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359359

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Ah Yew Lim, Alan Bahl, Anat Werbner, Andrea Gillarduzzi, Andreas Stimm, Andrew Whitmarsh, Anne Forget-Levasseur, Artur Wróbel, Avishai Green B Bill Prime, Brandon Hausmann C Charles Ruechel, Chel-sea Phillilppe, Corlius Jooste, Curtis Miller D Daniel Jones, David Galloway , David Kleinberg, Don Buckley E Evie Lim G Guillaume Roberge H Henry Coulter, Henryk Blasinski I Ian Macdonald, Inbal Frankenstein J Jake Strauss, Jane Corrie, Jay Thompson-Westra, Jean-Pierre Mélon, Jeffrey Grabow, Jenny Morgan, Jessica Alderman, Jochen Schuhmacher, John Sanderson, John Wall, Jonathan Wickens K Kitty Dun-can L Larry Gems, Lauren Ruff , Laurence Wilbraham, Lydia Murphy M Marleen Lin, Mazlina Tahir, Michael Schindler, Mikael Persson, Mizio Matteucci, Muzzi Hoole N Natalie Francis, Nicholas Kanaan P Paul Clements, Pete Thomas, Peter Bidstrup, Peter Diffey, Peter March, Petra Bolfing, Pierre Gaspart R Raanan Greenman, Robert Thomas, Robert Kincaid, Robert Thomas, Roberto Martinez, Roger Ray, Roland Eger, Ronald Gallagher, Roshidah Hashim, Rosie Amesbury S Sabrina Laminger, Salvatore Cambria , Sam Miller, Scott Haggmark, Sebastian Sievers, Shai Roth, Simon Gamache, Susan Longman T Thomas Joller, Toby Frankenstein, Toby McAdams, Tom Stuart W William Chan X Xavi Pérez Y Yuval Yitzhak.

AUTHOR THANKSBradley MayhewThanks to Kim Bannister of Kamzang Treks and Lhakpa Sherpa of Khumbu Adventures. Thanks to Niraj Shrestha and Rajesh Karki of the always professional Himalayan Encounters. Dawa Gyaljen Sherpa and his father gave great Rolwaling tips. Tejanath Pokharel in Khandbari was helpful with Makalu information. Phurba Gyaltsen Sherpa was a great porter-guide in the Khumbu, as ever. Cheers to Mukhiya and Maya, and to Dave, Cecile and Nieves, who were fine trekking companions in Manaslu and Tsum. Namgyal Ngodup generously offered lots of info on his native Tsum. Love to Kelli and thanks for coming to Kathmandu to see me!

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the guidance of Stan Arm-ington, Nepal trekking pioneer and author of the first eight editions of this book. I also thank Durga Bandari, Dawa Lama (Big), Dawa Lama (Small), Ram Roka, Narendra Lama (ACAP), Vimal and Vijay from nature-treks.com, and Ben Cester and Sinead Brown for accompanying me on the Khopra Ridge trek. Cheers to fellow authors Bradley Mayhew and Stuart Butler, and last but not least, thanks to life and travelling companion Jenny Fegent.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

360

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Stuart ButlerFirst and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife Heather, and children Jake and Grace for their patience with this long project, which involved so much time up in the mountains and out of touch. In Nepal, huge thanks to Thiley Lama and Ghyalbu Tamang for a memorable ascent of Yala Peak. Thanks to Durga Tamang for advice with the Tamang Heritage Trail and the Helambu treks. For an amazing Kanchen-junga trek thanks to Lakpa Dorje Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Aug Dawa Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Dipak Rai, Rames Lama, Pemba Tamang, A and Jun Tamang, Sankar Karki and, at Himalayan Glacier, thanks to Naba Raj Amgai for organising it all. Thanks also to Anna Hindmarsh and Radko for tips on Kanchenjunga North. Finally, thanks to Ben Clift and John Gray for accompanying me on the mountain trails, but clearly Ben it would be you who would be eaten by a jaguar first…

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Gokyo Ri, Sagarmatha National Park. Feng Wei Photography/Getty

POST-EARTHQUAKE UPDATE

Special thanks are due to the journal-ists and Nepal experts who helped to update our content following the 2015 earthquakes, specifically: Suraj Shakya, Ajay Narsingh Rana, Nabin Baral, Rabik Upadhayay, Abhi Shrestha, Niraj Shrestha, Robin from Rural Heritage, Tony Jones from Himalayan Encounters and Jennifer Berry from Kathmandu Inside Out.

THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Lindsay Brown and Stuart Butler. The ninth edition was written and researched by Bradley May-hew and Joe Bindloss, while the eighth edition was written

by Stan Armington. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editors Kate Kiely, Martine PowerSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Wendy WrightAssisting Editors Nigel Chin,

Peter Cruttenden, Victoria Har-rison, Gabrielle Innes, Lauren O’ConnellAssisting Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Corey Hutch-ison, Gabriel LindquistCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannis-ter, Kate James, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Angela Tinson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 361

See also subindex for Treks, p368

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

2001 Royal Massacre 303, 304

2015 earthquakes 8-9, 290, see also earthquake damage

AACAP 154acclimatisation 350accommodation 324-6

Annapurna region 127eastern Nepal 218Everest region 64-5, 66Kathmandu 46, 52-4Langtang, Helambu &

Manaslu 198language 353Mustang 184western Nepal 251

activities 326cycling 324extreme sports 88mountaineering 34-5

acute mountain sickness 41, 349-51

Ahl Kharka 133AIDS 347-8air travel 341

helicopter rides 342safety 118, 341-2scenic flights 50to/from Nepal 337-9within Nepal 341-2

airports & airstrips 337Dolpo 260Jomson 129, 195Jumla 287Kathmandu 17

Lukla 118Manang 129, 156

alcohol 233, 330-1altitude sickness 41, 349-51Ama Dablam Base Camp 83Amji Khola 243Amjilosa 238Amphu Lapcha 85AMS 41, 349-51animals 316-18

blue sheep 250, 317yaks 72, 96

animism 311Annapurna 142Annapurna Base Camp

138-43Annapurna Circuit Trek 11,

144-75, 10-11, 145, 152-3, 165, 172

Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) 154

Annapurna Dhaulagiri Community Trail 135, 134

Annapurna Himal 129-74Annapurna Panorama Trek

129-33, 130Annapurna region 43,

124-95, 125accommodation 127climate 124conservation projects 154culture 124development 139, 181earthquake damage

132, 182emergencies 127environment 126-7explorers 170highlights 125maps 127mountain views 124permits 127planning 124, 127towns & facilities 192-5travel seasons 124travel to/from 127-9

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek 13, 131, 136-44, 137, 13

antiques 327area codes 17Arughat 214, 217Arun Valley 220-33Arya 103-4ATMs 332avalanches 41, 138

BBabiyachour 270-1Babu Chhiri Sherpa 86, 114backpacks 37-8Bagar 141Bagarchhap 150Bahun people 312Bahundanda 146Balasa 259Balawa Besi 228Bamboo (Annapurna region)

140, 143Bamboo (Langtang) 201Banskharka 135Banthanti 130, 131bargaining 331Barun Glacier 232Basantpur 247bathrooms 335Bayeli 135, 136bears 316beer 330-1begging 34Beni 288Beni to Dolpo Trek

269-75, 270Benkar 72Bera Goth 207Besi Sahar 144, 194Beti 261Bhaktapur 48Bhandar 108Bhara 253Bharha Chuli 134bhattis 325-6Bhena 187

Bheri Kharka 139Bheteni 229Bhote Kosi Valley 103-4Bhotia people 308-9Bhratang 151Bhulbule (Annapurna

region) 146Bhulbule (western Nepal)

254Bibre 84bicycle travel 342Bimtang 216Biratnagar 246birds 317-18Birethanti 129, 144, 193-4blue sheep 250, 317Bodhnath Stupa 49Bonington, Chris 82, 142books 290, 292-3

birds 318culture 267, 311eastern Nepal 220Everest region 90health 347history 296, 298, 301,

302, 303Humla 278Mustang 183plants 319trekking peaks 35western Nepal 251

border crossings 339-40Boukreev, Anatoli 142Brabal 201Bragha 155Buddha Jayanti 65Buddhism 267, 311budget 16-17, see also costsBung 225Bupsa 115, 116bus travel 17, 343business hours 332

Ccamping 326camping treks 23, 26

362

IND

EX C- E

car travel 17, 343-4caste 306caves

Chungsi Caves 186Hulaki Odar 175Luri Gompa 191Milarepa’s Cave 156,

157, 215Ney Guru Sang Phuk 155

cell phones 16, 334-5Chabarbu 161Chachalung 227Chachera 281Chame 151Chamje 148Charakot 225charities 34, 255Chatrapati 235Chauki 234Chaurikharka 116Chaurikot 259chautaara 312Chautha 253-4Chele 186-7Chepka 263Cheplung 68-9Cheplung (Taktag) Gompa

69Chere 255Chewabas 115Chhairo 167chhang 330Chhayo 171Chhetri people 312Chhomrong 131, 139,

140, 143Chhorkhung 73Chhuksang 186, 192Chhukung 84-6, 100Chhukung Ri 85Chhule 104Chhungar 192Chhuthawa 71Chhyantu 272children, travel with 326-7Chimang 167Chimbu 108China, relations with 291Chipling 208, 210Chirwa 235-6Chisopani 208, 209Chitre (Annapurna region)

133, 174Chitre (eastern Nepal) 243Cho La 97, 102

Cho Phu 276Chogo La 191Chongar viewpoint 156Choprang Gompa 190chortens 309, see also

stupasChosar 190Chotra 259Chulu East 141Chulu West 141Chumoa 72Chunemba 276Chungsi Caves 186Chure Hills 315Chyakhu 177Chyaksadanda 230Chyawabesi 228Chyugur Khola 266cinema 90, 183, 198, 251,

290climate 16, 21-3, 16, see

also individual regionsclimate change 315, 340clothing 36-7, 38conservation areas,

see national parks & conservation areas

consulates 328costs 16-17

accommodation 324, 326

food 329crime 41-2Crystal Mountain School

267culture 306-13currency 16, 331customs regulations 327cycle-rickshaws 344cycling 342

