WWDPetalPusher

PAKISTAN FIRE IMPACT

Fashion’s Safety Rules

Attract Global Focus

SEE PAGE 7

Fergie’s New Face

SEE PAGE 8

By BELISA SILVA

ALL SHE’S MISSING is the baby carriage — but per-haps not for much longer.

At least judging from the frenetic pace that Fergie tosses off business ideas. With her hands in a slew of initiatives — including sports, spirits, scent, shoes and now color cosmetics — the extroverted pop star has set her sights on “starting a family in the near future. It’s something we [she and Josh Duhamel, her husband of almost four years] are interested in doing,” she said.

Currently on break from touring, Fergie, who is working mostly from home managing her growing and multifaceted portfolio, said she simply cannot stop her “creative juices from flowing.”

“My creative energy has to go somewhere,” said the pop star, who will introduce her first color collection for Wet ‘n’ Wild in February. “I get up early and get so many things done during the day on my computer.”

Fergie, 37, whose real name is Stacy Ferguson, was appointed Wet ‘n’ Wild’s first global brand ambassador in March. Her debut color range, called Fergie by Wet ‘n’ Wild, is designed to offer consumers a lineup prod-ucts that allude to the songstress’ “Fergalicious” life. “It was important to me that my line is affordable to my fans but I wanted to give it a luxury spin,” Fergie said of her range, which is priced between $3.49 and $5.99. “It’s that extra little limited-edition feel of fashion.”

After releasing two best-selling fragrances with Avon, Outspoken and Outspoken Intense, Fergie said, “It was time to transition to color.”

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2012 $3.00 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

Tough and poetic. The quest to fuel the two was Miuccia Prada’s mission for spring. She did so in a powerful collection that cast flowers in an austere context. Among the show’s key looks were several in fur, including this beauty over a bra and briefs.

SPRING 2013COLLECTIONS

MILAN

MILANCOLLECTIONS

MAX MARA, EMPORIO ARMANI, BLUGIRL AND MORE.

PAGES 4 TO 6

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Safety standards in the global ap-parel industry are under the microscope once again.

In the wake of the tragic fire in the Asian nation that killed nearly 300 workers at a garment factory and intensified scrutiny over nonprofit monitoring and factory certification groups, one U.S.-based cer-tification group plans to roll out a fire safety training program in Pakistan.

The fire ripped through Ali Enterprises Inc., a jeans manufacturer based in Karachi, Pakistan, last week, leaving 289 garment workers dead. The inci-dent sent shock waves throughout the entire global apparel industry and raised questions about the safe-ty of garment workers stitching clothing for European and U.S. brands in Pakistan and around the world. It also led to the resignation of the Sindh Minister for Industry, the arrest of the factory owners for attempt-ed murder and brought more attention to the moni-toring and certification companies used by hundreds of U.S. and European retailers and brands.

WWD has learned that the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production organization, which has certi-fied more than 10,000 factories in 72 countries, plans to launch a fire safety training program in Pakistan, building on programs it has run in Bangladesh, ac-cording to WRAP chairman Charles Masten. He said WRAP hopes to work with the Pakistani government and local trade groups to implement a training pro-gram in the near term.

WRAP had certified Ali Enterprises in 2007, 2009 and 2010, but the company’s certification expired at the end of 2011 and was not renewed this year. Masten, who noted that no violations were found in audits of Ali Enterprises, said the “common denomi-nator” in fire safety compliance with core interna-tional standards for all brands, retailers, auditors and certification companies is that entrances and exits are not locked in foreign factories. Workers who sur-vived the Karachi fire said employees could not easily

MONEY RACE

GWYNETH PALTROW WAS AMONG THE EXPAT CROWD IN LONDON RAISING FUNDS FOR

THE OBAMA CAMPAIGN. PAGE 9

WWD.COM2

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The Senate Judiciary Committee passed a bill Wednesday that would give copyright protection to fashion designs for the first time.

The bill, sponsored by Sen. Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.) and named the Innovative Design Protection Act, would expand copyright laws to include fashion designs that are often the tar-get of knockoff artists that profit from another designer’s creation.

It would cover “deliberate cop-ies that are substantially identi-cal to the protected designs” and would provide protection for three years. All designs created in the public domain prior to enactment of the bill would be exempt, and protection would extend automat-ically to designs without registra-tion. A “heightened pleading stan-dard” three-step process requires a plaintiff in a lawsuit to prove the design is “protectable, substantial-ly identical” and that the defen-dant had access to, or was aware of, the “protected design.”

“The fashion industry is [a] pillar of New York’s economy, em-ploying hundreds of thousands of people and contributing billions of dollars to our economy,” said Schumer. “However, overseas competitors are making cheap,

copycat knockoffs of our best creations.…My new fashion bill will provide intellectual prop-erty protections to America’s fashion designers, and now that it has passed out of the Judiciary Committee, we are one step clos-

er to protecting the fashion in-dustry right here in New York.”

The bill’s prospects this year are uncertain, as Congress has a truncated schedule and is ex-pected to break at the end of this week for the November election.

WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2012

Senate Committee OKs Design Piracy Bill

To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is firsTname_lasTname@fairchildfashion.com, using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 204, NO. 62. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at condenast@theygsgroup.com, or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

on WWD.CoM

the Briefing Boxin Today’s WWd

Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production plans to launch a fire safety training program in Pakistan, in the wake of the fire that killed 300 factory workers. PAGE 1 Fergie in February will introduce her first color collection for Wet ‘n’ Wild, designed to offer a lineup products that allude to the songstress’ “fergalicious” lifestyle. PAGE 1 Sonia Rykiel has tapped Geraldo da Conceicao, a senior designer who has worked at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent, as its new artistic director. PAGE 2 The Senate Judiciary Committee passed a bill Wednesday that would give copyright protection to fashion designs for the first time. PAGE 2 Gilt Groupe will shutter its upscale Park & Bond men’s site in early 2013, following the holiday selling season. PAGE 2 Joining Italian actresses Violante Placido and Fiammetta Cicogna in the front row at the Emporio Armani show was Mary Charteris. PAGE 5 Canada’s Eaton family, veterans of the Eaton department store chain, have joined forces with Hudson Capital Partners, a liquidation firm, to form Eaton Hudson. PAGE 7 Level Shoe District, with 96,000 square feet of retail space, will be the largest shoe store in the world when it makes its debut next month. PAGE 7 Tom Ford hosted a fund-raiser for the Obama campaign in London attracting the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Cameron Diaz to the Mark’s Club. PAGE 9 The hot dog/hamburger battle war of words between Oscar de la Renta and New York Times critic Cathy Horyn goes on, with Art Ortenberg the latest to weigh in. PAGE 9 Barry Diller, David Geffen and Lorne Michaels put a party together in honor of Penny Marshall’s new book at New York’s Monkey Bar Wednesday. PAGE 11

Lana Del Rey

EYE: Lana Del Rey’s concert to launch her David Lynch-inspired H&M campaign drew a fashion-heavy crowd to The Wooly on Wednesday night. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye.

