© 2017 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reseved

Parkjet

Construction Guide

By Craig Clarkstone

Dassault MIRAGEMIRAGEMIRAGEMIRAGE

Versions Mirage III, Kfir and V

Mirage History

Designers Notes

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If you enjoy this design please help me to fund my next project and send a donation for $10 to Paypal address :-

clicketyclarkstone@gmail.com

Thank you! and happy flying.

© 2017 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reserved. The design is free for non-commercial use only.

Craig :)

The Dassault Mirage III is a family of single-seat, single-engine, fighter aircraft produced by Dassault Aviation for the French Air Force and widely exported. Prominent operators included Argentina, Australia, South Africa, Pakistan and Israel, as well as a number of non-aligned nations.[1] Though an older design, the second-generation fighter is a fairly maneuverable aircraft and an effective opponent in close-range dogfighting.[2] In French service it was armed with air-to-ground ordnance or R.550 Magic air-to-air missiles.[1]The versatility of the design enabled production of trainer, reconnaissance and ground-attack versions, as well as the Dassault Mirage 5, Dassault Mirage IIIV and Atlas Cheetah variants.[3] A Mirage III was the first Western European combat aircraft to exceed Mach 2 in horizontal flight

IIIC

IIIE

IIIR

IIIS

I had never realised just how many variations of the Mirage there were until I started this project. I started by simply typing in ‘Mirage’ into Google until I found the design that represented the Mirage I had in my mind.

Having studied the mirage family of aircraft, I think that it would be fun to design various parts of the family of mirage planes, by designing a common fuselage shape, and have a selection of noses, tails, exhaust, canards and wing variations to be able to build the mirage you prefer.

The Mirage 2000 is slightly different, so I’ll prepare a separate build guide

Canard

Kfir

Canard

MVMCanard

Construction

Adhesives> For the majority of construction : - UHU Creativ for Styrofoam (also called UHU POR) - 3M 77 Spray adhesive.>For wing spars and motor mounts : - Epoxy. (5 and 15mins cure times are the most convenient) micro-baloons can be added to reduce weight.> For servo’s / and quick grab : - Hot melt glue gun - Caution if the glue gets too hot it will melt foam - test first!

Tapes> For holding parts tightly together whilst glue sets - Low tack masking tapes> For leading edges, hinges, general strengthening - 3M Gift tape (Purple - not green one!) - I prefer lightweight plastic hinges.> For decals - Coloured parcel tapes (strips taped to waxed paper & cut out)

Cutting parts1. Print the plans, 2. Cut around each part using scissors - allow a border of approx (1/4”) 6mm 3. Use either 3M spray mount or a very light coat of 3M 77 to the back of the parts and stick in an economical layout on the Depron foam.4. Using a safety rule and craft knife over a cutting mat - important! use a fresh blade otherwise it will drag and spoil the foam. (I find the stanley knife perfect) make the straight edge cuts, then the curved parts freehand.5. Once the parts are cut-out, keep the template stuck to the part until just before needed to help identify the parts.6. After use, I find it helpful to keep all the used tempates in case replacement parts need making. (the glue eventually dries and they don’t stick together!)

Glueing parts together.1. Ensure a really good fit - this will reduce the amount of adhesive used. The Bar Sander is a great tool for this. 2. Follow the adhesive instructions closely. 3. Use ordinary steel head pins to help keep the parts located whilst epoxy sets.4. Use objects as weights such as paperweights to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets.5. Use masking tape to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets. Also use masking tapeto along the slots for the wing spars whilst gluing the carbon rod spars into the wings. This prevents the glue protruding and gives a nice finish.

IMPORTANT Wherever the plans call for marking guidelines onto the depron, please ensure that you do otherwise it can cause problems later on. I suggest you use a Sharpie Fineliner to transfer the lines.

Before you start.

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Glue bulkhead 1 into the forward fuselage belly panel as shown

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Using the RX shelf as a guide, gently curve the forward fuselage sides using the technique below.

Glue together using UHU por

1. Place over edge of desk.firmly press down on the depron75mm (3”) from the edge of the desk.

desk desk

depron

Hand or smooth object.

2. Whilst still pressing down, Drag the depron over the edge of the desk, pulling down as you go.This motion will put a nice curl in the depron.