DDagchu 109Dagin 260Dajok Tang 268Dana 173Danaque 150Danda Kharka 231dangers, see safetyDanphe Lagna Camp 252Darbang 271Dasain 22Debuche 79Debuche Nunnery 79deer 317deforestation 320demonstrations 334Deng 214

Deorali (Annapurna region) 139

Deorali (Annapurna Sanctuary) 141

Deorali (Gosainkund) 207Desio, Ardito 86Deurali 105Dhagarjun 285-6Dhampus 138Dhan Kharka 134, 135Dharamsala (Limi Valley)

279, 281Dharamsala (Manasulu)

215Dharamsala (Nar-Phu) 176Dharan 246Dharapani (Annapurna

region) 150Dharapani (Manaslu) 216Dharapani (western Nepal)

271Dharapuri 279Dhaulagiri 170Dhaulagiri Icefall 170Dhaulagiri Trek 286Dhobane 228Dhorpatan 272Dhorpatan Hunting

Reserve 272Dhotu 254Dhukur Pokhari 152-3Dhule 273, 274Dhunche 216diarrhoea 349difficulty levels 24Dingboche 83-4, 86, 89-90disasters 41diseases, see health,

individual diseasesDo Tarap 15, 266-7, 15Doban 138, 140, 143Dobato (Annapurna region)

136Dobato (eastern Nepal) 136Dobhan 235Dochal Ghara 259documents 31-3Dole 93Dolpo 255-75, 256-7

Beni to Dolpo Trek 269-75, 270

Dolpopa people 309Dorje Phurba Gompa 267Draglung Gompa 268Drakmar 191, 192drinks 330-1

language 353seabuckthorn juice 157tongba 233water 150, 348

driving 17, 343-4duffle bags 37-8Dudh Kosi 70-1Dudh Kunda 110, 114, 116Dudh Kunda-Pikey Cultural

Trail 116Dudh Pokhari 95, 96Dughla 86Dumje 65-6Dunai 261, 287-8Dunai Trek, Jumla to 258-61Durbar Square 48-9Dusa 86Dzonglha 102

Eearthquake damage

Annapurna region 132, 182

eastern Nepal 221Everest region 64, 105Kathmandu 48Langtang, Helambu &

Manaslu 198, 199safety warning

stickers 53western Nepal 250

earthquakes 41, 314-15eastern Nepal 44, 218-

47, 219accommodation 218books 220climate 218earthquake damage 221highlights 219maps 219permits 220, 221, 229planning 218, 220towns & facilities 245-70transport to/from 220travel seasons 218trekking peaks 220views 218

ecology, see environmenteconomy 290-1electricity 55, 327-8embassies 328, 329emergencies 42, see also

health, safetyHimalayan Rescue Asso-

ciation 31, 83, 156language 353

entrance fees & permits 31-3, 34-5, 61

Annapurna region 127Dolpo 258eastern Nepal 220,

221, 229Everest region 67

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

363IN

DEX E- H

Helambu 198Humla 278inner Dolpo 275Kanchenjunga 233Kathmandu 61Langtang 198Manaslu region 198, 211Mustang 183Nar-Phu 175national parks &

conservation areas 33, 319

Rara 252Shivalaya 119

environment 314-22, see also individual regions

environmental issues 320-2

equipment 36, 37-9buying in Nepal 39, 58hire 39

etiquette, cultural 306, 307events, see festivals &

eventsEverest Base Camp Trek 11,

68-91, 69, 80-1, 11Everest region 43, 62-123,

63accommodation 64-5, 66altitude sickness 68books 90climate 62earthquake damage 64electricity 65environment 64extreme sports 88festivals 65-6films 90guides & porters 66highlights 63maps 66medical facilities 66-7permits & regulations 67planning 62, 64-7route options 67Sherpa villages 62, 76-7supplies & equipment 67towns & facilities 67,

117-23travel seasons 62, 65travel to/from 67trekking peaks 85

Ev-K2-CNR research station 86

exchange rates 17

Ffees, see entrance fees &

permits

festivals & events 22Buddha Jayanti 65Dumje 65-6Gyalpo Losar 65Kathmandu 52Mani Rimdu 65Tiji 184, 19

films 90, 183, 198, 251, 290first-aid kit 21, 346fitness 23floods 315, 320flora, see plantsfood 328-31

Kathmandu 46, 54-6language 353

footwear 37frostbite 352Fukang Glacier 215

GGaikharka 224Gakar 267Galeshor (Galeshwar) 135Ganja La Trek 204-5, 204Gekye Gompa 205Geling 187geology 314-16Ghachok Trek 128, 128Ghandruk 132-3, 143Ghandruk Loop 128, 128Ghap 215Ghar Gompa 191Ghasa 173Ghat 70Ghemi 187Ghermu 148Ghorepani 130-1, 133,

138, 173Ghunsa 238-9Ghurchi Lagna 254Ghurchi Mara 254Ghurjung 143Ghustung 273Ghyaru 154giardiasis 349glaciers

Barun Glacier 232Fukang Glacier 215Kagmara Glacier 262Khumbu Glacier 87Ngozumpa Glacier 91Yalung Glacier 244

goats 317Gokyo 95, 96, 97, 103,

95, 12Gokyo Ri 96, 19Gokyo Trek 91-7, 95Golphu Bhanjyang 207-8

Gomlha 71gompas & monasteries 311

Bragha Gompa 155Cheplung (Taktag)