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By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Sonia Rykiel has tapped Geraldo da Conceicao, a senior designer who has worked at Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent, as its new artistic director, WWD has learned.

A Canadian national born in Macau, da Conceicao is expected to join the French fashion house next month and show his first collection on the runway in February for the fall season.

Laying the groundwork for the change in creative leadership, Rykiel has opted to cancel its show, which had been scheduled for Sept. 28 during Paris Fashion Week, and will instead present the spring collection to buyers and press in its Paris showrooms.

Da Conceicao is currently a design director at Louis Vuitton in women’s ready-to-wear. He held a similar post at Miu Miu from 2006 to 2011. Before that, he held a variety of senior design positions at Yves Saint Laurent, starting in 1998 and work-ing under Alber Elbaz, Tom Ford and later Stefano Pilati. He also worked as a senior designer at Martine Sitbon early in his career.

The design appointment follows a change in ownership and management of Rykiel, known for its striped knitwear and Left Bank insouciance.

In February, Fung Brands Ltd. acquired 80 percent of the Rykiel business, leaving the found-ing family with a 20 percent stake. Subsequently, Rykiel named Eric Langon from Lancel as chief executive officer, charging him with developing

the brand internationally, particularly in North America and Asia.

“We are opening a new chapter for the com-pany,” Jean-Marc Loubier, chairman at Rykiel and president of Fung Brands, said in an interview. “We are sure [da Conceicao] will be able to take the Rykiel woman and make her international.”

Loubier has reorganized management to ready the company for its global push, appointing Sophie Templier, formerly at Chloé, as product and mer-chandising director, and naming a new commer-cial director, Eric Rousseau, who joins Rykiel from Jean Paul Gaultier. Rousseau previously worked under Loubier when he was ceo at Celine.

Last year, Sonia Rykiel posted sales of about 90 million euros, or $125.5 million at average ex-change rates. Loubier noted that roughly half the business is done outside of France, a ratio the com-pany hopes to bump up with a revamped first line and the accessories category.

April Crichton, who was named creative director last September, is expected to exit the fashion house. A graduate of Central Saint Martins in London, Crichton worked alongside founder Sonia Rykiel and helped to develop the contemporary Sonia by Sonia Rykiel line.

Fung Brands Ltd. is a subsidiary of Fung Capital Ltd., the investment arm of the families of Hong Kong-based Victor Fung and William Fung, who separately control the Li & Fung Group.

Fung Brands also holds majority stakes in French shoe brand Robert Clergerie and Belgian leather goods concern Delvaux.

By DAVID LIPKE

GILT GROuPE will close its upscale Park & Bond men’s site in early 2013, following the holiday selling season.

Park & Bond was launched in August 2011 as a full-price site that offered a range of trendy design-er and contemporary brands, along with an edito-rial voice. It was a complement and counterpart to the off-price, flash-sale model at Gilt.

Elements of Park & Bond will be merged into Gilt Man, as the latter adds more full-price buying options to its business, said Andy Page, president of Gilt Groupe. Gilt Man sells some regular-price merchandise in its Basics shop. Page said it was un-clear at this point if the Park & Bond name would be utilized in any way on the Gilt Man site.

The move is the second high-profile closure of a

men’s site this year, following the April termination of Cladmen.com by partners J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Esquire magazine.

“We did a lot of strategic work internally, and we found that our customers were a bit confused having two separate men’s destinations under the Gilt um-brella,” said Page of the decision to eliminate Park & Bond. Page said the competing value propositions between the off-price merchandise on Gilt and the sale merchandise on Park & Bond was unclear to customers, once markdowns began on the latter.

The move is part of a larger effort to stream-line the overall Gilt Groupe business and move it toward profitability as the company aims for an initial public offering. Typical of an e-commerce startup of its scale, the Park & Bond division was not turning a profit on the $10-million-plus business it had developed over the past year, said Page.

Rykiel Names Geraldo da Conceicao

Gilt Groupe to Shutter Park & Bond

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Day two highlights? the power of flowers at praDa, a sexy safari at Max Mara anD

soft silhouettes at eMporio arMani.

MILAN COLLECTIONS

Spring 2013Prada: Power. Beauty. Sex. Fragility. Artifice. Over the years, Miuccia Prada has addressed them all on her runway. For her spring collection, she sought to reconcile two oppositional characteristics of womanhood: “toughness and the poetic part,” she explained backstage. “I tried to mix them together, because this is mainly what women have to deal with in reality. The clothes are the expression of this impossible dream.”

Fashion is the very stuff of dreams. We look to it to make dreams seem, in the transient moment, a little less impossible. It is also the stuff of commerce. No one plays one off the other more deftly or more brilliantly than Prada, a process that once again took her to that compelling point where clothes to ponder meet clothes to wear.

These clothes were neither overtly romantic nor wistful, the shapes stark to the point of severity. But the first look out, a short black dress, was emblazoned with an off-center panel decorated with two white long-stemmed flowers that looked drawn in chalk. They might have been an ode to Flower Power Pop or to a third-grade art class. Then followed a parade of similarly crafted suits, dresses, jackets over knee shorts, their printed and appliquéd flowers providing sweet counterpoint to the austere shapes. One saw references to traditional Japanese kimonos, hakamas and footwear, as well as hints of Prada’s ongoing fascination with lingerie. Color started to work its way in: a dark green coat, a lone navy dress, splashes of red, and then, full-on pastels, all icy pink, green and girly. Throughout, the flowers changed without losing their clarity: a single large medallion on the bodice of a dress; high-contrast graphics on remarkable fur coats and stoles. (One big-petaled bloom turned toward Rei Kawakubo.)

It all looked beautiful, unfussy and even sober at times, intended to fascinate its way beyond fashion chatter and into real life. Speaking of which, asked about the fur, Prada called it “a symbol of possibilities. So much is forbidden now. Dreams are forbidden, nostalgia is forbidden and to be too sweet — you can’t…” She couldn’t have missed the added resonance of the word forbidden when applied to fur. Provocation? Prada likes it ultrachic, intelligent and wearable, too.