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Glue together four corner reinforcement strips into two 12x12mm strips. Position on the belly panel 6mm away from the outer edge.

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Glue together both parts to create the forward fuselage assembly

6mm

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Choose whether you want a single or twin cockpit. For the twin cockpit, construct as below.

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The Single cockpit has the magnet piece added.

TWIN COCKPIT

SINGLE COCKPIT

Canopy support pieces

Bridge piece

Canopy support pieces

Bridge pieceMagnet piece

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Glue the carbon spar into the slot using masking tape top and bottom. Set the wing on a flat surface with heavy books on top to ensure it is bonded flat.

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PUSHER

EDF

Page 8

Mark the fuselage lines onto the wing according to the plans, and temporarily tape the support jigs in place with masking tape.

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Dry fit to check that the lower fuselage sides follow the marked line and maintain the angle of the jigs.

x

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When 6mm away from its resting position, apply 5min epoxy to the wing and slide the lower fuselage side pieces over. Secure in place with tape until the glue is set.

DO NOT GLUE, but use the rear fuselage belly panel as an additional guide.

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Carefully trim away the lower fuselage sides and wing around the servos to allow the servos to sit flush with the upper side of the wing panel. Glue the servos in position and then using UHU por, glue in a piece of depron to fill the hole.

xTrim away and replace after servo installation

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PUSHER INSTALLATION ONLY.

Glue together the 2x pusher mount pieces together using UHU por, then glue it into the fuselage.

Glue the motor stick mount into the motor mount using hot melt glue.

Hobbyking - SKU:OR004-00602

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Cut a hole in the wing panel and hot glue the ESC in place so that air can pass on both sides (see image at bottom). Run the battery cables and servo wires (+extensions) forward.

PUSHER

PUSHER

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Adjust the EDF mount bulkheads to suit your particular EDF size and shape (maintaining the central axis)

Using hot melt glue or silicone sealant (for noise dampening), glue the front and rear EDF mount bulkheads to the EDF unit so that they align with the slots in the fuselage

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Glue the EDF bulkeads in place using UHU por.

EDF

EDF

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Trim out a generous hole around your ESC. Glue two coffee stirrers to the depron as shown, then glue your esc in the middle of the hole so that air can flow around it.

Wire your EDF to your ESC , trimming away the bottom of your EDF bulkheads to let the cables through

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Glue the two pairs of rear fuselage lower corner reinforcers in place as shown.

EDFEDF

BOTH

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The air intake on the mirage are a little small for 70mm EDF, so I have (reluctantly) cut cheater holes in the belly. These will allow air to circulate around the ESC and will maximise the efficiency of your EDF Unit.

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The pusher version doesn’t need any cheater holes. Glue in place.

EDF

PUSHER

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Look carefully where the mating surfaces meet, then apply UHU por to all joining surfaces. Before joining, thread the Servo wires to the RX and Battery-ESC cables through to the under-cockpit area.

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Carefully shape the two fuselage side corner reinforcers until a good and accurate shape is achieved. Glue the longest sanded edge to the fuselage as shown.

BOTH

BOTH

Page 15

Construct the thrust tube from thin but stiff plastic sheet, joining with nylon reinforced tape. Check for a snug fit, dry-fitting the thrust tube and rear bulkhead.

Page 1

BOTH

BOTH

EDF

Glue the rear bulkhead and thrust tube in place using UHU Por using Hot melt to connect the tube to the EDF,

For the Pusher version, trim away a 12mm wide middle section, splitting it into two pieces to fit around the motor mount panel.

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Glue the Lower fuselage top in place as shown.

Page 1

BOTHEDF

PUSHER

Page 17

Glue the Upper fuselage top in place as shown.

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Glue the upper fuselage sides in place as shown.

BOTH

BOTH

Page 18

Using the jigs, sand the fuselage to shape, uncluding under the wing.

Mask of the wing area using masking tape to protect the wing from sandpaper catching on it.

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Choose the correct nose option and glue the Nosecone alignment jig in place followed by the nosecone.

Sand the nosecone to the correct shape and continue to sand the forward fueslage area until the correct shape is achieved.

BOTH

BOTH

Page 19

Cover the top of the fuselage with masking tape, then Mark on the fuselage the correct guidelines for your canopy choice - either single or twin cockpit.

