You can make it with

Simple Pictu re Framing

Professional picture framing is expensive. The Triton Workcentreenables you to cut the perfect mitres needed for picture framing,and use of the Router and Jigsaw Table makes it possible toshape your own simple mouldings.This project sheet differs from the others in that no dimensionsare provided. Instead, we have provided you with a range ofprocedural options to guide you in making the picture frame thatbest meets your needs.

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Tool1. ESSENTIAL1. Making your picture f rame f rom purchased moulding: Triton Workcentre and your power saw, f itted with a 40 or 60

tooth blade (essential for clean mitre cuts), mitre square or combination square, hammer, nail punch, sandpaper.2. Shaping your own mouldings: Triton Accessory Router and Jigsaw Table, your router, and a selection of decorative

router cutters.3. A jig for working on end grain is needed if you intend to strengthen the mitres by use of a spline (See the Jig Guide

for details of the jig). A small handsaw will also be necessary to trim the splines.2. USEFUL: Mitre corner clamps to aid assembly, an extension fence mounted onto Face A of the double-sidedprotractor, and a mitred stop block, to ensure accurate cutting to length.

@ Copyright Triton Manufacturing and Design Co. Pty. Ltd. /ssue No. 2, July 1989

Construction Details

Material Shoppinq List1. WOOD Any seasoned, straight-grained timber issuitable. To determine the total length of your framematerial, the standard equation is: Twice the lengthplus twice the width of the picture, plus eight times thewidth of the moulding. Add about 300-500mm forcutting and waste. (Figure 1.)

2. FASTENING Wood glue (PVA or similar) and25mm panel pins usually hold a picture frametogether. The mitred corners can be strengthened bythe addition of splines, (as shown in Step 9 & 10).

3. OTHER All prints or paintings on paper, (asopposed to canvas) should be protected by use of arnat board and glass. A suitable backing board is alsoneeded. ("Mount Board" is generally available from artsupply shops). Brown paper and masking tape protectthe back of the picture from dust entrv.

1. This project sheet deals only with themaking of a timber picture frame; mostlibraries have books on mat and glass cutting,but you may prefer to have this doneprofessionally.

2. When shaping mouldings, experiment onscrap pieces of wood to determine attractivecombinations of decorative cuts.

I Shaping The MouldingI Mouldings can be cut easily and quickly- using the Router and Jigsaw table in theShaper Table mode.

Figure 2 displays four examples from the range ofdecorative cutters available from our CustomerService Department.Also, in some cases, it is possible to turn yourwood onto its edge or face down to achievedifferent effects.Quite complex frame moulding can be created.The frame illustrated on the title page was madeusing a large core box bit for the coving cut, aRoman Ogee bit and a Rounding-over bit.(Figure 3) Take care to ensure that the workpiecehas adequate support when cutting complexmouldings.

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Picture

FIGURE 1

Shaping should always be done with yourfences in line. Do not attempt to cut thecomplete profile in one pass, but rather

make two or three shallow passes, with the cutterinitially well back between the fences. As each cutis made, reset the fences until the cutter iscompletely proud for the final pass.

The use of a cutter with a ball bearing or highspeed steel pilot - in combination with the routertable fences - further ensures safe and accuratecutting.

Rebating the MouldingA rebate is needed in the back of themoulding deep enough to house the glass,

mat, picture and backing board assembly, plus alittle extra to drive fixing brads into. The rebatewidth should be about 8-10mm.

This rebate can be cut in two ways. The first is touse a straight cut router bit, the fences in line.Progressively widen the rebate by moving thefences back after each cut. The cutter can be setat full height, as long as only about half thediameter of the cutter is actually in the timber.

Notes

Two most important safety points in shapertable operation are:o You must always feed against the direction

of rotation, never with it.. Never trail your fingers behind the

workpiece in the vicinity of the cutter.

ROMAN ROUNDING 45O COVE BITOGEE BIT OVER CHAMFERING

CARBIDETIPPED

FIGURE 2

Alternatively, cut the rebate using your sawwith the Workcentre set up in the table sawmode.

The first cuts should always be made on edge. lfyou have a severely rounded over edge on yourmoulding which prevents proper support of theworkpiece, it would be better to do this rebatingusing the router, as per Step 3.

A safe method of using the saw to cut a rebate inthese circumstances is the use of a plywood orhardboard "mask" and a high rip fence extension,as discussed in the Operating Manual under"Edge Work on Thin Material".Also, refer to either the Operating Manual or the"Bread Board" project for safe operatingprocedures when edge rebating.At the completion of the rebating, crosscut theframes to approximate length. Cut each framepiece about 100mm oversize.

Mitre Cutting The MouldingDependent upon the length and/orthickness of your moulding, the mitre cuts

can be performed either in the table saw mode, orthe crosscut mode. Heavy or long mouldings arebetter cut in the crosscut mode, where the materialcan be held firmly, and the protractor clamped tothe worktable if necessary. The basic proceduresare the same in either case.