Max Mara: Out of Africa by way of the Eighties. That was the prescription for Max Mara’s collection, which worked a specific take on safari — sexy and with attitude. These were clothes for a latter-day power woman, one secure in the knowledge that she looks good, strong and on the cusp of intimidating.

So bring on the big-game khakis (and tobaccos and camels) in supple fabrics such as techno-silk and ultrasoft suede. The design team under fashion director Laura Lusuardi favored a long silhouette that featured an accented shoulder (via pads, epaulets, sheer insets) and back volume (blousons, trench-backs, flapping stadium hoods); it was tapered into hip-hugging skirts or pants A trench dress had short, full sleeves and a double flange on one side; the lean proportions of a jumpsuit mocked its utility roots.The jungle fever heightened with animal prints, sometimes in a raucous collage with florals and an earth-toned plaid. These ranged from the good kind of bold (multipatterned skirt with something solid on top) to the approaching headache kind (spots, plaids and flowers head to toe, coming and going). The insertion of some lovely dusty blues made for a restful counterpoint.

Emporio Armani: Giorgio Armani couldn’t have picked a more suitable name for his strong Emporio Armani show than “Neat.” As the show notes put it, he aimed for “a way of being and expressing yourself that is simple and natural.” The parade of lovely pieces captured that mood with clean silhouettes and a lightness Armani hasn’t demonstrated in some time.

While he started with several men’s wear-inspired looks — Prince of Wales-checked coats with matching shorts or a folded skirt — the clothes had a feminine feel, as in the draped and layered dresses rendered in a languid fit. A palette of nudes, naturals and pas-tels added a softness to the shapes, particularly when Armani combined the tones in one look. The pretty confetti tweed coat over a faded color-blocked dress looked, like most of the collection, chic and spirited.

Max MaraPrada Prada

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WWD.COM5WWD friday, september 21, 2012

For more coverage, see

WWD.com/runway.

FAShION SCOOpS Max Mara Emporio ArmaniPrada

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OFF DUTY: Joining Italian actresses Violante Placido and Fiammetta Cicogna in the front row at the Emporio Armani show was Mary Charteris, fresh from her honeymoon with Robbie Furze of rock band The Big Pink. Following their wedding on Sept. 1 — which drew guests including the bride’s aunt Daphne Guinness, Poppy Delevingne, Florence Welch, Lily Allen, Jerry Hall and Georgia May Jagger — the couple spent time in Santorini in Greece, and then headed to a friend’s house in the south of France.

“It was nice to be around our friends, because for our wedding we were so surrounded by our favorite people in the whole world, and then suddenly being on our own in Greece was a bit of a shell shock,” she confessed. Still, Charteris has coasted into married life.

“Weirdly, it doesn’t feel very different at all. I feel like I’ve been married to Robbie since the day I met him, pretty much. I wanted there to be this big weird change, but I think he feels the change more than I do,” she said. Now it’s back to work. In addition to DJing at various fashion parties, Charteris is attending the Milan shows as fashion editor at large for Lula magazine.

Fencer Andrea Cassarà, on the other hand, has been taking it easy since winning a gold medal at the London Olympics in the men’s team foil event. After taking his girlfriend on vacation to the island of Spetses in Greece, he is slowly gearing up for a return to competition, starting with the men’s foil World Cup in Paris in January.

Even off duty, the 6-foot, 4-inch tall athlete has to stick to a draconian diet that forbids him from indulging in most Italian food. “It’s very difficult, because I love pizza, and ice cream, too, but I have one day off and I can eat what I want,” Cassarà said with a grin.

— JOELLE DiDERiCH

SOUND OFF: Before his Emporio Armani show, Giorgio Armani held a press conference and responded to a Roberto Cavalli blog entry last week. In the entry, Cavalli called Armani “Reuccio,” which translates to “Little King,” to whom, he wrote, the Italian Chamber of Fashion acquiesces when mapping out the show calendar as “his every choice is perceived as an order!”

The response from an amused Armani? “Cavalli should be quiet because the ‘Little King’ could start to get angry.”

Cavalli wrote in his post, “As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of ‘Little King’ Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone. What can I do? Do I stay the final day, running the risk that some foreign journalists will forgo my show, or should I overlap with smaller fry, smaller brands, acting as some of my colleagues do?”

On the Milan show calendar, Cavalli is the biggest name on Monday, the last day of fashion week there as Armani this season moved his show to Sunday, when he will also unveil an exhibition.

Armani is not the only designer Cavalli took to task, as he also accused the association of abiding by the demands of designers such as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. — LUiSA ZARGANi

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WWD.COMWWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 20126

FOR MORE COVERAGE, SEE

WWD.com/runway.

SPRING 2013COLLECTIONS

MILAN

Blugirl: Inspired by David Hamilton photographs, Anna Molinari’s lineup for Blugirl was all about bohemian innocence laced with a subtle innuendo. The silhouettes were sweet (drop-waist dresses with tiered ruffled skirts, peasant styles, baby dolls) and the fabrics (broderie anglais, delicate crochet, eyelet, tulle) were pure sugar.

Yet Molinari cut the saccharine with a soft sexuality, working in sheers layered over animal prints. If focused to the point of repetition — nearly identical styles were cycled through an array of pastels — the collection made sense for the contemporary customer, more so than it has in past seasons.

Jet Set: Swiss brand Jet Set presented its first comprehensive collection, which demonstrated just how much the label has grown under the management of chief executive officer Massimo Suppancig.

He took on his role after investment company Gaydoul Group purchased Jet Set in 2009; since then, Suppancig has been building on its luxury sportswear heritage from the Seventies — when Gianni Agnelli and Grace Kelly were among its fans — and making inroads with international retailers.

For spring, the design team presented a lineup of easy yet sophisticated looks in materials that ranged from a technical ripstop nylon to silk and cashmere blends to eco leather. There were cocoon-shaped jackets and trenches; drawstring, hooded vests; varsity jackets and crepe de chine dresses embellished with asymmetric zippers — all of it worked into three themes: air, water and camouflage.

“Femininity and design is what’s often missing from dressed-down looks — there’s a lack of shape,” said Suppancig. “But the future, I think, is in this direction with more fitted styles.”

