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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Alannah Cusin, Andreja Skerl, Anna Conley, Dom Van Abbe, Donald Pochowski, Emma White, Hector Del Olmo, Jeff Angermann, Louise Dalton, Marcus Pailing, Marie Goetzke, Marisa Luque, Rosanne Churchouse, Sain Alizada, Sam Pulfer, Suzannah Conway, Tony Collins, Tyler LeBlanc, Vera Wedekind, Victor Jones.
AUTHOR THANKSMark BakerIn Lithuania, I would like to thank my friends Simona and Doug for tips on dining and drinking in Vilnius. Indraja Germanaite was kind enough to show me around beautiful Trakai and the amazing Curonian Spit. Eveli-na Vanclovaite introduced me to new places in Kaunas. In the Czech Republic where I live, I would like to thank my friend Katerina Pavlitova at Prague City Tourism. In Poland, friends Beata Szulęcka and Olga Brzezinska helped me to research Warsaw and Kraków. For Romania: in Timișoara, the crew at Hostel Costel. In Cluj-Napoca, photographer Crina
Prida and Madalina Stanescu at the Fabrica de Pensule. In Sighișoara, dear friends Raluca and Mark Tudose. Finally, in Moldova, Diana Railean’s enthusiasm for Chişinău was infectious.
Marc Di DucaHuge dyakuyu goes to Kyiv parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after sons Taras and Kirill while I was on the road. Big thanks to Markiyan in Lviv, all the staff at the Lviv tourist office and of course my wife Tanya, for suffering my long absences from our home in Sandwich, Kent.
Peter DragicevichIt’s a special treat to be able to meet up with friends on the road. On this trip I was lucky enough to have Kaspars Zalitis and his crew show me all of their favourite haunts in their home town of Rīga. And many thanks to Ivica Erdelja for accompanying me on the road in Montenegro.
Mark ElliottMany thanks to Kate, Amra Begić, Miloš at Srebrenica, Jan, Boro, Branislav, Nermina, Davor at Matuško, Sanja in Banja Luka, Sho-ba and Leslie for the most remarkable series
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
460BEH
IND TH
E SCENES
of coincidences, and the Aussie bridge divers (hope you survived). Endless thanks to my ever inspiring parents who, four dec-ades ago, had the crazy idea of driving me to Bosnia in the first place.
Steve FallonIn Hungary, my thanks to Bea Szirti and Il-dikó Nagy Moran for company and sugges-tions. On the road, I am indebted to András Cseh (Eger), Zsuzsi Fábián (Kecskemét) and Shandor Madachy (Budapest). Nagyon szépen köszönöm mindenkinek! In Slo-venia, najlepša hvala to the fab trio at the Ljubljana Tourist Board (Petra Stušek, Tatjana Radovič and Verica Leskovar) and Saša Špolar at the Slovenian Tourist Board. Along the way, hats off to Andreja Frelih and David May (Piran), Aleš Hvala (Kobarid) and Kellie and Peter Gasperin (Bohinj). It was a delight spending time with old mates Domen and Barbara Kalajžič in Bled, espe-cially with my partner, Michael Rothschild, in tow.
Tom MastersThanks to Catherine Bohne, Ardi Pulaj, Dmitry Sakharov, Lena Durham, Amy Se-daris, Vesna Maric, Jan Morris, Svetlana Alliluyeva and Edith Durham, all of whom accompanied me in some form on this jour-ney through the Balkans and Belarus.
Anja Mutić Hvala mama, for your inspiring laughter. Obrigada Hoji, for being there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me endless recommen-
dations – this book wouldn’t be the same without you. Special thanks go to Mila in Split. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still.
Simon RichmondMany thanks to Brana, fellow editors and the top-class team of authors who pulled together this edition.
Tamara Sheward Hvala/blagodarya to the combined populations of Serbia and Bulgaria: your warm-hearted ways and inspired lunacy make it harder for me to leave the Balkans every time. Specifically, thanks and rakija/rakia clinks go out to the Lučić family, Dra-gana Eremić, Gvozden Marinković, Tsvet-elina, Alexander and Tanya, Hristo, Andy, kum Ćomi, Nikola and Djordje, Gordana and Srdjan, and the brilliant Brana Vladisavlje-vić. Naravno, najviše se zahvaljujem mojim partnerima u kriminalu Dušanu i Maši!
Luke WatersonA hearty ďakujem to Erik Ševčik in Poprad – I hope one day all tour operators are as informative and helpful. Thanks go out to the myriad late-night taxi drivers, train restaurant car staff, cafe waiters and tour-ist information representatives that got me from A to B and helped me out when I got there. Finally, appreciative nods to the knowledgeable girls of the Human Rights League in Bratislava: how would I have discovered half the city hangouts I’ve listed without you?
461
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Cover photograph: Malá Strana, Prague, Czech Republic. Walter Bibikow/AWL ©
THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Eastern Europe guidebook was researched and written by Mark Baker, Marc Di Duca, Peter Dragicevich, Mark Elliott, Steve Fallon, Tom Masters, Anja Mutić, Simon Richmond, Tamara Sheward and Luke Waterson.
This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Brana Vladisavljevic
Product Editors Elin Berg- lund, Jenna Myers, Amanda WilliamsonAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nichol-son, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, Monique Perrin, Erin Richards, Kathryn Rowan, Kirsten Rawlings, Saralinda Turner, Jeanette Wall Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya
Assisting Cartographer Alison Lyall Book Designer Cam AshleyAssisting Book Designer Jessica RoseCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Imogen Bannis-ter, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Gemma Graham, Anna Harris, Kate James, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Sunny Or, Anna Tyler, Lauren Wellicome
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd462
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccommodation 23, 424-6,
see also individual locations
Accursed Mountains 15, 49-50, 15
activities 26, 28, 29, see also individual activities, locations
adventure toursBled 403Bohinj 404Bovec 405Durmitor National
Park 276High Tatras 384-5, 13Lovćen National Park 275Peja (Peć) 207Sigulda 222-3
air travel 435, 436Albania 43-56, 44, 15
accommodation 43, 56business hours 54-5climate 43festivals & events 32food 43, 55, 56highlights 44internet access 55internet resources 55itineraries 45language 55, 442-3money 55postal services 55public holidays 55telephone services 55travel seasons 43travel to/from 55-6travel within 56visas 55
