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INSIDER

8 A Shore Thing? How retailers are trying to

heat up summer biz in New York’s Hamptons.

12 FN Spy Rampage’s new leading lady talks

about her first big shoe purchase and why she

believes classic style is the way to go.

14 Show Notes A look at the issues that were

top of mind for retailers at OR and FFANY.

16 Brazil Retail Trends A mall boom and

digital revolution are reshaping the market.

FEATURES

18 A Love Affair Alexandre Birman got hooked

on shoes at a young age. Now he’s taking bold

steps to turn his business into a big global player.

24 Brazil Games Local labels prove their

competitive edge with dashing new looks.

THE LIST

35 Shoe of the Week São Paulo’s Lane

Marinho serves up a fresh rope-tie sandal style.

36 Good Taste Osklen creator Oskar

Mehsavaht talks filmmaking and eco designs.

38 Inspiration Point How Ipanema

translates luxury jewelry trends into wearable

beachwear.

39 Burning Question What the world should

know about Brazilian footwear brands.

40 Slides Rule Count on sleek minimalist

sandals to be a spring hit for women.

44 First Look An insole company is bringing

its comfort expertise to shoemaking.

45 Five Questions NSRA president Jeff

Greenberg weighs in on major issues for retail.

46 Strings Attached Girls shoes favor ghillie

laces for the spring ’17 season.

48 Leader Board Tom Florsheim Jr. on making

tough decisions and ensuring the future of his

family’s legacy.

49 Weave a Spell A look at the romantic

beginnings of men’s label Casablanca 1942.

FN PICK

50 Mod ‘Squad’ Cara Delevingne rocked

Louboutin boots on the red carpet in London.

5

24At left: Gig Couture dress, Catarina Mina bag, Zeferino ankle-strap sandals. At right: Renata Campos top, Gig Couture skirt, Le Diamond earrings, Atitude sunglasses, Cine 732 bracelets, Sarah Chofakian d’orsay pumps

ON THE COVER

Photographed by VICTOR AFFARO

Johanna Birman wears Alexandre Birman’s

Clarita heels and a dress by Paula Raia.

Hair & Makeup: Cris Biato

Fashion Editor: Mosha Lundström Halbert

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Michael Atmore Editorial Director

Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director

Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor

Anna-Lisa Yabsley Online Managing EditorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort

Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor

Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor

Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, BusinessCharlie Carballo West Coast Digital Editor

Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s

Rachael Allen Associate Web ProducerNikara Johns Associate Editor

Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s

CORRESPONDENTSSamantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London

Miles Socha Paris Luisa Zargani Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO

Ash Barhamand Photo DirectorOona Wally Bookings & Production Editor

Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone Photographers

Leah Jubara Video Producer & Editor

ADVERTISINGSandi Mines Vice President & Publisher

Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director

Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerGiulia Squeri European Account Director

Gomatie Sanichar Office ManagerEmanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator

Elizabeth Carcich Sales Coordinator

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICESStephanie Siegel Director of Integrated Marketing

Cass Spencer Creative Director, MarketingSuzette Minetti Digital Sales Planner

AUDIENCE MARKETING

Ellen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive DirectorPeggy Pyle Consumer Marketing Director

Janet Menaker Senior Director, Digital Marketing & Strategic Development

Randi Segal Senior Director, Institutional SalesSuzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager

Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager

PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production DirectorJohn Cross Production Manager

PREPRESS PRODUCTION

Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly

SUMMITS & EVENTS

Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing

Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC

Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development

Ron Wilson Director, European Operations

FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

I N S I D E R

While many shoe players continue to bet on the Hamptons, a rapidly changing market forces retailers to stay nimble and focus on innovative marketing strategies.

By Katie Abel

A Shore Thing?

fter spending the past six years

building Tenet into a year-round

fashion destination in Southamp-

ton, N.Y., owner Jesse Warren

knew the time was right to

expand elsewhere in the affluent area.

He had long been eyeing Newtown Lane in

East Hampton, particularly the space occupied

for years by Scoop. So when the longtime

retailer suddenly went out of business and

closed all of its doors earlier this summer,

Warren took action.

“Being a local, I knew it was one of the best

spaces. I kept my ear to the ground and made

sure we had the opportunity to move in there,”

he said. In late July, Warren debuted Tenet’s

store there. He plans to keep it open through

the Hamptons Film Festival in October — and

maybe longer.

The retailer stocks a variety of brands,

among them Soludos, Isabel Marant, Com-

mon Projects and Golden Goose. This summer,

Warren also brought in emerging name Sarah

Flint, and the designer is teaming with the

shop for an in-store event in Southampton

later this month.

“Footwear has always been a strong per-

former for us, and it’s a healthy part of our

business,” said Warren.

While Tenet already had roots in the

Hamptons, some fashion players entered the

market for the first time this year with tem-

porary stores. The pop-up phenomenon has

become more common across the country, but

it continues to define the Hamptons landscape

because so much of the business is done during

the summer months.

There’s no doubt that more fashion players

are vying for attention on New York’s so-called

East End, and insiders said the market is still

ripe with opportunity.

“Everyone knows there is business to be

done, and accessories is definitely an area of

expansion,” said Faith Hope Consolo, chairman

of the retail leasing, marketing and sales divi-

sion at Douglas Elliman Real Estate.

Aquazzura — a standout success story in

a difficult luxury climate — decided to make

a splash this year with a seasonal location in

East Hampton. The move came on the heels of

its New York flagship opening and ahead of its

debut in Miami’s Bal Harbour Shops.

On a recent Sunday afternoon, shoppers at

the Hamptons boutique were trying on some of

the brand’s most popular styles, including its

Christy lace-up flats and Wild Thing sandals.

“We are seeing many of our existing New York

clients shop as well as new ones who holiday in

the area,” said Aquazzura creative director Ed-

gardo Osorio. “It’s an area that gives fantastic

visibility to the brand.”

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The ability to reach a well-heeled crowd and expand

her consumer base was also compelling for Los Angeles-

based Jenni Kayne.

The designer, known for her d’orsay flats, set up shop

in Southampton with a pop-up in a tucked-away location

on Main Street. “For some time now, I’ve dreamt of open-

ing a store in New York. What has stopped me, however,

is distance,” the designer said.

“I love being hands-on and present,” she added. “I like

to [visit] my stores regularly. Because of this, having a

summer pop-up in the Hamptons seems like the perfect

middle ground right now.”

While retailers who are testing the area said they are

pleased with early results, storeowners with permanent

locations are cautious about their prospects this season.

August is traditionally the busiest

month across the Eastern Long Island

communities, but many storeowners

expect business to be flat compared

with last year. In addition to overall

economic uncertainty, the weather has

been a major factor once again in 2016.

“We’ve had too many sunny week-

end days,” said Billy Lawson, owner of

Shoe Inn, an area mainstay that counts

locations in East Hampton and

West Hampton.

Still, the footwear veteran said he

was pleased to see that early fall merchandise was sell-

ing. “I spread out the seasons more now,” said Lawson,

adding that sneakers and athletic-inspired looks con-

tinue to lead the way at his Newton Lane store in

East Hampton.

A few blocks away, Sneakerology owner Gary Dworetz

said that while business has been uneven this summer,

there are definite pockets of strength. Adidas Originals

product is “the hottest thing going,” Dworetz said. “Peo-

ple come in and are so happy we have Stan Smiths.” Vans

and Under Armour are also among Sneakerology’s top

performers, while Nike is still its biggest vendor overall.

Other retailers are also making a major play for the

hot active space. In May, Tory Burch converted her East

Hampton store into a Tory Sport location following the

concept’s launch earlier this year.

To generate excitement, the designer hit the road

last month in her traveling pop-up: a 1972 Volkswagen

bus, which had been converted into a mobile surf shop.

Shoppers were encouraged to post Instagram photos

of the bus and use the hashtag #torysport to get a

discount on merchandise.

There’s no question that digital and social initiatives

have changed the game this summer.

