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BringingConservation
From theCountryside toYour Backyard
A cooperative project ofUSDA Natural Resources Conservation ServiceNational Association of Conservation DistrictsWildlife Habitat CouncilNational Audubon Society
Backyard Conservation
I N T R O D U C T I O N
Farmers and ranchers, and many home-owners, are making progress in naturalresource protection. You can join their
conservation tradition, right in your ownbackyard.
There are nearly 2 billion acres of land in theconterminous United States. About 70 per-cent of that land is privately owned and itscare is in the hands of those who live and
work on it. Most of that land, 1.4 billionacres, is managed by farmers and ranchers.More than 92 million acres of land—an areathe size of California—is privately developedand much of it is tended by homeowners.
Farmers and ranchers use conservation plansto help them apply practices that meet theirproduction objectives and protect soil, water,air, plant, and animal resources. You maywant to develop a plan for your own backyardto help you apply conservation measures thatfit your needs. Or maybe, for now, you’d liketo try just a few of the activities in this book.
We hope you’ll enjoy these activities thatbring beauty and diversity to your yard—whether your “yard” is measured in acres,feet, or flower pots. We know you’ll feel goodabout improving the environment and join-ing the conservation tradition of America’sfarmers and ranchers.
From the countrysideto your backyard
A tradition of caring for our natural resources
2
JimArchambeault
JimArchambeault
John
Hoepfner
PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Contour stripcropping;(bottom right) FledglingAmerican Robin; (bottom left)Water and plants to attract but-terflies; (top left)Water lily.
THIS PAGE(top) Constructed wetland withlandscaping; (right) Purpleprairie coneflowers; (bottom left)Finished compost; (center left)Atala hairstreak butterfly.
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Lynn
Betts,USD
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Lynn
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Lynn
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Lynn Betts, USDA
Alana
Edwards
C O N T E N T S
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Tree plantingPage 6
Wildlife habitatPage 8
Backyard pondPage 14
TerracingPage 22
WaterconservationPage 23
NutrientmanagementPage 21
In this publication, you’llsee practices used toconserve and improve
natural resources on agri-cultural land across thecountry. You’ll see how youcan use similar practices inyour own backyard to helpimprove the environment,help wildlife, and in manycases, make the area moreattractive and enjoyable.
Most backyard conserva-tion practices are easy toput in place. Tips and high-lights are given here, butfor more information, orfor help in developing yourbackyard plan, you maywant to consult a local
landscaper, garden club, orany of the organizationslisted in the back of thisbook.
What’s in this book
This bookhighlights 10conservationactivities,adaptedfrom farmsand ranches,that can beused in yourbackyard.
PLUS…“Quick Tips”
1 2 3
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©TomMunson
BackyardwetlandPage 16
MulchingPage 20
PestmanagementPage 24
CompostingPage 18
Conservation effortsby many farmers andranchers help keepthe air clean; maintaingood-quality water fordrinking, recreation,and fish and wildlife;provide homes forwildlife; ensurehealthy soil; and sus-tain a diversity ofplants. These benefitshelp people, wildlife,and the environment.
Numerous Federal andState conservationprograms are aimed atnatural resource pro-tection and sustain-ability. Many provideeducational, technical,and financial assis-tance to help farmersconsider and imple-ment conservationpractices.
On the farm
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EVERYBODYHAS ABACKYARDPage 26
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10
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PREVIOUS PAGE(top left) Cedar Waxwing; (topcenter) Backyard pond andwater- loving plants.
THIS PAGE(right) Contour stripcropping.
JimArchambeault
Tim McCabe, USDA
T R E E P L A N T I N G
Trees add beautyand so much more.
In your backyard
Choosing a treeChoose a tree that will pro-vide enjoyment for you,fits your landscape, and isnot invasive in your geo-graphical area. Takeadvantage of the abundantreferences on gardeningin local libraries, at univer-sities, arboretums, andparks where trees are identi-fied, and from native plantand gardening clubs, andnurseries. Before you buy,you can find out if a tree isappropriate for yourarea, how big it will get,how long it will live, its leafcolor in the fall, any nuts orfruit it may bear, and theproper planting instructionsand care for that species.Make a conscious effort toselect trees native toyour area. They will livelonger, be more tolerant oflocal weather and soil con-ditions, enhance naturalbiodiversity in your neigh-borhood, and be more ben-eficial to wildlife than non-native trees. Avoid exotictrees that can invade otherareas, crowd out nativeplants, and harm naturalecosystems. Plant a varietyof tree species. For wildlife,choose trees and shrubs thatbloom and bear fruit ornuts at different times ofthe year.
T rees in your backyard can be home to many different types ofwildlife. Trees also can reduce your heating and cooling costs, helpclean the air, add beauty and color, provide shelter from the wind
and the sun, and add value to your home.
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JimArchambeault
■ Dig a hole twice as wide asand slightly shallower thanthe root ball. Roughen thesides and bottom of the holewith a pick or shovel so thatroots can penetrate the soil.■ With a potted tree, gentlyremove the tree by cuttingaway the container. Withtrees wrapped in plastic orburlap, remove the string orwire that holds the wrappingto the root crown. Also,remove the wrapping beforeplanting.■ Gently separate circlingroots on the root ball. Cleanlycut exceptionally long roots,
and guide the shortened rootsdownward and outward. Roottips die quickly when exposedto light and air, so don’t wastetime.■ Lift the tree by the rootball, not the trunk, and placethe root ball in the hole.Leave the top of the root ball(where the roots end and thetrunk begins) 1/2 to 1 inchabove the surrounding soil,making sure not to cover itunless roots are exposed. Asyou add soil to fill in aroundthe tree, lightly tamp the soilto collapse air pockets, or addwater to help settle the soil.