Gompa 69Chhandul (Sandul)

Gompa 266Chhyonkhar Gompa 162Choprang Gompa 190Dorje Phurba Gompa 267Doro Gompa 267Draglung Gompa 268Gekye Gompa 205Ghar Gompa 191Jampa Lhakhang 189Jharkot 163Kagyud Gompa 157Karki Gompa 157Katsapterenga Gompa

166Khari Gompa 74Khiraule Gompa 225Khumjung gompa 76Khunde Tsamkhang 76Kyanjin Gompa 202, 205Lawudo Gompa 74Lo Manthang 189-90Luri Gompa 191Mekyem Gompa 267Muktinath 162Namche Gompa 119-20Namka Khyung Dzong

Gompa 285Pangboche (Pal Rilbu)

Gompa 79Pangum Gompa 224Pema Choling Gompa 71Pema Namding Gompa

114Phortse Gompa 97Praken Gompa 157Ribo Bhumpa Gompa

267Rinzin Ling Gompa 282Samtenling Gompa

(Tashi Lhakhang) 167Serlo Gompa 110Sherin Gompa 268Shipchok Gompa 267Sibuje gompa 224Sing Gompa 207Tashi Lhakhang Gompa

178Tashi Thongmon Gompa

111Tengboche Gompa 78Tengboche Monastery 78Thame Gompa 75Thasung Chholing

Gompa 264

Thekchen Rabgyeling Gompa 262

Thubten Chholing 110Tsarang 188

Gopte 207Gorak Shep 87Gorkha 217Gorosingha 254Gosainkund 205-8, 206Gothe Bazaar 228Gothi Chaur 259Goyom 109Great Himalayan Trail 239group trekkers 23Gudel 226Guerrilla Trek 286guides & porters 23, 26-8Gulbang 273Gumma Yok 282Gunsang 159Gupa Pokhari 235Gurja 235Gurjakot 272Guru Rinpoche 75, 81,

210, 267Gurung people 311Gyabla 238Gyalpo Losar (Tibetan New

Year) 22, 65Gyasumdo 149Gyazumba Tsho 96

HHalji 282Hanuman Dhoka 49hashish 331health 345-51

altitude sickness 41, 349-51

books 347emergency treatments

347first-aid kit 21, 346insurance 345internet resources 347language 353-4vaccinations 345-6water 150, 348

Helambu 208-10, see also Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu

Helambu Circuit Trek 208-10, 209

helicopter rides 342hepatitis 347Herzog, Maurice 142Hile 246-7Hillary, Edmund 76, 82, 231

364

IND

EX H-L

Hillary Memorial Viewpoint 76

Hille 130Hilsa 283Hima 273Himal Qu 139, 143Himalayan Hotel 141, 143Himalayan Rescue

Association 31, 83, 156Hinduism 394, 395Hinku Cave 141Hinku Valley 226Hiran Duski 252history 292-305

Kiratis 294Licchavis 295Mallas 295-7People’s War 301-2prodemocracy protests

300-1Ranas 298-9Thakuris 295unification under Shahs

297-8Hiunchuli 140, 141HIV 347-8holidays 333-4homestays 135, 203Hongde 156horse riding 184hot springs 173

Chame 151Jagat 148Jhinu Danda 140Kermi 281Tatopani (Annapurna

region) 173Tatopani (western Nepal)

270, 273hotels, see accommodationHRA, see Himalayan

Rescue Association human trafficking 312Hulaki Odar 175Humla 277-85Hwaka 227

IIce Lake 157Ilam 247Illing Lagna 284immigration 337immunisations 345-6independent treks 23

information organisations 31

inner Dolpo 14, 275-7, 14insurance

health 345porters 28rescue 331travel 331vehicle 344

internet access 331internet resources 17

air tickets 339airlines 338, 341birdwatching 318environment 320health 347

Isharu 136Island Peak Base Camp 85Italian Pyramid 86itineraries, see individual

regions

JJagat (Annapurna region)

148Jagat (Manaslu) 214Jaljala Chaur 255Jampa Lhakhang 189Janai Purnima 22, 96Jang 282Jannu 238Jaubari 227Jharkot 163Jhinu Danda 139-40, 143Jhong 162-3Jhunam 177Jiri 117Jomsom 160, 164, 165, 166,

194-5Jorsale 72-3Jubing 114Julu (Chullu) 155Jumla 252, 258-9, 287Jumla to Dunai Trek

258-61, 256Junbesi 110Juphal 260

KKabra 253Kagbeni 163-4, 184, 192Kageni 263Kagmara Glacier 262Kagmara La Trek 261-2,

256Kagmara Phedi 261Kaigaon 260Kali Gandaki 166-8, 170-1

Kali Gandaki Valley 160Kalopani 172Kanchenjunga 14, 233-44,

236-7, 14Kanchenjunga North Trek

235-41, 236-7Kanchenjunga South Trek

241-4, 236-7Kang Gopa 276Kang La 179-80Kang La Phedi 179Kanigaon (Annapurna

region) 148Kanigaon (western Nepal)