For example, Los Angeles-based e-tailer Revolve

shelled out big bucks to rent a house in Watermill for the

month of July, bringing in social stars Kim Kardashian,

Nicole Richie, Chrissy Teigen and

Hailey Baldwin to host events. The

company also invited influential

bloggers to take up residence — and

document their experience on social.

“New York is a huge market for

us, and being a West Coast company,

it was important to make our mark,”

said Raissa Gerona, VP of brand

marketing and strategic partner-

ships for Revolve. “The Hamptons

has that perfect vibe. It’s beautiful,

but it’s also aspirational — and we

wanted to show that lifestyle to our customers.”

While the company was determined to ramp up buzz,

Gerona said there was no product being sold at the

house — and that was intentional. Instead, influencers

donned styles from the site, including Raye, Revolve’s

biggest shoe brand.

In another social play, Tretorn partnered with Mon-

tauk hot spot The Surf Lodge to outfit staff members in

the brand for the summer. Tretorn, which is marking

its 125th anniversary, will also unveil a pop-up there on

Aug. 26 and is working with blogger Justin Livingston to

bring attention to the initiative.

THE ITALIAN WAYA small sandal player is making big waves in the Hamptons market.

Locals and vacationers visiting Southampton are often surprised when they walk into the Il Sandalo store on Jobs Lane.

Besides the dozens of sandals on display — from simple metal-lic looks to intricate bejeweled designs — there is another interesting element of the shop. A craftsman, surrounded by lasts, leathers and embellishments, sits in the front corner of the store, toiling away on custom designs.

“If he wasn’t here, we would just be another shoe store,” said Fabio Tesorone, one half of the brother act behind Tesorone Brothers, which produces the label out of its factory in Naples, Italy. (Tesorone’s brother man-ages operations at the Italian headquarters.)

“Our customers have the abil-ity to customize any of our shoes. They can change the heels or mix and match the materials.”

Case in point: One mother-daughter duo visiting the store last Monday was eager to dress up a casual slip-on with a shiny silver material for the upper.

Il Sandalo, which has oper-ated a Southampton location for several years, also has a store on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Fla., where Tesorone spends the winter months.

The #revolveinthehamptons hashtag was used about 5,000 times this summer on Instagram. 10

The Tory Sport traveling pop-up

Inside Jenni Kayne inSouthampton

Influencers show off Raye shoes in the Hamptons.

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“Everyone knows there is business

to be done, and accessories is

definitely an area of expansion.”

Faith Hope Consolo

STAFF PROMOTION

Nikara Johns has been

promoted to associate editor

from editorial assistant. Johns,

who joined FN in 2014, will play

a bigger role in reporting and

writing for the print magazine

and Footwearnews.com.

12 I N S I D E R Sarah Jessica Parker and Paul Andrew were both honored at the ACE Awards last week.

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Rampage has tapped actress, model and 2012 Miss USA winner Olivia Culpo as the new face of its fall ’16 campaign. Culpo said she was thrilled to follow in the footsteps of Gisele Bündchen, Irina Shayk and Chrissy Teigen. “It’s an honor to be included in the group of women who have been the face of Rampage in the past,” she said. FN Spy talked to the fashion fanatic about her shoe collection and style.

How do you define your personal style? “It’s very clean and streamlined. I like monochromatic looks, clean lines and well-tailored pieces. I strive to wear pieces that will still look good in years to come. Audrey Hepburn did that so well. You could wear most of her wardrobe today, and it would not look dated.”

Do you have a favorite pair of shoes in your closet? “I love a pointy-toe pump. I have them in tan, white, black and nude. They go with almost everything. I also like my collection of over-the-knee boots. They add sexiness to simple jeans and dresses.”

Do you have a favorite shoe memory?“I remember buying my first pair of [Christian] Louboutin at a sample sale. I was so excited. If you saw them today, you would laugh because they are over the top. Maybe I will bust them back out someday.”

What do you love most about fashion?“Fashion is like art. It is such a creative outlet for me to pair pieces together for a finished effect. Designers, new and established, inspire me because so much time and effort goes into each piece. I respect fashion and the emotion and story that it conveys.”

The New GirlRampage spokeswoman Olivia Culpo

on big shoe moments and timeless style.

Flying Coach Stuart Vevers, who joined Coach as creative director in 2013, continues to create a new vision for the brand. “It was important as part of my reset for Coach that it felt youthful and had the energy of youth,” Vevers told Footwear News last week at the 2016 Ace Awards. “For a fresh start, you need that.” With that in mind, 19-year-old actress Chloe Grace Moretz is the face of Coach’s fall ’16 campaign. “She has the ease and effortlessness,” Vevers said. “She’s authentic.”

Olympic FeverWhat’s Alepel designer Adriana Epelboim-Levy’s favorite Olympic sport? Gymnastics. “I love to see the floor routines and how those young girls exude such femininity and grace in a controlled space,” she said. As for the shoes she’s creating (produced in Brazil) for her female consumers, Epelboim-Levy has a color story in mind for spring ’17. “I love the burnt brown tones coming that are also paired with soft neutral hues and taupes,” she said.

By Kristen Henning

With contributions from FN Staff

Retail Reviews CC Corso Como is hitting the expansion trail. The Brazilian brand recently revamped its e-commerce site to feature a larger showcase of shoes and a more user-friendly model. The label launched on Lord & Taylor’s website, as well as in three locations. When they’re not plotting expansion, the CC Corso Como team is looking for-ward to watching the Rio Olympics. “Brazil is well represented on both the male and female volleyball teams,” said Stefani Coelho, export agent for the brand.

Stuart Vevers

Rising StarsHeading to FN Platform next week? Footwear News will host a panel with emerging foot-wear designers to talk about spring ’17 trends, standing out in the market and working with celebrities. FN associate fashion editor Christian Allaire will moderate, and speakers include Chloe Gosselin, Archie Hewlett of Duke & Dexter and Sheena Parks of Matisse. The event takes place on Aug. 15 at 3:30 p.m. at the Las Vegas Convention Center’s South Hall, on the second level in room S229.

Chloe Gosselin

A lookfrom Alepel

CC CorsoComo

hile the mood was upbeat at last week’s Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City, executives at the brands exhibiting at the show believe there’s plenty of room for improve-

ment moving forward. And they differ in what issues they consider

to be the most critical.Under Armour’s Chris

Lindgren, VP of outdoor and training footwear, said he believes the industry would benefit from doing a better job protecting the areas where the consumer plays.

“If there’s a road you’re used to going up, and one day there’s oil trucks and oil exploration, you’ll never go on that road again. If too many disappear, you may no longer participate in that activity,” he said. “[And] the consumer stops buying products because they can’t go to those places anymore.”

But if people aren’t interested in participat-ing in outdoor-based activities to begin with, the health of recreational places is irrelevant. Vasque VP George Curleigh said he believes that while participation is steady, attracting new consum-ers is a struggle.

“Our industry is only as strong as the people who participate in it,” he said.

Part of the issue with reaching a wider audience, according to Curleigh, is identifying who today’s outdoor participant is, not ignor-ing how they use nature, and accepting that they differ greatly from traditional enthusiasts.

“People aren’t doing the big

two-week backpacking trips. Kids now are going for one or two days, not going on extended trips,” he said. “Those who have been in the industry for a long time judge that; they say they’re not hardcore like we used to be. We’ve got to change our attitude.”

Getting shoppers excited about product is critical, too.

Linda Brunzell, CMO at Merrell, believesoutdoor brands could findinspiration from theirathletic counterparts.

“If you look at athletic brands, they’re continuously bringing newness to the mar-ket and they’re very bold on their technology statements,” she said. “We have to be very bold and forthright as to why consumers should be excited

about what we have.”Brunzell said that excitement could best be

created through product innovation and bold consumer messaging.

Some executives, however, think that innova-tion alone isn’t enough to motivate the public. Instead, offering a shoe built to tackle multiple terrains and activities, straying from activity-specific silhouettes, is attractive to those who are shopping for footwear.

