Boyle Street Apartments › assets › images › HO3004 › HO… · Inter-Action Hobbies Page 2 Rev 2020-1 Boyle Street Apartments in HO Scale (1:87) The Boyle Street Apartments

HO Scale1:87

Kit: HO-3004© 2015Inter-Ac�on Hobbieswww.interactionhobbies.com

WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small and sharp partsNot for young children

High quality HO scale structure:Ÿ

4.2” wide by 8.4” long by 3.3” highAssembly & pain�ng requiredŸ

Paint, glue, and hobby tools required for assemblyŸ

are not included

Boyle Street Apartments

HobbiesINTER-ACTION

Rail and Tie Craftsman Kits

HO-3004: Boyle Street Apartments Kit Assembly Instructions

Inter-Action Hobbies

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Boyle Street Apartments in HO Scale (1:87)

The Boyle Street Apartments are modeled after a 1920’s apartment building found in the climates of the northern United States and Canada. This building is showing its age, but newer windows have been installed to keep the building alive through the generations. At home in a trackside neighborhood, or even as a barracks in an army or cadet camp.

The prototype building is still standing today and can be seen for detailing in GoogleEarth at the following link. GoogleEarth “Boyle Street, Edmonton, Alberta”.

This building would be at home in any urban North American railroad setting from the 1930’s through to present day.

Supplied Kit Components:

• 4 sheets of laser cut and engraved stabilized Resin Impregnated Board (RIB) for crisp, high resolution detail.

• 1 sheet of laser cut clear window glazing

• 1 sheet of pre-cut basswood bracing • Styrene strip

• Styrene rod

• Detailed instructions

Suggested Tools and Supplies:

• X-Acto type knife with fresh blades (#11 style is best)

• Tweezers

• Fine sandpaper (400+ Grit)

• Masking tape or clear adhesive tape • Probond, Elmers white glue or Scotch Quick-Dry Adhesive (I like the Scotch adhesive as it dries with

little residue and has a great fine applicator tip)

• CA glue for immediate bond of small hard to place parts

• Acrylic or Enamel Paint

We hope you enjoy making this kit as much as we did providing it to you. If you have any questions, please contact us at [email protected].

The following instructions and photos will provide the basics for assembling this detailed kit. We have tried to make the steps as straight forward as possible, but please note that you might want to change the order of assembly to suite your own technique and modifications that you might make along the way. As usual it is best to familiarize yourself with all the parts and instructions before you start on this craftsman level kit.

NOTE: If you would like to view these instructions in full color, please feel free to download a full color copy

at and click on the link www.interactionhobbies.comfor "Instructions" near the top of the page.



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1 This kit come with 4 sheets of laser cut 0.018” thick RIB,

laser cut clear window material, and a basswood sheet

of stiffeners and doublers along with the building base.

You will also find some clear glazing for the windows.

2 Start by cleaning out any contaminates and remaining

dust that may be in the cracks of the etched stone, brick

and engraved details.

This is done by using a stiff bristle brush and gently

dusting the nooks and crannies. Don’t be too aggressive

as the material can be brittle and fine detail may be

broken or removed. Avoid touching very fine detail like

window muntins etc.

3 Painting the parts while still attached to the sheet is an

easy way of getting quick and easy coverage for your

model and to minimize warping. Any acrylic, enamel or

oil based paint works well.

Make sure you consider which side is out or in so you can

color the inside walls where required.

For a whitewash/stucco effect on the outer walls, stipple

the paint on with a stiff brush that is fairly dry in a

number of coats.



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Note that some of the photos show the N Scale model

parts. The arrangement of the parts on the sheets differs

slightly than the photos.

Paint the brick chimney by using a fine sponge or stiff

brush and stipple a medium dry brush onto the brick

(using acrylic paint), taking care to not get too much paint

into the mortar lines to fill them up.

Using thick tube oil paint, spread into the mortar joints

and immediately wipe away the surface with a clean

tissue. Rub lightly to clean the top of the brick, leaving

the mortar joint full of paint.

Gently paint the window muntins on the inner wall as

shown.

The inner walls are the ones with the stonework on

them. They are fine and delicate so be gentle.

Glue the inner walls to the outer walls keeping the

alignment of each panel centered.