archaeological sites 24, see also Greek architecture, Roman architecture
Bitola 251
Braşov 320Bratislava 383Bucharest 313Butrint 53Orheiul Vechi 261Pécs 193Sopron 189Spišské Podhradie 388Split 120-1Tomb of Kazanlâk 100 Veliko Târnovo 98
architecture 27, see also individual styles
art galleries 26, see also museums & galleries
Art Museum (Timişoara) 328
Art Museum Rīga Bourse 213
Art Pavilion 111 Belarusian State Art
Museum 59Brukenthal Museum 323Chagall Museum 66Christian Museum 189contemporary art
galleries (Moscow) 342Croatian Museum of
Naïve Art 111Csontváry Museum 193Czartoryski Museum 289Danubiana Meulensteen
Art Museum 383Egon Schiele Art
Centrum 149-50Fabrica de Pensule 325Gallery of Fine Arts 121Gallery of Frescos 362General Staff Building 346Hungarian National
Gallery 179Kadriorg Art Museum 165Kumu 165 Marubi Permanent
Photo Exhibition 49Meštrović Atelier 111MK Čiurlionis National
Art Museum 235
Modern Art Gallery (Subotica) 371
Montenegrin Art Gallery 275
Mucha Museum 142Museum Fotoateliér
Seidel 150Museum Mimara 111Museum of Contemporary
Art (Skopje) 245 Museum of Contemporary
Art (Zagreb) 113Museum of Fine Arts 181 Museum of Modern
Art 397-8National Art Gallery
(Tirana) 45National Art Museum
(Bucharest) 313National Art Museum
(Cluj-Napoca`) 325 New Tretyakov Gallery 339Pushkin Museum of
Fine Arts 340Russian Museum 346Slovak National
Gallery 379State Hermitage Museum
11, 347, 11State Tretyakov Gallery
Main Branch 339Tartu Art Museum 171
art nouveau architectureBudapest 179-81, 183Prague 137, 140-2Rīga 20, 213, 215-7, 5, 20 Subotica 371Szeged 194-5
ATMs 429Auschwitz-Birkenau 292
BBalatonfüred 190-1Banat 327-30banyas, see saunas
& spasbars, see individual
locations
Bârsana 324basilicas, see churches &
cathedralsbathhouses, see saunas
& spasbathrooms 432-3Bay of Kotor 14, 269-74, 14beaches 24, 14
Belgrade 363Budva 269Drymades 52Dubrovnik 128Jal 52Jūrmala 221Lake Balaton 190-2, 193Nesebâr 102Novi Sad 370Pakleni Islands 124Pärnu 173Saranda 52-3Sozopol 104Split 121Tallinn 165Varna 101
Belarus 57-68, 58accommodation 57, 67business hours 67climate 57drinks 68festivals & events 66food 57, 68highlights 58insurance 67internet access 67internet resources 67itineraries 59language 67, 454money 67postal services 67public holidays 67travel seasons 57travel to/from 68travel within 68visas 67-8
Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 65-6
463IN
DEX B
–C
Belgrade 16, 361-9, 362-3, 16
accommodation 363-4drinking & nightlife 365-7entertainment 367-8festivals & events 30, 31food 364-5sights & activities 361-3tourist offices 368travel to/from 368-9travel within 369
Bendery 264-5Berat 50-2bicycle tours, see also
bicycle travel Curonian Spit 17, 238, 17Ljubljana 402Rīga 217, 220Sarajevo 78St Petersburg 350Tallinn 166Vilnius 234Zagreb 113
bicycle travel 437, see also bicycle tours
birdwatching 328Bitola 251-3Black Sea Coast
14, 100-5, 14Bled 403-4boat tours, see also
boat travel Bratislava 379Lake Koman 50 Rīga 217St Petersburg 350
boat travel 436, 437, see also boat tours
bobsledding tours 222Bohemia 147-51Bohinj 32, 404-5Bolshoi Theatre
(Moscow) 343border crossings 436Bosnia & Hercegovina
69-84, 70accommodation 69, 83business hours 83climate 69drinks 84festivals & events 32, 74food 69, 83, 84highlights 70history 75, 78internet access 83internet resources 83itineraries 71language 82, 444money 83
postal services 83public holidays 83safety 83travel seasons 69travel to/from 84visas 83-4
Botiza 324Bovec 405-6Bran Castle 17, 320, 17Braşov 318-21, 319Bratislava 377-83, 378
accommodation 380activities 379drinking & nightlife 381entertainment 381festivals & events 32,
379-80food 380-1history 377shopping 381sights 377, 379tourist offices 382tours 379travel to/from 382-3 travel within 383
Brest 64-5breweries
Old Town Brewery (Skopje) 246
Pilsner Urquell Brewery (Plzeň) 147-8
Sabaja Craft Brewery (Pristina) 206
bridge diving 79, 25bridges
Art Bridge (Skopje) 247Charles Bridge (Prague)
141, 4, 10-11Crooked Bridge
(Mostar) 79Eye Bridge (Skopje) 247Most SNP
(Bratislava) 382Ottoman Bridge
(Prizren) 208, 16Stari Most (Mostar) 79,
18, 25Brno 29, 30151-3Bucharest 312-18, 314
accommodation 315drinking & nightlife 316entertainment 316food 316medical services 317shopping 316-17sights 312-13, 315tourist offices 317 travel to/from 317travel within 317-18
Bucovina 327Budapest 12, 178-87, 180,
182, 12accommodation 183-4drinking 185-6entertainment 186festivals & events 29,
31, 183food 184-5medical services 186shopping 186sights & activities
179-81, 183tourist offices 186travel to/from 186-7travel within 187
budgeting 23Budva 269-70Bulgaria 85-106, 86, 14
accommodation 85, 105climate 85disabilities travellers
with 105drinks 106festivals & events 28, 94food 85, 105, 106gay & lesbian
travellers 105-6highlights 86internet resources 105itineraries 87language 104, 443-4money 105public holidays 105telephone services 105travel seasons 85travel to/from 105travel within 105-6visas 105
bungee jumping 222Burgas 103bus travel 435, 437 business hours 426,
see also individual locations
Butrint 53
Ccable cars
Dubrovnik 127High Tatras 384-5Mt Kasprowy Wierch
Cable Car 296Mt Tâmpa 318Sigulda 222Vilnius 229
cafes, see individual locations
camping 424-5
canoeing, see raftingcar travel 435-6, 437-9 Carpathian Mountains
295-6cash 429castles, fortresses &
palaces 24Barbican (Warsaw) 281Bastion Passages 162Bendery Fortress 264Bled Castle 403Bran Castle 17, 320, 17Bratislava Castle 377Brest Fortress 64Car Samoil’s Castle 248Catherine Palace 352Cēsis History & Art
Museum 223Český Krumlov State
Castle 149Citadela (Budva) 269Citadella (Budapest) 179Devín Castle 383Diocletian’s Palace 120-1Dubrovnik Fort 126Eger Castle 196Festetics Palace 192Fortica 124Gjirokastra Castle 54 Kalaja 51 Kalemegdan Citadel 361Kamyanets-Podilsky
fortress 419Karlštejn Castle 146-7Kiek in de Kök 161-2King Nikola Museum 275Kremlin (Moscow) 335Kremlin (Veliky
Novgorod) 345Livionian Order
Castle 224Ljubljana Castle 397Lower Town Wall
(Tallinn) 164, 25Lublin Castle 293Malbork Castle 305Mir Castle 63Niš Fortress 372Njegoš Museum 275Old Royal Palace
(Prague) 137Peter & Paul
Fortress 347Peterhof 352Petrovaradin
Citadel 369-70Prague Castle 137Predjama Castle 407Radziwill Palace
Fortress 63
464
IND
EX C
castles, fortresses & palaces continued
Râşnov Fortress 320Rector’s Palace 127Reök Palace 195Royal Castle
(Warsaw) 281Royal Palace
(Budapest) 179Royal Palace (Sofia) 87Royal Palace
(Visegrád) 188Royal Wawel Castle 287Rozafa Fortress 48-9Rundāle Palace 221Sighişoara Citadel 321Sigulda Medieval
