689689

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Andrzej Januszewski, Annelise Bak C Chris Keegan, Colin Saunderson, Courtney Shucker D Denis O’Sullivan J Jack Clancy, Jacob Harris, Jane Barrett, Joe O’Brien, John Devitt, Joyce Taylor, Juliette Tirard-Collet K Karen Boss, Katrin Riegelnegg L Laura Teece, Lavin Graviss, Luc Tétreault M Marguerite Harber, Marilyn Helterline, Martin Coyle, Mic Porter, Michael Kischner, Michelle Coen, Miranda Keating O Orla Dolan P Paul Grayhurst R Robyn Spurdle, Ruth Yanor S Sam Dieterle, Samantha Corrigan W Wayne Harber

AUTHOR THANKS Fionn DavenportThanks to my editor at Lonely Planet and all those who worked on the guide. A huge thanks to Laura, who’s the best support team any guidebook author could hope for.

Damian HarperBig thanks to Declan in Limerick, Gerard Mad-den, the reception staff at Rockwell College,

Anthony Sheehy, Mike at the Hunt Museum, Steve Whitfield, Stevie Winder, Ann in Galway, the anonymous farmer who pointed the way to Knockgraffon Motte and all the truly delightful people I met on the road who brought sunshine to the wettest of Irish days. Thanks also, as always, to Daisy, Tim and Emma.

Catherine Le NevezSláinte first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism professionals en route for insights, information and great craic. Thanks especially to Victoria Moore at Translink, Gerry, Tricia, Inez and fam-ily in County Antrim, and Laura, Peter and all in Belfast. Huge thanks also to DE James Smart, Neil Wilson for Northern Ireland tips and every-one at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesLike a conversation over nothing in particular in an Irish pub, thanks to those who helped me on this book threaten to go on and on and on… But a few: Charley Adley was a friend and muse as always; Angela Cullen introduced me to all things Donegal and turned me on to obscure author Mike Hunt; and golden thanks to my big plum in the Big Apple, Alexis.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

690

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Neil WilsonThanks to the friendly and helpful tourist office staff in Cork, Waterford, Wexford, Kilkenny and Killarney; to Sean at Glengarriff and to Moira and Hillary at Fleming’s White Bridge in Killarney; to Cathal and Damian at Lough Hyne; and, as ever, to Carol Downie. Thanks also to James and the editorial team at Lonely Planet.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Illustrations pp68-9, pp142-3 by Javier Zarracina; pp312-13 by Michael Weldon.

Cover photograph: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Causeway Coast Chris Hill/Alamy.

THIS BOOK This 12th edition of Lonely Planet’s Ireland guidebook was researched and written by Fionn Davenport, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Neil Wilson. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor James Smart Product Editors Kate Chapman, Bruce Evans Regional Senior Cartog-rapher Mark Griffiths Book Designer Wendy Wright Assisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Imogen Bannister, Bridget Blair, Kate Evans, Sam Forge, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Rosie Nicholson, Erin Richards

Assisting Cartographer Rachel Imeson Assisting Book Designer Virginia Moreno Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Gemma Graham, Andi Jones, Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Alison Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan, Vicky Smith, Lauren Wellicome, Tracy Whitmey

691

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1798 Rising 458

AAbbey Island 277Abbeyleix 490-1Abbeyshrule 477accommodation 670-1, see

also individual locationsAchill Island 52activities 28-31, 37-43, see

also individual activitiesAdare 307-9, 318Adrigole 249Aghadoe 260Ahakista 244air travel 678, 680airports 21, 678, 680

Shannon Airport 331-2alcohol 654Allihies 251All-Ireland Finals 31Altamont Gardens 189ancestry, see genealogyAngela’s Ashes 301angling, see fishingAnglo-Irish Treaty 647-50animals 663-4Annagassan 514Annagry 445-6Annascaul 281Antrim Coaster 604Antrim, County 58, 603-19

accommodation 588climate 588food 588highlights 590-1, 590-1

Antrim town 618-19apples 166, 585apps 98Aran Islands 51, 371-82, 376-7

history 371-3information 372travel to/from 372-8

Ardara 442-3Ardfert Cathedral 295Ardgroom 252Ardmore 184-5Ards Peninsula 565-8area codes 21, 676Arigna Miners Way &

Historical Trail 475Armagh city 583-6Armagh, County 58, 583-7,

584accommodation 562climate 562food 562highlights 563, 563

Arranmore Island 446art galleries, see galleriesAskeaton 306Athenry 394-5Athlone 477-9ATMs 343, 674Aughnanure Castle 383Aughris Head 426Avoca 152-3

BBallard Bay 340Ballina (Clare) 333-4Ballina (Mayo) 415-16Ballingarry 309Ballintemple 449Ballintoy 608-9, 611, 610-11Ballitore 157ballooning 508Ballybunion 296Ballycastle (Antrim) 612-13Ballycastle (Mayo) 414Ballyconnell 523Ballyhack 167Ballyhenry Island 566Ballyjamesduff 522Ballyknocken House 149Ballyliffin 462Ballymaloe House 225Ballymastocker Beach 459Ballymena 619

Ballymote 423-6Ballyquintin Point 566Ballyshannon 436-7Ballyvaughan 354-5Baltimore 238-9Banagher 485-6Banba’s Crown 463Bangor 564-5banshees 422Bantry 245-7Barleycove Beach 243Barnacle, Nora 362Barrow Way 191Battle of Boyne 500Battle of Kinsale 227Battle of the Boyne 500, 643beachcombing 463beaches

Ballycastle 612Ballymastocker Beach 459Barleycove Beach 243Bundoran Beach 437Carrick Finn Beach 445Clonea Strand 181Connemara 385Coumeenoole Beach 288Culdaff Beach 464Curracloe Beach 165Curran Strand 603-4Cushendun 615Derrynane Beach 277Donegal, County 441Dooks Beach 270Doonalt Beach 441Doughmore Bay 340Fanore Beach 353Fintragh Bay 439Glassillaun Beach 391Hollow Beach 426Inishbofin 390Inisheer 381Kilkee 337Kilmurvey Beach 373Louisburgh 402Magheraroarty Beach 449Malinbeg Beach 441

Mountcharles 438Pollan Strand 462Portstewart Strand 602Rosscarbery Bay 236Rosses Point 421Skellig Ring 275Spanish Point 341Streedagh Beach 429Trá Leitreach 379Trá na Rossan 457Tramore Beach (Donegal)

52, 444, 450Tramore Beach

(Waterford) 180Tullagh Strand 462Waterfoot 616White Park Bay 608White Strand 340Wine Strand 288Woodstown Beach 178Youghal 226

Beara Peninsula 217, 247-52, 247

Beckett, Samuel 81, 90, 621, 659

beer 48, see also breweries, Guinness

Belfast 57, 528-61, 532-3, 542, 550-1

accommodation 547-8activities 543-4children, travel with 539climate 528drinking & nightlife 528,

553-6entertainment 556-7festivals & events 546-7food 528, 548-53highlights 529, 529history 530information 558-9itineraries 531shopping 558-61sights 530-43tours 544-6travel to/from 559-61travel within 561

692

IND

EX B- C

Bell Harbour 356Belleek 631-2Belturbet 522Benbulben 52, 427Bennettsbridge 200-1Bere Island 250bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 133, 240, 293,

663-4, 578Aughris Head 426Baginbun Head 169Carlingford 518Castle Espie Wildfowl

& Wetlands Centre 569, 579

Clare Island 403Lough Muirí 356Rathlin Island 613Skellig Islands 276Tory Island 448

