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CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL
BEAUTY
Comment Taking a bite out of services Inside 2 Retail insights Travel retail
3 Tech bytes Netwatch 5 Trending Companies to watch
6 Data
7 Interview Shiseido China region ceo Kentaro Fujiwara
8 Zoom in on Ulta
9 Seen in show Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna
11 In case you missed it
INSIGHT
If the industry needed any more convincing about the importance of services, it should take a look at Apple’s latest move. The US-based tech company
announced a new push into video, news and gaming last week. It used its keynote presentation—usually reserved to show off new products—to unveil its venture into digital services. This latest attempt from Apple to go deeper into services is seen by many as a strategy to lessen the company’s dependence on its star product—the iPhone. In beauty too, services are seen as key to the future and have even been called
“the industry’s new products” by some. This does not mean that products as we know them will disappear, but rather that brands will need to accompany these products with more value, whether it be through services such as diagnostics, skin tracking and recommendations, masterclasses, education or invitations to events. Offering these services may also be one way of encouraging consumers to
divulge their data to brands. And it is this all-important consumer data that will be the key to designing and selling products in the future.
#186
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The leading publication on the international beauty industry
Oonagh PhillipsEditor in [email protected]
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Comment Retail insights & Travel retail
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Retail insights• Modular brick-and-mortar. Greek fashion retailer Folli Follie’s new multi-brand store in Brescia, Italy is looking to keep shoppers coming back by refreshing its store design every six months. The adjoining men's and women's boutiques feature modular design elements. There are also dedicated areas for pop-ups, capsule collections and product launches. Folli Follie teamed up with Italian retailer G&B for the venture.
• CCTV for in-store insights. Tech company Aura Vision has rolled out AI technology that allows retailers and brands to make their CCTV footage anonymous so it can be used for in-store demographic insights. The system uses existing cameras to generate real-time data on footfall, area use rates, service wait times, customer age ranges and other information. The company says its technology does not use facial recognition.
• Brick & mortar and digital-natives. Digital-native brands are becoming an attractive addition for brick-and-mortar stores. US retailer target Target is moving to stock more digital-native brands in-store—its brands include Makeup Geek and Everyhue Beauty, while beauty chain Ulta's in-store traffic surged after offering Kylie Cosmetics.
• Best Buy thrives in Amazon age. Electronics retailer Best Buy posted healthy fourth-quarter revenue and profits thanks to a focus on in-store tech support and improving the overall experience for customers. Despite closing under-performing locations, Best Buy's investment in remaining stores has allowed it to withstand pressure from Amazon.
Travel retail
Horizon Consumer Science president Ian Cesa on why Chanel is the strongest brand among international travelers
“In the survey of international travelers we do every two years, we ask which are the most desirable luxury brands for international travelers to buy. In a world where the names Chanel, Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton seem almost ubiquitous, we would expect that these brands would be among the most popular. And, some of them are, but not all. Chanel is the most desirable brand and has been since we started the survey in 2012. What seems to explain the strength of Chanel is its consistency across the world, and its strength in beauty. Few brands are consistent in their strength among different nationalities, but Chanel is the most consistent: 17% in the Americas, 16% in Europe, 35% in Asia, 30% in the Middle East. Chanel is also, by far, the most desirable brand to buy in beauty, at 34%. Also important is that, even for Chanel, less than one quarter of international travelers want to buy something from this brand when they travel, a surprisingly low number given the assumed popularity of luxury brands, worldwide.”
All data from Horizon Consumer Science’s 2018 Global Traveler Report. More than 31,000 traveling consumers from 38 countries have been surveyed every two years since 2012 for the four Travel Retail Catalyst Studies (TRaCS) which make up the Report. For more information: www.horizonconsumerscience.com. Contact Ian Cesa at [email protected]
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San Francisco-based Tribe Dynamics shares exclusive data about beauty trends and brands making waves on social media
Elf fêtes Beauty Shield Collection with Finn Lough Retreat Though Elf did not rank among February’s Top-10 brands in the UK, its $3.0m earned media value (EMV) represented a 71% month-over-month growth—well above the Top 10’s average 7% decline. The brand celebrated its Beauty Shield collection ($147.3k EMV) by bringing bloggers including Grace (@facesbygrace23) to the Finn
Lough resort in Northern Ireland, spurring eye-catching Instagrams from the space’s iconic bubble domes. The associated #ELFColourBeautifully garnered $91.4k EMV. Tribe Dynamics is a San Francisco-based software company that helps beauty, fashion and lifestyle brands drive and measure digital earned media at scale. For more stories and rankings of top brands and products in international beauty, check out Tribe Dynamics’ February Tribe Top 10 report for the UK here.