“This market is going through a sig-nificant shift; the consumer is look-

ing for a multi-use versatility and lightweight current product. They expect a lot,” said Steve Meineke, president of Keen. “It has be-come a bigger requirement to be a versatility product versus a single-use product.”

But versatility isn’t the only thing brand heads believe is needed in footwear.

“Hiking shoes now are no dif-ferent than they were 10 years ago, outside from material upgrades,” said Golden Harper, founder of Altra. “We’re trying to give people fresh solutions — something they haven’t seen, something that’s functionally superior. [And] I think everyone is trying to do that to some degree.”

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14 I N S I D E R DSW hosted an event celebrating its children’s launch during FFANY week.

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Execs at the OR show sound off on the need for more product innovation and effective messaging to court consumers. By Peter Verry

What Will It Take ToDrive Outdoor Ahead?

In a bid to battle big-box retailers, independents are feeling pressure to bring in styles earlier than before — but the shift is causing anxiety among storeowners grappling with more markdowns.

At FFANY last week, independents shopping the show said they continue to examine their strategies in a difficult climate. Susan Grossberg, owner of Brooklyn, N.Y.-based Shoe Palace, which has three stores, faces the challenge of introducing new merchandise before her customers are ready to buy. “We need to compete with department stores,” she said, referring to retail heavyweights that are quick to get product in and put it on sale. “We can’t [slowly] gear up to a new season. We need to buy so early.”

New York-based Shoe Parlor has brought in styles earlier but often finds they’re not selling. “We get spring product into the store in January, but it doesn’t move until March,” said Jason Rogowsky, CEO of sister business ShoeParlor.com. “[These stores] have put it on sale by then, but we still have it at full price. While we want to be fresh and new with product, it doesn’t sell that early.”

For spring ’17, Rogowsky plans to battle the com-petition by offering trend-right athletic looks as the category continues to reign supreme. “Sneakersaren’t going anywhere,” he noted. “We want to curate the looks the market doesn’t have [widely available].”

The athletic category also caught the attention of Bianca Caveny, footwear buyer for HSN in St. Petersburg, Fla. — particularly athleisure looks for women, a strong category for the shopping channel. However, she noted, “You have to make sure you have the right upper. There’s lots of sameness. We need to give [consumers] something different.”

According to Caveny, overall brand as well asproduct differentiation is critical in today’s market-place. “Each brand has to have its own mark,” she said.“Each has to speak to what their brand represents.”

In the athleisure segment, merchandise with stories behind them will continue to attract consum-ers. “Technology-oriented products are a growth category,” said Fred Salerno, VP of sales and market-ing for Bare Traps and Footwear Unlimited in Fenton, Mo. “These products make the customer look [twice]. They have both eye and feel appeal.” -— By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Retailers at FFANY Bemoan Buying Challenges

From top: Bare Trap Rebound,

Waldlaufer sneaker

“People aren’t doing the big backpacking trips. ... Those who

have been in the industry for a long

time judge that.”George Curleigh,

Vasque

The OR show

Steve Meineke

As competition gets more fierce and consumers hold back on buying, some indie shops might be forced to change course.

Iguatemi São Paulo

16 I N S I D E R Iguatemi operates 17 shopping centers across Brazil.

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Retailers and brands sound off on the rise of luxury malls, e-commerce, social media and more. By Christian Allaire

Brazil Retail: Four Trends to Know

large fashion assortment.New concept retailers have emerged as well.

“A good example is Netshoes,” said Alexis Frick, a research manager for Brazil at Euromonitor Inter-national. “They opened a brick-and-mortar outlet, but to purchase something, you have do it through a tablet in the store.”

What’s App Phenomenon Brazilian footwear brands are increasingly embracing What’s App to communicate with customers. The cross-platform messaging app

— which lets users text data versus SMS — allows easy messaging between phones such as iPhone, BlackBerry, Android, Windows Phone or Nokia. To use the app, brands typically advertise their What’s App number on their social media pages, treating it like a new-age customer service line.

“The app gives us a direct link to the customer,” said Marcela Basto, creative director of Brazilian shoe brand Marcela B. “Some people don’t feel comfortable talking on the phone or stepping out to go to the store, so they make the first contact with us through What’s App.”

Basto said the app’s main advantage is offer-ing a more personal — and frequent — connection with customers. The brand can send clients photos or audio files of their latest shoes and update them whenever new products or promotions hit the store.

“What follows is either an immediate sale, or they ask us to set aside a specific pair so they can come to our store,” said Basto.

Getting Social Brazilian footwear brands are using social platforms, such as Twitter, Snapchat and Instagram, to engage with consumers and drive sales.

One brand that has amped up its social media approach is Melissa, the Brazilian label focused on jelly shoes. It has more than 5 million follow-ers on Facebook, with a monthly reach to about 11 million users.

“We have different objectives for each of the channels that we decided to work with,” said Raquel Scherer, Melissa’s global director of com-munications and strategy. “But directly or indi-rectly, they are all equally important to us when it comes to converting likes into sales.”

One new way that players are using social media to push retail is through strategic partner-ships with influential Brazilian bloggers. Schutz, for example, recently reposted photos from blog-ger Dandynha Barbosa wearing its shoes. (She currently has 105,000 followers on Instagram.)

“Bloggers have a strong influence over the Brazilian fashion market,” said Fabiola Guimaraes, brand manager at Schutz. “Consumers trust them and want to buy what they wear. We have seen strong sales as a result of each post, and at times the style pictures become our best-seller.”

Scherer agreed these collaborations have to be as organic as possible. “The final goal is to have consumers identify with the influencers — creating that desire to wear something similar,” she said.

Luxury Mall BoomThough high-street shopping destinations such as São Paulo’s Rua Oscar Freire are still thriving, consumers are increasingly looking

to malls for their convenience and variety, not to mention enhanced security enforcements — an ongoing concern in the country.

Luxury hot spot São Paulo is home to two large multibrand shopping malls: Shopping Cidade Jardim and Iguatemi São Paulo. The latter holds an especially impressive number of high-end footwear stores, including bigwigs Chris-tian Louboutin and Salvatore Ferragamo, among others, as well as Brazilian brands such as Alexandre Birman.

A rising trend in these malls is the pay-by-installments option, which is unique to the Brazilian market.

“Since the cost of [goods] is so high in Brazil, all of the stores sell in installments,” said Birman. “When you swipe your credit card, they ask you how many times you want to pay. There is no interest rate on that.”

Iguatemi CEO Carlos Jereissati said foot-wear consumers are also embracing the shopping mall format due to wider selections of stock and sizing. “A level of service is especially important in the footwear arena, as customers prefer to try shoes on before making purchases,” he said.

“The main advantage of shopping at the mall is you can check the quality of the brand and its products very closely,” added Cristiano Rodriguez,

creative director of Zeferino, which is carried in Iguatemi São Paulo.

The Rise of E-Tailing A new crop of e-commerce websites is catering to Brazilian consumers. While the new shopping malls have appeal of their own, shoppers in

Brazil also favor the click-and-deliver approach.Farfetch — an e-commerce site that partners

with Brazilian boutiques — carries a curated selec-tion of the stores’ products and then broadcasts them to a global online audience. The site’s focus is not to divert customers from shopping the Brazil-ian stores, but rather to enhance the experience.

“Although an increasing number of customers are shopping online, they will always enjoy

the brick-and-mortar experience,” said Taleeb Noormohamed, Farfetch’s chief growth officer. “What Farfetch shows is that you must blend the physical experience with the digital — both sides must co-exist to strengthen

each other.”As a result of local partnerships with

boutiques, Farfetch carries an assortment of Brazilian footwear brands, including Schutz, Sarah Chofakian and Luiza Barcelos — labels that have also invested in their own e-commerce businesses as well.

