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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Nick Botham, Katerina Canyon, Nicolas Combremont, Christophe Cozien, Jonathan Dickinson, Kennet Fischer Föh, Erik Futtrup, Basia Jóźwiak, Helene Karson, Leslye Korvola, Tim McCready, Marie-Louise Miginiac, Patricia O’Donnell, Karin Ratschbacher, Naomi Rose, Natalia Snezhnaya, Caroline Swain, Jiri Varadinek, Michael von Külmer
AUTHOR THANKS Simon RichmondMany thanks to my fellow authors and Brana at HQ; Sasha & Andrey for a lovely place to stay, the ever knowledgeable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Maxim Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Art Museum.
Marc BennettsThanks to Tanya and Masha for a warm wel-come when I arrived home from this research
trip. Thanks also to Brana Vladisavljevic and Simon Richmond for steering me through the new system. Thanks also to everyone who helped me out during my travels.
Greg BloomThanks to Dima for the hospitality in Shere-gesh. Thanks to Rita for the Altai advice and for hooking me up with several contacts. Thanks to Vladimir, my crazy cab driver, for the col-ourful language and Chuysky Trakt anecdotes. Thanks to Russian Railways for being so damn punctual. Thanks to Transaero for the upgrade to business class. Thanks to kalyan. Thanks to the peeps of Western Siberia for being good souls.
Marc Di DucaHuge dyakuyu goes to Kyiv parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after sons Taras and Kirill while I was in Siberia. Big thanks to Alex in Chita, Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Andriy and Anya in Slyudyanka, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Igor, Lena and Georgy in Tayshet, the Maryasovs of Severobaikalsk, Anatoliy and Alex in Krasnoyarsk, Aldar and everyone at the Tuvan Cultural Centre, Evgeniy, Anay-Khaak, Sean and Enrique in Kyzyl, Real Russia in London for their hassle-free visa service and of course my wife Tanya, for suffering my long absences from our home in Sandwich, Kent.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Behind the Scenes
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES673
Anthony HaywoodThanks to those who helped out with local knowledge, mostly anonymously, along the way, but especially to Katya Y. in Kazan and Katya P. in Perm. In Yekaterinburg I’d like to thank Konstantin and Olga Brylyakov for sharing their knowledge (and delicious cream cake!), and Luba Suslyakova for her expert opinions and good company over dinner. Thanks also to the staff at LP, especially Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavljevic.
Anna KaminskiI would like to thank everyone who’d helped me along the way, not least Brana, Simon for all the advice and encouragement, Tamara and Mark, my predecessors, and the rest of the Russia team. An ogromnoye spasibo to friends old and new, particularly Dmitrii Babenko and Svetlana Tsybendorzhieva in Murmansk, as well as Aleksanr, Ksenia, Alek-sei, Andrei, Vadim and Natalia, Igor and Anna in Kirovsk – the chapter wouldn’t have been the same without your help! I’m also much obliged to my parents for fuelling my wan-derlust with their own tales of the Russian north…and for everything else.
Tom MastersHuge thanks to my many friends in St Pe-tersburg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with contacts and introductions. Thanks to my old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Patterson, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their amazing children for making me feel at home during my stay, and also for organising my accommodation. Thanks also to such reliable comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogole-pov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha & Andrey, Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work on this title.
Leonid RagozinMany thanks to my wife Masha Makeeva for bearing with my absences and for accompa-nying me on the Yaroslavl section of this trip. Huge thanks to my LP colleague Branislava Vladisavljevic for her patience and helping with numerous issues that were coming up in the course of research. It was also great to catch up with fellow authors – Simon Richmond, Anthony Haywood and Mara Vorhees – in Moscow. Good to see you again!
Tamara ShewardHuge thanks go out to Dasha, Vasily, Danil, Olga and Katerina, the brilliant tourist info folks in Kaliningrad and Veliky Novgorod, the eternally-helpful Anton and (the oth-er!) Tamara, the countless babushki who helped with (and spoiled) bubba Masha on the road, and to the incomparably amazing Baba Ritik. All the love in the universe and beyond to Dusan and Masha. Durak adven-ture forever!
Regis St LouisThanks go to Anna Kaminski and Greg Bloom for helpful tips on the Far East; Martha Madsen for her hospitality and many tips in Yelizovo; Irina and Sasha for a warm welcome in Esso; Yelena for loads of info at Omega Plus in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk; Anastasia for Vladivostok insight; Sasha for the Russky Island excursion; Yegor Makarov for Sakha lore, and Aita, Illary, Elena and expats for all the help in Yakutsk. Hugs to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve for a warm homecoming.
Mara VorheesСамое болшое спасибо to my friend and co-author, Leonid Ragozin, who is a pleasure to work with and fontanka of information about his hometown. Thanks to Tim O’Brien (of course), Marc Bennetts, Simon Rich-mond and Andrei Muchnik for lots of ideas. And finally, what a treat to spend time (not enough) with two dear friends from my past: `Nasha Pasha’ Yesin and Lyonya Klyuev. As always, thanks to my little guys S&V, for chal-lenging me to see familiar destinations from new perspectives, and to Daddio, for, well, everything.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Moscow metro map: © Art. Lebedev StudioIllustrations p58-9 and p156-7 by Javier ZarracinaCover photograph: Transfiguration Cathedral, Kizhi, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Johanna Huber / 4Corners ©
674
THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Russia guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Marc Bennetts, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony Haywood, Anna Kaminski, Tom Mas-ters, Leonid Ragozin, Tamara Sheward, Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. The same authors worked on the previ-ous edition. Mark Elliott and Robert Reid worked on the 5th edition. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editor Anna TylerDestination Editor Branislava VladisavljevicProduct Editor Elizabeth JonesRegional Senior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaBook Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Michael Garrett, James Leversha
Assisting Book Designer Virginia MorenoCover Research Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Kate Chapman, Penny Cordner, Pete Cruttenden, Brendan Dempsey, Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Justin Flynn, Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Jouve India, Kate James, Andi Jones, Wayne Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, John Taufa, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome, Juan Winata
675©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1905 Revolution 5771917 Bolshevik
Revolution 5791918 Civil War 580‑11999 Moscow bombings 5942012 Bolotnaya Sq protest
5632014 Winter Olympics 361,
362, 369, 562‑3, 635‑6
AAbakan 453‑6Abramtsevo 122accommodation 638‑40
costs 97, 638internet resources 639language 664‑5
activities 30‑2, 41‑6, see also individual activities, individual locations
addresses 644Adler 368‑9Aginskoe 510‑11Agura Valley 367air travel 649, 653
