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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Amanda Pilato, Esme Sienicki, Geoff Mackay, Karyne Framand, Letitia Farrell, Melanie Basta, Shirley Farmer
AUTHOR THANKS
Alexis AverbuckFor my work on Greece, honour to Alexandra Stamopoulou for always-insightful tips and overall INSPIRATION. Margarita, Kostas and Zisis, and Anthy and Costas made Athens feel like home. Cindy Camatsos generously shared Mytilini (Lesvos) secrets and John Diakostamatis the sights and adoration of Samos. My work on Iceland was a labour of love supported by many helping hands. Big thanks to Carolyn Bain, an unstintingly generous collaborator. Yva and John became inspiring family. Ryan was, as always, a peachy partner in crime.
Kerry ChristianiA heartfelt obrigada to the warm, generous, kind-natured people of Portugal, who made the road to research delightfully smooth. Big thanks in particular to designer and all-round Lisbon connoisseur Jorge Moita and SIC TV journalist Rui Pedro Reis in Lis-bon. Special thanks, too, to the Porto pros, especially Cristina Azevedo and Alexandra Santos. André at We Hate Tourism Tours and André at Taste Porto Food Tours were also stars, giving me the inside scoop on their beautiful city. A big dankeschön to all of the locals and super-efficient tourism professionals who made the road to research a breeze, especially the teams in Vienna, Innsbruck, Graz and Salzburg. I’d also like to thank my Vienna friends Chiara and Karin for good times and invaluable tips. Finally, thanks go to Christoph Unterkofler at Villa Trapp for taking time out to tell me the truth about one of Austria’s most fascinating families.
Emilie FilouThanks to friends and family who chipped in with recommendations and joined in the research fun. Thanks also to my husband, Adolfo, for everything.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Behind the Scenes
690
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Duncan GarwoodThanks to everyone who helped with tips and recommendations, and to the staff of Italy’s tourist offices, in particular Cristi-na Bernasconi in Como, Manuel Testi in Ravenna, Francesca Piseddu in Milan and Michela Dibiasi in Genoa. Grazie also to the EDT crew in Turin; Antonello and Dora in Genoa; and Viviana in Bologna. As always, a big, heartfelt thank you to Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick.
Anthony HamSpecial thanks to Gemma Graham, Jo Cooke, Stuart Butler, Donna Wheeler, Miles Roddis, Itziar Herrán, Francisco Palomares, Miguel Ángel Simón, Astrid Vargas and to so many Spaniards and Norwegians who were unfailingly helpful ambassadors for their country – I am deeply grateful to all of them. And it gets harder with each journey to be away from my family – to Marina, Carlota and Valentina, heartfelt thanks for enduring my absences. Os quiero.
Catherine Le NevezHartelijk bedankt first and foremost to Ju-lian, and to everyone throughout the Neth-erlands who provided insights, information and good times. Dank u wel in particular to Joris Rotsaert and Pamela Sturhoofd. Huge thanks too to Destination Editor Kate Morgan and all at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu.
Sally O’BrienThanks to Kate Morgan for the assignment, and LP authors Nicola Williams, Kerry Christiani and Gregor Clark (for fab footprints to follow), plus all the in-house staff that made this guidebook a reality,
Andrea Schulte-Peevers Big heartfelt thanks to all these wonderful people who’ve plied me with tips, insights, lodging and encouragement (in no particu-lar order): Anke Gerber and Guido, Holm Friedrich, Guido Neumann, Tomas Kaiser, Andreas Gerber and Heinz, Walter Schulte, Kirsten Schmidt, Henrik Tidefjärd, Susan Paterson, Miriam Bers, Claudia Scheffler, Regine Schneider, Frank Engster, Heiner and Claudia Schuster, Renate Freiling, Silke Neumann.
Helena Smith Thanks to Anne and friends for all their help in Brussels first time around, and to the friendly Use-It crew.
Neil WilsonMany thanks to all the helpful and enthu-siastic staff at tourist information centres throughout Britain and Ireland, and to the many travellers I met on the road who chipped in with advice and recommenda-tions. Thanks also to Carol Downie, and to Steven Fallon and Keith Jeffrey, Steve Hall, Russell Leaper, Brendan Bolland, Jenny Neil and Tom and Christine Duffin. Finally, many thanks to all my co-authors and to the ever-helpful and patient editors and cartographers at Lonely Planet.
691BEH
IND TH
E SCENES
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.
Cover photograph: Piazza San Marco, Venice, Italy. Alan Copson/AWL ©
THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Western Europe guidebook was researched and written by Alexis Aver-buck, Emilie Filou, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham, Catherine Le Nevez, Sally O’Brien, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith and Neil Wilson.