Tech bytes
• Content, content content. More big digital players are looking to get deeper into content production. Last week Apple announced that it would make a new push into video, news and gaming, while music streaming service Spotify struck a deal to acquire podcasting studio Parcast, which creates true crime series and fiction, in a bid to add original content to its offer. Beauty companies too often talk about how they are becoming publishers, but this may be just the tip of the iceberg for content creation.
• Brands are looking to figure out what Instagram’s new checkout button (which allows users to make a purchase without leaving the app) will mean for their business. There is strong potential for increased sales—especially impulse purchases—and brands will also be able to better weigh up the effectiveness of their Instagram marketing. However, analysts wonder whether users will be turned off, as they do not necessarily go to Instagram to shop, while others say brands will also lose out on consumer data if shoppers use the feature rather than buy on brand websites.
• With developments in AI, chatbots are set to have more of a role in retail, especially when it comes to customer service. According to a study by Uberall, 80% of consumers who have interacted with an AI chatbot say the experience was positive. However, consumers also say they prefer live assistants when shopping online. For beauty, chatbots may be more useful in offering deals, coupons and promotions rather than for product recommendations—at least for now.
Netwatch
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Comment Retail insights & Travel retail
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SEOUL2019 April 15|16
Conrad Hotel
MakeUp in @makeupin_world
in@MakeUpInWorld
@MakeUpinWorld @MakeUpinWorld @makeupin_world @MakeUp in
makeup-in-seoul.com
MakeUp in Seoul is the exclusive BtoB eventwith global make-up and skincare
offers from ingredients, formulation,design, packaging, accessories to full
service suppliers.
MakeUp 2019 - Seoul - Pubs 210x297.indd 1 11/03/2019 15:55
Trending
Companies to watch
J.U.S. Founded in 2018, this France-based fragrance house aims to be the antidote to the ‘uniformization’ of today’s niche perfumery market. J.U.S (Joyau Unique & Sensoriel, French for Unique & Sensorial Jewel) has two collections and 11 skus in total, presented in colorful, refillable bottles. In addition to its focus on sustainability, J.U.S aims for transparency: The formula for each of its perfumes, created by perfumers including Aurélien Guichard (Takasago) and Alexandra Carlin (Symrise), are shared with consumers. The brand is sold online and through doors in Italy and France, with further international expansion planned this year.
Niu Body. This Canada-based brand positions itself as a line of natural and vegan beauty products that are effective and affordable. Founded in March 2017 by millennials Laura Burget and Connie Lo, the brand carries products from cleansing oils to facial serums and clay masks, all priced under $40 and searchable on the brand’s site by product or by skin type.
Pinch of Colour. Founded by beauty industry veteran Linda Treska in 2016, Pinch of Colour taps into the waterless trend with its line of skincare and color cosmetics made with botanicals, natural oils and fruit butters. Products include face tints, lip colors and a face oil, with prices ranging from $21 to $65. The company eliminates water from both its production process and products and gives part of its proceeds to communities around the world in need of clean water for drinking, hygiene and sanitation.
Adaptogens may be the next health-store staple to go
mainstream, with beauty brands such as Youth To The People
including them in their products. Used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine, adaptogens are non-toxic plants said to help the
body resist stressors.
Moving away from the heavily highlighted and ‘glass skin’ trends of 2018, a natural base is set to be the key look for the upcoming season. This translates to skin that is healthy-looking, but imperfect,
as seen at Pyer Moss, Coach, Kate Spade and Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2019 runway shows.
While wellness is a key buzzword, 2019 trends in this area are not just about
yoga and smoothies. Among new products and practices
promoting well-being are CBD (cannabidiol) in luxury skincare,
IV drips and ingestibles and using technology to improve
sleep.
Digital personal shoppers may be the next big thing in retail. Jetblack, a start-up at the Walmart incubator Store No. 8, provides a members-only personal shopping and concierge service. It blends AI with human expertise and offers personal shopping, including gift wrapping and returns, via text
message.
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Data
China luxury sales
• Millennials and women were the drivers behind the 20% growth in China’s domestic luxury market in 2018, according to a report from management consultancy Bain & Company. The market rose from RMB142bn ($21.11bn) in 2017 to RMB170bn ($25.28bn) in 2018.
• The Chinese government’s reduction in import duties, stricter gray market controls and brands’ efforts to narrow the price gap with overseas markets mean more Chinese consumers are purchasing luxury goods in China.