language 668airlines 653airports 649Ak‑Dovurak 465‑6Akhmatova, Anna 170‑1, 612Aktash 446‑7Akunin, Boris 614alcoholic drinks 626‑7Alexander I 55, 573‑4Alexander II 575, 576Alibek Valley 380Alla 497All‑Russian Exhibition
Centre 78Altai 433‑49, 434‑5
border zones 438hiking 442
stone idols 449visa registration 439
Altai peoples 29, 433Altai Republic 17Amanauz Valley 380amber 215, 265, 268, 275Amber Mine (Yantarny) 275Amber Room (Catherine
Palace) 215Amur tigers 528, 634amusement parks 188, 368,
see also theme parksAnavgay 515Andreev, Leonid 238Andropov, Yury 586‑7Angara Dam 483animals 632‑4, see also
individual animalsanimism 605Annenkova, Pauline 507Annunciation Cathedral
(Moscow) 65‑6Anuy River 17Anzer Island 290‑1Apatity 297‑8Aptekarsky Ogorod 78aquariums
Nerpinarium 489Oceanarium (Murmansk)
303Oceanarium (Voronezh)
235Primorsky Aquarium
527Arbat 82‑9, 100‑1, 104‑5,
108, 116, 84‑5archaeological museums
Archaeological Museum (Moscow) 70‑1
Archaeology Museum (Khabarovsk) 519
Historical‑Architectural & Archaeological Museum 223
Theatre of Time 253archaeological sites 464Archangel Cathedral 61, 65
architectural museumsAngara Village 474Architecture & Design
History Museum (Yekaterinburg) 399
Architecture‑Ethnography Museum (Khokhlovka) 396
Bolgar State Historical‑ Architectural Museum Reserve 330
Druzhba Historical Park 545
Esso Ethnographic Museum 559
Ethnographic Museum (Ulan‑Ude) 499
Kizhi Museum Reserve 284‑5
Kolomenskoe Museum Reserve 83
Malye Karely Wooden Architecture Museum 297
Museum of Ulyanovsk Architecture 334
Museum of Wooden Architecture (Istra) 124
Museum of Wooden Architecture (Kostroma) 137
Museum of Wooden Architecture & Peasant Life (Suzdal) 134
Nevyansk History & Architecture Museum 403
Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha Architecture Museum 404
Taltsy Museum of Architecture & Ethnography 490
Tikhvin Historical Memorial & Architectural Museum 225
architecture 617‑19books 622
Arctic cruises & tours 281, 303, 307
area codes 21Arkhangelsk 292‑6, 294Arkhangelskoe 122‑3Arkhyz 382‑3Armand, Inessa 68Armoury (Moscow) 66‑7Arshan 494‑5art galleries, see also art
museumsChildren’s Art Gallery 336Fine Arts Museum
(Arkhangelsk) 293Gallereya Viktoria 335Garage Museum of
Contemporary Art 92Kaliningrad Art Gallery
267Kronid Gogolev Museum
286Landscape Museum 136Loft Project ETAGI 175Lumiere Brothers
Photography Centre 91Manege Exhibition
Centre 70Minsalim Folk Art 416‑17Pushkinskaya 10 175Red October 89, 91Rizzordi Art Foundation
187Street Art Museum 184Strelka Institute 91Tsereteli Gallery 86‑7Vinzavod 78
art museums, see also art galleries
AA Borisov Museum 293Academy of Arts Museum
180Art Department 310Art Muzeon & Krymskaya
Naberezhnaya 91Dogadin Art Gallery 345EK Plotnikova House‑
Museum 293
676
IND
EX A‑B
art museums continuedErarta Museum of
Contemporary Art 179‑80
Fabergé Museum 169Far Eastern Art Museum
519Fine Art Museum
(Tyumen) 412Fine Arts Gallery
(Chelyabinsk) 408Fine Arts Museum
(Murmansk) 303Fine Arts Museum
(Omsk) 418Fine Arts Museum
(Petrozavodsk) 281Fine Arts Museum
(Veliky Novgorod) 253Gallery of European &
American Art of the 19th & 20th Centuries 85
General Staff Museum 164
Hermitage Kazan 327Hermitage Storage
Facility 183‑4Hermitage Vyborg 220IN Kramskoy Regional
Fine Arts Museum 234‑5
Kartinnaya Gallery 256Konenkov Sculpture
Museum 241Marble Palace 165, 168Mikhailovsky Castle 169Moscow Museum of
Modern Art (MMOMA) 73
Multimedia Art Museum 87
Museum of Contemporary Art PERMM 392
Museum of Decorative & Applied Arts 171
Museum of Decorative & Folk Art 77
Museum of Oriental Art 79
Museum of Private Collections 83, 85
Museum of the Russian Icon 93
Museum of Visual Arts 230
National Art Museum (Yakutsk) 538‑9
National Centre of Contemporary Art 321
Nesterov Art Gallery 404Nevyansk Icon Museum
400New Tretyakov Gallery
91‑2Nizhegorodsky State Art
Museum 321Old Art Exhibition 142Perm State Art Gallery
392Primorsky Picture
Gallery 525Pskov National Museum
of History, Architecture & Art 259
Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 82‑3
Radishchev Museum 340Repin Museum 339‑40Rublyov Museum of
Early Russian Culture & Art 93
Russian Museum 164, 165
Sakhalin Art Museum 547
Samara Art Museum 335Smolensk Art Gallery
243State Art Museum
(Novosibirsk) 421State Hermitage
Museum 12, 156‑7, 160, 161, 183‑4, 12, 156‑7
State Tretyakov Gallery Main Branch 89, 92
Stieglitz Museum 77Sukachev Regional Art
Museum 482Surikov Art Museum 466Tomsk Art Museum 425Tretyakov Gallery 89, 92Tsereteli Studio‑Museum
81‑2Tver Art Gallery 246‑7Western European Art
Collection 321Yaroslavl Art Museum
142Yekaterinburg Museum
of Fine Arts 398‑9art nouveau 618arts 27, 28, 606‑22 see
also architecture, art galleries, art museums, cinema, dance, literature, music, theatre, visual art
Artybash 442‑3Arzhaan‑Su 446
Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 60‑1
Astrakhan 345‑8, 346ATMs 23, 644Atsagatsky Datsan 506aurora borealis 300Avacha Bay 553Aya 440‑1AYaM (Amuro‑Yakutskaya
Magistral) Highway 535Azau 388
BBaikal‑Amur Mainline
(BAM) 39, 473‑7, 534‑8history 473, 474
Baikalskoe 477Balkar peoples 380ballet 606‑7
Moscow 109‑10St Petersburg 202‑3
BAM (Baikal‑Amur Mainline) 39, 473‑7, 534‑8
history 473, 474bani (baths) 11, 599, see
also mineral‑water spas & springs, spas
Azimut 139Banya Land 370Bersenevskiye Bany 94‑5British Banya 370Degtyarniye Baths 185Helio Spa 134Krasnopresnkiye
Bany 95Lermontov Baths 374Mytninskiye Bani 185Narzan Baths 376Sanduny Baths 11, 94Yerrmelov Baths 374
bargaining 23Barguzin 497Barguzin Valley 497Barnaul 433‑7, 436Bashkir peoples 601Bashkortostan, eastern
405Bashkortostan, Republic
of 404‑9basketball 114Basmanny 77‑9, 99, 103‑4,
106‑7, 115, 74‑5bathrooms 647
train journeys 40Battle of Borodino 55,
124, 125Baturino 496Bay Dagh 464beer 627
Belarus, travel to/from 650Bichiktu‑Boom 446bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 493, 633‑4bird‑watching 493Birobidzhan 516‑17Biryusinsk 473bison 240Biysk 437‑8Black Sea Coast 12, 361‑72Blagoveshchensk 514‑16Blok, Alexander 612boat cruises 539, see also
boat toursRostov‑on‑Don 357Sochi 363
boat toursArkhangelsk 293Blagoveshchensk 514Kaliningrad 269Kenozero National
Park 317Khabarovsk 520Komsomolsk‑na‑Amure
537Lake Teletskoe 442Moscow 96Rostov‑Veliky 145‑6St Petersburg 187to North Pole 307Volga Delta 347, 349Volgograd 343
boat travel 653‑5, 656, see also boat cruises, boat tours
language 668boating 41‑2Boguchan Island 477Bolgar 330Bolshie Koty 491‑2Bolshoi Solovetsky Island
289‑90Bolshoi Theatre 17, 109‑10
tickets 110Bolshoy Zayatsky Island
290Bonaparte, Napoleon 55books 562, 564
architecture 622arts 607environmental 632, 633food 625, 626, 629history 567, 569, 571,
572, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 579, 581, 582, 584, 586, 587, 590, 592, 595, 596
outdoor activities 41train journeys 37
border crossings 649‑50
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
67 7IN
DEX B
‑C border zones 646Borisoglebsky 146Borodino 124‑5Bratsk 473‑4Bratsk Dam 474breweries 335, see also
beerBrezhnev, Leonid 68, 586‑7Brodsky, Josef 171, 613brown bears 633, 634Buddhism 605, see also
templesBulavin, Kondraty 359Bulgakov, Mikhail 610, 612Bulus 545Bunin, Ivan 233, 238Buotama River 541Buryat peoples 498Buryatiya 497‑511bus travel 655, 656‑7
language 668to/from Moscow 118‑19to/from St Petersburg
207business hours 644‑5business visas 26Bykov, Dmitry 614Bystrinsky Nature Park
559‑60, 635, 28
Ccable cars 323
Mt Elbrus 385Pyatigorsk 373Vladivostok Funicular
527camping 638canoeing 41‑2, 323‑4, 541,
see also raftingCape Khoboy 492Cape Shaman 493car travel 655‑6, 668
Chuysky Trakt 444‑5language 668rental 655‑6to/from Moscow 119Trans‑Siberian
Highway 46Caspian flamingo 349castles, see palacescathedrals 29, 604
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Novosibirsk) 421