This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Kate Morgan
Book Designer Mazzy PrinsepProduct Editors Elin Berg- lund, Jenna Myers, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaAssisting Book Designer Jessica RoseAssisting Cartographer Alison LyallAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nichol-son, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte
Orr, Susan Paterson, Monique Perrin, Erin Richards, Kathryn Rowan, Kirsten Rawlings, Saralinda Turner, Jeanette Wall Cover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Jo Cooke, Brendan Dempsey, Gemma Graham, Kate James, Elizabeth Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, James Smart, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Lauren Wellicome
692 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AA Coruña 608 Aachen 317-18accommodation 668-9, see
also individual locationsactivities 28-31, 669-70, see
also individual activitiesadventure tours
Innsbruck 65Interlaken 652-3Jungfrau region 653-5Mt Etna 491
Aegina 342Agia Roumeli 364Agrigento 492-3air travel 677, 678Aix-en-Provence 238-40Ajaccio 248-9Alhambra 624, 625, 15 Algarve, the 539-42Alsace & Lorraine 212-15Amalfi Coast 485-7, 35Amboise 217Amsterdam 16, 501-10, 502,
504, 16, 19accommodation 505-6activities 505coffeeshops 508drinking & nightlife 507-8entertainment 508food 506-7gay & lesbian
travellers 507red light district 506shopping 508-9sights 501-3, 505tourist offices 509tours 505travel to/from 509travel within 509-10
Andalucía 616-31Andorra 596Antwerp 85-9, 86
accommodation 87-8discount cards 85drinking & nightlife 88-9entertainment 89food 88sights 85, 87tourist offices 89 travel to/from 89travel within 89
Aran Islands 403-4archaeological sites 24, see
also Greek architecture, Roman architecture
Agrigento 492-3 Aguntum 68Athens 335, 338Capri 483Conimbriga 547 Córdoba 621-2Delos 353Delphi 346Herculaneum 481Knossos 361-2Kos 367-8Lindos 366Meteora 346-7Naxos 354-5Olympia 345Ostia Antica 436Pompeii 480-1Rock of Cashel 395Rome 419, 422-3Santorini (Thira) 356Stonehenge 143Syracuse 491-2 Tarragona 597-8Verona 448 York 154
architecture 26-7, see also individual styles
Arles 239art 26art galleries, see also
museumsAlbertina 42-3 Alte Nationalgalerie 264Alte Pinakothek 285-6
Augustinermuseum 304BAM gallery 99Bauhaus Museum 280 Benaki Museum 338 Bodemuseum 264Bonnefanten-
museum 520-1Burrell Collection 167Caixa Forum
(Madrid) 564-5CaixaForum
(Barcelona) 589CAPC Musée d’Art
Contemporain 228Capitoline Museums 422Centraal Museum 519Centre Belge de la Bande
Dessinée 81Centre Pompidou 189Centre Pompidou-Metz 214Centro de Arte
Moderna 531Centro de Arte
Reina Sofía 564 Crawford Municipal
Art Gallery 395 East Side Gallery 265Es Baluard 612Escher in Het Paleis
Museum 512Fitzwilliam Museum 153FoMu 87Fondation Beyeler 659Fondation Corboud 313Fondation Vincent Van
Gogh 239Frans Hals Museum 510Fundació Joan Miró 589Galleria degli Uffizi 463Galleria dell’
Accademia 466Galleria Doria
Pamphilj 424Galleria Nazionale
dell’Umbria 474Gallerie dell’
Accademia 451, 453Gemäldegalerie 265
Gemeentemuseum 512-13Groeningemuseum 93Grünes Gewölbe 276Hamburger
Kunsthalle 319Holburne Museum 145 K20 Grabbeplatz 315K21 Ständehaus 315Kelvingrove Art Gallery &
Museum 167 Kunstmuseum Bonn 316Lakenhal 511Lenbachhaus 286 Lentos 53 Leopold Museum 46Louvre-Lens 205 Mauritshuis 512 MHKA 87 Mudam 101 MUMOK 46Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
Baron Gérard 206Musée d’Art Moderne,
d’Art Contemporain et d’Art Brut – LaM 204
Musée des Augustins 232Musée des Beaux-Arts
(Bordeaux) 228-9Musée des Beaux-Arts
(Dijon) 218Musée des Beaux-Arts
(Lyon) 221Musée d’Orsay 184Musée du Louvre 189Musée Granet 238Musée Matisse 242 Musée Picasso 189, 192Musée Rodin 185Musées Royaux des
Beaux-Arts 76Musei di Strada Nuova 439Museo Carmen
Thyssen 629 Museo de Bellas Artes
(Bilbao) 604 Museo de Bellas Artes
(Valencia) 609Museo dell’Ara Pacis 425
693IN
DEX A
–B
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo 473
Museo del Novecento 445
Museo del Prado 564, 565
Museo e Galleria Borghese 425
Museo Guggenheim 604Museo Ibercaja Camón
Aznar 600 Museo Nazionale
Romano: Palazzo Mas-simo alle Terme 427
Museo Picasso Málaga 628
Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza 564
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian 530-1
Museu Colecção Berardo 530
Museu de Arte Contemporânea 552
Museu Fundación Juan March 613
Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) 589
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga 531
Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis 552
Museu Picasso 585Museum Boijmans
van Beuningen 516Museum der
Moderne 59-60Museum het
Rembrandthuis 505Museum Ludwig 313Museum Sammlung
Rosengart 650-1 National Gallery
(London) 116National Gallery
(Dublin) 386National Museum of
Contemporary Art 340National Portrait
Gallery 116 Neue Galerie Graz 54Neue Pinakothek 286 Palais des Beaux Arts 203 Palais Fesch – Musée
des Beaux-Arts 248Palau March 612 Palazzo Pitti 466 Peggy Guggenheim
Collection 453 Pinacoteca
di Brera 445Pinakothek der
Moderne 286
Rijksmuseum 503 Six DOGS 340Staatsgalerie
Stuttgart 299Städel Museum 305Secession 46 Taf 340Tate Britain 113, 116Tate Modern 117, 120Teatre-Museu Dalí 599Thessaloniki Centre of
Contemporary Art 348-9
Van Gogh Museum 501-3
Verkehrshaus 651Vermeer Centrum
Delft 514Wallraf-Richartz-
Museum 313Zentrum Paul
Klee 649Assisi 475-6Athens 334-44, 336-7
accommodation 339-40discount cards 339drinking &
entertainment 341festivals 339food 340-1medical services 342shopping 341sights 335, 338tourist offices 342tours 338-9travel to/from 342-3travel within 343-4
ATMs 673Austria 39-72, 40-1