■ Form a temporary waterbasin around the base of thetree to encourage waterpenetration, and waterthoroughly after planting.A tree with a dry root ballcannot absorb water; if theroot ball is extremely dry,allow water to trickle into thesoil by placing the hose at thetrunk of the tree.■ Mulch around the tree. A3-foot diameter circle ofmulch not exceeding 4 inchesin depth is common.
Be sure to carefully follow the planting instructions that comewith your tree. If specific instructions are not available, followthese tips:
Planting a treeA properly planted and maintained tree will growmuch faster andlive much longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Earlyspring, before bud break, is a good time to plant most trees. Treesmay also be planted in the early fall if local site conditions willallow roots to begin growing. Hot summer weather is hard onnewly planted trees and planting in frozen soil during the winter isdifficult and tough on tree roots.
Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and food forwildlife. Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used as barriers to slow windsthat blow across large cropped fields and through farmsteads. An established wind-break slows wind on its downwind side for a distance of 10 times the height of thetrees. Farmstead and field windbreaks and tree plantings are key components of aconservation system. They also improve air quality by capturing dust. Planting a mixof tree species helps prevent total losses to disease and severe weather; it also pro-vides food, nesting areas, and cover for a variety of wildlife.
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On the farm
Early maintenanceFor the first year or two, espe-cially after a week or so of veryhot or dry weather,watchyour trees closely forsigns of moisture stress. Ifyou see leaf wilting or hard,caked soil,water the treeswell and slowly enough so thewater soaks in rather than runsoff. This will encouragedeep root growth.Keep thearea under the trees mulchedand free of other plants. Untilthe trees are deeply rooted,grasses and other plants maytake upmoisture before thetrees can get their share.
PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Farmstead windbreak;(bottom left) A restful, sooth-ing place among the trees; (topleft) Enjoying the backyard.
THIS PAGE(top left) Northern Cardinalnest; (top right) Twine will beremoved before planting;(bottom left) Field windbreak.Ly
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How
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Lynn Betts, USDA
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W I L D L I F E H A B I T A T
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Trees, shrubs, and otherplants can provide homesand food for wildlife.
Attracting birds toyour yardThese are examples of plantsthat you can grow to attractbirds and other species. Besure to check with yournursery on what grows bestin your area.
Shrubs for birdsCommon juniperHighbush blueberryHollyPyracantha*Red-osier dogwoodServiceberry
SpicebushSumacViburnum*Wax myrtle*
Trees for birds andother wildlifeAmerican beechAmerican hollyAppleBalsam firBlack cherry*Black gumCottonwoodCrabappleFlowering dogwoodHawthornHickoryLive oakOakRed mulberry
Vines for birdsAmerican bittersweetNative honeysuckleStrawberry*Trumpet creeper*Virginia creeper*Wild grape*
Y our backyard can be home for many different types ofbirds, butterflies, beneficial insects, bats, and otherwildlife. Trees, shrubs, and other plants provide both
food and shelter for wildlife. The types of plants you use forfood and cover will help determine the wildlife speciesattracted to your backyard. Consider native plant speciesfirst. Plant a variety of species. Select plants that flower and
bear fruit at different times of the year. Shrubs thatproduce berries can provide food throughout the year. Treeswith nuts and fruit can also provide seasonal foods. Flowersand fruits of some plants attract hummingbirds and butterfliesto your backyard. You also can construct birdhouses andother shelter and put out commercial bird feed.
In your backyard
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MaggieStrucker
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*This plant could become invasive in some areas. Please check with alocal authority (see back cover) to determine whether it is potentiallyinvasive where you live.
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Flowers for birdsAsterConeflowerCoreopsisSunflower*
Nectar plants forhummingbirdsHummingbirds are typicallyattracted to red and yellowtubular flowers, althoughthey frequently visit othersas well.Bee balmColumbineDelphinium*FuchsiaJewelweedLobeliaNative honeysucklePenstemonPhloxSalvia*Trumpet creeper*
Additional food andshelter for birdsYou can provide additionalfood and shelter for birdsand other wildlife by build-ing or purchasing feedersand houses and by settingout certain foods. Watchingbirds feeding can be anenjoyable pastime. Find outwhich birds spend the win-ter in or migrate throughyour area, and provide foodfor them. Check to seewhich birds are most com-
mon and which are rare orin special need of food andshelter. Many species ofbirds can be attracted by avariety of feed in differentstyles of feeders. Be sure toput feeders out of reach ofpredators.
Common foodfor birdsHummingbird:Sugar water (1 part sugar to4 parts water) in a feeder.Every 3-4 days, wash feederwith a little bleach andwater, rinse thoroughly, andadd new sugar water.Oriole:Citrus fruit on a nailTitmouse, nuthatch, chick-adee, and many others:Black oil sunflower seedsGoldfinch, pine siskin:Thistle seedWoodpecker, wren:Plain suet in a suet feeder
Note:Use of feeders couldattract some wildlife species thatyou may not want to feed, suchas starlings, crows, and squir-rels. Type and placement offeeders and the type of food canhelp deter unwanted species.
BirdhousesChoose a location that birds will find appealing andsecure, usually away from the bustle of human activi-ty. Make or buy a birdhouse specifically designedfor the species of bird you want to attract. The size of
the hole is most critical to prevent the eggs and young frombeing destroyed by larger birds; always check a list of appro-priate hole sizes.
PREVIOUS PAGE(top)White-crownedSparrow; (bottomright) Supplementalfood for birds;(bottom left)Interspersed nativeplants.
THIS PAGE(top right) Anna’sHummingbird;(bottom right)Eastern Bluebird,feeding young innestbox.
©JanetZ
inn
VirgilKetner
Photo copyright Ed Erkes–Used with Permission
W I L D L I F E H A B I T A T
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Dead, dying, and hollow trees and logsMany people are not aware of the value of dead, dying, and hollow trees, as well as logs onthe ground, for wildlife. Dead trees provide homes to over 400 species of birds, mammals,and amphibians. Fish, insects, plants, and fungi also benefit from dead and dying trees.