Annunciation Cathedral (Kazan) 328
Annunciation Cathedral (Moscow) 65‑6
Annunciation Cathedral (Voronezh) 234
Annunciation Cathedral (Yaroslavl) 142
Archangel Cathedral 61, 65
Ascension Cathedral (Totma) 315
Ascension Cathedral (Yelets) 233
Assumption Cathedral (Astrakhan) 345
Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 60‑1
Assumption Cathedral (Omsk) 418
Assumption Cathedral (Pechory) 262
Assumption Cathedral (Pereslavl‑Zalessky) 148
Assumption Cathedral (Rostov‑Veliky) 145
Assumption Cathedral (Smolensk) 241
Assumption Cathedral (Tula) 227, 229
Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 128
Bogoyavlensky Cathedral 483
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Kaliningrad) 268
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Moscow) 85‑6
Cathedral of Christ Transfiguration (Perm) 392
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Sign (Veliky Novgorod) 253
Cathedral of St Dmitry 129
Cathedral of St Sophia 251
Cathedral of the Assumption (Sergiev Posad) 149
Cathedral of the Resurrection 124
Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Yaroslavl) 141
Cathedral of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour (St Petersburg) 171
Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Pereslavl‑ Zalessky) 147
Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Pskov) 259
Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Suzdal) 133, 14
Chita Cathedral 508Epiphany Cathedral
(Moscow) 71Epiphany Cathedral
(Tomsk) 425Intercession Cathedral
(Krasnoyarsk) 467Intercession Cathedral
(Tobolsk) 415Kaliningrad Cathedral
265Kazan Cathedral
(Moscow) 69Kazan Cathedral (St
Petersburg) 165Nativity of the Virgin
Cathedral 131, 357Naval Cathedral 219Nikolsky Cathedral 177Odigitria Cathedral 499Pavlovsk Cathedral 218Resurrection Cathedral
(Staraya Russa) 256Resurrection Cathedral
(Starocherkassk) 359Resurrection Cathedral
(Vologda) 311Sampsonievsky
Cathedral 184Saviour’s Cathedral
(Minusinsk) 456Smolensk Cathedral 89Smolny Cathedral 170SS Peter & Paul
Cathedral (Kazan) 329SS Peter & Paul
Cathedral (Vyborg) 220
St Basil’s Cathedral 67‑8, 10
St Isaac’s Cathedral 176‑7
St Michael’s Cathedral (Chernyakhovsk) 272
St Nicholas Cathedral (Veliky Novgorod) 252
St Sofia Cathedral (Tobolsk) 415
St Sophia’s Cathedral (Vologda) 309
Transfiguration Cathedral (Moscow) 77
Transfiguration Cathedral (Novokuznetsk) 430
Transfiguration Cathedral (Solovetsky Islands) 289
Transfiguration Cathedral (Tikhvin) 225
Transfiguration Cathedral (Vologda) 311
Trinity Cathedral (Kostroma) 137
Trinity Cathedral (Kyakhta) 506
Trinity Cathedral (Moscow) 94
Trinity Cathedral (Pskov) 258
Trinity Cathedral (Sergiev Posad) 149
Vladimirsky Cathedral 175
Voskresensky Cathedral (Nerchinsk) 510
Znamensky Cathedral 413
Catherine II (the Great) 572‑3
Caucasian peoples 359, 602
Caucasus Mountains, see Central Caucasus
Cave, Nick 325caves
Kungur Ice Cave 396Pechory 262Vorontsovskaya Cave
364caviar 623cell phones 20, 646‑7cemeteries
Barguzin Cemetery 497British Naval Cemetery
303Novodevichy
Cemetery 89Rogozhskoe
Cemetery 97Tula Necropolis 229‑30
Central Caucasus 378‑88, 379
Centre for Tuvan Culture 462
Chadan 465Chaliapin, Fyodor 377Chechen peoples 56, 355,
387, 592, 594, 602Chechnya 56, 355, 387,
592, 594Chechnya crisis 56Cheget Polyana 387Chekhov, Anton 81, 123,
427, 546, 547, 610Chelyabinsk 408‑9Chelyabinsk Region 404‑9Chemal 443‑6
678
IND
EX C
Chernyakhovsk 272Chess City 351Chike‑Taman Pass 444children, travel with 640
food 630Moscow 95St Petersburg 188
China, travel to/from 650Chita 507‑10Christianity, Russian 603‑4Chukchi peoples 602Chukotka Autonomous
Region 539churches 29, 604, 617, 620
Annunciation Church (Kargopol) 316
Annunciation Church (Solovetsky Islands) 289
Annunciation Gate‑Church 133
Archangel Michael Church (Torzhok) 248
Archangel Michael log church (Chita) 507‑8
Archangel Mikhail Church (Tobolsk) 417
Archangel Mikhail Church (Tyumen) 413
Ascension Church (Kolomenskoe) 83
Ascension Church (Malye Karely) 297
Ascension Church (Solovetsky Islands) 290
Ascension Church (Yekaterinburg) 397
Assumption Church (Biysk) 437
Assumption Church (Solovetsky Islands) 289
Assumption Church (Yeniseysk) 471
Assumption Refectory Church 133
Chapel‑at‑the‑Well 149Chapel of St Nicholas
(Novosibirsk) 421Chapel of the Archangel
Michael 285Chapel of the Revered
Martyr Grand Princess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna 397
Chasovnya Chapel 466‑7Chesme Church 185
Church of All Saints Polkovaya 225
Church of Dimitry Solun 223
Church of Elijah the Prophet 141
Church of John the Baptist (Staraya Ladoga) 223
Church of Our Lady of the Don 358
Church of SS Konstantin & Yelena 124
Church of St Dmitry on the Blood 146
Church of St Inokent 477Church of St John the
Baptist (St Petersburg) 183
Church of St Nicholas (Stary Izborsk) 261
Church of St Peter the Metropolitan 147
Church of the Deposition of the Robe 61
Church of the Entry into Jerusalem 315
Church of the Grand Ascension 79
Church of the Holy Fathers of the Seven Ecumenical Councils 94
Church of the Holy Martyr Mina 256
Church of the Intercession (Kizhi) 285
Church of the Intercession on the Nerl 131
Church of the Nativity of Christ 315
Church of the Nativity of Our Lady 252
Church of the Nativity of the Virgin in Putinki 75
Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus 285
Church of the Saviour on the Waters 303
Church of the Saviour‑over‑the‑ Galleries 145
Church of the Sign 142Church of the Small
Ascension 79Church of the
Transfiguration (Moscow) 86
Church of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour on Ilyina Street 252‑3
Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki 72
Church of the White Trinity 247
Church on the Spilled Blood 164
Church upon the Blood 397
Emperor Constantine Church 133
Epiphany Church of Zapskovie 259
Forty Martyrs’ Church 147
Gate‑Church of St John the Divine 145
Gate‑Church of the Resurrection 145
Great Count’s Church 233
Holy Spirit Church 245Intercession Church
(Moscow) 77, 97Intercession Church
(Pechory) 262Ioanno Bogoslavski
Chapel 444Iverskaya Chapel 425John the Baptist Church
(Kargopol) 316John the Baptist Church
at Tolchkovo 141‑2Kazansky Church 483Miracle Worker’s Chapel
297Orthodox Church
(Severobaikalsk) 475Peter & Paul Church
(Shushenskoe) 457Peter & Paul Church
(Smolensk) 243Peter & Paul Church
(Tyumen) 412Pokrovsky Church 433Raising of the Cross
Church 482Refectory Church of St
Sergei 149Resurrection Church
(Krasnoyarsk) 466Resurrection Church
(Suzdal) 134Resurrection Church
(Voronezh) 235Resurrection Church
(Suzdal) 133Rozhdenstva
Bogooroditsy Church 316
Saviour Church ‘Not Made by Hand’ 122
Saviour’s Church (Irkutsk) 483
Spassky Church 502St George’s Church
(Malye Karely) 297St George’s Church
(Staraya Ladoga) 223St Inokent Chapel 472St Nicholas Church
(Aginskoe) 510‑11St Nicholas Church
(Listvyanka) 489St Nicholas Church
(Pechory) 262St Nicholas Church
(Suzdal) 133St Simeon Stylite
Gate‑Church 94Svyato‑Makarevsky
Church 439Transfiguration Church
(Kizhi) 15, 285, 15Transfiguration Church
(Suzdal) 134Transfiguration
Gate‑Church (Moscow) 88‑9
Troitsky Church 412Uspenskaya Church 506Veronica’s Veil Chapel
285Voskresenskaya Church
(Kyakhta) 506Voznesenskaya Church
426Voznesensko
Georgievskiy Church 412
Vvedenskaya Church 234, 316
Zachary & Elisabeth Church 417
Chuvash peoples 601Chuysky Trakt 444‑5Chyornaya Recha 457cinema 614‑16, see also
filmsCircassian Massacre 356Circassian peoples 355,
356, 602Circumbaikal Railway 494circuses 610
Moscow 111‑12St Petersburg 204
classical music 607‑8Moscow 109St Petersburg 202‑3
climate 20, 30‑2closed military zones
(ZATOs) 306clubs 106coffee 628Cold War 584‑8consulates 641‑2
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
679IN
DEX C