Another player in the Brazilian e-commerce field is Gallerist, a blog-meets-shop that displays its latest products as editorial spreads. Amazon Brazil is also growing, though it has yet to carry a

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Melissa’sSão Paulo store

Alexandre and Johanna Birman, photographed for FN last monthin Brazil

A Love Affair

Alexandre Birman opens the doors to his Brazilian home and footwear kingdom for an intimate look at how he mixes his sharp business acumen and unwavering passion. By Mosha Lundström Halbert

Photographed by Victor Affaro

But the man himself is most fond of a defini-tion his 4-year-old daughter, Olga, recently came up with when asked to describe what her father does. “Meu pai sabe como fazer um sapato,” she said in Portuguese to her private-school class-mates, the majority of them the offspring of bankers, lawyers and engineers. Direct transla-tion: My father knows how to make a shoe.

The little girl’s classmates laughed — and Olga continued explaining: “Yes, he knows every-thing about shoes. He is a shoemaker.”

To prove his eldest daughter right (his second child, Vera, is 2), Birman visited the school a few months ago and explained shoemaking to 50 skeptical kindergartners. “I showed them how

the sole, upper, materials and components come together,” he recalled. He also held a contest en-listing the students to paint their rendition of his signature Clarita sandal (the heeled version ac-counts for more than half of the Birman brand’s sales). The winner received a monogrammed pair in their chosen color combo.

This sweet story is emblematic of Birman’s preference for youthful thinkers, which is evi-dent in multiple areas of his life. “I like to surround myself with young people,” admitted the 40-year-old, whose ambition is insatiable.

While Arezzo & Co. already dominates Brazil’s domestic market — the company sells more than 11 million pairs of shoes annually — Birman has now set his sights on conquering the compli-cated and challenging global market.

Footwear News traveled to Birman’s home and offices in São Paulo and to the company’s factories in Southern Brazil for an exclusive look inside the Arezzo empire and the entrepreneur’s unwavering passion for footwear.

Family TiesHow did a working-class family from Belo Horizonte in Brazil’s interior become fashion footwear players of such scale?

A quick history: In 1972, brothers Anderson and Jefferson Birman closed their eyes and

here are three versions of Alexandre Café Birman. Internationally, his first and last names call to mind a luxury label of women’s footwear often in curvy bombshell proportions and crafted out of

reptilian exotics. Then there is his impresario status in his native Brazil, where he is CEO of the publicly traded Arezzo & Co. and oversees one of the country’s largest shoe empires, which includes his namesake label plus Arezzo, Anacapri, Schutz and the latest, Fiever.

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19C O V E R S T O R Y

its total store count is 537 (489 are franchises). The family still owns 52 percent of the company.

One of Birman’s strengths is his ability to attract savvy team members and investors to his brands. He also has a knack for understanding what sells. When he wears his creative hat, Birman turns to an extensive team to help him execute his vision.

“He is for sure very determined — it’s one of his talents,” said Anderson. “But when it comes to hu-man relations, he’s always improving.”

He’s a better talker (as anyone who saw him speak at the 2011 Footwear News Summit can attest) than attentive listener, according to sev-eral sources who cited his impatient leadership style, but then again, he’s got a need for speed. In addition to achieving a 6.4 percent year-over-year net revenue growth since the IPO, Birman’s also a medaled Ironman. He’s data-obsessed, works hard to beat records and likes to win, in all areas.

Brand BrazilBirman might be on a roll, but there are still plenty of obstacles in his native land. To the foreign press, the news out of Brazil is alarming, skewing toward the negative: Zika Strikes Again! Petrobas Scandal! The Economy’s Tanking! Disaster Olympics!

It might not be the country’s brightest moment, but Birman, a measured patriot who participated in protests calling for the former President Dilma Rousseff ’s impeachment, has his own take on the state of the union.

“Every country has its issues,” he said. “We prac-tice democracy and are a peaceful place without some of these terrible problems of terrorism in Europe or the racial [tensions] that are aff ectingthe U.S.”

For him, the biggest hurdle facing Brazil is a lot more fundamental: A number of people still live in extreme poverty. And as for Zika, he thinks the media has it all wrong. “We are in a situation where the news abroad is making more noise than here,” said Birman. “[The virus] was small, and

randomly selected a spot on a map of Italy. They stopped on Arezzo, a small Tuscan city, and a shoe brand was born. (Four years later, along came An-derson’s son, Alexandre.) By the end of the decade, Anderson and Jeff erson’s aff ordable jute-covered wedge was a national hit.

During the 1990s, Brazil’s middle-class boom and the country’s restrictions on foreign imports allowed Arezzo to rapidly expand its wholesale and retail footprint. Hundreds of stores were opened, and a young Alexandre Birman had a front-row view of all the action.

“He was born in a shoebox,” said AndersonBirman, who today is chairman of Arezzo & Co.“He was around 6 years old when he started getting interested and would follow me [during] my daily routine at the factory. I noticed he was talented.”

By 12, Alexandre created his fi rst style and was hooked on the shoe business. But he didn’t decide to join the family venture. Instead, Birman started his own brand, Schutz, in 1995. In contrast to Arezzo’s classic heels, his new label was infl uenced by the grunge scene of the times and launched with a chunky lug-sole hiker.

“I started with a $3 million investment from my father,” he recalled, over traditional Brazilian pao de queijo bread and espresso. “The fi rst year I made $1 million, the second year a couple million, and so on. It was all the capital I needed to create the brand and become self-suffi cient.” (The designer refl ected on his unique journey after an FN shoot with him and wife — and constant source of inspiration —Johanna Stein Birman in their plush, open-concept home, featuring high-ticket art, smartphone con-trolled movable walls and views of São Paulo’s tony Jardim neighborhood.)

Birman spent the fi rst decade of his career build-ing Schutz into a footwear force. By 2007, when the brand was raking in annual revenues of more than 120 million reals (or $64 million), Anderson invited his son to merge with Arezzo. (The elder Birman’s brother, Jeff erson, left the company in 2005.)

Alexandre Birman rattles off facts and fi gures about the father and son’s share swap and valuation of the new company with an uncanny matter-of-factness.

Once his father turned 60 and the company pre-pared for an IPO in 2011, the senior Birman handed over the leadership reins. “We don’t believe that CEOs over 60 are a good idea,” Alexandre said, add-ing that even though he may have fully embraced the role, he loathes the stuff y title. “Olga was right. Just call me a shoemaker.”

He’s being modest, though not very convinc-ingly. A study of the company’s fi nancials confi rms

Arezzo & Co. has 2,500 employees, with an average age of 30. 20

SCHUTZ: THEN & NOW

A lug-sole heeled hiker

for the late ’90s

AREZZOReliably trendy yet still appealing to a slightly older, more conservative customer, Arezzo, which is only sold in Brazil, has a loyal following for its low-cost off ering (most styles hover under the $70 mark). Current campaign star: Gisele Bundchen. With 385 stores, it accounts for 57.9 percent of total company sales.

SCHUTZAimed at contemporary risk-takers, the label’s fast-fashion styles refer-ence the runways. Domestically among its 78 stores, the brand is considered high end at over $100, whereas in the U.S. (where it has two stores) and Europe, it’s priced in that sweet spot of $95 to $395. It currently brings in 33.7 percent of total company revenues.

ANACAPRIFounded in 2008 on the notion of “fl ats at a fair price,” this is the group’s lowest-price off ering. With styles under $60 and an effi cient merchandising concept that encour-ages buying multiples, the domestic brand looks to take a piece of the pie dominated by local players Melissa, Havaianas and Ipanema. It accounts for 7.3 percent of total sales.

ALEXANDRE BIRMANThe high-end brand (croc-trimmed styles start at $750) has refi ned its quality and positioning in top-tier interna-tional retailers, plus two of its own stores in São Paulo. While still only 1 percent of the com-pany’s total revenues, sales doubled between Q2 2015 and the same period this year.

FIEVERThis sneaker and sports sandal concept launched in 2015 with a São Paulo test store. Priced at under $75 a pair, it seeks to capture a young consumer with details such as interchangeable uppers. The idea came from the growing athleisure market and a suggestion from Johanna’s younger sister.

THE PORTFOLIOKey facts about Arezzo & Co.’s five brands.