Castle 222Soroca Fortress 262Špilberk Castle 151-2Spiš Castle 388Sponza Palace 127Toompea Castle 161Trakai Castle 234-5Tsarevets Fortress 98Turaida Museum
Reserve 222Tvrdina Kale
Fortress 245Visegrád Citadel 188Vratnik 73-4Vyšehrad Citadel 142
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
cave art, see frecoescaves
Dobšinská Ice Cave 389Kyevo-Pecherska
Lavra 414Lake Matka 248Orheiul Vechi 261Postojna Cave 406Škocjan Caves 406
cell phones 22, 432cemeteries, see also
mausoleumsCapuchin Monastery
(Brno) 152Jewish Cemetery
(Warsaw) 284Lychakivske Cemetery
(Lviv) 418Old Church & Cemetery
(Zakopane) 295Old Jewish Cemetery
(Lublin) 293
Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 141
cell phones 22, 432 Cēsis 223Český Krumlov 21, 31, 149-
51, 150, 21Cetinje 275-6changing of the guard
ceremony (Sofia) 88-9Charles Bridge 141, 4,
10-11Chateau Cojuşna 262children, travel with 426-7Chişinău 256-61, 258
accommodation 257-9drinking & nightlife 260entertainment 260festivals & events 32food 259medical services 260sights 256-7travel to/from 260travel within 260-1
christmas trees 216churches & cathedrals
Aleksander Nevski Church (Sofia) 87
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Tallinn) 161
Annunciation Cathedral 339
Assumption Cathedral 339
Basilica of St Stephen 183
Benedictine Abbey Church 191
Biserica Evanghelică 323Black Church 318Bogorodičina Crkva 371Boyana Church 94Cathedral of Christ the
Saviour 340Cathedral of SS John
the Baptist & John the Evangelist 306
Cathedral of St Barbara 147
Cathedral of St Domnius 121
Cathedral of St Elizabeth 390
Cathedral of St George 407
Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Lublin) 293
Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Wrocław) 297-8
Cathedral of St Sophia 345
Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul (Brno) 152
Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul (Kamyanets- Podilsky) 419
Cathedral of the Assumption (Dubrovnik) 127
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 110
Church of Our Lady Before Týn 140
Church of St Elizabeth 297
Church of St Euphemia 118
Church of St Jacob 387
Church of St John the Baptist 404
Church of St Mary Magdalene 297
Church of Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta 248
Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo 248
Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena 95
Church of the Annunciation 127
Church of the Holy Cross 281
Church on the Hill 322Church on the Spilled
Blood 346Eger Basilica 196Esztergom Basilica 188-9Holy Spirit Church 163Kraljeva Crkva 371Latin Cathedral 418-19Matthias Church 179Metropolitan
Cathedral 328Mosque Church 193Nativity of Christ
Cathedral 216Old Church & Cemetery
(Zakopane) 295Plaošnik 248Poznań Cathedral 300Rīga Cathedral 213St Anne’s Church
(Vilnius) 229-30St Anne’s Church
(Warsaw) 281Stavropoleos
Church 313St Basil’s Cathedral 338St Casimir’s Church 230
St Isaac’s Cathedral 346-7
St John’s Church 171
St Mark’s Church 111
St Martin’s Cathedral 377, 379
St Mary’s Basilica (Kraków) 287, 289
St Mary’s Cathedral (Tallinn) 161
St Mary’s Church (Gdańsk) 302
St Michael’s Church 325St Nicholas Church
(Prague) 141St Nicholas’ Church
(Kotor) 271St Nicholas’ Church
(Perast) 274St Olaf’s Church 164St Peter’s Church 216St Sophia’s
Cathedral 414St Teresa’s Church 230St Tryphon’s
Cathedral 271-2St Vitus Cathedral 137Sts Peter & Paul
Cathedral 235Sveta Nedelya
Cathedral 89Sveta Petka Samardzhi-
iska Church 89Sveta Sofia
Cathedral (Ohrid) 248Sveta Sofia Church
(Sofia) 87Sveti Georgi Rotunda
(Sofia) 87-8Sveti Sava
(Belgrade) 363Sveti Spas Church
(Skopje) 243-4Sveti Stefan Church
(Varna) 102Vilnius Cathedral 229Wawel Cathedral 287
citadels, see castles, fortresses & palaces
city wallsBraşov 318Budva 269Dubrovnik 15, 126, 15Kotor 271Levoča 387Sarajevo 73-4Sighişoara 321-2Sopron 189Sozopol 104
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
465IN
DEX C
–H
Spišské Podhradie 388Split 120-1Tallinn 164 Vilnius 230-1
climate 22, see also individual locations
Cluj-Napoca 325-6communism 25-6consulates 427convents, see monasteries
& conventscorruption 431credit cards 429-30Cricova 261Croatia 20, 107-34,
108-9, 20accommodation 107,
131-2activities 132business hours 132climate 107drinks 133festivals & events 29,
30, 32, 128food 107highlights 108-9internet resources 132itineraries 110language 131, 444-5money 132public holidays 132telephone services 132-3tourist offices 133travel seasons 107travel to/from 133travel within 134visas 133
Curonian Spit 17, 238, 17currency 22cycling 437, see also
bicycle toursCzech Republic
135-58, 136accommodation 135, 155business hours 155-6climate 135drinks 157festivals & events 29,
30, 31, 32, 142food 135, 156, 157gay & lesbian
travellers 155highlights 136internet resources 155itineraries 137language 155, 445-6money 155public holidays 155telephone services 156
travel seasons 135travel to/from 156-7travel within 157-8visas 155
DDalmatia 119-31dangers, see safetyDanube Bend 187-9Danube Delta 328Diocletian’s Palace
(Split) 120-1 disabilities, travellers
with 433 Bulgaria 105
discount cards 427, see also individual locations
diving 132Djavolja Varoš 372Dracula (Vlad Ţepeş)
320, 321-2drinks 26, see also
individual locationsdriving 435-6, 437-9Drymades 52Dubrovnik 15, 126-31,
128-9, 15accommodation 129-30drinking & nightlife 130festivals & events 31, 128food 130medical services 130sights 126-8tourist offices 130-1travel to/from 131travel within 131
Durmitor National Park 276-7
EEastern Europe, travel to/
from 435-6Eastern Europe, travel
within 436-41Eger 196-7electricity 427embassies 427Estonia 159-76, 160
accommodation 159, 175climate 159drinks 176festivals & events 30food 159, 176gay & lesbian
travellers 175highlights 160itineraries 161language 175, 446-7
public holidays 175telephone sevices 175tourist offices 175travel seasons 159travel to/from 175-6travel within 176visas 175
Esztergom 188-9events 28-32, see also
individual locationsexchange rates 23
Ffarmstays 425festivals & events 28-32,
see also individual locations
Budapest Spring Festival 30, 183
Dragačevo Trumpet Assembly 31, 367
EXIT Festival 30, 370White Night 30, 347, 350
folk culture 27food 26, see also
individual locations Former Yugoslav Republic
of Macedonia, see Macedonia
fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces
frescoesAlexander Nevsky
Cathedral (Tallinn) 161Cathedral of St Barbara
(Kutná Hora) 147 Cathedral of St John
the Baptist 293Cathedral of the