‑G continental divide 403convents, see also
cathedrals, churches, monasteries
Intercession Convent (Suzdal) 133‑4
Novodevichy Convent 88‑9
St Alexey of Akatov Women’s Monastery 235
cosmonaut training 46Cosmonautics Museum 78cosmonauts 46, 78, 586Cossack peoples 320,
358, 571crafts 27credit cards 644crime 645‑6Crimea crisis 563‑4Crimean War 574‑5cross‑country skiing 45‑6Curonian Spit, see
Kurshskaya Kosacustoms regulations 640‑1cycling 42, 43, 668
Moscow 96Samara 336St Petersburg 185Tolyatti 338
Cyrillic alphabet 665
Ddachas 598Dagestan 387dance 606‑7Dancing Forest 277Decembrists 456, 502,
507‑8, 574Diaghilev, Sergei 392disabilities, travellers
with 648discount cards 640discrimination 646diving 42‑3
Arctic Circle 299Yantarny 275
Divnogorsk 472dog‑sledding 489Dombay 378‑82
border permits 382Dostoevsky, Fyodor 175,
255‑6, 611drinks 626‑8, 628‑30, see
also alcoholic drinks, beer, coffee, kefir, konyak, kvas, sok, water, wine
etiquette 23language 665‑7train journeys 40
driving, see car traveldriving licences 655dunes 276‑7DVDs 640Dzerzhinsky, Felix 68
EEaster (Pashka) 31, 187Eastern Baikal 496‑7Eastern Siberia 50,
450‑511, 451accommodation 450climate 450food 450highlights 451history 452‑3planning 450travel seasons 450
education system 599‑600Eisenstein, Sergei 615Elanka 545electricity 641Elekmonar 446Elista 349‑52elk 633embassies 641‑2emergencies 21
language 667Engels 342environmental issues
634‑6gas mining 634‑5Khimki Forest 636Lake Baikal 479oil mining 634‑5Stolby Nature Reserve
636Epchik Pass 380Erarta Museum of
Contemporary Art 179‑80Erzhey 464Esso 515, 559‑60Estonia, travel to/from 650ethnic groups
Altai peoples 29, 433Balkar peoples 380Bashkir peoples 601Buryat peoples 498Caucasian peoples
359, 602Chechen peoples 56,
355, 387, 592, 594, 602
Chukchi peoples 602Chuvash peoples 601Circassian peoples 355,
356, 602Cossack peoples 320,
358, 571
Even peoples 515, 559Evenki peoples 559, 602Finno‑Ugric peoples
601‑2Itelmeni peoples 515,
559Karachay peoples 380Koryak peoples 515,
559, 602Nanai peoples 515, 538Nenet peoples 601Sakha peoples 515Sami peoples 301Tatar peoples 600‑1Tuvan peoples 458‑9,
462etiquette 23, 40, 598
bani 599drinking 23, 627food 23photography 645train travel 40visiting churches 603
Even peoples 515, 559Evenki peoples 559, 602events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 21
FFabergé Museum 169February Revolution 578‑9ferry travel 652
to/from St Petersburg 207
festivals & events 30‑2City Day (Moscow) 96City Day (St Petersburg)
188December Nights
Festival 96Dzhangariada 351Easter (Paskha) 31, 187Golden Mask Festival 96Kamwa Festival 32, 393Mariinsky Ballet Festival
187Mir Sibiri 456Moscow Biennale of
Contemporary Art 96Moscow International
Film Festival 96music festivals 609Perm White Nights 393Russian Navy Day 270Sabantuy 329Sadko Festival 31Stars of the White Nights
Festival (St Petersburg) 188
Victory Day (St Petersburg) 187‑8
Winter Festival 96Ysyakh 541‑2
films 562, 610, 612, 614‑16Finland, travel to/from
208, 650Finno‑Ugric peoples 601‑2fishing 43‑4, 299, 486, 541Flyonovo 245folk art 621‑2folk music 110, 607folk‑dancing 607food 623‑6, 628‑30
caviar 623etiquette 23language 665‑7omul 486train journeys 40Tuvan food 459
football (soccer) 114forts 566, see also
kremlinsAnninskie Fortifications
221Fort No. 7 (Vladivostok)
528Kuznetsk Fortress 430Peter & Paul Fortress 181Smolensk Fortress 243Staraya Ladoga Fortress
223Stary Izborsk Fortress
261Fringilla Ornithological
Station 277Frunze, Mikhail 68
GGagarin, Yuri 340Gaivoron 528Ganina Yama 403gas mining 634‑5Gatchina 218‑19gay travellers 643
Moscow 108St Petersburg 200
geography 631‑4geology 631‑4Georgian cuisine 625German–Soviet Pact 583geysers 554‑5giardia lamblia 152GIBDD (traffic police) 656Gift to Young Housewives,
A 628glaciers 386glasnost 587Glinka, Mikhail 607
680
IND
EX G‑H
Godunov, Boris 149, 569Gogol, Nikolai 79, 611Golden Horde 55, 320, 567Golden Horn Bay 18, 18Golden Ring 47, 126‑50,
127accommodation 126climate 126food 126highlights 127itineraries 129planning 126‑7travel seasons 126
Goncharov, Ivan 333Gorbachev, Mikhail 56,
587‑8Gorki Leninskie 123Gorky, Maxim 80, 612Gorky Park (Moscow) 92Gorno‑Altaisk 438‑40Gorodets 326Gorodishchenskoye Lake
261Goryachinsk 496Grand Palace (Peterhof)
210‑11Great Baikal Trail 16, 483Gremyachinsk 496Grigorevka 457gulags 582‑3
Khabarovsk gulag 519Magadan 539Perm 394Solovetsky 288, 290
GUM 114
Hhealth 152, 643
ticks 412water 627
helicopter tours 44heliskiing 364, 555Hermitage Storage Facility
183‑4Hermitage, the, see
Hermitage Storage Facility, State Hermitage Museum
hiking 44‑5, see also hiking trails
Altai 442Central Caucasus
379‑80Khibiny Mountains 299Mt Avachinskaya 558
Mt Belukha 448‑9Mt Cheget 386Mt Elbrus 385Mt Fisht 368Mt Koryakskaya 558safety 44Sochi National Park 367
hiking trails 27Frolikha Adventure
Coastline Trail 476Great Baikal Trail 16, 483
historic buildings & sites, see also kremlins
Admiralty (St Petersburg) 169‑70
Armoury (Moscow) 66‑7Borodino Field 125Chamber of Facets 252Golden Gate 129Gora Sekirnaya 290Gostiny Dvor 292‑3Ivan the Great Bell
Tower 61Kutafya Tower 57Lubyanka Prison 77Monplaisir 212New Holland 178Rastorguev‑Kharitonov
Mansion 397Saviour Gate Tower 68Senate Building 60Synod Printing House 71Syuyumbike Tower 328Tretyakovsky Proezd 71Trinity Gate Tower 57Tverskaya ploshchad 75
Historic Centre (St Petersburg) 160‑1, 164‑70, 189‑91, 194‑5, 199‑200, 166‑7
history 565‑96dissolution of Soviet
Republic 587‑94expansion of Russian
empire 570‑4formation of Russia
565‑9Putin in power 595‑6Russian Revolution 574‑9Soviet Russia 580‑90WWI 578WWII 583‑4
hitching 656holidays 645horse riding 45
Arkhyz 382Aya 440Samara 336Stary Izborsk 261Teberda 380‑1
hostels 638‑9Hotel Metropol 79Hotel Moskva 102hotels 639house & biographical
museumsAltes Haus 268‑9Anna Akhmatova
Museum at the Fountain House 170‑1
AS Pushkin Museum 248Ayvan Darzhiev Museum
506Burganov House 86Butin Palace Museum
510Chaliapin Dacha Literary
Museum 377Chambers of the
Romanov Boyars 72Chekhov House‑
Museum 81Chekhov Museum 123Countess Panina’s
House 326Dostoevsky Cultural
Centre 256Dostoevsky House
Museum (Staraya Russa) 255
Dostoevsky Museum (St Petersburg) 175
Fortified House of Kondraty Bulavin 359
Gagarin Museum 340Gogol House 79Goncharov Museum 333Herman Brachert
House‑Museum 273House‑Museum of 19th‑
and 20th‑Century History 413
House Museum of Yelets Lace 233
Ivan Bunin Museum (Oryol) 238
Ivan Bunin Museum (Yelets) 233
Khrennikov Museum 233Kirov Museum 181Kornilov Mansion 417Kuskov Museum 315Kuzminsky House 232Lenin Museum (Gorki
Leninskie) 123Lenin Museum
(Minusinsk) 456Leonid Andreev House
Museum 238Lermentov Museum 373Levitan House Museum
136
Metenkov House‑ Museum of Photography 400
Mikhailovskoe 258Museum of Sakhalin
Island: A Book by AP Chekhov 547
Nabokov Museum 177Nikolai Leskov House
Museum 238NK Rerich Museum
419‑20Old English Court 72Pasternak House‑
Museum 123Penates 190Peter the Great House
311Pushkin House‑
Museum 87Pushkin Flat‑Museum
170Pushkin Literary
Museum 87Rerikh Museum 86Rimsky‑Korsakov
House‑Museum 225Rukavishnikov Mansion
321Ryabushinsky
Mansion 80Sakharov Centre 93Sakharov Museum 323Sergei Diaghilev Museum
392Spasskoe‑Lutovinovo
239Stalin’s Dacha 367Surikov Museum‑Estate
466Tchaikovsky House‑
Museum 123Timofey Granovsky
House‑Museum 238Tolstoy Estate‑Museum
88Tolstoy House 232Tolstoy Literary
Museum 87Trubetskoy House‑
Museum 481Turgenev Museum 238Vasnetsov House‑
Museum 75Velimir Khlebnikov
Museum 345Victor Astafiev
House‑Museum 472Volkonsky House‑
Museum 479‑81housing 598
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
681IN
DEX I‑L
Iibn‑Fadlan, Ahmed 326ice diving 42‑3ice fishing 486ice hockey 114icons 619‑20immigration 649Ingushetia 387insurance 643International Scientific