Consider leaving standing dead and dying trees in your yard unless they pose a human safety orproperty hazard, and use downed woody materials in gardens and landscaping.
Attracting butterflies to your yardColorful butterflies add beauty and interest to your backyard. There are hundreds of differentspecies of butterflies in North America. Butterflies require food in liquid form, such as nectarproduced by plants. They get some of it from flowers and from juices of extra-ripe fruits. Thetypes of flowering plants you grow will determine the kinds of butterflies you will attract toyour backyard. Observe species nearby, and use plants that attract them. Provide nectar-richflowers for adult butterflies and foliage for caterpillars. Do not use insecticides near plants forbutterflies.
Nectar plants forbutterfliesAsterAzaleaButterfly bush*Butterfly weed andother milkweedsConeflowerLantana*LupinePhloxZinnia
Plants for caterpillarsCaterpillars, the larval stageof butterflies, need nourish-ment as well. Plants for cater-pillars include:AspenBirchButterfly weed andother milkweedsDillHollyhockSennaSorrelSpicebushWillow
Attracting bees toyour yardIn the United States, there arenearly 5,000 different speciesof native bees—almost all ofthem solitary bees that nestin holes in the ground or bur-rows in twigs and dead treelimbs. These bees don’t havehives to protect so they arenot aggressive and rarelysting. Bumblebees, carpenterbees, sweat bees, leafcutterbees, digger bees, and otherspollinatemany differentkinds of plants, and play acritical role in healthy wildplant communities and gar-dens. Some 30 percent of ourdiet is the direct result of pol-linating visits by bees to flow-ering fruit trees and vegetableplants. Providing bee habitat
StephenL.Buchmann
StephenL.Buchmann
Some corporate lands areset aside and managedjust for wildlife habitat.Through Wildlife HabitatCouncil-assisted projects,more than 2.4 millionacres in 48 States, PuertoRico, and 16 othercountries are managed forwildlife.
Habitat projects oncorporate lands are
corporate-drivencooperativeefforts amongmanagement,employees, thecommunity, localconservationgroups, and local,State, and Federalagencies.
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in your yard can increase thequality and quantity of yourfruit and vegetable harvests.
Nectar plants for beesBees are attracted to mostflowering plants, and are espe-cially fond of blue and yellowflowers. Try planting your gar-den so you have differentspecies blooming in thespring, summer, and fall.Plants for bees include:Bee balmBlack-eyed Susan*Cardinal flowerClover and other legumes*Cosmos*Crape myrtleGoldenrodLupineMallowMilkweedMintSunflower*
Bee housesA good use for scraplumber (at least 3 to5 inches thick) is todrill holes (from 1/8-
inch to 5/16-inch in diame-ter) about 90 percent of theway into the thick woodenblock. Space the holes about1/2-inch to 3/4-inch apart.The 5/16-inch holes workbest as homes for orchardbees, which are excellent pol-linators of fruit trees. Hangyour bee blocks under theeaves of your house or gar-den shed, protected fromdirect sun and rain.
Attracting bats toyour yardBats can be beneficial andinteresting mammalianspecies in your neigh-borhood. Bats are amongthe most importantconsumers of night-flyinginsects, including mos-quitoes, moths, and beetles.For example, a single littlebrown bat can catch morethan 600mosquitoes inan hour.Watching bats
On corporate lands
PREVIOUS PAGE(top)Monarch butterfly onconeflower; (bottom right)Digger bee; (left) Giantswallowtail after emerging fromchrysalis.
THIS PAGE(top right) Canada Goose;(bottom) Egret over wetland;(left) Pallid bat with insect.
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Bill Welker, USDA
Lynn Betts, USDA
Merlin
D.Tuttle,BatCo
nservation
International
*This plant could become invasive in some areas. Please check with alocal authority (see back cover) to determine whether it is potentiallyinvasive where you live.
W I L D L I F E H A B I T A T
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fly around light postscatching bugs can be aninteresting nighttimeactivity.
To help attract bats and pro-vide them with much-neededroosting habitat, you maywant to consider putting abat house in your yard. Thehouses should be placed onpoles or buildings at least15 feet high in a spot thatreceives 6 or more hours ofsun per day. Tree trunks areusually too shady for batboxes. Some species, such asred bats and hoary bats, willuse foliage of shrubs and
trees, while others, such asevening and Indiana bats, willroost under loose bark or incavities.
As with all wildlife, batsshould be watched but nothandled or chased. Bats aregenerally shy of humans, andrarely “attack” or fly after aperson, but if caught orpicked up from the ground,a bat may bite in self-defense. Keep a respectfuldistance from all bats.
Water for wildlifeClean, fresh water is as important to birds, bats, and otherwildlife as it is for people. Water in a saucer, bird bath, orbackyard pond gives wildlife the water they need. Rememberto change the water every few days to keep it fresh. In hotweather, it may be necessary to refill the container every day.
Logs, rocks, and other in-water structures provide drinkingand basking habitat for turtles, butterflies, and songbirds.Stones with depressions that collect water will help attractbutterflies.
Reduce chemicalsButterflies, birds, bees, and all wildlife are very vul-nerable to many pesticides and other chemicals.Probably the best single thing a gardener can do for
wildlife is to minimize chemical use. If you use chemicals,always follow label instructions.
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ildlifeProductions
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Farmers are installing grass, tree,and shrub plantings; ponds; andother wildlife habitat at recordrates. Buffer strips along water-ways, grass areas, and nativeprairie plantings are some of thepractices used on farms. Nestingstructures such as bird and bathouses are sometimes providedfor wildlife. Some farmers plant orleave food plots of corn, millet, orother grains specifically forwildlife.
