BROMLEY, KENT

B R O M L E YKENT

FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE PRESENT CENTURY

COMPILED FROM MATERIALS COLLECTED FROM ORIGINAL SOURCES BY VARIOUS HANDS

BY

E. L. S. HORSBURGH, B.A., F.R.Hist.S.LATE EXHIBITIONER, QUEEN’ S COLLEGE, OXFORD; EX-PRESIDENT OXFORD UNION SOCIETY

CA/i kyA. f is t- S tila.v'fc' S iCrt-J ‘f-n- j A .

WITH A CHAPTER ON

THE MANOR AND THE PALACEBY

PHILIP NORMAN, LL.D., F.S.A.

PUBLISHED FOR THE “ HISTORY OF BROMLEY” COMMITTEE

HODDER AND STOUGHTON L td .

MCMXXIX

c s

Made and Printed in Great Britain by Has ell, Watson & Viney, Ltd., London and Aylesbury

P R E F A C E

JIOR the last twenty or thirty years antiquaries, enthusiasts, patriotic | townsfolk, and others have been engaged in collecting materials for

a detailed History of Bromley.The old Bromley, which had existed with comparatively little change

for hundreds of years, was visibly passing away before their eyes. The picturesque country town, centring round the Palace of the Bishops of Rochester, and containing some four or five thousand inhabitants, which was Bromley within the memory of some who are still living, was rapidly converting itself into a large, populous modern town, which from its proximity to London was more and more in danger, with each succeeding year, o f being absorbed into the great vortex of Metropolitan suburbs.

While memories of the past still continued to survive, it was felt to be desirable that the records should be brought together in a convenient form, so that a History o f Bromley might make a link between the vanishing and the coming generations. Thus newcomers would be better able to understand the devotion and enthusiasm with which native residents regard their town, and would themselves be led to realise that they are “ citizens of no mean city,” but of one that has behind it a thousand years o f close association with our national life.

With this end in view an immense mass of material was gradually brought together, and many hands were engaged in the work of collection. There was, moreover, one man most eminently fitted by his attainments, and by his long family connection with the town, to co-ordinate all this miscellaneous information, much of which he had himself collected, and to mould it into the form of a worthy historical memorial of his native place. It was confidently hoped that Mr. Philip Norman, LL.D., would accept the position of Bromley’s Historian. The pressure of years and circum­stances has unfortunately disappointed this hope, and it seemed for a time that so much preliminary labour had been expended in vain.

But there was in the town a resolute determination on the part of a few ardent spirits that the project should not be allowed to drop. Among these was Mr. W. J. Harris, Bromley’s Public Librarian, and it was due to his initiative that early in 1908 a Committee was formed to consider the question of publishing a History of Bromley. This Committee consisted o f Mr. W. Baxter, Dr. H. J. Jlott, Mr. Philip Norman, Miss E. O. Parr, Mr. George Smith, the Rev. Donald Tait, Vicar of Bromley, Mr. Alfred Wright, with Mr. Harris as Honorary Secretary.

As a result a fresh stimulus was given to the accumulation ot material, especially by Mr. Norman, who at that time was prepared to undertake the office of Historian. He found a zealous assistant in Mr. George Clinch, and special branches of investigation were allotted to each member ot the

V

VI Preface

Committee and to others outside it. A ll this necessary preparatory work was well advanced towards completion when the outbreak o f the Great War in 1914 brought the projected History to a standstill. Mr. Norman reluctantly abandoned the task he had originally undertaken, and all the materials were deposited in the Public Library, where they lay tillI 9 2 1 - . - r

In September o f that year Mr. Percival*: Ashton resuscitated theproposal, and once more a committee was formea— the History of Bromley Committee— with Mr. George Weeks, at that time Alderman and ex-Mayor, as Chairman and Treasurer. Supporting him on that Committee were Mr. P. J. Ashton, Mr. E. G. Atkinson, Mr. W. Baxter, Dr. H. J. Ilott, Mr. Edward Latter, Miss E. O. Parr, Col. Edward Satterthwaite, Mr. Alfred Wright, with Mr. H. Alderton, the Public Librarian, as Hon. Secretary.

The first effort o f the Committee was to secure some suitable individual who could undertake the task which Mr. Norman had felt compelled to relinquish. Several attempts in promising directions only ended in failure, and at last Mr. George Weeks, on behalf o f the Committee, and on the recommendation o f my old pupil, Sir Ernest Hodder*Williams, approached me, as an old friend of his, and as one who had resided in Bromley in days gone by, and I consented to undertake the work. Unfortunately it has only been possible for me to devote to this enterprise a portion o f the very limited amount of leisure allowed me from the claims o f a busy life, and hence a task which could easily have been accomplished, by a man devoting himself exclusively to it, within a year has been protracted over a period of more than five years. No one has regretted this more than I have myself, but it was quite unavoidable.

It must be clearly understood by ever}1- reader o f this book that I am not myself an authority on the history of Bromley, and that I am not personally responsible for the accuracy o f the statements made in this volume. My business was simply to take the materials supplied to me and to work them up, to the best o f my ability, into a readable narrative. Thus, while practically every sentence in the volume has been written by me, except in the case o f the Itinerary, which is the joint work o f Mr. W. Baxter and Mr. G. Weeks, the statements which the sentences contain have been supplied to me. I am prepared to face the full blast o f criticism on questions of style and composition, but this is the limit o f my liability.

The credit for this volume as an historical record does not therefore rest with me, but with those who have worked so long and so assiduously in gathering the materials o f which it is composed. O f these perhaps the first in order o f time is the late Mr. Coles Child, who acquired the manor of Bromley in 1845. He was immensely interested not only in the venerable traditions associated with his property, but in everything which concerned the town in which that property was situated. Mr. Coles Child, both personally and through the medium of his agents, made extensive researches

Preface vii

into old records, and left behind him voluminous and well-authenticated notes, o f which ample use has been made in this v o lu m e.

A t the same time, as has been said, Mr. Philip Norman was accumulating a large body of material bearing upon almost every period and aspect of Bromley life, and some sections of this volume are practically transcripts from Mr. Norman’s MS., one most important chapter being his exclusive work.

O f Mr. W. Baxter it is not too much to say that Bromley, past and present, has been the passion of his life. No living man can be so intimately acquainted with every detail of Bromley life throughout the ages as is Mr. Baxter. For many years it has been his custom to contribute valuable articles on various questions connected with the history of the town to the District Times, and it is to his indefatigable researches that Bromley owes the preservation of many ancient documents of great importance and interest which, but for him, would have been left to moulder in decay. Throughout the compilation of this volume it has been necessary for me to keep in constant and close touch with two men who could clear up ambiguities, supply information, correct errors in my version of the story, and generally supervise my conduct of the enterprise. One of these coadjutors is Mr. William Baxter, the other is Mr. George Weeks, Chairman of the History Committee.

Perhaps between Mr. Baxter and Mr. Weeks there may exist a friendly rivalry as to which of the two is the better acquainted with everything connected with their native town. To which of the two I am the more indebted it would be difficult to say, and it has been from the first a matter of regret to me that neither of them could be induced to undertake the task which has fallen to far less competent hands. The position of Mr. Weeks as Chairman of Committee has been, I fear, a thankless one. He has had to endure over a course of several years not only the procrastination and delay incident to my conduct of the work, but also the burden of almost continuous correspondence upon every point of doubt or difficulty which has arisen in the compilation of the narrative. It is due to his invariable courtesy and encouragement that I have been induced to persevere to the end.

Foremost among others to whom the Bromley public and the readers o f this volume are indebted is Mr. Bernard F. Davis, the son of one who was so long, so honourably, and so usefully associated with the town. That which is a toil to most men is to him a recreation, for he devotes much of his leisure to delving in the musty records of the British Museum, the Rochester archives, the Record Office, and other depositories of the memorials of the past. Though only professing to be an amateur in deciphering old documents, a keen flair and much practice have given to his investigations and conclusions an authority which professional researches have only succeeded in confirming. Thus it is entirely due to Mr. Da\is that the quite erroneous statements of previous historians as to Simpson s

V l l l Preface

Place are here corrected, and what is believed to be a true narrative sub­stituted for them. But this is only one example o f the many services, in connection especially with the remote and mediaeval history o f Bromley, which Mr. Davis has rendered to historical truth. Wherever his authority for any statement in this volume is cited, the reader may rest assured that his sources have been explored with scientific accuracy.

The Committee are also much indebted to Miss E. O. Parr, whose knowledge of certain portions of the Parish is unrivalled, and who has shown herself ready at all times to undertake investigations, and to assist, in every way possible, in the conduct of this enterprise.

Several o f the illustrations are from photographs, taken by the late Mr. R. V. Harman, lent by Mr. H. G. Dunn and members o f his family; others have their source indicated upon them, and some are printed from blocks lent by Mr. H. C. Bush, for all o f which thanks are due and are here tendered.

