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Background of formation of the historical scenic beauty of Kyoto

1 Geography, climate and weather of Kyoto

Kyoto is located in the south of Kyoto

Prefecture, surrounded by Mt. Hiei and

Higashiyama mountain range on the

east, Mt. Atago and Kitayama mountain

range on the north and the western

mountains. In the west, valleys of Saga

and Arashiyama are formed on both

sides of Hozu River. The south is open,

leading to Osaka Plains.

Kyoto basin, which is surrounded by

rolling hills on three sides, is used to be

at the bottom of a lake some ten

thousand years ago. Earth and sand

from mountains from north and east

have piled up and was uplifted forming

the basin, sloping mildly from north east

to south west. The ponds of Shinsen-en,

Midoroga-ike and Ogura-ike are said to

be remnants on the bottom of primeval

lake. The former two ponds still exist today while Ogura-ike was drained.

Another precious remnant of the lake is the high quality underground water arteries

which were used to support the basis of industries and cultures of Kyoto such as the

development of tea ceremony, gardening design, Yuzen dyeing, Sake brewing and other

food products.

In Kyoto basin, the limpid streams of Kamo River and Katsura River which, originate

from the surrounding mountains, mildly flow down through the urban area of the city

toward south. Since the beginning of Heian-kyo, rich green mountains and limpid

waters, later called “Purple Mountains and Clear Water” have formed the frame of the

historical climate cultivated during 1200 years of history.

Kyoto has two types of climate, one is the pacific front type and the other is the inland

type. It has four distinct seasons, summers being hot and humid while winters are

chilly to the bone. This is the fate of living in the basin. In such a rigid and diverse

weather, Kyoto has cultivated season awareness and consciousness for beauty since a

long time. They have loved the sense of beauty called “Flower, Bird, Wind and Moon”

西山

東山

北山

鴨川

桂川

Fig1-1 Topography of Kyoto

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and “Snow, Moon and Flower” in passing seasons. They have conducted a number of

events while missing a season passing by.

Meanwhile, intense humidity in summer has obvious effect on housing and livelihood.

For example, Kyo-machiya, or traditional town houses in Kyoto have a spot garden;

and the custom of sprinkling water on the street to generate breeze. In summer joinery

doors are replaced with those of having easy ventilation and summer furnishings are

arranged in reception rooms. Thus, a unique lifestyle has been created by the wisdom

and ingenuity of the ancestors of Kyoto.

※１ Shinsen-en

Shinsen-en is a garden located on a wet land at the time when Heian-kyo was constructed.

The garden was given this name because its land has been providing sacred spring water.

The area of the garden had been so vast until when Ieyasu TOKUGAWA built Nijo Castle in

Edo Period on it. Today only a small part of it is left in the south of Nijo Castle. A god of rain

called Zennyo Ryuoh is dedicated at Shinsen-en.

※２ Midoroga-ike

Having a perimeter of 1540m and the area of 9.2ha, Midoroga-ike pond is known for its

rare plants, creatures and a floating island. It has been designated as a national natural

treasure by the government.

Photo1-1 Aerial view of northern and eastern mountain ranges viewed from the urban center

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2 Social environment

Kyoto city area measures 29.18km from

east to west, 49.49km from south to north,

and its surface area is 827.90 ㎢ . The

population of Kyoto city is about 1.47milion.

It is one of the biggest cities of Kinki district,

similar to Osaka and Kobe cities.

These three cities are closely located

forming the Keihanshin Metropolitan

District which collect municipal function

centering around three cities.

Kyoto city which is surrounded on three

sides by mountains, has an area of about

82,790ha. Of this area, 74% is forest, 17% is urban district (14,000ha), and 3.4% is

agriculture land.

The Urban area of Kyoto city is centered around Kamigyo-, Nakagyo-, Shimogyo- and

Higashiyama-wards. They are collectively considered as historical downtown area that

was mostly founded during Edo and Meiji periods.

The traditional industries such

as the Nishijin textile, and Yuzen

dyed fabrics were created in this

downtown area and it is the area

where the industries and

residents coexist in harmony.

Specifically, the area around

Shijo-Karasuma as CBD and

Shijo-Kawaramachi as CSD plays

an important role as among not

only within city but also wider

Kyoto metropolitan district.

In contrast, in the southern and

western part of the urban area,

there are many factories engaged

in Secondary Industries such as

mechanical, electrical and

chemical industries which form

the foundation of “Manufacturing

Fig1-2 Kyoto City in Kinki Region

Fig-1-3 Graph showing land usage policy

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city; Kyoto ”.

Agriculture industry is performed in the suburbs, producing unique Kyoto vegetables

including Mibuna, a leafy vegetable, and Shogoin root vegetable. In Kitayama area,

forestry business famous nationwide for polished cedar log is operated.

Furthermore, with the long history of academic endeavor, Kyoto has developed a city

based on education.

As an example, after the Meiji Restoration, the first ever elementary school with

school district system in Japan was established in Kyoto. As a result, a great number

of national and local public universities have been established in Kyoto. In short, it is a

city which has been developing together with universities.

Nowadays, Kyoto’s name is at the top of the list of “City of Universities” in Japan. It

has numerous universities and research centers that are located in low-rise residential

area at the foot of the mountains on three sides and it’s inner edge where rich natural

environment and historical environment surround.

These intellectual and cultural resources have been often utilized for the

development and growth of enterprises of Kyoto.

The current public transportation network of Kyoto city consists of railways, subways

and busses. Although some regional disparity exists, it is comparatively well

organized.

There are two subway lines; one runs from Takaragaike in the north to Takeda in the

south and the other from Uzumasa Tenjingawa in the west to Rokujizo via Yamashina

in the east, forming one of the major means of transportation in downtown.

Nevertheless, JR line and other private railroads from Osaka and the private railroads

which extend from downtown to Arashiyama and Kurama area are also important

methods of transport for citizens.

Subway, private railroads, as well as city busses are used for urban transportation.

However, a survey of the public transportation users shows that although the use of

railroad is growing for commutation and free outing, the use of busses is declining

being used only for commutation. Furthermore, the use of buses for transportation

from railroad terminal to other destinations, has also dropped and the use of bicycle

has been increasing. Bicycle is a simple and convenient transportation method for

citizens because of the geography of Kyoto, most area of the downtown being flat with

few slopes (altitude difference). Actually, a survey about transportation method

conducted in three cities of Keihanshin area shows comparatively high rate of the use

of two wheeled vehicle in Kyoto city than Osaka and Kobe cities.

Means of access from outside to Kyoto city is generally by private car, private rail

roads and JR. The express highway from Osaka passing through Kyoto to Shiga is

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already operated. The Kyoto highway is partly open to traffic. Kyoto is also connected

to Tokyo, the most highly populated area in Japan by Tokaido-Shinkansen (bullet

trains). The inauguration of Shinagawa Station in Tokyo made it very convenient and

increased the number of passengers.

Major gateways to overseas are also easily accessible from Kyoto. Kansai

International Airport is directly connected by limited express train of JR. Chubu

International Airport and Narita International Airport are also conveniently linked by

Shinkansen.

This convenience of access is one of the reasons for the big number of domestic as well

as international visitors to Kyoto.

3 Comprehensive history of Kyoto

Kyoto is a historical city with 1200 years old history, counted from the relocation of

capital to Heian-Kyo (old name of Kyoto as the capital).

It has formed a profound historical scenic beauty with a depth that cannot be seen

anywhere else in Japan. This is achieved by preserving historical buildings, culture

and lifestyle that have been acquired and refined by several transitions in the course of

history, including that of prior to Heian Kyo period till present.

Here, we are going to bring to light the process of the formation of the city by looking

into the multi-layered history of Kyoto at each period from the view point of culture,

lifestyle, and history.

(1) Pre-Heian Period

The history of Kyoto is dating back to the Old Stone Age.

People made a living by hunting, picking grass or nuts, and moving around the

mountains surrounding Kyoto basin.

In the Jomon Period, people began to settle down in Kyoto basin and continued to

live by hunting, fishing in the river, and picking nuts. Relics from Jomon Period are

unearthed from various places in Kyoto basin. Particularly, numerous earthenware

and remnant of vertical cave housing have been found around Kita-shirakawa area

where many people lived there those days.

By the Yayoi Period, rice cultivation was introduced to Japan and also practiced in

Kyoto basin. Many small colonies emerged at low altitudes where making rice

paddies were easy. People learned how to use tools made from iron and bronze; and

began to form a society.

Many of the remnants of that period were found at the low altitude area of

southern part of Kyoto city (around Fushimi ward).

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By the introduction of rice cultivation, people of Kyoto basin developed advanced

flood control and irrigation system; and other agricultural techniques.

These agricultural, sericulture, spinning, and weaving techniques were brought

from Asian continent by ancient people who had migrated and spread rapidly in

Kyoto from Yayoii period to Kofun Period.