Pheasants, grouse, quail, prairiechickens, and songbirds, as well
as leopard frogs, diamond-backterrapin, red bats, and otherwildlife, benefit from habitat thatfarmers and ranchers establish ontheir land. Farmers appreciateand enjoy wildlife supported bygood habitat and also benefitfrom pollination and pest controlby beneficial insects.
On the farm
PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Backyard pond with lily pads and frogs;(bottom) Cleaning birdbath; (left) Thistle feed-er with American Goldfinches.
THIS PAGE(top right) Eastern Bluebird, male; (bottomright) Streamside buffer of trees and otherplants; (bottom left) Red-eared and paintedturtles; (top left) A backyard pond.
RonNichols,USD
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MaggieStrucker
Photo copyright Ed Erkes–Used with Permission
Lynn
Betts,USD
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Lynn Betts, USDA
B A C K Y A R D P O N D
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Abackyard pond will likelybecome the focal point for allyourbackyardconservation.
Where to put a backyard pondConsider locating your backyard pond in view of a deck or patiowhere everyone can enjoy it. Have it blend in with its natural sur-roundings. Plan to landscape around the pond to providehabitat for frogs and birds that need land and water. Be sure elec-trical service is available for a pump, filter system to keep waterfresh, or for lighting. There will be less maintenance and cleanupand most aquatic plants will grow better if your pond is notunder trees.
When to install a backyard pondYou can put in a backyard pond any time the ground isn’t frozenor overly wet. Plan on taking at least a weekend to install andlandscape.
Backyard pond suppliesMost sites will require lining with an impervious material tohold a constant water level. A flexible linermade of sheets ofstrong plastic is generally the easiest way to line your pond.Flexible liners may make it easier for the pond to fit into thenatural surroundings of your yard. Pre-formed rigid liners alsoare available, but generally are more expensive and moredifficult to install. A wooden half barrel with a liner makes anice small, above-ground pond. You’ll also need a pump andfilter to maintain clean water and healthy fish. You can addplants, landscaping, heaters, or special effects like fountains andwaterfalls.
Size and depthCommon regrets of backyard pond owners are that the pond wastoo small or too shallow. Minimum depth for fish is 18 inches; adeep end of 2 or 3 feet is recommended. Size and shape of pondswith rigid liners are dictated by the liners. A pond with a flexibleliner may be any shape or size.
Establishing plantsFree-floating plants are an integral part of keeping the water inyour pond clear. Use native plants that are recommended for yourarea.
In your backyard
Backyard ponds are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish, andyou and your family. These ponds are typically small,sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Water is
very effective in drawing wildlife to your backyard. It is also anatural, relaxing, and scenic addition that can provide interestand enjoyment.
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JimArchambeault
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Also use submerged pots of water lilies, iris,spikerush, arrow-arum, duck potato, marshmarigold, and other native wetland plants.Natives are hardy and typically surviveover winter in the backyard pond, unlikemost non-native, tropical species.
Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of thewater surface. Set the plants 1 to 2 inchesunder water; the pots may need to be sup-ported by submerged rocks or bricks. Ifyou are using native plants, there is usuallyno need to fertilize them. For some exoticwater lilies, limited fertilizing—once year-ly—may be required. Check with yournursery on care of plants and how deep toplace potted plants. Be aware that overfer-tilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms,which can rob the water of oxygen.
Add fish and scavengersConsider stocking your backyard pond withfish. They are fun to watch, and help keepthe pond free of unwanted insects. You’ll alsoneed scavengers, such as aquatic snails andtadpoles, to help control algae. In cold cli-mates, a heater may be necessary for fish tosurvive the winter. Be aware that heaters canuse large amounts of electricity.
For small visitorsFill a small area with sand or gravelto create a shallow area where beesand butterflies can drink.
SafetyLocate the backyard pond where it is unlikelythat unattended children or pets may beattracted to it. Check local safety ordinancesto determine if a fence is required for the spe-cific depth and size of your pond. Check localbuilding ordinances for depth and safetyrestrictions and permits. Equip outdoor out-lets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter.
More helpYour local nursery, landscaper, or other sup-plier can give you more information on thestep-by-step process of building a backyardpond, selecting and establishing suitableplants in and around it, and landscaping.
A properly locatedand maintained farmpond can help stopgully erosion andimprove waterquality. Ponds providewater for livestock,waterfowl, and fish;store water foremergencies; and addbeauty to thelandscape.
Wildlife use ponds forwater and habitat. Asone Iowa farmer saysabout his pond, “I wasalways taught thatone generation doesfor the next, and wethought leaving theland and water inbetter conditionwould be somethinggood to leave to ourchildren andgrandchildren.”
On the farm
PREVIOUS PAGERecirculating water in backyardpond.
THIS PAGE(top) Landscaped backyard pond;(right) Fishing in farm pond; (left)Your “pond” may be as simple as abirdbath.
JimArchambeault
Lynn
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TimMcCabe,USD
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B A C K Y A R D W E T L A N D
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Wetlands filter excess nutrients,chemicals, and sediment, andprovide habitat for a host ofinteresting creatures.
Many yards can support a backyard wetland that bene-fits you and your community. Letting runoff fromyour roof, parking area, and lot slowly filter through
a mini-wetland helps prevent pollution of neighboring creeksand may help prevent flooding.
In your backyard
Where to put a wetlandLow areas that remain wet or damp much of the year are theeasiest places to establish wetlands. Any depression that col-lects rainwater or runoff from downspouts, or serves as thepath of drainwater leaving your yard, is an excellent spot toplant wetland plants. You’ll create a backyard wetland areathat will be very lowmaintenance.There will be no more“bogged down” lawn mowers because no mowing will be need-ed! The area will attract wildlife and filter the water drainingoff your property. If you do not have an appropriate natural site,you can create a wetland the same way you would a backyardpond. Do not put excess fertilizer or pesticides on your lawn orother areas feeding your wetland.
