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Behind the Scenes

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Seth Blumenthal, Su Elliot, Elizabeth Ham-bourger, Fey Martin, Cornelia Pabijan, Hilary Phillips, Valentina Sarracco, Bárbara Viana

WRITER THANKSKarla ZimmermanMany thanks to Carmine Cervi, Tressa Ferrella, Dan Hartley, David Lynch, Kari Lydersen, Cathy McKee and all of my other friends who

took the time to share their favorite local spots. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner-for-life, who indulges my beer- and donut-filled ramblings with an endless supply of good humor.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCover photograph: Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate sculpture, Nick Ledger/AWL©.

269©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Chicago guidebook was researched, written and curated by Karla Zimmer-man. Karla and Sara Benson wrote and researched the previous edition. This guide-book was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Rebecca WarrenProduct Editors Carolyn Boicos, Grace DobellSenior Cartographer Alison LyallBook Designers Jessica Rose, Wendy Wright Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Robyn Loughnane,

Charlotte Orr, Saralinda Turner Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Katie Connolly, Kate James, Andi Jones, Virginia Moreno, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Victoria Smith

270

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Index360° Chicago 83, 83606, the 13, 1374944 S Woodlawn Ave 197

Aaccommodations 15, 215-30,

see also Sleeping subindex

Andersonville & Uptown 227-8

Gold Coast 224-6Hyde Park & South Side

230Lake View & Wrigleyville

226-7Lincoln Park & Old Town

226Logan Square &

Humboldt Park 229Loop, the 218-20Near North & Navy Pier

220-4Near West Side & Pilsen

229South Loop & Near South

Side 229-30Wicker Park, Bucktown

& Ukrainian Village 228-9

Achatz, Grant 104, 172, 250, 251

activities 21-3, 35-6, see also individual neighborhoods, Sports & Activities subindex

Adler Planetarium 181, 182, 183

air travel 260-1Alfred Caldwell Lily

Pool 99Algren, Nelson 257Alta Vista Terrace 113ambulance 265

Andersonville 43, 125-34, 125, 302

accommodations 227-8drinking & nightlife 126,

132-3entertainment 126, 133food 126, 127-9, 132highlights 125shopping 133-4sights 127sports & activities 134transportation 126

Ann Nathan Gallery 71Aqua Tower 55Archbishop’s Residence 86architecture 19, 54, 56-7,

184, 242-6, 56, 57books 65tours & cruises 9, 263-4, 8

area codes 268Argyle Street 127artart deco 245art galleries, see galleriesArt Institute of Chicago 6,

49-50, 6-7, 18, 49arts 10, 19, 53, 253-8, see

also individual artsAstor St 86, 88ATMs 266

BBanks, Ernie 248bars, see drinking & nightlifebaseball 35, 111-12, 124,

204-5, 212, 247-8basketball 35, 177, 248Batcolumn 165Battle of Fort Dearborn

Park 185Bayless, Rick 74, 77, 174, 251beaches 24, 36

12th Street Beach 19057th Street Beach 20563rd Street Beach 205Fullerton Beach 108Montrose Beach 134, 130-1

North Avenue Beach 108, 100

Oak Street Beach 90-1, 94, 91

Ohio St Beach 80, 73Oval Beach (Saugatuck)

213West Beach (Indiana

Dunes) 209Bean, the 46beaux arts 244-5beer 29, 30Bellow, Saul 257bicycling 24-5, 35, 36, 66,

80, 209, 262Biograph Theater 99birdwatching 127Bloodshot 257blueberry picking 213blues music 11, 22, 32,

200, 255boat tours 263-4boat travel 262Boeing Galleries 48Bond Chapel 197books 258

architecture 65food 250history 235literature 232, 257

bookstores 34bowling 124Boystown 113BP Bridge 48Bridgeport 200-1, 203, 317Bridgeport Art Center 200Bronzeville 201-2, 317Buckingham Fountain 52Bucktown 43, 135-51, 135,

304-5accommodations 228-9drinking & nightlife 136,

146-7entertainment 148-9food 136, 138-41, 144highlights 135shopping 136, 149-51

sights 137-8transportation 136

budget 14, 27, 30, 216, 226, 265

Burnham, Daniel 54, 236, 242, 244, 246

bus travel 261, 262business hours 34, 36, 267Busy Beaver Button

Museum 154Butkus, Dick 248

CCalder, Alexander 53, 254Capone, Al 99, 133, 238car travel 262-3Carl Hammer Gallery 71cell phones 14, 267Centennial Fountain 74Center on Halsted 113Chagall, Marc 50, 53Charnley-Persky House

86, 89Check, Please! 251-2chemists 266Chess Records 257Chicago Architectural

Biennial 13, 23Chicago Architecture

Foundation 53Chicago Arts District 166Chicago Bears 189-90,

249, 249Chicago Blackhawks 177, 249Chicago Blues Festival 22Chicago Board of Trade 55Chicago Bulls 177, 248Chicago Children’s Museum

70-1Chicago Cubs 124, 247-8Chicago Cultural Center

52, 244Chicago Design Museum

13, 58Chicago Federal Center 246Chicago Fire Academy 165-6Chicago fire of 1871 236

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P275

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P276

3 ENTERTAINMENT P277

7 SHOPPING P278

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P279

4 SLEEPING P279

271©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Chicago Fire soccer team 204, 249

Chicago History Museum 98

Chicago Marathon 22-3Chicago Spire 70Chicago Sports Museum 85Chicago Stock Exchange

Arch 59Chicago White Sox 204-5Chicago Women’s Park 185children, travel with 20,

24-5, 34, 76Chinatown 185-6, 187cinemas 31, 32City Gallery 85Clarke House Museum 185classical music 32climate 15, 21, 22Cloud Gate 46clubs 29, 30, 39, see also

Drinking & Nightlife subindex

cocktails 29, 30coffee 30comedy shows 10, 32, 258conventions 224Cooper Dual Language

Academy 166costs 14, 265, 267

accommodations 215, 216, 226

drinking & nightlife 30food 27

Couch Mausoleum 97Cozy Dog Drive In

(Springfield) 208credit cards 266crime 232-3, 267Crown Fountain 46-7cruises 9, 25, 263-4culture 20, 232-3currency 14customs regulations 265cycling, see bicyclingCyrus McCormick

Mansion 86

DDaley Plaza 52-3Daley, Richard J 238-9Daley, Richard M 240-1dance 32, 258dangers 267Darger, Henry 138

Dearborn Street Station 184

deep-dish pizza 75, 250-1, 26

Delmark Records 257DePaul Art Museum 99Devon Avenue 128disabilities, travelers

with 268Ditka, Mike 248Douglas 212-13Driehaus Museum 70drinking & nightlife 29-30,

see also individual neighborhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex

driving 262-3Dubuffet, Jean 53DuSable Museum of

African American History 195

Eeconomy 232El, the 98, 261-2Elbridge G Keith House 185electricity 265Elijah Muhammad House

197Elliot, Graham 172, 251Emanuel, Rahm 233, 241emergencies 265entertainment 31-2,

see also individual neighborhoods, Entertainment subindex

Ernest Hemingway Museum (Oak Park) 207

Essanay Studios 127events, see festivals &

events

FFarm-in-the-Zoo 98Fermi, Enrico 197, 239 festivals & events 21-3, 25,

31, 37Field Museum of Natural

History 180, 180, 183films 31, 32, 232, 258Fine Arts Building 58fire of 1871 236fire services 265Flamingo 10, 53, 10Flat Iron Building 137food 12, 26-8, 233, 250-2,

12, see also individual neighborhoods, Eating subindex

football 35, 189-90, 249, 249

Formal Garden 154Four Seasons 53Frank Lloyd Wright Home

& Studio (Oak Park) 207

Funk’s Grove (Shirley) 208

GGalena 213-14Galerie F 155galleries 71, 138, 165,

see also individual galleries

Gang, Jeanne 55, 102, 232, 246

gangster history 19, 99, 133, 238

tours 264Garden of the Phoenix 197gardens 19-20, see also

individual gardensGarfield Park

Conservatory 166gay travelers 37-9Gehry, Frank 47, 48Gemini Giant (Wilmington)