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Today’s best-selling Juliana

cage sandal

C O V E R S T O R Y

A DAY IN THE LIFEInside Birman’sfrenetic schedule

5:30 a.m.: Wake up

6-8 a.m.: Meet his trainer Armando to practice two of the three Ironman sports a day — running, cycling and swimming. “I have two trainers, one in São Paulo and one in the South of Brazil, where I spend Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Plus [I have]

one in the U.S. It’s how I stay sane and focused.”

8:30 a.m.: After a breakfast of juice and whole-wheat toast with cheese, fruit and granola prepared by housekeepers Edna and Sandra, he hops on his bike to get to the nearby Arezzo & Co. offices. “It clears my head and makes me feel like a young man going to college, not the CEO.”

9 a.m.-1 p.m.: A flurry of meetings. During

collection reviews with his five brand teams, Birman is a stickler for quality: “I always have my hands on the product, inspecting it and seeing how we can improve.”

1-2 p.m.: A lunch of brown rice, an organic protein, vegetables and green salad cooked by either his São Paulo or Campo Bom chefs. The meal is often taken with high-level executives to discuss business strategy.

2-9 p.m.: More meetings

with the investor relations and creative teams. On the day FN spent with him, he also squeezed in store visits and the filming of a staff video.

9 p.m.: Return home for a protein and vegetable dinner.

Midnight: Catch up on company and outside news, go to bed.

Weekends: Spent at the family retreat in Porto Feliz, 100 kilometers from São Paulo.

people took control of it. It’s part of what happens when you live in a country with over 200 million citizens.”

Roberta Ramos, project manager of Abicalca-dos, the Brazilian footwear association, concurs it’s had little impact on the shoe industry, which is the third largest in the world, following China and India. In 2015, Brazil exported 124 million pairs of shoes to the tune of $960.4 million.

“Zika is only affecting us in terms of some people not wanting to travel to Brazil. [It’s not impacting] Brazilian trade,” she said.

She’s hopeful that buzz from the Rio Games might ultimately spread goodwill about Brand Brazil and attract more people to the country, including skilled shoemakers.

While technical programs for footwear in Brazil are strong, Birman doesn’t think there is a shoe school that comes close to Cordwainers in the U.K., from which some of the best designers hail.

“I’m trying to invest in [education] in the south to open up our doors to young people,” he said. “I think now is a time to regain our confidence. Brazilians are by nature very creative.”

While Brazil is grappling with its own chal-lenges, the country is also feeling the impact of an unsettled global economy.

“It’s not a sea of roses,” Birman acknowledged.

“We had a great 10 years between 2002 to 2012 where a lot of people who were in true poverty had [improved their] condition. It was a tailwind. Competition got bigger at that time.”

With the current climate, Birman has been careful to plan for currency fluctuations. Other manufacturers, he said, overly devalued the reals, to the detriment of their margins.

“We’re having a great year so far. My company philosophy is to never look to the outside for guid-ance,” he said. “We don’t make our decisions based on a soft economy. We decide from our own oppor-tunities and instincts. Every year we improve and maintain a constant growth.”

Though Birman recognizes that the Arezzo brand is the company “cash cow,” as he calls

21Birman won FN’s Emerging Talent Award in 2009. C O V E R S T O R Y

it, Schutz is where he sees the most future growth potential — both internationally and as a multicat-egory lifestyle brand. His vision is for it to become the equivalent of the “Zara of shoes.”

Birman is emphasizing the U.S. market heavily, an opportunity he uncovered during his summer pro-gram at Harvard in 2010. Using a hypothetical Schutz expansion as a group case study, he realized there was a white space for high-quality, fast-fashion shoes.

In Brazil, the majority of Schutz styles retail for less than $100, which still makes them expensive for the local consumer. In the U.S., the brand is priced nearly a quarter higher to reflect export duties and a higher cost of living.

By placing Schutz higher than more mainstream competitors such as Aldo and Steve Madden — whom Birman said he admires — Schutz targets what Bir-man calls a “trading down” customer who would traditionally shop for designer brands. With that strategy in mind, Birman opened a New York location on Madison Avenue across from Barneys in 2012.

After a research firm the executive hired produced data suggesting that California is the country’s most important market for sexy heels and boots, Schutz tested and then opened a permanent Beverly Hills location this year.

Together, the stores racked up more than $3.5 million in sales for 2015 and attracted attention from all the right players. The retail expansion also helped them gain traction on the wholesale front.

Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom both picked up the line, which has also generated buzz thanks to celebrity support. Britney Spears and Duchess of Cambridge Catherine Middleton have both donned the brand’s stilettos recently. “You can’t buy that kind of press,” Birman said with pride.

Southern SoleAs he continues to build Schutz into a bigger force, Birman has the advantage of owning his own facto-ries. When FN visited the production headquarters outside the southern capital of Porto Alegre, workers were churning out a new batch of Middleton’s pre-ferred peach Dollie style.

Both the quaint town of Campo Bom (population: 62,000) and the gleaming Arezzo & Co. are immacu-lately neat and tidy, with refuse-free streets, spotless factory halls and perfectly cataloged internal archives calling to mind the region’s Germanic immigrants.

Birman dedicates much of his time to working at the factory, where he spends at least two days a week. “Product is my passion,” he said. To minimize travel time, he has his own plane for the hour-and-45-min-

ute journey from São Paulo.Footwear veteran Cisso Klaus oversees operations

as the group industrial director. He previously spent decades working with Vince Camuto and sees a simi-lar sparkle in Birman’s eyes.

“I introduced them once, years ago, and told Vince that Alex was the next big thing,” Klaus recalled. After chatting with Birman, Camuto concurred, “I believe you — he has it.”

Today, the Alexandre Birman facility is housed in a Bauhaus building that once belonged to Camuto, where white-coated workers painstakingly handcraft the company (and country’s) most expensive shoes. After experimenting with Italian factories, Birman and Klaus worked hard to bring as close to that level of quality and technique as possible to all things AB.

“I’m never quite satisfied, but we’ve improved tre-mendously in the past couple years since we got our own space,” said the discerning Klaus, who, in another passing of the torch, is grooming his son Tiago, 24, to one day handle his current role.

Much of the production team’s focus is on the Al-exandre Birman line’s star shoe, the flattering Clarita. Birman attributed the style’s popularity to its simplic-ity and versatility. “It’s a matter of testing, correcting

and pushing that style,” he said.Bergdorf Goodman VP and DMM

of footwear Nayla Touma witnessed the Clarita’s incredible selling appeal at an event the department store held for Birman in the spring. “We were thrilled with the results,” she said. “The event was extremely well attended by our VIP clients, and they loved the option of customizing their Claritas or buying stock.”

Fifty pairs of the shoes, which start at $595, were sold in a few hours. “Alex is very creative and open

to new ideas,” Touma said. “It’s becoming increasingly important that labels

run a flexible business and react quickly to an ever-changing retail environment, and the Birman team is very well positioned to succeed with this mentality.” The collection was also recently picked up by Net-a-Porter and Matches Fashion.

Though still relatively tiny compared to the rest of the company, at $5 million a year in sales, his name-sake label has raised Birman’s profile exponentially, both at home and internationally. (His glossy parties at Paris Fashion Week have become must-attend events for the fashion crowd.)

It doesn’t hurt that his spouse is equally enamor-ing. A fine art student, voracious reader and front row regular at Chanel, she’s that rare mix of muse and modern eye, constantly pulling references for her hus-band and advising him on the blush of Birman brand stores and boxes. “I was there when they came up with the Clarita,” she said. “The knot, feminine shape, the curves — it’s the DNA of the brand.”

While it’s clear that Birman’s highly sophisticated strategy is crucial, he attributes his winning streak to his wife. “She is my pillar,” he said, citing her dedica-tion as a mother and positive energy as key attributes. “The day I found her, my life completely changed and I started to be successful. I call her my secret weapon.”

HOW AREZZO & CO. WORKS

1. Each brand’s creative team works on mood boards for 14 collections a year. Development is kept confidential between labels to a maintain unique identity among the brands.