The Committee gratefully recognise the generous assistance afforded by the Publishers in the production and publishing o f the book.

In like manner the help of the Grout Engraving Company is similarly acknowledged for technical advice and for the provision o f blocks for the illustrations at cost price.

It must be understood that this History can only claim to be complete up to the incorporation of the Borough in 1903. Indeed, the original plan was to stop at this date. To adhere strictly to this plan was not found possible in practice, and references occasionally appear to events even as late as the current year. These casual references, however, do not pretend to constitute a full history of the town from 1903 onwards. It will be for the Historian o f the future to take up the narrative o f Bromley as a Borough, and to give that prominence to the period o f the Great W ar, and the troubled years which followed it which have only been slightly touched upon in this volume.

E. L. S. H.Christmas, 1928.

F O R E W O R D

A LL these things, . . . we will assay to abridge in one volume.For considering the infinite number, and the difficulty which

they find that desire to look into the narrations of the story, for the variety of the matter, we have been careful, that they that will read may have delight, . . . and that all into whose hands it comes might have profit..

Therefore to us, that have taken upon us this painful labour of abridging, it was not easy, but a matter of sweat and watching; even as it is no ease unto him that prepareth a banquet, and seeketh the benefit o f others : yet for the pleasuring of many we will undertake gladly this great pains; leaving to the author the exact handling of every particular and labouring to follow the rules of an abridgement. ,

To stand upon every point, and go over things at large, and to be curious in particulars, belongeth to the first author of the story.

But to use brevity, and avoid much labouring of the work, is to be granted to him that will make an abridgement.

Here then will we begin the story: only adding this much to that which hath been said, that it is a foolish thing to make a long prologue, and to be short in the story itself.

(2 Maccabees ii. 23-32.)

X

C O N T E N T SCHAP.

I.

n.m.IV.

«*v.VI.

VII.

VIII.

IX.

X.

PAG 8

H I S T O R Y ............................................................................... ........

F rom P r e h ist o r ic T im es t o D o m e s d a y ..........................................................3

B r o m le y in M e d i e v a l T im es, 1086— 1 4 8 5 .............................................................9

T u d o r , St u a r t , a n d E a r l y G e o r g ia n T im es, 1485— 1730 . . 19

B r o m le y fr o m t h e E ig h t e e n t h C e n t u r y to t h e C o m in g o f th e

R a i l w a y s ............................................................................................................... 32

M o d e r n B r o m l e y ................................................................................................... 48

THE MANOR AND THE P A L A C E .........................................73

B r o m le y a n d t h e B ish ops o f R o c h e st e r to t h e E n d o f t h e

F if t e e n t h C e n t u r y ....................................................................................... 75

B r o m le y , t h e B ish ops a n d t h e P a l a c e from th e R e fo r m a tio n

O n w a r d s ...................................................................................................82

T h e P a l a c e B u i l d i n g ..................................................................................... 93

St . B l a is e ’s W e l l , B r o m l e y ............................................................................99

THE PARISH CHURCH................................................................. 105E x cu r su s o n t h e D a t e o f its F o u n d a t io n .

(i) T h e St r u c t u r e ......................................................................................109

•« (ii) T h e In t e r io r — C h u r c h y a r d ............................................................... 117

(iii) B equ ests, I n c u m b en t s , a n d M iscellan eo u s . . . 1 3 8

CHURCHES OTHER THAN THE PARISH CHURCH . . 1 3 3

BROMLEY C O L L E G E ................................................................. ^ 9

THE SURROUNDINGS OF BROMLEY TOWN . . . 1 7 9

P l a is t o w a n d F a r w ig . ***

Su n d r id g e ............................................................................................................. *9°

W l D M O R E ...................................................................................................................zi

Contentsx i i

B i c k l e y a n d S o u t h b o r o u g h

B r o m l e y C o m m o n

S im p so n ’ s P l a c e

B r o m l e y H i l l .

* 'J *1

- XI. LOCAL GOVERNM ENT.................................................................

XII. EDUCATION IN B R O M LE Y........................................................

XIII. INSTITUTIONS AND SOCIETIES . . . .rS o tid £ 9 J , 3<?/( Ctnur Mj Jt/i A ■

XIV. SPORT AND GAMES ! ................................................

(i) S p o r t . . . . . .HoC A* 5 ) JT IfotjtJ "i Jfa rut* 31 $ iCytik,«.

(ii) G a m e s a n d P a s t im e s , j u * - ..... . . . . .

(iii) A d d e n d u m . .

XV. ITINERARY OF THE T O W N ..............................................

(i) L o n d o n R o a d t o M a r k e t P l a c e . . . . .

- (ii) T h e M a r k e t -P l a c e . . . . . . .

(iii) L o w e r H i g h St r e e t t o M a s o n ’s H i l l . . . .

(iv) M a s o n ’s H il l — W id m o r e R o a d a n d N e w B r o m l e y —^ i'. j /

S h o r t l a n d s V a l l e y fr o m B r o m l e y H i l l t o M a s o n ’s

APPENDICES

A. L is t o f t h e Re c t o r s a n d V ic a r s o f B r o m l e y f r o m a .d . 1226

B . IVENTORY OF CHURCH G O O D S........................................................................

C. L ist s o f B e n e f a c t io n s t o B r o m l e y C o l l e g e — o f C h a p l a in s —

a n d o f T r e a su r e r s . . . . . . . .

D. C h r o n o l o g ic a l L is t o f t h e P a r l ia m e n t a r y E l e c t io n s

f r o m 1832 . . . . . . . . .

V A L E D I C T O R Y .........................................................................

I N D E X ..............................................

PAGE

203

21 1

227

24O

249

27 I

293

307

309

3 : 4

346

359

361

385

402

425

449

454

457

460

463

465

4 9 1LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOURED PLATES

THE OLD COTTAGE, WIDMORE .

THE BACK OF THE BELL HOTEL, 1 896

Frontispiece

• 361

BLACK-AND-WHITE PLATES

GRANT BY KING EADGAR TO AELFSTAN, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER, OF LAND ATBROMLEY, K E N T ........................................................................................................

JOHN WARNER, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER AND FOUNDER OF BROMLEY COLLEGE

WIDMORE LANE FROM THE MARKET PLACE, SHOWING THE PARISH FIRE- ENGINE HOUSE AND, BEYOND IT, THE CAGE (i860) .

CARVED PANELS FORMERLY (1532) IN THOMAS KNIGHT’S HOUSE, HIGH STREET, BROMLEY. NOW AT “ PIXFIELD

JOHN HAWKSWORTH, LL.D....................................................................................................

COMMANDING OFFICERS, l8TH KENT RIFLE VOLUNTEERS . . . .

THE MARKET PLACE, SOUTH SIDE, i860 .

m a r t in ’s h il l , 1875 . . . . . . . . . .

BROMLEY GAS WORKS : OPENING OF THE FIRST RETORT HOUSE, HOMESDALE ROAD, 18 6 4 ; LAYING THE FOUNDATION OF NEW RETORT HOUSE, 1 879

THE BISHOP’S PALACE, BROMLEY, BEFORE 17 5 6 ..........................................................

THOMAS SPRAT, LORD BISHOP OF ROCHESTER . . . . . .

GEORGE MURRAY, LORD BISHOP OF ROCHESTER 1827-1860

THE BISHOP’S PALACE, BROMLEY, 1775 ! NORTH FRONT; SOUTH FRONT

s t . Bl a is e ’s w e l l

COTTAGES, WIDMORE LANE . . . . . . . . .

BROMLEY PARISH CHURCH, FROM S.W. . .........................................................

BROMLEY PARISH CHURCH, 179 5 AND l 802 ..........................................................

ARTHUR GRESLEY HELLICAR, M.A., VICAR OF BROMLEY 1865-I904

BROMLEY PARISH CHURCH, FROM N.E., SHOWING THE CHANCEL, DESIGNED BYSIR T. G. JACKSON, R.A., ERECTED 1 8 8 3 .........................................................

INTERIOR OF BROMLEY PARISH CHURCH, i 8 6 0 .........................................................

FOURTEENTH-CENTURY DOOR, IN THE SOUTH PORCH .

THE THORNHILL BRASSES IN THE PARISH CHURCH, BROMLEY, KENT .

MONUMENT TO THE WIFE OF HARINGTON BAGSHAW, VICAR OF BROMLEY 1698-

1739 ..............................................................................................................................xiii

4 !\r %

x9 ryn*yiuL CtV

27

28 T‘

36 tj* .

45

52 Ust H t Cr

57 i \T.

60

7586 ft h

92 n ,f '/

97 / W ' W KH

100

100

105

109

” 3

xx5xx7120

122

124

</*XIV L is t of Illustrations

FACING PAGE

^ ! ; <■< MONUMENT TO ZACHARY PEARCE, BISHOP OF ROCHESTER . . . .