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 110
Church of St John the Baptist (Bohinj) 404
Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Zrze) 252
Church of Sveta Bogorodica Perivlepta (Ohrid) 248
Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena (Plovdiv) 95
Church on the Hill (Sighişoara) 322
Humor Monastery (Bucovina) 327
Moldoviţa Monastery (Bucovina) 327
Moscow metro 344Novodevichy Convent
(Moscow) 340
Orthodox Church of the Virgin of Ljeviš (Prizren) 208
St Nicholas Church (Prague) 141
St Sophia’s Cathedral (Kyiv) 414
Sveta Sofia Cathedral (Ohrid) 248
Sveti Stefan Church (Nesebâr) 102-3
Voroneţ Monastery (Bucovina) 327
Fruška Gora 368funiculars, see cable cars
GGaličnik 250-1galleries. see art galleriesgardens, see parks &
gardensGauja National Park 222gay travellers 427
Bulgaria 105-6Czech republic 155Estonia 175Latvia 225Montenegro 277Poland 308Romania 330Ukraine 421
Gdańsk 302-5, 303Giżycko 306Gjirokastra 54Gorky Park 339-40Gospa od Škrpjela 274Gothic architecture
Kraków 287, 289Kutná Hora 147Levoča 387-8Lviv 418-9Malbork Castle 305Prague 137, 140-2Rīga 213, 215-7Sighişoara 321-2 Sigulda 222 Tallinn 161-5Toruń 306-7Wrocław 297-8
Great Plain 194-6Greek architecture, see also
archaeological sitesButrint 53 Sozopol 104
Grodno, see Hrodna
Hhamams, see saunas &
spas
466
IND
EX H–
L
health 427-8Hercegovina, see Bosnia
& HercegovinaHévíz 193High Tatras 12, 384-7, 13hiking 25
Bled 403High Tatras 12, 384-5, 13Lahemaa National
Park 170Lovćen National
Park 274-5Peja (Peć) 207Slovenský Raj 389-90 Tihany 191Treska Canyon 248 Vitosha Nature Park 94
historical sites 24, see also individual locations
hitchhiking 439Hrodna 64Hungary 177-200, 178
accommodation 177, 199business hours 198climate 177discount cards 198drinks 200festivals & events 29, 31,
183, 194food 177, 200highlights 178internet resources 198itineraries 179language 198, 447-8media 198money 198public holidays 198telephone services 198tourist offices 198travel seasons 177travel to/from 199travel within 199-200visas 198
Hvar Island 124-6, 2
Iinsurance 428-9internet access 429internet resources 432islands 24
Bled Island 403Gospa od Škrpjela 274Hvar Island 124-6, 2Margaret Island 181
Pakleni Islands 124St Anastasia Island 103Sveti Ðorđe 274
Istria 117-19itineraries 33-40, 33, 34,
35, 36, 38, 39, 40
JJal 52Jewish heritage 26-7
Budapest 181 Kraków 289 Lublin 293 Prague 141 Szeged 195 Vilnius 233 Warsaw 283-4
Julian Alps 402-5Jūrmala 221-2
KKaliningrad 31, 354Kamyanets-Podilsky 419Karlovy Vary 31, 32, 149Karlštejn Castle 146-7Kaunas 235-7kayaking, see raftingKecskemét 195Ķemeri National Park 221Keszthely 191-2Kiskunság National
Park 195Klaipėda 237-8Koprivshtitsa 97-8Košice 390-2Kosovo 201-10, 202
accommodation 201, 209
business hours 209climate 201drinks 210food 201, 210highlights 202internet resources 209itineraries 203language 209, 442-3,
444-5money 209postal services 209public holidays 209-10safety 210travel seasons 201travel to/from 210travel within 210visas 210
Kotor 271-3, 272, 14Kraków 15, 287-93, 288, 15
accommodation 290drinking & nightlife 291entertainment 291food 290-1sights 287, 289tourist offices 292travel to/from 292-3
Kremlin (Moscow) 335Kuldīga 224Kurshskaya Kosa National
Park 354Kutná Hora 147Kyiv 414-18, 416-17, 2
accommodation 414-15drinking 415entertainment 415 food 415sights 414tourist offices 415 travel to/from 415, 418travel within 418
LLahemaa National Park 170lakes
Black Lake 276Great Masurian
Lakes 306Gyógy-tó 193Lake Balaton 21,
190-2, 193, 21Lake Bled 403 Lake Bohinj 404Lake Koman 50Lake Matka 248 Lake Ohrid 19, 248-9,
2-3, 219Morskie Oko 296 Plitvice Lakes National
Park 119languages 22, 442-58,
see also individual countries
Latvia 211-26, 212accommodation 211, 226climate 211drinks 225festivals & events 30,
225food 211, 225, 226gay & lesbian travellers
225highlights 212internet resources 225itineraries 213language 225, 449money 225public holidays 225telephone services 226
travel seasons 211travel to/from 226travel within 226 visas 225
legal matters 429Lenin’s Mausoleum
(Moscow) 338lesbian travellers 427
Bulgaria 105-6Czech republic 155Estonia 175Latvia 225Montenegro 277Poland 308Romania 330Ukraine 421
Levoča 387-8libraries
Helikon Library (Keszthely) 192
National & University Library (Ljubljana) 397
National Library (Pristina) 203
Lithuania 227-40, 228accommodation 227, 238business hours 238-9climate 227drinks 240festivals & events 30,
325food 227, 240highlights 228internet resources 239itineraries 229language 239, 449-50money 239public holidays 238, 239telephone services 239travel seasons 227travel to/from 239-40travel within 240 visas 239
Ljubljana 396-402, 398-9accommodation
398-400drinking & nightlife 401entertainment 401food 400-1medical services 402sights 396-8tourist offices 402 travel to/from 402travel within 402
local transport 439Lovćen National Park 274Lublin 293-5Lviv 17, 32, 418-20, 17, 37Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
467IN
DEX M
MMacedonia 241-54, 242
accommodation 241, 253business hours 253climate 241festivals & events 31food 241, 254highlights 242internet resources 253itineraries 243language 253, 450-1money 253public holidays 253telephone services 253travel seasons 241travel to/from 253travel within 254visas 253
Małopolska 286-95Maramureş 324Margaret Island 181Mariinsky Theatre
(St Peterburg) 353markets
Cheese Market (Peć) 207
Christmas Market (Bratislava) 380
Christmas Market (Prague) 142
Dolac Market (Zagreb) 110
Ecseri Piac (Budapest) 186
Fish Market (Ljubljana) 401
Izmaylovsky Market (Moscow) 344
Ladies Market (Sofia) 91Open-Air Market
(Ljubljana) 400Rīga Central Market 217Sakta Flower Market
(Rīga) 220mausoleums, see also
cemeteriesJug Mausoleum
(Pécs) 193Lenin’s Mausoleum
(Moscow) 338Maršal Tito’s Grave
(Belgrade) 363Njegoš Mausoleum
(Lovćen National Park) 275
Tomb of Kazanlâk 100Mavrovo National
Park 250-1medical services 428,
see also individual locations
medieval architectureKraków 287, 289Kutná Hora 147Levoča 387-8Lviv 418-9Malbork Castle 305Prague 137, 140-2Rīga 213, 215-7Sighişoara 321-2Sigulda 222 Soroca 262Tallinn 161-5Toruń 306-7Wrocław 297-8
Melnik 93-5memorials, see also WWI
memorials & sites, WWII memorials, museums & sites
Hill of Crosses (Kaunas) 236
Memorial House of Mother Teresa (Skopje) 243
Slavín War Memorial (Bratislava) 382
metro tours (Moscow) 344Mikołajki 306Mileştii Mici 261-2Minsk 20, 59-63, 60,
20, 37accommodation 59-61drinking 62food 61-2sights 59tourist offices 62travel to/from 62-3travel within 63