Centre of Khöömei 462internet access 643internet resources 21,
564, 639Inya 445Iodro 445Irkutsk 479‑88, 480‑1
accommodation 484‑5drinking & nightlife 487entertainment 487food 485‑6sights 479‑83tours 483‑4travel to/from 488travel within 488
Islam 604, see also mosquesIstra 124Itelmeni peoples 515, 559itineraries 33‑6Ivan III (the Great) 55, 568Ivan IV (the Terrible) 55,
312, 327, 569Ivolga 505Ivolginsk Datsan 505Izmaylovksy Market 19, 116
JJewish culture 517, 605Jewish Museum & Centre
of Tolerance 73Judaism 605, see also
synagogues
KKaliningrad 265‑73, 266‑7
accommodation 269‑70activities 269drinking & nightlife 271‑2entertainment 272festivals & events 269food 270‑1sights 265, 267‑9statues 269travel to/from 272‑3travel within 273
Kaliningrad Region 48, 263‑77, 264
accommodation 263climate 263
food 263highlights 264planning 263travel seasons 263
Kalmykia, Republic of 349‑52
Kamchatka 12, 550‑60, 551, 13
environment 633‑4planning 554tours 553‑5
Kamenny Island 183Kamwa Festival 32, 393Kant Island 265Karachay peoples 380Karelia, Republic of 280‑7Kargopol 315‑17kayaking, see canoeing,
raftingKazakhstan, travel to/
from 650Kazan 326‑33, 328
accommodation 329‑31drinking & nightlife 331‑2festivals & events 329food 331shopping 332sights 327‑9travel to/from 332travel within 333
kefir 628Kem 287‑8Khaan, Chinggis 567Khabarovsk 518‑24, 518‑19Khakassia Republic 453‑7,
454Khamovniki 82‑9, 100‑1,
104‑5, 116, 84‑5Khan, Gengis, see Khaan,
ChinggisKhandagayty 465Kharms, Daniil 612Khokhlovka 396Kholmsk 550khöömei (throat‑singing)
459Khrushchev, Nikita 585Khuzhir 484, 492‑3Kirov, Sergei 181Kirovsk 298‑300Kirovsky Islands 182‑3Kislovodsk 376‑8Kitay Gorod 70‑2, 97, 102‑3,
106, 114Kizhi 15, 284‑5Kizhi Museum Reserve
284‑5Klin 123Kola Peninsula 297‑309
Kolomenskoe Museum Reserve 83
Kolomna 175‑8, 192‑3, 197‑8, 201, 176
Komsomolsk‑na‑Amure 535‑8, 536
Konevets Island 224konyak (brandy) 626Koryak peoples 515, 559,
602Kosh‑Agach 447‑8Kostroma 136‑41, 138Krasnaya Polyana 12,
369‑72, 12Krasnodar 359‑60Krasnoyarsk 466‑72, 468Krasnoyarsk Region 466‑72kremlins
Astrakhan 345Kazan 327‑8Moscow 57‑61, 65‑7, 102‑
3, 114, 70, 58‑9Nizhny Novgorod 321Pereslavl‑Zalessky 147Pskov 258Rostov‑Veliky 145Suzdal 131Tobolsk 415‑16Tula 227, 229Veliky Novgorod 13,
250‑2, 13Vologda 309‑10
Krestovsky Island 183Kronshtadt 219‑20Krymov, Dmitry 610Kuban Steppe 356‑60Kulada 446Kulikovo Pole 229Kungur 396Kungur Ice Cave 396Kunstkamera 178Kupchegen 444Kuril Islands 557Kurshskaya Kosa 276‑7Kursk 235Kurumkan 497Kuskov, Ivan 315kvas (nonalcoholic beer)
628Kyakhta 506‑7Kyren 496Kyzyl 460‑3, 461Kyzyl‑Mazhalyk 465
Llabyrinths 290Lada cars 338Lake Baikal 16, 478‑97,
478, 7, 16
environmental issues 479
tours 483‑4lakes 631, 632
Akkem Lake 448Cheder Salt Lake 463Donguzorunkel Lake 386Khövsgöl Lake 496Lake Baikal 16, 478‑97,
478, 7, 16Lake Dus Khol 464Lake Kanozero 299Lake Khadyn 464Lake Kotokel 496Lake Kurilskoe 555Lake Ladoga 286‑7Lake Lekshmo 317Lake Seliger 248‑9Lake Seydozero 302Lake Slyudyanskoe 477Lake Teletskoe 442Lake Tore Khol 464Lake Turgoyak 406Lake Zyuratkul 407Ozero Karakel 380Ozero Tumanlykel 380Shavlinsky Lakes 446‑7
language 23, 664‑71Latvia, travel to/from 650legal matters 643‑4, 645
GIBDD (traffic police) 656
Lekshmozero 317lemmings 632Lena Pillars (Lenskie
Stolby) 541Lenin, Vladimir Ilych 68,
69, 123, 154‑5, 413, 456, 576, 579, 581
Leningrad, see St Petersburg
Leningrad Blockade 154Leningrad Region 220‑5Lermontov, Mikhail 373,
374lesbian travellers 643
Moscow 108St Petersburg 200
libraries 329Listvyanka 488‑91literature 28‑9, 611‑14Liteyny 170‑4, 191‑2, 195‑6,
200‑1, 172‑3Lithuania, travel to/from
650live music
Moscow 112, 114St Petersburg 202
local transport 656‑7language 668
682
IND
EX L‑M
Lovozero 301‑2Lubyanka Prison 77Lyadiny 317
MMagadan 539Maksimikha 496Maly Yaloman 444‑5Malye Karely 297Mandelstam, Osip 612Manzherok 441Mariinsky Theatre 17, 175‑6,
202, 17markets
Birobidzhan farmers market 517
Central Market (Nalchik) 384
Dzherzhinskogo Market 428
Izmaylovsky Market 19, 116
Komsomolsk‑na‑Amure Market 537
Udelnaya Fair 204Vladivostok Market 530
marshrutky travel 655, 656‑7
Marxism 576Mayakovsky, Vladimir 430measures 640medical services
Moscow 117St Petersburg 206
Medvedev, Dmitry 596Melikhovo 123memorials, see
monuments & memorials
Meshchansky 77‑9, 103‑4, 106‑7, 74‑5
metro travel 657language 668Moscow 112‑13, 121, 62‑3St Petersburg 209,
158‑9Mikhail I, Tsar 137Mikhailovskoe 258military museums
Arms Museum 229Artillery Museum 181Artillery Yard
(Astrakhan) 345Bunker‑42 Cold War
Museum 92‑3
Bunker Museum 267Central Museum of the
Armed Forces 76‑7Exposition of Military
Equipment 88Hall of Military Glory 253Military Technology
Museum (Yekaterinburg) 400
Museum of Military Hardware 359
Museum of the Defence & Blockade of Leningrad 171
Museum of the Great Patriotic War 88
Museum of the Northern Fleet 303
Panorama Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad 342
S‑56 Submarine 525Stalin’s Bunker (Samara)
335SV Nikolai 467Urals Military History
Museum 400Vladivostok Fortress
Museum 525Voroshilov Battery 527War History Museum
(Barnaul) 433Young Defenders of the
Motherland Museum 235
Mineralnye Vody 372‑3mineral‑water spas &
springs 372‑8Aushiger Hot Spring 383Dzelinda Spa 475Goudzhekit Spa 475Khakusy Turbaza 475Narzan Gallery 376Proval 374Slovenian Springs 261Zhemchug 496
Minusinsk 456mobile phones 20, 646‑7monasteries 29, 603,
see also cathedrals, churches, convents
Alexander Nevsky Monastery 174‑5
Annunciation Monastery (Nizhny Novgorod) 323
Assumption Monastery (Sviyazhsk) 333
Bogolyubsky Monastery 131
Borisoglebsky Monastery 248
Danilov Monastery 93‑4Donskoy Monastery 94Goritsky Monastery 148John the Baptist
Monastery 333Kirillov‑Belozersky
Monastery 312Konavets Monastery 224Mirozhsky Monastery
259Monastery of Saviour &
St Jacob 145Monastery of St Ipaty
137Monastery of the
Epiphany 71Monastery of the Holy
Martyrs 403Monastery of the
Transfiguration of the Saviour (Yaroslavl) 141
New Jerusalem Monastery 124
Nikolsky Monastery 223Novospassky Monastery
77‑8Pechorsky Monastery
323Pechory Monastery 262Saviour Borodino
Monastery 125Saviour Monastery of St
Euthymius 131, 133Saviour‑Sumorin
Monastery 315Solovetsky
Transfiguration Monastery 19, 289, 290, 19
Spaso‑Preobrazhensky Monastery 471
Spaso‑Prilutsky Monastery 311
St George’s Monastery 252
Tikhvin Monastery of the Mother of God 224‑5
Transfiguration Monastery (Valaam) 286, 287
Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 149
Trinity Monastery (Smolensk) 241
Trinity Monastery (Tyumen) 412
Upper St Peter Monastery 73
Zaikonospassky Monastery 71
Znamensky Monastery (Irkutsk) 481
Znamensky Monastery (Yelets) 233
Zverin Monastery 253Monastyrsky Island 496Monchegorsk 300‑1Mondy 496money 20, 23, 644Mongolia, travel to/from
651monuments & memorials
Alyosha 302Centre of Asia
Monument 460Civil War Monument 356continental divide
(Pervouralsk) 403Lenin Head 498Lenin’s Mausoleum 68Mamaev Kurgan 342Maritime Victory Park
183Memorial to Victims of
Political Repression 363
Millennium of Russia Monument 251‑2
Monument to the Founders of Yekaterinburg 398
Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad 185
Musa Dzhalil Monument 327
Park Pobedy 88Return Memorial 351Romanov Death Site 397Statue of Yury Andropov
281Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier 68Tomsk WWII Memorial
426Victory Memorial (Kursk)
235War Victory Monument
(Arkhangelsk) 293Yaroslavl Millenium
Monument 142moose 140Moscow 47, 52‑125, 54,
64‑5, 70, 74, 80, 84, 90
accommodation 52, 97‑102
activities 94‑5children, travel with 95climate 52drinking & nightlife
106‑9emergencies 117entertainment 109‑12, 114
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
683IN
DEX M
festivals & events 96food 52gay & lesbian travellers