• Digitalization is also fueling luxury sales in China. Online luxury sales grew by 27% in 2018 to reach 10% of total luxury sales, driven by cosmetics.
• Chinese consumers made 27% of their luxury purchases in China in 2018, up from 23% in 2015. Bain forecasts this proportion will increase to 50% by 2025. That said, Chinese consumers are not buying less abroad. According to the report, luxury spending by Chinese shoppers now represents 33% of the global market.
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24ª edição
EXPOSIÇÃO INTERNACIONAL DE TECNOLOGIAPARA A INDÚSTRIA FARMACÊUTICA
24th International Exhibition of Technology for the Cosmetic Industry 11a.m. to 7p.m.
Brazil ROUND FLAG
Are you seeing any slowdown in beauty in China? And what about the impact of the trade war with the US? Both our company and the market are seeing good growth, especially in prestige. Sales of skincare, especially serums and creams, are increasing, and the growth of make-up is also significant. Premiumization is a key factor in China’s growth, especially for millennials or the post-95s—they are interested in trading up. However, uncertainty [will be a key force] in the market. Before, all brands enjoyed high growth, but now the consumer has more opinions and information and is looking for [what is] the value of the products for themselves, as well as innovative products. So the winners and the losers are more defined. [In terms of the trade war] Although there is uncertainty, currently we do not foresee a sudden drop in consumption. We also see signs of recovery in the current consumer confidence index. The market in China is becoming more fragmented, but we want to offer our consumer
more exciting moments at retail—this is our challenge. To do so we have to approach the consumer in a more seamless and customized manner. We will enhance our strategy and marketing for new retail, cross-border marketing and a CRM product program.
How are your brands performing in China? Our brands are growing stronger than the market. I plan to introduce other brands to China as quickly as possible. Japanese beauty is a great opportunity for us because more Chinese consumers are purchasing Japanese brands. Overall our investment will continue to increase, but our marketing focus will be in two areas: Reinforcing the brand experience and visual communication with consumers. Consumers want convenience and easy access to buy, but we still believe that the real brand experience is very important, so we will reinforce our activities in counters or pop-up store activities. We will continue to increase our digital marketing investment. We will enhance our targeting using third-party big data like Alibaba, and customer recruitment through social marketing.
How important are big data partnerships with Tmall? Our positioning for Tmall is not only for the sales channel, but also around the importance of the marketing platform. We will strengthen that relationship to acquire new consumers. Second is to provide products that meet consumer needs through cooperation with the Alibaba ecosystem. Third, we have established a dedicated team in Hangzhou where Alibaba’s headquarters are located to work more closely with Alibaba.
What is Shiseido’s approach to harmonizing pricing?It's important to harmonize the balance from a global perspective, considering the product, currency rate, VAT and competitiveness. It’s not only the way to closing the gap to lower the price in China, but with more Chinese visiting Japan, we are making efforts to encourage them to visit the counter in China after they return. The important thing is to give a more branded experience between China and Japan and to harmonize the consumer journey between those countries. n
”Shiseido China region ceo Kentaro Fujiwara
The market in China is becoming more fragmented, but we want to offer our consumer more exciting moments at retail—this is our challenge. To do so we have to approach the consumer in a more seamless and customized manner
“
Interview Interview with Shiseido China region ceo Kentaro Fujiwara
Shiseido China's ceo Kentaro Fujiwara discusses beauty in the market
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s Shiseido is benefiting from more Chinese consumers buying Japanese brands
Zoom in on: Ulta
The retail model Ulta has been held up as an example of how to do retail, especially in the Amazon age. The retailer, which now has 1,200 stores across the US, said fourth-quarter sales grew faster than expected, up 9.7% to $2.12bn. It's performance is down to an assortment
offering a range of price points and a mix of mass and class (ceo Mary Dillon says a strong point is bringing consumers in through its mass offer and trading them up to prestige); how it sells—self-service and full advice and salon services, and its loyalty program, which the company says drives engagement and gets consumers spending more.
Digital-native brands Ulta has secured the brick-and-mortar distribution of key digital-native brands. For example, it was the only physical point of distribution for Kylie Cosmetics. These hot social-media brands, which also include Morphe and a brick-and-mortar exclusive for four of Kim Kardashian’s fragrances, have proved to be strong store traffic drivers.