266Karte 149Kartike Pul 228Kathmandu 46-61, 47,

51, 56-7accommodation 46, 52-4activities 50climate 46drinking 56-7earthquake damage 48emergencies 58festivals & events 52food 46, 54-6highlights 47history 48information 58-60itineraries 54medical services 58-9nightlife 56-7permits 61planning information 46safety 59shopping 58sights 48-50tours 50travel seasons 46travel to/from 60-1travel within 61

Kathmandu Environmental Education Project 31

Katsapterenga Gompa 166Kawaguchi, Ekai 167, 292Keldang 205Kermi 281Khaim 273Khambachen 239Khandbari 245Khangsar 157-8Khari 115Khari Gompa 74Kharte 221Khasrubas 105Khayer Lake 135Khesewa 242Khingar 163

Khiraule Gompa 225Khopra Danda 135Khopra Ridge 135Khopra Ridge Trek 133-6,

134Khotro 149Khudi 144Khumbila 74Khumbu Climbing Center

97Khumbu Glacier 87Khumjung 76Khunde 76Khyang 177Kimche 143Kimrong 143Kirati people 311Konar 97Kongma La 100-2Konjo 171Kothe 226Koto 151, 175Kumrong Danda 143Kunjari 242Kyangjuma 77Kyanjin Gompa 202, 205

LLaini 266Laisicap 265lakes

Angladumba Tsho 103Birendra Tal 215Cholatse Tsho 89-90Dhumba Lake 166Dudh Kunda 110, 114, 116Dudh Pokhari 95, 96Gosainkund 207Gyazumba Tsho 96Ice Lake 157Khayer Lake 135Longponga Tsho 95Ngozumba Tsho 96Phoksumdo Lake 264-5,

269, 275-6Rara Lake 254Relama Tsho 103Sacred Lakes 96-7Sekung Lake 170Selima Tso 281Taujung Tsho 95Thonak Tsho 96Tilicho Tal 157, 158, 160Titi Lake 171Tshom Tso 281

Lali Kharka 242Lamo Pokhari 235Landruk 139

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

365IN

DEX L- N

landslides 41Langmale Kharka 232Langshisha Kharka 203Langtang, Helambu &

Manaslu 44, 196-217, 197accommodation 198climate 196earthquake damage

198, 199films 198permits & regulations

198, 211planning 198towns & facilities

216-217travel seasons 196travel to/from 198

Langtang Valley 199-208Langtang Valley Trek

199-203, 200-1language 16, 352-8Lapsang 244Lar Tsa 276Larjung 168-9, 170Laurebina Yak 207Lawan 265Lawichasa 78leeches 336legal matters 331Lelep 238leopards 316Letdar 159, 160Lete 172Lhabarma 93Lho 215Lhonak 240Limbu people 310-11Limbu villages 242Limi bowls 283Limi Valley Trek 279-85,

280Linkhim 241Lissannivich, Boris 293literature, see booksLo Manthang 188-90load shedding 55Loba people 182Lobuche 86-7, 89lodges 324-5Lubra 164Lukla 68, 91, 92, 97, 100,

117-18, 220-1Lukla to Tumlingtar Trek

220-9, 222-3Lumbang 230Lumde 103, 104Lumsum 271-2Luri Gompa 191Luza 93

MMachha Khola 214Machhapuchhare 140Machhapuchhare Base

Camp 138, 141Machhermo 85, 94Machim 271Magar people 312magazines 327Makalu 220-33Makalu-Barun National

Park 85, 226, 229Makalu Base Camp 232Makalu Base Camp Trek

229-33, 222-3malaria 348Mamanke 242Manang 154, 155-7, 159Manaslu 44, see also

Langtang, Helambu & Manaslu

Manaslu Trek 15, 211-16, 212-13, 15

Manaslu Himal 211-16Manepene 283Mani Rimdu 22, 65mani walls 187maps 31, 35, see also Treks

subindex for trek mapsAnnapurna region 127eastern Nepal 219Everest region 66Humla 278inner Dolpo 275Manaslu 211Mustang 183Nar-Phu 174western Nepal 250

Mardi Himal 141Marduwa 228marijuana 251, 331Marpha 166-7Masigaon 279Matthiessen, Peter 269measures 327medical services 42, 347,

see also health, individ-ual locations

Kathmandu 58-9Everest 66, 123Western Nepal 250, 278

Melamchi Ghyang 210Mende 74Mendok Ding 276Meshar Danda 136Meta 177Milarepa’s Cave 156,

157, 215Milinggo 79

Mitlung 235mobile phones 16, 334-5Modi Gorge 136Modi Khola 138Mohare Danda 135monasteries, see gompas

& monasteriesmoney 16, 331-3

safety 42moneychangers 332Mong La 92Monjo 72monkeys 317Mopung 110Moreni 272motorcycle travel 343-4mountaineering 34-5mountains & peaks 141