208Glessner House Museum

185Gold Coast 43, 81-94, 81,

294-5accommodations 224-6drinking & nightlife

82, 91-2entertainment 92-3food 82, 87, 91highlights 81, 83-4shopping 82, 93-4sights 83-6sports & activities 94transportation 82walks 90-1, 90

golf 36, 108, 124, 205Graceland Cemetery 127Grant Park 55Greater Salem Baptist

Church 200Greektown 166-7, 171-2Green City Market 98-9,

100Guillén, Ozzie 248Guy, Buddy 188

HHarley-Davidson Museum

(Milwaukee) 211Harold Washington Library

Center 55, 256

Haymarket Memorial 165, 171

Haymarket Square 165Hefner, Hugh 85-6Hemingway, Ernest 207hip-hop music 256history 20, 234-41hockey 177, 249holidays 267Holy Name Cathedral 71Holy Trinity Russian

Orthodox Cathedral 139horseback riding 214hot dogs 251house music 255-6Humboldt Park 154, 157,

157Humboldt Park (area) 43,

152-62, 152, 308accommodations 229drinking & nightlife 153,

161-2entertainment 153, 162food 153, 155-6, 160-1highlights 152shopping 162sights 154-5transportation 153walks 156-7, 157

Hutchinson Street District 127

Hyde Park 43, 191-205, 191, 318-19

accommodations 230drinking & nightlife 192,

203-4entertainment 204food 192, 202-3highlights 191, 193-4shopping 204sights 193-7, 200sports & activities 204-5transportation 192walks 196, 196

Hyde Park Art Center 197Hyde Park Hair Salon 200

Iice-skating 36, 66Ida B Wells House 202Illinois Centennial

Memorial Column 154, 156

Illinois Institute of Technology 201

Indiana Dunes 208-10, 210-11

Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore (Indiana Dunes) 209

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

272

IND

EX C-I

Indiana Dunes State Park (Indiana Dunes) 209

International Museum of Surgical Science 85

internet access 265-6internet resources, see

websitesIntuit: The Center for

Intuitive and Outsider Art 138

itineraries 16-17Izard, Stephanie 167, 171,

172, 251

JJackson Park 195, 197jazz music 22, 32, 200, 256John Hancock Center 9, 83Jordan, Michael 248Joseph G Coleman House

185

KKahan, Paul 139, 251KAM Synagogue 197kayaking 35, 36, 66,

94, 134Kedzie Boulevard 157Kenwood 197Kluczynski Building 54

LLake View 43, 109-24, 109,

300-1accommodations 226-7drinking & nightlife 110,

118-20entertainment 110, 120-2food 110, 113, 116, 118highlights 109shopping 122-4sights 113sports & activities 124transportation 110walks 116-17, 117

Lakefront Brewery (Milwaukee) 211

Lakefront Trail 97language 14Leather Archives &

Museum 37-8legal matters 266lesbian travelers 37-9Lincoln Park 97, 100, 102,

97, 100, 101Lincoln Park (area) 43,

95-108, 95, 296-7accommodations 226drinking & nightlife 96,

104-5

entertainment 96, 105-7food 96, 99, 103-104highlights 10, 95, 97shopping 107-8sights 97-9sports & activities 108transportation 96walks 102, 102

Lincoln Park Conservatory 98

Lincoln Park Zoo 98, 17Lincoln Square 116-17, 117,

316, 117literature 232, 257, see also

booksLittle Italy 172-3Logan Square 43, 152-62,

152, 308accommodations 229drinking & nightlife 153,

161-2entertainment 153, 162food 153, 155-6, 160-1highlights 152shopping 162sights 154-5transportation 153walks 156-7, 157

Logan Square Farmers Market 154

Lollapalooza 22Loop, the 43, 44-66, 44,

286-7accommodations 218-20drinking & nightlife

45, 61-2entertainment 45, 62-5food 45, 58, 60-61highlights 6, 9, 10, 44,

46-51shopping 65-6sights 46-58sports & activities 66transportation 45walks 58-9, 59

Lurie Garden 47-8

MMaggie Daley Park 13,

53, 24Magnificent Mile 70, 245Marina City 70, 72markets 34, 154, 176, see

also individual marketsMarquette Building 54, 57Mars Gallery 165, 170Marshall Field Building

54, 57Mary Bartelme Park 171

Maxwell Street Market 176McCormick Place 184-5medical services 266Merchandise Mart 71Mergenthaler Lofts 184Metra travel 262Meyers Ace Hardware

Store 200Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig

54, 201, 245-6Mikita, Stan 248Millennium Monument 48Millennium Park 6, 46-8, 46Miller Brewing Company

(Milwaukee) 211Milwaukee 210-12Milwaukee Art Museum

(Milwaukee) 211Miró’s Chicago 53mobile phones 14, 267Monadnock Building 54money 14, 27, 30, 216, 226,

265, 266-7Money Museum 53-5Monique Meloche

Gallery 138Montrose Point Bird

Sanctuary 127Monument with Standing

Beast 53Moore House (Oak Park)

207motorcycle travel 262-3Mt Baldhead (Saugatuck)

213Mt Carmel Cemetery 238Muddy Waters’ house 200murals 168, 168-9

tours 177Museum of Broadcast

Communications 74Museum of Contemporary

Art (MCA) 84, 84Museum of Contemporary

Photography 181Museum of Science &

Industry 193, 193museums 18, 25, see also

individual museumsmusic 11, 31, 254-6, 257

see also Entertainment subindex

music stores 34

NNational Museum of

Mexican Art 166National Museum of Puerto

Rican Arts & Culture 154

Nature Boardwalk 98, 102

Navy Pier 12, 13, 24, 69, 12, 69, 73

Near North & Navy Pier 43, 67-80, 67, 290-1, 293

accommodations 220-4drinking & nightlife

68, 78-9entertainment 79food 68, 74-8highlights 12, 67, 69shopping 68, 79-80sights 69-74sports & activities 80transportation 68

Near South Side 43, 178-90, 178, 314-15

accommodations 229-30drinking & nightlife 179,

187-8entertainment 188-9food 179, 186-7highlights 11, 178shopping 179, 189sights 184-5sports & activities

189-90transportation 179

Near West Side 43, 163-77, 163, 310-11

accommodations 229drinking & nightlife 164,

174-5entertainment 175food 164, 166-7, 171-3highlights 163shopping 164, 175-7sights 165-6sports & activities 177transportation 164walks 170-1, 170

Nelson Algren’s House 137Newberry Library 85, 90newspapers 266NFL 35, 189-90, 249, 249Nichols Bridgeway 48nightlife, see drinking &

nightlife Northerly Island 181nuclear energy 197, 239Nuclear Energy Sculpture

197

OOak Park 207-8Oak Street 90Obama, Barack 197, 200Old Marshall Field’s

Clock 58Old St Patrick’s Church 165

273IN

DEX I-O

Old Town 43, 95-108, 95, 296-7

accommodations 226drinking & nightlife 96,

104-5entertainment 96, 105-7food 96, 104highlights 10, 95shopping 107-8sights 98-9sports & activities 108transportation 96

Olmec Head No 8 184opening hours 34, 36, 267opera 32Oriental Institute 195

Ppainting 253-4Palmisano Park 200parks 19-20, 24Paseo Boricua 155Payton, Walter 248Pedway 52Peggy Notebaert Nature

Museum 98, 101pharmacies 266phonecards 268Picasso, Pablo 53Pilgrim Baptist Church 202Pilsen 43, 163-77, 163,

310-11, 168-9accommodations 229drinking & nightlife

164, 175entertainment 175food 164, 173-4highlights 163shopping 164, 175-7sights 165sports & activities 177transportation 164

Ping Tom Memorial Park 186

Pippen, Scottie 248pizza 75, 250-1, 26planning

budgeting 14, 27, 30, 216, 226, 265

Chicago basics 14-15Chicago’s

neighborhoods 42-3children, travel with 20,

24-5, 34, 76

festivals & events 21-3itineraries 16-17repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15, 21,

