Artistic Quilter SD-16 Service Manual Service Manual… · The Artistic SD-16 utilizes high-tech electronics and an innovative touch-pad user interface to offer greater functionality

Artistic Quilter SD-16Service Manual

Page 2 Artistic Quilter SD-16 User Manual

Table of Contents

About the Artistic SD-16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

About This Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Service Manual Guidelines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

1 . General Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Assembly Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

3 . Preparing to Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Remove the Front Cover, C-Pod, and Power Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Reference Photos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Reassemble the Machine Following Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

4 . Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

5 . General Checks and Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Thread Mast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Hand Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Thread Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Top Tension Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Check and Secure Flats and Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Check and Adjust Axial Play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Check the Base-Plate Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Check Motor Drive/Timing Belt Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Adjusting the Hopping Foot Adapter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Adjusting the Presser Bar Height (Internal Adjustment) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Needle Position, Check, and Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

6 . Timing Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Loop Lift and Needle distance Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Adjusting the Needle Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Stop-Finger Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Adjusting the Needle Height with Cylinder Tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

ArtisticCreativeProducts.com Page 3

7 . Machine Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Power Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Indications of Speed/Needle Position Sensor Failure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Power Supply “Chirping” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

LED Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

LED Light Ring Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Round Tooth (RT) Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Single 48VDC Power Supply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Electrical Notes HQ Simply Sixteen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

8 . Artistic SD-16 Screens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56


1 . ABOUT THE ARTISTIC SD-16 The Artistic SD-16 utilizes high-tech electronics and an innovative touch-pad user interface to offer greater functionality and ease of operation to home quilters. The Artistic SD-16 quilting machine is a high-quality machine that incorporates robust design features and is easy to service .

The Artistic SD-16 machine is constructed following a specific sequence of operations, similar to the construction of a house. Walls cannot be erected until the foundation is in place. Similarly, this service manual has been written with an adjustment logic that is driven by the construction processes used to create the machine. If the service technician carefully follows the adjustment steps in the order presented, a fine running quilting machine is possible each and every time.

About This ManualThe purpose of this service manual is to help the technician complete a repair on a machine accurately and quickly . The manual is complete with photographs and explanations that we hope will aid you in your repair efforts. In addition to the teaching aids found herein, you will also find all of the tools listed that are necessary for adjustments. If you need help in locating these tools for purchase, please contact Artistic.

Notes, Important Notes, and CautionsNOTE: A NOTE indicates important information that helps you make better use of your Artistic product.

IMPORTANT: An IMPORTANT note provides information that is essential to properly using your Artistic product.

CAUTION: A CAUTION indicates a potential for causing harm to your quilting machine, the quilt, or to yourself .

Service Manual Guidelines• Only make the adjustments shown in the manual

if a setting deviates from the tolerance specified in the manual .

• Perform the adjustments only in the logical sequence shown and described in the manual . Do not jump ahead or start in the middle of the adjustment sequence as this may cause additional or more serious problems than the original issue .

• Consider safety when working on any machine . Safety warnings are included throughout this manual where appropriate, but these warnings do not address all possible safety concerns that might confront the service technician .

• When working on or near any live electrical assemblies, remove the power cable from the machine .

• We urge you to observe the cautions in the manual .

• Note that the hand wheel must always be turned in the direction of normal rotation unless otherwise instructed . This is especially true when making the loop-lift timing and needle-height adjustment (exceptions are when removing thread locks or testing belt tension. The hand wheel may be rocked forward and reverse in these cases.)


2 . GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS Sewing Opening Dimensions: 8.25 inches X 16 inches (245 mm X 610 mm)

Sewing Speed:• Manual Mode: from 25 stitches per minute to

1800 stitches per minute• Regulated Mode: from 0 stitches per minute to

full speed

Stitches Per Inch: 4 stitches per inch to 18 stitches per inch

Needle System: 134 (135 X 7)

Needle Sizes (recommended): From 80/12 to 125/20

Hook System: Rotary, Horizontal Axis, M-class bobbin

Bobbin Type: Aluminum, Class M

Bobbin Case: Type MF

Motor Type: Brushless DC

Needle Positioning: Up and down, walking stitch

Electrical Power: • US/Canada: 105 – 120 VAC, 47-63Hz, 600W peak• Rest of world*:100 – 250 VAC, 47-63Hz, 600W peak *Complies with international certifications

Sew Foot Stroke/Lift: 5 mm

Needle Bar Stroke: 35 .3 mm

Take-Up Stroke: 73 mm

Lubrication, main components: Kluber Lube, permanent

Lubrication of hook: Velocite 10, Texaco 22

Assembly Torque SpecificationsThe Torque Specifications apply to all internal and external fasteners in sizes 4.0, 5.0 and 6.0 mm in general at ISO 4762 Screw class 8.8. The torque specifications are also generally classified as soft-jointed and are listed according to size and placement in the machine .