4



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Cut the upper windows free from the support sheet.

5

Each window glazing fits in to the space flush with the

inner wall.

Install glazing sheets on backside of wall panels.

6

This gives you a different reflection angle to show off the

upper and lower panes of the windows.



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Assemble the front entry way as shown. The floor is the

longer piece.

7

Make sure you glue glazing to the back of each of the

inner and outer doors as shown. Also paint the muntins

trim in a contrasting color.

.

This little detail is like the original building and shows a

mismatch of renovations done through the years.

Using the bracing part sheet to the left and the bracing

map included in your model kit, locate and arrange the

stiffeners. Once you are happy with the fit and accuracy,

glue the stiffeners in place. Make sure you closely follow

the diagram and overlay the parts directly onto the sheet

to assure proper alignment when assembling your

model. Spending a bit more time at this step will assure a

square and straight model.

8

Paint one of the S1 braces in your trim color as it will be seen through the outside front wall.



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Glue the walls and main floor together assuring that

things are kept square to each other. You may have to

slightly sand the edges after gluing and then do a bit of

stucco touchup on the corners.

9

It is a good time to install the window trim on all of the

windows. Note the one double window frame for the

lower front right window.

Install the room dividers .The entryway should fit against

the inside face of the outside wall and the floor of the

entryway should protrude slightly from the front wall.

10

Flex the upper floor to get it to pass the bracing and

glue it to the wall dividers.

Install the S6 roof support bracing as shown and glue to

the inner walls at each end and to the slots in the upper

floor dividers.

11

TIP: Adding black view block material (foam, or

cardboard) helps the realism of your building and will

make the window glass reflect more.

S6

Window Trim

(30 locations)



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Take the two roof halves and place them on a flat surface

upside down. Make sure you have the taper on the

shingles going the right way. Place them together and

tape the backside.

12

Glue the roof to the building top and add the edge trim

as shown above.

Weighting down the roof panels for a good glue job!

You can choose a black paper for a tar paper roof. I

chose to use some 400 grit sandpaper cut into strips to

represent rolled roofing.

Brush on the matt medium or white glue and overlap

each strip slightly. Starting at the lowest edge of the roof

panel and working your way up.



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For a ridge cap cut to size and then crease on the back

side.

Final coat of matt medium, a few patches added and

then lightly dry brushed with a light grey.

Install the glazing on the back entryway walls.

13

Tar paper roof of the entryway is painted. Install the

door opened or closed. Maybe loose on the hinges?

Install the glazing on the back entryway walls.

14

Window and

door frames



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Glue the attic vent (12) above the upper door frame on

the back wall and same position on the front wall.

Assemble the back entryway as shown.

Glue the stair runner and upper landing to the back

exterior wall. I found it easiest to glue the landing in

the slot first. The bottom tread will stick out past the

end of the building slightly.

Glue the other stair runner under the landing as seen

here and then glue on the stair treads. Time consuming,

but looks great when done.

Fit the railings and trim slightly if necessary and glue

the railing to the treads and landing. Fit, cut and paint

the styrene 6x6 landing supports and glue them to the

sides of the entryway.

15

12

Glue this edge to

the back of panel



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.

.

Sand or file a 45 degree bevel to the back side of each of the 4 chimney parts. Using light tack tape, line up each edge of

the chimney parts, apply glue to the bevels and wrap up to square the chimney and let dry. Remove the tape.

Glue the chimney top to the assembled chimney and then to

the roof and note the angle of the chimney base to assure

that it is installed vertical to the ground.

You can also add a small piece of tubing as shown to the top

of the chimney and then “mortar” it in place with some matt

grey paint.

Taper

No taper



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Glue the chimney to the roof and note the angle of the

chimney base to assure that it is installed vertical to the

ground.

You can also add a small piece of tubing as shown to the top

of the chimney and then “mortar” it in place with some matt

grey paint.

Stucco will show water and rust so consider that when

weathering.

You can install eave downspouts as located using the

supplied strips.

Styrene

downspout

Documents

Boyle Street Apartments › assets › images › HO3004 › HO… · Inter-Action Hobbies Page 2 Rev 2020-1 Boyle Street Apartments in HO Scale (1:87) The Boyle Street Apartments