species of Doves and Pigeons: African Green Pigeons, Speckled

Pigeon, Red Eyed Dove, Laughing Dove, Vinaceous Dove, Black Spotted

Wood Dove and the petite Namaqua Dove.

Overhead we saw another Osprey, Black Kite, Shikra, Hooded Vultures

and Fanti Sawing.

Further along, we encountered two species of Hornbill – The Red Billed

and the Grey and several Western Grey Plantain Eaters. We saw a Singing

Cisticola and there was a difficult to see White Crowned Robin Chat that

wanted to keep in the deeper undergrowth. Above us an African Golden

Oriole sang in the treetops. We took a well-used path through some

undergrowth and Mas pointed to an area under a bush, neither of us

could not see what he meant, but then our eyes adjusted and we saw a

roosting Long Tailed Nightjar, not two feet away from us. Steve took

some photos and then we left it in peace.

By now we had come to a very welcome area where you could sit and

watch some birds coming to drink from water containers. We were able to

buy cold drinks here and replenish our own thirst too. As usual there were

Village Weavers, Black Necked Weavers and more uncommonly a Little

Weaver. Fork Tailed Drongos, Northern Red Bishops, Red Cheeked Cordon

Bleu, Lavender Waxbill, Orange Cheeked Waxbill and Northern Red Billed

Firefinches, all coming down to refresh themselves.

Suddenly Mas jumped up and walked off down a path, soon he was back,

beckoning us to follow. He had heard the call of a Sulphur Breasted Bush

Shrike and had soon located it. We had great view of this lovely bird

before it flew off and we could not relocate it again. There were other bird

guides there but only Mas had picked out the call – testament to his skill!

However, it was time for us to return to Farakunku for lunch.

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Tanji Beach and Bird Reserve

This reserve in just north of Tanji and contains open areas with some

Gingerbread plums and Acacia scrub, Rhun palms, a large wooded area

and Tanji lagoon and shoreline.

We drove through the very busy fishing village of Tanji and pulled in

alongside a small inlet, there was a Grey Heron, Black Tailed Godwits,

Ringed Plover, Spur Winged Plover and African Wattled Lapwing, but not

much else so we made our way towards the beach. Whenever you drive

past Tanji village there is the all-pervading smell of smoked fish. We were

passing one of the many Smoke Houses so Mas asked if we wanted to see

the process and we said we would. Inside the Smoke House was very

dark, smelly and the smoke was very, very hot. There were racks and

racks of fish neatly arranged on a grid over open charcoal hearths. The

person in charge explained the procedure to us and offered us a fish to

taste. It was all very interesting but we were both glad to get out into the

‘cooler’ air.

The beach was crowded with birds - we saw some Great White Pelicans,

Kelp Gulls, Slender Billed Gulls, Grey Headed Gulls, Caspian and Royal

Terns, Long Tailed Cormorants, Whimbrels, Sanderling and White and

Yellow Wagtails.

Unfortunately the beach was littered with discarded fishing nets and lots

of plastic rubbish and we were happy to move on to a nearby wooded

area which was more to our liking, offering some shade from the hot

sunshine. Here we saw some Blue Cheeked Bee Eaters and two Northern

Black Flycatchers which flew from post to post but we could not get close

enough for photographs. There was also a Tawny Backed Prinia and a

Senegal Eremomela.

We walked back to the jeep thinking we were returning to Farankunku but

Mas pulled in alongside a path where there was a leaking water tower.

The water had formed a large puddle underneath and was attracting a lot

of birds, the most stunning being the Scarlet Chested Sunbird. The

plumage of the male bird glowed like rubies and emeralds in the

sunshine. Other sunbirds here were the Beautiful and Splendid. The water

also attracted a Willow Warbler, Yellow Wagtail and a House Sparrow,

birds we were much more familiar with.

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Mas took us further along

the path and when he

came to a clearing he

made some calls and

almost immediately two

White Crested Helmet

Shrikes flew into the top

of one of the trees. This is

what he was hoping for

but he said nothing to us

in case they did not show

up. These were stunningly

beautiful birds and the

only ones we saw on the

trip.

In the same clearing was

a Northern Crombec, a

very unusual looking bird

with hardly any tail, a Yellow Fronted Tinkerbird and a Senegal Coucal.

It was hard to tear ourselves away but we were both extremely hot and

tired by now and we decided to finish for the day and return for cooling

drinks at Farakunku.