One of the immigrant clans, the Hata clan, brought new knowledge about various

industries, especially weaving technique with them. Their expertise in construction

engineering was also incredible. They constructed a huge dam on Katsura River

which often over flooded and caused damage. The dam prevented the flood and also

distributed the flow of river into a main stream and a drain to be used for irrigation.

Furthermore, Kawakatsu HATANO is well known for building Koryuji Temple in

603 A.D. This temple is reputed for its wooden statue of benevolent Bodhisattva

called Mirokubosatsu-hankazo, the first Japanese national treasure.

At the end of Nara period, Buddhist priests such as priest Dokyo become politically

influential and were engaged in politics. To separate Buddhism from politics and to

abolish Buddhist influence; and to strengthen his reign, Emperor Kanmu moved the

capital from Heijo-kyo to Nagaoka-kyo.

However, Emperor Kanmu was hagridden by the repeated disasters, including

Katsura River floods which were rumored as the curse of Prince Sawara –brother of

Emperor Kanmu. This forced the Emperor to relocate the capital from Nagaoka-kyo

to Heian-kyo only after 10 years.

(2) Heian Period

The History of Kyoto as the capital city of Japan has begun with the order of

Emperor Kanmu to relocate the capital from Nagaoka-kyo to Heian-Kyo by in 794

A.D.

It is said that Kyoto was

selected as the construction

site for Heian-kyo because it

fulfilled all the criteria needed

for being a suitable place for a

capital. Those conditions were

the “Shijhin So-oh” or four

good-luck gods based on Fen

Shui geomancy originated from China.

The Construction of Heian-kyo lasted from 793 A.D. to 805 A.D. and it was a

culmination of urban development of those days. It has been divided into two

Photo1-2 Scale model of Heiankyo capital

Provided by Kyoto City Library of Historical Documents

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symmetrical towns (wards) “Sakyo” and “Ukyo” by centered main road “Suzaku

Boulevard”. Heian-Kyo covered an area of 4.5km from east to west and 5.2km from

South to North.

The symmetrical town-Heian-kyo was pierced by “Suzaku Boulevard” as a central

axis from south to north. Rajo Gate which was situated the south edge of Heian-kyo

served as the main gate and on the opposite north edge verged to Heian palace

including emperor’s palace and imperial ceremonial buildings

Road construction of Heian-kyo was designed on the basis of grid street plan based

on Jo-Bo Zone system. Since then down to the present date, the grid street plan

layout has been the framework of city structure. The size of a square block unit

called “Cho” was about 120m on each side. The Henushi which was standard

measure of housing land for a family was defined by dividing “Cho” into 8 by length

and 4 by width to 32 small blocks.

Each “Cho” was surrounded by mud walls, wooden walls or fences. Jo-Bo was also

surrounded by reinforced earthen wall and Bo-mon gate of Sakyo and Ukyo area and

it facing Suzaku Boulevard was guarded by soldiers. Maintaining and fixing yards of

Jo-Bo of the entire Kyoto were so difficult that they began to wear out gradually. As a

result the movements of inhabitants in and out of the city could not be checked.

During the construction of Heiankyo, the course of rivers had been relocated along

the road from south to north and bridges were built at the cross point of roads from

east to west.

Specifically, Horikawa river was developed early on as water way to convey goods

and materials

Fig 1-4 System dividing an area into the width of4 and length of 8 blocks

Source:”Heiansento 1200nen Kinen Yomigaeruheiankyo”

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In contrast, the outer ward of Heian-kyo was completed only with an earthen wall

called Rajo which was located at south edge of Kujo Boulevard and Rajo gate at the

center of southern face because there were no threatening such as incursion of

aliens.

By the completion of the construction of Heiankyo, many major roads were linked

to it. The top arterial road to Heiankyo in ancient times was Sanyodo-road which

started from Dazaifu in Kyushu.

In addition, Kurama Trunk Road which was used as pilgrimage route for Kibune

Shrine and Kurama Temple, Wakasa Trunk Road which is known as Saba kaido

(mackerel trunk road) which connected Kyoto to Wakasa through northern

Fig1-5 Heian Period, before cloister government

Source:” Kyoto no Rekishi 1”

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mountains, were used from Heian Period. Saigoku Trunk Road which connects

western Japan and Rajo gate of Heiankyo was also constructed in Heian Period.

Starting with Umezu area located near Ohi river(Katsura River) which functioned

as the key point of water transportation, Yodo and Yamazaki area, a junction of Kizu

River, Uji River and Katsura River had played very important role as outer port of

Heiankyo by functioned as connecting point of water and land transportation.

The well-planned city of Heiankyo had designated separate area for the residence

of the noble citizens. The status hierarchy also reflected residential area. In the

middle of Heian Period, a large number of commoners began to live in Heiankyo and

it had begun to develop as a manufacturing and commercial city. Therefore, the

original city planning philosophy of Heiankyo gradually transformed.

The East and West markets which were constructed in the beginning of Heian

period were closely attached to the life of people of Kyoto. The desolation of Ukyo

area caused early collapse of West market. East market survived relatively longer

but the penetration of private stores and peddlers made both markets uninhabited

by the end of 10th century. By the end of 12th century, East market was also

desolated.

Inhabitants built huts under the outer earthen walls of the town facing the streets

which were used for dwelling and business transaction. As depicted on the picture

scroll called “Nenju Gyoji Emaki”, these structures were used as galleries during

festivals. The Kyoto town House or Kyo machiya originated from this period. In

Kamakura Period, residential places were expanded beyond on the streets. The

retired emperor’s palaces had begun to be built in the city center by 9th century.

Imperial palaces were repeatedly destroyed by fires, so the retired emperor’s palace

served as a temporary imperial place.

By the 11th century, the political center moved to the suburbs because of the

beginning of retired emperor’s ruling system. Many of the temples, villas, and

summer houses were built in Shirakawa, Toba and other suburbs of Heian-kyo.

Because of this, the outskirt of the city expanded and was urbanized. Some of these

examples are Hosshoji temple built by Emperor Shirakawa (in Okazaki area),

Rikushoji temples; means six “shoji temples” (Hosshoji, Enshoji, Saishoji, Seishoji,

Sonshoji temples) built by past emperors and imperial families and palaces. In the

era of Senior Emperor Shirakawa and Senior Emperor Toba, Toba Imperial Villa and

several temples were built as their places.

In early days of Heiankyo, in order to abolish the influence of Buddhism on the

political corruption by Nanto Buddhism, the number of temples in the city was

limited to only two. The political influence of Nanto Buddhism which was the

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spiritual backbone of Ritsuryo law system was one of the reasons of the relocation to

Heiankyo. Buddhism in this period was mostly of the Shingon sect and Tendai sect

which were tantric Buddhism with adhisthana prayer discipline. Basically, it mainly

focused on solving the routine affairs of imperial families and nobles.

By the middle of Heian Period, the school of Jodo sect which evangelized

posthumous salvation by Amitabha Tathagata begun to expand. At the end of Heian

Period, Buddhism did not remain to nobles, but spread out to common peoples which

formed the predecessor of New Kamakura Buddhism.

Regarding politics and administration, the Ritsuryo law system which had been

the foundation of politics and administration, entered a new stage. The influence of

Fujiwara clan had expanded. Although the status of emperors and imperial families

had demoted because of the new personnel systems of regent and chief advisor of

politics, the Ritsuryo law systems still prevailed. The regular placements of

administrative rulers, which were officiating the emperor, were institutionalized and

Fujiwara clan dominated these posts. However, the middle class aristocrats took the

posts of dispatched local rulers called Kokushi.

Furthermore, Kebiishi Office (the national security authority) was organized and

the authority of Kebiishi personnel were increased to the point that it even

interfered into the city affairs .

In mid 11th century, as the retired emperor’s ruling system had begun, the warrior

class appeared in the political scene. Kiyomori TAIRA, once a warrior guarding

emperors, enjoyed prosperity of his Taira clan concentrated in Rokuhara residential

area. He gained a firm grip on power. A mere warrior without any political heritage

and originally just a law enforcement and military guardian, held a position in the

national political scene. Obviously, this regime collapsed a short time later due to

lack of supporting backbone.

In 1185, the imperial court on the request of Yoritomo MINAMOTO who crushed

the TAIRA clan, appointed his high lank staff and some local lords as Shugo and Jito

(administrative authorities).

In 1190, Yoritomo MINAMOTO visited Kyoto to hold a formal meeting with

Emperor Goshirakawa. The Kyoto court recognized Kamakura feudal military

government as a legitimate authority to take charge of the entire military and police

forces throughout the country, thus, an agreement was reached between the two

sides.

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(3) Kamakura Period to Muromachi Period

From the end of Heian period, the power of warriors had begun to increase. At the

beginning of Kamakura period, Rokuhara area (Presently the area at the east bank

of Kamo River from Matsubara Street towards Shichi-Jo Street) which was located

in the outskirts of Heiankyo was urbanized because it was the center of power of

Heike Clan.

