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Issue # 12April 29th 2015

Scentof sunglassesSight meets smell with Oliver Peoples and Byredo

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The arrival of Wood-Skin pg. 5

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The president of Abióptica talks to WMIDO about the situation of the market in South America’s largest country

Brazil prepares for the boom

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With a 15-year story and over 100 members, Abióptica, the Brazilian optical association, unites 90% of the sector’s industries, manufacturers, importers and distributors (retail and specialist). The Association is based in Sao Paulo and its president, Bento Alcoforado, explained to WMIDO that its main objective is to promote and regulate the optical sector.

Can you give us an idea of your association?

Founded in 1997, Abióptica is the most important entity of the Brazilian optical segment; housing among its members domestic manufacturers, importers and distributors of frames, sunglasses, lenses, contact lenses, machinery, equipment and accessories.How is the Brazilian optical industry going?

We are a fast-growing industry and we are preparing for the next ten years, when there should be an "explosion" in demand resulting from the progressively aging population and the implementation of public politics in the vision health field.

Which are the latest economic data?The Brazilian optical market has shown extraordinary

results: +51% in the period 2010-2014 (last five years) and +199% in the period 2006-2014 (last ten years).What are the "hot" topics of the market?

There are at least three key topics. The first is the interest of multinationals in implementing plants in Brazil. The second is the implementation of the Optical Industry Development Plan, which will promote the modernisation of existing plants, making them more productive and competitive. Least but not last the implementation of Certification Program of products.What are the Brazilian consumers looking for in terms of glasses? Do they prefer American or European brands?

According to a market research named "Estudo de Óticas" (study of the optical industry), made in 2014, Brazilian consumers have a preference for eyewear and multisectoral brands, regardless of their origin.

Brazil prepares for the boom

Oscar de la Renta signature eyewear collection with Marchon

Mei: works get underway for the new headquarters

Fashion brand Oscar de la Renta, that currently partners with Allure Eyewear to create a collection of optical frames and sunglasses under the O Oscar label, will also collaborate with Allure parent company, Marchon Eyewear, for the development, distribution and sales of the Oscar de la Renta signature eyewear collection. The first collection of eight sunglass styles will be shown on Oscar’s spring 2016 runway in September. Made by expert craftsmen in Japan and Italy, the collection is designed by Oscar de la Renta’s Peter Copping, and draws inspiration from the house’s ready-to-wear and jewelry lines. Oscar de la Renta will launch two eyewear collections annually and future collections will include a range of optical frames in addition to sunglasses.

The process of expansion of Mei, a company specialising in the manufacture of corrective and sunglass lens production machinery, goes on: the construction of new company headquarters has just gotten underway in Ponte San Pietro (Bergamo), a few kilometres from their current premises. The new base will have a floor area of 10,500 m2, 2,500 of it to serve as office space and 8,000 as production and warehousing facilities. The project for the new headquarters was born of a desire to meet the needs arising from the company’s steady growth in production volumes and number of people employed. At present, Mei provides work for ca 70 people at the Italian site alone, and its annual output comes to ca 250 machines. The new site is expected to open mid 2016.

| Issue #12 | April 29th 2015

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What inspired your brand?The idea stems from a desire to create designer products that are part of a fashion

accessories collection; the aim is to unite these two spirits. The project was conceived, prototyped, engineered, manufactured at our facilities and sold also through our network of standalone retail stores.Who do your collections target?

Our public is very transversal and varied because our products can be customized and have different price scales. They enable the creation of collections that embrace the numerous tastes of a very wide public.A comment about your presence at Mido’s Lab Academy?

We were very satisfied with the huge interest customers showed in our products. The feedback was positive.

Woow launches its first sunglasses

New standard reference for sunglasses in EuropeThe technical standard EN 1836:2005+A1:2007 is expired. From 28th February the only standard reference for sunglasses for general use in Europe will be technical standard ISO 12312-1:2013. Among the novelties introduced by the latter, there is the compulsory test on temporal protection of sunglasses with category 4 filters. Clause 11.2 of the standard requires such sunglasses to have a temporal protection against radiation no lower than that provided in the ocular region of the visual center. Specifically, the components subject to the test can be the frame and/or the lens in the lateral area of the sunglasses, depending on the shape of the latter. One of the factors, which may cause the test to fail, is an insufficient temporal protection, such as that of sunglasses with category 4 filters on a frame with flat front and thin temples.

Woow, the brand with “mini-messages” created by Face à Face, launches its first sunglasses collection: fashionable, graphic and in a range of amazing colors. Super is the code for the messages carried by the sunglasses, messages that end with a surprise. Two concepts for women, Super Duper and Super Chic, one for men, Super Lazy. Super Duper is the most playful with its strong and regular lines. The fine lines of Super Chic pay tribute to the lanky fashionistas drawn by the artist Kiraz, while Super Lazy, with its metal temples and retro rightness, fills with happiness all men whose only ambition is to engage in a very smart rest.

| Issue #12 | April 29th 2015

Oliver Peoples has announced a partnership with Ben Gorham’s Stockholm-based fragrance house, Byredo, to explore the intersection between sight and scent. Inspiration originates from the phenomenon ‘synesthesia,’ which is the joint perception of senses, whereby the stimulation of one sense can involuntarily produce an association with an entirely different one. The conception of the collaboration was achieved through Byredo’s master perfumer perceiving the sights of Los Angeles through different colored lenses, and translating them into various smells, therefore producing a multi-faceted fragrance. This unique effort results in a unisex, acetate sunglass designed by Oliver Peoples, through which the color of the lenses (Indigo, Champagne and Green) correlate with the aroma of the custom-blended fragrance by Byredo. The sunglass is available in Semi Matte Black and Beige Crystal and will be sold in select stores the beginning of May 2015, separately, as well as in a bespoke box set with fragrance with a custom-made case and pouch.