Mir 63-4mobile phones 22, 432Moldova 19, 255-66,
256, 19accommodation
255, 265business hours 265climate 255drinks 266festivals & events 32food 255, 266highlights 256itineraries 257languages 265money 265public holidays 265-6travel seasons 255travel to/from 263, 266travel within 266visas 266
monasteries & conventsBârsana Monastery
(Maramureş) 324Bucovina 327Capuchin Monastery
(Brno) 152Cave Monastery
(Orheiul Vechi) 261Cetinje Monastery 275Dominican Monastery
& Museum (Dubrovnik) 127
Franciscan Monastery & Museum (Dubrovnik) 126
Franciscan Monastery & Museum (Hvar Island) 124
Gračanica Monastery (Pristina) 206
Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra (Kyiv) 414
Novodevichy Convent (Moscow) 340
Novo Hopovo Monastery (Srem District) 368
Ostrog Monastery (Zeta Valley) 276
Patriachate of Peć 207Rila Monastery 93Sedlec Ossuary
(Kutná Hora) 147Spiš Chapter (Spišské
Podhradie) 388St Francis Xavier
Church & Monastery (Kaunas) 235
Studenica Monastery (Novi Pazar) 371
Sveti Jovan Bigorski Monastery (Mavrovo National Park) 250
Visoki Dečani Monastery (Peja) 208
Zrze Monastery (Prilep) 252
money 22, 23, 427, 429-30money changers 430Montenegro 267-78, 268
accommodation 267, 277climate 267drinks 278food 267, 278gay & lesbian
travellers 277highlights 268internet resources 277itineraries 269language 277, 444-5money 277public holidays 277telephone services 277travel seasons 267travel to/from 278
travel within 278 visas 277
monumentsArc de Triomphe
(Chişinău) 257Cat House (Rīga) 213Civil Defence Shelter
(Olomouc) 154Fishermen’s Bastion
(Budapest) 179Freedom Monument
(Rīga) 216Gregorius of Nin
(Split) 121Gurdić Gate
(Kotor) 272Holy Trinity Column
(Olomouc) 153-4Hungarian Parliament
(Budapest) 181Latvian Academy of
Science (Rīga) 217Liberty Monument
(Budapest) 180Orlando Column
(Dubrovnik) 127Palace of Parliament
(Bucharest) 312-13Sea Gate (Kotor) 271Tower of Skulls (Niš) 372World’s Biggest
Pyramid (Visoko) 76Yaroslav’s Court (Veliky
Novgorod) 345Moravia 151-5mosaics
Butrint 53Church on the
Spilled Blood (St Petersburg) 346
Heraclea Lyncestis (Bitola) 251
Plaošnik (Ohrid) 248St Sophia’s Cathedral
(Kyiv) 414St Vitus Cathedral
(Prague) 137Moscow 12, 335-44, 336-7
4, 13accommodation 340-1drinking 342-3entertainment 343festivals & events 30food 341-2medical services 344shopping 343-4sights 335, 338-40, 342tourist offices 344tours 340travel to/from 353travel within 344
468
IND
EX M
mosquesCarshi Mosque
(Pristina) 203Dzhumaya Mosque
(Plovdiv) 95Et’hem Bey Mosque
(Tirana) 45Gazi-Husrevbey Mosque
(Sarajevo) 71, 73Jashar Pasha Mosque
(Pristina) 203Kosovo 203Mosque Church
(Pécs) 193Sultan Mehmet Fatih
Mosque (Pristina) 203Sultan’s Mosque
(Berat) 51Mostar 18, 79-83, 80,
18, 25accommodation 79-81drinking & nightlife 82food 81-2sights & activities 79tourist offices 82-3tours 79travel to/from 83
motorcycle travel 435-6, 437-9
mountaineeringCroatia 132 Macedonia 248Slovenia 403
mountains 25Mt Tâmpa 318Mt Triglav 19, 402, 19museums & galleries 26,
see also art galleries, Soviet history muse-ums, WWII memorials, museums & sites
Aleksander Nevski Crypt 87
Amber Museum 302Archaeological Museum
(Nesebâr) 102Archaeological Museum
(Sofia) 87Archaeological Museum
(Sozopol) 104Archaeological Museum
(Varna) 101Archdiocesan
Museum 154Armoury 335Astra Museum of
Traditional Folk
Civilisation 323Auschwitz-Birkenau
Museum & Memorial 292
Banat History Museum 328
Batana House 118Brewery Museum 148Castle Museum 179Castle Museum
& Tower 149Castle Museum
(Esztergom) 188-9Chopin Museum
281, 283City Museum
(Ljubljana) 397City Museum
(Zagreb) 111Clock Tower 321Czech Silver
Museum 147Despića Kuća 73Dubrovnik During the
Homeland War 127-8East Slovak Museum 391Estonian History
Museum 163-4Estonian National
Museum 172Estonian Open-Air
Museum 166Ethnographic
Museum (Belgrade) 361
Ethnographic Museum (Berat) 51
Ethnographic Museum (Pristina) 202-3
Ethnographical Museum (Plovdiv) 95
Ethnographical Museum (Sofia) 87
Galicia Jewish Museum 289
Gediminas Castle & Museum 229
Gingerbread Museum 306-7
Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum 313, 315
Historical Museum of Gdańsk 302
Historical Museum of Lublin 293
Historical Museum of Poznań 299-300
Historical Museum of Serbia 363
History Museum (Cetinje) 275
History Museum (Sarajevo) 74
History Museum of Lithuania Minor 237
House of Copernicus 306
Hungarian Jewish Museum 181
Hungarian National Museum 183
Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum 188
Izetbegović Museum 74Jewish Museum 289Kajtaz House 79Karel Zeman
Museum 141Klaipėda Castle
Museum 237Kordopulov House 93-4Kunstkamera 347Latvian Ethnographic
Open-Air Museum 218Lennusadam Seaplane
Harbour 166Lithuania Sea
Museum 238Lobkowicz Palace 137, 140Lower Gate Underground
Museum 390-1Maarjamäe Palace 165-6Marc Chagall House
Museum 66Memorial House of
Mother Teresa 243Military Museum 361Museum of
Automobiles 363Museum of Beekeeping
& Wine Cellar 368 Museum of Bourgeois
Art 297Museum of Broken
Relationships 110 Museum of Decorative
Arts & Design 215-16Museum of Devils 235-6Museum of Kosovo 203Museum of Railway
Technology 64Museum of the City of
Skopje 243Museum of the
Romanian Peasant 315Museum of the
Roses 100Museum of
Vojvodina 370Museum of Wine 93Museum of Yugoslav
History 363
Museum of Zakopane Style 295
Museum of Zamość 294National Archaeology &
History Museum 257National Ethnographic &
Nature Museum 257National Gallery of
Kosovo 203National Historical
Museum (Boyana) 94National History
Museum (Bucharest) 313
National History Museum (Tirana) 45
National Maritime Museum 302-3
National Museum (Belgrade) 361
National Museum (Wrocław) 297
National Museum of Lithuania 229
National Museum of Slovenia 397
National Village Museum 315
Niguliste Museum 164Nikola Tesla
Museum 362-3Novgorod State United
Museum 345Old Town Hall 306Onufri Museum 51Orheiul Vechi Exhibition
Centre 261Palace of Culture &
Science 283Palace of the Grand
Dukes of Lithuania 229
Palmse Manor 170Panorama of
Racławice 297Perast Museum 274Permanent Exhibition
of the 1989 Revolution 327-8
Pharmaceutical Museum 323
Pharmacy History Collection 325
Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre 300
Prague Jewish Museum 141
Pushkin Museum 257Rīga Art Nouveau
Museum 216Rīga History & Naviga-
tion Museum 213
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
469IN
DEX M
–P
Robev Family House National Museum 249
Rynek Underground 287Sagadi Manor & Forest
Museum 170Sarafkina Kâshta 98Science Centre
AHHAA 172Sergej Mašera Maritime