Although the political power of the Imperial court declined, Kyoto flourished as a

A typical example of Heian Period architecture

Representatives of famousarchitectures of Heian Period include

Toji Temple, Saiji Temple and Daigoji Temple. However Saiji

Temple does not exist anymore. The present five storied pagoda of

Toji Temple (Kyooh-gokokuji Temple) was reconstructed in Edo

Period. Daigoji Temple was originally founded by priest Seiho in

874 by building a hut on top of the mountain and enshrined two

deities of mercy. It was called Kami-Daigo later. In 926,

Shimo-Daigoji temple was founded and a five storied pagoda was

constructed. In 1994, Daigoji Temple and Toji Temple were

designated as World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO as part of

the “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto”.

※1, Shijin So-oh

Shijin or four gods means Blue dragon, White tiger, Red peacock and Black turtle and

snake.A river in the east, a wide street in the west, a lake in the south and a mountain

in the north correspond to these animals respectively that was believed to protect the

land. Shijin So-oh belief that came from China was a needed criterion for selecting the

location of capitals. Kyoto fulfilled all these needs i.e. Kamo river in the east, Sanyodo

Trunk Road in the west, Ogura Pond in the south and Mt. Funaoka in the north.

※2, Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto

Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto were included in the “List of World Heritage

Sites” in 1994. It consists of 17 cultural heritages located on the foot of mountains in the

east, north and west of Kyoto. Among them, 14 are located in the city.

Kamo-wakeikazuchi Shrine (Kamigamo Shrine), Kamo-mioya Shrine(Shimogamo

Shrine), Kyo-oh gokokuji Temple(Toji temple) Kiyomizu Temple, Daigoji Temple, Ninnaji

Temple, Tozanji Temple, Saihohji Temple, Tenryuji Temple, Rokuonji Temple( temple of

Golden Pavilion) Jishoji Temple(Temple of Silver Pavilion), Ryoanji Temple, Honganji

Temple and Nijo castle.

Photo1-3 Five storied pagoda,

Daigoji Temple

Provided by Daigoji Temple

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city of commerce and industry by the power of common people who had inherited the

traditional industrial technology from Heian Period.

Kyoto maintained its status as the center of Japanese Economy and Culture

beyond Kamakura period. By the mid 13th century, the former Sakyo Ukyo area

system was transformed to another system of “upper town” for imperial residences

and “lower town” for commerce and industries.

Toimaru or shipping company had appeared and started their businesses at Yodo

and Katsura ports, outer ports of Kyoto since Heian Period.

The construction of trunk roads by Kamakura Shogunate enabled the development

of “Shuku”, post stations in which inns for travelers and offices for forwarding

agencies were located, thus, facilitating citizens’ travel. As a result, the biggest

industrial city -Kyoto was tightly knitted with other cities.

From the end of Heian Period to Kamakura Period, because of the expansion of

Jodo philosophy and the introduction of Zen, new Buddhist sub-sects were created.

While the Heian Buddhism was mainly for nobles, Kamakura Buddism spread

among common people and warrior class who gained power then. The Rinzai and

Sotoh sects also spread among warriors while Jodo, Jodoshin, Ji, and Nichiren sects

spread among commoners.

After the fall of Kamakura Shogunate, which is the starting point of the regain of

sovereignty by Emperor Godaigo, the power center of the five Zen temples were

shifted from Kamakura to Kyoto.

At the beginning of Muromachi Period, Shogunate regime was established in Kyoto

and it became the commencement point of warrior rule. It is from this period that

the names for places such as “Raku-chu, “Raku-gai” or “Kamigyo” “Shimogyo” were

firmly embedded. Kamigyo area was developed as the residential area of authorities

such as court nobles and warriors, whereas Shimogyo became an economic activity

center where financial industries were gathered. Hence, the city functions were

divided into areas.

Typical examples of architectures of Kamakura Period.

Typical Buildings of Kamakura Period includes

the main hall of Daiho-on-ji Temple(Senbon

Shaka-do) and the main hall of Renge-ohin Temple

(Sanjusangen-do).

Photo1-4 Daiho-on-ji Temple

(Senbon shaka-do)

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The Five temples of Zen sect which

attracted warrior’s religious faith were

recognized and Rinzai sect was guarded

by Shogunate. At the beginning of

Muromachi period, a rift appeared

between the Zen sects such as those of

Nanzenji temple and the former

Buddhist power, Tendai sect of Enryakuji

Temple and they

started hostility

against each other

which caused

political problems.

Priest Soseki

MUSO who worked

together with Takauji

ASHIKAGA for

Tenryu-ji ships

dispatch had a great

impact on politics

and priests from the

five temples became

diplomatic advisors

when Japan and

Ming trading started

in Yoshimitsu era.

The close contact

between warrior

class and Buddhists left marks on Rokuonji temple of Kitayama culture and Jishoji

Temple of Higashiyama Culture. Moreover, pilgrimage became popular among

commoners.

Kyoto city was burned down by the long maelstrom of Ohnin war that begun in

1467 and lasted for 11years.

Except a small Kamigyo and Shimogyo areas, the rest of the city was totally burnt

after the war. Kamigyo and Shimogyo area was connected only by one road. However,

the people of Kyoto rebuilt their city with their untiring efforts. Different from the

former Jo-bo system, the renewed city was composed of “Ryogawa-cho” (literally, cho

Fig1-5 Heian Period, before cloister government

Fig1-6 Kyoto in Muromachi Period

Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 3”

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on both sides of street) . Recovery began from Kamino-Kyo, the area covering the

commercial town located in the west side of imperial palace and Nishijin textile

industry area, and Shimono-Kyo where merchants who were holding Gion Festival

resided.

Triggered by Ohnin War, citizens of Kyoto developed an autonomous body to protect

Fig-1-7 After Onin-Bunmei War in 1586

Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”

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their livelihood by themselves in the middle of the 16th century. Six communities

joined together and formed a federation called Chogumi, around the imperial

compound at first. Since then, Chogumi, were also formed in Kamigyo and Shimogyo

area and several of them with unique activities originate.

Socho organization; the ward system was also developed in this period. Shimogyo

Socho ward revived the Gion Festival which had been discontinued since Oh-nin war

and commoners played great role in the festivals.

Residents gathered at Sodo-auditorium and discussed about various problems. The

Cho or Chogumi became a foundation of citizen’s life.

Though the size of the city itself shrunk, people with various status like priests,

artisans, merchants, warriors, and nobles merged together. As a result, dense urban

activities in which people of every rank and field were closely linked were developed.

Thus, the urban culture of Kyoto was nurtured and sustained until today.

Furthermore, it was during this period that the temple towns which were scattered

in the Basin (Kamigamo and Nishinokyo) and Tsu-ports (Yodo and Fushimi)

regarded as Rakugai (the suburb), and Kamigyo and Shimogyo regarded as Rakuchu

(central town) were all together recognized as one entity.

Typical examples of architectures of Muromachi Period.

Typical architectures of Muromachi

period include Jishoji Temple or

temple of Silver Pavilion (national

treasure), Tower Gate of Yasaka

Shrine (important cultural property)

and the main hall of Fushimi Inari

Shrine (important cultural property).

Jisho-ji temple is endorsed in the

World Heritage List as “Historical

Monuments of Ancient Kyoto”.

Photo1-6 Jishoji Temple or Silver Pavilion Temple Provided by Jisho-ji Temple

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(4) Azuchi Momoyama Period

Nobunaga ODA and Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI managed to reconstruct Kyoto which

was destroyed by Ohnin War. Nobunaga entered Kyoto and started building a castle

with donjon and stone walls (old Nijo Castle) facing Muromachi street, which was a

hub between Kamigyo and Shimogyo. Nobunaga consolidated his military reign and

unified Kamigyo and Shimogyo areas.

Hideyoshi who succeeded Nobunaga carried out the most extensive public work

ever since Heiankyo. One of these works was the modification of Kyoto into a castle

town.

In 1587, he built Jurakudai Castle at a vacant lot of old imperial government

compound, and in 1591 he started building an earthen mound called Odoi

surrounding the downtown in order to reinforce the defense and prevent floods.

This also divided Kyoto in to Rakuchu and Rakugai,

※１ Ryogawa-cho

The original city plan of early Heian Period defined a square block as “1-Cho”which

was supporsed to have houses on east and west sides only. Since streets formed the

center of living for citizens, blocks were transformed to a four sided-house design

instead of the previous two-sided one. Thus, according to the increasing need for

streets as a living space, four sided-house design became 1- Cho. Later during the

warring state period, for the sake of easy defense, a new Cho system was created.

In this system, the sides of two previous Chos facing each other were defined as 1-

Cho. Such a Cho was called Ryogawa-cho which formed the shape of tortoise shell

pattern. Several of these Chos were combined forming a larger Cho which served as

a basic single autonomic community. Even now, such system still exists in some

parts of old downtown Kyoto.