FACSIMILE EXTRACTS FROM THE PARISH REGISTERS : BAPTISMS, 1661 J BURIALS,

PLAGUE YEAR, 1 66 5 ; BURIALS IN WOOLLEN, 1 678 . . . .

ST. MARY’S CHURCH, PLAISTOW, KENT. ONE OF THE WINDOWS PRESENTED

BY MR. MURRAY S. RICHARDSON

WESLEYAN CHAPEL, UPPER HIGH STREET, 1 863

CONGREGATIONAL CHAPEL, WIDMORE LANE

BAPTIST CHAPEL, PARK ROAD, 1 864

BROMLEY COLLEGE, THE ORIGINAL BUILDING

BROMLEY COLLEGE : THE MAIN ENTRANCE ; THE FIRST QUADRANGLE

JOHN WARNER (15 8 1-16 6 6 ), LORD BISHOP OF ROCHESTER 16 3 7 -16 6 6 , FOUNDER

OF BROMLEY C O L L E G E ............................................................ ............

ZACHARY PEARCE (16 9 0 -17 7 4 ), LORD BISHOP OF ROCHESTER I 7 5 6 - I 7 7 4

PLAISTOW LODGETrvV cLltabu*

S,F$<

\ O'*

/3/»J iW / £y

f~- lV..w

' s- v ;PETER THELLUSSON (1 7 3 7 -I7 9 7 )

SUNDRIDGE BEFORE AND AFTER 1 79 2

M WIDMORE . . . . . .

FREELANDS . . . . . .

THE OLD COTTAGE, WIDMORE, IN I 7 1 4 .

CHARLES POTT, OF FREELANDS (1823-18 64)

IfLEAD WATER-TANK, DATED I7 I3 AND WITH INITIALS jH r

LEAD WATER-TANK, DATED I7 2 I AND WITH INITIALS J.W.

BICKLEY HALL . . . .

JOHN WELLS . . . .

TURPINGTON, SOUTHBOROUGH

THE CROOKED BILLET, SOUTHBOROUGH

BLACKBROOK, SOUTHBOROUGH, 18 20

COTTAGES NEAR BLACKBROOK

SKETCH PLAN OF BROMLEY COMMON

THE ROOKERY, BROMLEY COMMON .

tt r-VV

A Ptft

ELMFIELD, BROMLEY COMMON ,

GEORGE WARDE NORMAN (179 3-18 8 2 ), ^TAT 79

SIMPSON’S PLACE, BROMLEY, FROM S.E., CIRCA 1828

CHARLES LONG, BARON FARNBOROUGH, AND LADY FARNBOROUGH

IN THE GROUNDS, BROMLEY HILL . . . . . .

FRANK GRIFFITH (18 6 2 -19 17 ). FIRST MAYOR OF BROMLEY, I9O 3-4

I2 4

146

J5J160

162

162

169

170

176

178

181

182

190

194

194

196

199

200

200

203

204

206

206

209

209

211

221

221

224

227

242

244

263

L is t of Illustrations x v

PACING PAGE

SIR THOMAS C. DEWEY, BART. (1840-1926). CHARTER MAYOR, 1903 . . 264

LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS TO BROMLEY CHARITY SCHOOL, NOVEMBER I7 16 . . 27I

ALDERMAN THOMAS DAVIS, J.P. (18 36 -19 17). MAYOR OF BROMLEY I904-5,I909-IO , I9 IO -II .............................................................................................................288

OLD COTTAGES OPPOSITE THE FORMER ARCHERY GROUND, WIDMORE . . 314

ALFRED MYNN AND NICHOLAS F E L I X ............................................................................320

BROMLEY CRICKET CLUB, 1 8 6 7 ..................................................................................... 322

BROMLEY FOOTBALL CLUB, WINNERS OF THE KENT JUNIOR CUP, 1 894 . 330

BROMLEY FOOTBALL CLUB, WINNERS OF THE AMATEUR CUP OF ENGLAND,

I 9 I I , AND MEMBERS OF THE C L U B .....................................................................33°

HERBERT AND WILFRED BADDELEY, LAWN TENNIS CHAMPIONS 1 891, 1 892,1894, 1895, 1896 ............................................................................................................. 333

BROMLEY HOCKEY CLUB TEAM, 1 8 9 5 - 6 .............................................................................33^

“ BEATING THE BOUNDS” OF BROMLEY PARISH, MAY 2 IST, 1890 . 354. 35 5THE CORNER OF HIGH STREET AND BECKENHAM LANE . . . • 3^5

THE SWAN I N N ................................................................................................................... 3^6

THE UPPER HIGH STREET IN 1 835 AND IN 1 865 . . . . . 3^8

JAMES SCOTT, SURGEON (1770-1848) . .........................................................37°

JOHN HALL, PHILANTHROPIST (1800-1891) . . . . . . 37°

JOHN DUNKIN, THOMAS MORLEY, SAMUEL P. ACTON, JOHN NASH. . - 3 7 4

THE BELL HOTEL, 1870 . . . . . . . • • . 3 8 2

THE MARKET HOUSE AND TOWN PUMP (CIRCA i860) . . . • 38 5

HENRY CHECKLEY : BEADLE ; TOWN C R I E R ..........................................................391

ENTRANCE TO MARKET PLACE FROM WIDMORE LANE IN 1 848 AND IN 1880 392

EDWARD STRONG AND HIS STAFF . . . . . . • • 39^

TRADESMEN’S TOKENS ISSUED IN B R O M L E Y ..........................................................39^

THE ROSE AND CROWN, MARKET PLACE . . . . . • • 398

NOS. 40 TO 43 LOWER HIGH STREET, 1 862 \ SOUTHERN EN

STREET, 1865

THE WHITE HART HOTEL, 183O

REDWOOD HOUSE, HIGH STREET

BROMLEY LODGE . . . .

BROMLEY RAILWAY-STATION, i860 .

TWO VIEWS OF MASON’S HILL .

RAVENSCROFT, MASON’S HILL .

NOS. 6 l , 62, ETC., UPPER HIGH STREET, I902

OF LOWER HIGH406

416

420

422

422

425

4*7

427

X V l L is t o f Illustrations

FACING PAGE

SPARKES’ COTTAGES, MASON’ S H I L L ......................................................................................... 43°)f WIDMORE HOUSE, 1864 . . . . . • • • • 434

FIELDS NORTH-EAST OF THE T O W N ..........................................................................................434THE LODGE, BECKENHAM LANE 442

vn. COTTAGES, CHURCH ROAD 442S .H u K s t h e m il l p o n d , 1909 445

ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEX T

fy. ANCIENT BROMLEY FIRE ENGINE . . . . .

v l THE ARCHED RECESS, BROMLEY CHURCH . . . .

. >• THE FONT, BROMLEY CHURCH . . . . .

THE LACER BRASS, BROMLEY CHURCH

RECORD OF PEAL RANG JANUARY 18 17 .

WIDMORE F A R M ....................................................................................

THE OLD PLOUGH INN . . . . . . .

KESTON M A R K ........................................................... ............

THE OLD CROWN I N N ........................................................................

r u in s o f sim pso n ’ s p l a c e , a n d p l a n . . . .

THE BOROUGH ARMS . . . . . . .

BROMLEY COTTAGE HOSPITAL (THREE VIEWS) .

THE PALACE FARM. . . . . . . .

THE WINDMILL, LONDON ROAD . . . . .

PLAN SHOWING PEST HOUSE AND ITS FIELD, I72O

THE OLD POST OFFICE AND BEAN’S SHOP, 18 5 5

JOHN DUNKIN’S SHOP . . . . . . .

THE MARKET-PLACE ABOUT 1850

THE EAST SIDE OF THE MARKET-PLACE IN 1 868 AND 1 873

d o y l e ’ s a n d b a t t e r s b e e ’ s S H O P S ................................................

PLAN SHOWING POSITION OF WORKHOUSE, 1 794

MAP OF THE PARISH OF BROMLEY, 1862-68

61

. . h i

. 117. . 121

• U 3. . 201

. 219. . 220

. 223

. 237

. 267

• 299. 36z

. 363

. 367• 373• 379. 386. 395. 4°3• 437

A.t end o f book

BROMLEY’S OWN HISTORYUP TO DATE.

— *------ h * ’/ z *ISSUED YESTERDAY.

There have been more histories of Bromley compiled than probably many towns of Kent can boast of theirs, so that the long-anticipated “ History of Bromley, Kent, from the Earliest Times to the Present Century, compiled from materials collected from original sources by various hands by E. L. 15. Horsburgh, B.A., F.R.IIist.S., with a chapter on the Manor and Palace by Philip Norman, LL.D., F.&.A.,” becomes one more historical record of the ancient town in the sequence of such records, and which doubtless his­torians of the future will desire to add to. This volume, seeing that the ground coveted is “ from earliest times,”- neces-

, sarily deals with matters previously written about in the very much smaller histories which have been printed. That forms ' part, of its value and gives to the “ History of Bromley ” now issued that comprehen­siveness which is particularly needful in the transition period Bromley is passing through.

