Basic of Knitting

8/3/2019 Basic of Knitting

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Presentation OnPresentation OnKnitting MachineKnitting Machine


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DefinitionDefinitionThe knitting machine incorporate and coordinates theThe knitting machine incorporate and coordinates the

action of a number of a mechanisms and devices eachaction of a number of a mechanisms and devices eachperforming specific functions which contribute towardsperforming specific functions which contribute towardsthe efficiency of the knitting action.the efficiency of the knitting action.

The frame according to the needle bed shape.The frame according to the needle bed shape.

The machine control, and drive system coordinates theThe machine control, and drive system coordinates thepower for the drive of the devices and mechanisms.power for the drive of the devices and mechanisms.

The fabric take away mechanism includes fabricThe fabric take away mechanism includes fabrictensioning, windtensioning, wind--up and accommodation devices.up and accommodation devices.

The quality control system includes stop motions, faultThe quality control system includes stop motions, fault

detectors, automatic oilers and lint removal systems.detectors, automatic oilers and lint removal systems.


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Parts Of Knitting MachineParts Of Knitting MachineMachine FrameMachine Frame ::-- it is the frame which holds variousit is the frame which holds variousparts. It provides support for majority of machines.parts. It provides support for majority of machines.

Knitting elementsKnitting elements

NeedlesNeedles

GaugeGaugeSinkerSinker

CamCam


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NEEDLESNEEDLESThere are three types of needles in common use todayThere are three types of needles in common use today

in knitting industries:in knitting industries:--

BEARDED NEEDLEBEARDED NEEDLE

COMPOUND NEEDLECOMPOUND NEEDLE


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BEARDED NEEDLEBEARDED NEEDLEBearded needle is the cheapest and simplest typeBearded needle is the cheapest and simplest typeto manufacture.to manufacture.

It is made from a single piece of metal.It is made from a single piece of metal.

There are five main parts:There are five main parts:--

TheThe stemstemaround which the needle loop is formed.around which the needle loop is formed.

TheThe headheadwhere the stem is turned into a hook towhere the stem is turned into a hook to..

TheThe beardbeardwhich is the curved downwardswhich is the curved downwardscontinuation of the hook that is used to separatecontinuation of the hook that is used to separatethe trapped new loop inside from the old loop as itthe trapped new loop inside from the old loop as itslides off the needle beard.slides off the needle beard.

TheThe eyeeyeor groove cut in the stem to receive theor groove cut in the stem to receive thepointed tip the beard when it is passed, thuspointed tip the beard when it is passed, thusenclosing the new loop.enclosing the new loop.

TheThe shankshankwhich may be bent for individualwhich may be bent for individual

location in the machine or cast with others in alocation in the machine or cast with others in ametal lead.metal lead.


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Knitting Cycle of BeardKnitting Cycle of Beard

NeedleNeedleRunning PositionRunning Position

Feeding PositionFeeding PositionClearing PositionClearing Position

Needle ClosingNeedle Closing

Knocking PositionKnocking Position


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LATCH NEEDLELATCH NEEDLEThe latch needle was developed in the midThe latch needle was developed in the mid1919thth century (1849) and compared with thecentury (1849) and compared with the

bearded needle.bearded needle.The needle consists of six main parts:The needle consists of six main parts:StemStem Used to hold the course of oldUsed to hold the course of oldloopsloops

and form loops.and form loops.RivetRivet Holds the latch in place and allowsHolds the latch in place and allowsit to pivot.it to pivot.LatchLatch The latch combines the taskThe latch combines the taskperformed by the presser bar and the beardperformed by the presser bar and the beard

of the bearded needle.of the bearded needle.ButtButt The butt enables the movement ofThe butt enables the movement ofthe needle to be controlled by a camthe needle to be controlled by a cammechanism.mechanism. A track raises and lowers theA track raises and lowers theneedle.needle.

TailTail Used to provide support to the needleUsed to provide support to the needle


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Knitting Cycle of LatchKnitting Cycle of Latch

NeedleNeedleRunning positionRunning position

Latch openingLatch opening

Clearing heightClearing height

Yarn feeding and latch closingYarn feeding and latch closingKnocking overKnocking over


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COMPOUND NEEDLECOMPOUND NEEDLECompound needle consists of two separately controlCompound needle consists of two separately control

parts i.e, the hook and closing element.parts i.e, the hook and closing element.This needle is more complicated than other needles.This needle is more complicated than other needles.

The two parts rise and full as a single unit but at the topThe two parts rise and full as a single unit but at the top

of the fall hook decants.of the fall hook decants.


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Machine gaugeMachine gaugeGauge is the term used to describe the needle spacing, whichGauge is the term used to describe the needle spacing, whichcan be defined as the number of needles per unit length.can be defined as the number of needles per unit length.

If two sets of needles are used (double jersey machines) theIf two sets of needles are used (double jersey machines) thesecond set is not taken into consideration in determining thesecond set is not taken into consideration in determining thegauge of the machine.gauge of the machine.

There are three chief systems for representing the machineThere are three chief systems for representing the machine, . ., . .