Museum 407Southern Fortress Wall &
Tower Museum 104State Hermitage
Museum 11, 347, 11State History Museum
(Moscow) 338Storno Collection 189Svrzo House 73Tallinn City Museum 164Tartu University
Museum 172Techmania Science
Centre 148Tiraspol National United
Museum 263Tolerance Centre 233Town Museum
(Split) 120-1Toy Museum 171Trakai History
Museum 235Tsarevgrad Tarnov Wax
Museum 98Tunnel Museum 74University Art
Museum 171Veliko Târnovo Archaeo-
logical Museum 98War Photo Limited 126
Nnational parks & reserves,
see also parks & gardens
Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 65-6
Butrint 53Curonian Spit National
Park 238 Durmitor National
Park 276-7Gauja National Park 222Ķemeri National
Park 221Kiskunság National
Park 195Kurshskaya Kosa
National Park 354Lahemaa National
Park 170Lovćen National Park 274
Mavrovo National Park 250-1
Plitvice Lakes National Park 119
Punta Corrente Forest Park 118
Slovenský Raj National Park 389
Vitosha Nature Park 94neighbourhoods
Andriyivsky Uzviz (Kyiv) 414
Baščaršija (Sarajevo) 71Čaršija (Skopje) 243Grisia (Rovinj) 118Mangalem Quarter
(Berat) 51Rotermann Quarter
(Tallinn) 165Samovodska Charshiya
(Veliko Târnovo) 98-9Savamala (Belgrade) 361Širok Sokak (Bitola) 251Skadarlija (Belgrade) 361Spanski Trg (Mostar) 79Spišská Sobota
(Poprad) 383Traetskae Pradmestse
(Minsk) 59 Vratnik (Sarajevo) 73-4
Nesebâr 102-3nightlife 27, see also
individual locationsNiš 31, 372-3Novi Pazar 371Novi Sad 30, 369-71Nyasvizh 63
OOhrid 19, 31, 248-50,
2-3, 19Olomouc 153-5opera houses
Bolshoi Theatre (Moscow) 343
Hungarian State Opera House 186
Mariinsky Theatre (St Peterburg) 353
Mikhailovsky Opera & Ballet Theatre (St Petersburg) 353
National Opera House (Sofia) 91
National Theatre & Opera House (Timişoara) 329
Opera Ballet Ljubljana 401
Prague State Opera 145Taras Shevchenko
National Opera Theatre (Kyiv)
Teatr Wielki (Warsaw) 285
Orheiul Vechi 261Oswald, Lee Harvey 63Ottoman architecture
Bendery 264-5Berat 50-1Bitola 251Eger 196-7Gjirokastra 54 Sarajevo 71, 73 Skopje 243, 245
PPakleni Islands 124palaces 24, see also
castles, fortresses & palaces
Paneriai 234Pärnu 173-5Pécs 193-4Peja (Peć) 207-8Perast 273-4parks & gardens, see
also national parks & reserves
Art Muzeon & Krym-skaya Naberezhnaya (Moscow) 339
City Park (Budapest) 181Gorky Park 339-40Grădina Publică Ştefan
cel Mare şi Sfînt (Chişinău) 256-7
Kirov Park (Tiraspol) 263-4
Łazienki Park (Warsaw) 283
Memento Park (Budapest) 180-1
Parcul Catedralei (Chişinău) 256-7
Rundāle Palace (Jūrmala) 221
Sagadi Manor & Forest Museum (Lahemaa National Park) 170
Saxon Gardens (Warsaw) 283
phonecards 432photography 430Pilsner Urquell Brewery
(Plzeň) 147-8 Piran 407-8planning
basics 22-3budgeting 22-3calendar of events 28-32climate 22, 28-32
Eastern Europe basics 22-3
internet resources 23itineraries 33-40, 33, 34,
35, 36, 38, 39, 40travel to/from Eastern
Europe 435-6travel within Eastern
Europe 436-41Plitvice Lakes National
Park 119Plovdiv 95-7Plzeň 147-9Poland 279-310, 280
accommodation 279, 308
business hours 308climate 279drinks 309 festivals & events 28, 30food 279, 309, 310gay & lesbian
travellers 308highlights 280internet access 308internet resources 308-9itineraries 280language 308, 451-3money 309public holidays 309telephone services 309travel seasons 279travel to/from 309-10travel within 310visas 309
Pomerania 302-8Poprad 383-4postal services 430Poznań 299-302Prague 11, 137-46, 138-9,
142, 4, 7, 10-11accommodation 142-3drinking & nightlife 144entertainment 145festivals & events 29, 142food 143-4medical services 145-6sights 137, 140-2tourist offices 145-6 travel to/from 146travel within 146
Prague Castle 137Pristina 202-7, 204
accommodation 203-5drinking 206food 205-6medical services 206sights 202-3travel to/from 206-7
470
IND
EX P–
S
Prizren 16, 208-9, 16public holidays 430-1 public transport 439 Punta Corrente Forest
Park 118
Rrafting 29
Bled 403Bohinj 404Bovec 405Croatia 132Durmitor National
Park 276 Peja (Peć) 207
Red Square (Moscow) 338, 4, 13
reserves, see national parks & reserves
Rīga 20, 213-21, 214-15, 5, 20
accommodation 217-18architecture 217discount cards 220drinking & nightlife
219-20entertainment 220food 218-19history 219medical services 220shopping 220sights 213, 215-17tourist offices 220tours 217travel to/from 220travel within 220-1
Rila Monastery 93Roman architecture, see
also archaeological sites
Bitola 251Butrint 53Esztergom 188-9Ohrid 248-9Pécs 193Plovdiv 95Split 119-21Varna 101
Romania 311-32, 312accommodation 311, 330business hours 330climate 311drinks 332festivals & events 31food 311, 331, 332
gay & lesbian travellers 330
highlights 312internet resources 330itineraries 313language 330, 453-4money 330public holidays 330-1telephone services 331travel seasons 311travel to/from 331travel within 332visas 331
Rovinj 117-19Rozavlea 324ruins, see archaeological
sitesRussia 333-58, 334, 13
accommodation 333, 354-5
business hours 355climate 333drinks 356festivals & events 28, 29,
30, 31food 333, 356, 357highlights 334internet resources 355itineraries 335language 355, 454-5money 355postal services 355public holidays 355safety 355-6telephone services 355-6travel seasons 333travel to/from 357travel within 353, 357-8visas 355-6
Ssafety 431, 440
Bosnia & Hercegovina 83 Kosovo 210 Russia 355-6 Ukraine 421
sailing 272, see also raftingsalt mine tours 291Sarajevo 71-8, 72
accommodation 74-6drinking &
entertainment 77festivals & events
31, 32, 74food 76-7sights & activities 71, 73-4tourist offices 78tours 74travel to/from 78
travel within 78Saranda 52-3saunas & spas
Eger 197Budapest 181, 183, 12Karlovy Vary 149Mosocw 340 Pärnu 173-4Poprad 383 Tallinn 165
scams 431scenery 26senior travellers 427Serbia 359-74, 360
accommodation 359, 374climate 359drinks 373festivals & events 28, 30,
31, 367, 370, 372food 359, 373, 374highlights 360itineraries 361language 373, 444-5money 374telephone services 374travel seasons 359travel to/from 373travel within 373visas 373
Shkodra 48-9Sibiu 323-5Sighişoara 31, 321-3Sigulda 222-3Silesia 296-9skiing
Bled 403High Tatras 384-5Mavrovo National
Park 250-1 Mt Vitosha 94 Peja (Peć) 207
Skopje 242-7, 244accommodation 245drinking 246entertainment 246food 245-6medical services 246sights 243-5, 247tourist offices 246travel to/from 246travel within 246-7
Slovakia 375-94, 376, 13accommodation 375, 392business hours 392climate 375drinks 394festivals & events 30,
31, 32, 79-80