accommodation 39, 69activities 70business hours 70climate 39discount cards 70drinks 72food 39, 70, 72highlights 40-1itineraries 42language 687money 70public holidays 70telephone services 70tourist offices 70travel seasons 39travel to/from 70-1travel within 71-2visas 70
Avebury 142Avignon 240-1Ávila 578
BBacharach 309Baden-Baden 302-3Balearic Islands 611-16Bamberg 297-8Barcelona 584-97, 586-7,
590-1, 15accommodation 591-2drinking & nightlife 594-5entertainment 595festivals & events 590-1food 592-4shopping 595-6sights & activities
584-5, 588-90tourist offices 596travel to/from 596-7travel within 597
Bari 487bars 26, see also
individual locationsBasel 659-60basilicas, see churches
& cathedralsBastia 249-50Bath 19, 144-7, 144, 19Bayeux 206-7beaches 26, see also
individual locationsBeaune 219-20begijnhoven 93-4, 95, 501Beilstein 310Belfast 404-9, 406
accommodation 407discount cards 405drinking & nightlife 408-9entertainment 409festivals & events 407food 407-8sights 405-6tours 408travel to/from 409travel within 409
Belgium 19, 73-100, 105-8, 74-5, 19
accommodation 73, 105activities 105-6business hours 106climate 73drinks 107food 73, 107highlights 74-5internet resources 106itineraries 76language 686-7money 106public holidays 106telephone services 106tourist offices 106
travel seasons 73travel to/from 106-8travel within 108visas 106
Berchtesgaden 290-2Berlenga Grande 544-5Berlin 260-75, 260, 262,
266-7, 268-9, 13accommodation 269-70discount cards 270drinking & nightlife 272-3entertainment 273-4food 270-2gay & lesbian
travellers 274itineraries 261sights 261, 263-8tourist offices 274 tours 268-9travel to/from 274travel within 274-5
Bern 648-50Bernkastel-Kues 310Biarritz 230-2bicycle tours, see also
cycling Amsterdam 505Berlin 269Bruges 95Lisbon 532Munich 286Netherlands 19, 513Paris 193Parque Nacional da
Peneda-Gerês 557Salzburg 60
bicycle travel, see cyclingBilbao 604-5Black Forest 302-3Blois 215-16boat tours, see also punting
Ajaccio 248Amsterdam 510Bonifacio 251Cologne 313Hamburg 319Lisbon 532Loch Ness 173Lugano 661Paris 193Potsdam 272 Rotterdam 515Sagres 542
boat travel 669, 677-8, 679Bologna 460-1Bonifacio 250-1Bonn 316Book of Kells 383, 392Bordeaux 228-30
694
IND
EX B–
C
Braga 556-7Braubach 309-10Bremen 326-8breweries
Augustiner Bräustuben (Munich) 288
Augustiner Bräustübl (Salzburg) 61
Brasserie de Monaco 247Brouwerij De Halve
Maan 93Cantillon Brewery 77Franciscan Well
Brewery 396Guinness
Storehouse 385-6Heineken Experience 503Jopenkerk 510-11MBC 226Rathaus Bräuerei 652Stella Artois brewery 84
bridgesAlte Brücke 301Carrick-a-Rede Rope
Bridge 410, 17Erasmusbrug 515, 35Kapellbrücke 650Krämerbrücke 282Murinsel 55Peace Bridge 410Pont Saint Bénezet 240Ponte dei Sospiri 451Ponte Vecchio 463Puente Nuevo 630Spreuerbrücke 650Steinerne Brücke 298Tower Bridge 117
Britain 109-80, 110-11accommodation 174-5activities 175business hours 175-6climate 109drinking & nightlife 109drinks 178food 178gay & lesbian
travellers 176highlights 110-11internet resources 176itineraries 112money 176public holidays 176safety 176sights 109telephone services 176-7time 177
travel seasons 109travel to/from 177-9travel within 179-80visas 177
Bruges 93-7, 94, 2accommodation 95-6discount cards 93drinking & nightlife 96entertainment 96-7food 96tourist offices 97tours 95travel to/from 97travel within 97
Brussels 76-84, 78-9accommodation 80-1discount cards 77drinking & nightlife 82entertainment 82-3food 81-2shopping 83sights 76-7tourist offices 83travel to/from 83travel within 83-4
Buçaco Forest 548-9budgeting 23, 673-4Burano 455Burgos 582bus travel 679
CCáceres 631-2cafes 26, see also
individual locationsCambridge 152-4campervan travel 679canals 501Cancale 210Cannes 244-5Canterbury 141-2Capri 483-4car travel 679-81Carcassonne 233-4Cardiff 159-61carnevale (Italy) 28, 455Cascais 538-9cash 673castles, fortresses &
palaces 16, 24Alcazaba 629Alcázar (Segovia) 581Alcázar (Seville) 616, 617Alhambra 15, 624, 625, 15Aljafería 600Blarney Castle 397-8Blenheim Palace 150Buckingham Palace 113Burg Eltz 311
Burg Rheinfels 309Cardiff Castle 159Castell de Montjuïc 589Castelo de São Jorge 527Castelo dos Mouros 537Castle Howard 156-7Château d’Azay-le-
Rideau 218Château de
Chambord 216Château de
Chenoceau 217Château de
Cheverny 216-17Château de Chillon 646Château de
Gruyères 647Château d’If 236Château Royal
d’Amboise 217Château Royal
de Blois 215Château Versailles 202,
203, 2Conwy Castle 161Edinburgh Castle 20,
162, 20Festung Hohensalz-
burg 59Festung Marienberg 294Fort Sint Pieter 521Fortaleza de Sagres 542Gravensteen 91Hampton Court
Palace 125Hofburg (Innsbruck) 64Hofburg (Vienna) 42, 13Kaiserappartements 42Kaiserburg 295-6Kilkenny Castle 393La Cité
(Carcassonne) 234Neue Residenz 297Neues Schloss 299Palace of
Holyroodhouse 163Palace of St Michael &
St George 374Palácio Nacional
da Pena 537Palácio Nacional
de Sintra 537Palacio Real 565Palais des Ducs et
des États de Bourgogne 218
Palais des Papes 240Palau de l’Almudaina 612Palazzo dei
Normanni 488Palazzo dei Priori 474
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte 477
Reichsburg 310Residenz 57Residenzmuseum 287Royal Palace (Luxem-
bourg City) 100-1 Royal Palace (Amster-
dam) 501Schloss Ambras 64Schloss Belvedere 47Schloss Bruck 68Schloss Charlotten-
burg 268Schloss Eggenberg 55Schloss Heidelberg 301Schloss Hellbrunn 62Schloss Hohenschwan-
gau 292-3Schloss Mirabell 60Schloss Neuschwan-
stein 292, 25Schloss Nymphen-
burg 286Schloss Sanssouci 272Schloss Schönbrunn 47Stirling Castle 172Taviro Castelo 540Tower of London 117Warwick Castle 152Windsor Castle 141
cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals
Causeway Coast 17, 409-11, 17
cave paintings 227cell phones 675, see also