Birr 483-5Black Pigs Dyke 524black pudding 45, 233,

216-17Blacklion 523-4Blackwater River 185, 227Blarney Stone 222Blasket Islands 290-1Blessington 147-8Bloody Foreland 446Bloody Sunday 596Bloomsday 29, 99Boa Island 630-1, 627boat travel 678-9, 680,

679, see also sailingAran Islands 373Ards Peninsula 566Baltimore 238Bere Island 250Blasket Islands 291Clare, County 336, 349Gap of Dunloe 266Howth 133Lough Erne 629, 631Lough Foyle Ferry 601Rose of Innisfree 472Scattery Island 336Tarbert 296Waterford, County 178Wexford, County 178

bodhrán 283, 381Bog of Allen 154-5bogs 154, 663

Clara Bog Nature Reserve 490

Kerry Bog Village Museum 269

Roundstone Bog 387Book of Kells 67, 68, 70books 638, 660, 661

environment 662, 663history 642, 643, 644,

645, 646, 647, 650, 652border crossings 680Borris 190-1boycotts 401Boyle 474-7Boyne, Battle of 500, 643Brandon’s Point 291breweries 48, 83, 218, 281,

350, 543Brow Head 243Brownstown Head 179Brú na Bóinne 15, 495,

498-9, 15budget 21, 23, 678Buncrana 460-1Bundoran 437-8Bunratty 332-3Burren, the 345-56, 346

activities 346travel to/from 347travel within 347

Burren Perfumery & Floral Centre 353

Burtonport 445-6bus travel 678, 680, 682

Causeway Coast 604Bushmills 605-6business hours 675Butlersbridge 521

CCaha Mountains 248Caherciveen 269-71Caherdaniel 273, 275-7Cahir 315-16Camaderry Mountain 146canoeing 42-3, 41

Cavan, County 521Clare, County 342Cork, County 213, 236,

239, 249Donegal, County 436,

445, 459Fermanagh, County 628,

629-30Galway, County 392Kerry, County 277, 292Mayo, County 400Midlands, the 485Waterford, County 181

Cape Clear Island 240-1Cappoquin 185

car travel 680-1Carlingford 517-23Carlow, County 54, 187-92

highlights 160-1, 160-1Carna 386Carndonagh 462-3Carraroe 385Carrauntoohil 38, 267Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

16, 609, 611, 16, 610Carrickfergus 617-18Carrickmacross 526-7Carrick-on-Shannon 468-72Carrick-on-Suir 320-1Carrigaholt 339Carrigart 457Carron 353Carrowkeel 423Carrowmore 421-2Carrowmore Megalithic

Cemetery 17, 421, 17Cashel 310-14Castle Espie Wildfowl &

Wetlands Centre 569, 579, 578

Castlebar 416Castlebellingham 514Castlecomer 206Castledermot 157Castlegregory 287, 291-2Castlemaine 280castles 27, see also forts,

ruins, stately homesAshtown Castle 95Athenry Castle 395Athlone Castle 477Aughnanure Castle 383Ballycarbery Castle 270Ballyhack Castle 167Belfast Castle 543Birr Castle Demesne 483Blarney Castle 222, 235Buncrana Castle 460Bunratty Castle & Folk

Park 332Cabra Castle 523Cahir Castle 315Carrickfergus Castle 617Castle Coole 621Castle Durrow 491Castle Leslie 526Castle Ward Estate 573Charleville Castle 488-9Classiebawn Castle 429Clonony Castle 488Craggaunowen 331Cromwell’s Castle 485Desmond Castle

(Kinsale) 229

Desmond Castle (Askeaton) 306

Desmond Castle (Adare) 307

Donegal Castle 431Doonagore Castle 347Doonbeg Castle 340Dublin Castle 73-5Dundrum Castle 575Dungarvan Castle 181Dunguaire Castle 393-4Dunluce Castle 605Dunsany Castle 506Enniscorthy Castle 171Enniskillen Castle 621Glenarm Castle & Walled

Garden 617Glenveagh Castle 455Howth Castle 132-3Huntington Castle 192Kilkenny Castle 193-4Kinbane Castle 609King John’s Castle

(Carlingford) 518King John’s Castle

(Limerick) 300-1Knappogue Castle &

Walled Garden 331Lea Castle 493Leamanegh Castle 351Leap Castle 483Lismore Castle 186Listowel Castle 296Lynch’s Castle 361Maynooth Castle 153Narrow Water Castle 580Nenagh 321Northburgh Castle 464O’Dea Castle 330Ormond Castle 321Parke’s Castle 472Portaferry Castle 566Rathmullan Castle 458Ross Castle 262Slane Castle 500Trim Castle 506, 502

Castletown House 152Castletownbere 250Castletownshend 236cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCauseway Coast 16, 608-9,

611, 607, 16Causeway Rambler 604Cavan Burren Park 24, 523Cavan, County 57, 520-4

accommodation 494climate 494food 494highlights 496-7, 496-7

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

693IN

DEX C

Cavan town 520-1Cavan Way 524caves

Aillwee Caves 354Crag Cave 295Cushendun 615Doolin Cave 347Dunmore Cave 206Kilkee sea cave 337Marble Arch Caves 633Mitchelstown Caves 316Oweynagat Cave 474Pigeonhole Cave 402Wee House of Malin 463

Céide Fields 414cell phones 20, 676Celts, the 640ceramics 201Charles Fort 229cheese 45, 242, 244,

252, 288Chester Beatty Library 73children, travel with 671-2

Belfast 539Dublin 85

Christianity 640-1Christmas 31churches & cathedrals 84,

see also monasteries & abbeys, ruins

Augustinian Friary 320-1Ballintubber Abbey 416Black Abbey 196Burt Church 459Carlow Cathedral 188Cathedral of Christ the

King 480Christ Church Cathedral

(Dublin) 84-5Christ Church Cathedral

(Waterford) 175Church of the Holy

Trinity 307Cill Cheannannach 379Cill Ghobnait 381Clonca Church & Cross

464Clonmacnoise 486Collegiate Church of St

Nicholas of Myra 361Costello Memorial

Chapel 468Down Cathedral 571Duiske Abbey 205Ennis Friary 324Franciscan Friary

(Rossnowlagh) 436Franciscan Friary

(Clonmel) 317Galway Cathedral 362

Holy Cross Abbey 314-15Holy Cross Church 278Holy Trinity Cathedral 175Holy Trinity Church 320-1Kilfenora Cathedral 350-1Killaloe Cathedral 333Kilmalkedar Church 289Knock Marian Shrine 417Oughtmama 355Parish Church of St

Colman 390Quin Friary 331Reefert Church 141, 144St Aidan’s Cathedral 171St Anne’s Cathedral 535St Anne’s Church 211St Audoen’s Church of

Ireland 86St Brendan’s Catholic

Cathedral 395St Brigid’s Cathedral 156St Canice’s Cathedral

194-5St Carthage’s Cathedral

186St Colman’s Cathedral

224St Columba 509St Columb’s Cathedral

592St Edan’s Cathedral

172-3St Fechin’s Church 481St Fin Barre’s Cathedral

211St Iberius’ Church 159St Kevin’s Kitchen 144St Malachy’s Church 534St Malachy’s Parish

Church 582St Mary’s Cathedral

(Killarney) 255St Mary’s Cathedral

(Limerick) 301, 318St Mary’s Church 144

(Glendalough)St Mary’s Church

(Inishmaan) 379St Mary’s Collegiate

Church 226St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral

91St Michael’s Church 621St Michan’s Church 91-2St Multose Church 229St Patrick’s Cathedral