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DRY FIT the turtledeck outer pieces as shown gently curving them if necessary.

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Whilst the outer turtledeck sides are in the correct orientation, glue the middle turtledeck sides to them as shown.

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Glue the inner turtledeck sides to the two assemblies as shown.

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Glue the turtledeck top to the turtledeck assemblies.

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Glue the turtledeck shaper piece to the assembly as shown.

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Remove the turtledeck and the masking tape, then sand the turtledeck to shape before gluing to the assembly.

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The single canopy turtledeck is much longer and requires careful handling.

Glue together the depron pieces that make up the canopy and sand to shape.

Test fit to the fuselage - Build a tongue using a piece of scrap depron and 3mm liteply at the front of the canopy.

Attach the magnets to the magnet panel (or as per image above if you are building the twin cockpit version)

Epoxy the magnets to rear of the canopy so that the canopy is removable but holds firmly in place when mounted.

1. press magnet into depron to impress shape. 2. Dig out a recess for the magnetusing a sharp knife.

3. Apply glue into recess andpush magnet into it.

5. When fully cured, remove tapeand put adjoining magnet on top

6. When correctly aligned, press adjoining depron onto the sticking up magnet to impress shape.

7. Repeat steps 2-4 for the upper part.

4. Whilst still wet, lay masking tapeover the area.

IMPORTANT.Before glueing the upper magnet in, check that the magnet is the right way around!

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Fit the forward canopy piece. With the canopy in place, further shape the fuselage to get a smooth and flowing shape.

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Using the air intake Jigs as a guide, carefully shape the air intake by using a hot air gun.

Forward canopy piece

BOTH EDF AND PUSHER

Page 25Page 1

Glue and wrap some sandpaper around a dowel rod.

Mark the 3mm depron air intake position using a pencil and sand away the inside edges until a smooth internal shape is achieved - This will help the EDF unit to be as effective as possible.

EDFTrim Away

Trim Away

Trim Away

EDF

Shape the 3mm Depron Shock-cone piece to resemble a cone, and stick to the side fuselage.

Glue the Air intake in place as shown.

Sand the fuselage smooth so that the transition between the air intake and fuselage is seamless.

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PUSHER VERSION ONLY.

Stick the splitter triangle in place as shown. (This applies to all versions of the Mirage - not just the ‘E’ version shown here)

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Stick the air intake inner face onto the splitter piece as shown.

PUSHER

PUSHER

MIRAGE IIIE

MIRAGE IIIE

Page 27

Shape the shock cone to resemble a cone and glue to the air intake inner face as shown

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The pusher 3mm outer air intake isn’t quite as deep as the EDF version due to the addition of the splitter/inner air intake face. Trim excess material away. Glue to the fuselage.

PUSHER

PUSHER

MIRAGE IIIE

MIRAGE IIIE

Page 28

Using the exhaust Jigs, Curve the inner 3mm exhaust around them, taping masking tape along the inside of the join to help hold it in place.

Glue the two ends together.

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With the exhaust Jigs in place, wrap the outer exhaust piece around the inner exhaust piece, with the join at the opposite side.

Glue together. Once set, remove the jigs and masking tape

MIRAGE IIIC

MIRAGE IIIC

Masking tape

Jigs

Join

inner exhaust joint

Outer exhaust joint

Page 29

Glue the exhaust onto the assembly

Page 1

The Mirage IIIE has a slightly different shaped exhaust and vertical stabiliser but the method remains the same.

Note the chute pod is assembled using two side pieces sanded to shape.

MIRAGE IIIC

BOTH

MIRAGE IIIE

BOTH

chute pod

Page 30

The Kfir has a very short exhaust, very far forward of the other mirages.

The EDF version is quite scale, but the pusher version has a longer exhaust to hide the motor due to the vertical stabiliser overhanging at the back of the aircraft.

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PUSHER

EDF

KFIR

KFIR

Page 31Page 1

Choose whether you want an EDF or pusher model and choose the correct base,

Glue the vertical stabiliser in place using epoxy

Glue the pieces of the rocket pod together and sand to shape.

Glue in place as shown.

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Congratulations your model is now complete!

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Choose whether you want an EDF or pusher model and choose the correct base,

Use Google images to help you find your favourite Mirage and to add scale details and paint schemes! there are so many to choose from!