Sunday 18th March 2018

Tujereng and Koto

Tujereng woodland is about 3 miles away from the lodges, between the

coast road and the sea. It is an area of coastal scrub, open woodlands

and farmlands and hosts an impressive list of birds, and is an area noted

for Raptors.

The very first birds we saw there were Black Headed Lapwings. As we

approached them they moved towards a low wall with some cut scrub

alongside. They were more confident here and we were able to observe

them at our leisure. An added bonus was a pair of African Silverbills in the

cut scrub. Double Spurred Francolin and African Wattled Lapwings were

also seen here. Overhead, Palm Swifts were flying and during our walk we

noted Osprey, Black Shouldered Kite and African Harrier Hawk.

In the grounds of a small farmhouse we watched a confiding Senegal Parrot

eating the fruit from one of the trees and Rose Ringed Parakeets were

nearby. At the back of the farm was a small wooded area and Mas said he

could hear the call of the Striped Kingfisher so we headed out in that

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direction and after a bit of searching were able to locate it. It is strange to

think of a Kingfisher living in a woodland and feeding off insects rather that

living near water and eating small fish. At the side of the farm compound

there was an area that had been harvested of crops and the stumps burnt

off, it was here that we saw a male and female White Fronted Black Chat

and a Black Crowned Tchagra. An Abyssinian Roller sat on the wall and in

nearby low bushes were Little and Swallow Tailed Bee Eaters.

As we walked the paths surrounding the compound we came across a

fruiting Gingerbread Plum tree which was attracting a variety of birds:

Fine Spotted and Grey Woodpeckers, Yellow Fronted Tinkerbirds, Northern

Crombec, Whinchat, Red Billed Hornbills and best of all (for us) called in

by Mas were two Bearded Barbets - quite spectacular looking birds. We

also saw a Eurasian Hoopoe, Yellow Crowned Gonolek and Yellow Wagtails

along the paths here.

Unknown to us we were taking a circular walk back towards our vehicle

and we passed an area of small trees, low scrub on one side and a low

wall on the other., Another good area: on the wall were two Red Winged

Warblers, not in their full breeding plumage but still lovely to see, and in

the scrub was a Whistling Cisticola.

A Yellow Penduline

Tit was in a small tree

but flew away quite

quickly, we wanted

better views so noted

the direction it had

flown and followed it.

After some searching

we located it again

and had more

prolonged views. It

turned out to be a

good move because

we saw some great birds in this area: Senegal Batis, Pintail Whydah and

Woodchat Shrike. Throughout our walk we had seen numerous Laughing

Doves and a Namaqua Dove. Beautiful and Variable Sunbirds were

common and there were a few Scarlet Chested Sunbirds too.

We encountered Yellow Fronted Canaries, Chestnut Crowned Sparrow

Weavers and Village Weavers along the route we had walked, as well as

the now ‘common’ birds to us such as Northern Grey Headed Sparrow,

Northern Red Bishops, Red Cheeked Cordon Bleu, Red Billed Firefinch,

Yellow Billed Shrike etc.

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Koto Ponds and Creek

After another delicious lunch at Farakunku we set off for Koto and parked

near the lower bridge over Koto creek. There is a very nice beach near

here and it is a much more touristy area with many bird guides offering

their services to any passers-by. The guides all seemed to know and

respect Mas and so we had no hassle from any of them. Saying that, they

all seemed very polite and not too persistent in their offers to show

people the birds. There is also a jetty where you can hire a punt to take

you out on to the river to explore the banks and small islands.

We could see a lot of birds from the bridge, especially Pied Kingfishers,

several hovered over the water before diving in to catch a fish, and others

were perched on posts and in the branches of trees. Below the bridge on

the banks of the creek were Whimbrel, Western Reef Herons, Hamerkop,

Grey Heron, Little and Great Egrets and Long Tailed Cormorants. At the

far side of the bridge Mas found a Golden Tailed Woodpecker in a small

tree. Quite a rare bird in that area of the Gambia.

We had an enjoyable hour watching different birds come and go before

we left the bridge to walk towards Koto Pond (which is actually Koto

Sewage Works).

We had to pass a small tidal pool on the way and this was very productive

as we saw Little Bee Eaters and the only White Throated Bee Eaters of our

trip. In the Mangroves was a family party of Bronze Mannikins, and Sedge

and Reed Warblers (surely they would be migrating northwards soon) and

Some Rose Ringed Parakeets were perched in a nearby palm tree.