22, 23websites 14

Playboy Mansion, Original 85-6, 89

Plensa, Jaume 46-7 Poetry Foundation 74police 265Polish Museum of America

137-8politics 233, 238-41Pontiac Building 184pop culture 20population 232-3postal services 267Potawatomi people 234Prairie Avenue Historic

District 185Prairie Houses 243Pride Parade 22, 37, 23, 38Printer’s Row 184Pritzker Pavilion 6, 47, 5,

7, 253Prohibition 238public art 10, 53, 254public holidays 267Pui Tak Center 186Pullman National

Monument 13, 201

Rradio 266Randolph Street Market 176Reliance Building 54,

243, 56religion 233Richard Norton Gallery 71Riverwalk 13, 55Robert W Roloson Houses

202Robie House 194, 194, 199rock music 11, 32, 256Rockefeller Memorial

Chapel 197Rookery 54, 242Rosehill Cemetery 113Route 66 208Route 66 Hall of Fame

(Pontiac) 208Route 66 Sign 55running 35Ruth, Babe 112

Ssafety 267Saints Volodymyr & Olha

Church 139

Sandberg, Ryne 248Santa Fe Building 54Saugatuck 212-13Schwinn mansion 157sculpture 253-4Second Franklin

Building 184Seurat, Georges 49 Shedd Aquarium 181, 183shopping 33-4, 39, see also

individual neighborhoods, Shopping subindex

souvenirs 34, 123, 249skating 134skyscrapers 19Skywalk 83sledding 190Smart Museum of Art 195smoking 266soccer 204, 249Soldier Field 181, 184Soup and Bread 148South Loop 43, 178-90,

178, 314-15accommodations 229-30drinking & nightlife 179,

187-8entertainment 188-9food 179, 186-7highlights 11, 178, 180shopping 179, 189sights 180-1, 184sports & activities

189-90transportation 179

South Side 43, 191-205, 191, 318-19

accommodations 230drinking & nightlife 192,

203-4entertainment 204food 192, 203highlights 191shopping 204sights 200-2sports & activities 204-5transportation 192

souvenirs 34, 123, 249spoken-word shows 257sports 35-6, 247-9, see

also individual neighborhoods, sports, Sports & Activities subindex

SR Crown Hall 201-2St Nicholas Ukrainian

Catholic Cathedral 139, 142-3

St Patrick’s Day Parade 21St Pius Church 166

St Valentine’s Day Massacre Site 99

Standing Lincoln 97stand-up paddleboarding 35State Street Village 202Stony Island Arts Bank

13, 195subway travel 261-2Sullivan Center 54Sullivan, Louis 54, 246Supreme Life Building 202Swedish American Museum

Center 127swimming 35

TTall Paul 208 taxes 34, 267taxis 261, 262telephone services 14,

267-8theater 10, 25, 31, 32, 38,

64, 258Thomas, Frank 248Threewalls 165thrift shops 149Thrill Jockey 257TILT 83time 268tipping 27, 30, 216, 266-7tourist information 268tours 263-4

architecture 9, 263-4, 8Chinatown 186food 26-7gangster history 264murals 177

train travel 98, 260, 261-2travel to Chicago 15, 260-1travel within Chicago 15,

261-3Tribune Tower 70, 245Trump Tower 74TV 25, 251-2, 258, 266

UUkrainian Institute of

Modern Art 138Ukrainian Village 43, 135-51,

135, 304-5, 142accommodations 228-9drinking & nightlife

136, 147entertainment 148-9food 136, 144-5highlights 135shopping 136, 149-51sights 138transportation 136

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

274

IND

EX O-U

Ulysses S Grant Home (Galena) 214

Union Station 55Union Stockyards Gate 201United Center 165Unity Temple (Oak Park)

207University of Chicago 195,

198, 199Uptown 43, 125-34, 125,

302accommodations 227-8drinking & nightlife 126,

132-3entertainment 126, 133food 126, 127-9, 132highlights 125shopping 133-4sights 127sports & activities 134transportation 126

US Cellular Field 204-5, 248

Vvegan & vegetarian

travelers 28Victory Monument 202vintage shops 34, 149visas 268visual arts 253-4

Wwalking tours 263-4walks

Gold Coast 90, 90Hyde Park & South Side

196, 196Lincoln Park 102, 102Lincoln Square 116-17, 117Logan Square &

Humboldt Park 156-7, 157

Loop, the 58-9, 59West Loop 170-1, 170

Washington Square 86, 90water taxis 262Water Tower 85, 91Water Works Pumping

Station 86Waters, Muddy 184, 200,

255Wax Trax! 257weather 15, 21, 22websites

accommodations 15, 216architecture 244drinking & nightlife 30entertainment 32food 27, 251

gay & lesbian travelers 38

planning 14shopping 34sports & activities

36, 247Wells, Ida B 202 West, Kanye 256West Loop 13

drinking & nightlife 174-5

food 166-7, 171-2sights 165-6walks 170-1, 170

Wicker Park 137Wicker Park (area) 43,

135-51, 135, 304-5accommodations 228-9drinking & nightlife 136,

146-7entertainment 148-9food 136, 138-41, 144highlights 135shopping 136, 149-51sights 137-8transportation 136

William K Kimball House 185

William Rainey Harper Memorial Library 197

Willie Dixon’s Blues Heaven 184

Willis Tower 9, 51, 8, 51wineries 213Wright, Frank Lloyd 19, 86,

194, 207, 243, 246Wrigley Building 70Wrigley Field 9, 111-12, 114,

9, 111, 114, 115Wrigley Square 48Wrigleyville 43, 109-24,

109, 300-1accommodations 226-7drinking & nightlife 110,

118-20entertainment 110,

120-2food 110, 113, 116, 118highlights 9, 109, 111-12shopping 122-4sights 111-13sports & activities 124transportation 110walks 116-17, 117

ZZhou B Art Center

200-1

5 EATING

111 Main (Galena) 214

AAcre 132Alinea 103-4Alliance Bakery 140Aloha Eats 103Aloha Poke Co 60Al’s #1 Italian Beef 173Andie’s 132Andy’s Thai Kitchen 113Artopolis Bakery & Cafe 171Avec 171

BBa Le Bakery 129Balena 103Bandera 77Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits

(Logan Square) 155Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits

(Ravenswood) 113Bari Foods 144Beatrix 76Belly Shack 140Big Jones 129Big Star Taqueria 139Billy Goat Tavern 74Bistro Campagne 116Bite Cafe 145Black Dog Gelato 144-5Blackbird 172, 252Boeufhaus 145Boka 104Bourgeois Pig 99

CCafe Ba-Ba-Reeba! 103Cafe Iberico 76Cafe Jumping Bean 173Cafecito 58Chez Joel 173Chicago Chop House 77Chicago Curry House 186-7Chicago Diner (Lake View)

113, 116Chicago Diner (Logan

Square) 156Chilam Balam 118Clark Street Dog 116Comet Cafe

(Milwaukee) 211Crane’s Pie Pantry

(Fennville) 213Crisp 113

DDon Pedro Carnitas 173Donut Delight 156, 157Do-Rite Donuts 61Doughnut Vault 74Dove’s Luncheonette 141Duck Duck Goat 171Duck Inn 203Dusek’s 174

EEataly 76Eggsperience 75Enoteca Roma 141Epic Burger 186

FFalafill 116Fat Rice 160-1Feed 156First Slice 128-9Flamingo Pizza (Indiana

Dunes) 209Flo 144Flo & Santos 186Floriole Cafe 103Foodlife 87Francesca’s on Chestnut 87French Market 60Frietkoten 60Fritz and Frites (Galena)

214Frontera Grill 77Fumare Meats 60

GGage 61Gene & Georgetti 77Gibson’s 87Gino’s East 76Giordano’s 75Giordano’s Navy Pier 76Girl and the Goat 172Glazed and Infused 167Graham Elliot Bistro 172Great Lakes Cafe