individual locationsChamonix 20, 225-7, 20Champagne 16, 210-12champagne houses 16,
see also wine regionsMoët & Chandon 212Mumm 211Taittinger 211
Chartres 203châteaux, see castles,
fortresses & palacesChester 157-8children, travel with 670Christmas markets 31
Nuremberg 296Strasbourg 214 Vienna 48
churches & cathedralsAachener Dom 317Augustinerkloster 282Basílica de Nuestra
Señora del Pilar 600Basílica de Santa Maria
del Mar 585
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
695IN
DEX C
–F
Basilica di San Clemente 427
Basilica di San Francesco 476
Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano 427
Basilica di San Marco 450
Basilica di San Petronio 460
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere 425
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore 427
Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 189
Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde 236
Basilique St-Rémi 210-11Bath Abbey 145Battistero (Pisa) 470Canterbury Cathedral 141Capilla Real 624Catedral de Málaga 629Catedral de Santiago de
Compostela 606Catedral (Palma de
Mallorca) 611Catedral (Seville) 616Cathédrale de Notre
Dame (Lausanne) 645Cathédrale Notre Dame
(Chartres) 203Cathédrale Notre Dame
de Paris 188 Cathédrale Notre Dame
(Reims) 2101Cathédrale Notre-Dame
(Strasbourg) 213Cathédrale St-Étienne
(Metz) 214Cathédrale St-Pierre 641Cattedrale di San
Giovanni Battista 442-3Cattedrale di San
Lorenzo (Lugano) 661Chester Cathedral 157Chiesa Capitolare di San
Cataldo 488Church of Agios
Spyridon 374Dom (Salzburg) 57Dom St Peter 298Duomo (Florence) 462Duomo (Milan) 443-4Duomo (Pisa) 470Duomo (Siena) 472-3 Église St-Sulpice 185, 188Frauenkirche
(Dresden) 275Frauenkirche
(Munich) 284-5Fraumünster 656
Freiburger Münster 303Glasgow Cathedral 168Hofkirche 64Holy Trinity Church 150I Frari 453Iglesia de Vera Cruz 581Igreja de São
Francisco 551Jakobskirche 293Kaiserdom 305Kölner Dom 312La Sagrada Família 15,
588, 589, 15La Seo 600Mariendom 282Marienkirche 325Mont St-Michel 207-8Münster 649Nieuwe Kerk 514Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwekathedraal 85Oude Kerk 514Pantheon 424Salisbury Cathedral 142Sé (Braga) 556Sé (Porto) 551Sé Velha (Coimbra) 547St Canice’s Cathedral 393St Michaelis 319St Patrick’s Cathedral 387St Paul’s Cathedral 117St Peter’s Basilica
423, 424St Peterskirche 283Stephansdom 43Tarragona Catedral 599Toledo Catedral 583Trierer Dom 311Valencia Catedral 608Westminster Abbey 113York Minster 154
Cinque Terre 440-2Cliffs of Moher 400climate 22, see also
individual countriesCochem 310coffee houses 50coffeeshops 508Coimbra 547-9Cologne 312-15, 314Connemara 404consulates 671Córdoba 621-4Corfu 373-6Cork 394-7, 396corniches 241Corniglia 441Corsica 248-51Cotswolds 147
credit cards 673Crete 359-65, 360-1currency 22customs regulations 670cycling 669-70, 678-9, see
also bicycle tours
Ddangers, see safetyDanube Valley 52-4D-Day Beaches 207Delft 514-15Delos 353Delphi 346Den Haag 512-14Derry 410-12Diekirch 104Dijon 218-19discount cards 670-1, see
also individual locationsdiving
Cinque Terre 441Lagos 541Peniche 545Sagres 542
Douro 553Dresden 275-7drinks 25-6, see also
individual locationsdriving 679-81Dublin 20, 383-92,
384-5, 20accommodation 387-8discount cards 390drinking & nightlife 390-1entertainment 391food 388-90medical services 391sights 383, 385-7tourist offices 391travel to/from 391-2travel within 392
Dune du Pilat 231Düsseldorf 315-17
EEchternach 105 Edinburgh 20, 162-7,
164-5, 20accommodation 163drinking & nightlife 166entertainment 166food 164-5sights 162-3tourist offices 166 travel to/from 166-7
Edinburgh International Festival 31, 163
Eisenach 281electricity 671
embassies 671emergencies 23England 112-59Épernay 211-12, 16Epidavros 345Erfurt 281-3Eton 141events, see festivals & eventsÉvora 542-3Extremadura 631-2
Ffado 535Faro 539-40festivals & events 28-31,
see also individual locations
film & TV locationsBrideshead
Revisited 157Doctor Who 160Harry Potter 141, 147La Dolce Vita 424On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service 655The Godfather: Part
III 489The Sound of Music
60, 62 Torchwood 160
Fira 356Florence 462-9, 464-5
accommodation 466-7drinking & nightlife 4690entertainment 469festivals & events 466food 467-8medical services 469sights 462-3, 465-6tourist offices 469travel to/from 469travel within 469
food 24-5, see also individual countries
football Italy 446Portugal 536Spain 576, 594-6
fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces
France 181-256, 182-3accommodation 251-2activities 252business hours 252climate 181drinks 254food 181, 210, 254gay & lesbian
travellers 252highlights 182-3history 181
696
IND
EX F–J
France continuedinternet resources 253itineraries 184language 686-7language courses 253legal matters 253money 253public holidays 253telephone services 253travel seasons 181travel to/from 254-5travel within 255-6visas 253-4
Frankfurt-am-Main 305-8, 306-7
Freiburg im Breisgau 303-4
Füssen 292-3
Ggalleries, see art galleries,
museumsGalway 401-3, 402Garmisch-
Partenkirchen 290gay travellers 671-2, see
also individual locationsGeneva 640-4, 642
accommodation 641-2drinking &
entertainment 643-4food 643shopping 644sights & activities 640-1tourist offices 644travel to/from 644travel within 644
Genoa 439-40Germany 257-332, 258-9
accommodation 329business hours 329castles & palaces 257climate 257discount cards 329food 330, 332gay & lesbian
travellers 329highlights 258-9history 331internet resources 329itineraries 260language 687legal matters 329money 329public holidays 329-30sights 257
telephone services 330travel seasons 257travel to/from 330travel within 330-2