By the side of Koto Pond we could see a large group of Pink Backed

Pelican in the trees. White Faced Whistling Ducks and Little Grebes were

on the water and the margins thronged with all kinds of waders: African

Spoonbills, Squacco Herons, Cattle, Little and Great Egrets, Spur Winged

Plover. Black Winged Stilts, Wood, Green and Common Sandpipers,

Redshank, Greenshank, African Jacanas and Whimbrels.

We had had a long day, the temperatures were high and we were both

feeling tired so we decided to give Fajara a miss and return home to cool

off in the bird-filled gardens at Farakunku.

Monday 19th March 2018

We had no guided excursions booked for today but we had enjoyed Koto

Creek the previous day and were confident we could find our way around

by ourselves so we asked Heather to book a taxi to take us there for the

morning. The taxi driver was very pleasant and helpful and was a nephew

of Moses. He waited at Koto for us until we were ready to leave and even

came to spot some birds with us from the bridge.

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Some of the bird guides we had met with Mas the previous day came to

talk to us for a while when we were on the bridge.

We saw most to the birds mentioned the previous day, with the following

additions: 40+ Senegal Thick Knees flying up the river and over the

bridge, Abyssinian Roller, Broad Billed Roller, Blue Breasted Kingfisher,

Gull Billed Terns, Caspian Terns, Ruff, Brown Babblers, Fork Tailed

Drongo, Palm Nut Vulture, Sacred Ibis, Red Fronted Swallows, Village

Weavers and Beautiful Sunbirds.

After a very pleasant morning we were driven back to Farakunku for lunch

and a relaxing afternoon in the gardens.

Tuesday 20th March 2018

Pirang Ponds, Faraba Banta Bush Track & Pirang Bonto Forest

Pirang Bonto Forest and nearby paddy fields come under the protection of

the WABSA (West African Bird Study Association) and is south of Brikama,

about 35 km from Farakunku.

It is a small isolated forest of about 64ha in extent, surrounded by a

variety of habitats including extensive salt flats, mangroves and

Phragmites parkia stands to the north, vegetable gardens to the west,

agricultural land to the east and south and a small community of people

in the south east. The Woods are protected by the local community for

the practice of traditional community ceremonies and rites. Most of the

shrubs and many trees are used in traditional medicine as local

knowledge in the village about herbal remedies goes back many years.

Pirang Bonto Forest is the best and most impressive example of gallery

forest in The Gambia. The combination of well-preserved forest and a

wide range of habitats nearby means that bird species can be seen.

Faraba Banta bush track consists of open woodlands with many tall trees

and unspoilt countryside which is excellent for raptors. We saw two Black

Shouldered Kites here as well as Grey Kestrel and Dark Chanting

Goshawk.

We saw a large fruiting tree about 100 yards away which Mas seemed to

be studying intently. All of a sudden he said follow me and off we went

towards the tree. He had be hoping to locate a particular bird – Bruce’s

Green Pigeon - and fortunately for us there were two of these beautiful,

delicately coloured birds in the top of this tree. As an added bonus a

Vieillot’s Barbet was singing from a branch nearby. The fruit was

obviously ripe and was attracting all sorts of birds such as African Grey

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Hornbills, Yellow Breasted Apalis, Pin Tailed Whydah, Yellow Fronted

Tinkerbirds and various sunbirds amongst other commoner birds.

We noticed a European Bee Eaters and Palm Swifts overhead and a

Hoopoe was feeding under one of the trees.

When we arrived at the woods we were joined by a young man named

David, one of the local guides who knew the roosting sites of some of the

Owls we were hoping to see. The first on the list were two African Scops

Owls and further into the woodland we saw a couple of White Faced Owls,

but disappointedly the Wood Owl was not in its usual roosting site and

had not been located that day. However, the bird we really wanted to see

was in full view – a magnificent Verreaux’s Eagle Owl with its wonderful

pink coloured eyelids perched high up in one of the tall trees. We had to

crick our necks to see it. Mas made a “call” and the owl opened its eyes

and peered down at us, seeing no threat, the owl closed his eyes again

and went back to sleep. It was a good experience seeing these birds in

their natural habitat.

We had walked quite a distance through the forest and we both were hot

and tired so when we returned to our vehicle we were more than pleased

to be taken to a shaded seated area where you could buy cold drinks and

sit and watch birds coming to water pots placed around the grove.