83-4 (Dublin)St Patrick’s Cathedral

516 (Dundalk)St Patrick’s Cathedral

Church 507

St Patrick’s Church of Ireland Cathedral 583

St Patrick’s Roman Catholic Cathedral 583

St Paul’s Church 485St Peter’s Church of

Ireland 513St Peter’s Roman Catho-

lic Church 513St Saviour’s Church 144Teampall na Naoimh 384Teampall Phádraig 384Unitarian Church 77

cinema 638Civil War 647-8Claddagh rings 370Claddaghduff 389Clara 490Clare, County 19, 55,

322-56, 19accommodation 322climate 322food 322highlights 323, 323traditional music 326

Clare Island 403Clarina 306Clarinbridge 393Cleggan 389-90Clifden 387-9Cliffony 429Cliffs of Magho 632Cliffs of Moher 51, 344-5,

329cruises 347

climate 20, 28-31, 672, see also individual regions

climbing 43, 577clocháns 379Cloghane 291Clogherhead 514Clonakilty 217, 232-6Clonea Strand 181Clonegal 192Clones 525-6Clonmacnoise 486-8,

487, 471Clonmany 462Clonmel 317-20Cloverhill 521-2Cnoc Rathnaí 381coasteering 43, 184, 573Cobh 222-5Collins, Michael 236, 647Coney Island 572Cong 400-2Connemara 11, 382-93,

384-5, 7, 11, 18information 382travel to/from 382

Connor Pass 287, 291, 286consulates 673Cooley Peninsula 517-20Copper Coast 181Corcomroe Abbey 355Cork city 14, 210-21, 212, 14

accommodation 214-15drinking & nightlife

218-19entertainment 219-20festivals & events 213-14food 215-18information 220-1shopping 220sights 210-13tours 213travel to/from 221travel within 221-2

Cork, County 54, 207-52accommodation 207climate 207food 207, 216-17, 223highlights 208-9, 208-9history 210

Corkscrew Hill 354Corlea Trackway 476Corofin 351-2costs 21, 23, 673Coumeenoole Beach 288courses

archaeology 440cooking 149, 182, 225, 543hill walking 440Irish 441-2, 557music 283

Crag Cave 295Crawfordsburn 565credit cards 674Creggan 635Cromane 270Cromwell, Oliver 511, 643Crookhaven 243Crumlin Road Gaol 538crystal 183Cuilcagh Mountain Park 24Culdaff 464culture 638-9, 653-5Curracloe Beach 165Curragh, the 155Curraghmore Estate 178currency 20, 674Cushendall 615-16Cushendun 615customs regulations 672cycling 40-2, 680

Armagh, County 587Clare, County 340, 354Cork, County 229, 244-5,

247, 248

694

IND

EX C-F

cycling continuedDonegal, County 431,

436, 437, 442, 455, 457Dublin 130Fermanagh 621Galway, County 374,

388, 390Kerry 266, 271, 291Kilkenny, County 196, 205Sligo, County 418, 429Waterford, County 186

Ddangers, see safety‘Danny Boy’ 600deer 265, 264-5Delphi 402Derry 19, 589-600, 594, 19

accommodation 597-8drinking & nightlife 599entertainment 599festivals & events 597food 598-9history 589information 600shopping 599-600sights 592-7tours 597travel to/from 600travel within 600walks 593, 593

Derry, County, see Londonderry, County

Devenish Island 629Dingle peninsula 13,

279-92, 280-1Dingle town 13, 287, 282,

13, 287disabilities, travellers

with 676discount passes 83, 131,

499, 559distilleries 47

Dingle Distillery 281-2Jameson Experience 225Kilbeggan Distillery

Experience 479Old Bushmills Distillery

605Old Jameson Distillery 92Teeling Distillery 24, 47Tullamore Dew Visitor

Centre 24, 489diving 43

Arranmore Island 446Baltimore 238

Connemara 391Inishbofin 390Kilkee 338Lahinch 342Portstewart 602Rosguill Peninsula 457Schull 242

Dog’s Bay 52, 387dolphins 250, 283, 337, 339Donagh Cross 463Donaghadee 566Donegal, County 18, 56,

430-65, 18accommodation 430climate 430food 430highlights 432-3, 432-3travel to/from 431travel within 431

Donegal Point 340Donegal town 431-5, 434Donnelly’s Hollow 157Dooks Beach 270Doolin 347-9, 329Doolough Valley 402-3Doonalt Beach 441Doonbeg 340Dooney Rock 427Doughmore Bay 340Down, County 58, 564-82

accommodation 562climate 562food 562highlights 563, 563

Downhill Demesne 601-2Downpatrick 571-2Downpatrick Head 414drinks 47driving 680-1Drogheda 511-15, 512Dromore Wood

walking 330Drumcliff 427-8Dublin 11, 53, 60-132, 62,

64, 66, 70-1, 74-5, 88-9, 92-3, 106-7, 10-11, 30, 122-3

accommodation 60, 99-103

children, travel with 85climate 60discount passes 83, 131drinking & nightlife

113-20entertainment 120-5festivals & events 98-9food 60, 103-13highlights 62-3, 62-3history 61, 64-5

information 128-9internet resources

103, 129itineraries 65literature 81shopping 125-32sights 65-96tours 79, 84, 96, 97-8travel to/from 129-30travel within 130-2walks 94, 115, 115

Duggerna Rocks 337Dún Aengus 373Dunbrody Famine Ship 169Duncannon 167-8Dundalk 516-17Dundrum Bay 575-6Dunfanaghy 449-51Dungarvan 181-3Dungloe 445Dunguaire Castle 393-4Dunkineely 438Dunlewey 456-7Dunluce Castle 605Dunmore East 178-9Dunsany Castle 506Durrow 491-2Durrow Abbey 489Durrus 243-4Durrus cheese 244Dursey Island 49, 51, 250-1Dysert O’Dea 330

Eeagles 260, 264, 265Easkey 426East Munster Way 321Easter Rising 61, 93, 385,

639, 646economy 638-9, 648-9Electric Picnic 493electricity 672Elizabeth I 642-3embassies 673emergencies 21Emo Court 493English Market 217, 218, 217English rule 642Ennis 324-30, 325Ennis Friary 324Enniscorthy 170-2Enniscrone 426Enniskerry 138-40Enniskillen 621-8, 624Ennistymon 342-4Entries, the 534environment 662-5Errigal Mountain 457, 452

etiquette 23, 48exchange rates 21Eyeries 252

Ffairies 422Falcarragh 448-9family-friendly activities 27Famine, see Great FamineFamine Warhouse 315Fanad Peninsula 457-9, 452Fanore 353-4farms 166, 200, 240, 252,

261-2, 569Father Ted 351, 375, 380Féile An Phobail 30Fenit 295Fermanagh, County 58,

621-33accommodation 620climate 620food 620highlights 622-3, 622-3

Ferns 172-3festivals & events 28-31

Ballybunion Bachelor Festival 296

Dingle Regatta 283Electric Picnic 493film 28, 29, 214, 275,

294, 369, 546, 597Foynes Air Show 306Galway 368-9, 368-9Irish National Surfing

Championships 437Kenmare Fair 278Lisdoonvarna Match-

making Festival 350literary 205, 245, 296,

369, 473, 527, 546, 659Lughnasa 291North West 200

Motorcycle Race 602Puck Fair Festival 268Rose of Tralee 293-4walking 29, 187, 310, 577Wicklow Gardens Festival