Krizia: The black panther is a recurring motif at Krizia, and this season, visions of wildcats sent creative director Mariuccia Mandelli on an exotic safari. African influences were sprinkled throughout, from the oversize crocodile scales on the sleeves of a sleek tuxedo to a chic belted linen coatdress with undulating organza sleeves. This mix of sheer and opaque was a theme of the collection, and along with the savvy use of gold accents, it made for a sophisticated urban take on the colonial motif — give or take a few animal-inspired intarsia sweaters.

Ports 1961: After moving her production team and showroom to Milan, creative director Fiona Cibani showed her Ports 1961 line at Milan Fashion Week for the first time. The collection was feminine without indulging in frivolous details. The delicate romanticism — Chantilly lace skirts layered over organza pleated apron skirts — was tempered by minimal, clean topcoats, including a great aquamarine leather trench and a voluminous, flared V-neck coat in white and yellow.

Cibani also embraced a more athletic theme, demonstrated with an oversize leather polo and napa sweatpants matched with a sensual see-through lace top. A flared skirt and an elongated T-shirt were bathed in sequins and Swarovski Elements, injecting a glamorous touch in the otherwise sober lineup.

Ermanno Scervino: Billed as “boho-chic” in his show notes, Ermanno Scervino’s collection lived up to the first part of that description with its fringe, tassels and suede, while serving as a reminder that “chic” is a subjective word. Scervino’s definition included flamboyant color combinations — bright orange and hot pink, mustard yellow and brown — worked on tunics, skimpy halters and clingy jersey mermaid skirts. More subtle, by virtue of its black-and-white palette, was the second half of the lineup, where some tailored options were an improvement on the fiesta wear.

Piazza Sempione: Collection director Fabio Falleti smoothly transitioned from resort into spring with a lineup inspired by the late Sixties and Seventies. He peppered in surface interest with Shibori prints on a shift dress and a graphic leaf motif mixed with a classic tie pattern on a tunic. Several embroideries, including one in the form of an oversize black paisley stitched on a simple white linen coat, added some extra punch.

Mantù: A glamorous mood ran through the chic, wearable Mantù collection that mixed an urban, contemporary aesthetic with jet-set elements.

Designer Gigi Vezzola reworked rich fabrics (brocades, embossed silks) for a solid lineup of simple daywear shapes featuring extravagant accents, i.e. the summery, cropped mink lined with a floral-printed canvas.

The focus was on short and boxy jackets matched with cigarette pants and ultrafeminine, voluminous flared skirts, while color-blocked frocks were shown either fitted with built-in bras or in oversize shirtdress silhouettes embellished with ruffles.

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escape the building because the doors were locked.“I can feel comfortable that when that auditor went

into the factory on that day and completed an audit, all those entrances and exits were not locked,” he said.

But Masten acknowledged that all bets are off when the auditors leave a factory.

“An audit is a snapshot when you go in there,” Masten said. “All hell can break loose as soon as the auditors leave. That is the reason that with all WRAP agreements up front, we let them know we will come back unannounced at any time we want to see if they are adhering to our principles. We don’t even tolerate doors being obstructed with big shipments that prevent workers from getting in and out of the factory.”

Ali Enterprises did receive certification in August from an independent auditor, RINA Services, showing it complied with core international labor standards, including health and safety requirements. The Italian auditing company has since suspended all auditing ac-tivity in Pakistan and launched an internal investiga-tion. RINA was accredited and supervised by Social Accountability Accreditation Services, an independent company based in New York, which is undertaking its own internal investigation.

Eileen Kohl Kaufman, executive director of Social Accountability International, the company that established the separate SAAS accreditation company, said: “We are rethinking everything. This is a terrible tragedy. It is horrible. We hope our investigation, SAAS’s investigation, RINA’s investigation and the investigations by many NGOs [nongovernmental organizations], trade unions and the government of Pakistan

will result in an understand-ing of what exactly happened so that everybody connected in any way can try to prevent fu-ture occurrences.”

SAI officials said in a state-ment on its Web site that social audits based on certifications are “imperfect at best.

“It is not unusual for social auditors to experience situa-tions where true information about conditions is hard to uncover or intentionally falsi-fied,” the statement said. “False documentation and pressure on workers not to tell the truth are regrettably common in some areas, and however skilled audi-tors may be in recognizing this, problems still exist.”

Kaufman said the company has been involved in fire safety training programs in Bangladesh and is open to collaborating on new initiatives in Pakistan.

Details about which brands Ali Enterprises was pro-ducing began to emerge this week. German apparel and

nonfood discounter KiK, which operates 2,600 doors in Germany and 3,200 doors in Europe, confirmed Ali Enterprises produced jeans for the chain. KiK noted it requires all contractors to conform to elementary labor laws and safety standards, which are examined by ex-

ternal, independent and accredited agencies.KiK said it conducted three audits of Ali

Enterprises through UL Responsible Sourcing Inc. After failing to meet fire safety requirements in the first audit in 2007, the factory took neces-sary actions, as confirmed by a report from Dec. 30, 2011. KiK said it is investigating the tragic event and has been provided with daily updates by its local purchasing agency. The retailer will also be meeting with UL Responsible Sourcing this week. KiK, which is among Germany’s 10 larg-est retailers, has previously come under scrutiny regarding the labor standards of its contractors in Asia. In reaction to the Karachi fire, KiK said it began setting up a relief fund last week.

In related news, German retailer Tchibo said it has reached an agreement with trade unions and social standards advocacy groups such as the Clean Clothes Campaign to implement a fire and building safety program in Bangladesh apparel factories. Tchibo is the second company to com-mit to the program, which was first agreed to by PVH Corp. in March.

“We take the risks very seriously and see the need to join forces at a multistakeholder level in order to achieve a sector-wide change in Bangladesh,” the company said Thursday.

Since 2006, more than 600 garment workers have died in Bangladesh due to unsafe buildings.

— WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MELISSA DRIER, BERLIN, AND JOHN ZAROCOSTAS, GENEVA

7WWD friday, september 21 , 2012

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — Safety standards in the global ap-parel industry are under the microscope once again.

In the wake of the tragic fire in the Asian nation that killed nearly 300 workers at a garment factory and intensified scrutiny over nonprofit monitoring and factory certification groups, one U.S.-based cer-tification group plans to roll out a fire safety training program in Pakistan.

The fire ripped through Ali Enterprises Inc., a jeans manufacturer based in Karachi, Pakistan, last week, leaving 289 garment workers dead. The inci-dent sent shock waves throughout the entire global apparel industry and raised questions about the safe-ty of garment workers stitching clothing for European and U.S. brands in Pakistan and around the world. It also led to the resignation of the Sindh Minister for Industry, the arrest of the factory owners for attempt-ed murder and brought more attention to the moni-toring and certification companies used by hundreds of U.S. and European retailers and brands.