This was quite a site! The birds really did turn up in droves: most

numerous and vocal were the Weavers - Black Headed, Black Necked and

Village. Brown Babblers and Common Bulbul were frequent bathers and a

Little Greenbul put in an appearance. A Snowy Crowned Robin Chat came

to drink at one of the pots and in the dense vegetation we had a fleeting

glimpse of an Oriole Warbler. Beautiful Sunbirds, Purple Glossy Starling,

Blue Bellied Roller and a Yellow Crowned Gonolek made for a colourful

display, but some of the best birds here were Sulphur Breasted Bush

Shrike, Western Bluebill, Common Wattle Eye, African Paradise Flycatcher

and perhaps best of all a Pygmy Kingfisher. This incredibly small

Kingfisher made several dives into the drinking trough from the branches

above, but was so fast that we could not see where it went – it took Mas’s

eagle eyes to locate it in the vegetation and direct us to it.

In addition to all these lovely birds were the smaller sparrows, waxbills

and finches: Northern Grey Sparrow, Lavender, Orange Cheeked and

Black Rumped Waxbills, Northern Red Bishops, Red Billed Firefinches and

Blue Cheeked Cordon Bleus.

We had enjoyed ourselves so much we really did not want to leave, but

David had one more surprise for us. As we walked back to Mas’s jeep

David pointed to some long grass at the side of the track. We could not

see what he meant so he parted the grass a little and there roosting

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within two feet of us was a Long Tailed Nightjar. Fabulous! We were

amazed at how well the plumage blended with the background. We did

not want to disturb the bird so after a quick photograph we moved on.

Next Stop Pirang Ponds which were formally a shrimp farm.

Our main quest here was to find a Giant Kingfisher but on first sight the

ponds seemed quite deserted apart from a Grey Heron and a Black-

headed Heron. However, as we walked around more birds became

evident: African Wattled Lapwings, a single Black Crake and 40+ Senegal

Thick Knees. There were a few doves in the area, Laughing, Namaqua and

Blue Spotted Wood Doves. After a while and a good deal of searching Mas

at last located our quarry – a beautiful male Giant Kingfisher was in a

bush at the end of a spit of land projecting into the pond. We were

surprised at its size, about 45 cm in height. We watched it diving twice

into the water before it flew across the pond, it was just as impressive in

flight. This was a perfect ending to another great day of birding with our

expert guide Mas.

Wednesday 21st March 2018

Tanji Eco Lodge

This was one of our self-guided excursions that had been recommended

to us by a fellow guest, James. Heather arranged for their driver Babucar,

to drop us off and meet us again at a specified time of our choosing.

James had told us the food was excellent so we decided to have lunch

there.

There is a 35 Dalasai entry fee per person but when we stopped at the

entrance there was nobody there and we had to search for somebody to

pay. There were no maps or site guides available so when we arrived at

the eco-lodges we were unsure where to go next. However we saw a

couple walking towards the

beach so decided to go in

that direction. It would be

a lovely beach if it were

not for the litter and

discarded fishing nets and

debris.

We walked left, passing a

freshly caught cuttlefish

lying next to a pair of

shoes, but there was no

sign of the fisherman.

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The cliffs above the beach were eroding, exposing the roots of the Boabab

trees along their edges.

Eventually, we came to a large lagoon with a small island. This was rich

with birds, mostly Royal and Caspian Terns with a few Sandwich and Little

Terns. Grey Headed Gulls were plentiful, with a few Great Black Backed

Gulls. We saw some nice waders, such as Kentish Plover, Greenshank,

Black Tailed Godwits, Sanderlings and Turnstones. There was also a

Western Reef Heron and a Grey Heron. An Osprey was in a distant tree

and we hoped it would fly over to fish but that didn’t happen. Rather than

retrace our steps we thought that we could walk back to the eco-lodges

restaurant across the open fields and woodland because that was the way

we saw the other couple walking. This proved to be more difficult than we

thought because we lost sight of them and there were numerous different

pathways we could take and not a directional sign to be seen. It would be

very helpful to visitors, and a low costing improvement, if some arrow

signs were erected pointing towards the Lodges Reception.