Ghent 89-92, 90Giant’s Causeway 410Gimmelwald 654-5Girona 598Giverny 203Glasgow 167-70, 168-9Glastonbury 149Gothic architecture
Aachen 317 Beaune 219Burgos 582Canterbury 141Évora 543Florence 462-3Metz 214Mont St Michel 207-8Orvieto 475Regensburg 298Valencia 608-9Venice 450-1, 453York 154
Granada 624-8, 626-7, 15Grande Île (Strasbourg) 213Grasmere 158-9Grasse 245Graubünden 662-3Graz 54-6Greece 21, 333-80, 334,
21, 27accommodation 333,
376, 377business hours 376climate 333customs regulations 376drinks 376food 333, 376highlights 334history 354internet access 376internet resources 377itineraries 335language 687money 377postal services 377public holidays 377telephone services 377time 377travel seasons 333travel to/from 367, 377-8travel within 378-80, 379
Greek architecture 21, 21Agrigento 492-3Athens 335, 338Cyclades 353-5
Delphi 346Kos 367-8Meteora 346-7Peloponnese 345Syracuse 491-2Taormina 490
Greenwich 121, 124Grindelwald 653-4Grossglockner Road 68Grotte de Font
de Gaume 227Grotte de Lascaux 227Grotte de
Rouffignac 227Gruyères 646-7
HHaarlem 510-11Hague, the 512-15Halki 355Hallstatt 63Hamburg 318-25, 320-1
accommodation 321-2drinking &
entertainment 323-4food 322-3sights 318-21tourist offices 324travel to/from 324travel within 325
Hania 362-4Hanover 328Harder Kulm 652health 672Heidelberg 301-2Herculaneum 481hiking 670
Chamonix 225Cinque Terre 440Innsbruck 65Jungfrau region 653-5Mt Olympus 347 Parque Nacional da
Peneda-Gerês 557Serra da Estrela 549St Moritz 662Zermatt 647
hitching 681Holland, see NetherlandsHora Sfakion 364horse riding 557Hydra 342
IIbiza 614-16Îles de Lérins 244 Ilha Deserta 539 Innsbruck 64-6insurance 672
Interlaken 652-3internet access 672 internet resources 23, see
also individual locationsInverness 171-3Iraklio 359-61Ireland 381-416, 382
accommodation 413activities 413business hours 413-14climate 381drinking & nightlife 381drinks 414food 381, 414highlights 382internet resources 414itineraries 383money 414public holidays 414telephone services 414-15travel seasons 381travel to/from 415-16travel within 416visas 415
Ireon 369Isle of Skye 173-4Italy 417-98, 418, 14
accommodation 493-4activities 494architecture 461art 461business hours 494climate 417costs 498drinks 495food 417, 494, 495gay & lesbian
travellers 494highlights 418history 438language 687-8internet access 494internet resources 494-5itineraries 419money 495-6museums & galleries 417public holidays 496safety 496telephone services 496travel seasons 417travel to/from 496-7travel within 497-8visas 496
itineraries 32-6, 32, 33, 34, 36
JJungfraujoch 654Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
697IN
DEX K
–M
Kkayaking
Coimbra 547Hallstatt 63 Lagos 541Les Calanques 237Parque Nacional da
Peneda-Gerês 557Keswick 159Kew Gardens 124-5Kilkenny 393-4Killarney 398-9Kitzbühel 67Klagenfurt 56-7Knights of St John 365Knossos 361-2Koblenz 310Kos 367-8Krems an der Donau 52-3 Krimmler Wasserfälle 67
LLa Lonja 609Lago di Como 448Lago di Garda 448Lago Maggiore 447Lagos 540-1Lausanne 645-6legal matters 672-3Leiden 511-12Leipzig 277-80León 582lesbian travellers 671-2, see
also individual locationsLesvos (Mytilini) 370-2Leuven 84Lido di Venezia 455Liechtenstein 658Liège 99-100Lienz 67-8Lille 203-4Linz 53-4Lisbon 527-37, 528-9, 18
accommodation 532-3drinking & nightlife 535entertainment 535-6festivals & events 532food 533-5medical services 536sights 527, 530-1tourist offices 536tours 531-2travel to/from 536travel within 536
local transport 682, see also individual locations
Locarno 660-1Loch Lomond 170-1Loch Ness 173
London 11, 112-40, 113, 114-15, 118-19, 122-3, 126-7, 11
accommodation 126-9drinking & nightlife 132-4entertainment 134-8festivals & events 125-6food 129-32gay & lesbian
travellers 133history 112-13markets 136shopping 138sights 113, 116-17,
120-1, 124-5tourist offices 138tours 125travel to/from 139travel within 139-40
Loutro 364Lübeck 325-6Lucca 471-2Lucerne 650-2Lugano 661-2Luso 548-9Luxembourg 16, 100-8,
74-5, 16accommodation 73, 105activities 105-6business hours 106climate 73drinks 107food 73, 107highlights 74-5itineraries 76language 686-7money 106public holidays 106telephone services 106travel seasons 73travel to/from 106-8travel within 108visas 106
Luxembourg City 100-4, 102-3
accommodation 101discount cards 100drinking &
entertainment 103food 101-3sights 100-1tourist offices 103travel to/from 104travel within 104
Lyon 220-5, 222-3accommodation 221-3discount cards 224drinking &
entertainment 224food 223-4
sights 220-1tourist offices 224travel to/from 224travel within 224-5
MMaastricht 520-2Madrid 564-79, 566-7,
570-1accommodation 568-9courses 568drinking & nightlife 574-5entertainment 575-6festivals & events 568food 572-4medical services 577shopping 576-7sights & activities
564-5, 568tourist offices 577 travel to/from 577-8travel within 578-9
Málaga 628-31Mallorca 611-14Manarola 441-2markets
Amsterdam 508-9Athens 341Barcelona 585, 596Cork 394Hamburg 320, 323Iraklio 359 Lille 204London 136-7Madrid 576Metz 214Munich 284Nuremberg 296Paris 200Sarlat-la-Canéda 227-8Strasbourg 214Vienna 48, 49
Markt (Bremen) 326Marseille 236-8Matterhorn 14, 647-8, 14measures 676Mechelen 84Meissen 278Melk 53Menorca 612Meteora 346-7Metz 214-15museums, see also art
galleriesAcropolis Museum 335Aguntum 68Altes Museum 264Anne Frank Huis 501Anne Hathaway’s
Cottage 150
Antivouniotissa Museum 374
Archaeological Museum (Hania) 362
Archaeological Museum (Lesvos) 370
Archaeological Museum (Vathy) 369
Archivo de Indias 616Ars Electronica Center 53Ashmolean Museum 147Atelier Cézanne 238Auswanderermuseum
BallinStadt 320-1Bach-Museum
Leipzig 278Bayeux Tapestry 206Beethoven-Haus 316BMW Museum 286British Museum 117Casa das Histórias