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The intersection between sight and scent

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| Issue #12 | April 29th 2015

Bret Easton Ellis for Persol

The seventh edition of Autofocus has begun. This Vanni Occhiali international contest is for 18- to 35-year-old artists and designers from European Union countries and is supported by the Association for the Circuit of the Young Italian Artists (GAI). The exhibition dedicated to Ruben Brulat of France, the winner of the 2014 edition, will be open from May 5 through June 6 at the Autofocus area in the Vanni showroom in Turin. The prize for the 2015 edition is 1,500 euro for the creation of an exhibition project and 500 euro for the production of a performance; both are open to any type of language and influence. The exhibition project and the performance must be suitable for the Vanni showroom in Turin and “The Others” fair (www.theothersfair.com) also in Turin from November 5 through 8, 2015. Entries must be received by September 10, 2015.

I. Jeffrey O. Gustafson. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

Turn over

Classical, in the unforgettable version with teardrop-shaped lenses, loved by the younger generations of every era, or revisited with a more modern twist with round or slightly elongated lenses: for 2015 the frames “aviator style” are in metal with brass plating, or in the ultra-modern and hi-tech version in super-thin nylon with arms in pure 100% titanium. The lenses are mirrored or graduated, in a bicolor version, or in the brand new grey- purple, red, orange, lilac and blue shades. Put simply, the aviator style never goes out of fashion, it is adored by both men and women, and is incredibly cool and sexy. The sign of a strong and independent personality with a free spirit.

Riccardo Braccialini President AimpesRoberto Briccola President MipelSue Cockayne Professional Services Director for Europe CooperVisionMyles Hustler Head of Marketing in Europe for the Clariti contact lens brands CooperVisionPaul Maxwell National Sales Manager for the UK and Ireland CooperVisionJohn Nides Vice President of Sales Ogi EyewearAmandine Perrier Country Head Manager Iberia Kering Eyewear

Eyewear trends 2015: aviator style

“Autofocus 7”, the dual award by Vanni OcchialiPhotographed by Tom Craig in the hills of Los Angeles,

American author Bret Easton Ellis is the Muse of the new campaign for the Persol Typewriter Edition capsule collection. Sitting at his desk or on a terrace, lying on the sofa or in bed, the legendary author is working on his typewriter facing the different steps of the creative process: attacking the blank pages, stepping back in his effort, or finishing the last chapter. Bret Easton Ellis’ quest for inspiration becomes a movie, directed by Sherif Hanza for Persol. The four pieces capsule Persol Typewriter Edition features two sunglasses and two optical frames. The newly-designed metallic bridges are embellished with subtle etching, whilst rivets emulate the keys of the old typewriter.

Jf Rey

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A new, revolutionary project is entering the world of design: Wood-Skin. Patented by the company of the same name, the material combines the rigidity of wood with the flexibility of fabric. It can be molded into different shapes without altering its structural and aesthetical DNA and thereby creates complex organic shapes. Easily adaptable to any structure, it can be applied in architecture (the gigantic double curved wall in Dubai’s Reign Restaurant is by Wood-Skin) and design (during Milan Design Week the company presented the “Programmable Future” furnishings collection in collaboration with MIT Self-Assembly Lab and Flash Assembly, an easily assembled dining table and bookcase by the Wood-Skin creative team).

New life for cork

Natural, lightweight, recyclable and renewable. Used in a variety of areas ranging from fashion to design, finishes, collectables, food packaging, footwear and wall and floor insulation, just to mention a few, cork is being given “a second life” thanks to new applications. Many international manufacturing companies have decided to recoup bottle corks by means of a fairly simple process. Thanks to this it will be possible to use it in the design world for the construction of highly sustainable products. We wonder if cork will have a second life also in the world of eyewear.

Femininity and wittiness are the common denominators of Chiara Altruda’s Bricconcella Couture, a brand of dresses, skirts, trousers, kaftans and swimwear. As Altruda, who created the company and also designs all the collections, told WMido – “Bricconcella Couture is the result of my passion for summer, sea and sun... so its strength is color and lightness: a mix of patterns that «refresh» as soon as you wear them. It’s precisely for this reason that I want to create a line of eyewear associated with my brand. In fact I’m already preparing a project with models that can be transformed... stay tuned!”.

Russian fashion goes to Monaco

In the Principality of Monaco 2015 is Russia year and to celebrate it a selection of stylists from that country will be present at the Mode Monte Carlo Fashion Week from July 6 through 8. For three days, the majestic rooms of the Oceanographic Museum in Monaco will be transformed into a temple of international fashion and style. The program includes a series of fashion shows with previews of the new Spring/Summer 2016 collections divided into “Universe Beachwear”, “Universe Jeune Talents” and “Universe Couture”. Over the same period there will be interesting conferences at which important experts in the sector and all designers will be able to set up temporary showrooms for business meetings.

Design, fashion & lifestyle | Issue #12 | April 29th 2015

Wood like skin

Copyright @ Musée Océanographique de Monaco

Bricconcella Couture to add eyewear

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