WWD has learned that the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production organization, which has certi-fied more than 10,000 factories in 72 countries, plans to launch a fire safety training program in Pakistan, building on programs it has run in Bangladesh, ac-cording to WRAP chairman Charles Masten. He said WRAP hopes to work with the Pakistani government and local trade groups to implement a training pro-gram in the near term.

WRAP had certified Ali Enterprises in 2007, 2009 and 2010, but the company’s certification expired at the end of 2011 and was not renewed this year. Masten, who noted that no violations were found in audits of Ali Enterprises, said the “common denomi-nator” in fire safety compliance with core interna-tional standards for all brands, retailers, auditors and certification companies is that entrances and exits are not locked in foreign factories. Workers who sur-vived the Karachi fire said employees could not easily

Canada’s Eaton Family Back in Retail

By VICKI M. YOUNG

CANADA’S EATON FAMILY is back in retail, but not in the way one might think.

The veterans of the Eaton department store chain have joined forces with Hudson Capital Partners, a liquidation firm, to form Eaton Hudson. Eaton Hudson will provide asset dis-position services to retailers, as well as develop and manage pop-up stores. Both services will be available throughout North America.

Fredrik Eaton serves as chairman of the board. Fredrik D’Arcy Eaton, James Schaye, Fulton Stokes and A.R. Williams round out the management team. The new firm has of-fices in Toronto, where the Eaton family is based, and Atlanta, the headquarters of the former Hudson Capital Partners. Most of the operations will be han-dled by the former Hudson Capital team members, with the Eaton family providing the bulk of the fund-ing for the new entity.

D’Arcy Eaton said, “We’re basically investors now, looking for opportunities we understand and have a chance to earn a return on.”

He said the component that they liked about the entity’s business model is the ability to leverage open-ing and closing stores through the pop-up concept as an opportunity for future growth instead of relying solely on store liquidations.

According to Schaye, who is chief executive officer of Eaton Hudson, the pop-up concept works for con-sumer brands that could use the retail presence with-out needing to commit to a long-term lease. A fashion firm could open seasonal pop-ups as pseudo-outlet stores to clear excess inventory, and know that it’ll pay rent only for however long the shops are open.

Eaton Hudson essentially would provide turnkey services that include financial modeling, site selec-tion, lease negotiation, staffing, assortment planning and the physical setup and takedown of the shops.

The new firm also formed a partnership with 3pe Consulting to assist in the pop-up effort, headed by Andy Bailen, managing director of 3pe.

According to Bailen, the pop-up model — once the domain of retailers — is becoming increasingly popu-lar with manufacturers, dot-com retailers and licen-sors and licensing agencies.

“A lot of people are testing the for-profit pop-up concepts and generating some meaningful top line, four-wall EBITDA,” Bailen said.

exclusive

Canada’s Eaton Family In New Retail Venture

Arshad and Shahid Bhaila, who along with their father Abdul Aziz Bhaila, owned Ali Enterprises, the Karachi factory that burned down last week.

Pakistan Factory Fire Brings Working Conditions to Fore

{Continued from page one}

By RITU UPADHYAY

DUBAI — The world’s largest selection of shoes under one roof will debut in Dubai next month. With 96,000 square feet of retail space, Level Shoe District, a new concept by Dubai-based Chalhoub Group, will be the largest shoe store in the world, offering women’s and men’s contempo-rary and fashion footwear.

With more than 250 footwear brands, as well as a foot spa, in-house cobbler, private VIP lounges and a Vogue Café and Vogue Espresso bar (operated by Condé Nast Restaurants), Level is a pioneering depart-ment store concept that will be exclusively dedicated to shoes. “It’s a place for shoe lovers to come together, where our customers can spend the whole day,” said Rania Masri, general manager of Chalhoub Group Retails Fashion Own Concepts.

Level, located at the Dubai Mall, will be anchored by a Louis Vuitton flagship shoe store, the first of its kind in the world, with eight rooms as well as a bespoke shoe service. In addition to the anchors, the shoe megastore will host more than 40 individual branded shops-in-shop ranging from Prada and Yves Saint Laurent to Dior and Gucci, as well as designer and trend multibrand areas. The “sneak-er avenue” will offer limited-edition collections from lead-ing lifestyle brands.

“The thought is that the same customer who might buy a Lanvin shoe will also want the latest Nike collabora-tion,” said Masri.

Masri noted that there is strong demand for retail out-lets that can serve as a platform for the footwear. “Design

houses are spending a lot on developing this category. For instance, Gucci now has over 800 styles, but not many plac-es can stock such a large selection.”

Also launching for the first time outside of London will be a Sole Lounge by foot specialist and celebrity fa-vorite Margaret Dabbs. Podiatrists and nail technicians will offer treatments, including oxygen revitalization therapy for the feet.

The Chalhoub Group, one of the largest franchis-ers of luxury brands in the Middle East, brought in SHED, a London-based interior architecture and de-sign agency whose clients include Vertu and Harrods, to design the concept. One of the hallmark pieces will be a central digital art installation designed by United Visual Artists, the team behind the visual installation at Buckingham Palace during Queen Elizabeth II’s Jubilee celebrations.

Dubai Gets World’s Largest Shoe StoreA rendering of an area of the selling space.

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For Fergie, the proj-ect is particularly mean-ingful. “This is a brand that is truly nostalgic for me,” she said about Wet ‘n’ Wild. “For me and my Latinas in my area grow-ing up, Wet ‘n’ Wild was the brand.”

Her lineup of 21 prod-ucts includes items that reference the star’s per-formance needs and is wrought with personal touches added for her fans. Like many of her Black Eyed Peas songs, Fergie also took the oppor-tunity to “shout out” some of the various nationalities in her fan base through her shade names.

The For My Primas primer (“for my cousins” in Spanish) is inspired by her Hispanic fans, while Perfect Pout Lip Color shade, Bebot Love, is for “her Filipinos” and the Carnaval in Rio Shimmer palette is for her “Brazilian fans. I love the Shimmer Palette because it works on all differ-ent skin tones,” said Fergie, who counts Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren among her personal beauty inspirations. “Glowing skin is so important to me.”

Industry sources estimate the range, which will be available at nearly 10,000 mass market doors as well as online, could generate between $7 million and $10 million in its first year.

Of her products, Fergie named a few that she is particularly proud of.