Those who know something about the unseen labour of accurately compiling his- 1 torical records of any description will appreciate what the people principally con- 1 cerned with the getting out of this twentieth century “ History of Bromley” have done

i for their fellow burgesses. The public- generally may take it for granted that the microscopic attention to and verification of detail which this compilation has demanded

I gives a value to their services not to be l computed in terms of money.

Mr. George Weeks, the* chairman, and Mr. William Baxter in particular, and other members of the “ History of Bromley ” Committee (under whose authority the book is published), may well be congratulated upon the materials furnished to Mr. Horsburgh which, together with his own erudition and the analytical skill in literary research for which he is famous, has enabled that gentleman to erect so fine a literary structure. Mr. Horsburgh hand­somely acknowledges1 the services of these gentlemen.

As Mr. Horsburgh in his preface says he is prepared to face the full blast of criticism on questions of style and com­position, those details, i f ’ they exist, need not be regarded as pertinent to this notice.

Three points of special excellence in the book are the illustrations. Mr. Philip .Norman’s chapter on “ The Manor and the Palace,” and the “ Itinerary,” written jointly by Mr. William Baxter and Mr. George Weeks, while considerably over one hundred illustrations of places, people and things in Old Bromley from the time of King Eadgpr to that of “ Doyle and Battersbee’sf shops ” add to the interest of this volume.

, Dr. Norman’s chapter on " The Manor and the Palace ” is worthy of being included among the documents of the Record Office. It deals with Bromley and the Bishops of Rochester from the earliest times through the period of the Reforma­tion.

Mr. Weeks and Mr. Baxter’s “ Itinerary of the Town ” will probably be considered as among the best things in the book. What could be better than a walk through Bromley with two such well-informed and pleasant guides, philosophers and friends able and willing to point out unerringly where the windmill in London-road was, where H. G. Wells was born, where

Simpsons Moat” once stood—a moated rum in the midst of a wild tangle of black- berry bushes, where kestrels used to build s

Consideration of Mr. Horslmrgh’s share in the compilation of this “ History of Ilromley" leads to still further admiration of his eminence in literary attainment and historical survey and knowledge. He com­mences and ends with apt quotations from a little known book of the Bible, “ The Book of Maccabees” and then proceeds with the story of Bromley front prehistoric times,

i through medieval and the Stuart periods, and the eighteenth century to modern Bromley. The Parish Church and other

'■ churches are dealt with at length. So are the surrounding parts of the town—Earwig and Plaistow, Hick ley, Bromley Common, Southborough, &c. There is a chapter on

| Local Government, a particularly brilliant one on education, institutions and societies

| are well noted, and there is an excellent | chapter on sports and games. With theso

various matters Mr. Horsburgh deals in a readable, genial, learned and scholarly manner. “ The style is the man.” Much space is given to the Parish Church; but then the Parish Church is Bromley. People Mr. Horsburgh knew and of whom he could have given delightful personal sketches, arc, many of them, but just mentioned. That, however, is tho fault (or virtue) of unavoidable compression. Yet in some way only to bo comprehended by those practised in such skill and art, the book is alive with the recorded activi­ties of individuals who have benefited tho town, added to its lustre in great or humble degree, and lived their usful lives in it.

This " History of Bromley ” is a book to buy even if it does cost three guineas. It is fascinating in interest for all to whom Bromley stands for much. It contains so much. The comprehensiveness of it is a marvel, and this comprehensiveness pre­vents its own mention in a notice for fear

that the notice degenerate into a cata­logue. Although it consists of i !)4 pages

i readers of “ Bromley, Kent, from the, j earliest times to the present century," will,

having done so, truly understand the meaning of multum in parvo. The history extends to the year 1903, the date of the Incorporation of the borough.

Mr. W. J. Harris, formerly librarian of Bromley, Dr. H. J. Tlott, Miss E. O. Parr, Mr. P. J. Ashton, Mr. E. G. Atkinson, Mr. i Edward Latter, Colonel Satterthwaite, 1 C.B., J.P., Mr. H. Alderton (Librarian of Bromley), Mr. Bernard F. Davis, Mr. H. G.

' Dunn and Mr. H. C. Bush are among those who have given valuable co-operation in the production of the volume.

[Printed and .published by Hodder and Stoughton. Ltd., and obtainable at local

'booksellers to-day.1

“ HISTORY ’OF BROMLEY.”It was resolved.-that the commendation

of the Committee’ be conveyed to the Com- i mittee responsible for the publication of (the “ History of Bromley.” -i

BROMLEY’ S OWN HTSTOR^UP TO DATE. 1

— * -------- h « / i aISSUED YESTERDAY.

There havo been more histories of Bromley compiled than probably many towns of Kent can boast of theirs, so that the Jong-anticipated “ History of Bromley, Kent, from the Earliest Times to the Present Century, compiled from materials collected from original sources by various hands by E. L. S. Horsburgh, B.A., F.R.IIist.S., with a chapter on the Manor and Palace by Philip Norman, LL.D., F.S.A.,” becomes one more historical record of the ancient town in the sequence of such records, and which doubtless his­torians of the future will desire to add to. This volume, seeing that the ground coveted is “ from earliest times,”- neces-

, sarily deals with matters previously written about in the very much smaller histories which have been printed. That forms part of its value and gives to the “ History of Bromley ” now issued that comprehen­siveness which is particularly needful in the transition period Bromley is passing through.

Those who know something about the unseen labour of accurately compiling his­torical records of any description will

I appreciate what the people principally con- ' cerned with the getting out of this twentieth century “ History of Bromley” have done for their fellow burgesses. The public- generally may take it for granted that the microscopic attention to and verification of detail which this compilation has demanded gives a value to their services not to be computed in terms of money.

Mr. George Weeks, the* chairman, and Mr. William Baxter in particular, and other members of the “ History of Bromley ” Committee (under whose authority the book is published), may well be congratulated upon the materials furnished to Mr. Horsburgh which, together with his own erudition and the analytical skill in literary research for which he is famous, has enabled that gentleman to erect so fine a literary structure. Mr. Horsburgh hand­somely acknowledges1 the services of these gentlemen.

As Mr. Horsburgh in his preface says he is prepared to face the full blast of criticism on questions of style and com­position, those details, i f ” they exist, need not be regarded as pertinent to this notice.

Three points of special excellence in the book are the illustrations. Mr. Philip .Norman’s chapter on “ The Manor and the Palace,” and the “ Itinerary,” written jointly by Mr. William Baxter and Mr. George Weeks, while considerably over one hundred illustrations of places, people and things in Old Bromley from the time of King Eadgpr to that of “ Doyle and Battersbee’sf shops ” add to the interest of this volume.

Dr. Norman’s chapter on “ The Manor and the Palace ” is worthy of being included among the documents of the Record Office. It deals with Bromley and the Bishops of Rochester from the earliest times through the period of the Reforma­tion.

Mr. Weeks and Mr. Baxter’s “ Itinerary of the Town ” will probably be considered as among the best things in the book, u hat could be better than a walk through Bromley with two such well-informed and pleasant guides, philosophers and friends able and willing to point out unerringly where the windmill in London-road was, where H. G. Wells was born, where

Simpson s Moat ” once stood—a moated rum m the midst of a wild tangle of black­berry bushes, where kestrels used to -:l *-

Consideration of Mr. Horsburgh’s share in the compilation of this “ History of llromley " leads lo still further admiration of his eminence in literary attainment and historical survey and knowledge. He com­mences and ends with apt quotations from a little known bonk of the Bible. “ The Book of Maccabees” ami then proceeds with the story of Bromley from prehistoric times, through mediaeval and the Stuart periods, and the eighteenth century to modern Bromley. The Parish Churoh and other churches are dealt with at length. So are the surrounding parts of the town—Earwig and Plaistow, Bicklev, Bromley Common, Southborougli, &c. There is a chapter on

; Local Government, a particularly brilliant one on education, institutions and societies

; are well noted, and there is an excellent I chapter on sports and games. With these

various matters Mr. Horsburgh deals in a readable, genial, learned and scholarly manner. “ The style is the man." Much space is given to the Parish Church; but then the Parish Church is Bromley. People Mr. Horsburgh knew ami of whom lie could have given delightful personal sketches, are, many of them, but just mentioned. That, however, is the fault (or virtue) of unavoidable compression. Yet in some way only to ho comprehended by thosu practised in such skill and art, the book is alive with the recorded activi­ties of individuals who have lienefited the town, added to its lustre in great or humble degree, and lived their usful livos in it.

This “ History of Bromley ” is a book to buy even if it does cost three guineas. It is fascinating in interest for all to whom Bromley stands for much. It contains so much. The comprehensiveness of it is a marvel, and this comprehensiveness pre­vents its own mention in a notice for tear

that the notice degenerate into a cata­logue. Although it consists of 494 pages

| readers of “ Bromley, Kent, from the earliest times to the present century," will, having done so, truly understand the meaning of multum in parvo. The history extends to the year 1903, the date of the Incorporation of the borough.