This open, tree-scattered area was rich in Ospreys, who used the tree

tops as viewing points. We counted 5 along the way, and had very good

view of some of the birds. Eventually we found our way to the outdoor,

shaded restaurant and settled down with some cold drinks to watch the

birds coming to drink from the water pots and small pool opposite the

tables. At first the birds were plentiful, we saw Village Weavers, Bulbuls,

Red Billed Firefinches, Yellow White Eye and an African Paradise

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Flycatcher. Unfortunately the Monkeys were thirsty that day and took

over the water pots completely. There were Green Vervet Monkeys, some

with babies, and Red Colobus Monkeys, both species were very

entertaining to watch. Our meal arrived, we had chosen Butterfish with

rice and vegetables. Not only was it beautifully cooked, it was beautifully

presented too. We spent a pleasant hour or two here before our driver

came to collect us to take us back to Farakunku Lodges.

Thursday 22nd March

Darsilami and Marakissa

On this planned birding excursion with Mas we went to a place called

Marakissa River Camp which is run by a Dutchman and his Gambian wife.

A very nice couple who were most welcoming. They have a very nice set-

up which backs onto a river where a variety of birds can be seen including

Pied, Malachite, Giant and Blue Breasted Kingfishers. Pied Kingfishers can

be seen throughout The Gambia, however, the other three are more

difficult.

We walked to a nearby wetland area just along from Marakissa, seeing a

good variety of birds there: Black Crowned Night Heron, Squacco, Grey,

Western Reef and Black Herons, Cattle and Intermediate Egrets, Long

Tailed Cormorants, African Jacanas, Spur Winged Plovers and Hamerkop.

We also saw Mourning and Laughing Doves, Western Grey Plantain Eaters

and a secretive Oriole Warbler.

From here we walked to a nearby Savannah where we saw a lot of birds,

ably pointed out by Mas. This was an excellent area for raptors and we

had great views of Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle as it flew overhead, circling

with a pair of Brown Snake Eagles. Then along came a Bataleur Eagle, all

in the space of a few minutes. The scattered trees were full of surprises,

we picked out an adult and a juvenile African Harrier Hawk, Palm Nut

Vulture, Shikra, and a Lizard Buzzard staking out their territory for prey.

There was also African Golden Oriole, Red Bellied Paradise Flycatcher and

Tawny Flanked Prinia in some of the lower bushes.

We had ordered lunch for our return, and after we had eaten we went to

the shaded area overlooking the garden. The owners had strategically

placed water bowls and feeding stations at different parts of the garden

which attracted a variety of birds coming to drink from them, including

Lesser, Greater and Spotted Honeyguides, Blue Breasted Roller, Yellow

Throated Leaflove, Snowy Crowned Robin Chat, Grey Backed

Cameroptera, Red Bellied Flycatcher. It was quite warm and after lunch

we felt like dozing off because it was so pleasant. Suddenly Mas

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whispered ‘look’, we couldn’t believe our eyes as a Blue Breasted

Kingfisher was perched on a branch twenty feet away from us. We never

thought we would see one that close, what a bird, our Kingfisher is

beautiful but this bird is on another level. What an end to an afternoon’s

birding!!

Friday 23rd March 2018

Today a wind called the Harmatten started to blow, this is a wind from the

Sahara Desert which occurs regularly once or twice a year, but Heather

said that this was the third time this year. The fine dust in the

atmosphere created by this wind covered the sun, giving the light a

strange yellow glow. It was difficult to breath at times, and all the

vegetation was covered in this dust. Guests who arrived yesterday said it

was a bizarre sight from their aircraft and the runway at Banjul Airport

was totally obscured.

Saturday 24th March 2018

Tujereng Woodland

This was the 2nd day of the Harmatten and visibility was still poor. Our

first stop today was Tujereng woodland which we had visited previously

but had missed the Temminck’s Coursers that usually frequent the open

area behind the woods. We stayed at the edge of the woods watching

birds while Mas went off on a scouting expedition but he had no luck and

we spoke to one of the local farmers who said they had not been seen in

the area for a week or more, so we had to abandon that. However, the

rest of the birding was excellent and we saw most of the birds we saw on

our first visit including 3 Black Crowned Tchagras, 2 Yellow Crowned

Gonoleks, Yellow Penduline Tit, White Fronted Black Chat, Whistling

Cisticola and Spur Thighed Francolins. Overhead were Palm and Common

Swifts, Fanti Sawings and a Dark Chanting Goshawk.