The gauge is the major factor in determining the fabric densityThe gauge is the major factor in determining the fabric densityand appearance. Finer gauge machine, knits wider fabrics asand appearance. Finer gauge machine, knits wider fabrics asmoremore waleswales are available. There is a direct relationship betweenare available. There is a direct relationship betweenthe gauge and yarn count to be used on that machine.the gauge and yarn count to be used on that machine.


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SINKERSINKERThe sinker is the second primaryThe sinker is the second primary

knitting element. It is a thin metalknitting element. It is a thin metalplate placed between the twoplate placed between the twoadjoining needles and has aadjoining needles and has a

collective ed e.collective ed e.

The sinker is placed at 90 to theThe sinker is placed at 90 to theneedle.needle.

The main function of sinker isThe main function of sinker is

loop formation. It may performloop formation. It may performone or more function.one or more function.


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CAMCAMThe upward movement of theThe upward movement of theneedle is obtained by theneedle is obtained by the

rising cams.rising cams.

Cams controlling theCams controlling the

needles are called stitch cams.needles are called stitch cams.

Guard cams keep the needleGuard cams keep the needlebutts in their race way.butts in their race way.

Running cam up throw camRunning cam up throw camkeep the needle butts at a lowkeep the needle butts at a lowlevel until they meet the nextlevel until they meet the next

rising cam.rising cam.


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Two Types of KnittingTwo Types of Knitting

MachineMachine

Weft Knitting MachineWeft Knitting Machine

Warp Knitting MachineWarp Knitting Machine


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Weft knitting machineWeft knitting machineFully Fashioned MachineFully Fashioned Machine

Flat Knitting MachineFlat Knitting Machine

Circular Knitting MachineCircular Knitting Machine

1. Single Jersey1. Single Jersey2. Double Jersey2. Double Jersey


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Fully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned MachinesFully Fashioned Machines

Bearded needles are used which are set into a straightBearded needles are used which are set into a straight--bar in a long row and the entire bar is reciprocated bybar in a long row and the entire bar is reciprocated by

rotary cams which causes the knitting action.rotary cams which causes the knitting action.Fully Fashioned machines only have one set of needlesFully Fashioned machines only have one set of needlesand therefore can only produce plain knit fabric, making itand therefore can only produce plain knit fabric, making itnecessary to produce the welts/cuffs on special ribbingnecessary to produce the welts/cuffs on special ribbingknitting machines.knitting machines.

The ribs are held on runningThe ribs are held on running--on bars and are eitheron bars and are eithertransferred on to the Fully Fashioned machine by hand ortransferred on to the Fully Fashioned machine by hand orautomatically depending on the age of the machine.automatically depending on the age of the machine.

The patterning capability of Fully Fashioned machines isThe patterning capability of Fully Fashioned machines islimited to plain knit fully fashioned panels. Machines withlimited to plain knit fully fashioned panels. Machines withstitch transfer and intarsia capabilities can create the wellstitch transfer and intarsia capabilities can create the wellknown argyle styles.known argyle styles.

The gentle knitting action of these machines allows theThe gentle knitting action of these machines allows theuse of delicate fine countuse of delicate fine count woollenwoollen spun yarns and alsospun yarns and alsoenables the machines to run faster where possible givingenables the machines to run faster where possible givinggood knitting efficiency.good knitting efficiency.


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Special FeaturesSpecial Features

Machine gauge : normally 21Machine gauge : normally 21--30 needles per 1.530 needles per 1.5

inchinch

Machine width : from 2 to 16 section machines,Machine width : from 2 to 16 section machines,

eac sect on up to nc w eeac sect on up to nc w eNeedle type : bearded and latchNeedle type : bearded and latch

Needle bed type : single and ribNeedle bed type : single and rib

EndEnd products : jumpers, pullovers, cardigans,products : jumpers, pullovers, cardigans,dresses, suits, trouser suits, fully fashioneddresses, suits, trouser suits, fully fashionedhose, under wear, sports shirts, thermal wear.hose, under wear, sports shirts, thermal wear.


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Flat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesFlat Knitting MachinesSometimes referred to as Flatbeds or VSometimes referred to as Flatbeds or V--bedsbedsdue to the nature and arrangements of the knittingdue to the nature and arrangements of the knitting

beds where two opposing needle beds arebeds where two opposing needle beds arepositioned so that the upper ends form an invertedpositioned so that the upper ends form an invertedV.V.

Needles slide up and down the beds in slots knownNeedles slide up and down the beds in slots known

number of needles per 1 inch.number of needles per 1 inch.The carriage or cam box traverses across theThe carriage or cam box traverses across theneedle beds and selects needles to be knitted as itneedle beds and selects needles to be knitted as itreciprocates side to side.reciprocates side to side.

stitches can be passed from one bed to the otherstitches can be passed from one bed to the other

and the beds can be moved linearly in relation toand the beds can be moved linearly in relation toeach other. This not only allows panels to beeach other. This not only allows panels to beshaped, but it also opens up extensive patterningshaped, but it also opens up extensive patterningpossibilities using stitch transfer,.possibilities using stitch transfer,.