How to build a wetlandPartially blocking an existing drainage way or digging a shallowbasin may be all you need to do if you have clay soil that naturallyholds water. In better drained soil or where you want your wet-land to stay wet most of the time, you can dig a shallow depres-sion and bury a plastic liner as you would to create a backyardpond. How long the area stays flooded or wet during the growingseason is key to the types of plants to use. If runoff will not natu-rally keep the area wet enough, you will need to have a supply ofwater available for occasional use.
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GeneWhitaker
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Important! Because of the variety of potential conditions thatyou can create, and the potential side-effects of blockingdrainage ways, you should always consult an expert beforestarting a wetland project.
What to plantAwide variety of attractive plants can grow in wet areas. Cattailsand many varieties of reeds thrive in the open sun and are easy tocare for. Many species are not harmed by long dry periods duringthe summer. Cardinal flowers, sweet flag, and pickerel weedthrive in wet areas. Trees and shrubs like black gum, water oak,red-osier dogwood, button bush, and sweet pepper bush addtexture, color, and beauty to any landscape, and are adaptedto poorly drained soil. A variety of attractive ferns, skunk cab-bage, and Jack-in-the-pulpit grow well in wooded wetlands that
are damp and shaded. If you create bog conditions of permanent-ly damp organic soil, you can grow native orchids, Venus flytrap,and sundew.
Wildlife in your wetlandMany birds and small animals will quickly start usingyour wetland. Usually frogs, toads, salamanders, andaquatic insects will find your wetland during the first spring.A deep, permanent pool in the wetland can support nativefrogs, toads, and possibly fish that will eat mosquito larvaand other insects. Most frogs and toads need spring pools inwhich to breed; their tadpoles need shallow water for severalweeks while they mature. Wetlands that dry out in the summercan support a variety of plants and wildlife and will not pro-duce mosquitoes.
Wetlands filter excess nutrients, chemicals, and sediment fromrunoff, keep ground water pure, hold back flood waters, providehabitat for migratory birds and local wildlife, and add beauty to thelandscape. Across the country, many farmers are restoring wet areasin cropland and pasture to fully functioning wetlands that benefittheir land and the environment.
On the farm
PREVIOUS PAGEWetland plants in low areabetween buildings.
THIS PAGE(top)Wet area below a springgrows wetland plants; (right)Common Yellowthroat, male;(bottom) Restored prairiepothole wetland.
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© Janet Zinn
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C O M P O S T I N G
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A ll organic matter eventually decomposes. Compostingspeeds the process by providing an ideal environmentfor bacteria and other decomposing micro-organisms.
The final product, humus or compost, looks and feels like fer-tile garden soil. This dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling stuff workswonders on all kinds of soil and provides vital nutrients to helpplants grow and look better.
Decomposing micro-organisms need four key elements to thrive:nitrogen, carbon, moisture, and oxygen. For best results,mixmaterials high in nitrogen (such as clover and fresh grass clip-pings) and those high in carbon (such as dried leaves andtwigs). If there is not a good supply of nitrogen-rich material, ahandful of general lawn fertilizer will help the nitrogen-carbonratio. Moisture is provided by rain, but you may need towateror cover the pile to keep it damp. Be careful not to saturatethe pile. Oxygen is supplied by turning or mixing the pile.More turning yields faster decomposition.
Composting turnshousehold wastes intovaluable fertilizer.
In your backyard
Getting startedMany materials can be added to a compost pile, including leaves,grass clippings, straw, woody brush, vegetable and fruit scraps,coffee grounds, livestock manure, sawdust, and shredded paper.Avoid using diseased plants, meat scraps that may attract animals,and dog or cat manure, which can carry disease.
Composting can be as simple or as involved as you would like,and depends on how much yard waste you have, how fast youwant results, and the effort you’re willing to invest.
Cold compostingWith cold composting, you can just pile grass clip-pings and dry leaves on the ground or in a bin. Thismethod requires no maintenance, but you’ll have towait several months to a year for the pile to decom-
pose. Cold composting works well if you’re short on time orhave little yard waste. Keep weeds and diseased plants out ofthe mix. Add yard waste as it accumulates.
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Betts,USD
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1919
On the farm
Like composting, wastemanagement on the farm turnsa potential waste into aresource that saves money andhelps the environment.
Producers use livestock manureto fertilize crops. When manureis properly handled, it can be
safely applied to the landwithout the risk of pollutingwater.
Composting is also practiced insome poultry operations. Thecompost is used as fertilizer onthe farms and for lawns andgardens.
Hot compostingHot composting requires more work, but with a few minutesa day and the right ingredients you can have finished compostin a few weeks. Hot piles must be built all at once in a 4- to 5-foot cube and turned regularly. As decomposition occurs, thepile will shrink. A 3-foot cube is needed to maintain necessaryheat. Hot piles can reach 110 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit,killing most weed seeds and plant diseases.
■ On a level site, lay down bricks or prunings to promote aircirculation.
■ Spread several inches of the high-carbon material, then mixhigh-carbon and high-nitrogen material together. Waterperiodically.
■ Punch holes in the sides of the pile for aeration.■ The pile will heat up and then begin to cool. Start turningwhen the pile’s temperature begins to drop.
Move materials from the center to the outside and vice versa.Turn every day or two and you should get compost in lessthan 4 weeks. Turning every other week will give compost in1 to 3 months. Finished compost will smell sweet and be cooland crumbly to the touch.
PREVIOUS PAGENutrient-rich compost
THIS PAGE(top) A healthy backyard; (top right) Finishedcompost; (bottom right) Finished compost showingcrumbly structure; (bottom)Manure storage tank.
MaggieStrucker
Steven J. Saffier
Steven J. Saffier
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Betts,USD
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M U L C H I N G
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Mulchingcools, protects,and enrichesthe soil.