Fig 1-8 Transition of Ryogawa-cho

- 25 -

In 1590, Hideyoshi started to

redesign the town by constructing

narrow streets which run through

the center of square blocks dividing

them into two rectangular blocks.

This design still remains now. The

open spaces left untouched at the

center of square blocks were also

used effectively. He also relocated

temples scattered around the city to

the edge of downtown around

Teramachi St. and Teranouchi St..

The final stage of a yearlong

renovation works of Kyoto from 1590

was completed with the finishing of

the earth mound. By this earth

mound, Rakuchu (inner city) and

Rakugai (outer city) was spatially-differentiated. These city renovations changed the

town of Kyoto into castle town and it still can be seen nowadays.

From 1594, Hideyoshi started

building Fushimi Castle and

renovated the surrounding areas and

transforming them as a castle town,

being a traffic center which connected

Kyoto and Osaka.

This new castle town which spread

out 4km from the east to the west and

6km from the north to the south was

designed in a rectangular block

pattern. This pattern was formed

by streets called “Tori” running from

the south to the north, and streets

called “Suji” running from the east to

the west which were filled with

warrior’s residences. This city design is

the origin of the present Fushimi

Ward.

Fig1-9 Kyoto surrounded by Odoi mound Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”

（京都の歴史４ 桃山の開花 ）

Fig1-10 Restoration map of Fushimi Castle town Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 4”

※Old location of Goko-gu Shrine

- 26 -

The trunk roads those days were directly connected to Kyoto after the construction

of Fushimi castle town. Those were the Fushimi Highway which connected Kyoto

and Fushimi, New Yamato Highway (Nara-Fushimi) and Tokaido Highway which

was branched from Ohtsu through Fushimi, passed Yodo, and reached Osaka.

The branch stream or canal was constructed to draw water from Uji River to the

outer moat of Fushimi Castle. This stream flowed south wards, thus, Fushimi was

developed as the port city of Yodo River.

In 1546, a Christian church called “Nanban-Dera” (western temple) was

constructed and the missionary started its activities. Hence, the western culture

(Nanban) became a new way of life.

Nobunaga ODA eagerly accepted the western culture and this attitude was

followed by his successor, Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI. Therefore, western style crafts

spread among commoners.

Sakai was the center of western culture as well as a trade distribution route. It

prospered by taking control of gun production which was craved by warlords. Two

ordinary citizens of Sakai, Jo-oh TAKENO and Rikyu SEN started tea ceremony

there.

Tea utensils like tea kettles and tea jars were objects that the leaders of the country

and the war loads eagerly wished to possess, because these items were considered as

the most valuable treasures. An expert of tea ceremony Riky SEN was entrusted as

the Tea maestro by Nobunaga ODA and was also valued by Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI.

Rikyu SEN was called “the first tea master” and was respected in Kyoto. Hideyoshi

used tea ceremony for political purposes. He exhibited his power to the public by

constructing golden tea houses, holding tea ceremony at imperial palace and

throwing great tea parties at Kitano. These ceremonies were directed and conducted

by Rikyu .

Three Sen clans, which are the descendents of Rikyu-SEN, namely Ura-Senke,

Omote Senke and Mushanokoji- Senke were settled in current Kamigyo-ward,

Kyoto.

Photo1-8 Present Odoi mound

Photo1-7 Tributary of Uji River

- 27 -

(5) Edo Period

At the beginning of Edo Period, The Tycoon Ieyas TOKUGAWA started

constructing Nijo Castle which became the stronghold of Edo Shogunate. Therefore,

Kyoto had two political lodgments, imperial palace and Nijo castle. To show the

power of TOKUGAWA Shogunate, Edo Shogunate made efforts to restore temples

and shrines by renovating the ones damaged during the civil wars.

Traffic and transportation were also highly

developed. Because of its geography, i. e. Kyoto

being an inland city, it mostly depended on land

routes for cargo shipment which was a

disadvantage regarding transportation. Therefore,

the Tokugawa government requested Ryoi

SUMINOKURA to develop waterways to improve

the transportation which caused an hindrance or

obstruction to the development of commerce and

industry. SUMINOKURA dug and reconstructed the Oi River (present

Katsura-river) and made it fit for the transportation of timber between Tamba and

Kyoto.

In 1611, SUMINOKURA dug Takase River along Kamo River and completed a

shipping route connecting directly from Fushimi port.

Henceforth, with Takase River becoming the transportation artery for people and

supplies, the transportation of Kyoto developed to a great extent. Many other routes

were quickly developed in this period. Tokaido Highway, originating from Ohtsu, was

used for delivering rice. “Takeda and Toba Highways” were used to transport

products from Fushimi to Kyoto. Shuzan and Yamaguni Highways were the route

Typical examples of architectures of Azuchi Momoyama Period

Sanpo-in building of Daigoji Temple and

Karamon Gate of Daitokuji Temple are typical

examples of Momoyama Period. These are

characteristic buildings that have remained

intact until today.

Hiunkaku of Honganji Temple which is a

three story building with wooden roof tiles,

Golden Pavilion and Silver Pavilion are

designated as “Three distinguished pavilions”

in Kyoto.

Photo1-9 Hiunkaku, Honganji Temple

Photo1-10 Takase River

(First station and a Takase boat)

写真 1- 高瀬川

- 28 -

from Tamba region to transport firewood and charcoal. Thus, the highways

supported the economy of Kyoto. The opening of Nishi Takase River brought fresh

excitement to the landscape of Kyoto. The Nishijin Textile industry which had

started centuries ago was also continuously developing and by the 1700, there were

500 textile companies and 10000 weaving machines. In addition, the traditional

industries such as dyeing, pottery, lacquer ware, and copper wares were at the

height of prosperity and these industries have been handed down until today.

Fig1-11 Kyoto in late 17th century Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 5”

- 29 -

Cho was the unit which was a kind of

minimum social constitution .

Residents of each cho made their own

original regulations called

“Cho-shikimoku” aimed at protecting

the living environment of the cho and

providing comfort to the residents.

This peace and comfort in the society

resulted into a prosperous growth of

the economy and the enrichment of the

life of the city dwellers. As a result of

this prosperity, the architectural

technology advanced and the

prototype of the present

“Kyo-machiya”–town house was

formed. Kyo-machiya house system

spread throughout Japan along with

the culture of Kyoto and affected the

housing design of other cities.

Although the very origin of

Kyo-machiya could be dated back to

Heian period, the basic prototype of the present system Kyo-machiya was completed

after the middle of Edo period. The advance in technology affected the life of city

dwellers of Kyo-machiya. There was a large guest room in Kyo-machiya facing the

back garden, which was furnished with Tatami mats. Here, people enjoyed making

poems, conducting tea ceremony and flower arrangement, having parties, and

exchanging information. This lifestyle of rich merchants gradually spread out among

the commoners, too.

Kyoto products which were related to the above culture and lifestyle, were highly

prized all over Japan and greatly contributed to the vitalization of Kyoto.

Ordinary citizens who were liberated from the fear of war began to make the

outdoor activities called “Yu-zan, Yu-raku” which they had inherited from the

ancient middle ages, as a way of their ordinary recreation. These recreation scenes

can be seen in the painted folding screens called “Rakuchu Rakugai zu” and other

paintings. These drawings spread out to other cities through which people learned

about seasonal popular spots and established the value of Kyoto and the “Kyoto

style”. This outdoor recreation craze was further promoted in the middle of Edo

Sanjusangen-do Temple

Hokoku mausoleum

Fig1-12 A part of Rakuchu-rakugai-zu folding screen

(Funaki version) (Important Cultural Property)

Owned by Tokyo National Museum.

Image:TNM Image Archives

- 30 -

Period spurred by the travel boom throughout Japan. Thus, tourism related

businesses such as tourist sites, tourist temples, and souvenir shops were created.

These businesses were widely advertised by various kinds of publishing media.

In the chaos at the end of Edo Period, great many places suffered from wars. The

central Kyoto got to be grueling battlefield and most of the present Nakagyo,

Shimogyo areas were burned out by the Hamaguri Gate War. It was called

“Don-Don-Yake” (means Burned down land). Fushimi, Shimotoba and Yodo also

were involved in huge wars as a result of which Fushimi was destroyed and burned.

Imperial palace Yamashina area

Fig1-13 Miyako meisho zue, or pictures of scenic sites in Kyoto

Owned by International Reserch Center for Japanese Studies

Typical examples of architectures of Edo period.

It is needless to say that Nijo Castle (national treasure, important cultural

property) is the typical example of Edo Period. The Main hall of Kiyomizu temple

(national treasure), the main hall of Chionin Temple, the five storied pagoda of

Kyo-oh Gokokuji Temple were burned out in this period and were reconstructed

later. Sumiya house (important cultural property) has been built in Shimabara,

one of the entertainment quarters in mid-to late stages of Edo Period. By the end

of Edo Period, Urasenke residence (important cultural property) was built.