2. Teams pull from the company’s extensive footwear library with archival shoes dating back to the 1970s.

3. After culling all inspiration, they visit the Sourcing Room for materials, trims, heels and embellishment options from the area’s local suppliers.

4. Teams present 1,000 prototypes per week to Alexandre, who has final say on what to keep and cut.

5. Selected styles are manufactured by a fleet of factory workers.

“I was there when they came up with the Clarita. The knot, feminine shape, the curves — it’s the DNA of the brand.” Johanna Stein Birman

Alexandre, 40, and Johanna, 24, met when she was trying on boots at an Arezzo store. “She’s young, but we balance each other out,” he said.22

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BrazilGames

Photographed by Fred OtheroFashion Director: Mosha Lundström Halbert

Producer: Marina Felício

Shot on location in São Paulo

Top local fashion and footwear talents prove that bold creativity and expressive beauty are the nation’s best exports.

25

Azaleia’s embossed sneakers in silver JACKET: Printing TOP AND SKIRT: Patricia Vieira

Azaleia’s embossed sneakers in gold SWIMSUIT: Jo De Mer JACKET: Modem at MaresaSKIRT: Patricia Vieira BAG: Elena Ghisellini (on both) EARRINGS: João Sebastião (on both)

00

Suzana Santos’ jute-sole platformsBODYSUIT: Jo De MerPANTS: Vitorino Campos BAG: Serpui EARRINGS: Isabella Blanco

26

Suzana Santos’ platforms with cork and jute detailingSWIMSUIT: Lenny Niemeyer PANTS: Reinaldo Lourenço EARRINGS: Le Diamond BAG: Serpui

Osklen’s double-strap slides DRESS: Osklen EARRINGS: João Sebastião BRACELET: Cine 732 CLUTCH: Isla

27

Cecconello’s strappy block heels TOP: Lolitta PANTS: Gloria Coelho EARRINGS: Gla

28

Arezzo’s strappy sandals TOP: Tanden BELT: Catarina Mina (on both) PANTS: Cris Barros

Paula Ferber’s tri-tone platforms TOP AND SKIRT: Coven BAG: Paula Ferber EARRINGS: Maria Dolores (on both) SCARF: Scarf Me (on both)

PatBo’s floral-print platforms DRESS: Lilly Sarti BAG: Catarina Mina BRACELET: Christopher Alexander

29

Schutz’s wedges (on both) TOP: PatBo DRESS: Lolitta EARRINGS: Amsterdam Sauer

TOP AND PANTS (WORN AS ARM COVERS): PatBo TOP (WORN UNDERNEATH): Lucas MagalhãesSKIRT: Cris Barros MIDDLE RING: Antonio Bernardo LEFT RING: Amsterdam Sauer

30

Zeferino’s ankle- strap sandals DRESS: Gig CoutureBAG: Catarina Mina (on both) EARRINGS: Le Diamond (on both) BRACELET: Maria Dolores SUNGLASSES: Osklen

Sarah Chofakian’s kitten heels TOP: Renata CamposSKIRT: Gig Couture SUNGLASSES: Atitude BRACELETS: Cine 732

Blue Bird’s embroidered loafersDRESS: Modem JACKET: Corporeum BAG: Paula Ferber (on both) EARRINGS: 3 A.M. (on both)

Blue Bird’s embroidered loafers TOP AND BLOUSE: Modem PANTS: Carol Bassi

32

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Marinho got her first footwear job at Melissa Shoes when she won a design contest run by the brand. 35

T H E L I S T

Hand PickedNature’s bounty doesn’t have a thing on this rich, imaginative sandal style by Brazilian designer Lane Marinho. The São Paulo-based artist and shoemaker attached her signature tomato-red rope ties to an earth-toned stiletto for a look that feels fresh off the vine.

S H O EO F T H EW E E K1

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Osklen shows during both the São Paulo and New York fashion weeks.36 T H E L I S T WOMEN’S

Consider him Rio de Janeiro’s reigning Renaissance man. Though best known as the style director behind powerhouse surf-turned-runway brand Osklen — one of Brazil’s most infl uential fashion labels — Oskar Metsavaht also moonlights as an artist, physician and fi lmmaker. “I just co-produced a movie called ‘Soundtrack’ that is going to be launched next February in the U.S. and Brazil,” the 55-year-old said of the fi lm, for which Osklen provided costumes. Another of his passions: Om.Art, a new special-projects studio that recently hosted an exhibition reimagining the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue by various artists. But the designer’s boldest work to date might be the repurposing of Amazonian pirarucu fi sh skins, which are used for Osklen’s latest collection. “The skin was discarded in the trash,” said Metsavaht. “We developed an exclusive, sustainable tanning process, so the skin becomes interesting aesthetically and comfortable to use on our shoes, clothing and accessories. As a consequence, Amazonian fi shers have a better income.” As the Olympics begin, the entrepreneur and sportsman (who practices Gyrotonics, swims and surfs daily in front of his house) shares his guide to all things Rio.

Oskar MetsavahtDesigner, artist, physician: Examining the many sides of Osklen’s accomplished creator.

By Mosha Lundström Halbert

GOOD TASTE

OLYMPIC REFLECTIONS:

“I admire those who dedicate themselves to conquer through dedication and collaboration.”

SIGNATURES OF RIO STYLE:

“Laid-back, where simplicity and sophistication are in balance.”

THE SECRET TO GOOD HEALTH:

“Our fresh fruit juices at any corner of the city. I suggest ordering passion fruit mixed with another tropical fruit. I’m also a big fan of Greenpeople cold-pressed juice.”

LATEST COLLECTION INSPIRATION:

“The Greek gods of Olympia meet the spirit of Rio de Janeiro. I called this collection ‘Golden Spirit.’ ”

BRAZILIAN TUNES ON SHUFFLE:

“ ‘Clube de Esquina’ and ‘Geraes’ by Milton Nascimento.”

GO-TO SHOES:

“My own. I was an orthopedics and sports medicine doctor, which helped me to design shoes for Osklen that are comfortable and not just about aesthetics.”

2

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Schana CenciThough based in Brazil, Cenci, the lead designer for Ipanema, taps into global themes from the jewelry and accessories markets. “Part of my job is to put the inspirations found all over the world together so that the collection tells a cohesive story,” she said. “At the same time, it is the tremendous variety of styles, colors and prints that make us diff erent.”

By Jennie Bell

INSPIRATION POINT3

“The world of glamour brings

liveliness to the Ipanema collection. The main elements of this trend are inspired by heirloom jewelry to create timeless designs.”

WOMEN’S

“Minimalism is a strong fashion trend focused on simplicity, comfort and well-being. The lines are clean and pure, giving products a ‘less is more’ feeling.”

“Tribal inspirations have become an ever-

present trend. For 2017, this theme features geometric and jewelry-inspired elements.”

“The femininityand delicacy of floral details are shown this season through sophisticated flower embellishments and boldly colorful tropical prints.”

Ipanema is owned by Grendene S.A., based in Farroupilha in Rio Grande do Sul.

“The empowerment of women [is emphasized] through light materials and design elements with a classically romantic feel.The heart is an Ipanema icon that especially reflects this theme.”

Juliana BicudoDesigner

“Our brands end up being a refl ection of our pluralistic culture. The exuberance and diversity of our landscapes and our people directly infl uence the aesthetics. With shoes, [it is] the same. There is no denying the infl uence of immigrants who brought the production of handmade shoes to Brazil. The diff erence is that this quality standard increasingly seeks to enhance the unusual, irreverent and joyful features of our culture.”

Local footwear designers weigh in on the

country’s biggest strengths.

By Jennie Bell

39Juliana Bicudo has a background in architecture and urbanism.

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T H E L I S T

Marcela BastoCreative Director, Marcela B.

“Design has grown exponentially in our country, and we see brands like ours showing a new kind of shoe to the Brazilian public: One that has comfort, style and appeal to a diff erent kind of consumer. Also, the idea of a small shoe brand that is local and handmade is starting to appeal to a lot of people.”