For one, the Lasting Drama Cream Eyeliner, which is both water- and smudge-proof, is a favorite due to its performance-withstanding abilities. “I wanted something I could wear on stage,” said Fergie, both a solo artist and a member of the Black Eyed Peas. “I hate when liner gets all over the eye.”

Another is her Take on the Day Eyeshadow Primer, which “was impor-tant to me because I use it on a daily basis,” said Fergie, who introduced the Fergie Nail Color Collection with Wet ‘n’ Wild earlier this fall.

Despite her glamorous stage and red-carpet persona, Fergie said her day-to-day look is relatively low main-

tenance: “Daily, I wear the Wet ‘n’ Wild Glassy Gloss and my new Avon fra-grance, Viva, which is coming out soon. It’s a fresh everyday scent.”

Although she isn’t touring, Fergie said she is still working on new music. “I don’t think I could ever stop work-ing on music,” she said. “Ideas happen and they are such a gift that you have to write them down. You don’t know if you will ever get them again.”

In fact, Fergie said her album “The Dutchess,” which sold more than six million copies worldwide, was the com-pilation of “seven years of songs and ideas. I kept nurturing it and marinating it and by the time [it feels like] I’m done, it will be ready.”

Fergie is also designing a line of smart-phone and tablet cases called the Case-Mate Collection, constantly updating her shoe lines with Brown Shoe Co. Inc. She is also a part-owner of the Miami Dolphins and a partner in Voli Vodka. “I’d also love to do something theatrical and character-driven,” said an ebullient Fergie, about her desire to return to acting.

When it comes to married life, Fergie said, “It’s a balancing act. It’s very im-portant to make sure you nurture your relationship. We always have a date night once a week and two weeks is the longest we’ll go without seeing each other.”

Kiss Products’ Latest Touch Fergie Launching Color Line beautyNEW YORK — The already sizzling nail gel category got another boost when First Lady Michelle Obama flashed her gel-cov-ered talons — painted in a shade called Vogue by Artistic Colour Gloss — during her speech at the Democratic National Convention earlier this month.

A line from another company is now attracting the attention of mass retailers, who continue to tout the staying power of the do-it-yourself nail gel segment. The new line, called Everlasting Gel Polish is from Kiss Products.

One leading drugstore chain buyer said Kiss brings a great reputation and keen price point to the category, which is selling briskly.

“Our heritage in the nail business, especially the artifi-cial business, helps our launch stand out,” said Grace Tallon, senior vice president marketing at Kiss. The company is riding high from the launch of a gel-like press-on nail ear-lier this year called imPRESS. “We want to keep the momentum high, bring salon product to the home and support with ad-vertising,” Tallon added.

The lineup will be available in stores by December to take advantage of holi-day demand, she said.

Everlasting Gel Polish will join other at-home gel products, including Red Carpet Manicure, Sally Hansen’s InstaGel Strips and Salon GelPolish and Pacific World’s SensatioNail. The total gel market is esti-

mated at $2.6 billion, which includes both salon and home application. Buyers esti-mate there’s an opportunity to net as much as 40 percent of the business in retail sales.

Kiss’ offer includes an LED light, which is sold separately, unlike some competitors that bundle the light. “We decided to sell the light separately since some people already have one,” said Tallon. The collection includes a top gel, a base gel, a prep and cleanse, gel pol-ish in 15 shades, a color polish kit and

a French manicure kit. Kiss con-tends it is the only option on the

market with a patented French wrap that is applied to the tip to easily create the French manicure look instead of manually drawing the line.

Tallon believes the nails also solve one of the biggest

issues with the gels — removal. Because there is not a primer in

the regimen, the nails can be removed with traditional remover. Retailers said some women have been turned off by the kits because of the difficulty of removing the gels.

Buyers said they plan to carry at least two different gel brands as consumers experiment with the gel-at-home craze. In many cases, space is being pared from implements to accommodate the new gel entries. Buyers equate the flood of new gels with the race to dominate the mineral makeup business a few years ago or, more recently, the BB cream race.

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TENGRAM CAPITAL Partners LLC, a Connecticut-based private equity firm, has become a major partner in Nest Fragrances, founded and headed by chief executive officer Laura Slatkin.

The terms of the deal were not dis-closed, but WWD has learned that the size of Tengram’s stake is 57 percent.

Since its founding in 2005, Nest has been a private-label candle and luxury home fragrance manufacturer. This sea-son, the company has expanded into fine fragrance with a trio of botanically based scents inspired by the work of 18th-cen-tury British artist Mary Delany. Slatkin’s goal is to transform Nest into what she calls “a world-class luxury lifestyle beauty brand.” During an interview Thursday, the ceo said she intends to expand the prod-uct offering into additional beauty catego-ries and “other home related products” as well as “appropriate retail locations.” Nest has already won its own designated space in 16 Neiman Marcus doors.

Matthew Eby, cofounder and man-aging partner of Tengram, stated, “we are very much looking forward to work-ing with her and her talented team to drive the brand’s continued expansion into new product categories and inter-national markets.” According to indus-try sources, the company is expected to generate sales of $60 million at whole-sale in the coming year.

In addition to launching the trio of eaux de parfum and body cream this month, Nest introduced a new line of personal care products in July, includ-ing body wash and body cream. The fine fragrances are exclusive to Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.

Slatkin also has been building up the staff. John Korinis, formerly of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., recently joined Nest as chief financial officer in charge of finance, operations and information technology.

Slatkin said Tengram will truly act as a partner. “It will not be involved in day-to-day operations,” she said, “but it will assist us in formulating strategic plan-ning, strategy and vision.”

Tengram Acquires Stake in Nest

{Continued from page one}

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LONDON — The presidential money race hasn’t been limited to U.S. borders this election season. The jet set did its part for the Obama campaign Wednesday as Tom Ford hosted a fund-raiser here attracting the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and

Cameron Diaz to Mark’s Club. For more, see page 10.

O-ver There ORTENBERG’S VIEW: The hot dog-hamburger war of words between Oscar de la Renta and New York Times critic Cathy Horyn goes on, fueled by Lady Gaga’s tweet last week in support of the designer. The latest to weigh in is Art Ortenberg, one of the founders of Liz Claiborne Inc., and Horyn’s companion. Ortenberg took umbrage at Gaga’s contention — actually made in a September 2011 piece for V magazine — that no one person’s opinion about fashion should be more important than another’s.

Here, Ortenberg’s Letter to the Editor of WWD on the matter:

“To the Editor:True, Cathy Horyn is my girlfriend.