1 . 4 mm Allen socket head cap screws, Class 8 .8 @ 2 .5 Nm (Uses 3 mm Allen tool)

•Head-frame, bearing retainers, front cover small

2 . 4 mm Allen set screw, class 8 .8 @ 1 .2 Nm (Uses 2.0 mm Allen tool)

• Tension assembly, three-hole thread guide, motor pulley, hook

3 . 5 mm Allen socket head cap screw class 8 .8@ 5 .6 Nm (Uses 4 mm Allen tool)

•Front cover large

•Belt tensioner

•Drive-train bracket

4. 5 mm Allen set screw, Class 8.8 @ 2.4 Nm (Uses 2.5 mm Allen tool)

•Main shaft timing pulley, hook-shaft timing pulley

•Main shaft timing collar, hook-shaft timing collar

5 . 6 mm Allen socket-head cap screws Class 8 .8 @ 9 .9 Nm. (Uses 5 mm Allen tool) An exception must be observed here since the screws are considered soft-jointed and shallow-threaded and are used externally. It is therefore advised that this torque specification not exceed 6 Nm .

•Base plates

6. 6 mm Allen set screw, Class 8.8@ 4.5 Nm (Uses a 3 mm Allen tool)

•Hand wheel


3 . PREPARING TO SERVICEElectrostatic Discharge (ESD) PrecautionsServicing the machine exposes the control electronics of the machine . Take care to avoid handling the open electronics as much as possible .

To minimize the risk of damage to the electronics due to ESD, we recommend that you use an electrostatic discharge mat and wrist strap .

To use an ESD-safe mat and wrist strap

1. Connect an ESD-safe mat to earth ground.

2. Place the machine on the ESD-safe mat.

3 . Place the wrist strap on your wrist and connect it to earth ground .

CAUTION: Ensure all insulative materials (plastics, paper, etc.) are at least one foot away from the work area .

CAUTION: Ensure circuit boards are either mounted to the machine, in their ESD-safe packaging, or placed directly on a properly grounded ESD-safe mat. Do not handle them until you are properly grounded with an ESD wrist strap.

If an ESD wrist strap is not available, you should constantly discharge your body to earth ground by touching a bare metal piece of the quilting machine, such as a thread guide at the top of the machine, the hopping foot, or take-up lever. Discharge repeatedly to the machine (every 20 to 30 seconds) while handling the circuit board .

An ESD kit can be purchased from local electronics stores .

Remove the Front CoverRemoving the front cover includes removing the front cover screws, the needle plate, the spool support, the take up lever guard and the power plate screws on the bottom of the machine.

To loosen the frame screws Tools: #1 Phillips driver, 3, 4 mm L hex wrench or handle driver

1 . Unplug the machine .

2 . Remove the two screws from the top of the take-up lever guard and remove the guard .


3 . Remove the three smaller screws near the right front of the machine (circled), near the top tension assembly, using the 3mm hex wrench .

4. Remove the three top and three bottom larger front cover screws, using the 4mm L hex wrench and hex handle driver .

Note: top left to bottom left clockwise screw sizes are: 30mm, 45mm, 60mm, 60mm, 60mm, 60mm.

To remove the needle plate

Tool: #3 flat screwdriver

1 . Loosen and remove the two screws in the needleplate (circled).

2 . Remove the needle plate .

Remove the spool support to prevent damage while working on the machine during servicing .

Tool: 3 mm hex handle driver

1. Loosen the two spool support screws, lift up on the spool support until the large part of the screws can slide out of the spool support (circled).


Loosen the screws with star washers on the powerplate so the machine can be opened .

Tool: 2 .5mm hex handle driver

1. Carefully lay the machine back casting down onto the table with the front casting up (top tension side up).

2 . Loosen the six power plate screws on the back and front casting (circled).

3 . Important: take care not to put stress on the wiring as the machine is opened and do not allow the front cover to fall over damaging wires, etc .

4. Prepare and use ESD precautions - see page 6.

5. While holding the front and back castings together, carefully stand the machine back up on its rubber feet .

6. Study the routing of the wires and the connections. It may be helpful to take some digital photos.

7. Slowly tip the front cover open at the top and remove the wires from the circuit boards by holding the connector, not the wires .

Important:1 . Once again, ensure that the machine is not plugged

in at this time for safety reasons.

2. Disconnect the yellow and black power supply wires from the motor driver as soon as you open up the frames to prevent any damage to the connector or board should the front frame cover fall over .

3 . Note that the yellow wire is on top of the connection and the black is on the bottom as shown .

4 . Carefully slide the front frame cover out away from the back frame and unplug the main power connection from the power supply on the power plate (circled). This is coming from the power line filter in the back frame. Remove wire tie or organizer as needed.


5. Disconnect the red and black wire (B) from the top of the A/Control Board. Remove wire tie or organizer as needed

6. Remove the encoder cable (D) motor driver cable (E) the front USB connection (F) and the lighting ring connection (I). This will allow the two frames and the power panel to be separated and the frames to be laid down upon the table .

Note: Both the front and back frames only havetwo rubber feet. They tend to tip over onceseparated from each other. It is best to lay themdown before they fall down, especially if theycables have not yet been disconnected.