food 375, 393, 394highlights 376internet access 392internet resources 392itineraries 377language 393, 455-6money 392postal services 392public holidays 382-3telephone services 393tourist offices 393travel to/from 393-4travel within 394travel seasons 375 visas 393
Slovenia 395-410, 396accommodation
395, 409activities 410business hours 408climate 395drinks 409food 395, 409, 410highlights 396itineraries 397language 408, 456-7money 408public holidays 408telephone services 409tourist offices 1011travel seasons 395travel to/from 410travel within 410visas 409
Slovenský Raj 389-90Soča Valley 405-6Sofia 87-92, 88-9
accommodation 90drinking & nightlife 91entertainment 91food 90-1medical services 92shopping 91-2sights 87-9tourist offices 92tours 90travel to/from 92travel within 92
Sopron 189-90Soroca 262Soviet history museums,
see also museums & galleries, WWII memori-als, museums & sites
European Solidarity Centre 304
Grūtas Park 234Hotel Viru KGB
Museum 165
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
471IN
DEX S
–U
House of Terror 183KGB Cells Museum 172Museum of Genocide
Victims 231Museum of
Occupations 163Museum of the Occupa-
tion of Latvia 216Sozopol 104-5spas, see saunas & spasSpišské Podhradie 388-9Split 119-23, 120
accommodation 121-2activities 121drinking & nightlife 123festivals & events 30food 122medical services 123sights 120-1tourist offices 123travel to/from 123
sports 26, see also adventure tours
squaresDóm tér (Szeged) 194Fő tér (Sopron) 189Gyógy tér
(Balatonfüred) 190Heroes’ Square
(Budapest) 181Hlavné Nám
(Košice) 390Hlavné Námestie
(Bratislava) 379Hviezdoslavovo Námes-
tie (Bratislava) 379Náměstí Zachariáše z
Hradce (Telč) 154Nám Majstra Pavla
(Levoča) 387Oktyabrskaya Pl
(Minsk) 59Piaţa Sfatului
(Braşov) 318Ploshcha Rynok
(Lviv) 418Ploštad Makedonija
(Skopje) 243Prešernov Trg
(Ljubljana) 397Raekoja Plats
(Tallinn) 163Raekoja Plats (Tartu) 171Red Square (Moscow)
338, 4, 13Rynek Wielki
(Zamość) 294Sheshi Skënderbej
(Tirana) 45Sobornaya Ploshchad
(Moscow) 339
St Stephen’s Square (Hvar Island) 124
Trg Bana Jelačića (Zagreb) 111
Wenceslas Square (Prague) 141
St Anastasia Island 103St Basil’s Cathedral 338St Petersburg 11, 346-58,
348-9, 11accommodation 350-1activities 347, 350drinking 352-3entertainment 353festivals & events 30food 351-2medical services 353sights 346-7tourist offices 353tours 350travel to/from 353travel within 353-4
St Vitus Cathedral 137 Stari Most (Mostar) 79,
18, 25State Hermitage Museum
(St Petersburg) 11, 347, 11
student travellers 427Subotica 371-2Sveti Ðorđe 274swimming, see also
beaches, lakesBled 403Lake Balaton 190-2Pärnu 173-4Split 121Tallinn 165 Varna 101
synagoguesChoral Synagogue
(Vilnius) 233Dubrovnik 127Great Synagogue
(Budapest) 181New Synagogue
(Szeged) 195Old Synagogue
(Kraków) 289Old-New Synagogue
(Prague) 141Pécs 193Zamość 294
Szeged 194-6Szentendre 188
TTallinn 18, 161-70, 162-3, 18
accommodation 166-7drinking & nightlife 168-9
entertainment 169food 167-8medical services 169shopping 169sights & activities 161-6tourist offices 169tours 166travel to/from 169travel within 169-70
Tartu 170-3Tatras
Mountains 383-7, 13telephone services 432, see
also individual countriesŢepeş, Vlad (Dracula) 320,
321-2theft 431Theth 50Tihany 191time 22, 432time zones 433Timişoara 327-30tipping 430Tirana 45-8, 46
accommodation 47drinking 48entertainment 48festivals & events 32food 47-8sights & activities 45tourist offices 48travel to/from 48 travel within 48
Tiraspol 263-4toilets 432-3Tokaj 197Toruń 305-8tourist offices 433, see also
individual locationstours 439, see also
individual locations, individual tour types
traditional culture 27train travel 436, 439-41Trakai 234-5Transdniestr 262-4Transylvania 17, 318-27, 17travellers cheques 430travel seasons 28-32,
see also individual countries
travel to/from Eastern Europe 435-6
travel within Eastern Europe 436-41
trekking, see hikingTrenčín 31tunnels
Cricova 261Bastion Passages
(Tallinn) 162Labyrinth under the
Cabbage Market (Brno) 152
Lower Gate Underground Museum (Košice) 390
Lublin 293 Petrovaradin Citadel
(Novi Sad) 369-70Plzeň 148 Rynek Underground
(Kraków) 287 Tunnel Ravne (Visoko) 76
UUkraine 411-22, 412-13
accommodation 411, 420-1
business hours 421climate 411customs regulations 421drinks 422festivals & events 31, 32food 411, 421, 422gay & lesbian
travellers 421highlights 412-13internet access 421internet resources 421itineraries 414language 420, 457-8money 421postal services 421public holidays 421safety 421telephone services 421travel seasons 411travel to/from 421-2travel within 422visas 421
underground passages, see tunnels
Unesco World Heritage Sites
Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 65-6
Berat 50-2Boyana Church 94Cella Septichora Visitors
Centre (Pécs) 193Curonian Spit 17, 238, 17Danube Delta 328Diocletian’s Palace
(Split) 120-1Dobšinská Ice Cave 389Gjirokastra 54Holy Trinity Column
(Olomouc) 153Kurshskaya Kosa
National Park 354
472
IND
EX U–
Z
Unesco World Heritage Sites continued
Kutná Hora 147Levoča 387-8Lviv 17, 418-20, 17, 37Maramureş 324Mir 63-4Old Town (Tallinn) 161-4Old Town (Zamość) 294Plitvice Lakes
National Park 119Rila Monastery 93Sighişoara citadel 321Škocjan Caves 406southern Bucovina 327Spiš Castle 388Spiš Chapter 388St Sophia’s Cathedral
(Kyiv) 414Studenica Monastery 371Telč 154Vila Tugendhat
(Brno) 152Wieliczka salt mine 291
universitiesLjubljana University 397 Tartu University 171
VVadu Izei 324Valbona 50Valley of the Roses 100Varna 101-3Veliko Târnovo 98-100Veliky Novgorod 29, 344-5Velka Studena Valley
385, 13Ventspils 224-5video 430
Vilnius 228-34, 230accommodation 231-2discount cards 229drinking & nightlife
232-3entertainment 233food 232history 233medical services 233sights 228-31tourist offices 233travel to/from 233-4travel within 234
violence 432visas 22, 433-4, see also
individual countriesVisegrád 188Visoko 76Vitosha Nature Park 94Vitsebsk 66Vojvodina 369-72volunteering 434Vršič Pass 19, 19Vuno 52
WWarsaw 280-6, 282
accommodation 284drinking & nightlife 285entertainment 285food 284-5medical services 286-7sights 281, 283-4tourist offices 286travel to/from 286travel within 286
waterfallsAccursed Mountains
49-50, 15
Kravice Waterfalls 82Savica Waterfall 404Slovenský Raj 389Ventas Rumba 224
weather 22, 28-32Wielkopolska 299-302wildlife reserves
Bear Sanctuary Pristina 206
Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 65-6
wine regionsChateau Cojuşna
(Moldova) 262Cricova (Moldova)
261, 19Eger (Hungary) 196-7Melnik (Bulgaria) 93-4Mileştii Mici
(Moldova) 261-2Tokaj (Hungary) 197
women travellers 434work 434Wrocław 297-9WWI memorials & sites