Mr. W. .1. Harris, formerly librarian of Bromley, Dr. H. J. Ilott, Miss E. O. Parr, ■ Mr. P. J. Ashton, Mr. E. G. Atkinson, Mr. Edward Latter, Colonel Sattertliwaite. C.B., J.P., Mr. II. Alderton (Librarian of Bromley), Mr. Bernard F. Davis. Mr. H. G. Dunn and Mr. II. C. Bush are among those who have given valuable co-operation in ihe production of the volume.

[Printed and published by Hodder and Stoughton. Ltd., and obtainable at local booksellers to-day.i

“ HISTORY OF BROMLEY."It was resolved,’ that the commendation

of the Committee'be conveyed to the Com- ■ inittee responsible for the publication of , ' (he “ History of Bromley.”

BROMLEY.

From the Earliest Times to the Present Century.

— %The picturesque old town of Bromley, whicli

had existed with comparatively little change for hundreds of years, has now become a large populous modern borough, and in a hundred years its population has grown from less than 4,000 to over 35,000. To provide a link ue- tween tho vanishing and the coming genera­tions, quite a number of its townspeople have engaged in the fascinating task of collecting materials for a detailed history of the town, and Mr. E. L. S. Horsburgh, B.A., F.R.Hist.S., has re-written and worked up this information into a delightful narrative, which has been published by Messrs. Hodder and Stoughton. Ltd., in a handsome volume, “ Bromley from the Earliest Times to the Present Century,” with a chapter on the Manor and the Palace by Mr. Philip Norman, LL.D., F.S.A.

Its close proximity to London adds each year to the danger of Bromley being absorbed into the great vortex of Metropolitan suburbs, and therefore this history ot the borough ap­pears at an opportune moment, and will serve to preserve this mass of important information concerning Bromley from its earliest days. Mr. Horsburgh merits hearty congratulations not only on the comprehensive character of his work, but upon the concise arrangement of the large quantity of detailed information at his disposal, with the result that easy reference is made possible to any particular phase of the town’s history during the long period unde# review.

Commencing with pre-histcric times, we find the earliest definite reference to Bromley in 662, when Ethelbert was King of Kent, hut it is suggested that the town's history may he said to have begun when it became connected with the See of Rochester. Then comes an in­teresting gathering at Penenden Heath, Maid­stone, about 1076. After the Norman Conquest, Odo, Ear! of Kent, half-brother of the Con­queror, appropriated estates belonging to the See of Rochester, including the episcopal domain in Bromley. Gundulf was Bishop, and Lanfranc was Archbishop. As a result of the latter placing his grievances before the King. an assembly at Penenden Heath deter­mined that Odo should make restitution of much that he had appropriated. And so Bromley’s history is traced to the Domesday survey; through mediaeval times; the Tudor, Stuart and early Georgian periods; from the 18th century to tho coming of the railways and finally modern Bromley.

EXECUTION ON PENENDEN HEATH. Commenting on crimes of violence, the

author quotes a description of the procedure adopted in regard to the execution on Penen­den Heath, in 1810, of Philip Nicholson, who had murdered Mr. and Mrs. Eonar, of Cam­den House. “ It may be mentioned, as an instance of an obsolete mode of carrying out the extreme penalty of the law, that a hurdle or sledge—a shallow box about 6ft. by 3ft.— was provided: at each end.w^is a seat just capable of accommodating two persons. The murderer, double ironed, was first placed in ; it with ids back to the horses: he was also pinioned with ropes, and round his shoulders was placed the fatal cord. By his side sat the executioner: opposite the Rev. Mr. Brain- stow, a Catholic, and by his side sat one cf the Maidstone jailors with a loaded blunder­buss. Tho procession proceeded at a very slow pace from Maidstone to Penenden Heath, where tho capital sentence was carried into effe< t. The body was then driven in a post- chaise to Bromley, and delivered over to Mr. James Scott, surgeon, for dissection Nichol­son’s skull, remarkable for an extremely tine set of teeth, is still, or was until quite re­cently. m Ui- possession of Dr. IT. J. Holt.”

BISHOP OF ROCHESTER AT BROMLEY.; For centuries the Bishops of Rochester had a residence at Bromley, and Mr. Philip Nor­man deals witn this subject. The last Bishop to live at Bromley Palace was Dr. G. Murray, whose son became Vicar of Chislehurst. and among whose descendants is the Marquess Camden. It is interesting to note that Dr. Murray was barely 30—the age to which a man must have attained before being conse­crated Bisiiop—when his cousin appointed him to the See of Sodor ami Man. He was the last Bishop to wear an episcopal wig. In 1845 the Ecclesiastical Commissioners launched a scheme for the sale of the Manor and Palace' of Bromley, which were purchased hy the late Mr. Coles Child.

Passing on Mr. Horsburgh turns to the Parish Church, and says that some time be­tween 1250 and 1400 there was a Gothic jChurch. He gives the history of and describes the Parish Church, as well as others in the town, mentioning that Nonconformity in any organised and permanent form dates from about 1770. On December 2nd, 1772. Wesley preached there, and commented on “ the open­ness and artlessnes of the people.” Then comes the story of Bromley College, founded by Df. Warner, Bishop of Rochester, for widows of the clergy; the surroundings of Bromley, with particulars concerning the prin­cipal houses.

LOCAL GOVERNMENT AND EDUCATION. Fewr occupations ara of more absorbing in­

terest than to traca the development of local government from the earliest times, and this can be done with regard to Bromley, while the progress of education is equally interesting to follow'.

The closing chapters deal with the numerous institutions and societies which have existed or still exist—educational and social, medical, philanthropic, social and economic, and musi­cal—sports, games and pastimes, and finally a lengthy Itinerary of tho town.

The appendices contain a list of the In , cuinbents of Bromley from 1226: an inventory of Church goods made in 1553, showing the wealth and importance of Bromley Church before the Reformation; benefactions to and Chaplains of Bromley College from its] foundation in 1666; and the results of Parlia­mentary elections from 3832 to 1924. There is also a useful index and a map of Bromley, while there are two coloured plates, nearly a hundred black and white Nplates, including1 pictures of Bishops of Rochester, who resided at Bromley, and over twenty illustrations lO| the text

Published at three guineas in cloth and five* guineas in leather, this volume, remarkable!

| for its comprehensiveness, conciseness and ! accuracy, is one of great value, and while a work of absorbing interest to Kent people and

jothers, will always he useful for reference as showing the progressive stages in the develop^ ment of the last or Kent's Boroughs to b^

, granted a charter of incorporation.

BROMLEY

From the Earliest Times to the7 - Present Century. ;' 1. ’

The picturesque old town of Bromley, wlncli___ !!♦*!« ohonrrp

HT.STCVR VB ISH O P OK R O C H E STE R AT HROM LE’iFor centuries the nishops of Rochester hart

a residence at Bromley, and Mr. Philip Nor man deals wito this subject. The las, Bishop

hart existed with comparatively little change tj j jye at g romley Palace was Br. C. Murraytor hundreds of years, has now become a large • - ' 1-----r'1'u

I live ell- rni/mu.,, a ------- ---- _------ ----------- . * . . . . , , ~ | whose son became Vicar of Chislehurst, aridpopulous modern borough, and in a hundred am whosa Ascendants Is the Marquess years its populalinn lias grown from less than u l8 interesting to note lliai Dr.■4.000 to over 35,000. To provide a link ue- M llrraywas L,areiy 30~-,ho age lo which a tween the vanishing and the coming genera- ' ’ , ,la , e sUamed before being conse-lions, quite a number of its townspeople have • nisiioo—when his cousin appointed himengaged in ihe fascinating laslc of collecting ' c ,e e of Sodor an-i Man. lie was thematerials for a detailed history of the town, ]ast Bishop t0 weaP an episcopal wig. In 1845

” the ‘ --------------------- •»"and Mr. E L. S Horshurgh, 11.A, F.R.Hist.S., el Bccicsiastical Commissioners launched a has re-written and worked up this information “into a delightful narrative, which has been Z ’ J S L wimh !■ ,,« nurchased bv the I'ni.iishe-i bv Messrs. Hodder and Stoughton, .^ ^ i r '^ o i e s Child. Pinto a delightiui narrauve, wuicu 0t Bromley, whichpublished by Messrs. Hodder and Stoughton. Mr. coles Child.Ltd., in a handsome volume, “ Bromley from Passlng on Mr. llorsbtirgh tmns to tneLtd., in a nanasome volume, muum,t n U...the Earliest Times to the Present Century,” 1 as*in® on i . ------with a chapter on the Manor and the Palace Parish rC! ‘i rta V?h 1 ™ X X V ? - n t h u-bv Mr piiiiin Norman i t u c a twGen 1 50 3.nd 1400 tlicr© was a Gothicdj mf. i limp isorman, LL.D., F.S.A.^ jChurch. He Rives the history of and describes- —----- r. as wen as others in the> Mr. rump ttui xuan, ____