Tatiana LoureiroDesigner

“Brazilian brands are committed to quality and comfort. Moreover, being one of the biggest leather producers in the world, we have abundant raw material, so we were able to develop a level of know-how that few countries have. Nowadays, Brazil is also known for its design, with brands being sold in the best shops in the world, competing directly with the most important players in the international market.”

JulianaBicudo

Michelle Lima & Paula ProushanCo-owners, Blue Bird

“Brazil has so much knowledge and craftsmanship regarding shoes. So Brazilian-made footwear is usually handmade, providing the most comfortable experience while using the highest-quality materials available. In general, Brazilians are very creative, so expect a lot of innovation in terms of design.”

Blue Bird

Luiza PereaDesigner

“Our shoes are handcrafted one by one. They are made by specialized artisans who represent tradition, memory and the culture of another era. To reinvent and transform the work of the artisan through design, this is done by giving the product a new signifi cance with a contemporary aspect.”

TatianaLoureiro

Marcela B.

LuizaPerea

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SPRING TREND

T H E L I S T40 On models: Peter Pilotto’s resort ’17 collection features geometric paneled slides.WOMEN’S

Crisscross slide in denim and raffi a by Ancient Greek Sandals

Perforated slide with fl oral detail from Marchesa

Bionda Castana’s denim criss-cross slide with suede fringing

Neutral slide with woven midsole from Kaanas

Newbark’s slide with all-over denim treatment

Designers are taking a measured approach for the season, adding subtle

details and materials to an already minimalist sandal silhouette.

5

Slides Rule

Watercolor-printed brocade slide by Dear Frances

A Cultivated CollabJust in time for the Summer Olympic Games in Rio, Converse debuted a new footwear

collaboration with São Paulo-based fashion brand PatBo. The series of women’s sneakers pays homage to PatBo’s signature floral designs, executed through embroidery, printed leathers and even molded flowers. “I wanted to create a collection that not only embodied my approach to fashion and life, but something that represented the country of Brazil,” said PatBo brand founder Patricia Bonaldi. Styles in the collec-

BUZZ

Latest Launches6

her look [about] the shoe. The experience can be addictive, considering that shoes are always elected as the great female passion.”

Take the OccasionReady-to-wear brand Adrianna Papell, known for its special-occasion wear, is expanding its accessories offering with a collection of handbags. Like the footwear line, the bags are licensed to The Silverstein Co., based in New York, and focus on evening looks. Included in the mix are lace, beaded and embroi-dered clutches that can easily be converted to a shoulder bag. The line, which retails from $50 to $140, is slated for a January/February delivery to department stores and better independents.

tion include the Chuck Taylor All Star Ox, Hi, Lux, Classic Shroud and High Line Ox Shroud, which

are available now at select retailers for $120 to $160.

Global FocusFor its latest advertising campaign,

Brazilian footwear label Tanara has tapped top model Barbara Fialho,

who over the years has been a regular in the Victoria’s Secret shows.

The brand said it had globalization front of mind when selecting its star, citing the fact

that Fialho is “part of a select group of models who often cover the best

magazines and fashion shows in the world. She is the darling of big

labels and international designers.” Tanara, a division of Universo Dakota,

based in Nova Petrópolis in Rio Grande do Sul, offers a range of affordable, on-trend sandals, boots and heels for about $40 to $119. The brand’s marketing director, Denise Lehnen,

explained, “More than just shoes, we sell a lifestyle. We have a slogan, ‘Shoes First,’ which challenges a woman to [make]

Barbara Fialhoin Tanara’s campaign

Conversex PatBo

Adrianna Papell clutches

oomphies.comSEE US AT THE FOLLOWINGFN PLATFORM - Booth #82648The Childrens Great Event Shoe Show

Galet loaferin bottle green

Berry Good PartnersSaks Fifth Avenue is once again joining with Stand Up to Cancer and the Entertainment Industry Foundation for the Key to the Cure campaign. For 2016, actress Halle Berry is serving as the official cam-paign ambassador, supporting the goal of raising money for cancer research and treatment organiza-tions. And designer Christian Louboutin was tapped to create a T-shirt that will be available this fall at all Saks Fifth Avenue stores in the U.S. and Canada and on Saks.com and Saksoff5th.com. All proceeds from the $35 shirt will be donated to Stand Up to Cancer. “I am very glad to work with Saks to support this important cause to help people who are affected by cancer,” said Louboutin in a statement. “It is my mission to help women feel beautiful, and I hope that this T-shirt empowers those who wear it.” The 2016 Key to the Cure campaign begins on Oct. 1.

Halle Berry inLouboutin’s Key to the Cure T-shirtP

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Penny WiseLuxury men’s footwear label Galet, which launched in 2014 with a whimsical line of

slip-ons, has added a modern, minimalist

version of the penny loafer for its fall ’16 collection. The

French brand reimagines the loafer as a lighter and brighter

option for fashion-forward men, incorporating a rubber sole on the classic

silhouette. The transition from formal use to every occasion is a sign of the times, founders Jonathan Horemans and Javier Goggins told FN. “We wanted a more versatile loafer that could pair well with shorts, jeans and even a suit,” Horemans said. “We felt that the loafer market has become stale and saturated in the same silhouettes, brands and colors.” Galet’s sleek treatments include supple nappa leather, a streamlined V strap and an extend-ed stitching channel across the shoe. The shoes will be available in September in black, dark brown, bordeaux and bottle green, retailing for $265 at select stores and online.

Fit your lifestyle.

ara North America · 12 W. 57th Street, suite 1001 · New York · NY 10019 · 877.272.7463

Visit us to see our Spring 2017 Collection

TRU San Francisco

FN PLATFORM Booth #82335

Atlanta Shoe Market Booth #1218 & #1220

Windy City Shoe Show

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T H E L I S T44 COMFORT

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Superfeet FIRST LOOK

TARGETED TO: Active men and women

MADE IN: China

PRICE RANGE: $120 to $140

Insole brand Superfeet is building a line of men’s and women’s lifestyle footwear from the inside out. The series of six sandals and 12 athletic-inspired looks will incorporate the brand’s trademarked Lock-and-Key construction that marries a proprietary Supercork Premium insole (featuring a heel cup and arch support) to the midsole for enhanced fit and function. For added comfort and perfor-mance, uppers are done in leather and breathable mesh, while outsoles feature a tread and flex groove design. The collection will deliver in February to running specialty and fashion retailers. — Barbara Schneider-Levy

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JEFF GREENBERGThe Lloyd’s Shoes owner and NSRA president weighs in on concerns for the retail community.

By Barbara Schneider-Levy

1What are some of the key challengesfor today’s independent storeowners? The internet has aff ected [brick-and-mortar] businesses, as well as a store’s own e-commerce site. The question becomes: How do we fi t into that landscape? How do we [navigate] social media to draw custom-ers into our stores? And how do we continue

to upgrade our products to make themattractive to customers? Also, how do we keep our sales associates current on identi-fying what’s both practical and [trend-right] for our customers? For a small store, it’s about getting people in the door and giving them an exceptional experience. [Similar] products are available in 100 places today; therefore, it’s not just about good customer service. It’s about [building] relationships.

2How is the National Shoe Retailers Association helping?Education. We have two conferences a year where we invite speakers. We also try to help retailers with affi nity programs that include [using] NSRA to get a better bank-card rate and shipping agreements with FedEx. There’s also the networking potential for meeting retailers and sharing ideas. We’re [planning] an executive cabinet

meeting to talk about what the retail landscape will look

like in a few years and how

we [can continue] to make ourselves a use-ful organization.

3In your own comfort stores, how do you distinguish your selection from other retailers?Without a doubt, we try to fi nd a diff erent brand or special SKU. We also work with brands that allow us to build a shoe by changing the material or color. We do[customized] looks with companies in Europe. However, these do not fall into the [core] comfort category. [Instead], they’re fashion companies with an eye on comfort.