108highlights 54history 55‑7information 116‑18internet access 117internet resources
53, 118itineraries 60media 117medical services 117metro tour 112‑13planning information
52‑3postal services 117safety 116‑17shopping 114‑16sights 57‑92tours 53, 96travel seasons 52travel to/from 118‑21travel within 53, 121‑2,
62‑3Moscow Planetarium 81Moscow State
University 93mosques 29
Khazret Osman Mosque 447
Kul Sharif Mosque 328Nurullah Mosque 329Soltanov Mosque 329St Petersburg Mosque
181motorcycle travel 655‑6mountaineering 44‑5mountains
Ak‑Khayyrakan 464Khibiny Mountains 299Mt Aktru 446‑7Mt Avachinskaya 558Mt Baida 448Mt Belukha 448‑9Mt Bolshoe Sedlo 376Mt Bolshoy Akhun 367Mt Cheget 385‑6Mt Dombay‑Ulgen 380Mt Elbrus 378, 384‑8Mt Fisht 368Mt Iiktu 447Mt Khayyrakan 465Mt Koryakskaya 558Mt Maashey 446‑7Mt Maloe Sedlo 376Mt Maly Dzhinal 376Mt Mashuk 373Mt Mishennaya 552
Mt Mongun‑Tayga 465Mt Mutnovskaya 555Mt Sarlyk 444Mt Semyonovbashi 380Mt Sinyukha 441Mt Sofrudzhu 380Mt Sulakhat 380Mt Syyn‑Churee 465Mt Vilyuchinsky 553Mt Zelyonaya 431Munku‑Sardyk 496Pik Cherskogo 493
multiculturalism 29Murmansk 302‑9, 304
accommodations 305‑6drinking & nightlife 307entertainment 307‑8festivals & events 303food 306‑7shopping 308sights 302‑3tours 303travel to/from 308travel within 308‑9
museums, see also archeological museums, architectural museums, art museums, house & biographical museums, military museums, regional museums
Alabin Museum 335All‑Russian Museum of
History and Ethnography 248
Altai Arts, Literature & Culture Museum 433
Altaysky Tsentr 444Amber Museum 268Antique Automobile
Museum 528Antiquities Exhibition
Centre 229AV Anokhin National
Museum of Altai 439Baikal Mineral Museum
493Baikal Museum 489BAM Museum
(Severobaikalsk) 474BAM Museum (Tynda)
534‑5Banya Museum 496Bashkortostan National
Museum 404Bereginya 316Birobidzhan Jewish
History Museum 517Biryusinsk Museum 473Borodino Museum 124‑5
Botik Museum 148Castle Prison Museum
415‑16Centre of Musical
Antiquities 253Chambers 129Children’s Museum 326City History Museum
(Irkutsk) 482Contemporary History
Museum 80Cosmonautics
Museum 78Decembrist Museum
(Chita) 507‑8Decembrist Museum
(Minusinsk) 456Decembrist Museum
(Novoselenginsk) 502Deputy’s Palace Museum
416Diamond Fund
Exhibition 67Experimentanium 77Fortress Museum 376‑7Friedland Gate 265Geological Museum
(Monchegorsk) 300Geological Museum
(Ulan‑Ude) 499Glinka Museum of
Musical Culture 76Goldwork Embroidery
Museum and Factory 248
Gubernsky Museum 417Gulag History Museum
73History & Arts Museum
(Kaliningrad) 267History Museum
(Smolensk) 241History Museum
(Vladimir) 129History of Tomsk
Museum 425History of Yaroslavl
Museum 143In the World of Fairytales
Museum 241Izborsk Museum 261Jewish Museum &
Centre of Tolerance 73Khakassia National
Museum 453Khangalov Museum of
Buryat History 498Khomus Museum 541Khuzhir Museum 492King’s Gate 267Kukushka.ru 148Kunstkamera 178
Kurshskaya Kosa National Park Museum 277
Kyakhta Museum 506Lace Museum 310Literature Museum 466Mammoth Museum
and Archaeology & Ethnography Museum 539, 541
Martyanov Museum 456Metal‑Working Museum
230Mineralogy Museum 298Moscow Museum 87‑8Mousetrap Museum 274Museum Estate of
Simbirsk Urban Life in the Late 19th and Early 20th Centuries 333
Museum of City Life (Irkutsk) 482
Museum of Fire‑Fighting in Simbirsk‑Ulyanovsk 333‑4
Museum of Oppression (Kyzyl) 460
Museum of Perm Prehistory 392
Museum of Political History 181
Museum of Railway Technology 184
Museum of Russian Superstitions 277
Museum of Russian Vodka 241
Museum of Samovars 326
Museum of the Nizhny Novgorod Diocese 323
Museum of the Volga‑Don Canal 343
Museum of the World Ocean 265, 267
Museum of Zoology 180‑1Museum Reserve Old
Sarepta 342‑3Music & Time 141Nanai Museum 538National Museum (Kyzyl)
460National Museum of the
Republic of Kalmykia 350
National Museum of the Republic of Tartarstan 328‑9
Nature Museum (Ulan‑Ude) 499
New Jerusalem Museum 124
684
IND
EX M‑P
museums continuedNorthern Naval Museum
292North‑Russian
Exploration Museum 298
Novgorod State United Museum 251
Oppression Museum 425Polytechnical Museum 72Pryanik Museum 230Pskov National Museum
of History, Architecture & Art 259
Puppet House 281Railway Museum
(Abakan) 453Railway Museum
(Yekaterinburg) 400Rumyantsev Mansion
178Russian Museum 164‑5Sami History & Culture
Museum 301Seafarers’ Museum 315Shushenskoe
Ethnographic Museum 457
Slyudyanka Museum 493Smolensk Flax Museum
241Sochi Town History
Museum 363Soviet Arcade Games
Museum 78Soviet Lifestyle Museum
329Special Treasury 211‑12State History Museum
68‑9State Museum of
Theatre & Music 171Suzdal History Museum
131Tartarstan Museum of
Natural History 327Technical Museum 338Toy Museum (Segiev
Posad) 149Treasury of the Sakha
Republic 541Tsybikov Museum 510Tula Samovar Museum
229Ulan‑Ude City Museum
499Ural Geological Museum
399
Urals Mineralogical Museum 399
USSR Museum 421Vitoslavlitsy 252Vladimir Vysotsky Alpine
Museum 386War of 1812 Museum 69World of Forgotten
Things 311Writ Chamber 258‑9Zelenogradsk Cat
Museum 276music 564, 607‑10
festivals 609folk music 110, 607khöömei (throat‑singing)
458‑9Mussa‑Achitara Ridge
379‑80Myshkin 146
NNabokov, Vladimir 177Nakhodka 528Nalchik 383‑4Nanai peoples 515, 538Napoleon Bonaparte 55national parks & nature
reserves 635Astrakhan Biosphere
Reserve 349Bystrinsky Nature Park
559‑60, 635, 28Kenozero National
Park 317Kronotsky Biosphere
State Reserve 554, 635
Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 276, 635
Losiny Ostrov National Park 78
Nalychevo Nature Park 558
Orlovskoye Polesye National Park 240
Pribaikalsky National Park 492
Prielbruse National Park 384, 635
Samara Bend National Park 339, 635
Sikhote‑Alin Nature Reserve 528, 635
Sochi National Park 367Stolby Nature Reserve
466, 635, 636Taganay National Park
408, 635Teberdinsky State
Natural Biosphere Reserve 378‑9, 635
Tunka National Park 496Ubsunur Basin
Biosphere Reserve 464Varota Sartikpayev
Gorge 443‑4Vorobyovy Gory Nature
Preserve 93Zabaikalsky National
Park 497Zyuratkul National Park
407‑8, 635Nazgir Pass 380Nenet peoples 601Nerchinsk 510nerpa seals 497Neryungri 535Nevsky, Aleksandr 153,
567‑8Nevsky Prospekt 164Nevyansk 403‑4Nicholas I 574‑5Nicholas II 397, 576‑7Nikolsky Cathedral 177Nizhneangarsk 477Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha 404Nizhny Novgorod 320‑6,
322Nizhny Novgorod Region
320‑6Norshteyn, Yury 616North Pole tours 307Northern European Russia
48, 278‑317, 279Arctic Circle 278churches 278climate 278highlights 279planning 278travel seasons 278
Northern lights 300Norway, travel to/from 651Novodevichy Convent 88‑9Novokuznetsk 430‑1Novoselenginsk 502Novosibirsk 419‑24, 420
wooden houses 422Novospassky Monastery
77‑8Nuclear Icebeaker Lenin
302
OOctober Revolution 579oil mining 634‑5Oka Region 496Okudzhava, Bulat 87Old Believers’
communities 97, 505Olkhon Island 16, 484,
492‑3, 16
Omsk 418‑19omul 486Onguday 446opening hours 644‑5opera 608‑9
Moscow 109‑10St Petersburg 202‑3
Operation Barbarossa 584Oranienbaum 213‑14Orlik 496Orlinye Skaly 367Oryol 236‑40, 237Ostankino TV Tower 78Ostashkov 248‑9outdoor activities 41‑6, see
also individual activitiesOvsyanka 472Oymyakon 545
Ppalaces 27‑8
Alexander Palace 217Arkhangelskoe Estate
122‑3Ataman Palace 358Butin Palace 510Catherine Palace 215Chinese Palace 214Georgenburg Castle 272Great Kremlin Palace 66Great Palace (Gatchina)
218Great Palace
(Oranienbaum) 214Great Palace (Pavlovsk)
217‑18Insterburg Castle 272Marble Palace 165, 168Menshikov Palace 180Mikhailovsky Castle 169Mikhailovsky Palace
164, 165Palace of Congress 214Palace of Peter III 214Patriarch’s Palace 60Peterhof Palace 210‑11Peter I’s Palace at
Strelna 214Petrodvorets,
see Peterhof PalaceSheremetyev Palace