Photo1-12 Main Hall of Kiyomizu

Temple

Photo1-11 Nijo Castle Provided by Nijo Castle Office

Photo1-13 Five story pagoda of

Kyo-oh-gokokuji Temple

- 31 -

(6) Meiji Era

By shifting the capital to Tokyo in Meiji Era, Kyoto lost its function as the capital

city of Japan and was deserted. To contain this critical situation, aggressive political

measures and projects for modernization were executed.

Fig1-14 Kyoto in late Edo Period Source:”Kyoto no Rekishi 7”

- 32 -

Kunimichi KITAGAKI, the third governor of Kyoto prefecture went ahead with

Lake Biwa Canal Project. It started in 1890 and in the next year, the first

hydroelectric power generator for public use in Japan was built and electricity was

supplied to the city of Kyoto. Lake Biwa Canal contributed greatly to the

modernization of Kyoto.

On the other hand, a new canal -

Kamogawa Canal-, running parallel to

Kamogawa was constructed. The

Completion of this new canal had no

effect on Takase River water

transportation at all. This canal was

used for transporting coal, timber and

stone for construction from San-in and

Hokuriku region while Takasegawa was

used for the transportation of daily

products such as firewood charcoal and fertilizer.

In 1895, the first street car in Japan using electricity emerged. In 1898, Jinzaburo

NAIKI assumed the post of the first mayor of Kyoto city. He carried out three major

projects – the construction of waterworks, the expansion of roads, and the

construction of second canal. Thus, the city infrastructure was developed, and Kyoto

became a modern city.

During the Japan-Russia War, the 16th military division was stationed in

Fukakusa. Dormitory for soldiers and arms depots were built. A road for Military use

only, called Shidan, was constructed which was connecting Kyoto Station to the

division.

Besides, Cho-gumi; local communityy system which was handed down from

Muromachi period was revised by Kyoto prefecture. Kamigyo and Shimogyo were

each divided into 33 units. Each unit which was called Bangumi community decided

to construct and run an elementary school, thus 64 elementary schools were

established in 1869. These school buildings had two functions, housing schools and

halls for community meetings. Therefore, these schools were called “Bangumi

schools”.

In 1867 the new government started the recovery of public property by confiscating

lands owned by Tokugawa Shogunate. In 1869 the lands owned by other feudal lords

were also confiscated. Two years later, lands owned by temples and shrines, except

for the confines of the sacred sites, were also confiscated. This order greatly affected

the big temples and shrines that possessed a large area of land around Kyoto and

Photo1-14 Present Keage Electric Power Plant

(Not open to public)

- 33 -

devastated their economic base.

Some of the recovered lands were used for the construction of facilities and

infrastructure necessary for the modernization of Kyoto. Typical examples are

schools. Shudo elementary school built within the boundary of Myoho-in Temple was

a good example. A part of concentrated temple area in central Kyoto was converted

to an amusement center which is the present Shin-Kyogoku area.

Furthermore, the mountains and forests that belonged to feudal lords, shrines and

temples were also recovered and became the property of the national government.

Kyoto prefecture appointed “Kan-rin-gakari” or forest caretakers to control

forestation and maintenance. The ordinance to prohibit cutting young pine trees

was promulgate in 1871 and in the following year logging permission system was

enacted.

Moreover, after 1877, measures to protect and expand forests such as encouraging

planting trees, prohibiting unplanned cutting of trees and regulating fire, were

taken. The reason for the above measures was the shortage of wood for construction

purposes due to the damage of mountain forests caused by the turmoil of Meiji

Restoration and the following inflation.

Heian Shrine was built in 1895 and the ceremony for the 1100th anniversary of

relocation of the capital to Heiankyo was held gorgeously. Heian Shrine decided to

enshrine Emperor Kanmu there. Jidai Festival, which is a parade displaying the

history of Kyoto from Heian Period to Meiji Restoration started at this point.

Fig1-15 Reorganization of Chogumi in Kyoto

Owned by Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives

- 34 -

Sanjo street was a west-end of

Tokaido Highway and located

close to Takse River port where a

lot of hotels, money exchange

businesses and postal services

were concentrated. It became one

of the busiest streets of Kyoto.

After the Meiji Era post offices

and other businesses such as

transportation, publishing, banks

and insurance companies were established, which boosted the importance of the

street.

The first western style two story buildings were the Shushoin Library, the Saikyo

Post office, and the telegraph branch office built on Sanjo Street creating a new

landscape. These were followed by the construction of brick buildings such as the

Central Post Office (cultural property registered by the city), Daiichi Bank Kyoto

office, and the Kyoto branch of Japan Bank (important cultural property).

In late Meiji Era, Kyoto was developing and modernization did not remain

restricted to Sanjo street. Post offices, banks, factories, universities and retailers

were built of stone and bricks in western style. Kyoto Imperial Museum, at present

Kyoto National Museum (Important cultural property) was built in

Higashiyama-Shichijo. Modern and Japanese style buildings such as the Nijo

railway station (cultural property designated by the city) now relocated in Umekoji

Steam Locomotive Museum) were constructed.

Representative architectures in Meiji Era

Photo1-15 Heian Shrine immediately after being constructed

Source:”Heian Jingu Hyakunenshi(Heian Jingu)” Owned by

Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives

Photo1-16 Old Kyoto Branch Office of Bank of Japan

(Present Museum of Kyoto)

Provided by the Museum of Kyoto

Photo1-17 Old JR Nijo Station

- 35 -

(7) Taisho to early Showa Eras

In 1918, Kyoto city

incorporated 16 towns

and villages in the

suburbs so its land area

doubled. Along with the

development of road and

street car, new housing

sites were created.

Ishibe-koji quarter is one

of the excellent scenic

beauties of housing

development of the

beginning of Taisho era

which is still preserved.

The alleys with stone

walls and stone

pavements are one of the

outstanding and unique

masterpieces of that era

which form a valuable

historical scenic beauty.

In 1922, the city planning area was decided and land reforming projects around

historic urban area was approved in 1926. Designating scenic landscape district and

building the first sewage system was approved in 1930. In 1931 the approval of the

city planning brought about the big Kyoto city by incorporating one city, three towns

and 23 villages including Fushimi city.

Because of the incorporation of the surrounding villages and towns in the previous

years, in 1932 the population of Kyoto city reached one million. In 1932 the city area

expanded to 4.8 times larger than before. In the industrial field, mechanical,

electrical and chemical industries were highly advance at the outbreak of World War

I. Merger and takeover of banks and electronic industries caused concentration of

enterprises in the city. Regarding the traditional industries, modernization had been

achieved by emphasizing the introduction of machinery in manufacturing; and the

improvement of technique, quality and design.

The merger of the surrounding towns and villages into Kyoto and the construction

of new factories increased labor population in the city. Since the need for proper

Fig1-16 Map of Urban area of Greater Kyoto in 1931

Owned by Kyoto Prefectural Library and Archives

- 36 -

distribution of commodities for daily use was felt, a public market was opened in

1918. In 1927, the first-ever wholesale market in Japan was established in Kyoto.

While the city development projects progressed, concern was raised about the

destruction and damage of scenic beauties and cultural heritages. From the early

days of Meiji Era, forests were regarded very vital for the scenic beauty. Cutting

wood and timbering was banned in some forests. Since these forests were kept

untouched, their plant fauna changed rapidly. In Showa Era, change in the outlook

of Higashiyama mountain range appeared. Because of decrease in red pine and

increase of pasania dominant forests, the color of the mountain changed from light

green to dark and deep green. Experts discussed on this change and suggested the

need for managing the landscape.

The regional forest office which manages the national forests in Kyoto changed the

previous policy of banning cutting trees and issued a new order to resume timbering.

The Higashiyama national forest landscape plan in 1936 proposed to grow trees on

the mountains in order to prevent disasters, to create comfortable walking

atmosphere and to create beautiful view seen from city. It also paid special

attention to the management of forests behind temples and shrines.

Meanwhile, to preserve cultural assets, beginning with laying down the law to

protect old objects in 1871, through law to protect old temples and shrines 1897, the

law to protect national treasures was laid down in 1929 and numbers of temples

were preserved and repaired by this law.

(8) After the war

The scenic beauty of Kyoto which was created in Meiji Period remained intact

because it sustained little damage during World War II. However, the historical

scenic beauty and natural scenery deteriorated rapidly because of the changes in

social structure and fast development after the war. The development was especially

accelerated during the high growth period in 1960’s. By the construction of Meishin

highway in 1963 and New Tokaido Shinkansen line on 1964, the number of tourists

and visitors to Kyoto drastically increased. In the course of motorization, a large

housing complex was planned in the suburb in 1969. A large town called Rakusai

New Town in Oe-Ohara area was born accommodating some ten thousand people.

To counter these drastic changes in the city, the Ancient Capital Cities Preservation

Law was promulgated in 1966 putting restrictions on building construction and land

development.