150Willie Clancy Summer

School 342Fethard 320film 638

festivals 28, 29, 214, 275, 294, 369, 546, 597

Finavarra Peninsula 356Fisherstreet 347fishing 43

Cavan, County 521Clare, County 333,

340, 354

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

695IN

DEX F-H

Cork, County 229, 248, 252

Donegal, County 436, 439, 444, 445

Fermanagh, County 624, 630

Galway, County 362, 384Kerry, County 275Killarney 255, 263Kilkenny 201Mayo, County 415Monaghan, County 524Roscommon, County 475Sligo, County 428Waterford, County 185, 187Westmeath, County 480Wexford, County 166

Flaggy Shore 356Flagstaff Viewpoint 520Flight of the Earls 458,

642-3folk villages 311, 332, 385,

441, 477, 634-5food 44-7, 217, 673, 46

black pudding 45, 233, 216-17

cooking courses 149, 182, 225, 543

smokehouses 223, 349, 387

specialities 45, 242football 666-7Fore Valley 481forts 27, see also castles,

ruinsBeal Ború 334Caherconnell Fort 353Charles Fort 229Donegal Point 340Dún Aengus 373Dún Beag Fort 288-9Dún Chonchúir 379Dún Dúchathair 374Dún Eochla 373Dún Eoghanachta 374Duncannon Fort 167-8Enclosure of King

Laoghaire 505Fort Dunree 461Gráinne’s Fort 505Grianán of Aileách 459Griananlaghna 334Knockalla Fort 459Magazine Fort 95McArt’s Fort 543Ned’s Point Fort 461Shannonbridge 486

Fota Island 222Foynes 306fracking 664

GGaelic, see IrishGaelic football 19, 31, 95-6,

124, 666, 667Gallarus Oratory 289galleries, see also

museumsBallinglen Art Foundation

414Butler Gallery 193Carrickmacross Lace

Gallery 526Centre for Contemporary

Art 592Courthouse Studios &

Gallery 343Crawford Municipal Art

Gallery 211Dublin City Gallery - The

Hugh Lane 87-90Gallery of

Photography 82Glebe House & Gallery

456Highlanes Gallery 513Lewis Glucksman Gallery

211Limerick City Gallery of

Art 301Luan Gallery 477Model 417National Craft Gallery

195-6Old Market House Arts

Centre 182Russell Gallery 356Steensons 617Visual Centre for

Contemporary Art 188Galtee Mountains 310Galway Arts Festival 29Galway city 13, 359-71,

360-1, 13accommodation 363-5drinking & nightlife 367entertainment 367festivals & events 369food 365-7history 359information 370shopping 370sights 359-63tours 363travel to/from 370travel within 371

Galway City Museum 359Galway, County 56, 357-96

accommodation 357climate 357festivals & events 369,

368-9

food 357highlights 358, 358

Game of Thrones 16, 545-6, 573, 602, 613

gaols 86, 151, 210-11, 321, 538

Gap of Dunloe 266-7Gap of Mamore 461Garinish Island, see

Ilnacullingay travellers 673

Belfast 555Cork city 219Dublin 118

genealogy 25, 75, 151, 210, 237, 255, 300, 352, 517, 530

Geokaun Mountain 274geology 345, 608, 662Giant’s Causeway 606,

608, 611, 610Glandore 236-7Glanmore Lake 252Glen of Aherlow 310Glenariff 616Glenarm 616-17Glenbarrow 492Glenbeg Lough 252Glencolumbcille 441-2Glendalough 13, 140-7, 141,

13, 142-3accommodation 146activities 144-6history 140sights 141-4tours 146

Glengarriff 247-9Glengesh Pass 442Gleniff Horseshoe Valley

429Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb

352-3Glenmacnass 139Glenmalure 147Glens of Antrim 614-17Glenties 444Glenveagh National Park

455Goldsmith Country 479Goleen 242-3golf 14, 27, 40, 667-8, 14, 41

Antrim, County 604Belfast 544Clare, County 342Cork, County 222, 229Donegal, County 457,

459, 462Down, County 574Kerry, County 270, 296Kildare, County 153

Kilkenny, County 201Killarney 255Londonderry, County 602Sligo, County 421Waterford, County

180, 181Westmeath, County 479Wicklow, County 139

Gort 395-6Gortahork 448-9Gortin 635Gorumna Island 385Gougane Barra Forest

Park 251Graiguenamanagh 205Grand Canal 154-5, 482Great Famine 162, 351, 474,

644-5Great Newtown Head 179Great Sugarloaf 148-9Greencastle 464-5Greyabbey 567-8greyhound racing 124,

220, 668Grianán of Aileách 459Gubbeen Farm 242Guinness 48, 83, 116, 23Guinness Book of Records

164Gurteen Bay 52, 387Gweedore 446-7

HHag’s Head 344Handel, GF 121health 673Healy Pass 249Healy Pass Road 247Heaney, Seamus 661Henry VIII 642heritage centres, see also

museumsAbbeyleix Heritage

House & Museum 490Adare Heritage Centre

307Ardara Heritage Centre

442Athenry Heritage Centre

395Brian Ború Heritage

Centre 333Cashel Heritage Town

Centre Museum 311Clare Heritage Centre

351Colmcille Heritage

Centre 456Connemara Heritage &

History Centre 388

696

IND

EX H-L

heritage centres continuedEast Clare Heritage

Centre 334Granuaile Heritage

Centre 403Holy Trinity Heritage

Centre 518Inishbofin Heritage

Museum 390Irish National Heritage

Park 162-3Kenmare Heritage

Centre 278Lismore Heritage Centre

186Old Barracks Heritage

Centre 270Skibbereen Heritage

Centre 237Somme Heritage Centre

569St George’s Heritage

Centre 468St Mullins Heritage

Centre 191Valentia Island Heritage

Centre 274hiking, see walkinghill walking 38, 247, 440, 576Hillsborough 581-2historic sites

Cahercommaun 353Carrowkeel Megalithic

Cemetery 423Cavan Burren Park 523Corlea Trackway 476Creevykeel Goort Cairn

429Donagh Cross 463Dowth 499Drumanone Dolmen 475Dún Aengus 373Gallarus Oratory 289Grant Ancestral

Homestead 636Hill of Slane 500-1Kilmacduagh 396Knocknarea Cairn 421Knowth 498-9Monasterboice 515Newgrange 495, 498Plassy 381Rath of the Synods 504Rathcroghan 474Rock of Cashel 310-11Spanish Arch 359St Colmcille’s House 509

St Laurence’s Gate 513Taafe’s Castle 518Thompson Pump House

& Graving Dock 537Tobar Éinne 380

history 640-52hitching 682holidays 675Holy Island 335Home Rule 646-7Hook Head 169Hook Peninsula 167-9Horn Head 449horse racing 668, 30,

368-9Curragh 155Dublin 124events 28, 29, 30, 180,

283, 369, 500Irish National Stud &

Gardens 156Kilbeggan 479Tipperary 309

horse ridingDown, County 577Galway, County 388,

390, 395Kerry, County 290Mayo, County 403Midlands, the 480, 483Waterford, County 290

House of Waterford Crystal 175

Howth 132-3, 123Hunt Museum 301hurling 19, 31, 124, 666,

667, 19

IIlnacullin (Garinish Island)

248immigration 678Inch Strand 280-1, 287,

286-7Inchagoill 384Incheydoney 236Inisfallen 262-3Inishbofin 390-1Inisheer 377, 380-2, 376-7Inishmaan 377, 378-80, 377Inishmór 373-8, 374Inishmurray Island 428Inishowen Peninsula