Nevertheless, I feel it necessary to cudgel Gaga for her badly informed, dumbing-down opinion that an uninformed opinion is as valid as that of a seasoned critic — as though Gaga and Bridget Foley of WWD or David Denby of The New Yorker or Ben Brantley of The New York Times or Brooks Atkinson or Pauline Kael or any professional critic is just another opinion and that Gaga’s vacuous thoughts deserve the same status. Grow up, Gaga.”

IMG’S MALE ORDER: For the first time in five years, IMG Models is back in the business of representing men.

Senior vice president and managing director Ivan Bart has lined up Kevin Apana and Greg Chan to help him build the division. Both are industry veterans and worked at Wilhelmina until February. The new hires now report to Bart.

The Hawaiian-born Apana started his career at IMG Models, where he managed Tyson Ballou, among others.

With Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss and Gisele Bündchen among its female roster, IMG Models has the shingle out to try to attract male models of comparable caliber. Bart said, “As a leader in the modeling industry, we felt the time was right to relaunch our men’s division.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

HEADING EAST: Indochine Media, a regional publisher, will relaunch Robb Report in Singapore on Nov. 23, about two years after a previous iteration closed down. Indochine already has licenses from California-based CurtCo Robb Media LLC to publish the magazine in Thailand and Malaysia, which it plans to do in 2013 and 2014, respectively. A Vietnam edition, also put out by Indochine, was launched last year.

Michael von Schlippe, who oversees day-to-day operations at Indochine, said the Singapore edition would see an initial print run of 15,000 copies. The title will cost 8 Singapore dollars, or about $6.50 at current exchange, on newsstands. Indochine expects much of Robb Report’s readership to come from tie-ups with private banks to distribute copies to priority customers, a strategy Robb Report has pursued in Vietnam and Russia.

Schlippe said that the Singapore version, which will draw only about 10 percent of its content from its U.S. parent, would differentiate itself from other luxury magazines by focusing on local content. “You can easily buy French Vogue or Australian GQ here, but both titles are not present as Singapore editions,” he said. “In terms of local editions in this segment, there are not very many magazines I would consider to be direct competitors.” — KRISTIANO ANG

10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2012

Barack’s Buddies“ARE YOU KIDDING? If you have a social conscience, you have to vote Obama,” said Tom Ford, who cohosted a fund-raising dinner with Anna Wintour for the president in London Wednesday night.

Guests included Gwyneth Paltrow, who wore a white double georgette Tom Ford dress; Cameron Diaz, who chose Emilia Wickstead; Natalie Massenet, who was in Yves Saint Laurent; Elizabeth Saltzman, who wore Michael Kors and Giuseppe Zanotti; Elizabeth McGovern and Richard Buckley.

The dinner was held at the private Mark’s Club, just off Berkeley Square, with about 55 guests paying $15,000 a plate — salmon was on the menu — in support of the Obama Victory Fund 2012.

This was only the first European stop for Wintour, who wore a brown floral hand-painted pleated dress by Tom Ford for the evening. She will be giving another dinner during Paris Fashion Week, with tickets costing $2,500 for the reception and $10,000 for dinner.

David Plouffe, Obama’s leading political strategist, spoke during the evening and fielded questions about the campaign. “It was really engaging. Usually those things are a lot of sound bites, but he was inspiring,” said Buckley.

“It was great, so important,” said Saltzman. “It was so interesting to hear all the questions and answers and it was, for me, hugely educational.” Massenet called it a “lovely dinner in the warm environment of Mark’s.” — JULIA NEEL

ALONG HER whirlwind ride to pop stardom over the last 18 months or so, Lana Del Rey has forged a strong, symbiotic bond with the fashion community. There is her namesake handbag from Mulberry, a contract with Next Model Management and, as of this week, the fall advertising campaign she is fronting for H&M. The relationship makes a sort of sense. The singer’s approach to songcraft, heavy on finely curated pop-historical reference in both lyric and presentation, could be fairly compared to a designer’s mood board. Surely more than a few ateliers were responsible for some of those early YouTube views. And she tends to wear clothes well.

So it came as no surprise that a brief concert Del Rey put on to launch the David Lynch-inspired H&M campaign drew a fashion-heavy crowd to The Wooly on Wednesday night.

Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu and Timo Weiland were all in the house, as were a number of socialites and party circuit regulars such as Maggie Betts, Barbara Bush, Arden Wohl, Cory Kennedy and André Saraiva. “I see so many faces that I love, we’re so happy to be here,” Del Rey said in her coquettish pitch, introducing herself to cheers and outstretched camera phones around 9 p.m. (She eschewed interviews for the evening.) It was the sort of crowd that applauded more loudly when the singer removed her jacket to reveal a floor-length black evening dress than for the opening notes of her signature hit, “Video Games.” “I have to say, if we knew how happy you’d be, this wouldn’t be the last song....But it is,” she said with a perk before closing, 15 minutes later, with “Blue Velvet.” The song, natch, soundtracks the new commercials.

— MATTHEW LYNCH

Lana Live

ON TUESDAY NIGHT, the autumn social season was ready to begin, as is custom in Manhattan these days, with the New Yorkers for Children’s Fall Gala. But outside the heavy doors of Cipriani, hurricane season had one last mighty torrent to deposit on 42nd Street, complicating things for late-arriving socials and their dresses. The scene felt somehow appropriate, coming on the heels of a fashion week that was more contentious than usual, rife with slapping incidents, after party fights and traded newsprint barbs.

Even Selita Ebanks’ pet was feeling the upheaval.

“My dog is sick, and I mean both ends sick,” the model allowed while awaiting a drink near the bar in a long black gown and glittery Swarovski earrings. “I feel like a bad mommy leaving him at home.”

Around Ebanks, a mix of models and socialites small

talked their way through cocktail hour. Lauren Remington Platt, Michelle Harper, Hannah Bronfman, Hilary Rhoda and Aerin Lauder were all in attendance, as were a few of the kids the charity, which benefits youths in foster care, works with. Ebanks’ talk turned to the organization and to New York Giants defensive end Justin Tuck, who was to be honored later in the evening. The nonprofit also handed its inaugural business leadership award to the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. group president John Demsey.

Earlier in the night, Tuck had been standing with his wife Lauran, a New Yorkers for Children board member, near the red carpet and a mock forest grove that had greeted guests.