(Indiana Dunes) 209Green Door Tavern 75Green Zebra 145

HHai Yen 132Handlebar 139-40Hemmingway’s Bistro (Oak

Park) 207-8Hendrickx Belgian Bread

Crafter 87

275IN

DEX E

AT

ING

Hideout 148Home Bistro 116, 118Honey Butter Fried Chicken

155Honky Tonk BBQ 174Hoosier Mama Pie

Company 144Hopleaf 129Hot G Dog 128

IIrazu 138

JJin Ju 129Joy Yee’s Noodle Shop 187

KKendall College Dining

Room 144Kitchen Chicago 75-6Kopi, A Traveler’s Cafe 129Kuma’s Corner 155

LLa Fournette 104La Pasadita 140Lao Sze Chuan 187Lawrence’s Fisheries 187Lazo’s Tacos 141Le Colonial 87Lem’s Bar-B-Q House 203Letizia’s Natural Bakery

140Little Goat 167Longman & Eagle 160Lou Malnati’s (Near

North) 74Lou Malnati’s (South

Loop) 186Lou Mitchell’s 166-7Lucrezia (Indiana Dunes)

209Lula Cafe 160, 159

MMana Food Bar 141Manny’s Deli 167Margie’s 139Mariano’s 170-1Mario’s 173Medici 202-3

Meli Cafe 167Mercat a la Planxa 187mfk 118Mia Francesca 118Mike Ditka’s Restaurant 91Milk & Honey 141Milwaukee Public Market

(Milwaukee) 211-12Mindy’s Hot Chocolate 141Mirai Sushi 144Morton’s 91Mr Beef 74-5Mr Brown’s Lounge 145Mr Greek Gyros 167Mysore Woodlands 128

NNana 203Nando’s Peri-Peri 58Native Foods Cafe 60Next 172Nha Hang Viet Nam 129NoMi 77

OOasis 60Old Jerusalem 104

PPalms Grill Cafe (Atlanta)

208Papa’s Cache Sabroso 155Parachute 160Parson’s Chicken and

Fish 156Parthenon 171-2Pastoral 60Patio at Cafe Brauer 103Pequod’s Pizza 99Phil’s Bar & Grille

(Saugatuck) 213Phoenix 187Piece 141Pizano’s (Gold Coast) 87Pizano’s (Loop) 60Pizzeria Uno 76Pleasant House 173Podhalanka 141Portillo’s 75Pub Royale 138Publican 172Publican Quality Meats

167, 170Purple Pig 75

RReno 155-6RJ Grunts 103

Rosebud 173Ruxbin 145

SSabri Nihari 128Saigon Sisters 60Saint Lou’s Assembly 171Salpicon 104Schwa 144Seven Lions 61Shake Shack 60-1Shaw’s Crab House 77Signature Room at the

95th 91Small Cheval 139Smoque 160Soul Vegetarian

East 203Sprinkles Cupcakes 87Stan’s Donuts 139, 143Sultan’s Market (Lincoln

Park) 99, 103Sultan’s Market (Wicker

Park) 140Sunda 78Swedish Bakery 128Sweet Maple Cafe 172-3Sweet Station 187

TTango Sur 118Tank Noodle 129Tecalitlan 145Tempo Cafe 87Thai Pastry 132Tiztal Cafe 127-8Topolobampo 77Trattoria No 10 61Trenchermen 144Tru 77-8Tufano’s Vernon Park

Tap 173Tweet 129Twin Anchors 104Twisted Spoke 145

UUdupi Palace 128

VValois Cafeteria 202Vegan Now 60Victory’s Banner 113Vienna Beef Factory Store

& Cafe 140Village Tap 116

WWashburne Cafe 61Wieners Circle 103Wishbone 167

XXoco 74

YYolk 186Yoshi’s Cafe 118Yusho 160

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

@mosphere 1333 Arts Club Cafe 92

AAlive One 105Argo Tea 62Aviary 174

BBar Pastoral 119Beauty Bar 147Beer Bistro 175Beer Garden 78Begyle Brewing 119Berghoff 61Berlin 120Bernice’s Tavern 203-4Best Place (Milwaukee) 212Big Chicks 132Billy Sunday 161Brehon Pub 78

CCalifornia Clipper 161Chicago Brauhaus 120Cindy’s 62City Winery 174-5Clark Street Ale House 78Closet 120Cole’s 161Coq d’Or 91, 92Crew 132Cruz Blanca 174Cyrano’s Cafe & Wine

Bar 62

DDanny’s 146Debonair Social Club 147

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

276

IND

EX DR

INK

ING

& N

IGH

TLIFE

Delilah’s 104-5Dollop 78Duke of Perth 119

EEd & Jean’s 146Eva’s Cafe 105

FFilter 146Flamingo Pizza (Indiana

Dunes) 209Forbidden Root 147

GGingerman Tavern 118Globe Pub 119Gold Star Bar 146Goose Island Brewery 174Goose Island Brewpub 105Guthrie’s 119

HHalf Acre Tap Room

116, 118Hamburger Mary’s 132Happy Village 147Harry Caray’s Tavern 78Haymarket Pub & Brewery

170, 174Henry’s 78Huettenbar 117Hungry Brain 119Hydrate 120

IInnertown Pub 147Intelligentsia Coffee 62

JJ Parker 105Jimmy’s Woodlawn Tap 203Johnny’s Ice House East

175

KKasey’s Tavern 188

LL&L Tavern 120La Catrina Cafe 175Late Bar 161Little Branch Cafe 188Lodge 92Lost Lake 161Lush Wine and Spirits 147

MMap Room 146Maria’s Packaged Goods &

Community Bar 203Matchbox 147Miller’s Pub 62Monk’s Pub 61-2Murphy’s Bleachers 120

OOla’s Liquor 147Old Town Ale House 104

PPlaza at Park Grill 62Pump Room 92

QQuenchers Saloon 146

RRainbo Club 146Revolution Brewing 161Richard’s Bar 147RM Champagne Salon 174Rose’s Lounge 105

SSaugatuck Brewing

Company (Saugatuck) 213

Schaller’s Pump 203Scofflaw 161Sidetrack 120Signature Lounge 91-2Simone’s 175Simon’s 132Skylark 175Sluggers 120, 115Small Bar 162Smart Bar 119SoFo Tap 132-3Sound-Bar 78Southport Lanes 119Spoke & Bird 187-8Spyner’s 120

TTen Cat Tavern 119Terrace at Trump Tower

78-9Toni Patisserie & Cafe 61

UUber Tap Room

(Milwaukee) 212

VVFW Hall (Galena) 214Vice District Brewing 188Violet Hour 146

WWatershed 78Weathermark Tavern 188Weeds 105Whirlaway Lounge 162Wormhole Coffee 146

3 ENTERTAINMENT

AAbout Face Theatre 38American Theater

Company 122Andy’s 79Annoyance Theatre 121Apollo Theater 107Auditorium Theatre 65

BBeat Kitchen 122Black Ensemble Theater

133Blue Chicago 79BLUES 106Buddy Guy’s Legends

188, 11

CCadillac Palace Theatre 65Carol’s Pub 133Chicago Chamber

Musicians 65Chicago Children’s Theatre

92Chicago Dramatists

Theatre 148Chicago Opera Theater

65Chicago Shakespeare

Theater 79Chicago Sinfonietta 64Chicago Symphony

Orchestra 63Chicago Theatre 63, 255Chopin Theatre 148Civic Orchestra of Chicago

64Constellation 121Corn Productions 122Court Theatre 204CSz Theater 121-2

DDance Center at Columbia

College 189Davenport’s Piano Bar &

Cabaret 149

EElastic Arts Foundation 162Emerald City Theatre

Company 121Empty Bottle 148

FFacets Multimedia 106

GGene Siskel Film Center 63Goodman Theatre 63Grant Park Orchestra 62-3Green Mill 133, 130

HHarris Theater for Music

and Dance 64Hideout 148House of Blues 79House Theatre 148Howl at the Moon 79Hubbard Street Dance