170, 171Shuvalovsky Palace 169Stroganov Palace 165Tauride Palace 171, 174Terem Palace 66Tsar Alexey’s palace 83Tsaritsyno Palace 94Vyborg Castle 220
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
685IN
DEX P
‑R Winter Palace
(St Petersburg) 160Yelagin Palace 183Yusupov Palace 175
Paratunka 559parks & gardens
Alexander Garden 67Alleya Geroyev 351Aptekarsky Ogorod 78Botanical Gardens
(Solovetsky Islands) 290
Botanical Gardens (St Petersburg) 181‑2
Catherine Park 216‑17Central Park
(Kaliningrad) 268Central Park (Tula) 230Chistye Prudy 77City Garden (Biysk) 437City Garden (Tver) 247City Park (Tyumen) 412City Park (Yelets) 233City Park of Culture &
Rest (Oryol) 238Dolinsk Park 383Esplanade Park 220Gagarin Park 547Gatchina Park 218‑19Glinka Garden 241, 243Gorky Park (Moscow) 92Gorky Park
(Rostov‑on‑Don) 357Hermitage Gardens
73, 75Istorichesky Skver 398Kurortny Park 376Lenin Park 220Lower Park (Peterhof)
210Mars Field 170Mikhailovsky Gardens
188Naberezhnaya Severnoy
Dviny 293Park Alexandria 212Park Becker 275Park Gagarina 430Park Monrepo 220Park Pobedy 88Park Rivera 363Park Tsvetnik 374Patriarch’s Ponds 80‑1Pavlovsk Park 218Polar‑Alpine Botanical
Gardens 298Retro Park 489Rosarium 78Sochi Arboretum 363Sokolniki 78
Sokolovaya Gora 340Spin Sport park 338Summer Garden 168‑9Tauride Gardens 171, 174
Pashka (Easter) 31, 187passports 649Pasternak, Boris 123,
612‑13Pavlensky, Petr 621Pavlovsk 217‑18Pechory 262Pelevin, Viktor 614Peredelkino 123Peredvizhniki (Wanderers)
art movement 620Pereslavl‑Zalessky 147‑8perestroika 587performing arts 606‑7, 610Perm 392‑6, 393Perm Territory 392‑6Perm White Nights 31Permafrost Kingdom 543Peter & Paul Fortress 181Peter I (the Great) 153‑4,
212, 311, 570Peterhof 210‑13, 211, 28Peterhof Town 212‑13Petrodvorets, see Peterhofpetroglyphs 299
Baikalskoe 477Sikachi‑Alyan 520
Petrograd, see St Petersburg
Petrograd Side (St Petersburg) 181‑2, 193‑4, 199, 182
Petropavlovsk‑Kamchatsky 551‑8, 552
accommodation 555‑6drinking 556eating 556shopping 556‑7sights & activities 552‑3tours 553travel to/from 557travel within 557‑8
Petrov, Alexander 616Petrozavodsk 280‑4, 282phonecards 647photography 645Pivan 538planetariums 81, 188planning, see also
individual regionsbudgeting 21calendar of events 30‑2first‑time visitors 22‑3internet resources 21itineraries 33‑6
Russia basics 20‑1Russia’s regions 47‑50travel seasons 20, 30‑2visas 24‑6
plants 632‑4Plyos 136Pokrovsk, see EngelsPoland, travel to/from 651Pole of Cold 545politics 562‑4pop music 609‑10Popov Island 528population 563, 597Port Baikal 491postal services 645Presnya District (Moscow)
79‑84, 100, 104, 107, 116, 80‑1
protest art 621Pskov 256‑61public holidays 645public transport 656‑7
language 668Pushkin, Alexander 87, 170,
248, 258, 610, 611, 612Pushkin (estate) 215‑17, 216Pushkin Museum of Fine
Arts 82‑3Pussy Riot 562‑3, 621Putin, Vladimir 214, 564,
595‑6, 634Pyatigorsk 373‑5, 374
RRabocheostrovsk 287‑8Rachmaninov, Sergei 608racism 601, 646radio 640rafting 41‑2, 323‑4, 336,
see also canoeingArkhyz 382Aya 440Buotama River 541Bystraya River 560Samara Bend 339Varota Sartikpayev
Gorge 443‑4Rasputin, Grigory 578Rasputin, Valentin 613Red Square 11, 67‑70, 70,
10‑11Reed, John 68regional museums
Amur Regional Museum 514
Arkhangelsk Regional Studies Museum 293
Arsenev Regional Museum 525
Astrakhan Local Studies Museum 345, 347
Birobidzhan Regional Museum 517
Biysk Regional Museum 437‑8
Chelyabinsk Local Studies Museum 408
Engels Regional Museum 342
Gorodets Regional Museum 326
Irkutsk Regional Museum 481‑2
Kamchatka Regional Unified Museum 553
Khabarovsk Territorial Museum 519
Krasnodar Regional Museum 360
Krasnoyarsk Regional Museum 466
Kungur Regional Museum 396
Kursk Regional Museum 235
Kuznetzov Regional Museum 508
Kyzyl‑Mazhalyk Regional Museum 465
Municipal Museum of Regional Studies (Komsomolsk‑ na‑Amure) 536
Murmansk Regions Studies Museum 303
Museum of Regional Studies (Petrozavodsk) 281
Museum of Tver Life 246Museum of Volga
People’s Architecture & Culture 323
Nizhneangarsk Regional Museum 477
Novgorod Regional Folk Arts Centre 253
Novosibirsk Regional Museum 421
Ostashkov Regional Museum 249
Perm Regional Museum 392
Rostov‑on‑Don Regional Museum 357
Sakhalin Regional Museum 546‑7
Staraya Russa Regional Museum 256
Tayshet Regional Museum 473
Tomsk Regional Museum 426
686
IND
EX R‑S
regional museums continued
Vologda Regional Studies Museum 309
Voronezh Regional Museum 235
Yakutsk Regional Museum 541
Yelets Regional Museum 233
Yelizovo Regional Museum 558
Yeniseysk Regional Museum 471
reindeer 559, 632religion 29, 563, 603‑5
etiquette 23history 566
Repin, Ilya 190, 339‑40Repino 190Rerikh, Nikolai 419‑20, 421rest houses 640resting rooms 639Rimsky‑Korsakov, Nikolai
225rivers 631road rules 656road safety 646rock climbing 44‑5rock music 609Romanov Death Site 397Romanov family 397, 593Rostov‑on‑Don 356‑8Rostov‑Veliky 145‑7Roza Khutor Alpine Resort
369Rublyov, Andrei 619Rurik of Jutland 566Russian Caucasus 15, 49,
353‑88, 354, 15accommodation 353climate 353environment 633food 353highlights 354history 355‑6planning 353safety 387travel seasons 353
Russian Far East 50, 512‑60, 513
accommodation 512climate 512food 512highlights 513history 513‑14
indigenous peoples 515planning 512resettlement to 516travel seasons 512
Russian Museum 164, 165Russian Orthodox Church
566, 603Russky Island 527Russo‑Japanese War 576‑7Rybinsk 146
Ssacred springs 463Sadko Festival 31safety 21, 645‑6
airlines 653Caucasus region 387hiking 44Moscow 116‑17St Petersburg 152, 205‑6ticks 412train travel 662Tuva 459‑60
Sakha peoples 515Sakha Republic 19, 538‑45Sakhalin Island 538,
545‑50Sakharov, Andrey 93, 323Salbyk 455Samara 335‑9, 336Samara Bend National
Park 339, 635Samara Region 333‑40Sami Cultural Centre 301Sami peoples 301Sami Village ‘Sam‑Siyt’
301‑2sanatoriums 640Sanduny Baths 11, 94Saratov 340‑1Saryg‑Sep 464saygak 633Say‑Khonash Yurt Camp
465scams 645‑6Selenga Delta 493Seminsky Pass 444Sennaya 175‑8, 192‑3,
197‑8, 201, 176Sennaya Ploshchad 177‑8Sergiev Posad 148‑50Severobaikalsk 474‑7Shaman Rocks 492shamanism 605Sheregesh 431‑3Shiryaevo 339‑40Shivilig 458Sholokhov, Mikhail 356, 613shopping 667
Shostakovich, Dmitry 608Shurmak 464Shushenskoe 457‑8Siberian (Amur) tigers
528, 634Sikachi‑Alyan 520skiing 45‑6, 299, see also
cross‑country skiing, heliskiing, snowboarding
Central Caucasus 379‑80
Gorny Vozdukh 547Kamchatka 555Krasnaya Polyana
369‑70Krasnaya Sopka 553Krasnoyarsk 467Mt Avachinskaya 558Mt Elbrus 385, 386Mt Koryakskaya 558Sheregesh 431‑2
skydiving 44Slavs 565Slyudyanka 493‑4Smolensk 240‑5, 242Smolny 170‑4, 191‑2, 195‑6,
200‑1, 172‑3Smolny Cathedral 170snowboarding 45‑6, see
also skiingKrasnaya Polyana
369‑70Sheregesh 431‑2
snowmobile tours 46Sochi 361‑7, 562‑3, 635‑6,
362sok (fruit juice) 628Solovetsky Islands 19,
288‑92Solovetsky Transfiguration
Monastery 19, 289, 290, 19
Solzhenitsyn, Aleksandr 288, 613
Sortavala 286Sottintsy 545South Baikal 493‑6Southern Krasnoyarsk
Territory 453‑7Southern St Petersburg
184‑5Soviet Arcade Games
Museum 78Soviet‑era culture 28, 536Space Race, the 78, 586space tours 44, 46Sparrow Hills 93spas, see also bani,
mineral‑water spas & springs
Cheder Health Spa 463Goryachinsk Kurort 496Helio Spa 269Sayany Spa 495
Spasskoe‑Lutovinovo 239St Basil’s Cathedral
67‑8, 10St Isaac’s Cathedral 176‑7St Petersburg 48, 151‑225,
153, 162‑3, 166, 172, 176, 179, 182, 186, 210
accommodation 151, 188‑94
activities 185addresses 206bridges 152, 169, 209children, travel with 188climate 151drinking & nightlife
199‑201emergencies 206entertainment 202‑4festivals & events 187‑8food 151, 194‑9gay & lesbian travellers
200highlights 153history 153‑5information 205‑7internet resources 152itineraries 155media 206medical services 206metro 209planning 151‑2safety 152, 205‑6shopping 204‑5sights 155‑85tours 185, 187train stations 183travel seasons 151travel to/from 207‑8travel within 152, 208‑9walking tour 186