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Special FeaturesSpecial Features

Machine gauge : normally 5Machine gauge : normally 5--15 needles15 needles

per 1.5 inchper 1.5 inchMachine width : up to 78.7 inchesMachine width : up to 78.7 inches

ee e type : atcee e type : atcNeedle bed type : single, rib and interlockNeedle bed type : single, rib and interlock

EndEnd-- products : jumpers, pullovers,products : jumpers, pullovers,cardigans, dressed, suits, hats,cardigans, dressed, suits, hats,


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Circular Knitting MachinesCircular Knitting Machines

There are many types of circularThere are many types of circular

knitting machines which produceknitting machines which producelong lengths of tubular fabric andlong lengths of tubular fabric andquite often they are manufacturedquite often they are manufactured

mind.mind.

Two types of machineTwo types of machine

Single Jersey MachineSingle Jersey Machine

Double Jersey MachinesDouble Jersey Machines


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Single Jersey MachinesSingle Jersey Machines

Single Jersey machines are equipped with aSingle Jersey machines are equipped with asingle cylinder, about 30 inch diameter, ofsingle cylinder, about 30 inch diameter, of

needles that produce plain fabrics (singleneedles that produce plain fabrics (singlethickness). .thickness). .

single jersey based machines include:single jersey based machines include:

fabrics which are produced by knitting twofabrics which are produced by knitting twoyarns into the same stitch, one ground yarnyarns into the same stitch, one ground yarnand one loop yarn. These protruding loopsand one loop yarn. These protruding loopsare then brushed or raised during finishingare then brushed or raised during finishing

creating a fleece fabric.creating a fleece fabric.Sliver knitting machines are single jerseySliver knitting machines are single jerseymachines that have been adapted to trap amachines that have been adapted to trap asliver of staple woolsliver of staple wool fibrefibre in to the knitin to the knit

structure.structure.


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Double jersey machines are single jerseyDouble jersey machines are single jerseymachines with a dial which houses an extra setmachines with a dial which houses an extra set

of needles positioned horizontally adjacent to theof needles positioned horizontally adjacent to thevertical cylinder needles.vertical cylinder needles.

This extra set of needles allows the production ofThis extra set of needles allows the production offabrics that are twice as thick as single jerseyfabrics that are twice as thick as single jerseyfabrics.fabrics.


Typical examples include interlock basedTypical examples include interlock basedstructures for underwear/base layer garmentsstructures for underwear/base layer garmentsand 1 x 1 rib fabrics for leggings and outerwearand 1 x 1 rib fabrics for leggings and outerwearproducts.products.


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Warp Knitting MachineWarp Knitting MachineWarp knitting machines were invented in 1775, some 200 years after theWarp knitting machines were invented in 1775, some 200 years after thefirst knitting machines.first knitting machines.

There was extraordinary growth in the warp knitting industry between 1950There was extraordinary growth in the warp knitting industry between 1950and 1970 due to development in yarnsand 1970 due to development in yarns

After 1970, warp knitting declined with the reduction in sales of nylon shirtsAfter 1970, warp knitting declined with the reduction in sales of nylon shirtsand sheets which were the major products of warp knitting at that time.and sheets which were the major products of warp knitting at that time.

Types of machine areTypes of machine are--Tricot machineTricot machine

Raschel machineRaschel machine


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Tricot MachineTricot MachineIn tricot machines the needles mainly used areIn tricot machines the needles mainly used arebeared needle with a pressure bar tricot machine.beared needle with a pressure bar tricot machine.

It has one or more than one warp beams mountedIt has one or more than one warp beams mountedabove the machine.above the machine.

the machine and is controlled by yarn guides, set in athe machine and is controlled by yarn guides, set in aguide bar. One guide bar is used for one set of warpguide bar. One guide bar is used for one set of warpyarns.yarns.

The greater number of bars, the greater the designThe greater number of bars, the greater the designflexibility.flexibility.

Movements of guide bar is controlled by chains withMovements of guide bar is controlled by chains withlinks.links.

As the guide bar is raised and moves side ways itAs the guide bar is raised and moves side ways itplays the warp yarn in their respected needle hooksplays the warp yarn in their respected needle hooksto form a coarse of loops. Simultaneously when theto form a coarse of loops. Simultaneously when theloops of proceding.loops of proceding.


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Raschel MachineRaschel MachineReschel machines are different from tricotReschel machines are different from tricotmachines as rashel fabrics are made withmachines as rashel fabrics are made with

heavy yarnsheavy yarnsthey usually have an implicate lace likethey usually have an implicate lace likepattern where as tricot fabrics are made withpattern where as tricot fabrics are made with

fabrics.fabrics.The gauge of reschel machine is measuredThe gauge of reschel machine is measuredin term of the number of needles per twoin term of the number of needles per twoinches.inches.

Reschel fabrics are knitted on machineReschel fabrics are knitted on machinehaving 2having 2--40 guide bars,40 guide bars,

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Basic of Knitting