Chicago 63

IIMAX Theater 69International Screenings

Program 64iO Theater 105

JJazz Showcase 188Joffrey Ballet 64

KKingston Mines 106

LLaugh Factory Chicago 122Lincoln Hall 106Logan Theatre 162Lookingglass Theatre

Company 92Lyric Opera of Chicago 63

MMartyrs’ 121Metro 120

27 7IN

DEX E

NT

ER

TAIN

ME

NT

Music Box Theatre 121Music of the Baroque 64

NNeo-Futurists 133

OOld Town School of Folk

Music 116, 121Oriental Theatre 65

PPaper Machete 133Pavilion at Northerly

Island 189Phyllis’ Musical Inn 148PrivateBank Theatre 65Promontory 204Prop Thtr 162

RReggies Rock Club 188-9Rosa’s Lounge 162Royal George Theatre 106-7

SSchubas 121Second City 105Steppenwolf Theatre 105-6Subterranean 148SummerDance 188

TThalia Hall 175Theater on the Lake 107Trap Door Theatre 148

UUIC Pavilion 175Underground Wonder

Bar 79UP Comedy Club 106Uptown Poetry Slam 133

VVic Theatre 122Victory Gardens Theater

106

WWeeds Poetry Night 106

Whistler 162

ZZanies 106Zebra Lounge 92-3

7 SHOPPING

5 S Wabash Ave 6657th Street Books 204900 N Michigan 94

AAfter School Matters Store

65-6Aji Ichiban 189Akira 150Alamo Shoes 134American Girl Place 93Andersonville Galleria 134Apple Store (Near North)

80Apple Store (Old Town) 108Architectural Artifacts 122Athenian Candle Co 176

BBarker & Meowsky 107-8Barneys New York 90, 93Beadniks 151Belmont Army Surplus 123Best Buy 93Block 37 66Blommer Chocolate

Store 176Book Cellar 117Brown Elephant Resale

Shop 123Buddhist Temple Gift

Shop 189Buffalo Exchange 150Burberry 80Burton Snowboards 93

CCentral Camera 66Chicago Architecture

Foundation Shop 65Chicago Comics 122Chopping Block 123City Lit 156Crate & Barrel 80Crossroads Trading Co 107

DDave’s Records 107Dusty Groove 149

EEarly to Bed 134Egoist Underwear 123

FFlight 001 150Fullerton Beach 108

GGarrett Popcorn 79Gene’s Sausage Shop 117Giftland 189Gramaphone Records 108Greenheart Shop 107Groove Distribution 176-7

HH&M 94Handmade Market 150Hershey’s 93Hoypoloi 189

JJil Sander 94Jimmy Choo 93John Fluevog Shoes 150-1

KKnee Deep Vintage 176Kokorokoko 149-50

LLego Store 93Logan Hardware 162Logan Square Farmers

Market 154Lori’s 108

MMariano’s 170-1Maxwell Street Market 176Merz Apothecary 116-17Midwest Pro Sound 124Mildblend Supply Co 151Modern Cooperative 175Myopic Books 150, 142

NNike Chicago 79

OOpen Books 170, 175-6Optimo Hats 65

PPaper Doll 151Penelope’s 150Permanent Records 149Powell’s 204

QQuimby’s 149

RRandolph Street Market

176Reckless Records 149Red Balloon Co 151Rotofugi 107

SSandmeyer’s Bookstore

189Scout 134Seminary Co-op Bookstore

204ShopColumbia 189Shops at North Bridge 80Shuga Records 150Spice House 107Sports World 123Strange Cargo 122

TTarget 65Timeless Toys 117TopShop 94T-Shirt Deli 150

UUna Mae’s 149Unabridged Bookstore 123Uncle Dan’s 123Uniqlo 93Uprise Skateboards 150US #1 151

VVosges Haut-Chocolat

107

WWater Tower Place 93Wicker Park Secret Agent

Supply Co 149Windward Sports 123Wolfbait & B-girls 156,

162, 158Women & Children First

134

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

278

IND

EX SH

OP

PIN

G

Woolly Mammoth Antiques & Oddities 133-4

Working Bikes Cooperative 177

YYesterday 124

ZZara 80

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

12th Street Beach 19057th Street Beach 20563rd Street Beach 205

BBike Chicago 66Bike Chicago Navy Pier 80Bobby’s Bike Hike 80

CCamp Stop General Store

(Indiana Dunes) 209Chicago Bears 189-90,

249, 249Chicago Blackhawks

177, 249Chicago Bulls 177, 248Chicago Chinese Cultural

Institute 186Chicago Cubs 124, 247-8Chicago Fire 204, 249Chicago White Sox 204-5

DDiversey Driving Range 108Diversey-River Bowl 124

FFever River Outfitters

(Galena) 214Fullerton Beach 108

JJackson Park Golf Course

205

KKayak Chicago 134

MMcCormick Tribune Ice

Rink 66McDonald’s Cycle Center 48

Millennium Park Workouts 66

Miller Park (Milwaukee) 212Montrose Beach 134, 130-1Mt Baldhead

(Saugatuck) 213

NNorth Avenue Beach 108,

100

OOak Street Beach 90-1,

94, 91Ohio St Beach 80, 73Oval Beach (Saugatuck) 213

PPilsen Mural Tours 177

SSaugatuck Chain Ferry

(Saugatuck) 213Shenandoah Riding Center

(Galena) 214Sledding Hill 190Stagecoach Trail

(Galena) 214Sydney R Marovitz Golf

Course 124

UUrban Kayaks 66

WWateriders 94Waveland Bowl 124West Beach (Indiana

Dunes) 209Wilson Skate Park 134

4 SLEEPING

AAC Hotel Chicago

Downtown 221Acme Hotel 221Aloft Chicago City Center

222Aloft Chicago O’Hare 228

BBayside Inn (Saugatuck)

213Benedictine B&B 230Best Western Grant Park

230

Best Western Hawthorne Terrace 227

Best Western River North 221

Brewhouse Inn & Suites (Milwaukee) 212

Buckingham Athletic Club Hotel 218

CCentral Loop Hotel 218Chicago Getaway Hostel

226Chicago Marriott at

Medical District/UIC 229Chicago Marriott Hotel 224Chicago Parthenon Hostel

229City Suites Hotel 227

DDays Inn Lincoln Park

North 227DeSoto House Hotel

(Galena) 214Doubletree Magnificent

Mile 221Drake Hotel 225Dunewood Campground

(Indiana Dunes) 209

EEmbassy Suites Chicago –

Downtown 223Embassy Suites Chicago –

Lakefront 223Essex Inn 230

FFairmont 220Freehand Chicago 220-1

GGodfrey Hotel 221Grant Hills Motel (Galena)

214Guesthouse Hotel 227-8

HHampton Inn & Suites

Chicago Downtown 223Hampton Inn Chicago

Downtown/N Loop 218Hampton Majestic Chicago

Theater District 218Hard Rock Hotel Chicago

219-20HI-Chicago 218Hilton Chicago 230

Hilton Garden Inn (BedfordPark) 228Hilton Garden Inn (Near

North) 222Holiday Jones 228Hotel Allegro 219Hotel Blake Chicago 220Hotel Burnham 218Hotel Cass 221-2Hotel Felix 221Hotel Indigo 224Hotel Lincoln 226Hotel Monaco 219Hotel Palomar 222House 5863 227House of Two Urns Bed &