Moreover, since the enactment of the Act on Protection of Cultural Properties in

1950, increasing attention was drawn towards preserving cultural properties. Thus,

- 37 -

not just temples and shrines but various objects and aspects of life of Kyoto such as

historical townscape, festivals, way of living and languages were designated as

cultural assets of Kyoto.

The post-war years for Kyoto were a period for the spread of culture,

democratization, and internationalization. Improvement of cultural facilities was

desired more than everything.

New constructions started appearing, beginning with Kyoto Kaikan concert hall in

1960, followed by National Museum of Modern Art and Kyoto Prefectural Library

and Archives in 1963. Kyoto International Conference Hall was built in Takaragaike

Park in 1966. In late Showa Period, various cultural facilities such as Kyoto City

Gymnasium, Kyoto Prefecture Laborer’s Hall, Kyoto Municipal Science Center for

Youth, Kyoto Prefectural Center for Arts and Culture, Kyoto Prefectural

Gymnasium, Kyoto International Community House, Museum of Kyoto and Kyoto

City Library of Historical Documents were built and inaugurated.

Typical examples of architectures of Taisho to Showa Period.

Kyoto Central Telephone Office Nishijin Branch, Kyoto Art Center (former Kyoto

Municipal Meirin Elementary School) (tangible cultural property, registered by the

national government) and Kyoto Kaikan concert hall were the representative examples of

building structures of this period.

Photo1-18 Kyoto Art Center

Former Kyoto Municipal Meirin

Elementary School

Photo1-19 Kyoto Kaikan Hall

- 38 -

4 Traditional Culture in Kyoto

Kyoto is a city possessing a multilayered compound culture. This culture has been

handed down to the citizens in the course of its 1200 years who have preserved the

originality and ingenuity while creating new cultures. The outstanding culture that

Kyoto has inherited today is because of the fact that it was the capital of Japan for a

long time. In Edo Period, many men of letters and artisans would gather in Kyoto and

created various cultural works and arts and spread them across Japan. Even after the

Meiji Restoration, Kyoto culture continued to exist vividly and develop simultaneously

with the modern industries and universities. Kyoto has been the centre of Japanese

culture in every aspect. Consequently, this culture and art was widely accepted and

they deeply penetrated into the daily life of Kyoto citizens and influenced their life.

Industries were also influenced by the spirit of arts and cultures such as tea ceremony,

flower arrangements and Noh play leading to the support and patronage of these arts

and cultures by such industries. Food culture and other traditional ceremonies and

events also maintained their traditional customs. Some of these traditional industries

and artistic cultures continued developing while undergoing slight changes.

(1) Culture, Arts

A Traditional cultures

(A)Tea ceremony

Tea drinking habit is said to have started in 729. It originated when Emperor

Shomu gave Chinese Dancha tea to 100 monks as a medicine. The beginning of

tea plantation in Kyoto dates back to 1185, when Priest Yosai brought tea trees

from China and started growing them. Henceforward, tea has been grown in

many parts of Japan and the habit of drinking tea spread among aristocrats.

Charei , the original form of tea ceremony, started in Kamakura Period. In 1224,

Dogen, a Zen sect priest, inaugurated Eiheiji Temple and created a new method

for conducting tea ceremony. In Nanbokucho Era, a priest Soseki MUSO

established Tenryuji Temple in Kyoto and Shoguns of Ashikaga clan became

believers of the temple. Thus, tea ceremony was practiced outside the Zen

temples.

In Muromachi Period, priest Juko Murata created a new method of conducting

tea ceremony in a four and half mat room of Dogudo in Jishoji Temple. He

separated his method from the Zen sect and established a new school of tea

ceremony which forms the base of the current schools of tea ceremony.

Later, tea ceremony was inherited by Jo-oh TAKENO. Rikyu SEN, one of his

students completed the procedures of tea ceremony and it became popular among

- 39 -

feudal warlords. After Rikyu’s death, his son Shoan revived tea ceremony and his

three grandsons established the base of three tea ceremony schools, namely

Mushakoji Senke, Omote Senke and Ura Senke.

In Edo Period, Enshu KOBORI was appointed as the tea master for Tokugawa

Shogunate. Henceforth, tea ceremony became popular among local feudal lords

who also appointed other tea masters. Thus tea ceremony deeply penetrated

into warrior class, which caused a competition among different schools in sending

their tea masters in response to the requests of warriors. In the following years,

tea ceremony began to spread even among merchants to such extent that

learning it became a must for this class. In addition to the Three Sen Schools and

Yabunouchi School, other names were added to the list. Some of those schools,

such as Hisada, Horinouchi andHayami, whose names are found in a document

revised in late Edo Period, are still practiced today. This fact proves that tea

ceremony gained popularity among a large number of merchants.

In Meiji Era, tea ceremony was regarded as an important accomplishment for

women. Today women in beautiful kimono are often seen at the ceremonies.

(B) The art of flower arrangement

In Heian Period, along with the spread of Jodo sect of Buddhism, offering flower

to the statue of Buddha became a common practice. Meanwhile, Hana-awase or

competition in coordinating the beauty of flowers became popular among

aristocrats as a pleasure. In the middle of Muromachi Period, Shoin house style

was developed and alcoves and shelves in such houses were decorated with

flowers. Thus, flower arrangement became a popular practice in the daily life of

people.

This is how flower arrangement originated. Along with the development of the

art of flower arrangement, a reference book called “Kadensho”, describing the

techniques and the philosophy of flower arrangement was written. Sen-kei

IKENOBO, a chief priest of Rokkakudo or Chohoji Temple developed a new style

flower arrangement known as standing style which was used during Buddhist

rituals. Later on, flower arrangement became a family business of the Ikenobo

family.

While building alcoves (Tokonoma) in the houses became a common practice

among ordinary citizens, subsequently, flower arrangement also spread among

them. In the middle of Edo Period, Seika style of flower arrangement became

popular for decorating alcoves and soon a widespread practice. From the middle

of Edo Period onwards, the art of flower arrangement was being regarded as an

- 40 -

indispensable part of daily life. In Meiji Era, flower arrangement which had been

practiced mostly by men became a part of the curriculum of women’s schools and

later became a status of accomplishment for women.

(C) Literature

The Hiragana and Katakana characters were developed in Heian Period. Before

that, texts were being written by Chinese characters only. Heian Period was the

time when many literate women appeared which was quite rear in the world.

Essays, diaries and novels which are still read today such as Tale of Genji by

Lady Murasaki, the essay Pillow Book by Sei Shonagon were written at that time.

Considered as one of the important accomplishments of court nobles, Waka or old

Japanese style poems appeared which contributed greatly to the excellence of

literary works. By the imperial command, the first-Japanese anthology

“Kokin-waka-shu” was compiled and everyone in the imperial court enjoyed

Waka. “Diary of Lady Izumi” or “Tale of Genji” and other works contained many

Waka, which enriched the emotional expression and made them classy and

delicate. In Kamakura Period when warriors seized power, military epics

depicting wars, heroes and military commanders appeared. In contrast to the

literary works in Heian Period, these works had strong style of expression.

The tale of the Heike which is the story of the rise of the Heike clan to glory and

their eventual collapse was recited accompanied by Biwa, a musical instrument

and was widely enjoyed by many people including illiterates. Also essays

“Tsurezuregusa” by Kenko YOSHIDA and “Hojo-ki” by Chomei Kamo were the

masterpieces of Kamakura Period.

B Traditional performing arts

(A) Gagaku or court music

The composite art consisting of song, dance and Japanese traditional orchestra

which includes wind and string instruments and drums is called Gagaku (court

music). Gagaku originated from Chinese and Korean music and “Kagura”, simple

ancient Japanese songs and dances. In Heian period when the Gagaku was

introduced into the society of court nobles, a numbers of original Japanese style

Gagaku were created and performed not just at imperial court but also often at

shrines and temples.

(B) Noh play

600 years ago, Kan-ami and his son Zeami came to Kyoto from Nara. They

- 41 -

completed Utai singing and Kabu theatre that featured dancing. Classical

literatures such as Tale of Heike and Tale of Genji were performed at the Noh

theatres by actors wearing Noh masks and colourful costumes. There are five

Noh schools, Kanze, Hosho, Konparu, Kongo and Kita. Of these schools, Kongo

with it’s headquarter located in Kyoto and Kanze are popular.

The Origin of Kongo School dates back to Kamakura Period. In Muromachi

Period, the school was one of the four Yamato Sarugaku-za dance companies

dedicated to Kasuga Shrine, called Orito-za and later Kongo-za. In later years,

Orito-Kongo family had no successors and were abolished. A cadet family

succeeded the school and revived it in Kyoto.

In 2003, old Kongo Noh Theatre was replaced by a new one with the support of

the cultural figures and the citizens. The oldest Noh stage, called Kita Noh stage

in Nishi Honganji Temple is designated as a national treasure.