459-65, 460Inishturk Island 404Inistioge 204Innisfree Island 427Inniskeen 527insurance 673-4

internet access 674IRA 650-1Ireland’s Eye 133Ireland’s Teardrop 241Irish 386, 684-8

courses 441-2, 557Irish Museum of Modern

Art 86Irish place names 522itineraries 32-6

Belfast 531Dublin 65

JJackson, Andrew 618Janus Stone 630, 627Jerpoint Abbey 201jewellery 370Johnstown Castle Gardens

159, 162Joyce, James 81, 90, 99,

132, 638, 659, see also Bloomsday, Ulysses

Nora Barnacle House 362

statues 76, 87, 81

KKate Kearney’s Cottage

266Kavanagh, Patrick 527kayaking, see canoeingKells (Kilkenny) 200Kells (County Meath) 509-10Kenmare 273, 278-9, 272Kennedy, John F 170Kerry Bog Village Museum

269Kerry, County 55, 253-96,

262-3climate 253food 253highlights 254, 254walking 253

Kerry Way 258Kilbaha 339Kilbeggan 479Kilbroney Forest Park

577-80Kilcar 440-1Kilcrohane 244Kildare, County 54, 153-7

accommodation 134climate 134food 134highlights 136-7, 136-7

Kildare town 155-7Kilfenora 350-1Kilkee 337-8

Kilkenny city 17, 193-9, 194, 17

Kilkenny, County 54, 192-206

highlights 160-1, 160-1Kilkieran Bay 386Killadoon 402Killaloe 333-4Killarney 255-60, 256,

262-3Killarney Lakes 260Killarney National Park

260, 265, 265Killary Harbour 392-3Killorglin 268-9, 273, 272Killybegs 438-9Killykeen Forest Park 521Kilmacanogue 148-9Kilmacduagh 396Kilmainham Gaol 86Kilmallock 306-7Kilmore Quay 166-7Kilmurvey Beach 373Kilnaboy 351Kilrush 336-7

St Senan’s Church 337Kincasslagh 445Kingdom of Mourne 576King John’s Castle 300-1Kinnitty 485Kinsale 217, 227-32, 228,

216Kinvara 393-4Knightstown 271Knock 416-17Knowth 498-9, 502

LLady’s Island Lake 166Lagan Towpath 536Lahinch 51, 341-53language 20, 684-8

courses 441-2, 557Laois, County 490-3Larne 617Lauragh 252Laytown 500Lecale Peninsula 572-3Leenane 392-3legal matters 674Leitrim, County 468-72Leitrim Way 472leprechauns 91, 422, 518lesbian travellers 673

Belfast 555Cork city 219Dublin 118

Letterfrack 391-2Lettergesh 391

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

697IN

DEX L-M

Letterkenny 451-5Lettermore Island 385Lettermullen Island 385libraries 90

Armagh Public Library 583

Bolton Library 311Chester Beatty Library 73Linen Hall Library 531Marsh’s Library 81, 84National Library 75Trinity College 67-72,

81, 80-1lighthouses 169, 178, 244,

339, 381, 448, 459Limavady 600-1Limerick city 300-5, 302Limerick, County 55, 300-9

accommodation 297climate 297food 297highlights 298-9, 298-9

Lisburn Road 558Liscannor 344Lisdoonvarna 349-50Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking

Festival 350Lismore 185-6Lisnaskea 628Listowel 295-6literature 26, 527, 638,

659-61Aran Islands 372Dublin 78, 81festivals 29, 205, 245,

296, 369, 473, 527, 546, 659

museums 90Londonderry, County 58,

589-603accommodation 588climate 588food 588highlights 590-1, 590-1

Londonderry town, see Derry

Longford, County 476-7Loop Head 51, 339-40Lough Boora 489Lough Corrib 384-5Lough Currane 275Lough Derg 321, 334-5Lough Derravaragh 481Lough Erne 628-33Lough Eske 436Lough Fee 391Lough Foyle Ferry 601Lough Gartan 456Lough Gill 426-7Lough Glencar 428, 425

Lough Gur 306Lough Hyne 237, 239Lough Inagh Valley 386Lough Muirí 356Lough Navar Forest Park

632Lough Neagh 586-7Lough Oughter 521Lough Ree 479Loughareema 615Loughcrew Cairns 510-11Loughcrew Gardens 510-11Loughrea 395Loughrea Peninsula 443-4Louisburgh 402-3Louth, County 57, 503

accommodation 494climate 494food 494highlights 496-7, 496-7

Lower Lough Erne 629-32Lusitania Museum 24

MMAC 535Macgillycuddy’s Reeks 267Magheraroarty Beach 449Maghery 442Magilligan Point 601Malin Head 24, 52, 459,

463-4Man of Aran 372mansions, see stately

homesmaps 674Marblehill 449marriage equality 654markets 217

Belfast 558Cork 218Drumcliff 428Dublin 110, 128Howth 133

Marsh’s Library 81Mathew, Father Theobald

211Maynooth 153-4Mayo, County 56, 400-17

accommodation 397climate 397food 397highlights 398-9, 398-9

McCarthy’s Bar 250McCourt, Frank 301measures 674Meath, County 57, 495-511

accommodation 494climate 494

food 494highlights 496-7, 496-7

Medieval Museum 173Metal Man 179midges 39Midlands, the 57, 466-93

accommodation 466climate 466drinking & nightlife 466highlights 467, 467

Midleton 225-6Millmount Museum &

Tower 511-12Miltown Malbay 340-1Mitchelstown Caves 316Mizen Head 49Mizen Head Peninsula 49,

217, 241-7Mizen Head Signal Station

243mobile phones 20, 676Moll’s Gap 267Monaghan, County 57, 524-7

accommodation 494climate 494food 494highlights 496-7, 496-7

Monaghan town 524-5Monasterboice 515-6, 502monasteries & abbeys 27,

641, see also churches & cathedrals, ruins

Abbeyshrule Cistercian Abbey 477

Augustinian Priory 307Boyle Abbey 475Castledermot 157Clonmacnoise 486-8Cong Abbey 400Corcomroe Abbey 355Devenish Island 629Dunbrody Abbey 168Grey Abbey 567-8Hore Abbey 311Inisfallen 262-3Kylemore Abbey 392Rosserk Abbey 414Sligo Abbey 417St Colmcille’s Abbey &

Birthplace 456St Mary’s Abbey 133Tintern Abbey 168

money 23, 674-5Moone 157Morrison, Van 547motorcycle travel 680-1motorsports 257mountain biking 42, 577,

635

mountaineering, see climbing

Mountcharles 438Mountmellick 492-3Mountshannon 335Mourne Mountains 576-7,

579, 578-9Mourne Wall 577, 579, 579Mournes Coast Road 577-80Moville 465Mt Brandon 289-90Mt Errisberg 387Mt Gabriel 241Mt Leinster 190Mt Seefin 244Mt Stewart 568Muckish Mountain 449Muckross Lake Loop

Trail 261Mullaghmore 429Mullet Peninsula 52Mullingar 479-81multiculturalism 655murals 544-5, 596-7Museum of Natural

History 79museums, see also

galleries, heritage centres

Allihies Copper Mine Museum 251

An Creagán 635Armagh County Museum

583Armagh Public Library

583Belfast Barge 536Belturbet Railway

Station 522Bishop’s Palace 173Bolton Library 311Burren Centre 350Cape Clear Island 240Carlow County Museum