Paula Rego 538Casa de Sefarad 623Casa di Giulietta 448Casa Museu Dalí 599Casa Natal de
Picasso 629Centro de Interpretación
Judería de Sevilla 617Centro Flamenco
Fosforito 622Cité de l’Espace 232Cité de l’Océan 230Ciudad de las Artes
y las Ciencias 608Claude Monet’s house 203Conciergerie 188Cork City Gaol 395DDR Museum 264Deutsches Auswander-
erhaus 327Dokumentation
Obersalzberg 291Dommuseum 57Domschatzkammer 318Erlebniswelt Haus
Meissen 278Ermita de San Antonio
de la Florida 565, 568Euskal Museoa 604Galway City Museum 401Germanisches National-
museum 296Goethe-National-
museum 280Goldenes Dachl &
Museum 64Haus der Geschichte 316Haus der Musik 43Haven Museum 515Heraklion Archaeological
Museum 359
698
IND
EX M-N
museums continuedHistorial de la Grande
Guerre 205Historium 93Hospital de los Venera-
bles Sacerdotes 616-7Imperial War Museum 120In Flanders Fields 97Internationales Mari-
times Museum 321Jane Austen Centre 145Jorvik Viking Centre 154Jüdisches Museum 265Kaiserliche Schatz-
kammer 42Kerry Bog Village
Museum 400Kilmainham Gaol 386Kunsthalle 52Kunsthaus 656Kunsthaus Graz 54-5Kunsthistorisches
Museum 43Landeszeughaus 55Le Clos Lucé 217Loch Ness Centre &
Exhibition 173Madame Tussauds 117Maison Bonaparte 248Maison de la Magie 215Maritiem Museum
Rotterdam 515Memorial Museum
Passchendaele 1917 98Mercedes-Benz
Museum 299-300MIM 76-7 Miniatur Wunderland 319Mittelalterliches
Kriminalmuseum 293-4MNHA 101Mozarts Geburtshaus 59Mozart-Wohnhaus 59Municipal Museum het
Prinsenhof 514Musée Carnavalet 192Musée de la Mer 230Musée Départemental
Breton 208Musée des Civilisations
de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée 236
Musée des Tissus 221Musée d’Histoire
de la Ville de Luxembourg 100
Musée d’Histoire de St-Malo 209
Musée du Cinquante-naire 77
Musée du Quai Branly 184-5
Musée Horta 77Musée International de
la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge 641
Musée International de la Parfumerie 245
Musée National d’Histoire Militaire 104
Musée Océanographique de Monaco 247
Musée Olympique 645Museo Archeologico
Nazionale 476Museo Archeologico
Paolo Orsi 492-3Museo Civico 472Museo da Catedral 606Museo das Peregrinacións
e de Santiago 606-7Museo de Arte
Flamenco 629Museo del Baile
Flamenco 617Museo del Bargello 463Museo del Foro de
Caesaraugusta 601Museo del Teatro de
Caesaraugusta 601Museo delle Cappelle
Medicee 466Museo Egizio 442Museo Nazionale del
Cinema 442Museo Nazionale
Etrusco di Villa Giulia 425, 427
Museo Sefardi 624Museu d’Història de
Barcelona 585Museu d’Història
de Tarragona 597Museu d’Història dels
Jueus de Girona 598Museu do Fado 530Museu Nacional
Arqueològic de Tarragona 598-9
Museu Nacional do Azulejo 531
Museum of Byzantine Culture 348
Museum of Natural History (Dublin) 387
Museum of Prehistoric Thira 356
Museum Plantin- Moretus 85
Museum St- Janshospitaal 93
Museumsufer Frankfurt 305
National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 338
National Craft Gallery & Kilkenny Design Centre 393
National Maritime Museum 124
National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology 385
National Museum of Scotland 162
National Railway Museum 154-5
Natural History Museum 121
Neues Museum 263Palais du Tau 211Palazzo Ducale 451Palazzo Vecchio 463Panthéon 185Patek Philippe
Museum 641Pavilhão do
Conhecimento 531Peloponnese Folklore
Foundation Museum 344
Pergamonmuseum 263Porsche Museum 300Rijksmuseum van
Oudheden 511Riverside Museum 167-8Roman Baths 144-5Römisch-Germanisches
Museum 312Rubenshuis 85Salisbury Museum 142Salzburg Museum 58San Telmo Museoa 602Schiller-Museum 280Schokoladenmuseum 313Schweizerisches
Landesmuseum 657-8Science Museum 121Shakespeare’s
Birthplace 150Sigmund Freud
Museum 47Spuerkeess 101Stasi Museum
(Berlin) 266Stasi Museum
(Leipzig) 278-9Stedelijk Museum 503Titanic Belfast 405Topographie des
Terrors 265Tower Museum 411Ulster Museum 405
Victoria & Albert Museum 121
Wien Museum 47Yorkshire Museum 155Zaans Museum 510Zeitgeschichtliches
Forum 278Zwinger 275
Milan 443-7, 444mobile phones 675, see
also individual locationsMolyvos (Mithymna) 371Monaco 246-8money 22, 23, 670-1, 673-4Moni Arkadiou 363Mons 99Monsaraz 543-4Mont St-Michel 207-8 Monterosso 441Montreux 646Morocco 632Moselle Valley
(Germany) 310Moselle Valley
(Luxembourg) 105Mosteiro dos
Jerónimos 530motorcycle travel 681-2mountaineering 225, 647Mt Etna 491Mt Olympus 347Mt Pilatus 651Munich 15, 283-90,
284-5, 15accommodation 287-8drinking & nightlife 289food 288-9gay & lesbian
travellers 289sights 283-7tourist offices 289tours 286-7travel to/from 289-90travel within 290
Murano 453, 455Mürren 655music 27Mycenae 345Mykonos 350-4, 352Mystras 345Mytilini 370-1
NNafplio 344-5Naples 476-82, 478
accommodation 479discount cards 477drinking & nightlife 481-2entertainment 482festivals & events 477, 479
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
699IN
DEX N
–S
food 480-2medical services 482sights 476tourist offices 482travel to/from 482-3travel within 482-3
Naxos 354-6Nazaré 546Netherlands 19,
499-524, 500, 19accommodation
499, 522bicycle tours 513business hours 522climate 499 discount cards 522drinks 521food 499, 521, 524highlights 500internet resources 522itineraries 501language 686money 522-3public holidays 523safety 523telephone services 523travel seasons 499 travel to/from 523-4travel within 524
Nice 241-4, 243nightlife 26, see also
individual locationsNîmes 234-5Northern Ireland 404-13, 17Notting Hill Carnival
30, 125-6Nuremberg 295-7
OÓbidos 545Oia 356, 17Oktoberfest 15, 31, 283, 15Olympia 345-6Orvieto 475Ostia Antica 436Oxford 147-50
PPadua 449palaces, see castles,
fortresses & palacesPalais des Papes 240Palais du Tau 211 Paleohora 364Palermo 488-90Pamplona 605Parco Nazionale delle