(C) Kyogen comic play

Kyogen was developed as a comical play with ironical dialogues. It was usually

played between Noh plays, however, today Kyogen is often played independently.

There were three schools of Kyogen, namely Ohkura, Izumi and Sagi which

were based on inheritance master system (Iemoto) in Edo Period. Of the three

schools, only Okura and Izumi have survived. It is known that there used to be

Nanbu-Negi school, mainly played by priests of Shinto shrines in Muromachi and

Edo Periods.

A document reveals that this school was popular in Muromachi Period. However,

its popularity dropped in Edo Period and was merged with other schools. It is

said that there were several other small schools which also disappeared gradually.

There is a famous Shigeyama family of Okura School in Kyoto. Okura is the only

school which inherited Yamato Sarugaku sect.

In 2001, Noh play and Kyogen were proclaimed as “Masterpiece of unwritten

and intangible properties for humanity”. In November 2008, they were integrated

into the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Properties for Humanity by

the Treaty for the Protection of Intangible Cultural Property.

(D) Kabuki Theatre

Origin of Kabuki theatre dates back to 400 years ago when Izumo-no Okuni

performed Kabuki dance in the precinct of Kitano Shrine. Fashionable

costumes and wild dancing attracted people in Kyoto. After Okuni left, many

people emulated her dance and Yujo (courtesan) Kabuki and Wakashu (youth)

- 42 -

Kabuki were performed.

In 1629, Yujo Kabuki was prohibited because it was considered to corrupt public

morals. Wakashu Kabuki was also banned because some companies practiced

prostitution in addition to their original business. Thus, only men’s Kabuki

survived to the present.

While Noh play was supported by warrior class, Kabuki developed as a popular

means of entertainment for commoners in Edo Period. In 2005, Kabuki was

proclaimed as “Masterpiece of Unwritten and Intangible Properties for

Humanity”.

Minami-za Theatre located at the east end of Shijo Bridge has been

reconstructed many times. However its location has not been changed since Edo

Period and is regarded as the oldest theatre in Japan. Kaomise performance in

December attracts many audiences even today.

C Food culture

(A) Kyoto cuisine

The quality of Kyoto cuisines (Kyo-ryori) can be described as a combination of

relishing seasonal tastes and appreciating the beauty of the arrangement of food

together with the utensils. In Kyoto cuisines, seasonal ingredients are used to

offer seasonal feelings and taste which would be in harmony with the beauty of

Kyo-shiki lacquer ware and other utensils of refined Kyoto pottery.

Kyoto cuisines originated from the parties of noble class of Heian period.

Meanwhile, a vegetarian cuisine was developed from the diet of Zen priests who

had come from China in Kamakura Period. Later on, formal ceremonial dinner

style was developed in Muromachi Period.

In Edo Period, new course dishes were created which were influenced by

western cuisine. Their styles were completed along with the development of tea

ceremony. In late Edo Period, teahouses serving meals also appeared and became

popular. Catering service became common, too. In 1800s, the popularity of Kyoto

pottery reached its peak and various utensils were made.

In late Edo Period, restaurants located along Takase River served raw and

cooked river fish dishes while restaurants in front of temples and shrines served

tofu and vegetable dishes. Fast foods were served along trunk roads. Kyoto

specialties such as Imobo (taro and cod), herring soba noodle, mackerel sushi and

common Japanese conger dishes indicate that being far from the sea, fresh sea

food could not be supplied so it was replaced by dry fish, salted first-hand river

fish.

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The example of wisdoms and creativeness may be seen in the dish of

“Hamo”(common Japanese conger). Since many small bones in Hamo made it

difficult to cook, the fish did not attract any other area except Kyoto. However,

Hamo was strong enough to transport for a long way from the fishery port to

Kyoto. The technique of “Hone Kiri” (cutting small bones into hundreds of tiny

pieces) was developed and elegant and accomplished Hamo cuisine was created.

Under the miserable situation for seafood supply, Hamo became a representative

of summer cuisine of Kyoto by the wisdom and ingenuity of culinarians.

(B) Kyo-yasai or Kyoto Vegetables

In Heian Period, the population of Kyoto reached tens of thousands and it

became largest city in Japan. However, it was truly difficult to transport fresh sea

foods because Kyoto was located far from sea and in a basin surrounded by

mountains on three sides. Therefore, it was necessary to grow vegetables at a

large scale to meet the needs of food for the residents of Kyoto. To this end,

various vegetables were brought from other parts of Japan and from China to

offer them to imperial court. The seeds of vegetables were sent to be grown in

Kyoto. These vegetables formed the roots of Kyo-Yasai or Kyoto vegetable in the

suitable land of Kyoto. Kyoto basin is an alluvial fan formed with rich soil deposit

that was washed down from the mountains. Human excrements were carried

from urban area to the suburban agricultural lands of Kyoto to use as fertilizer

that made the soil suitable for growing vegetable. In addition, it is said that

Kyoto’s climate of basin-type character is suitable for growing vegetable. This is

why Kyoto was continued growing vegetables for a long period.

(C) Sake

At the beginning of Heian Period, there was a government office called

Miki-no-Tsukasa which exclusively managed Sake brewery. In Kamakura Period,

Kyoto became mass Sake producing city. In Muromachi Period, there were 347

Sake breweries in and around Kyoto. Because of its desirable and abundant

underground water, Fushimi area in Kyoto has become a high quality Sake

producing area. Another factor that enhanced sake production in Fushimi is the

fact that Hideyoshi TOYOTOMI constructed Fushimi castle here.

At the beginning of Edo Period, Takase River (canal) was constructed which

contributed greatly to the prosperity of Fushimi as a port town and post town.

Sake brewing business prospered around this time and many new producers

emerged. With the advent of Meiji Era, railroad started operating which

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facilitated the transportation of sake to other parts of Japan. Soon sake reached

many people in Japan, known as “Fushimi’s refined Sake”.

(D) Pickles

Although it is said that pickles have been eaten since Nara period, the name

“Tsukemono” (pickles) is first seen in a book written in 10th century. Since in the

past vegetables were not grown in winter, people started preserving vegetables in

the form of pickles to compensate lack of vegetables. In Muromachi period when

conducting tea ceremony emanated, pickles were used to adjust the temperature

of hot water for tea. They were also eaten during “Monko” (occasion to enjoy and

detect the smell of incense) ceremonies to relax the sense of smell and taste. The

name “Konomono” (the products with rich flavour) was created in this period.

Some of the typical pickles of Kyoto are Siba-zuke, Senmaizuke and Suguki.

These pickles are produced only in Kyoto because it is the unique climate, soil

and quality water that can produce Kyo-Yasai. Popular Nukazuke (bran) pickle is

called Dobozuke in Kyoto which is prepared at individual homes in Kyoto.

(2) Traditional Industry

Traditional industry of Kyoto has its technical roots in manufacturing items for

imperial court. These items were used for ceremonies to show the emperor’s

authority. They are seen in many picture scrolls and were developed along with the

imperial culture.

Thereafter, although Kyoto often suffered from wars including Ohnin War, and

natural disasters, fires, the city rose again and revived like a phoenix.

Kyoto prospered as the biggest manufacturing city during Edo Period as seen in

Rakuchu Rakugai-zu folding screens, anthology named Kehukigusa, and Kyoto

guidebook named Kyo-Habutae. Techniques and sensibility of the traditional

industry cultivated during the long history of Kyoto have been handed down to the

Photo1-20 Food culture of Kyoto

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present by the efforts and ingenuity of predecessors in spite of the drastic changes

and hardship after the 19th century such as Meiji Restoration and the World War II.

The traditional industries of Kyoto have been developed and played a leading role

during the 1200 years of Kyoto’s history. That’s why Kyoto has been called “the city

of traditional industries”. Although, traditional industries are seen in many other

cities, the one of Kyoto is characterized by its wide variety of products which are still

produced today while other cities produce only single items with less variation.

Moreover, Kyoto products are being supplied not just to its residents, but also to the

people of whole Japan. Kyoto is the only city with such vast variation of traditional

industries in the world.

Another distinctive characteristic of Kyoto’s traditional industries is the friendly

competition among them – showing a strong bond between them. Examples are the

Nishijin textiles used for the costume of Kyoto dolls, Kyoto stone and bamboo crafts

for landscape gardening, Kyoto paper mount producers and house furnishing

materials. The designs and patterns were shared by both textile industry and pottery.

Interestingly, Yuzen dyeing was created by Yuzensai MIYAZAKI who was a

Japanese fan designer. The traditional industries of Kyoto have been influencing

each other leading to the production of high quality goods.

Photo1-23 Kyoyaki・Kiyomizu pottery Photo1-24 Kyoto lacquer ware

Photo1-21 Nishijin brocade Photo1-22 Kyoto dolls

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The articles that are designed and produced by the traditional industry of Kyoto

are called “Kyo-mono” (Kyoto goods). Although relatively expensive, they are

regarded as extremely superb rank that no other city could achieve such degree of

refinement. This is because they are produced by highly organized and precise

labour division and advanced techniques acquired in the long path of history of

Kyoto since Heian-kyo.