The double sided protractor, with its A and Bfaces, makes possible mitre cuts that always addup to exactly 90 degrees. (This protractor wasintroduced with the MK.3 New Series; owners ofearlier model MK.3 or later model MK.2 TritonWorkcentres can purchase this as an accessoryitem from our Customer Service Department).Face A is defined as the face closest to thecalibrated scale.

A Even though the double-sided protractor||r| ensures that mitres will add to 90 degrees,V make sure that the protractor is set as closeto 45 degrees as possible. lf the mitres are cut at,say 46 degrees and 44 degrees, there will be someoverlap on the corners.

Outside edge of moulding

th/Width of Picture

FIGURE 4

FIGURE 5

Test on scrap and adjust if necessary. Whencorrect, cut one end of all your frame piecesagainst Face B of the protractor, holding theoutside (non-rebated) edge of the moulding firmlyagainst the protractor to prevent creep.

Measure and mark for your completedpicture size, noting that the size is measuredfrom the inside corner of the rebate (as per

Figure 4). You can use the mat itself to mark thispoint, by placing it inside the rebate. Use a mitresquare to extend your marked point to the edge ofthe framing and mark the edge where it will bevisible during cutting.

Now attach a straight batten to Face A of theprotractor, to serve as an extension fence.Place one of the longer frame pieces against

this extension, line up your mark with the saw cutline, and make the cut. As it may be difficult to seethe mark clearly, play it safe and creep up to themark with shaving cuts. Check the picture sizeagainst your frame.When you are satisfied that your frame size iscorrect, set the stop block by holding the frameside that you have just cut against the extensionwith the mitred cut just touching the blade (withthe power off!). The stop should be placed at theother end, as shown in Figure 5. Remove the firstworkpiece and place the other longer side againstthe stop block and cut to length.The above procedures are repeated for the shorterframe sides.

Construction Details

METHOD A

METHOD B

FIGURE 6

Spline For StrengthA simple mitred joint is not particularlystrong, relying on limited surface gluing and

nails inserted into end grain. The joint can besubstantially strengthened by the inseftion of asmall spline. You will need both a 45 degree end-grain jig and a high fence extension mounted onyour rip fence, as shown in the Jig Guide.You will also need a small amount of material, thethickness of your saw blade kerf, for the spline.You can use thin plywood (3mm thick fortungsten-carbide tipped saw blades), or you canmake your own.lf you make your own spline material, make sureyou prevent the narrow off-cut from jamming inthe blade slot. Switch off the power just beforefinishing the cut, wait till the blade stops, withdrawthe workpiece and break off your spline material.

f tl lt is important that the splines are

I u ?:'::?LXl {tliil::H ?1i!: [::]'Jtiexactly in the centre of your workpieces. Measurethe thickness of your material, halve it, allow forhalf the thickness of your saw kerf, and set yourrip fence to suit.

Test on scrap pieces of your moulding to checkfor accuracy, running your material on edge over alowered saw blade, making cuts into each edge,and re-setting the rip fence, until the saw kerfs lineup exactly.(This takes some time and careful adjustment ofthe fence. Any error in the fence setting iseffectively doubled when making cuts withalternate faces against the fence).

I I The spline cuts can be made in two ways.

I I Figure 6 shows the options. Use methodr ! A for small, light mouldings; method B fo*large. l.,lote that with method A, it is possible thatthe spline will be visible on the inside edge of theframe. Also, in either case, if the rebate is deeprelative to the thickness of the moulding, you mayalso need to trim the spline to clear the rebate.

In both cases, the spline cuts are made first onone mitred end of each frame piece with themoulding face running against the fenceextension. Then cut the other ends of your frameswith the rebated face against the fence. (This iswhy it is crucial that your saw cut is central to yourworkpieces). Figure 7 demonstrates theprocedure.

You will cut into the angled leg of your jig whenmaking these cuts. lt is advisable to "pre-cut" thisjig slot, which helps to make a smooth pass overthe saw when actually cutting the workpieces.Feed the jig and the workpieces slowly over thesaw blade, don't pull the jig or workpiece backover the spinning blade, and keep your fingerswell clear.

f A Assembly| .t Do a trial assembly of the frame on a flatI r surface, rebate up, and check that theglass and backing fit correctly.When satisfied with the fit, glue and clamp withmitre clamps. lf using the splines, glue in positionand carefully trim back when the adhesive has set,using a small handsaw. Two brads at each cornerhelo to secure the frame.Apply a finish of your choice to your pictureframe, and then complete the assembly. Fit theglass (make sure the inside surface is clean), themat, the picture (taped into position onto the matto stop it shifting around), and the backing boaro. -Fix in place with a few small brads into the sides ofthe frame. Apply brown paper and tape to theback of the picture to keep out the dust.