Faraba Banto Bush Track

We tried a different part of this 10 Km track from our previous visit and

while passing a lagoon near a shrimp processing plant we saw our first

crocodile. There were White Headed Whistling Duck around the edges,

African Darters, Squacco, Grey, Black and Black Headed Herons, Little

and Intermediate Egrets, Caspian Terns, Spur Winged Plovers and an

Osprey sat on a tree that had fallen into the lagoon. There were also

Village and Black Headed Weavers at their nests nearby

Walking from the lagoon towards the woodland Mas spotted a Cardinal

Woodpecker and further along we saw a pair of Rose Ringed Parakeets at

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a possible nest site in one of the palm trees. Overhead were Palm Swifts,

a Palm Nut Vulture, Hooded Vulture, Gabba Goshawk and a Lizard

Buzzard, also there were some Little and Swallow Tailed Bee Eaters.

There was a Broad Billed Roller, Abyssinian Rollers, Senegal Parrots, and

a Violet Turaco.

Further along where there were many more trees and bushes where we

had great views of a Buff Spotted Woodpecker and a Greater Honeyguide.

We also saw a variety of Sunbirds and a Tawny Flanked Prinia.

On the drive back to Farakunku Mas pulled over for Steve to take some

photos of an Abyssinian Roller perched on a dead tree near the road, we

thought it would fly away, but it was quite content to sit there and pose.

Another pull-in near some cattle revealed 3 Yellow Billed Ox Peckers, on

overhead wires, we waited to see if they would come down to the cattle

but they were not interested so we left them there and continued home.

Sunday 25th March 2018

Tujereng Woods, Kartong, Stala River Cruise

The air was getting a little clearer but the sun was still hidden by the fine

dust from the Harmatten.

Mas arrived at 7.30 am ready for our departure at about 8.15 am. He

wanted to take us to take us to a small part of the Tujereng woodland we

had not had time to visit before. Driving along the track from Farakunku

the Black Shouldered Kite was in one of its favourite trees, we

encountered it regularly in this area.

This part of the wood held a good variety of birds including the elusive

Oriole Warbler, Bearded Barbets, (becoming one of our favourite birds),

Common Wattle eye, Northern Puffback, Yellow Breasted Apalis and

several Spendid and Beautiful Sunbirds – we never tired of seeing these

jewel-coloured birds.

Kartong

More than 260 bird species have been recorded at Kartong in varying

habitats: tidal mud flats, mangrove swamps, sand dunes, Guinea

savannah scrubland, foreshore, remnants of high forest and rice paddies.

Parts of the area used to be excavated for sand for the building industry.

This activity has long been halted and the old sand pits now fill up with

water from the rainy season and as a result is now a magnet for

numerous indigenous and migratory birds. You can also visit the Kartong

Bird Observatory which is on the edge of a disused sand mine. The

research station rings and studies birds in its central wetlands recording

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area. Unfortunately it was too late in the year to visit the observatory as

peak migration had passed and the observatory was closed.

However there was a wealth of birds in a wide range of habitats for us to

discover. We had driven down a dusty track and parked up near the

Observatory overlooking a flooded sand mine that was rapidly drying out

again. Not many birds her except Spur Winged Plovers, and a pair of

Purple Swamp Hens emerging from the reeds.

We walked the tracks checking the cultivated areas for House Buntings

but they had all moved on. Abyssinian Rollers and Little Bee Eaters

seemed to like these little plots and we saw several of each species. There

was also a European Hoopoe in one of the gardens. A Lanner Falcon

darted low across the path, so fast it was gone before we got our glasses

on it.

At one of the disused sand mines there was a bit more water and many

more birds especially on the muddy margins:

African Jacana, Redshanks, Wood Sandpipers, Hamerkop and

Oystercatchers. Also on the dried out mud Mas pointed out two European

Turtle Doves amongst the African Collared and Laughing Doves. There

were also Yellow Wagtails in this area. In the rushes were a party of

Yellow Crowned Bishops.

In the Savannah scrub we came across some Senegal Parrots, Village

Weavers, Grey Headed Bristlebills, Namaqua Dove and Senegal Coucal.

In flight we saw Palm Nut Vultures, Osprey, Western Marsh Harrier,

Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle, African Harrier Hawk, Lanner Falcon, Grey

Kestrel and numerous Palm and Common Swifts.

We returned to Mas’s jeep and he drove us to a grove of Boabab trees

near the foreshore. Some of the trees was heavy with fruit so Mas

collected some fruit to take home with him. The Boabab fruit is used in

local village medicines and also to make a refreshing healthy drink which

we had tried at Farakunku Lodges and can vouch for its deliciousness.