Ama Dablam 83, 102Bokta 220Boktoh 244Chhukung Ri 85Everest 89Ghat 70Gokyo Ri 96, 19Hongku Chuli 232Island Peak 85Jannu 238Kailash 284Khumbila 74Kongma Tse 85, 101-3Kusum Kangru 70, 85Kwangde 85Kyajo Ri 85Lobuche East 85Machhermo 85Mera Peak 226Naya Kangri 203Numbur 110Pharilapche 85Pokhalde 85Sunder Peak 75Yala Peak 203

movies 90, 183, 198, 251, 290

Moving Mountains Trust 115

Muchu 284Muktinath 161, 162, 164Muna 271Mungji 155Muni Sangu 259museums

Gurung Traditional Museum 132

Hanuman Dhoka 49International Mountain

Museum 192Manang Cultural

Museum 157Mustang Eco Museum

194Narayanhiti Palace

Museum 50Nauche Gonda Visitor

Centre 120Sagarmatha National

Park Visitor Centre 120

Sherpa Culture Museum 120

Mushe 116Mustang 13, 180-92, 12

accommodation 184books 183earthquake damage 182emergencies 183festivals 184films 183geography 181-2history 180-1maps 183people & culture 182permits 183planning 183-4religion 182-3travel to/from 184

Mustang Trek 184-92, 185Myabrak 163

NNajingdingma 224-5Namche Bazaar 73-7, 91,

92, 97, 119-23, 74, 120-1

names 308Namgyal 190Namrung 215Nangathanti 130Nangi 135Nangkartshang

Hermitage 84Naphukana 259Nar 179Nar Phedi 179Nar-Phu 174-80Nar-Phu Trek 175-84, 176national parks &

conservation areas 33, 318-19

Annapurna Conservation Area 154

Api Nampa Conservation Area 285

Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve 272

Khaptad National Park 285

366

IND

EX N- S

national parks & conservation areas continued

Makalu-Barun National Park 85, 226, 229

Rara National Park 251-5Sagarmatha National

Park 72, 120, 122Shey Phoksumdo

National Park 262Nawarpani 266Naya Pul 129, 144, 174,

193-4Nepal basics 16-17Nepalganj 286-7Nepali language 352-8Newar people 311newspapers 327Ney Guru Sang Phuk 155Ngadi 146Ngawal 154, 180-79Nghe Kharka 232Ngozumpa Glacier 91Ngozumba Ri 96Nha 97Numa La Base Camp

267, 268Numbur Cheese Circuit 116Nunthala 114Nyalu Lagna 281Nyi La 187, 192

OOkarpata 255online resources, see

internet resourcesopening hours 332organised treks & climbs

23, 28-31, 35Orsho 81outdoor equipment,

see clothing, equipment

PPadmara 252Pahar zone 315Paiya 115, 221Palam 263Panchase Trek 128, 128Pang Pema 240Pangboche 79Pangjung 71Pangka 95Pangoma 114Pangum 221

passesAmphu Lapcha 85Baga La 268Balangra La 260Cho La 97, 102Danphe Lagna 252Ghungru La 231Ghurchi Lagna 254Jaljala La 272Kagmara La 261, 262Kang La 179-80Keke La 231Khari La 115, 221Kongma La 97, 100-2Lakya La 215Mauri Lagna 259Meso Kanto La 160Nara La 284Numa La 268Nyi La 187, 192Pangum La 224Phagune Dhuri 272-3Renjo La 97, 103Salpa Pass 227Shipton La 231Shyangmochen La 187Surke La 225Thorung La 149, 161, 164Thorung Phedi 160, 161Trakshindu La 114

passports 337Pathibhara & Limbu

Cultural Trail 245Pattyata Lagna 259Paungda Danda 151Peak of Terror 238peak trekking 34-5Pelung Tang 268Pema Choling Gompa 71people 306-13

Bahun 312Bhotia 308-9Chhetri 312Dolpopa 309Gurung 311Kirati 311Limbu 310-11Loba 182Magar 312Newar 311Rai 310-11Sherpa 77, 120, 310Tamang 309Thakali 309Tibetan 309-10Yolmo 208

permits, see entrance fees & permits

Phakding 71Phalate 133, 174Phedi (Annapurna region)

133, 138Phedi (eastern Nepal)

227-8Phedi (western Nepal) 271Pheriche 82-3, 84, 86,

89-90Phoksumdo Lake 262-5,

269, 275-7Phoksumdo Lake to Shey

Gompa Trek 275-7Phoksumdo Lake Trek

262-4Phoksumdo Lake via Do

Tarap Trek 264-9Phole 238Phortse 90, 97Phortse Thenga 92photography 333Phu 177-8Phu region, see Nar-PhuPhugmocche 110Phulaji Kala 86Phuleli 114Phumphe 242Phunki Thenga 78Phurte 74Phurteng 111phuru 283Phurumbu 241Pisang, Lower 153Pisang Peak 141Pisang, Upper 154planning 21-35, 36-9, see

also internet resources, individual regions

budgeting 16-17clothing 36, 36-7, 38documents 31-3equipment 36, 37-9essentials 21fees 31-3guides & porters 23,

26-8information

organisations 31maps 31, 35Nepal basics 16-17permits 34-5safety 40-2travel seasons 16-17trek descriptions 27trekking regions 43-4when to trek 21-3, 24

plants 318, 319poaching 321Pokhara 143, 192-3, 126

short treks 128, 128

Polenza, Agostino da 86politics 290-1Poon Hill 131, 138population 291porters 23, 26-8postal services 333Pothana 139prayer flags 58, 310prayer wheels 310public holidays 333-4Pun, Mahabir 135Pungmo 262Pungyen 215