Leaving theprevious year’s cropstubble on the soilsurface is calledconservation tillage.This practice helps keep wind from blowing soilparticles and helps stop rain from washing soilaway. Also, research is showing that leaving cropresidues helps hold carbon in the soil and aids inreducing greenhouse gases. This practice is oftenused in combination with other conservationmeasures such as wind strips or contour farming.
On the farm
Mulching involves placing a layer of organic materialaround plants. As mulch decomposes, it adds organ-ic matter to the soil. This provides important nutri-
ents for plants and an ideal environment for earthworms andother organisms that help enrich the soil.
Mulching can recycle yard wastes and improve your soil.Mulch protects soil from erosion, prevents weed growth,conserves soil moisture, stabilizes soil temperature, reducescompaction, and keeps clean and dry any fruit orvegetable that touches the ground.
Mulch materialsThe best place to look for mulch materials is in your ownyard. Grass clippings and leaveswork well for mulching ifthey are dry and weed free. Avoid adding clippings to yourvegetable garden from lawns that have been treated with weedkiller within the last two mowings. If you live near farmingareas, you may be able to get old hay from a farmer or feedstore.
Compost makes an excellent organic mulch material. It addsnutrients to the soil and has a natural appearance. Wood chipsand bark work well around trees and shrubs and make attrac-tive walkways through gardens.
Applying mulchApply mulch when plants are established and soil iswarm. First, water your garden well. Then place a layer ofmulch around the plants. Thickness of the mulch layer variesfor each material:
Dry grass clippings 2 inchesShredded hardwood mulch,straw, or wood chips 2 to 4 inchesCompost 3 to 4 inchesDry leaves 6 inches
You will help insulate the root zone and lower evaporationrates if you liberally apply mulch. Be careful not to smotherthe plants. As the mulch breaks down, add more material tothe top throughout the growing season. After harvest, workthe mulch into the soil to integrate the organic matter, orleave it on the surface to decay naturally and be carried intothe soil by earthworms.
In your backyard
6
June Davidek, USDA
Gene Alexander, USDA
On the farmAgricultural producerssample soils for nutri-ent needs. As technol-ogy becomes avail-able and affordable,more producers arevarying fertilizer rateswithin each field,depending on soil testresults. This precisionfarming methodplaces the correctamount of fertilizerwhere it is needed.Applying only thosenutrients plants canuse improves the farmeconomically andenvironmentally.
N U T R I E N T M A N A G E M E N T
21
Apply only thosenutrients theplants can use.
Nutrients are essential for good plant growth, butoverapplying nutrients is not good for plants or for theenvironment. Excess nutrients leach through the soil and
end up in ground water, or run off into storm sewers and end upchoking a lake or stream.
The three primary plant nutrients are nitrogen,phosphorus, and potassium. Generally, nitrogenpromotes top growth, phosphorus helps developstronger roots and more flower and fruitproduction, and potassium builds durability anddisease resistance.
Remember to consider native plants or others with low fertiliz-er needs.
Soil test is keyThe key to good nutrient management on the farm and in yourbackyard is a reliable soil test. Without a soil test, you could beapplying too much, too little, or the wrong nutrients. You’ll want aseparate soil test for your lawn and for your garden.
Commercial soil test kits are available at nurseries and lawn andgarden suppliers. Ask for information on how to take your soilsamples. Apply only the nutrients needed according to the soiltest, and at the right time. Never exceed the recommended rate.
Fertilizing lawns■ Use slow-release nitrogen fertilizers.■ Mow often, and leave grass clippings on the lawn for fertilizer.■ Be careful not to spread fertilizer on sidewalks and driveways.■ Be sure to calibrate your spreader correctly.
Fertilizing gardens■ Use compost to enhance or replace fertilizers.■ Choose a level site, or terrace the garden, to avoid runoff anderosion.
■ Place fertilizer near plants rather than broadcast it over theentire garden.
■ Add organic matter to the soil by using manures and organicfertilizers at a conservative rate.
In your backyard
7
PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Applying shreddedmulch; (bottom) Soybeansgrowing through cornresidue.
THIS PAGE(top right) Using soil testkit in yard; (bottom)Testing soil on the farm;(top left) Curbside runoffdrains to lake.
Lynn Betts, USDA
Amy Janssen Smith, USDA
Lynn
Betts,USD
A
T E R R A C I N G
22
Terracingmakes flowerand vegetablegardeningpossible onsteep slopes.
T erraces can break your backyard into several mini-gardens. On steep slopes, terracing can make planting agarden feasible. Terraces prevent erosion by shortening
the long slope into a series of shorter, more level steps. Thisallows heavy rains to soak in rather than run off and causesoil erosion.
Materials for terracesBuilding terraces is like building a staircase. The material youuse to make the face of the stair may be treated lumber—suchas railroad ties, poles, or posts—or bricks, rocks, concreteblocks, or similar materials.
Height of wallsThe steepness of the slope often dictates wall height. Makethe terraces in your yard high enough so the land areabetween them is fairly level. Be sure the terrace material isstrong enough and anchored well enough to stay in placethrough freezing and thawing, rainstorms, and so forth. Largeprojects, such as retaining walls, may require a professionaldesign and specialized assistance and equipment. Be sure tocheck local building codes regarding the installation of highwalls, and work safely.
Erosion control is a considerationHeavy rains can cause erosion between terraces, and createsmall gullies if water concentrates as it goes over a terrace.To help prevent erosion, addmulch or other good groundcover on land between terraces.
In your backyard
Terraces catch runoffwater, let the watersoak into the ground,and deliver the excesssafely to the bottom ofa hillside—much likeeavespouts on ahouse. The earthenridges built around ahillside on the contourcut a long slope intoshorter slopes,preventing water frombuilding to a highlyerosive force.
Some terraces areseeded to grass, whichprovides erosioncontrol and a nestingarea for birds. Terracesare often used incombination with otherconservation practicesto provide morecomplete soilprotection.