St Petersburg Planetarium 188
Stalin, Josef 68, 367, 579, 581, 583‑4
Stalingrad, Battle for 584standing stones 455Stanislavsky,
Konstantin 111Staraya Ladoga 223‑4Staraya Russa 255‑6Starichkov Island 553Starocherkassk 358‑9Stary Izborsk 261‑2State Hermitage Museum
12, 156‑7, 160, 161, 183‑4, 12, 156‑7
highlights 161
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
687IN
DEX S
‑U Stravinsky, Igor 608street names 644Strelka 180Strelna 214‑15steppe 633stone idols 449Sumarokovskaya Moose
Farm 140supersonic tours 44Surikov, Vasily 466Suvo 497Suzdal 14, 131‑5, 132Sverdlov, Yakov 68Sverdlovsk Region 397‑404Svetlogorsk 273‑5Sviyazhsk 333Svyatoy Nos (Holy Nose)
497swimming pools 79synagogues 29
Choral Synagogue 77Grand Choral Synagogue
178Lyubavicheskaya
Synagogue 81Syuyumbike 327, 328
TTaganka 89‑94, 101‑2,
105‑6, 108‑9, 116, 90taiga 632‑3Tamchinsky Datsan 505‑6Tanzybey 457Tarbagatay 505Tarkovsky, Andrei 615Tatar peoples 600‑1Tatarstan, Republic of
326‑33taxi travel 657Tayshet 473Tchaikovsky, Pyotr 123,
607‑8tea 628Teberda 378‑82telephone services 20, 646‑7television 640temples 605
Aginskoe Datsan 510Atsagatsky Datsan 506Bodkhi Dkharma Datsan
495Buddhist Temple (St
Petersburg) 184Chita Datsan 508Dechen Ravzhalin
Datsan 495Geden Sheddup
Goichorling 350‑1Golden Abode of Buddha
Shakyamuni 350
Itygel Khambin Temple 505
Ivolginsk Datsan 505Kurumkan Datsan 497Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan
498Tamchinsky Datsan
505‑6Tsechenling Datsan 460Tsugol Datsan 511Ustuu Khuree Temple
465Teriberka 308Terskol 387‑8Tersky Coast 299theatre 610
Moscow 110‑11St Petersburg 204
theatresAlexandrinsky Theatre
204Bashkir Opera & Ballet
Theatre 406Bolshoi Theatre 17,
109‑10City Theatre (Biysk) 437Drama Theatre (Omsk)
418Hermitage Theatre 203Kommunar Theatre 430Maly Drama Theatre 204Maly Theatre 111Mariinsky II 203Mariinsky Theatre 17,
175‑6, 202, 17Mikhailovsky Opera &
Ballet Theatre 203Moscow Art Theatre
(MKhT) 110‑11Moscow English Theatre
111Opera & Ballet Theatre
(Ulan‑Ude) 499Opera‑Ballet Theatre
(Krasnoyarsk) 471Tchaikovsky Theatre of
Opera & Ballet 395Teatr Russky Stil 240Turgenev Theatre 240Volkov Theatre 142Yusupov Palace Theatre
203theft 646theme parks
Grandfather Frost’s Estate 314
Permafrost Kingdom 543Snow Village 298
throat‑singing 459ticks 412tigers 528, 634
Tikhvin 224‑5Tiksi 539time 647
language 667‑8tipping 23Tobolsk 16, 415‑18, 416, 16toilets 647
train journeys 40Tolstaya, Tatyana 614Tolstoy, Leo 87, 88, 125,
231‑2, 611Tolyatti 338Tomsk 425‑30, 426
wooden architecture 428Topolinoe 539Torzhok 248Totma 314‑15tourist information 647‑8tourist visas 24‑6tours 652, see also boat
tours, walking tourscycling tours 42helicopter tours 44Kamchatka 553‑5Kuril Islands 557Moscow metro 112‑13snowmobile tours 46space/supersonic tours
44, 46train travel 14, 27, 37‑40,
647, 657‑63bathrooms 40books 37Circumbaikal Railway
494classes 662etiquette 40food & drink 40internet resources 37language 668left luggage 663luggage 40Moscow–Beijing 38‑9Moscow–St Petersburg
39‑40Moscow–Ulaanbaatar
38‑9Moscow–Vladivostok 38Murmansk–Adler 39safety 662tickets 37‑8, 657‑8,
660‑1, 660‑1timetables 658‑9to/from Khabarovsk
522‑3to/from Moscow 119‑21to/from St Petersburg
207‑8to/from Vladivostok
532‑3
toilets 40Trans‑Siberian Railway
14, 38‑9, 14tram travel 656‑7Transfiguration Cathedral
(Moscow) 77Transfiguration Church
(Kizhi) 15, 285, 15transit visas 26Trans‑Siberian Highway
46Trans‑Siberian Railway 14,
38‑9, 14travel to/from Russia
649‑52travel within Russia 21,
652‑63travellers cheques 644Tretyakov Gallery 89
highlights 92trolleybus travel 656‑7Trotsky, Leon 577, 581Trubezh River 147Tsar Bell 61Tsarskoe Selo 215‑17Tsereteli, Zurab 81‑2, 86‑7Tsugol 511Tula 227‑31, 228tundra 632Tunka Valley 493‑6Turan 458turbazy (holiday camps)
640Turgenev, Ivan 238, 239,
611Turka 496Tutayev 146Tuva 18, 458‑67, 454
culture 458‑9, 462, 465, 18
food 459history 458safety 459‑60
Tuvan culture 18, 458, 462, 465, 18
Tuvan peoples 458‑9, 462TV 640Tver 245‑8, 246Tverskoy District (Moscow)
72‑7, 97‑9, 103, 106, 114‑15, 74‑5
Tynda 534‑5Tyumen 412‑15, 414Tyungur 448‑9
UUdelnaya Fair 204Ufa 404‑6Uglich 146
688
IND
EX U‑Z
Ukraine relationship with 563‑4travel to/from 651‑2
Ulaanbaatar, travel to 504Ulan‑Ude 498‑505, 501‑2,
500accommodation 499drinking 503food 502‑3shopping 504sights 498‑9tours 499travel to/from 504travel within 505
Ulyanovsk 333‑5, 334Ulyanovsk Region 333‑40United Kingdom, travel to/
from 651Urals, the 49, 389‑409,
390accommodation 389climate 389food 389highlights 390history 391planning 389travel seasons 389
Uro 497Ushkanny Islands 497Usinsky Trakt 457‑8Ussuriland 634Ust‑Barguzin 496‑7Ust‑Koksa 448‑9
Vvacations 645Valaam 286‑7Valley of the Geysers 554‑5Valley of the Kings 458, 464Vanino 538Varota Sartikpayev Gorge
443‑4Varzuga River 299Vasilyevsky Island 178‑81,
193, 198, 201, 179VDNKh (Exhibition of
Achievements of the National Economy) 78
Veber, Yakov 342vegetarian & vegan
travellers 625Veliky Novgorod 13, 249‑55,
250 accommodation 254drinking 254‑5
entertainment 255festivals & events 253food 254‑5history 249‑50shopping 255sights 250‑3transport 255
Veliky Ustyug 314Verkhnyaya Ekon 515, 538Verkhny Uymon 448Victory Day 31, 187‑8viewpoints
Bobry Istochnik 463Epha’s Height 276‑7Vysotsky Viewing
Platform 399vikings 223, 249, 565‑6visas 24‑6, 648
Chinese visas 524visual art 619‑22
Moscow 72Vladimir 127‑30, 128Vladimirskaya 174‑5, 192,
196‑7, 201, 172‑3Vladivostok 18, 524‑33,
526accommodation 529‑30drinking & nightlife 531entertainment 531‑2festivals & events 529food 530‑1shopping 532sights & activities 525,
527‑8tours 528‑9travel to/from 532‑3travel within 533
volcanoes 555, 557, 558, 633‑4
Volga Delta 347, 348‑9Volga‑Don Canal 343Volga Region 49, 318‑52,
319climate 318food 318highlights 319history 319‑20natural settings 318planning 318travel seasons 318
Volgograd 341‑3Vologda 309‑14, 310volunteering 648Voronezh 234‑6Vosstaniya 174‑5, 192,
196‑7, 201, 172‑3
Vyborg 220‑3, 221Vyborg Side
(St Petersburg) 183‑4, 193‑4
Wwalking tours
Moscow 96St Petersburg 187
walks 186water 627waterfalls
Churchkhur Waterfalls 380
Korbu Waterfall 442weather 20, 30‑2websites, see internet
resourcesweddings 600weights 640Western European Russia
48, 226‑62, 227accommodation 226climate 226food 226highlights 227planning 226‑7travel seasons 226
Western Europe, travel to/from 651
Western Siberia 49, 410‑49, 411
accommodation 410climate 410food 410health 412highlights 411history 411‑12planning 410travel seasons 410
whales 290White Nights
(St Petersburg) 188White Sea 287‑97whitewater rafting 41‑2wine 627women travellers 648wooden buildings 617
Kizhi Museum Reserve 284‑5
Kolomenskoe Museum Reserve 83
Novosibirsk 422Tomsk 428
work 648World Heritage sites 634WWI 578‑9
WWII 56, 88, 154, 235, 342, 583‑4
YYakutia, see Sakha
RepublicYakutsk 19, 515, 538‑45,
540, 19Yamka 285Yantarny 275Yarki Island 477Yaroslavl 141‑5, 142Yasnaya Polyana 231‑2Yekaterinburg 397‑403,
398accommodation 400‑1drinking 402entertainment 402food 401‑2shopping 402sights 397‑400tours 400travel to/from 402travel within 402‑3
Yelagin Island 183Yelets 232‑4Yelizovo 558‑9Yeltsin, Boris 588‑94Yeniseysk 471Yermakovskoe 457Yevtushenko, Yevgeny 613yurts 465Yuzhno‑Sakhalinsk 546‑50,
548
ZZabaikalsky Territory
497‑511Zamoskvorechie 89‑94,
101‑2, 105‑6, 108‑9, 116, 90
Zarya 534ZATOs (closed military
zones) 306Zelenaya Roscha 367Zelenogradsk 276Zenit Stadium 183Zhdanov, Andrei 68Zhemchug 496zoos
Kaliningradsky Zoopark 268
Leningradsky Zoo 188Moscow Zoo 81Roev Ruchey Zoo 467
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
689N
OTES
690
NO
TES
691N
OTES
692
NO
TES
693N
OTES
694
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
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