187-8Carrickfergus Museum

618Cashel Folk Village 311Casino at Marino 96Cavan County Museum

522Celtic & Prehistoric

Museum 288Clara Bog Visitor Centre

490Clare Archaeology

Centre 330Clare Museum 324Clonmacnoise Visitor

Centre 486Cobh Museum 224

698

IND

EX M-P

museums continuedCobh, the Queenstown

Story 223Cork Butter Museum 213Cork City Gaol 210-11County Museum Dundalk

516Courthouse & Regional

Museum (Kinsale) 229Croke Park Experience

95-6Custom House 93-4Dartfield Horse Museum

& Park 395Derrynane National

Historic Park 275-7Desmond Castle 229Dingle Peninsula

Museum 289Doagh Famine Village 462Donegal County Museum

451Down County Museum

571Dublin Writers Museum

81, 90Dun na Sead 238Dunbrody Famine Ship

169Eileen Hickey Irish

Republican History Museum 540-1

Famine Cottage 289Father McDyer’s Folk

Village 441Fermanagh County

Museum 621Fox’s Lane Folk Museum

226Foynes Flying Boat

Museum 306Galway City Museum 359Glasnevin Cemetery 96Glengowla Mines 383House of Waterford

Crystal 175Hunt Museum 301Inishowen Maritime

Museum 464Irish Agricultural

Museum 159, 162Irish Horse Museum 156Irish Linen Centre &

Lisburn Museum 543Irish Museum of Modern

Art 86Irish National Famine

Museum 474

Jackie Clarke Collection 415

Jameson Experience 225Jeanie Johnston 94Kerry Bog Village

Museum 269Kerry County Museum

292Killybegs International

Carpet Making & Fishing Centre 439

Kiltartan Gregory Museum 396

King House Interpretive Centre 474-5

Knock Museum 417Ledwidge Museum 501Limerick City Museum

303Little Museum of

Dublin 77Lusitania Museum

24, 229Medieval Museum 173Millmount Museum &

Tower 511-12Mizen Head Signal

Station 243Monaghan County

Museum 524Mountmellick Museum

492-3Muckross Traditional

Farms 261-2Museum of Childhood

138-9Museum of Free Derry

597Museum of Natural

History 79Museum of Style Icons

155National 1798 Rebellion

Centre 171National Gallery 79National Leprechaun

Museum 91National Museum of

Country Life 416National Museum of

Ireland – Archaeology 78

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History 92

National Photographic Archive 82

Newmills Corn & Flax Mills 451

Newry & Mourne Museum 580

Nora Barnacle House 362-3

Nore View Folk Museum 200

North Down Museum 564Oh Yeah Music Centre

535-6Quaker Museum 157Quiet Man Museum 400Reginald’s Tower 175Roscommon County

Museum 472Rothe House & Garden

195Sheep & Wool Centre 392Skellig Experience 274Sligo County Museum

417South Tipperary County

Museum 317St Patrick Centre 571Station House Museum

388Steam Museum 154Titanic Belfast 18, 537,

18, 551Tower Museum 592Tullamore Dew Visitor

Centre 489Ulster Folk & Transport

Museums 541Ulster Museum 538-9W5 538Waterford County

Museum 181Yeats Memorial Building

418music 120, 656-8, 122, see

also traditional musicchurch & cathedral 84courses 283

mussels 270Mutton Island 340Mweenish Island 386

NN69 road 306Narin 443Narrows, the 567National Gallery 79National Museum of

Country Life 416National Museum of

Ireland – Archaeology 78

National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History 92

national parksConnemara National

Park 391-2, 15Glenveagh National

Park 455

Killarney National Park 260

Wicklow Mountains National Park 135

nature reserves 665Ballyteigue Burrow

Nature Reserve 166Clara Bog Nature

Reserve 490Copper Coast European

Geopark 181Kebble National Nature

Reserve 613Knockomagh Wood

Nature Reserve 239Lullymore Heritage &

Discovery Park 155Slieve Bloom Mountains

Nature Reserve 492Tralee Bay Wetlands

Centre 293Wexford Wildfowl

Reserve 163Navan Fort 586Nenagh 321New Quay 356New Ross 169-70Newbridge 155Newcastle 573-5Newgrange 495, 498, 15Newry 580-1newspapers 674Newtownards 568-9Northern Ireland 53, 651Northern Kerry 292-6

OO’Brien’s Tower 344, 329O’Connell, Daniel 78, 270,

276-7, 324, 644O’Donnell, Daniel 445Offaly, County 482-90Omagh 633-4Omey Island 389opening hours 21, 675Oughterard 383-4Oughtmama 355outdoor activities 37-43Oxford Island 587oysters 31, 45, 393, 369,

519, 582, 46, 203, 368

Pparks & gardens 193-4,

see also national parks, stately homes

Altamont Gardens 189Antrim Castle Gardens

618-19Bamboo Park 249

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

699IN

DEX P

-RBelfast Botanic Gardens

540, 550Birr Castle Demesne 483Blarney Castle 222Blue Pool Park 248Brigit’s Garden 383Butler House Gardens

196, 202Caherciveen 270Carlow, County 187, 188Castlecomer Discovery

Park 206Castlewellan Forest

Park 576Cave Hill Country Park

543Coole Park 396Crom Estate 628-9Cuilcagh Mountain Park

24, 523Delta Sensory Gardens

189Derreen Gardens 252Derrynane National

Historic Park 277Duckett’s Grove 189Dún an Rí Forest Park

523Ewe Experience 249Eyre Square 361Fota House Arboretum &

Gardens 222Glenarm Castle & Walled

Garden 617Glengarriff Woods

Nature Reserve 248Glenveagh Castle 455Gougane Barra Forest

Park 251Heywood Gardens 490Howth Castle 132Huntington Castle 192Ilnacullin (Garinish

Island) 248Irish National Stud &

Gardens 156Johnstown Castle

Gardens 159, 162Kilbroney Forest Park 577Kilgraney House Herb

Gardens 190Killykeen Forest Park 521Kilruddery House &

Gardens 149Knappogue Castle &

Walled Garden 331Knockreer House &

Gardens 263Lismore Castle Gardens

186Lodge Park Walled

Garden 154

Lough Boora Parklands 489

Lough Key Forest Park 475

Lough Navar Forest Park 632

Mall, the 583, 585Merrion Square 78Mt Usher Gardens 149National Botanic

Gardens (Dublin) 96National Botanic

Gardens (Rathdrum) 150-1

Nore Linear Park 196Palace Demesne Public

Park 585People’s Park 303Phoenix Park 94-5Powerscourt Estate 138Roe Valley Country

Park 601Rossmore Forest Park

525Salthill Gardens 438Scrabo Country Park

568Seaforde Gardens &

Tropical Butterfly House 575-6

Slieve Gullion Forest Park 587

Sonairte 500St Stephen’s Green 75-6,

74-5Tollymore Forest Park

576Tullynally Castle Gardens

481Vandeleur Walled Garden

336-7War Memorial Gardens

87Woodstock Gardens 204

Parnell, Charles Stewart 644-5

Passage East 178passports 678Peace Line 540Pearse, Pádraig (Patrick)

385, 646Penal Laws 643phonecards 676photography 675Pigeonhole Cave 402place names 589planning 20-1, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 21first-time visitors 22-3food & drink 44-8

internet resources 21Ireland basics 20-1Ireland’s regions 53-8itineraries 32-6repeat visitors 24travel seasons 20

plants 662-3Plassy 377, 381, 376politics 638-9, 654population 639Port Chorrúch 373Portaferry 566-7Portarlington 493Portbradden 608Portmagee 274-5Port-na-Blagh 449Portnoo 443Portrush 603-5Portsalon 459Portstewart 602-3Poulnabrone Dolmen 352Powerscourt Estate 138-9prehistoric sites 17, 24, 27,