On the farm
8
Ron Nichols, USDA
Gene Alexander, USDA
W A T E R C O N S E R V A T I O N
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If you rely on watering to make your lawn grow and yourgarden productive, consider a more efficient system. Thereare several ways to improve the use of water.
Use water againWhen it rains, if no water recycling system has been planned,the water that runs off your house keeps on going to the stormsewer. By saving that water, and reusing it on your garden orlawn later, you save energy and water.
A simple recycling system directs water from eavespouts to astorage barrel. You fill a bucket with water from the storagebarrel and carry the water to your garden. This is a simple andeffective system. However, you may want a more elaboratemethod of capturing and distributing rain water.
Watering to save energyWhenever practical, water in the early morning. Inarid climates, it’s okay to water in the evenings and atnight. You’ll lose less water to evaporation than if youwatered in the middle of the day, and the plants are less
stressed and can take up the water more efficiently.
Mulch or fiber cloth preserves soil moisture. You can find sup-plies and information at a nursery or hardware store.
Consider planting native species. They usually use little or nowater beyond normal rainfall.
Drip irrigation benefitsA drip irrigation system will provide water directly to theplant. You can control the flow to each plant.
Drip irrigationand other waterconservationpractices can savewater and money.
In your backyard
On the farm
Drip irrigation ranges from inexpensive soaker hoses toelaborate computerized systems. There may be an up-frontinvestment, but you’ll use less water and have better waterdistribution.
Garden or hardware stores will have the supplies you need. Youmay even want to engineer your own system from a gardenhose. Be sure not to overapply fertilizer when using a drip sys-tem.
Drip irrigation,commonly used onfruits and vegetables,minimizes the amountof water that evaporates,and it maximizes theamount that is used byplants. By placing thewater directly on theplant, or next to it, lesswater evaporates andless is wasted on baresoil.
High-efficiency irrigationsystems for row crops
use less energy to pumpwater and, since theyspray water downward,less water evaporatesbefore it reaches thecrop. Farmersimplement other watermanagement practicesto reduce the amount ofwater used to produce acrop.
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PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Terraced flowerbeds; (bottom) Farming grassed terraceson the contour.THIS PAGE(top) Drip irrigation in vegetable garden; (bottom) Efficientdrip irrigation on the farm.
Ron Nichols, USDA
Ron Nichols, USDA
P E S T M A N A G E M E N T
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Early detection andtreatment of pests meansa healthier growingenvironment.
Preventing pests■ Plant disease- and pest-resistant species.■ Select a variety of hardy plant species and space themproperly.
■ Select plants that bloom and bear fruit at different times ofthe year.
■ Plant flowers, herbs, and vegetables together and changethe location of annuals every year to prevent buildup ofcertain pests.
■ Clean up plant litter and remove weeds before they go to seed.■ Add bird and bat houses to the garden.■ Provide habitat for beneficial insects that prey on pests.■ Water and add nutrients properly to increase plant vigor.
Physical pest control■ Remove insects by hand.■ Wash pests away using a spray nozzle.■ Set traps.■ Make physical barriers around plants, such as awire mesh fence partially sunk into the ground forrabbits, aluminum foil wrapped around vegetableplants for cutworms, and solid barriers to preventweeds from invading flower beds or vegetablegardens.
Beneficial insectsHaving the right insects in your garden or backyard can keep pestsand weeds in check. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, assassinbugs, and praying mantises, prey on insects that can harm yourplants. The following insects can help control pests in yourbackyard.
Good planning can putyou a step ahead ofunwanted insects,
weeds, and diseases. Healthy,vigorous plants minimize pestdamage.
Regular monitoring of yourlawn or garden is the best way
to stay on top of potentialplant health and pestproblems. If you see minimaldamage, it is often easiest tojust tolerate it and continuemonitoring. If pests begin tocause serious damage, there area number of treatmentmethods.
In your backyard
10
©ChuckYounger
Lynn
Betts,USD
A
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■ Ladybugs and lacewing larvae for controlling aphids and awide variety of other insects.
■ Praying mantises for controlling many insects.■ Seedhead weevils and other beetles for controlling weeds.■ Predatory mites for controlling pest mites, thrips, and manyothers.
■ Ground beetles for controlling caterpillars that attack treesand shrubs.
Chemical controlsIf the methods listed above fail to solve your pest problem, usechemicals of low toxicity and rapid decomposition.Alwaysread the label, follow directions, wear protective clothing,and spot-spray. Some of these chemicals are:■ Pesticidal soaps for aphids, scale crawlers, whiteflies, andthrips.
■ Insecticidal dusts for aphids, beetles, fleas, ticks, ants, andcrickets.
■ Horticultural oils for aphids, mites, leafhoppers, mealybugs,scales, plant lice, and mosquito larvae.
■ Botanicals for leafminers, fleas, and ticks.
Proper pest management on the farm involves a variety ofpractices, like rotating crops to reduce disease and insectproblems, and establishing tall grass hedges to providehabitat for beneficial insects. Most farmers now monitortheir fields regularly, a practice called “scouting,” to keeptrack of insect and weed populations. Only when popula-tions reach a level where an unacceptable amount ofdamage is likely are direct control measures initiated.
When pesticidesare necessary,farmers fill andclean tanks awayfrom watersources, mixonly necessary amounts, and apply only to land whereproblems exist.
Before you apply pesticides, make sure that they will not harmbeneficial insects or be hazardous to humans, pets, or wildlife.
Living in harmony with wildlifeIn some instances, practices described in this book couldattract unwanted wildlife, or more of a species than is desir-able. If you have problems with any wildlife species, mostnurseries or garden stores and the organizations listed in the“Where To Get Additional Assistance” section at the back ofthis book can provide information on preventing or control-ling them. The government agencies listed can provide infor-mation on Federal and State regulations regarding protectionof wildlife species. Equipped with the right information andtools, most people are able to solve their own problems andlive in harmony with wildlife.