Franz Ferdinand’s Assas-sination Spot 71
WWII memorials, museums & sites
Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum & Memorial 292
Defence of Brest Fortress Museum 64
Holocaust Memorial Center for the Jews of Macedonia 243
Holocaust Memorial Room (Budapest) 181
Holocaust Museum 233House of Terror 183
Majdanek 293Museum of Genocide
Victims (Vilnius) 231 Museum of Jewish
Culture 377Museum of the Great
Patriotic War 59Museum of the History
of Polish Jews 284-5Museum of the
Ninth Fort 235Museum of the
Occupation of Latvia 216
Paneriai Museum 234Red Cross
Concentration Camp 373
Schindler’s Factory 289Warsaw Rising
Museum 283Wolf’s Lair 306
ZZagreb 110-17, 112
accommodation 113-14drinking & nightlife
115-16entertainment 116festivals
& events 29, 32food 114-15tourist offices 116itineraries 111sights 110-11, 113tours 113travel to/from 116travel within 116-17
Zakopane 295-6Zamość 294Zlatibor 369
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
47 747 7
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
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Map Legend
Simon RichmondRussia UK-born writer and photographer Simon first ventured into Eastern Europe shortly after the Berlin Wall fell for an eventful rail trip including Prague and Budapest. Many subsequent, always fascinating, journeys across the region have followed, with work assignments in Russia and the Baltic States. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan and Survive chapters.
Tamara Sheward Bulgaria, Serbia After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara joined Lonely Planet’s ranks as the presenter of LPTV’s Roads Less Travelled: Cambodia documentary. Since then she’s stuck to covering decidedly less leech-infested destinations including Russia, Serbia and Bulgaria. Tamara is currently living in Australia’s far north with her husband (whom she never would have met were it not for some late night ‘researching’), and daughter.
Luke WatersonSlovakia Luke fell in love with Slovakia and these days lives in its quirky capital, Bratislava, beside vineyards that yield some of the country’s finest white wines. He’s constantly planning hikes into Slovakia’s forests and hills – particularly if they go via a ruined castle or a rustic krčma (pub). As well as writing a bunch of content about Slovakia for Lonely Planet and the BBC, he also runs the quirky travel/culture blog on all things Slovak: www.englishmaninslovakia.com.
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Mark ElliottBosnia & Hercegovina British born travel writer Mark Elliott was only 11 when his family first dragged him to Sarajevo and stood him in the now defunct concrete footsteps of Gavrilo Princip. Fortunately no Austro-Hungarian emperors were passing at the time. He has since visited virtually every corner of BiH, supping fine Hercegovinian wines with master vintners, talking philosophy with Serb monks and Sufi mystics, and drinking more Bosnian coffee than any stomach should be subjected to.
Steve FallonHungary, Slovenia Steve, who has written every edition of Lonely Planet’s Hungary guidebook, lived in Budapest for three years in the early 1990s. From there he also researched and later wrote LP’s first Slovenia guidebook. He maintains close contacts with both countries, returning often to Magyarország for thermal baths, Tokaj wine and bableves (bean soup) and to Slovenija for a glimpse of the Julian Alps in the sunshine, a dribble of bučno olje (pumpkinseed oil) and a dose of the dual. Find out more about Steve at www.steveslondon.com.
Tom MastersAlbania, Belarus, Kosovo, Macedonia Tom has been travelling in Eastern Europe since the early ’90s when, as a young teenager, he travelled by train across the newly liberated ‘Eastern Bloc’ with his mother, an experience not unlike a Gra-ham Greene novel. Having studied Russian, lived in St Petersburg and currently residing in the former East Berlin, Tom knows this part of the world like few others, though it constantly manages to surprise him. You can find more of his work at www.tommasters.net.
Anja Mutić Croatia It’s been more than two decades since Anja left her native Croatia. The journey took her to several countries before she made New York City her base 15 years ago. But the roots are a-calling. She’s been returning to Croatia frequently for work and play, intent on discovering a new place on every visit, be it a nature park, an offbeat town or a remote island. She’s happy that Croatia’s beauties are appreciated worldwide but secretly longs for the time when you could head to Hvar and hear the sound of crickets instead of blasting music. Anja is online at www.everthenomad.com.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98313th edition – October 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 466 4© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSMark BakerCzech Republic, Lithuania, Moldova, Poland, Romania Mark Baker is an inde-pendent travel writer based in Prague. He’s lived in Central Europe for more than 20 years, working as a writer and editor for the Economist, Bloomberg and Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, and is an enthusiastic traveller throughout the region. He’s author of several Lonely Planet guides, including Prague & the Czech Republic, Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania, Romania & Bulgaria, Poland and Slovenia. Tweet him @markbakerprague.
Marc Di DucaUkraine Driven by an urge to discover Eastern Europe’s wilder side, Marc first hit Kyiv one dark, snow-flecked night in early 1998. Many prolonged stints, countless near misses with Kyiv’s metro doors and a few too many rides in seatbelt-less Lada taxis later, he still gets excited about exploring this immense but troubled land. A busy travel writer, Marc has penned guides to Moscow, Siberia’s Lake Baikal, Russia and the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as count-less other destinations around Europe.
Peter DragicevichEstonia, Latvia, Montenegro After a dozen years working for newspapers and magazines in both his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter ditched the desk and hit the road. He wrote Lonely Planet’s first guide to the newly inde-pendent Montenegro and has contributed to literally dozens of other Lonely Planet titles, including the Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania guidebook and five suc-cessive editions of Eastern Europe.
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