Loyalty programUlta’s loyalty program has been described by analysts as the retailer’s secret sauce. As of the end of 2018 the program had 31.8 million members. The company says the program’s different tiers of value are key. It recently introduced Diamond member level (in addition to a basic level and the Platinum level), where consumers who spend up to $1,200 annually receive benefits including free shipping and being able to use points on skin, make-up and hair services. Ulta’s Dillon says personalization will be the next frontier of loyalty. The retailer is focusing on incorporating product recommendations based on past purchase patterns into its loyalty system and on replenishment reminders. Last fall, Ulta acquired QM Scientific and GlamST, two artificial intelligence and augmented reality companies, intended to help the retailer personalize the shopping experience and its rewards program.
E-commerceUlta’s e-commerce comparable sales for the fourth quarter rose by 25%. However, the company said that this was softer than its expectations in the mid-30s range, largely due to more consumers shopping in its brick-and-mortar stores rather than on its website so they could try digital-native brands such as Kylie Cosmetics. A sign that if the offer is attractive enough shoppers will buy in-store over online. Physical storesUlta has been praised for doing brick-and-mortar retail well due to its wide offer, and range of price points and its services. In the digital age, the company is also one of the few retailers to have grown its store traffic. In addition to exclusives with digital-native brands, the company has also been highlighting key trends in its stores, with areas for clean beauty or vegan products. Ulta aims to increase its store count to 1,700 doors, up from 1,200 today. It is forecasting 80 store openings this year and 75 in 2020. n
US-based retailer Ulta’s recent performance shows that brick-and-mortar stores can thrive in the Amazon era. BW Confidential analyzes its strategy
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Seen in show: Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2019
Germany-based Geka introduced its first online product configurator, allowing a brand to design a tailor-made mascara. Through the integrated search engine, a product manager can select the bottle, cap and brush from the standard portfolio, then add a logo, colors and decorative effects, a process that helps save time. The company also highlighted its Kiss the nature beauty trend for Spring/Summer 2020 combining technology and well-being. The Curl me! mascara (pictured) is a bi-injected brush with a curved design made with Geka’s sandwich technology, which results in the combination of a stable brush core surrounded by flexible and soft bristles, facilitating the delivery of product on the lashes.
Germany-based Schwan Cosmetics returned to Cosmopack Bologna after an 11- year absence to present its new corporate image. The “reinvented Schwan” claims to offer “tomorrow’s beauty now”, focusing on the combination of performance, sustainability and design. The company showed its new collections of wooden cosmetic pencils with innovative shapes: Shifted Lead Next Generation and Jumbo Chopstick Oriental. It also highlighted its 3D-printed packaging solutions (pictured), which allow unlimited decorative customization as well as short time-to-market for brands of all sizes.
London-based Pro Cosmetic International showcased its nail polish brand NailLook, focusing on its new Bio Nail Philosophy line (pictured). The line has a formula containing 85% bio-sourced ingredients extracted from potato, corn, wheat and manioc and has no ethanol or animal fat. The line produced in France comes in 24 shades and complies with Halal and Vegan requirements. It has been designed for international retail (perfumeries). The company’s other lines are distributed through the professional channel.
Japan-based Upbuty Co Ltd unveiled its three beauty facial devices launched last year in Japan with the aim of opening international markets. The Dorkase device (pictured) has 180 degree gold-plated rotating massage heads that can be activated in three modes (micro-current, vibration or a combination of both) and five intensity levels. It costs €279.
Germany-based Faber-Castell presented its ‘cleaner and greener’ beauty products in the form of Pure² Beauty. The make-up pencils’ vegan formulas do not include any controversial ingredients (such as parabens, mineral mica and unsustainable palm oil) and have no microplastic, silicones or synthetic waxes. The Mechanical Slim Pencil (pictured) is a long-lasting eyeliner that can be used as a kajal. The line also includes a wooden pencil lipliner and a wooden jumbo pencil lipstick.
French skincare company Qiriness showcased its first suncare range, Caresse Soleil Suprême (pictured), with a face product and a body product, both available with SPF 30 and SPF50. The company says that the products’ Complex QD-3SUN combined with a broad spectrum sun filter system provides overall photoprotection and also fights against free radicals and activates cellular detoxification.
The HCT group showed a 100% recyclable make-up paper palette with no laminated parts and with removable pans. The company has made sustainability a major focus and is working on a 100% recyclable lipstick in PET to be finalized for summer 2019.