On the farm
PREVIOUS PAGE(top left)Aphids;(bottom left)Spot sprayingdandelion.
THIS PAGE(top)Ruby-crownedKinglet;(bottom)Scouting afarm field.©
JanetZ
inn
TimMcCabe,USD
A
E ven if you don’t have a backyard of your own, there aremany opportunities to use the practices in this book tocontribute to a healthy environment. Backyard ponds,
wetlands, native grass plantings, and plants that attractwildlife can improve school grounds, areas around apartmentsand businesses, community gardens, parks, and other commu-nity areas.
Consider starting a backyard conservation project in yourcommunity. Any vacant lot or unused space is a candidate forimprovement with natural plantings. A community gardencan be a source of pride as well as a source of food. A gardenalso can be a hands-on teaching center for natural resourceconservation concepts.
Businesses often sponsor community improvement projects incooperation with schools and civic organizations, which con-tribute labor.
E V E R Y B O D Y H A S A B A C K Y A R D
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Backyard practicescan be used in sharedspaces and publicplaces, too.In your school or community
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TomButler
BobNichols,USD
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Ways to promote backyard conservation in your neighborhood■ Encourage public officials to practice backyard conservation on parks and other publicproperty.
■ Plan projects in cooperation with neighboring property owners.■ Encourage community involvement.■ Encourage your building owner to use backyard conservation practices on the groundsaround the building.
■ Encourage school classes and other organizations to become involved in planning andcaring for the areas.
PREVIOUS PAGE(top) Restored community wetland; (center)Rufous Hummingbird, male; (bottom)Urban community garden.
THIS PAGE(top left) Planting to enhance communityareas; (top center) Eastern Bluebird,female, feeding young; (top right)Mulch ofgrass clippings on vegetable garden; (bottomright) Arboretums and parks foster interestin gardening, horticulture, andenvironmental issues; (bottom left) Fun andlearning in a school garden.
Colleen
Schneider,USD
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Lynn
Betts,USD
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WendellLong
Jim Archambeault
BobNichols,USD
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BobNichols,USD
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Audubon At Home■ For information on creating healthy habitatsin your backyard and beyond, visithttp://www.audubon.org and click onAudubon At Home. To find your nearestAudubon chapter or center, click on States,Centers & Chapters. For more information,write to [email protected]
Backyard conservation practices■ Bat Conservation International512-327-9721http://www.batcon.org
■ Wildlife Habitat Council301-588-8994E-mail: [email protected]://www.wildlifehc.org
■ Your local USDA Service Center (listed inyour phone book under U.S. government,Department of Agriculture)
■ USDA Natural Resources ConservationService202-720-3210http://www.nrcs.usda.gov
■ USDA Farm Service Agency202-720-9563http://www.fsa.usda.gov
BackyardWildlife Habitat■ National Wildlife FederationBackyard Wildlife Habitat Program703-438-6000http://www.nwf.org/backyardwildlifehabitat/
Developing andmanagingwildlife habitats and controllingunwanted wildlife
■ Your State fish and wildlife agency (listed inyour phone book under State government)
■ International Association of Fish andWildlife Agencies202-624-7890www.iafwa.org
■ TheWildlife Services office nearest you(listed in your phone book under U. S.government)
■ USDA Animal and Plant Health InspectionService301-734-7921http://www.aphis.usda.gov
Horticulture, wildlife, urbanforestry■ Your local extension office (listed in yourphone book under local government)
■ A land-grant university
■ Cooperative State Research, Education andExtension Service, USDAhttp://www.csrees.usda.gov
■ National Arbor Day Foundation888-448-7337http://www.arborday.org
■ USDA Forest Servicehttp://www.fs.fed.us202-205-8333
■ Your State forester (listed in your phonebook under State government)
Locally-led conservationinitiatives■ Your local conservation district (listed inyour phone book under countygovernment)
■ National Association of ConservationDistricts202-547-6223http://www.nacdnet.org
Pollinators, bee gardens■ North American Pollinator ProtectionCampaign415-362-1137http://www.pollinator.orghttp://www.nappc.org
■ International Sonoran Desert Alliancehttp://www.isdanet.org
■ University of California, Berkeleyhttp://nature.berkeley.edu/urbanbeegardens
■ USDA-ARS Carl Hayden Bee ResearchCenterhttp://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov
Restoring and protectingwildlife habitat
■ Your local U.S. Fish andWildlife Serviceoffice (listed in your phone book under U.S.government, Department of the Interior)■ U.S. Fish andWildlife Servicehttp://www.fws.gov
Watersheds, oceans, andwetlands protection■ U.S. Environmental Protection Agencyhttp://www.epa.gov/owow/Wetlands Helpline: 1-800-832-7828Safe Drinking Water information:http://www.epa.gov/safewater
Other sources of information■ Local garden centers
■ Landscapers
■ Garden clubs
■ Native plant societies
WHERE TO GET ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCEAdditional information on backyard conservation is available onthe Web at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/backyard. For more informationon the following topics, please contact the organizations listed below:
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimi-nation in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color,national origin, age, disability, and where applicable, sex, maritalstatus, familial status, parental status, religion, sexual orientation,genetic information, political beliefs, reprisal, or because all or apart of an individual’s income is derived from any public assistanceprogram. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Personswith disabilities who require alternative means for communicationof program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.)should contact USDA’s TARGETCenter at (202) 720-2600(voice and TDD). To file a complaint of discrimination write toUSDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, 1400 IndependenceAvenue, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20250-9410 or call (800) 795-3272 (voice) or (202) 720-6382 (TDD). USDA is an equalopportunity provider and employer.
Issued February 1998Revised April 2007
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FRONT COVER (top) Contour stripcropping,Tim McCabe, USDA; (center)Cedar Waxwing, © TomMunson
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