Before we went for our walk along the foreshore we stopped and had a

cold drink, purchased from a local vendor on the beach. We spent a

pleasant interlude sitting in his shelter drinking ice cold Fanta and talking

football – a universal language.

Fully refreshed we walked through Mangroves but with little success with

only a Crested Lark and a Hoopoe. The sun was relentless by now so Mas

took us along the beach where the air was much fresher. The main object

of our walk was to see White Fronted Plovers so we were delighted to

come across a party of them. Quite difficult to make out at first because

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they blended in so well with the sand, and then you suddenly realise there

were many more than you first thought.

Time was getting on so we returned to the Jeep and Mas drove us to Stala

where we had an excellent lunch siting outside the eco-lodge before

taking our much anticipated river trip.

Stala River Trip

We had a very pleasant lunch at Stala eco-lodge which is located on the

banks of the Allahein River near Kartong village in the south west of the

Gambia. The area is ideal for river tours, angling & bird watching.

Here the river Allahein forms

the border between The

Gambia and Senegal. It is quite

a wide, fast flowing river but

with some shallows containing

a few small islands scattered

along its length. Huge mounds

of discarded Oyster shells can

be seen piled high along its

banks and in some places these

shell mounds seemed to be

part of the actual river bank.

There were no specific birds on our list for this trip and we just gently

motored along seeing what was around. We had quite a large boat to

ourselves and therefore had the option to sit wherever we liked to see

any wildlife that was on offer. As we meandered along shoals of small

flying fish kept us company, leaping out of the water beside our boat.

We came to a small island and shallows and had close views of Grey and

Western Reef Herons, Great White Egret, a group of Yellow Billed Storks,

numerous African Spoonbills and Pink Backed Pelicans, Royal and Caspian

Terns, Slender Billed and Grey Headed Gulls and an Osprey. Suddenly,

Mas our guide sat bolt upright and gestured to the boat man to pick up

speed. We asked him what it was and he enthusiastically said Goliath

Heron, Mas didn’t get exited very often so we knew this was a good bird

to see. As we approached this magnificent bird it made its way right to

the top of the bush it was perched in giving superb views. Steve managed

to get some photos before the Heron flew, taking off like a light aircraft

disappearing up river, what a bird.

We turned around at this point and headed in the opposite direction,

down river, getting more great views of the birds around the island and

shallow.

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Mas asked the boatman to go closer to the mangroves and told us a bit

about them and how they grow. We saw several Pied Kingfisher and two

Great Kingfishers along the river plus two or three Ospreys perched up on

the trees lining the banks. But as we turned a corner, fishing against the

Mangroves was another Goliath Heron, this one was much closer. Mas

asked the boatman to cut the engine and we drifted with the flow of the

river towards the heron. It really is an impressive bird, especially this

close. The boatman had to start the engine again as we could have

become beached on a sandbank so we fully expected the heron to fly at

this point, but no, he was quite unconcerned by our presence and we had

the most amazing and intimate views of this stunning bird.

It had been a wonderful day and we returned tired but happy to a very

welcome shower and a delicious dinner at Farakunku Lodges.

Monday 26th March 2018

Marakissa River Lodge

Today a so called ‘rest day’ when we had not booked Mas to guide us but

we had had such a nice day at Marakissa River Lodge that we decided we

would take a trip on our own and Heather arranged for Babucar to drive

us there. This time we just stayed around the river and the camp itself. At

the river there were most of the birds we had seen on the previous visit

and in the trees, above the little jetty, were a pair of African Green

Pigeons, it was great to see them so close.

At the camp it was very pleasant to have a lazy day, having lunch and

sitting in the shade letting the birds come to us. As the day progressed

and become hotter the birds started arriving to drink from the water pots

and small pools. The first bird to arrive was a Northern Puffback, Beautiful

and Variable Sunbirds flitted to and fro in the bushes just feet away from

us and Purple and Long Tailed Starlings were frequent visitors. A Red

Bellied Paradise Flycatcher was a welcome addition as was a Malachite

Kingfisher that perched and dived into a small pool, it was so close we

daren’t move for fear of disturbing it. Most of the birds we saw on our first

visit were there this time but also there were a few familiar Warblers:

Chiffchaff, Willow Warbler and Blackcap, soon they would be on their long

journey back to Europe, perhaps Britain.