Breakfast 229Hyatt Regency Chicago

220Hyatt Regency McCormick

Place 229-30

IIHSP Chicago Hostel 228-9Indiana Dunes State Park

Campground (Indiana Dunes) 209

Inn of Chicago 222InterContinental Chicago

223Iron Horse Hotel

(Milwaukee) 212Ivy Hotel 221

JJames 222

KKinzie Hotel 222-3

LLa Quinta Chicago –

Lake Shore 230Langham Hotel 223Longman & Eagle 229

MMajestic Hotel 227

OO’Hare Hilton 228Ohio House Motel 222Old Chicago Inn 227

PPalmer House Hilton 219Park Hyatt 223

279IN

DEX S

PO

RT

S &

AC

TIV

ITIE

S

Peninsula 223Pines Motorlodge

(Douglas) 213Public 225

RRadisson Blu Aqua Hotel

219Raffaello Hotel 225Red Roof Inn 222Renaissance Blackstone

Hotel 230Renaissance Chicago

Downtown Hotel 220

Residence Inn Chicago Downtown 224

Ruby Room 229

SSilversmith 219Sleep Inn 228Sofitel Chicago Water

Tower 225Swissôtel Chicago 220

TTravelodge Chicago

Downtown 230

Tremont Hotel 225Trump Hotel & Tower 224Tryon Farm Guesthouse

(Indiana Dunes) 209-10

UUrban Holiday Lofts 228

VVilla Toscana 227Virgin Hotel 218-19

WW Chicago City Center 220W Chicago Lakeshore 224Waldorf Astoria Chicago

225Warwick Allerton Hotel 224Westin Michigan Avenue

225-6Whitehall Hotel 225Wicker Park Inn 229Willows Hotel 226-7Wit 219Wrigley Hostel 226

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

280

IND

EX SLE

EP

ING

281N

OTES

282

NO

TES

283N

OTES

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

Boston T stationBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Chicago Maps

284 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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North Branch Chicago River

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GooseIsland

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MAP INDEX1 The Loop (p286)

2 Near North (p290)

3 Navy Pier (p293)

4 Gold Coast (p294)

5 Lincoln Park & Old Town (p296)

6 Lake View & Wrigleyville (p300)

7 Andersonville & Uptown (p302)

8 Wicker Park, Bucktown & Ukrainian Village (p304)

9 Logan Square & Humboldt Park (p308)

10 Near West Side & Pilsen (p310)

11 South Loop & Near South Side (p314)

12 Lincoln Square (p316)

13 Bridgeport & Bronzeville (p317)

14 Hyde Park & South Side (p318)

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æ Top Sights (p46) 31 Pritzker Pavilion..........................................G3 1 Art Institute of Chicago.............................. F5 32 Reliance Building........................................ E3 2 Millennium Park ......................................... G4 33 Riverwalk ...................................................... F1 3 Willis Tower .................................................C5 34 Rookery........................................................D5 35 Route 66 Sign ..............................................F5 æ Sights (p52) Santa Fe Building ................................(see 7) 4 Aqua Tower .................................................G2 36 Sullivan Center ........................................... E4 5 BP Bridge .....................................................G3 37 Union Station .............................................. A5 6 Buckingham Fountain............................... H6 38 Untitled ........................................................D3 7 Chicago Architecture

Foundation................................................ F5 ú Eating (p58) 8 Chicago Board of Trade.............................D5 39 Cafecito ....................................................... E6 9 Chicago Cultural Center ............................F3 40 Do-Rite Donuts ...........................................D2 10 Chicago Design Museum...........................E3 41 French Market ............................................ A3 11 Chicago Federal Center.............................E5 42 Gage ............................................................. F4 12 Cloud Gate................................................... F3 43 Nando's Peri-Peri ....................................... E4 13 Crown Fountain...........................................F4 44 Native Foods Cafe...................................... D5 14 Daley Plaza ..................................................D3 45 Oasis .............................................................F3 15 Fine Arts Building........................................F6 46 Pastoral.........................................................F2 16 Flamingo ......................................................D5 47 Pizano's ....................................................... F4 17 Four Seasons...............................................D4 48 Seven Lions..................................................F5 18 Grant Park................................................... H6 49 Shake Shack ............................................... F4 19 Great Lawn ..................................................G3 50 Trattoria No 10............................................D3 20 Harold Washington Library 51 Washburne Cafe......................................... C5 Center........................................................E6

21 Kluczynski Building ....................................D5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p61) 22 Lurie Garden............................................... G4 52 Argo Tea ...................................................... E2 23 Maggie Daley Park..................................... H3 53 Berghoff....................................................... E5 24 Marquette Building.....................................D5 Cindy's ............................................... (see 49) 25 Marshall Field Building...............................E3 54 Cyrano's Cafe & Wine Bar..........................G1 26 Miró's Chicago ............................................D3 55 Intelligentsia Coffee....................................F3 27 Monadnock Building...................................D5 56 Miller's Pub.................................................. E5 28 Money Museum ..........................................C5 57 Monk's Pub..................................................C2 29 Monument with Standing Beast...............D2 58 Plaza at Park Grill ........................................F3 30 Nichols Bridgeway..................................... G4 59 Toni Patisserie & Cafe ................................F3

288

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ý Entertainment (p62) Ø Sports & Activities (p66) 60 Auditorium Theatre.................................... F6 76 Bike Chicago ...............................................G3 61 Cadillac Palace Theatre.............................C3 Chicago Architecture Chicago Chamber Musicians............ (see 9) Foundation ........................................(see 7) Chicago Opera Theater....................(see 66) 77 Chicago Greeter ..........................................F3 Chicago Sinfonietta..........................(see 62) InstaGreeter.......................................(see 77) 62 Chicago Symphony Orchestra.................. F5 78 McCormick Tribune Ice Rink .....................F3 63 Chicago Theatre .........................................E2 79 Mercury Cruises .......................................... F1 Civic Orchestra Of Chicago.............(see 62) 80 Millennium Park Workouts........................G3 64 Gene Siskel Film Center.............................E2 81 Urban Kayaks...............................................H1 65 Goodman Theatre.......................................D2

Grant Park Orchestra........................(see 31) ÿ Sleeping (p218) 66 Harris Theater for Music and 82 Buckingham Athletic Club Hotel..............D6 Dance ........................................................G3 83 Central Loop Hotel..................................... D5 Hot Tix ................................................ (see 10) 84 Fairmont ......................................................G2 67 Hot Tix ..........................................................F2 85 Hampton Inn Chicago Hubbard Street Dance Downtown/N Loop................................... F1 Chicago ...........................................(see 66) 86 Hampton Majestic Chicago International Screenings Theater District........................................ E4 Program ............................................ (see 9) 87 Hard Rock Hotel Chicago...........................F2 68 Joffrey Ballet ...............................................E2 HI-Chicago......................................... (see 39) 69 Lyric Opera of Chicago ..............................B3 88 Hotel Allegro ...............................................C3 Music of the Baroque.......................(see 66) 89 Hotel Blake Chicago...................................D6 70 Oriental Theatre..........................................E2 Hotel Burnham ................................. (see 32) 71 PrivateBank Theatre ..................................E4 90 Hotel Monaco...............................................F2 91 Hyatt Regency Chicago.............................. F1 þ Shopping (p65) 92 Palmer House Hilton.................................. E4 72 5 S Wabash Ave ..........................................F4 93 Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel...........................G2 73 After School Matters Store ....................... F2 94 Renaissance Chicago Downtown Block 37.............................................. (see 10) Hotel.......................................................... E2 74 Central Camera...........................................E5 95 Silversmith .................................................. E4 Chicago Architecture 96 Swissôtel Chicago.......................................H1 Foundation Shop ............................. (see 7) 97 Virgin Hotel...................................................F2 75 Optimo Hats ................................................D5 98 W Chicago City Center ..............................C5 Target.................................................(see 36) 99 Wit ................................................................ E2

289

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æ Sights (p70) ý Entertainment (p79) 1 Ann Nathan Gallery ....................................B2 45 Andy's ..........................................................D5 2 Carl Hammer Gallery..................................B2 46 Blue Chicago...............................................C4 3 Centennial Fountain ...................................G5 47 House of Blues............................................D6 4 Chicago Spire..............................................H5 48 Howl at the Moon ....................................... D5 5 Driehaus Museum.......................................E3 49 Underground Wonder Bar.........................C3 6 Holy Name Cathedral.................................D2

7 Magnificent Mile..........................................E3 þ Shopping (p79) 8 Marina City ..................................................D6 50 Apple Store ................................................. E3 9 Merchandise Mart ......................................B5 51 Burberry ...................................................... E3 10 Museum of Broadcast 52 Crate & Barrel ............................................. E3 Communications .....................................D5 53 Garrett Popcorn ......................................... E4 11 Poetry Foundation......................................C3 54 Nike Chicago............................................... E3 12 Richard Norton Gallery ..............................B5 55 Shops at North Bridge............................... E4 13 Tribune Tower.............................................E5 56 Zara .............................................................. E3 14 Trump Tower...............................................E5