Cinque Terre 440Paris 184-202, 186-7,
190-1, 194, 10-11
accommodation 193, 195discount cards 185drinking & nightlife 197-8entertainment 198-9food 195-7gay & lesbian
travellers 199medical services 200shopping 200sights 184-5, 188-9, 192tourist offices 200 tours 192-3travel to/from 200-1travel within 201-2
Peniche 544-5Perugia 474-5Phaestos 362Piraeus 343Pisa 470-1planning 22-3, see also
individual countriescalendar of events 28-31itineraries 32-6
Pompeii 480-1Pont du Gard 235Porto 549-55, 550-1
accommodation 552-3drinking & nightlife 554-5entertainment 554festivals & events 552food 553-4medical services 554sights & activities 550-2tourist offices 554travel to/from 554travel within 554-5
Portugal 525-60, 526accommodation 525, 558business hours 558climate 525drinks 558food 525, 558highlights 526internet resources 558itineraries 527language 688money 558-9public holidays 559telephone services 559travel seasons 525travel to/from 559travel within 560
Positano 485-6Potsdam 272prehistoric sites
Avebury 142Carnac 209Cueva de Altamira 606Menhir do Outeiro 544
Stonehenge 143Vézère Valley 227
punting 148, 153, see also boat tours
Pythagorio 369
QQuimper 208
RRavello 486Ravenna 461-2red-light districts 324, 506Regensburg 298-9Reims 210-11Rethymno 363Rhine Valley 18, 308-10, 18Rhodes 365-7Ring of Kerry 399-401Riomaggiore 442rock climbing 347Roman architecture
Acueducto 581Aguntum 68Aix-en-Provence 239Bath 19, 144-7, 19Capri 483Chester 157-8Conimbriga 547Herculaneum 481León 582Nîmes 234Ostia Antica 436Pompeii 480-1Pont du Gard 235Rome 12, 419, 422-3,
424, 12Tarragona 597-8Tivoli 436Trier 311Verona 448Via Appia Antica 434York 154 Zaragoza 600-1
Romantic Road 292-5Rome 12, 419-39, 420-1,
426, 428-9, 430-1, 12accommodation 427,
429, 431-2discount cards 425drinking
& nightlife 434-5entertainment 435food 432-4internet resources 437medical services 436 safety 436shopping 436sights 419, 422-5,
427, 434
tourist offices 436-7travel to/from 437travel within 437-9
Ronda 630Rothenburg ob der
Tauber 293-4Rotterdam 515-19, 516, 35ruins, see archaeological
sites
Ssafe travel 674-5Sagres 542Salamanca 579-81Salisbury 142-3Salzburg 21, 57-62, 58, 21
accommodation 60-1discount cards 59drinking & nightlife 61festivals & events 60food 61sights 57-60tourist offices 62tours 60travel to/from 62travel within 62
Samaria Gorge 365Samos 369-70San Gimignano 472San Sebastián 602-4Santiago de
Compostela 606-8Santillana del Mar 606Santorini (Thira) 17, 356-9,
357, 17Sappho 370Sarlat-la-Canéda 227-8scams 675Schilthorn 655Schloss Schönbrunn 47Scotland 162-74Segovia 581, 583senior travellers 670-1Serra da Estrela 549Seville 616-21, 618
accommodation 619drinking & nightlife 620entertainment 620-1festivals & events 618food 619-20sights 616-18tourist offices 621travel to/from 621
Sicily 487-93Siena 472-4Silves 541-2Sintra 537-8Skellig Michael 399Skiathos 372-3
700
IND
EX S–
Z
skiing 20, 670Chamonix 20, 225-7, 20Jungfrau region 653-5Kitzbühel 67Lienz 67-8St Moritz 662-3Vorarlberg 68-9Zermatt 647-8
Snowdon 161soccer, see footballSomme 204-5Sorrento 484-5Sougia 364Spain 561-638, 562-3
accommodation 561, 632-3
activities 633business hours 633climate 561drinks 634food 561, 634gay & lesbian
travellers 633highlights 562-3internet access 633internet resources 633itineraries 564language 688language courses 633-4money 634public holidays 634safety 634telephone services 635tourist offices 632travel seasons 561travel to/from 635-6travel within 636-8visas 635
Speicherstadt 319St Goar 309St Goarshausen 309St-Malo 209-10St Moritz 662-3St-Tropez 245-6Stonehenge 143Strasbourg 213-14Stratford-upon-Avon 150-2student travellers 671Stuttgart 299-300surfing 670
Biarritz 230Munich 286Peniche 545Rotterdam 517Sagres 542
Switzerland 639-66, 640accommodation 639, 663business hours 663climate 639discount cards 663drinks 664electricity 663food 639, 664highlights 640internet access 663internet resources 663itineraries 641language 686-8money 663-4public holidays 664telephone services 664travel seasons 639travel to/from 664-5travel within 665-6 visas 664
Syracuse 491-2
TTaormina 490-1Tarragona 597-600Tavira 540 taxis 682telephone services 675, see
also individual locationstheft 675Thessaloniki 347-50, 348time 675tipping 674Tivoli 436Toledo 583-4Tomar 546Torcello 455Torre de Belém 530Toulouse 232-3tourist offices 675, see also
individual locationstours 682, see also
adventure tours, bicycle tours, boat tours, individual locations
airbus factory 233canal boat 505 cathedral rooftop 607cheese making 647 Harry Potter 141 mustard factory 219 segway 60, 338 Sound of Music 60 Trabi ‘safari’ 269 tram 459
train journeys 666Bernina Express 661Glacier Express 648
Gornergratbahn 648Snowdon Mountain
Railway 161train travel 677, 682-5travellers cheques 674Triberg 303Trier 310-11Trieste 459-60Trossachs 170-1Turin 442-3TV locations, see film &
TV locationsTyrol 63-8
UUnited Kingdom, see
BritainUtrecht 519-20
VVaduz 658Valais 647-8Vathy (Samos Town) 369Vatican 423-4Venice 12, 450-9, 451, 452,
454, 12accommodation 455-6activities 455drinking & nightlife 458entertainment 458festivals & events 455food 456-7sights 450-1, 453tourist offices 458travel to/from 458-9travel within 459
Vernazza 441Verona 448-50Versailles 202-3, 2Via Appia Antica 434Viana do Castelo 555-6, 7Vianden 104Vienna 13, 42-52, 44-5, 13
accommodation 48activities 47discount cards 43drinking & nightlife 49-50entertainment 43, 50-1festivals & events 47-8food 48-9medical services 51tourist offices 51sights 42-3, 46-7tourist offices 51travel to/from 51-2travel within 52
Vikos Gorge 350Villa Adriana 436
Villa d’Este 436visas 22, 675-6, see also
individual countriesVorarlberg 68-9
WWales 159-62Wallonia 99-100war memorials, see WWI &