Rrabies 348Rai people 310-11rakshi 330Ramche 244Ranipauwa (Annapurna

region) 161-3Ranipauwa (Humla) 284Rara Lake Trek 251-5, 253Rara National Park 251-5recycling 84religion 291

animism 311Buddhism 267, 311Hinduism 394, 395

religious sites 18, see also gompas & monasteries

Renje 263responsible trekking 34restricted areas, see

entrance fees & permitsRimi 260Rimijung 71Ringmo (Annapurna

region) 111Ringmo (western Nepal)

264, 269Roberts, Jimmy 142, 293Roop Gaad 261

Ssafety 40-2, 334, see

also earthquake damage

airlines 341-2earthquake warning

stickers 53electricity cuts 55Kathmandu 59scams 334travel warnings 329yaks 72

Saga Dawa 22Sagarmatha National Park

72, 120, 122

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

367IN

DEX S

- VSahar Tara 274-5Sahardara 271Saipal Base Camp Trek 286Sakathum 238saligrams 166Salung 111Sama 215Samar 187Samdo 215Samshing 74Sanam 227Sangbadanda 105Sankta 263scams 334Schalle, George B 269Scoundrel’s Viewpoint 96seasons 21-3, 24, see

also individual regionsSeduwa 230Seng Khola 274Serkam 266Sete 108-9Share 227sheep caravans 278Sherpa people 77sherpas 77, 120, 310Sherpa villages

Gyabla 238Sibuje 224

Shey Gompa to Jomsom Trek 285-6

Shikha 174-3Shingjungma 281Shipton, Eric 231Shivalaya 119Shivalaya to Lukla Trek

104-16, 106-7, 112-13Shomare 81Shree Kharka 158Shyangboche 76Shyangmochen 187, 192Sibuje 224Simikot 279, 285, 288Sinchebu Bhanjyang 242Singu Chuli 141Sinja 255Sinuwa 140Sinwa 235Sishul Khola 266Sisnamul 252sleeping bags 39Snellgrove, David 267Snow Leopard, The 269snow leopards 316, 317Somde 75Stones of Silence 269stoves 39strikes 334

stupas 309Bodhnath Stupa 49Hillary Memorial

Stupa 77Kathesimbhu Stupa 49Namche Stupa 119Swayambhunath Stupa

52Suketar 235, 244Suli Gaad 263Sumduwa 262, 263Sumnag Cave 104Sundarijal 217Sunder Peak 75Surkhe 115Swanta 133, 135Syabrubesi 201, 203,

216-17Syang 166Syange 148Syauli Bazaar 144

TTadapani 131, 132, 136, 143Taglung 140Tagnag 102Takur valley 273Tal 149Tal Besi 149Tal Tole 266Tallo Phedi 228Tamang Heritage Trail

203, 202Tamang people 309Tangbe 186-4Tapethok 238Taplejung 235, 247Tapriza Cultural School

263Tara Khet 270Tarakot 265, 275Tarke Ghyang 205Tarnga 104Tashigaon 230-1Tashinga 78Tatopani (Annapurna

region) 173Tatopani (western Nepal)

270, 273Tawa 241taxes 332-3taxis 344teahouse trekking 23,

324-5teashops 325-6Telekhu 151telephone services 16,

334-5Tembewa 242

temples, see gompas & monasteries

Tendor 228Tengboche 78-9Tengboche Gompa 78Tengboche Monastery 78Tengi 159tents 38-9Tesho 74Thabla Kharka 135Thadokoshi 70Thagnak 226Thakali people 309Thame 73-4, 75, 104Thamel 52-4, 56-7Thamo 74Thanchowk 151Thangtong Gyalpo 75Tharamara 252Thare 97Tharepati 207, 210Tharpu Chuli 141theft 42Thimbu 210, 217Thini 166Thomde 74Thore 97Thorung La 149, 161, 164Thorung Phedi 160, 161Three Passes Trek 13, 97-

104, 98-9Thulo Bharkhu 201, 203,

217Thulo Phokte 227Thumbuk 110Thumma 235Thyangbo 75Tibetan Buddhism 311Tibetan culture 20, 311Tibetan people 309-10Tibrikot 260Tihar 22Tiji Festival 22, 184, 19Tikhedhunga 130Til 283Tilicho Base Camp Hotel

158, 159Tilicho Tal 157, 158, 160Tilman, HW (Bill) 82,

226, 293Timang 151Timbu 114time 16, 335, 354TIMS card 31-3, 61tipping 333Toijem 261toilets 335Toktok 72Tolka 133, 139

tongba 233Torontan 243tourism 291, 322Trans-Himalayan

Highway 181trans-Himalayan trade 301travel seasons 16-17travel to/from Nepal

337-40travel within Nepal 340-4

language 354-5trek ratings 17trekking 23-31, 24-5, see

also entrance fees & permits, Treks subindex

agencies 30-1, 35base camp views 20camping 23, 26community trails 135descriptions 27difficulty levels 24environmental issues 321high passes 20history 292-3independent 23insurance 331language 355lodges 23, 324-5low-altitude treks 18mountaineering 34-5organised treks 23,