15 Wrigley Building ..........................................E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p80) 57 Bobby's Bike Hike.......................................H4 ú Eating (p74) 58 Untouchable Gangster Tours ...................C4 16 Bandera........................................................E4 59 Weird Chicago Tours .................................C4 17 Beatrix ..........................................................C4 60 Wendella Boats........................................... E5 18 Billy Goat Tavern.........................................E5

19 Cafe Iberico .................................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p220) 20 Chicago Chop House..................................C3 61 AC Hotel Chicago Downtown.................... E3 21 Doughnut Vault ...........................................B5 62 Acme Hotel..................................................D4 22 Eataly............................................................E4 63 Aloft Chicago City Center..........................C4 23 Eggsperience...............................................D4 64 Best Western River North.........................C4 24 Gene & Georgetti ........................................B4 65 Chicago Marriott Hotel.............................. E4 25 Gino's East................................................... F2 66 Doubletree Magnificent Mile.....................G4 26 Giordano's....................................................E2 67 Embassy Suites Chicago – Downtown....D4 27 Green Door Tavern .....................................A3 68 Embassy Suites Chicago – Lakefront .....G4 28 Kitchen Chicago..........................................C6 69 Freehand Chicago......................................D4 29 Lou Malnati's ...............................................B5 70 Godfrey Hotel..............................................C3 30 Mr Beef.........................................................A3 71 Hampton Inn & Suites Chicago NoMi ...................................................(see 83) Downtown ................................................ D5 31 Pizzeria Uno.................................................D4 72 Hilton Garden Inn .......................................D4 32 Portillo's .......................................................C3 73 Hotel Cass ...................................................D3 33 Purple Pig.....................................................E4 74 Hotel Felix....................................................C3 34 Shaw's Crab House ....................................D5 75 Hotel Palomar.............................................D4 35 Sunda ...........................................................C4 76 Inn of Chicago............................................. F4 36 Topolobampo/Frontera Grill ....................C5 77 InterContinental Chicago.......................... E4 37 Tru................................................................. F3 78 Ivy Hotel....................................................... F4 38 Xoco..............................................................C5 79 James........................................................... E4 80 Kinzie Hotel ................................................. D5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p78) 81 Langham Hotel ........................................... D5 39 Brehon Pub..................................................B2 82 Ohio House Motel.......................................C4 40 Clark Street Ale House...............................C2 83 Park Hyatt ................................................... E2 41 Dollop .......................................................... G4 84 Peninsula..................................................... E2 42 Henry's .........................................................D5 85 Red Roof Inn.................................................F3 43 Sound-Bar....................................................B3 Trump Hotel & Tower .......................(see 14) Terrace At Trump Tower ................. (see 14) 86 W Chicago Lakeshore................................H3 44 Watershed ...................................................D4 87 Warwick Allerton Hotel.............................. E3

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Ø Sports & Activities (p80) ú Eating (p76) 10 Bike Chicago Navy Pier .............................B3 5 Giordano's Navy Pier..................................B3 11 Ohio St Beach ............................................. A2 12 Seadog Speedboats................................... B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p78) 13 Shoreline Sightseeing................................B3 6 Beer Garden ................................................D3 14 Windy ...........................................................C3

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Eæ Top Sights (p83) ý Entertainment (p92) 1 360° Chicago........................ D6 25 Chicago Children's 2 Museum of Contemporary Theatre................................B5 Art ........................................E7 Hot Tix...........................(see 12) 26 Lookingglass Theatre æ Sights (p85) Company ............................D7 3 Archbishop's Residence ..... C2 27 Zebra Lounge........................C4 4 Charnley-Persky House ...... C3

5 Chicago Sports Museum .... D6 þ Shopping (p93) 6 City Gallery ............................D7 28 900 N Michigan ....................D6 7 Cyrus McCormick American Girl Mansion.............................. C2 Place.......................... (see 36) 8 International Museum of 29 Barneys New York ................C5 Surgical Science ............... C2 Best Buy.......................... (see 1) 9 Newberry Library................. B6 30 Burton Snowboards .............C6 10 Original Playboy Mansion ... C3 31 H&M .......................................D6 11 Washington Square............. B6 32 Hershey's...............................D7 Water Tower.................. (see 6) 33 Jil Sander...............................C5 12 Water Works Pumping 34 Jimmy Choo ..........................D5 Station.................................D7 Lego Store ................... (see 36) 35 TopShop ................................D6 ú Eating (p87) Uniqlo ........................... (see 35) Foodlife.........................(see 36) 36 Water Tower Place ...............D6 13 Francesca's on Chestnut .....E6

14 Gibson's .................................C5 Ø Sports & Activities (p94) 15 Hendrickx Belgian Bread 37 Oak Street Beach ................. E5 Crafter .................................D5

16 Le Colonial .............................C5 ÿ Sleeping (p224) 17 Mike Ditka's Restaurant...... D6 38 Drake Hotel............................D5 18 Morton's.................................C5 39 Hotel Indigo ...........................B4 19 Pizano's................................. C6 Public............................ (see 24) Signature Room at 40 Raffaello Hotel ...................... E6 the 95th........................(see 1) 41 Residence Inn Chicago 20 Sprinkles Cupcakes............. C6 Downtown........................... E6 21 Tempo Cafe .......................... C6 42 Sofitel Chicago Water Tower ..................................C6 û Drinking & Nightlife (p91) Tremont Hotel..............(see 17) 22 3 Arts Club Cafe....................B3 43 Waldorf Astoria Coq d'Or .......................(see 38) Chicago...............................C6 23 Lodge..................................... C4 44 Westin Michigan 24 Pump Room.......................... C3 Avenue ................................D6 Signature Lounge ..........(see 1) 45 Whitehall Hotel......................D6

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æ Top Sights (p97) 35 Old Town Ale House................................... F6 1 Lincoln Park.................................................G5 36 Rose's Lounge .............................................C1 37 Weeds ..........................................................D6 æ Sights (p98)

2 Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool............................. F3 ý Entertainment (p105) 3 Biograph Theater........................................D2 38 Apollo Theater ............................................ C2 4 Chicago History Museum .......................... F5 39 BLUES.......................................................... D2 5 Couch Mausoleum...................................... F5 40 Facets Multimedia...................................... A3 6 DePaul Art Museum ...................................C3 41 iO Theater....................................................C6 7 Farm-in-the-Zoo ......................................... F4 42 Kingston Mines ........................................... D2 8 Green City Market....................................... F5 43 Lincoln Hall.................................................. C2 9 Lincoln Park Conservatory........................ F3 44 Royal George Theatre................................ D5 10 Lincoln Park Zoo ......................................... F3 45 Second City..................................................F5 11 Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum ........... F2 46 Steppenwolf Theatre ................................. D5 12 St Valentine's Day Massacre Site.............E3 47 Theater on the Lake ...................................G2 13 Standing Lincoln Sculpture.......................G5 48 UP Comedy Club ........................................ F6 Victory Gardens Theater....................(see 3) ú Eating (p99) Weeds Poetry Night ......................... (see 37) 14 Alinea............................................................D5 49 Zanies........................................................... F6 15 Aloha Eats....................................................E2

16 Balena...........................................................D5 þ Shopping (p107) 17 Boka..............................................................D5 50 Apple Store .................................................D6 18 Bourgeois Pig ..............................................D2 51 Barker & Meowsky .....................................C4 19 Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!.....................................D4 52 Crossroads Trading Co ..............................D1 20 Floriole Cafe.................................................B3 53 Dave's Records............................................D1 21 La Fournette ................................................ F6 54 Gramaphone Records ................................D1 22 Old Jerusalem ............................................. F6 55 Greenheart Shop.........................................F5 23 Patio at Cafe Brauer ................................... F4 56 Lori's.............................................................D4 24 Pequod's Pizza............................................A3 57 Rotofugi ........................................................B1 25 RJ Grunts ..................................................... F4 58 Spice House ................................................ F6 26 Salpicon ....................................................... F7 59 Vosges Haut-Chocolat...............................C4 27 Sultan's Market...........................................E2