Its close proximity io London adds each ^hP^Pa^islV'cTiurch year to the danger of Bromley being absorbed town mentioning that Nonconformity in any 1,1 f[le Steat vortex of Metropolitan suburbs, organised and permanent form dates from and therefore this history of the borough ap- about 1770. On December 2nd. 1772. Wesley pears at an opportune moment, and will serve ,,ITached there, and commented on “ the open- to preserve this mass of important information nest - n(i a ,.tiessnes of ihe people.” Then concerning Bromley from its earliest days. comes the story 0f Bromley College, founded Mr. Horsburgh merits hearty congratulations „ D(. Warner Bishop ot Rochester, fornot only on the comprehensive character of Widows of the clergy the surroundings of his work, hut upon the concise arrangement Brom,cv wlth particulars concerning the prin- of the large quantity of detailed Information c j„al b0usesat his disposal, with the result that easy . i . f-nve-nvurv-r »vn Knrr.vTtovreference Is made possible to any particular LO( AL GOVERNMENT AND EDI CATIONphase of the town’s history during the long Few occupations ars of more absorbing in- period undo* review. tciest than lo tracs the development of local’

jrln-i

BROMLEY IX KENT/’

terest than to trai'L (l' arS l°t?roe"l and' thisromloy, Kent! From th« Earliest'Times *"•••— "h nre-hlstcrlc times, we find government from l t0 Brom ley, while 3 Present Century.” By E. L. 8. Hors-the°earliest definite reference to Bromley^ in ^ n ^ d o n of education is equally Interesting >. (Hoddor and Stoughton. 3 gns.)

ts^ su^gested '^ha^^ ^^ ow m 's^history1 m ay he ^ J ^ X s i n g c a p to r s deal with the numerous * volume, m ad e possible by the com- said to"have begun when it became connected san<1 societies which »>ave e*^'| I and sut-umed efforts of a group oilwi t h the Sec of Rochester. Ihen ® 0" still exist— educational and socla • ,X u s l t -s p lr ite d c i t i e u s . is un exempli . y !'tone1' a hom* MteiM h^N orm a n Conquest, ^ ^ ^ ' ^ ‘ g a ^ a n d pastimes, and llnally „f local patriotism. W e visit tb m ,Olio, Ear! of Ken. half-brother of the Con- ’ u m erary of ihe town. p la c e s it. lik e case would try toqueror. appropriated esmtes belongmg m th appendices contain a ilst " f,n!entoryhI° il 'vhile timc is- No Imaginabledomain i'^^Bromley.' 'Gumfulf'^was^B^hop! Jcum'^n^^f Hroml f from J228- showing* the>R devouring men ever teas so and Lanfranc wasVArchbishop As a result 0f Church good* o( Hronrtey chmvhlrous us London devouring villages,of the latter placing his grievance before the wealth *“dR‘ ;ormation; benefactions to a[,l‘ -;easelcss stretching out of its brick-

. . ----------- p r hanmi ns of Bromley College from « ^ 0rtar tentacles is alw ays followedfoundation In 1606; and the residls I further growth of its vast body, usneniarv elect lon» from .832 lo a m Bromtev. allows green llelcls and gobbles Up aiso a useful lndPx a" '! ® ep pIaies. nearlybls and townlets that for centuries while there are two col “ f mcludlnst lire of their own Tar away. Brnm a hundred black ann R he'ster_ wbo resldedp Kent, tlirougli many reigns was as pictures of uishops illustrations lunnt a place of that kintl as any nowat Bromley, ai npert in the Metropolitan fringes,the text guineas In cloth and flve;B Morland CO11M have found any-published at three P1,1" vrn.Vme remarkahleL ...

0 1<1 tier pinuiife S.xw _______ __Ki-'g, an assembly at Penenden Heath deter mined tliat Odo should make restitution of much that he had appropriated. And so Bromley's history is traced to the Domesday survey; through medleeval times; the Tudor, Stuart and early Georgian periods; from the I8U1 century to the coming of the railways and finally modern Bromley.

EXEOCTION ON PENENDEN HEATH.Commenting on crimes of violence, Hie

author quotes a description of the procedure• ‘ L- r>n Ppnpn.

me extreme peouitj v. .... .... ....... .......or sledge—a shallow box about 6ft. by 3ft — ment >.t .. . . ■--- was provided: at each end was a seat Just. granted a charter of Incorporation.capable of accommodating two persons. The _________________________________murderer, double Ironed, was first placed In it with his back to the horses: he was also pinioned with ropes, and round his shoulders was placed the fatal cord. By his side sat the executioner; opposite the Rev. Mr. Bram- stow, a Catholic, and by his side sai one cf the Maidstone Jailors with a loaded blunder­buss. The procession proceeded at a very slow pace from Maidstone to Penenden Heath, where tho capital sentence was carried into I effect. The body was then driven in a post- chaise to Bromley, and delivered over to Mr James Scott, surgeon, for dissection. Nichol­son's skull, remarkable for an extremely tine I set of teeth, is still, or was until quite re cently. in the possession of Dr. II. J. Ilolt.” I

glimmer \Vns so enchanting unit a little mysterious that Agorot might hove wished to paint It. Very near the mill pr nl, <,s Ihe present writer well remembers, nightin­gales were thic-k in tho lanes down to twenty years ngo. With stn-h credentials behind them r> small number of right Brom­ley people formed a Committee and pur­sued their Joint researches for years in order that a fitting memorial of the times that were might be written. This has now l»eea well Accomplished hv Mr. E. 1.. S. Horsburgli in a solid ami attractive volume carrying on Ihe chronicle front Savon times to our own day. \ chapter on the Manor and the Palace has bqpn added by Mr. Philip Norman, to whofh the whole enter-

7 t- $*y p ^ -iB r o m l e y , K e n t , f r o m t h e e a r l i e s t t i m e s

T O T H E P R E S E N T C E N T U R Y , C O M P IL E D FROM M A T E R IA L S C O L L E C T E D FROM T H E O R IG IN A L

| SO U R C E S B Y V A R IO U S H A N D S . By E. L. S. H o r s b u r g h . (Hodder and Stoughton. 63s. net.)

This very substantial tome on the history of Bromley in Kent is the less formidable since Mr. E. L. S. Horsburgh compresses with skill the general history into 71 pages;

i and this is followed by a series of chapters : on subjects of interest such as the chapter 1 on “ The Manor and the Palace ” by that j experienced and most competent antiquary

Dr. Philip Norman who, amid a wealth of other material, discusses the vexed question of the site of St. Blaise’s well, and gathers all the available material as to this famous* chalybeate spring, but fails to solve the problem of the site of the holy well. Mr. Horsburgh takes up the story of the

i Parish Church and says that “ as no mention [ of such a church occurs in Domesday, the ' inference may be drawn that Bromley Church I originated somewhere within the period of forty j years following the Domesday Survey.” But : why ? It was apparently no duty of the com­

missioners to record the existence of churches, though they often did so. Indeed, Mr. Horsburgh admits that the silence of Domes­day “ cannot be regarded as conclusive.” i The joint dedication to St. Peter and St. [ Paul is evidence of a pre-Norman origin, but it is not certain that this w as the original dedication, though there is early evidence. The chapel of the manor was dedicated to St. Blaise, but it is certain that the church and the manoroliapel existed at the same time. The pre-Norman origin is likely but not -

I certain. Other chapters deal (inter alia) with the famous Bromley College for “ twenty poore widowes of orthodox and loyal! clergymen ” founded by John Warner, Bishop of Rochester, in 1666 ; with the environs of Bromley, with local government (Bromley apparently never became a medieval borough), with education and sport (Bromley wras one of the early homes ; of cricket).

What is the origin of the name Bromley ? Mr. Horsburgh derives the name from the word “ brom ” (Bromleag or Bromlega) and most antiquaries appear content. But is this so ? Curiously enough, identical names occur in a line for some distance on both sides of the River Thames, Bromley-le-Bow being an example. It would seem possible that these wrere tribal settle­ments in touch with one another'by boat, and perhaps the names of the settlements w ere derived from the names of tribal leaders. In fact the name of the contiguous Lewisham 1 was so derived.