The main patrons of traditional industrial products are Japanese cultural field.

Refined products made by sophisticated technique and good sense are born because

of the needs and demand of religion and traditional arts such as tea ceremony, flower

arrangement and Noh.

The prominent traditional cultural figures and experts, not just supported the

market of traditional industries, but also served as authorities to evaluate the

products with excellent sense of judgment and the ability to distinguish high quality

which resulted in the advancement of technique and the development of sense of

beauty.

After the Meiji Restoration, due to the westernization of life style and the

introduction of machinery to the industry, the environment surrounding traditional

industries changed to great extent. However the fact that the headquarters of

temples and shrines and the base of masters of tea ceremonies and flower

arrangement were located in Kyoto, played an important role in preserving and

retaining of Japanese values (JAPANISM).

(3) Traditional events

Since old days, Kyoto as the capital, has been not only the city where products and

information accumulated, but also a place blessed with natural environment which

has been entitled as the city with “Purple Mountains and Clear Water”. Such

favourable conditions in Kyoto contributed to the development of sense of beauty,

literature, traditional plays, cultural activities including tea ceremony and flower

arrangements; and industries. These cultures and industries are displayed in

Photo1-25 Kyo-Yuzen dyeing hoto1-26 Kyo- Sensu or folding fan

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Kyoto’s three big festivals namely Gion, Aoi and Jidai, and other traditional events

such as Buddhist Kyogen plays; and in the style of garments, utensils and theatres .

Besides the religious festivals held at temples and shrines, there are many other

events held by communities and special societies. Jizo-bon festival is one of them. It

is a traditional community event closely related to the livelihood of local residents.

This festival has been handed down to the present generation as an event indicating

the end of summer.

Other seasonal events including Yasurai Festival, Daimonji (Bonfire at five

mountains), and Fire Festival at Kurama are held all year round. These events

remind us of seasonal change.

(4) Attraction spots in Kyoto

Kyoto served as the central stage of Japanese history for l200 years, which is an

exceptionally long in the world history. This is why one can find numerous historical

heritages and cultures in different corners of the city. These cultural and historical

assets have attracted several people such as Bakin TAKIZAWA, Kanko SHIBA in

Edo Period and numbers of other tourists. Waves of visitors enjoyed various

historical sites and pots, or enjoyed the air of four seasons at shrines and temples. A

guide book entitled “Miyako Meisho-zue” published in Edo period became the best

seller of the time. Thus, Kyoto developed as a city representing industry, tourism and

culture in Japan.

After Meiji Era, Kyoto was reconstructed as a modern tourist city by implementing

comprehensive policies including industrialization and urbanization policy called

“Kyoto Policy” while sustaining the tradition.

In 1947, Kyoto city resumed its tourism section after a pause during the World War

II. The “Law of Establishing International Culture and Tourism City, Kyoto” was

enforced in 1950. Kyoto Tourism Association was established in 1961. As the

Photo1-27 Bonfire on five mountains

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representative city of international culture and tourism, Kyoto leads Japanese

tourism by conducting a number of frontier projects such as “Winter Travel in

Kyoto”.

In 2000, Kyoto resolved to place tourism as one of her top priority measures in the

strategic city management plan and determined to attract 50 million tourists a year.

Some of the various measures to attract people to Kyoto included creating and

rediscovering new tourist resources appropriate to Kyoto, distributing detailed

information and improving the environment to receive tourists from home and

abroad. As a result, the number of tourists in Kyoto in 2008 reached more than

50,210,0000. This achievement was reached two years earlier than originally

expected.

Some of the most popular spots visited in Kyoto are Kiyomizu Temple, Arashiyama,

Kinkakuji Temple, Ginkakuji Temple and Nanzenji Temple. However, recently the

style of tourism changed from merely visiting a historical site to participating in and

experiencing cultural events. Firsthand experience of the culture and history of

Kyoto, such as Nishijin textile weaving, Kyo-yuzen dyeing, dyeing by plant dyes,

making Kyo-yaki pottery and Kiyomizu pottery, practicing tea ceremony and flower

arrangement, appreciating Noh, Kyogen and Kabuki plays; and making Kyoto

confectionary are popular events among tourists. These activities would give them

the opportunity of learning and tasting Kyoto.

Fig1-17 Map of Urban area of Greater Kyoto in 1931

Source: Annual Report on Tourism in Kyoto, 2008

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The most favourable seasons in Kyoto for

tourist are cherry blossom period from mid-

March to April, Golden Week from the end

of April to the first week of May; and

foliage colouring period from October to

November. So, the peak season of tourists

fall in spring and autumn. To attract

tourists in winter season, a project called

“Kyoto Hanatoro or flower lanterns” was

launched in March 2003. This is aimed at creating an elegant seasonal evening

tradition by lighting up historical cultural properties and townscapes with rows of

paper lanterns.

Analyzing the pattern of tourists visiting Kyoto, we can say that typical visitors to

Kyoto are middle aged women and repeaters. The ratio of day trip and overnight trip

is 3 to 1. The fact that 60% of the repeaters have visited Kyoto 10 times and above,

proves that Kyoto tourism ranks among the highest quality class.

Meanwhile, the number of tourists from abroad has been increasing. The number

of those tourists from abroad who stay overnight in Kyoto has reached about 940,000,

more than double of the number five years ago. On the country basis, tourists from

the United States are the largest in number followed by Taiwan, Australia, France

and China. As the centre of traditional Japanese culture, Kyoto is one of the most

attractive and aspired cities by for world tourists and is expected to play a leading

role in Japanese tourism.

(5) Distribution of cultural properties

A Outline of important cultural architectural properties in Kyoto

(Table 1) ( as of February 2010)

In Kyoto, there are 201 items designated as important cultural properties by the

national government, 40 of which have been designated as national treasures. Out

of these, 171 or 85% are temple and shrine buildings. Typical Japanese

architectures of each period from Heian to Edo can be seen in Kyoto. Since many of

these buildings were located in the outskirts of the old downtown (especially,

temples and shrines designated by the national government are concentrated in

Higashiyama area.), many of them survived conflagrations of Tenmei and Ganji

ages.

Photo1-28 Kyoto Flower Lanterns

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Fig1-18 Distribution of cultural properties designated by the national government

- 51 -

Meanwhile, there were typical architectures of late Middle Ages including Nijo

Castle and Honganji Temple and of Modern Ages including seven western

buildings and two high quality Japanese buildings in the urban area which are

designated by the national government as important cultural asset. Out of the 48

monuments, three are designated as special historic spots.

Out of 35 scenic beauty spots, nine are designated as special places of scenic

beauty and six as natural treasures. Places of scenic beauty include many gardens

representing Japan. Also there are six important intangible folklore properties.

Among them is Gion Festival, a typical Kyoto festival. The festival and its 29

Yamaboko floats are designated as important intangible cultural property. Thus,

comprehensive protection measures regarding the festival have been taken.

In 1976, San-nei-zaka slope area and Gion Shinbashi area were selected as

“Important Preservation District of the Groups of Historical Buildings”. Later,

Saga Toriimoto area and Kamigamo area are also included. So in total there are

four such areas in Kyoto.

B Outline of other cultural properties (table 2) (as of February 2010)

In 1981, both Kyoto prefecture and Kyoto city each enacted their own laws for

the protection of cultural properties. Based on these laws, they have designated

and registered those historical properties of cultural value which were not

designated by the national government as “Important cultural and historical

assets” so as to protect them.

Based on the prefectural ordinance, there are 42 designated tangible cultural

properties, six registered cultural properties, three designated historical sites, one

designated place of scenic beauty, six designated natural monuments, one

designated area for preserving cultural environment, one intangible folklore

property and two registered cultural properties in the city.

Based on the city ordinance, there are 68 designated tangible cultural properties

(architectures), 24 registered cultural properties(architectures), 14 designated

historical sites, 12 registered historical sites, 27 designated place of scenic beauty,

three registered cultural properties( places of scenic beauty), 25 designated

natural monuments, 10 registered cultural properties including animals, plants

and ores, eight designated tangible folklore properties, three registered

intangible folklore properties, nine areas for preserving cultural environment, and

30 intangible folklore properties in the city.

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Fig1-19 Distribution of cultural properties designated by Kyoto Prefecture and Kyoto City

- 53 -

In addition, based on the cultural property registration system in 1996 by the

national government, 263 registered tangible cultural properties (architectures)

are located in Kyoto city. There are many more historical monuments of cultural

value besides the above mentioned ones. Investigations are carried out to

implement measures for the protection of properties of Modern Ages, modern

Japanese architectures, and town houses (Kyo machiya).

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Fig1-20 Distribution of cultural properties registered by Kyoto City