17, see also ruins, stone circles

Priest’s Leap 248public holidays 675pubs 12, 26-7, 12, 203Puck Fair 31

QQueen’s University 539Quiet Man, The 388, 400Quin 330-9Quirke, Michael 420

Rradio 655, 674Raghly 428-9rally racing 28Rathdrum 150-1Rathlin Island 613-14Rathmelton 458Rathmullan 458-9Recession 649Red Hand of Ulster 541religion 639, 640-1, 655Renvyle 391Rerrin 250Ring of Beara, see Beara

PeninsulaRing of Gullion 587Ring of Kerry 16, 267-79,

268-9, 16Ring Peninsula 183-4River Erne 471River Shannon 471, 482,

488, 470-1

road bowling 585, 668Roadford 347rock climbing, see climbingRock of Cashel 14, 310-11,

14, 312-13Rock of Dunamaise 493Roscommon, County 472-6Roscommon town 472-3Rose of Innisfree 472Rose of Tralee 31, 293-4Rosguill Peninsula 457Rosscarbery Bay 236Rosses Point 421Rosslare Harbour 165-6Rossmore Forest Park 525Rossnowlagh 436Rostrevor 580Roundstone 386-7Roundwood 140Royal Canal 482rugby 28, 667ruins 27, 159, see also

castles, churches & cathedrals, forts, monasteries & abbeys

Ardfert Cathedral 295Athassel Priory 314Athenry Dominican

Priory 395Ballymote Castle 423Carlow Castle 188Carrigaholt castle 339Carrigogunnell Castle

306Clare Island Abbey 403Dunamore Castle 240Ferns Castle 172Franciscan Friary 307Granuaile’s Castle 403Grennan Castle 204Jerpoint Abbey 201Kells Priory 200Kilfane Church 201Killeshin Church 189Killevy Churches 587Layd Old Church 615Muckross Abbey 262Nendrum Monastic Site

569-70Newtown Ruins 508O’Brien Castle 330, 376O’Doherty’s Keep 460Old Mellifont Abbey 515Ring Forts 270Roscommon Castle 472St Declan’s Monastery

184St Enda’s Monastery 374St Mary’s Abbey & Talbot

Castle 507-8

700

IND

EX R-T

St Mullins Monastery 191Teampall Bheanáin 374Teampall Chiaráin 373Tullyaughnish Church 458White Island 630

Ssafety 675, 682

Belfast 558-9Monasterboice 516

sailing 242, 278, 283, 394, 369, 369, see also boat travel

Carrick-on-Shannon 468Cork, County 249Lough Derg 321Lough Erne 631River Shannon 482

Saltee Islands 166-7Salthill 363Sands, Bobby 541Sandycove 132Saul 572scenery 25scenic drives 49-52

Atlantic Drive 457Brandon’s Point 291Clare cliffs 340Coast Road 514, 503Connemara 391Donegal, County 439Downpatrick Head 414Galway city to Mace

Head 385-6Glen of Aherlow 310Gleniff Horseshoe Valley

429Healy Pass 247, 249Lough Navar Forest

Park 632Moll’s Gap 267Mt Leinster Heritage

Drive 190N69 road 306Nire Valley Drive 187Priest’s Leap 248Ring of Hook 167Roundstone Bog 387Sheep’s Head Peninsula

244Sky Road 387-8Slea Head 287, 288, 286Torr Head Scenic Road

614Waterford, County 178

scenic railways 444Giant’s Causeway &

Bushmills Railway 605West Clare Railway 338

Schull 241-2sea kayaking 437seals 373Sgilloge Lakes 187Shandon 210-52Shannon Airport 331-2Shannon Banks Nature

Trail 477-8Shannon Callows 486Shannon Harbour 488Shannon town 331-2Shannonbridge 486Sheep & Wool Centre 392sheepdogs 385Sheep’s Head Peninsula

244-5Sherkin Island 240shopping centres 127Silent Valley Reservoir 576Sinn Féin 541, 646, 649-51Skellig Islands 276Skellig Ring 273, 275, 272-3Skibbereen 237-8Sky Road 51, 387-8Slane 500-4Slea Head 49, 287, 288, 286Slieve Bloom Mountains

492Slieve Donard 574Slieve League 52, 440Slieve Patrick 572Slievenamuck Hills 310Sligo, County 56, 417-29

accommodation 397climate 397food 397highlights 398-9, 398-9

Sligo town 417-21, 418smokehouses 223, 349, 387Sneem 277-8soccer 666-7South Leinster Way 204souvenirs 126Spa 295Spanish Arch 359Sperrin Mountains 635Spiddal 385Spike Island 223sports 666-8SS Nomadic 537St Canice’s Cathedral 194-5St Colmcille 456St Columb’s Cathedral 592St Declan’s Monastery 184St George’s Market 558

St Kevin 142, see also Glendalough

St Laurence’s Gate 513St Mullins 191-2St Oliver Plunkett 513St Patrick 571, 572, 619,

641St Patrick’s Cathedral

83-4, 122St Patrick’s Church of

Ireland Cathedral 583St Patrick’s Day 28, 546St Patrick’s Roman

Catholic Cathedral 583St Peter’s Roman Catholic

Church 513St Stephen’s Green 75-6,

74-5stately homes, see also

castles, parks & gardens

Adare Manor 308, 318Ashford Castle Estate

400Avondale House 150Bantry House & Garden

245Belvedere House &

Gardens 480Borris House 190Cappoquin House &

Gardens 185Castle Archdale Country

Park 629Castle Ward Estate 573Castletown House 152Curraghmore Estate 178Downhill Demesne 601-2Emo Court 493Florence Court 633Hatley Manor 468Hillsborough Castle

581-2Mt Stewart House &

Gardens 568Muckross House 261Powerscourt Estate 138-9Russborough House

147-8Strokestown Park 473Turlough Manor 416

stone circles 236, 250, 306, 421, 423, 635 see also prehistoric sites

Stormont 541Stradbally Cove 181Straffan 154Strandhill 422-3, 424Strangford 572-3Strangford Lough 569-70,

579

Streedagh Beach 429Strokestown 473-4Struell Wells 572surfing 42, 286-7

Bundoran Beach 437Castlegregory 292Clare, County 341Dingle Peninsula 281,

283Doonbeg 340Downhill 602Easkey 426Enniscrone 426Fanore 354Louisburgh 402, 403Mullaghmore 429Portrush 604Rossnowlagh 436Strandhill 422Tramore 180

Swift, Jonathan 84, 121, 204, 508

Synge’s Chair 379

TTacumshane Windmill 166Tara 504-6Tara Brooch 78Tarbert 296taxes 674-5Tayto Park 24, 505Teelin 440-1Teeling Distillery 24telegraph 271telephone services 676Temple Bar Trad Festival 98Termonfeckin 514theatre 125Thomastown 201-4Timahoe 493time 20, 676Tinakilly Country House

148Tintern Abbey 168Tipperary, County 55,

309-21accommodation 297climate 297food 297highlights 298-9, 298-9

Tipperary town 309tipping 23, 675Titanic Belfast 18, 537,

18, 551Titanic Experience Cobh

223-4Tobar Éinne 380Tory Island 447-8tourist information 676

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

701IN

DEX T-Z

tours 682Tower Museum 592traditional music 12, 25,

326, 656-7, 12train travel 682-3, 683Tralee 292-5, 293Tramore (Waterford) 179-81Tramore Beach (Donegal)