W B R O M L E Y IN K E N T \

» • ' Issue may perhaps b e - profitably reopened. Hardly sufficient space is given to the Roman settlements in the neighbourhood. The late Mr. Leland Duncan, in his scholarly and admirable history of Lewisham, notes the fact that in 1806 some Roman antiquities were found in Sydenham containing part of a decree of the Emperor Trajan ill favour of the veterans of the auxiliary cohorts serving in Britain. Mr. Horsburgh records the discovery at Widmore of Roman cinerary unis. If .a connexion with Watling Street is discovered, it may prove that Bromley was the settlement of retired Roman veterans. The place first comes into written history with the Charter of 862 recording King Ethelbert’s grants to Dryhtwald. his Minister, of ten ploughlands at Bromleag. The date when Bromley becomes associated with the see of Rochester is uncertain. It may have been in the eighth century and it is indisputably associated in the tenth century but later than 955. The manor at the date of Domesday was in the possession of the Bishops of Rochester and the area was identical with that which still existed in 1871, 4,706 acres. This small area lived an unimportant life throughout the Middle Ages and, indeed, until modern times. The ravages of the Black Death Mr. Horsburgh puts at “ more than half the population ” for the whole country and includes Bromley as a ravaged area. There is no evidence for disaster on that scale, and Bromley, an out-of-the-way and healthy spot, may have been exempt. Indeed, j Bromley, apart from the Bishop’s records and the story of the Palace and of the families ' that settled in the neighbourhood, does not present a full or thrilling history, and as late as 1662 had a population of less than 700. But the eighteenth century recognized its health-giving properties; and apparently the twentieth century has the same instinct since the little township has grown into one of the great dormitory towns of London, and it is well that the Bromley dwellers should know all that there is to know about a place that has a very ancient history. There is even a ghost in Simpson’s Place, the history of which spot Mr. B. F. Davis has recon­structed and stirred the ghosts of earlier historians of note.

Im t h p J o t o p It irw r (Envoi* T

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f ^ ^SH O M L U Y IX K E N T ^ t p ./r j^ Sir,—111 the review of Mr. Honburgh'e liUlory

of Bromley, Kent, the writer rjioriilate.-. on the origin of tlie name Bromley, anggestinK lliat it is I doriveii from tlio name of u tribal leader, and mentioning Brondoy-by-Bow in connexion with this tlieory. With resjiert to the latter [dace it may lie said that the derivation from Brum or ' /(room and fcj/, a field, appears always to have ' Is-cn accepted locally, the oldest printed local history adding in support that a large field formerly existing was known aa Broomfield, a | name perpetuated in the existing Broomfield- | street. This, of course, does not rule out your j reviewer’s theory. Tliere is no evidence of a | Roman settlement in tho neighbourhood of I Bromley-bv-Bow, tiiough Uiere was almost certainly a Homan burial-ground ill tho adjoining | district of Old Ford. The oarliest known reference j to tlie Middlesex place-name occurs in 1X03 in tlic Feet of Fines for London ami Middlesex, uliere tlie form is Bmmbeleg, other form- l« ing Brembeley, Brombellex. Bnonbelbeie. BrambeA Brameley, and Beetle ley, all of which seem !• indicate the Anglo-Nuon origin.

n. FREEMAN Bt’LLEN. Borough Librarian.

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Chapter I

F R O M P R E H I S T O R I C T I M E S T O D O M E S D A Y

\T jf ^ H E parish of Bromley, consisting of between four and five thousand t+~>o 5 • s «-<- acres of land, was, to the extent of one-fifth of it, nothing but wood-

J_L land and waste even as late as the close of the eighteenth century (1798). It may be reasonably inferred that in prehistoric times the whole district in and around the modern town of Bromley was covered by woods and undergrowth. Very conspicuous among its flora was the common broom, and from this feature of the landscape the name Bromleag, or, in Latin form, Bromlega, was ultimately derived, meaning the heath where the broom grows.

Neolithic man seems to have found a home there, attracted doubtless by the presence of a river and numerous springs, for neolithic implements have been unearthed at so many places in and near Bromley as to afford con­clusive proof that the district had a considerable population during the later part of the Stone Age.

O f the conditions in succeeding ages nothing is known until we reach the period of the Roman occupation of Britain. The discovery at Widmore ** - !l ^in 1864, in the grounds o f Beechfield, the residence of Mr. James W. Ilott, of the remains of several Roman cinerary urns, is evidence that the Romans were there, and that some Romans cremated their dead there, but these facts are insufficient to justify a theory that there was any considerable Roman settlement within the present parish of Bromley. The great main Roman road, Wading Street, ran at some distance to the north, and, though Bromley may have been connected with Wading Street by a cross-road, no traces of such a connection have been discovered.

The earliest definite reference to Bromley is found in a charter, dated a .d . 862, preserved in the British Museum. It records that Ethelbert, King o f Wessex and Kent, grants to Dryhtwald, his minister, ten ploughlands at Bromleag. In the deed o f gift the boundaries of these lands are precisely defined, and within the uncouth spelling of the Anglo-Saxon scribe it is still possible to identify the familiar localities of to-day. Thus ‘ Langanleage ’ is Langley ; ‘ liofshema ’ is Lewisham ; ‘ modingahema mearce ’ is Motting- ham, just as ‘ bromleaginga mearc ’ is the ‘ mark,’ or boundary, of the Bromley people. Farnborough, Keston, Cray, Wickham, are also capable o f identification.

But the history of Bromley may be said to begin only when it became connected with the see of Rochester. Precisely when this connection was established is uncertain. The statement by Hasted in his History of Kent Tthat Ethelbert, King o f Kent, gave to Bishop Eardulf and the Church of Sr. /A V .'Andrew at Rochester six sulings, or ploughlands, in Bromley, rests upon a document which is no longer to be found. Mr. George Clinch, after careful

4 B r o m l e y , Kent

investigation, thought that no K ing o f Kent named Ethelbert was even a contemporary o f Bishop Eardulf o f Rochester, and that the grant, if made, was by King Eadbert, who ruled in Kent from a .d . 725 to 760. A gift of land, which subsequently included the manor o f Bromley, is recorded by Dugdale in his M on asticon as having been made in a .d . 747 as the joint donation o f the Kings o f Mercia and Kent. But until the time of King Eadgar, in the tenth century, the history is obscure. Kent was subject to frequent ravages by the Danes. The whole county, which included the see o f Rochester, was for the most part in a deplorable condition ; even the list o f Rochester’s Bishops is, during this period, at times imperfect, and there is, therefore, no sure footing on which a definite assertion may be based.

Though there can be little doubt that the connection between Bromley and the domains o f the Bishops o f Rochester was o f early origin, no record which can be regarded as indisputably authentic is available till the tenth century. Two donations o f Bromley land were then made to the see of Rochester, or rather two donations o f the same land, one by a certain Byrhtric o f Meopham, who, with iElswyth his wife, bequeathed land at Bromley to St. Andrew’s Priory, Rochester, when vElfstan was Bishop. This gift, however, as the testators expressly state, was not an original grant, but only a confirmation o f a grant previously made by members o f the same family. W e learn, however, from the Rochester Registers that after Byrhtric’s death the deeds of the land were either stolen from the monks or were never delivered. The Bishop took the case before the King and his Witan, with the result that on receipt of certain moneys, mentioned both in the charter and in the Registers, K ing Eadgar granted the lands in question “ to the venerable Apostle o f Christ, Saint Andrew, and, for propitiatory money, to Ailfstan, priest of the Church o f Rochester.”

The original charter thus granted by King Eadgar is in the British Museum, and, by the courtesy o f the Museum authorities, a photographic facsimile is here given. It is in Latin, and confers upon the Church of Rochester “ ten measures, which the inhabitants o f Kent call ten ‘ sulings,’ 1 in that place where the tillers o f the soil have already given the name Brom­ley.” It is given in perpetuity, and free from all restrictions or reservations, except only “ the case o f (military) expeditions and the building o f a bridge or fort.” “ And if any man should presume in his audacity to lay violent hands on it, let him know o f a surety that he, quaking and trembling, will give an account o f his actions before the local Judge, unless he shall previously have preferred to give worthy recompense.”

A t the end of the actual charter is a paragraph in Anglo-Saxon stating the boundaries o f the land, which may be rendered as fo llow sT " First on

1 Suling— a word peculiar to Kent. It represented as much land as a yoke o f oxen could plough in a year. It is equivalent to about 180 acres.

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From Prehistoric Times to Domesday J

the east, the boundaries of Chiselhurst, then to the boundaries of Crofton ; then from there to the boundaries of Rugebeorg; then, on the south side, the boundaries of Keston, and onwards by the Guard-place; then, on the west, the boundaries o f Wickham, and the boundaries of ‘ Beohhaham ’ [Becham] ; then, on the north, the boundaries of Beringaham, and the boundaries of Mottingham, and thence, east again, on to the King’s boun­daries ; then to Chiselhurst. This is the charter of the ten sulings that Eadgar the King gave to Saint Andrew, Christ’s Apostle, as a heritage for ever.”

The charter states that the said gift was made “ in the 955 th year from the incarnation of our Lord Jesus Christ,” and therefore the charter itself is commonly dated a .d . 955. This date, however, applies to the gift, and not necessarily to the charter, and may refer to the original gift by Byrhtric. As Eadgar did not become King until 957 at the earliest, and as the charter is signed by Dunstan in his capacity of Archbishop of Canterbury, an office to which he did not succeed until after 959, it is clear that Eadgar’s charter is of later date than 955. 'V A n ow £e>%cia -V a j i ip u d tZ Q 6 j .