After a few pleasant hours here we asked Babucar to take us back to

Farakunku.

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Tuesday 27th March 2018

Kotu, Serekunda and Cape Point.

Today was an extra half day excursion with Mas because we were staying

three days longer than originally planned.

We stopped off at Kotu on our way to Cape Point, walking to a previously

unvisited area where there were Painted Snipe. As we approached a litter

strewn pond there were two female Painted Snipe out in the open, but

seeing us they went further into the vegetation. An Oriole Warbler gave

brief views (as usual) in one of the bushes nearby. We walked around the

pond and had some more views of the Painted Snipe as well as some

White Faced Whistling Ducks, African Jacana, Western Reef Heron and

Intermediate Egret. On the way back we found our first Rufus Crowned

Roller of the trip, perched on overhead wires with an Abyssinian Roller not

far away. We wanted closer views of the Rufus Crowned Roller so we

followed him when he flew off, Mas located him again but this bird did not

let us get as close as other Rollers had. However Steve did get a photo.

Going back to the car a Broad Billed Roller was in a tree and was much

more tolerant of us. On the opposite side of the road there was ponds

with Sacred Ibis and African Spoonbills.

Continuing our journey northwards Mas saw some Blue Cheeked Bee

Eaters on the wires so we pulled off the road to get better views. There

were quite a few Bee Eaters in the fields alongside the road and we

walked through them to get better views, seeing the most enormous

Boabab tree along the way. Further along was a bridge over the River

Gambia. A nearby sign said Serekunda National Reserve. We spent some

time here enjoying watching the Pied Kingfishers diving into the river for

fish. There were Long Tailed Cormorants, Senegal Thick Knees, Pink

Backed Pelicans and Yellow Billed Storks on a little mudflat in the river

and along the edges were Common Sandpiper and a Curlew. It was after

some time watching these birds that we noticed that another small island

wasn’t just mud - it was a crocodile!

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Lodge at Cape Point

We reached our destination – Cape Point- what a lovely place. We sat at

tables in a thatched shelter drinking cold Fruit Cocktail at the side of

crocodile lined pool, watching Caspian Terns coming in to drink and Pied

Kingfishers fishing. We would have liked to stay longer but it was time to

get back for lunch at Farakunku. We stopped at numerous points along

the way for Mas to point out an interesting bird but the best one was just

as we pulled up to the gates of Farakunku. Mas jumped out and said –

Red Necked Falcon! We got out quickly and had good views before it

disappeared over the trees of the garden. A fitting end to our trip.

This was our last day with Mas and we found it hard to say goodbye to

him as he had become a friend as well as being a fantastic bird guide and

we would highly recommend him to anyone thinking of going to the

Gambia.

28th March 2018

Tanji Beach

Heather arranged for Babucar to take us to Tanji beach which is only a

couple of miles from Farakunku. On the approach road to the beach we

encountered a comical troupe of Green Vervet Monkeys consisting of

adults and many mischievous youngsters. In the dunes before you arrive

at the beach there were lagoons which reputedly were good for waders

earlier in the season, but they had long dried up and the only birds we

saw were Little Bee Eaters. It was extremely hot and we were glad to

reach the cool sea air on the shoreline. Unlike other beaches we had seen

26

this one was spotlessly

clean and virtually

deserted. We only saw

two people, a

jogger/swimmer

named ‘Boyo’ (not

sure about his welsh

heritage) and a vender

of fresh crushed fruit

drinks in a small kiosk

with two chairs and a

table for his

customers. Both these

people were very

friendly and we

promised to stop to try his fruit drinks on our way back.

Bird-wise the only sightings of note were Caspian Terns but it was very

pleasant walking the tide-line collecting various attractive shells. After our

promised ‘Fruit Cocktail’ we were picked up on time by Babucar and

returned to the shaded Farakunku Gardens for lunch.

This was ostensibly the end of our birding trip and on the following

morning after packing up and saying goodbye to Heather, Moses and all

the staff we left for the airport with Babucar, It was an uneventful drive to

the airport and an equally smooth flight home to Gatwick Airport.

We had a pre-arranged taxi which arrived on time to take us to the

Waterhall Country Hotel. We arrived at about 10.00pm, too late for dinner

so we had requested sandwiches to be left in our room instead. We were

both very tired after a long day and were glad to turn in for a good night

sleep. The following morning we had a cooked breakfast and left for a

leisurely drive back home.

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