52, 444, 450travel to/from Ireland

678-9travel within Ireland

679-83Trim 506-9, 507Trinity College 66-71, 100,

66, 68-9library 81, 80-1

Troubles, the 621, 650-1Tuamgraney 334Tullamore 488-9Tully Mountain 391Turoe Stone 395TV 655Twelve Bens 386, 392Tyrone, County 58, 633-6

accommodation 620climate 620food 620highlights 622-3, 622-3

UU2 657Uisneach 478Ulster American Folk Park

634-5Ulster Folk & Transport

Museums 541Ulster Unionist Party

649-50Ulster Way 628Ulysses 99, 479unemployment 639Union Hall 236-7Upper Lough Erne 628-9Urris Hills 462

Vvacations 675Vale of Avoca 151-2Valentia Island 273, 273Vandeleur Walled Garden

336-7vegetarian travellers

47, 105Viking Ship Cruises 478Vikings 78, 85-6, 173, 641-2Vinegar Hill 171Virginia 523visas 677

Wwalking 15, 37-40, see also

hill walking, 15Ardmore Cliff Walk 184Ards Forest Park 449Arigna Miners Way &

Historical Trail 475Arranmore Way 446Aughris Head 426Ballyconagan Nature

Reserve 613Bank Walk 431Barrow Way 187, 191Beara Way 249, 251Benbulben Loop 428Bentee Loop 270-1Birr 483Brandon Hill Loop 204Brandy Pad 576Buncrana 460Burren, the 346Cahir 315Causeway Coast 607,

607Cavan Way 524Clare Island 403Coastal Walkway 465Connemara 383Cuilcagh Mountain 632Davagh Forest Park 635Derry 593, 593Dingle Way 279Doolin 344, 347, 329Dromore Wood 330Dublin 94, 115, 115East Munster Way 321festivals 29, 187, 310,

577Flaggy Shore 356Glen of Aherlow 310Glencolumbcille 441Glendalough 144-6Gleniff Horseshoe Valley

429Glenties 444Gougane Barra 251Granite Trail 574Hook Head 169Inishbofin 390Inisheer 381Inishmaan 379Inishowen Head 465Kerry, County 253Kerry Way 258Kilrush Shannon Dolphin

Trail 337Lagan Towpath 536Leenane 392-3Leitrim Way 472

Longford-Cloondara Trackway 477

Lough Eske 436Lough Gill 426Macgillycuddy’s Reeks

267Moyle Way 614Mt Brandon 289-90Mt Errisberg 387Mt Gabriel 241Muckross Lake Loop

Trail 261Nore Linear Park 196Nore Valley Walk 204North Down Coastal

Path 564Patrick’s Way 571Poisoned Glen 456Port Path 602Saints Road 289Scilly Walk 229Sgilloge Lakes 187Shannon Banks Nature

Trail 477-8Sheep’s Head Peninsula

244Slemish 619Slieve Bloom Way 492Slieve Donard 574Slieve League 440Sligo, County 427South Leinster Way 204Strandhill 422Suck Valley Way 473Táin Way 518Tipperary Heritage

Trail 316Tory Way 448Tramore 180Tully Mountain 391Ulster Way 614, 628Urris Hills 462Wicklow Way 145, 192Youghal 226

Warrenpoint 580water sports 42-3, see also

canoeing, coasteering, diving, surfing

Waterford city 173-8, 174Waterford, County 54,

160-1, 173-87, 160-1Waterford Treasures 173Waterville 275weather 20, 28-31, 672, see

climateweights 674Westmeath, County 477-82Wexford, County 54, 159-73

climate 158gardens 158

highlights 160-1, 160-1historic buildings 158

Wexford town 159-65, 162whales 169, 236, 238,

243, 250whiskey 47, see also

distilleriesWhite Island 630White Strand 340Wicklow, County 54, 135-53

accommodation 134climate 134food 134gardens 138, 150highlights 136-7, 136-7travel to/from 135

Wicklow Gardens Festival 150

Wicklow Mountains 135-47Wicklow Way 145, 192Wicklow’s Historic Gaol 151Wild Atlantic Way 18, 24,

49-52, 335-6, 50, 18Wilde, Oscar 78, 81, 159,

621, 80wildlife centres & reserves,

see also zoosArds Forest Park 449Castle Espie Wildfowl &

Wetlands Centre 569Dursey Island 250Murlough National

Nature Reserve 573Shannon Dolphin &

Wildlife Centre 337wildlife watching 236, 250,

265, 293, 339, 373Willie Clancy Summer

School 29, 342winter solstice 498women travellers 677Woodstown Beach 178work 677workhouses 450, 491

Yyachting 242Yeats, WB 395, 418, 422,

425, 427-8, 659, 424Youghal 226-7

Zzoos 95, see also wildlife

reservesBelfast Zoo 543Fota Wildlife Park 222Straffan Butterfly Farm

154

702

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

Neil Wilson Counties Wexford, Waterford, Carlow & Kilkenny; County Cork; County Kerry Neil’s first visit to Ireland was on a sailing trip to Kinsale in 1990. Since then he has travelled most of the Republic and all of Northern Ireland, often while researching for Lonely Planet guidebooks. Working on this edition allowed him to hike the main ridge of MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, cycle to the top of Priest’s Leap, and eat far too much farmhouse cheese in West Cork (mmm,

Gubbeen…). Neil is a full-time travel writer based in Scotland, and has written more than 70 guidebooks for half a dozen publishers. Neil also wrote the Great Outdoors chapter.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98312th edition – March 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 686 6© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Fionn Davenport Dublin; Counties Wicklow & Kildare Irish-born and raised, Fionn has been writing about his native country for close to two decades and is constantly surprised by its ability to surprise him. From his home in Dublin he’s struck out to find the best new attractions and distractions, restaurants, cafes and hotels. It’s a dirty job but he’s happy to do it. You’ll also find his work in the travel section of the Irish Times. Fionn also wrote the Welcome to, Ireland’s Top 21, Need to Know,

First Time, What’s New, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Eat & Drink Like a Local, The Wild Atlantic Way, Regions at a Glance, and the Understand chapters.

Damian Harper Counties Limerick & Tipperary; County Clare; County Galway A Lonely Planet author for almost two decades, Damian first visited Ireland when he worked for a year in Dublin as a bookseller at Waterstones’ first international branch on Daw-son St. With two university degrees, Damian has contributed to a host of Lonely Planet titles from London to Shanghai, Vietnam and England, and seized the opportunity to explore the astonishingly beautiful west coast of Ireland. Damian

also wrote the Directory chapter.

Catherine Le Nevez Counties Meath, Louth, Cavan & Monaghan; Belfast; Counties Down & Armagh; Counties Londonderry & Antrim Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she road-tripped across Europe aged four and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Catherine’s Celtic connections include Irish and

Breton heritage, and a love of Guinness. She’s travelled throughout every county in the Emerald Isle, and has covered the vast majority for Lonely Planet, including numerous editions of this guide.

Ryan Ver Berkmoes Counties Mayo & Sligo; County Donegal; The Midlands; Counties Fermanagh & Tyrone From Malin Head to Durrow, with plenty of pleasures in between, Ryan Ver Berkmoes has delighted in great swaths of Ireland. He first visited Galway in 1985 when he remembers a grey place where the locals wandered the muddy tidal flats for fun and frolic. How things change! From lost rural pubs to lost memory, he’s revelled in a place where his first name brings a smile and his sur-

name brings a ‘huh?’ Ryan also wrote the Transport chapter. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.com; @ryanvb

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’