BW Confidential highlights the most interesting innovations presented at the Cosmoprof show in Bologna, Italy, which took place from March 14-17
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US-based Anisa International showed three new collections of brushes designed for the application of skincare products, as the company predicts the demand for skincare tools will continue to grow. The Skincare Collection (pictured) comprises 14 brushes to cleanse, moisturize and treat the skin. The five brushes in the Liquid Touch collection, with their 40 degree laser-cut ferrules, are said to make the application of any liquid or cream product as precise as using the fingertips. The four brushes in the Prep & Prime Collection have an indented center for controlled product application of various textures.
Beauty technology supplier Revieve presented its AI-powered digital solution for brands and retailers that analyzes consumer selfies to advise on a specific make-up or skincare routine. It can be implemented on any web platform in any language and country.
Barcelona-based packaging manufacturer Quadpack highlighted four consumer-centric themes that could inspire future innovations. The Oracle consumer is all about well-being and relaxation and is symbolized by a cosmetic bracelet with a central stone that opens up to contain a cream. Sustainability is the mantra of the three RS (Reduce, Reuse and Recycle) and was illustrated by a jar made of biomass that can decompose after use. The Phygital consumer wants home delivery, single-dose and digital solutions, and the All About Me consumer’s credo is my Beauty, my Rules. Quadpack imagined a ‘talking’ product with a pre-recorded message delivered to the user.
Plastic specialist RPC Bramlage Division unveiled its Natura Pack system (pictured) that consists of a removable 50ml refill made of recyclable PP adapted to premium RPC Bramlage cosmetic jars made in Europe. The company claims it is a sustainable solution that meets the demand of eco-conscious consumers, but also benefits brands, as it allows them to renew the decorations on the inserts depending on the seasons.
Key trends from the show• Sustainability was an omnipresent theme in the show summed up by the three Rs: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. Italian company Intercos, said it not only wants to reduce its waste, but to also re-use it.• More refillable solutions in skincare, make-up and toiletries. RPC presented a refillable roll-on deodorant. When the deodorant cartridge is empty, it can be removed and replaced with a new cartridge that is inserted in the outside shell (the external tube).• The market for skincare beauty tools, whether beauty devices or cosmetic brushes, is growing, with more products dedicated to every step of the beauty routine.• Instagrammability continues to be a key driver for innovation and a point of reference for designers. • Gender neutral make-up lines are now included in the color collections of most manufacturers (MX line for HCP group, Blur the lines for Geka)• The use of 3D printing is spreading as it enables the production of small quantities, unlimited decorative customization while reducing waste.• Laser technology is becoming more sophisticated to create impactful decorations for packs.• Beauty is becoming more digital. Manufacturers are offering brands product configurators, while retailers and brands are doing more digitally to guide consumers in their choices through analysis of selfies using AI to provide make-up or skincare recommendations.
Seen in show: Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2019
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CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL CONFIDENTIAL
In case you missed it
Unilever to acquire Garancia
Natura confirms it is in talks with Avon over potential acquisition
Amazon launches its own skincare brand
Shiseido inks joint business plan with Alibaba
NYX to close Brazil stores
Galeries Lafayette opens Champs Elysées flagship
Debenhams secures £200m refinancing deal, fending off acquisition
JAB Holding extends tender offer on Coty to April 15
Alibaba launches new service for Chinese travelers
AS Watson opens 15,000th store globally
Glossier raises $100m in Series D funding
Bain Capital Private Equity acquires majority stake in Maesa
Visitor numbers down at Orlando travel-retail show
Go to bwconfidential.com for full stories and daily news updates
The leading publication on the international beauty industry
BW Confidential 17 rue Louis Rouquier, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France [email protected] Tel: +33 (0) 1 74 63 49 61 www.bwconfidential.com ISSN: 2104-3302 Publisher: Nicolas Grob [email protected] Editorial Director: Oonagh Phillips [email protected] Journalist & Copy Editor: Katie Nichol [email protected] Journalist: Monica Defrances [email protected] Contributors: Sophie Douez, Alex Wynne, Renata Ashcar, Mayu Saini, Corinne Blanché, Naomi Marcoulet, Kevin Rozario, Tina Milton Subscriptions 1 year: Beauty Insight (20 issues) + Print Magazine (4 issues) + This Week in Beauty + Daily News + Collector’s Guide + Beauty & Travel Retail Special Edition: €549/US$769 [email protected] Advertising [email protected] BW Confidential is published by Noon Media 513 746 297 RCS Nanterre Copyright © 2019. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.
In the next issue of BW Confidential’s Beauty Insight to be published April 16, 2019:
New types of loyalty programs
PLUS: • The latest retail and tech news • Interview • Travel retail data • Beauty trends • Social media insights
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