II memorials & sitesweather 22websites, see internet
resourcesweights 676Weimar 280-1Wengen 654Werfen 62Windermere 158Windsor 141windsurfing 670wine regions, see also
champagne housesBordeaux 229 Burgandy 220Douro Valley 553Moselle Valley
(Germany) 310Moselle Valley
(Luxembourg) 105Rhine Valley 308-10Vila Nova de Gaia 555
Würzburg 294-5WWI & II memorials & sites
Bergen-Belsen 326Dachau Concentration
Camp 290D-Day Beaches 207Eagle’s Nest 291Hitler’s Bunker 261-2Holocaust Memorial 261Memorium Nuremberg
Trials 296Sachsenhausen Concen-
tration Camp 274 Somme 204-6 Ypres 97-9
YYork 154-6Ypres 97-9
ZZaanse Schans 510Zagorohoria 350Zaragoza 600-2Zermatt 647-8Zürich 655-9, 656
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
702702
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/S-train/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
Tube station
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Map Legend
Anthony HamSpain Spain is one of Anthony’s great loves. In 2001, Anthony (www.anthonyham.com) fell in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person. After 10 years living in the city, he recently returned to Australia with his Spanish-born family, but he still adores his adopted country as much as the first day he arrived.
Catherine Le NevezThe Netherlands Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she first roadtripped across Europe, including the Netherlands, aged four, and she’s been returning to this spirit-ed, gezellig country ever since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in editing and publish-ing along the way. Catherine has worked as a freelance writer for many years and during the past decade or so she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guidebooks and articles covering destinations all over Europe and beyond. Catherine also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Survival chapters.
Sally O’BrienLiechtenstein, Switzerland Since moving to Switzerland in 2007, Sally has revelled in swimming the country’s lakes and rivers, snowboarding down its astounding mountains, scoffing its cheese and chocolate, and quaffing local-secret wines. Writ-ing about this dreamy country for Lonely Planet and heading out on the road with her family to explore every last corner of her adopted home only adds to the fun.
Andrea Schulte-Peevers Germany Born and raised in Germany, and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries and now makes her home in Berlin. She’s written about her native coun-try for two decades and authored or contributed to some 80 Lonely Planet titles, including all editions of the Germany country guide and the Berlin city guide.
Helena SmithBelgium, Luxembourg Helena Smith is the author of Lonely Planet’s Pocket Brussels & Bruges, and was very glad to return to Europe’s most eccentric country to work on this guide, as well as adding Luxembourg to her list of countries visited. When not travel writing, Helena writes about food and community at www.eathackney.com.
Neil WilsonBritain, Ireland Neil was born in Scotland and, save for a few years spent abroad, has lived there most of his life; he is based near Dunkeld in Perthshire. An endur-ing passion for the great outdoors has inspired hillwalking, mountain-biking and sailing expeditions to every corner of Britain and Ireland. Neil has been a full-time author since 1988 and has written more than 70 guidebooks for various publish-ers, including Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England and Ireland.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Alexis AverbuckGreece Alexis lives in Hydra, Greece, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. A travel writer for two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Ameri-cas. She’s also a painter. Visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.
Kerry ChristianiAustria, Portugal Ever since her first post-grad trip to Austria, Kerry has seized every available chance to travel back to the country of Mozart, Maria and co. Hang-ing out in the cream of Vienna’s coffee houses, road-testing Christmas markets and glimpsing the first snow of the season in the Alps were highlights this edition. Her love affair with Portugal began as a child hiking the cliffs of the Algarve. She’s re-turned countless times since, and remains captivated by this country’s creative spirit and beautifully melancholic soul. Kerry has authored/co-authored around two dozen travel guides, including Lonely Planet Austria, Pocket Lisbon and Pocket Porto. She tweets @kerrychristiani and lists her latest work at www.kerrychristiani.com.
Emilie FilouFrance Emilie was born in Paris and spent most of her childhood holidays roaming the south of France. She now lives in London, where she works as a freelance journalist specialising in development issues in Africa. She still goes to France every year for holidays and loves feasting on local market products, especially cheese and wine. See more of Emilie’s work on www.emiliefilou.com; she tweets at @emiliefilou.
Duncan GarwoodItaly Duncan is a British travel writer based near Rome. Since he moved to Italy in 1997, he has travelled extensively in his adopted homeland and worked on about 30 Lonely Planet guides, including Rome, Sardinia, Sicily and Italy’s Best Trips. Memories from his most recent trip include a barbecue in a Palermo street mar-ket and catching an open-air concert in Trieste’s vast central piazza.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98312th edition – October 2015ISBN 978 1 74321 581 4© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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