4As comfort continues to pervade the mainstream market, what defi nes that category today?We’re not in the orthopedic business — we sell shoes that are beautiful, but also have a practical side. Therefore, I look at a shoe’s components. Some companies from Italy and France use fi ne leathers with wonderful textures. We also look for shoes with leather

linings, ball-of-foot padding and generous toe boxes. If it’s a ballet fl at, I want the sides to come up high enough to cover [foot conditions] such as bunions. We also sell a lot of wedges and heels that are 1-1/2 inches or lower.

5 Traditionally, baby boomers have been the core comfort customer. What are the pros and cons of catering to that population?They’ve [been] holding back and have begun spending money on experiences such as travel and dining rather than products. And while they may make a better-quality pur-chase, they will buy less. There’s less impul-sive and more purposeful buying. All this has had a negative eff ect on my business, but it’s part of the challenge of seeing how we fi t into this new dynamic. To be successful, you have to adjust to the marketplace.

5 QUESTIONS

Lloyd’s Shoesin Carmel, Calif.

8

A Naot sandalfor spring ’17

Fit your lifestyle.

ara North America · 12 W. 57th Street, suite 1001 · New York · NY 10019 · 877.272.7463

Visit us to see our Spring 2017 Collection

TRU San Francisco

FN PLATFORM Booth #82335

Atlanta Shoe Market Booth #1218 & #1220

Windy City Shoe Show

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SPRING TREND

T H E L I S T46 On model: European ready-to-wear label AlishaV showcased a glittery lace-up sandal for spring ’17.CHILDREN’S

Gold metallic ballet fl at with scalloped topline by Nina

Mia’s stacked-heel look featuring decorative cutouts

Rachel’s embossed snake-print sandal with white outsole

Josmo’s ankle-wrap sandal with laser-cut details

Zip-back style with lace-up design by Polo Ralph Lauren

Jute-wrapped wedge detailed with rivets by Sam Edelman

Ghillie-inspired looks will be required wearing for girls this season, as

decorative lacing updates sandals, fl ats and wedges.

9

Strings Attached

Family ties:My brother John and I are the fifth generation of Florsheims, and we’d like to see a sixth. There are currently 12 grandchildren, so we’re hoping someone comes into the business. [However], we believe they need to follow their own passions. Three of

our children worked at the company this summer, and we gave them fun things to do. [Growing up], I worked in the distribution center, while my kids did social media.

Working with my brother: Our skills complement each other. We

decided a long time ago that our relationship as brothers was more important than any business decision. Twenty years ago, we decided if he feels strongly about something, he does what he [feels is right] and [vice versa]. We trust each other.

The hardest part of my job: Making tough decisions that impact people’s lives — whether it’s a hiring or firing decision. We have a fiduciary responsibility to do things to move the business forward, but in doing so, you may make decisions that can hurt people. My brother and I are both cognizant of that.

Where we find new talent: There’s a design school nearby — the Milwaukee Institute of Art and Design, which brings in great talent from all over the country. We’ve cultivated a relationship with the school, hiring interns and a number of graduates. We like to recruit people with fresh perspectives and currently have four designers from MIAD.

Our competitive edge: We don’t have layers of people or bureaucracy in our company. John and I work closely with our division heads and designers. We’re able to react to what’s going on in the market faster than a lot of our competition since they’re busy with a million meetings.

Biggest challenge in the industry: Our retail partners are facing a difficult business environment as a result of consumers’ quickly changing buying patterns. Retailers have made a huge investment in brick-and- mortar, and there isn’t a quick fix to adapt to web-based models. It’s much harder for them to differentiate themselves on the web. The online model becomes more price-driven, which challenges both them and us.

Our five-year plan: We want to expand our portfolio of brands and continue to grow current ones in a sustainable way. We’re also looking [ahead] to see what we can do to better support our customers in a changing [retail] environment. And with more millennials joining the company, we’re studying what we can do to make it a great place to work. For example, a lot of them won’t join companies with set lunch hours. They want to eat when they’re hungry. IL

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The Florsheim brand will celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2017.48 T H E L I S T MEN’S

WELL NOTEDThree things that Tom Florsheim Jr. has learned along the way.

1ACT WISELY

My father’s best advice to me was: Don’t mistake action for accom-plishment. It’s one of the [key] considerations when assessing your own performance and that of others.

2TRUST YOUR TEAM

I believe in Warren Buffett’s strategy of finding great management talent and [giving] them freedom. It’s what John and I try to do.

3MAKE CONNECTIONS

At FN Platform, I can see a huge number of customers in two days. Otherwise, I might only see them every two years.

The Weyco Group CEO talks about preserving a footwear legacy and tapping into a new generation of talent.By Barbara Schneider-Levy

Tom Florsheim Jr.LEADER BOARD

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ho says shoes don’t have a grain of romance?

It was under a starry sky on the shores of a Moroccan beach

that Casablanca 1942 was conceived. The U.K.-based men’s footwear label, named for the classic Hollywood fi lm, grew from founder Gabriela Ligenza pondering: “What would [Humphrey Bogart’s character] Rick wear in this intense and swelter-ing city? Rick, with his elegant coolness, never trying too hard, always memo-rable.”

The result was a line of casual foot-wear made of light and breathable natural raf-fi a, woven by craftsman in Morocco and hand-fi nished in Italy. “Raffi a is a stripped palm fi ber that is naturally dyed, so it doesn’t lose its essential oils. It’s very durable and molds to your feet as opposed to straw, which would break eas-ily,” said Ligenza, who previously developed shoes for Bottega Veneta,

Maison Margiela and Prada. As the story goes, Prada was

interested in the line of raffi a shoes for women, but with a maximum of 4,000 pairs a season, the artisanalseries could never be industrialized. “It takes at least a day to make one pair. So I thought, ‘I might as well de-sign the brand myself,’ ” said Ligenza.

The designer focused on men’s shoes because “men tend to come back for the same style, instead of

looking for something new every six months. But the shoes are es-sentially unisex.”

Casablanca 1942’s signature items

include the Diego espadrille and Bari tasseled loafer, which for spring ’17

will come in hand-woven tribal-print wax canvas. Also for

spring, the brand has added a car shoe with a studded sole and an air-conditioned camoufl age sneaker.

Available in 50 doors worldwide — including Barneys New York and Isetan in Japan — the brand whole-sales for 70 to 120 euros, or $78 to $134 at current exchange.

British men’s brand Casablanca 1942 is capturing attention with its artisan raffi a styles. By Paulina Szmydke

Weave a Spell

W11

A new sneaker for

spring ’17

Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

AUGUST

8/29 8/17 theMICAM Show, FN PLATFORM Show Wrap-Up Distribution: NW Materials Show, theMICAM Show

SEPTEMBER

9/5 8/24 Concepts Milestone, Sneakerhead Distribution: NE Materials Show, Shoe Market of Americas

9/12 8/31 Jimmy Choo Milestone Distribution: Children’s Great Event Shoe Show

9/19 9/7 Must Buys Spring, China, NY Runway Coverage Distribution: Sole Commerce, Children’s Club of NY

OCTOBER

10/3 9/21 DSW Milestone, Best In Kids, Kids Fashion, Milan Runway Coverage

10/10 9/28 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: FDRA Summit (CA)

10/17 10/5 FN 100

10/24 10/12 QVC Presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Distribution: QVC presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Event

OCTOBER

11/7 10/26 Journeys Milestone Distribution: NSRA Leadership Conference

11/14 11/2 Comfort, Rainboots

Mod‘Squad’Cara Delevingne hit the red carpet last week for the London premiere of her film “Suicide Squad” looking rocker-chic. The British model and actress wore a leather ensemble featuring thigh-high Christian Louboutin boots and an Alexander McQueen dress. The towering shoes seem to be a go-to look of hers, as she was spotted in a suede style on multiple occasions throughout the movie’s promo tour.

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO.26. AUGUST 8, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfillment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliver-able, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sub-scription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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