28-31, 35peaks 34-5, 141Pokhara area 128, 128remote treks 20

Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal 31

trekking lodges 23, 324-5Trokpi Kharka 224Tsarang 188Tukuche 168Tumkot 284Tumlingtar 229, 245

UUlleri 130Unshisha 231Upper Khangsar 158Uthugaon 252

Vvacations 333-4vaccinations 345-6vegetarian travellers 330viewpoints 18, 20village culture 19visas 16, 60, 335-6volunteering 34

368

IND

EX TR

EK

S

Wwater 150, 348Watha 243weather, see climateweights 327western Nepal 44, 248-88,

249accommodation 251architecture 248books 251climate 248culture 248earthquake damage 250emergencies 250environment 250highlights 249history 249-50maps 250movies 251planning 248, 250-1porters 251towns & facilities 286-8travel to/from 251travel seasons 248views 248

wi-fi 331

wildlife 316-18wildlife reserves 318-19wolves 316women in Nepal 312-13women trekkers 42, 336

YYak Kharka 159yaks 72, 96Yalbang 285Yalung Bara 243Yalung Glacier 244Yamphudin 242Yangle Kharka 231-3Yangpang 242Yari 284yartse gumpa 269yetis 18, 82Yolmo people 208

ZZamfute 71Zarok 76

TREKSAnnapurna Circuit 11, 144-

75, 10-11, 145, 152-3, 165, 172

Annapurna Dhaulagiri Com-munity Trail 135, 134

Annapurna Panorama 129-33, 130

Annapurna Sanctuary 13, 131, 136-44, 137, 13

Around Dhaulagiri 286Around Manaslu 15, 211-16,

212-13, 15Beni to Dolpo 269-75, 270Dudh Kunda-Pikey Cultural

Trail 116Everest Base Camp 11,

68-91, 69, 80, 11Ganja La 204-5, 204Ghachok 128, 128Ghandruk Loop 128, 128Gokyo 91-7, 95Gosainkund 205-8, 206Guerrilla 286Helambu Circuit 208-10,

209Jumla to Dunai 258-61Kagmara La 261-2Kanchenjunga North 235-

41, 236-7

Kanchenjunga South 241-4, 236-7

Khopra Ridge 133-6, 134Langtang Valley 199-203,

200-1Limi Valley 279-85, 280Lukla to Tumlingtar 220-9,

222-3Makalu Base Camp 229-33,

222-3Mustang 184-92, 185Nar-Phu 175-84, 176Numbur Cheese Circuit 116Panchase 128, 128Pathibhara & Limbu

Cultural Trail 245Phoksumdo Lake 262-4Phoksumdo Lake to Shey

Gompa Trek 275-7Phoksumdo Lake via Do

Tarap 264-9Rara Lake 251-5, 253Saipal Base Camp 286Shey Gompa to Jomsom

285-6Shivalaya to Lukla 104-16,

106-7, 112-13Tamang Heritage Trail

203, 202Three Passes Trek 13, 97-

104, 98-9

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

369N

OTES

370

NO

TES

371N

OTES

372

NO

TES

373N

OTES

374

NO

TES

375

Alternative Trekking RouteTrekking Route

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – Jan 2016ISBN 978 1 74179 272 0© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSBradley MayhewCoordinating author; Kathmandu; Everest Region; Langtang, Helambu & Manas-lu; Eastern Nepal A self-professed mountain junkie, Bradley has been trekking in the Himalayas for 20 years now, from north Pakistan and Zanskar to Tibet and Bhutan. For previous editions of this guide he’s trekked in Nar-Phu, Dolpo, Langtang and the Annapurnas. For this edition he concentrated on the Everest region and Manaslu. Bradley is also the coordinating author of Lonely Planet

guides to Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, and Central Asia, as well as the Odyssey guide to Uzbekistan. He has lectured on Central Asia to the Royal Geographical Society and was the subject of two Arte/SWR documentary series, one retracing the route of Marco Polo, the other hiking Europe’s ten best long-distance trails. See what he’s currently up to at www.bradleymayhew.blogspot.com.

Lindsay BrownAnnapurna Region; Western Nepal The Nepal Himalaya is a favourite destination for Lindsay, a keen trekker and former conservation biologist. Lindsay first visit-ed Nepal over 25 years ago and has spent the last decade or so regularly visiting the country to hit the trails. He has trekked, jeeped, ridden and stumbled across many a mountain pass while contributing to Lonely Planet’s Bhutan, India,

Nepal, and Pakistan & the Karakoram Highway guides, among many others.

Stuart ButlerLangtang, Helambu & Manaslu; Eastern Nepal Stuart first travelled to Nepal over twenty years ago and has been a frequent visitor to both Nepal and the greater Himalaya region ever since. From the far north of Norway to the moun-tains of Yemen and the forests of the Congo, he has walked in many mountain and wilderness areas around the world. Today he lives with his wife and young

son and daughter on the beaches of southwest France, right at the foot of the beautiful Pyrenees mountains. He’s the author of Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Spain guide. His website is www.stuart butlerjournalist.com.

Read more about Stuart at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’