The land, however, was not long permitted to remain in the quiet posses­sion o f the monks of Rochester. On the death of King Eadgar, the widow of Byrhtric, who retained the lands on lease, was induced by her kinsmen to possess them by violence. With the assistance of the alderman Eadwin, and “ the folk that was God’s adversary,” they compelled the Bishop, on peril of all his property, to give up the charters. The movement was encouraged, if not instigated, by King Ethelred, who was at this time at enmity with the monks o f Saint Andrew. The identical land, defined in the charter of 862, was given by Ethelred to his minister dSthelsig in 987. A few years later, however, in 998 Ethelred became friendly to the Church and reconciled to the Rochester monks. The greater part of the lands were duly restored to them (six sulings), and from this time forward there is no record of any further disturbances. A year or two later the Danes sailed up the Medway, made themselves masters of Rochester, defeated the Kentish forces, and for the time being “ ruined everything.”

In the troublous times which followed, the history of Bromley is a blank until after the Norman Conquest. The Conqueror signalised his triumph by creating his half-brother Odo Earl of Kent. Odo, already Bishop ot Bayeux, was singularly deficient in a sense o f ecclesiastical fitness, for he took advantage of the destitution and demoralisation of the Church by appropri­ating various estates belonging to the see of Rochester, including the episco­pal domain in Bromley. But he soon found himself confronted by a man ot character, wielding an influence over the Conqueror superior to his own. Lanfranc was now Archbishop of Canterbury, and in 1077 Lanfranc had installed his friend Gundulf as Bishop of Rochester, the bishopric being still a feudatory of Canterbury, and thus in a position to benefit by the support and assistance of the Primate. Lanfranc, once firmly seated upon the metro-

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6 B r o m l e y , Kent

politan chair— appointed by the Pope, and in favour with the King, to whose son he was preceptor— determined to attempt to recover the possessions belonging by right to the sees o f Canterbury and Rochester.

He laid his grievances before the throne, and, as a consequence, the K ing convened a solemn assembly o f the whole county at Penenden Heath, near Maidstone. To that assembly those who were known to be most learned in the ancient laws were specially summoned. The Bishop of Constance, Gosfridus, presided over the deliberations, and, after three days o f disquisition and consultation, it was determined that Odo should make restitution o f much o f that which he had appropriated, among the lands thus returned to Rochester being at any rate a part o f the manor o f Bromley. In the Registrum Roffense the date o f the assembly on Penenden Heath is given as a .d . 1076, but a somewhat later date, which will coincide with Gundulf’s tenure o f the see (consecrated March 19th, 1077), is more probable.

It was while Gundulf held the see o f Rochester that the great Domesday Survey was completed. What it tells about Bromley is not much, but the little that there is is o f special interest. The entry, as it stands in the original, must be quite unintelligible to all but experts, but its importance demands a place for it in a history o f Bromley. It runs as follows :

“ Terra epi Rovcestre.“ Isde’ eps’ ten’ Bronlei in Bronlei Hund. p. vi solins se defd. T.R.E.

& mo’ p. I ll Tra’e XIII car’ . In dno sunt. II car & X X X uilli. cu’ XXVI bord. hnt X I car Ibi I mold de IV sold. & II. ac’ pti Silua c pore. T.R.E. et post’ ualuit XII lib. & X sol. modo X VIII lib. & tarn’ reddit X X I lib. II solid, minus.”

Expanding the contractions and abbreviations, the document stands:

“ Terra episcopi Rovcestre.“ Isdem episcopus tenet Bronlei, in Bronlei Hundredo, pro vi solins se

defendebat, tempore Regis Edwardi. Et modo pro tribus. Terra est XIII carucarum. In dominio sunt II carucae; et X X X villani cum X X V I bordariis habent X I carucas. Ibi I molendinium de IV solidis et II acrae prati. Silva c porcorum. Tempore Regis Edwardi, et post valuit XII libras et X solidos; modo X VIII libras, et tamen reddit X X I libras II solidos minus.”

Translated into English, we have a series o f solid facts which throw con­siderable light on the extent, population, and general character o f the district in 1086 :

“ Tand of the Bishop of Rochester, in the Hundred of Bromley.“ The same Bishop holds o f Bromley, in the Hundred of Bromley, for

six sulings in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). And now for three.

From Prehistoric Times to Domesday 7

There is the arable land of thirteen plough-teams. In demesne there are two plough-teams. And thirty villeins with twenty-six borderers have eleven teams. There is one mill of 4s. and two acres of meadow. Wood for one hundred hogs. In the time of King Edward and after it was worth £12 10s. Now £18, and yet it renders £21, less is .”

From the text of the entry we pass to its actual content. What are the essential facts which we learn from Domesday ?

The Manor of Bromley in a .d . 1086 was in the possession of the Bishops o f Rochester. The extent of the manor had diminished, since the time of Edward the Confessor, being now assessed on the basis of three sulings instead o f six. The inference is that much of the land had gone out of cultivation since the Confessor’s time if the assessment for Danegeiy was only half of what it had been.

The arable land, amounting in all to thirteen carucates,1 or the equiva­lent of what thirteen teams of eight oxen apiece could plough in a year, was cultivated partly by the actual lord, i.e. by the Bishop directly. This is the meaning o f the Latin word dominio, rendered in the translation demesne. The lord retained in his own possession two carucates. The remaining eleven were cultivated by villeins and borderers, of whom the former numbered thirty, the latter twenty-six. Villeins were so called because they belonged to the vill, or manor, on which they were born; and although attached to the soil as serfs, and capable of being sold as an integral part of the land, they yet enjoyed certain privileges which differentiated them from slaves.

Bordarii, or borderers, were villeins of a lower class, whose services to their lord were of a more menial character. Adopting the common estimate o f five to a family, the thirty villeins and twenty-six borderers may approxi­mate to a total population of between two and three hundred people.

The mill mentioned was a water-mill, worked no doubt by the water of the river Ravensbourne, for windmills were not introduced into the country until later. Traces of an old mill were to be found in comparatively modern times. The woodland was evidently rich in oak trees, affording an abundant supply o f acorns for pigs.

The last notable fact is that, though the dimensions of the manor had shrunk since the times of the Confessor, its taxable value had very consider­ably increased. Bromley, for reasons unexplained, ran contrary to the

1 Assuming the carucate to be equivalent to the suling, as seems to be the case— viz. 180 acres— the extent o f the Manor in 1086 was as follows :

Lord’s demesne . . . 360 acresMeadow . . . . 2 »In occupation of villeins, etc. 1,980 „Waste, wood, common, etc.,. 2,364 „

Total 4,706 the area in 1871.

8 B r o m l e y , Kent

general rule, for Domesday shows the taxable value o f land to be generally less in 1086 than it was in the days o f the Confessor.

Hasted has credited Bishop Gundulf with the first foundation of the episcopal palace at Bromley. From the fact, however, that Gundulf was a great and durable builder, and that the palace at Bromley was a dilapidated ruin within less than a hundred years o f Gundulf’s death, and from the further consideration that a manor connected so closely from very early times with the see o f Rochester was likely to have contained almost from the first some sort o f residence for the Bishop, the attribution o f the palace, in its first foundation, to the architectural genius o f Gundulf must be received with caution. But the express mention o f the Bishop’s demesne in Domesday may be taken with some confidence as implying a residence o f some sort, even i f we reject the statement of Hasted as being improbable.

We have now arrived at what may be called the first landmark in the history o f Bromley— the period of Domesday Survey— and we may con­veniently at this point endeavour to form some sort o f picture of the Bromley o f that day.

It was an episcopal manor, much reduced in extent from what it had been at an earlier day, consisting o f a fair proportion o f ploughland, but for the most part thickly wooded or lying as waste. Rude cottages, scattered here and there in isolation one from another, sheltered some fifty or sixty families, of which all the members, in a greater or less degree, were the serfs o f the episcopal overlord.

The principal building was probably the residence built at some time for the accommodation o f the overlord himself on the occasions o f a visit to his manor, and it may be that something in the nature o f a chapel, attached to the residence, did duty for a church. For Domesday, notwithstanding its particularity about villeins and hogs, makes no mention o f a church. This omission, however, is by no means fatal to the supposition that a church was then in existence.

The whole presents a picture o f nothing else, I am afraid, than of a straggling and rather miserable little place, with no signs o f a commodious, far less o f a cultured, existence— a handful o f rude peasantry in their neces­sities, their monotony, and their routine not far removed from the animals which they tended or from the earth on which they expended their daily toil. Such was in all probability the Bromley o f a .d . 1086, and yet not less— pos­sibly, from the presence o f an episcopal residence, rather more— advanced than the generality o f similar manors.