“It’s been a great combination for the both of us as far as taking what is a huge negative in our foster care system — at 18 they’re pretty much on their own — and giving them some hope going into college,” Tuck said of the couple’s

work with the organization.Good causes dissected, Tuck

was asked about the city’s recent combative air. His Giants, after all, had seen the last play of an otherwise in-the-bag win on Sunday over Tampa Bay turn particularly violent. He looked out the front door at the storm.

“It’s really windy right now,” he laughed. “That’s all I can say.”

— M.L.

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Barack’s BuddiesThis was only the first

european stop for Wintour, who wore a brown floral hand-painted pleated dress by Tom Ford for the evening. She will be giving another dinner during Paris Fashion Week, with tickets costing $2,500 for the reception and $10,000 for dinner.

David Plouffe, obama’s leading political strategist, spoke during the evening and fielded questions about the campaign. “it was really engaging. usually those things are a lot of sound bites, but he was inspiring,” said Buckley.

“it was great, so important,” said Saltzman. “it was so interesting to hear all the questions and answers and it was, for me, hugely educational.” Massenet called it a “lovely dinner in the warm environment of Mark’s.” — JULIA NEEL

RON PERELMAN speaks his mind — and what was on his mind Thursday afternoon at the Four Seasons in new york was women’s heart disease. Perelman, chairman and chief executive officer of MacAndrews & Forbes holdings inc. and chairman of revlon, threw the lunch in the restaurant’s Pool room to honor Barbra Streisand and the work done by the Barbra Streisand Women’s heart Center at Cedars-Sinai hospital in Los Angeles and the Women’s initiative of the ronald o. Perelman heart institute at the new york-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell Medical Center.

“She’s one of the most beautiful and talented women in the world — and a pain in the ass, just like me,” Perelman said with a laugh as he introduced Streisand to the crowd, which included Debra Messing, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Donna Karan, Star Jones, Gayle King, newly named Cosmopolitan editor in chief Joanna Coles and glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive. “Barbra called me about six months ago and said she thought it would be wonderful if we could work together. Through her efforts, we have the opportunity to help many more women.” Surveying the crowd of about 65 people, he added, “next year, i’d

like to fill all three rooms at the Four Seasons.” Perelman donated $1 million to Streisand’s center at Cedars-Sinai, as well.

Streisand pointed out that Americans spend $7 billion a year on potato chips and $110 billion on fast food, but only a tiny fraction of that total is spent on heart research — and only on men’s hearts, which Streisand sees as a gender equality issue. “Women have different plumbing,” said a donna karan-clad Streisand. “i’ve always been outspoken on civil rights, and this matters. Women are still being treated as second-class citizens when it comes to heart disease, which kills more women than all types of cancer combined. Far more women than men die of heart disease. And heart research done on women also benefits men, especially when it comes to stem-cell research.”

deputy Mayor Patti Harris read a proclamation from Mayor Michael Bloomberg, declaring the day as Women’s heart health day.

The luncheon was cohosted by Dr. Holly S. Andersen, director of education and women’s heart health at the Perelman heart institute, and Dr. C. Noel Bairey Merz, director of the Barbra Streisand Women’s heart Center. — JULIE NAUgHToN

Marshalling the TroopsPENNY MARSHALL didn’t know some of the people at her book party Wednesday night at new york’s Monkey Bar. of course, there were the friends — Barry Diller, David Geffen and Lorne Michaels put the party together in honor of Marshall’s new book, “My Mother Was nuts: A Memoir.” Ron Perelman has known her for 30 years.

“We met when she did a commercial for us at revlon and we became best friends,” Perelman said. “She’s like one of my sisters.” he didn’t know, though, if he was in the book. “i haven’t read it,” he said. he is, in the acknowledgments.

There were the actor friends. Carol Kane, who once played a gypsy, olga, in “Laverne & Shirley,” and frequent movie heavy Robert Loggia, Tom Hanks’ boss in “Big.” But there was also Wendi Deng.

“Who?” Marshall blared in her trademark honk, speaking a day after the party. She perked up when the other last name came up — Murdoch.

“i don’t know who she is. i know Rupert,” Marshall emphasized. “he owned a studio i worked for.” That would be 20th Century Fox, which released “Big.”

Marshall does know Mariah Carey, who got to the shindig late — as Perelman, Fran Lebowitz, Graydon Carter and John McEnroe were already around one of the long booths in the mezzanine ordering dinner. “She came from the studio,” Marshall explained of Carey’s tardiness.

“i’ve known her for 18, 19 years,” Marshall said. “We hadn’t seen each other since the baby shower.”

Marshall’s been doing nonstop press

for the book. “Talk fast,” she said on the phone Thursday. And as part of the rollout, she got a feature in the back of diller’s newsweek, the one with the “Muslim rage” headline, not exactly a great lead-in to her sweet and fuzzy story about her daughter Tracy.

“i have no control over [the cover],” she said. She was more upset over who didn’t show up to the Peggy Siegal Co. book release. “Cindy didn’t come,” she said of Cindy Williams, her former “Laverne & Shirley” costar. “no one’s in town.”

— ERIK MAZA

Pulling Heartstrings

Penny Marshall and Mariah Carey

Barbra Streisand, Ron Perelman and Catherine Zeta-Jones.

The Makeup ShowWiTh The emmy Awards and the requisite pre- and postshow parties this week, the celebrities and makeup artists at Wednesday’s dior Beauty luncheon benefiting operation Smile at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles had beauty and fashion on the brain. Padma Lakshmi arrived after a fitting.

“i have narrowed it down to two dresses,” she said. “one is a simple, white minimalist gown that i saw at a fashion show last week, and the other one is this ‘gone with the Wind’ confection.”

For all the emmy attendees, makeup artist Troy Jensen advised setting aside time to prep.

“emmy red carpets are sort of these actresses’ wedding days,” he said. “They are very important. We will get together a few days before to try different looks and colors.”

Krysten Ritter might not be the best candidate for makeup planning before an event. She declared she could only last in a makeup chair for 25 minutes.

“i hate maintenance,” she said. “i don’t pluck my eyebrows because it takes time. That’s why they grow together.” — RACHEL BRoWN

Katie Cassidy in Dior.

Lydia Hearst in Dior.

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COMMERCIALREAL ESTATE

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com.

(800) 423-3314, or email fpclassified@fairchildpub.com

Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS

Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

SHOWROOM TO SHAREHave showroom to share in 1407Bdwy. Brand New, Fully Furnished.

Call 213-798-9990

SALES PROFESSIONALConnected with major retail,

looking for opportunity.Call 215 292 9163

COMMERCIALREAL ESTATE