28 Twin Anchors............................................... E5 Ø Sports & Activities (p108) 29 Wieners Circle ............................................. D1 Chicago History Museum Tours .......(see 4) 60 Diversey Driving Range .............................. F1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p104) 61 Fullerton Beach ..........................................G2 30 Alive One ...................................................... D1 62 North Avenue Beach..................................H5 31 Delilah's........................................................ C1

32 Eva's Cafe ....................................................E6 ÿ Sleeping (p226) 33 Goose Island Brewpub ...............................C5 63 Chicago Getaway Hostel ........................... D2 34 J Parker ........................................................ F5 Hotel Lincoln ..................................... (see 34)

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æ Top Sights (p111) ý Entertainment (p120) 1 Wrigley Field ................................................ F3 32 American Theater Company .................... B2 33 Annoyance Theatre.................................... G5 æ Sights (p113) 34 Beat Kitchen................................................ A5 2 Alta Vista Terrace....................................... F2 35 CSz Theater .................................................F5 3 Boystown .....................................................H5 36 Emerald City Theatre Company............... D7 4 Center on Halsted.......................................G3 37 Laugh Factory Chicago..............................H5 38 Martyrs' ....................................................... B2 ú Eating (p113) 39 Metro............................................................ E3 5 Andy's Thai Kitchen.................................... F6 40 Music Box Theatre ..................................... D3 6 Chicago Diner............................................. G4 41 Schubas....................................................... D5 7 Chilam Balam............................................. H6 42 Vic Theatre...................................................F5 8 Clark Street Dog ........................................ G6

9 Crisp ............................................................ H6 þ Shopping (p122) 10 Falafill ...........................................................H5 43 Belmont Army Surplus..............................G5 11 Home Bistro ............................................... G4 44 Brown Elephant Resale Shop ...................D6 12 Mia Francesca.............................................G5 45 Chicago Comics...........................................F5 13 Tango Sur ....................................................D2 46 Egoist Underwear.......................................G4 14 Victory's Banner .........................................A4 47 Midwest Pro Sound.................................... C5 15 Village Tap ...................................................A4 48 Sports World................................................F3 16 Yoshi's Cafe.................................................G5 49 Strange Cargo............................................. F4 50 Unabridged Bookstore ..............................H5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p118) 51 Uncle Dan's .................................................D3 17 Bar Pastoral................................................ H6 52 Windward Sports.........................................F5 18 Begyle Brewing ........................................... B1 53 Yesterday .................................................... E3 19 Berlin ............................................................ F5

20 Closet ...........................................................H5 Ø Sports & Activities (p124) 21 Duke of Perth...............................................H7 Chicago Cubs....................................... (see 1) 22 Gingerman Tavern......................................E3 54 Sydney R Marovitz Golf Course ...............H2 23 Globe Pub .................................................... A1

24 Guthrie's.......................................................E3 ÿ Sleeping (p226) 25 Hydrate ....................................................... G4 55 Best Western Hawthorne Terrace...........H4 26 L&L Tavern ..................................................G5 56 City Suites Hotel..........................................F5 27 Murphy's Bleachers.................................... F3 57 Days Inn Lincoln Park North.....................H7 28 Sidetrack..................................................... G4 58 Majestic Hotel.............................................H3 29 Sluggers ....................................................... F3 59 Old Chicago Inn ...........................................F5 Smart Bar ..........................................(see 39) 60 Villa Toscana...............................................G4 30 Southport Lanes.........................................D5 61 Willows Hotel ..............................................H7 31 Ten Cat Tavern............................................C2 62 Wrigley Hostel............................................. F4

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NANDERSONVILLE & UPTOWN æ Sights (p127) 22 Big Chicks....................................................D4 1 Argyle Street ...............................................C4 23 Crew .............................................................C5 2 Essanay Studios..........................................B4 24 Hamburger Mary's ..................................... A2 3 Graceland Cemetery..................................C7 25 Simon's........................................................ A3 4 Swedish American Museum Center ........A3 26 SoFo Tap ..................................................... A4

ú Eating (p127) ý Entertainment (p133) 5 Acre ..............................................................A2 27 Black Ensemble Theater ........................... A7 6 Andie's..........................................................A2 28 Carol's Pub..................................................B6 7 Ba Le Bakery ...............................................C4 29 Green Mill .................................................... C5 8 Big Jones......................................................A2 30 Neo-Futurists.............................................. A3 9 First Slice .....................................................A2 Paper Machete ................................. (see 29) 10 Hai Yen .........................................................D4 Uptown Poetry Slam........................ (see 29) 11 Hopleaf.........................................................A3

12 Hot G Dog.....................................................A4 þ Shopping (p133) 13 Jin Ju.............................................................A3 31 Alamo Shoes............................................... A2 14 Kopi, A Traveler's Cafe...............................A2 32 Andersonville Galleria................................ A2 15 Nha Hang Viet Nam....................................D4 33 Early to Bed................................................. A4 16 Swedish Bakery ..........................................A2 34 Scout............................................................ A3 17 Tank Noodle ................................................C4 35 Women & Children First ............................ A3 18 Thai Pastry...................................................C4 36 Woolly Mammoth Antiques & 19 Tiztal Cafe....................................................B6 Oddities..................................................... A3 20 Tweet............................................................D4

ÿ Sleeping (p227) û Drinking & Nightlife (p132) 37 Guesthouse Hotel....................................... A4 21 @mosphere .................................................A2

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D

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308

logAN

sQUArE & H

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lDT PArK LOGAN SQUARE & HUMBOLDT PARK æ Sights (p154) û Drinking & Nightlife (p161) 1 Busy Beaver Button Museum...................B4 21 Billy Sunday................................................. B2 2 Formal Garden ............................................B6 22 California Clipper........................................ C7 3 Galerie F .......................................................C3 23 Cole's ...........................................................C3 4 Humboldt Park............................................B6 24 Lost Lake ......................................................B1 5 Humboldt Park Boathouse........................C6 25 Quenchers Saloon...................................... D2 6 Illinois Centennial Memorial Column.......B2 26 Revolution Brewing.................................... C3 7 Logan Square Farmers Market.................B2 27 Scofflaw.......................................................B4 8 National Museum of Puerto Rican Arts 28 Small Bar ......................................................B1 & Culture...................................................B6 29 Whirlaway Lounge...................................... B2 9 Paseo Boricua .............................................D6

ý Entertainment (p162) ú Eating (p155) 30 Elastic Arts Foundation..............................A1 10 Bang Bang Pie & Biscuits ..........................C4 31 Logan Theatre............................................. B2 11 Chicago Diner..............................................C3 32 Rosa's Lounge ............................................ A4 12 Donut Delight ..............................................C4 33 Whistler........................................................C2 13 Fat Rice ........................................................ C1

14 Feed..............................................................C7 þ Shopping (p162) 15 Longman & Eagle........................................B2 34 City Lit Books.............................................. B2 16 Lula Cafe ......................................................B2 35 Logan Hardware.........................................D2 17 Papa's Cache Sabroso...............................D6 36 Wolfbait & B-girls ....................................... B2 18 Parson's Chicken and Fish ........................C4

19 Reno..............................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p229) 20 Yusho............................................................ B1 Longman & Eagle ..............................(see 15)

309

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319

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Feb 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 227 1© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our WriterKarla ZimmermanKarla lives in Chicago, where she has been eating deep-dish pizza (Giordano’s preferred) and yelling at the Cubs for more than 25 years. She never tires of the city’s sky-high architecture, global neighborhoods and character-filled dive bars, though she does tire of its wind-bashed winters. Karla writes about travel for books, magazines and websites. She has written several Lonely Planet guides, covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. To learn more, follow her on Instagram and Twitter (@karlazimmerman).

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’