A/Control Circuit Board Connection Reference A: A: Touch Screen / display to A/Control board

B: Power supply to A/Control board

C: A/Control board power to motor driver board

D: Encoder board to A/Control board

E: A/Control board to Motor driver board

F: Front USB accessory

G A/Control board to touch screen/display

H: Top tension to A/Control board

I: LED light ring

J: Speaker

B

FD

E

IBC

D

E

A

G

J

F

I

H


Reassemble the Machine Following Service

To reassemble the machine following serviceAfter the machine has been cleaned, oiled, and adjusted as much as it can be with the front cover off, replace the front cover. Reverse the disassembly process following the guidelines below:

1 . Route any removed or replaced cables through the cable clamps and organizers properly to ensure cables are not pinched when the machine frames are put back together .

2. Note: The main power cable (red and black wires) coming from the power supply to the A board/control board passes right by the machine timing/drive belt, it is critical that the wire organizer is used to keep this and other cables deep into the front casting away from the moving belt! CAUTION: Pinched cables may work for a while but will fail prematurely .

3 . Carefully stand up the frames, guiding the power panel into the back frame and then the front frame, taking care not to pinch any cables .

4 . With the power panel sandwiched between the two frames carefully lay them down onto the back side of the back frame. Double check for pinched cables .

5 . Important: Start all 6 bottom power panel screws with star washers and only slightly tighten them. These screws will not be fully tightened until after the two frames are fully tightened, so the power plate will not impede the proper tightening of the two frames together .

6 . Carefully stand the machine frames back upright .

7 . Start the three small front frame screws and the six large front frame screws and then stagger tighten the screws so the casting will tighten the frames together evenly .

The short part of the L-hex tool will be in the screw socket and the long part of the tool will be in the hand. Use the appropriate L-hex tool and tighten the screws until the screw no longer continues to tighten and the hex tool starts to flex to ensure the front cover is adequately tightened (3mm hex tool and 4mm hex tool).

NOTE: If the screws are too loose, the frame will not properly hold its adjustments . However, do not over tighten the screws or the tapped hole may strip out or the screw may break .

Once the nine frame screws are fully tightened, then fully tighten the six small screws on the bottom power panel .

Location of main shaft encoder disc and sensor (circled)


CAUTION: DANGER OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK! DANGEROUS VOLTAGES . CAUTION!

Do not plug in main power or run the quilting machine frames with the opened up so that any human body part could come in contact with electrical energy .

CAUTION: The C / control board is a static-sensitive parts and should not be handled without special ESD tools. (See Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) Precaution at the beginning of this section.) For this reason, all C /control boards are shipped in static preventative bags.

IMPORTANT: The plugs are labeled and keyed on the C/control circuit board.

CAUTION: When closing the frames, take care to route the cables inside the frames so they will not be damaged or pinched by the frames, the frame edges or other parts when the frames are tightened together.


4 . LUBRICATIONArtistic Quilter SD-16 Lubrication Specifications Rep Lube Kit Part# QM49262

Lubricant Type for Machine Components

1 . Kluber, Constant OY68 (Red) : All main bearings

2 . Kluber, Mikrozella G 8 OY (Blue): Main bearing reservoirs

3 . Kluber, GLY 2100 (Yellow): Take-up lever, articulating link and needle bar driver

4 . Kluber, NCA 15, Isoflex (Green): Take-up caged needle bearings

5 . Kluber, GLY 151, Polylub (Orange): Presser bar guide and plunger, lifting link and Pitman eccentric

6 . Conoco, Hydroclear R&O 32 (Purple)or similar white oil, i .e . Texaco 22, or Velocite 10: Hook race

Artistic Quilter SD-16 Lubrication Order Numbers

#1 Red OY 68: Replacement Lube: #1 Red: QM49301

#2 Blue Mikrozella G 8 OY: Replacement Lube: #2 Blue: QM49302

#3 Yellow GLY 2100: Replacement Lube: #3 Yellow: QM49303

#4 Green IsoFlex NCA-15: Replacement Lube: #4 Green: QM49304

#5 Orange GLY 151: Replacement Lube: #5 Orange: QM49305

#6 Purple Texaco 22, hook race only:Replacement Lube: #6 Purple: QM49306

All the above in box w/ booklet: Retailer Lube Kit Box: #1-#6 Kit QM49262

Artistic Quilter SD-16 Lubricating Schedule

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 should be lubricated every one to two years to ensure top mechanical performance . This is dependent upon the amount of use and the regular care of the machine .

Routine Oiling of the Hook Race

The quilter should apply one drop of oil from the oiler they received with their machine (Lube #6 [Purple]), to the raceway of the bobbin case with each bobbin change. After oiling the hook, it is recommended that the quilter sew on scrap material for a few seconds before resuming the quilting to ensure no oil stains the quilt .


Where to Lubricate the Artistic Quilter SD-16 .

Done every one to two years,depending on use. This excludes the hook race, which is lightly oiled witheach bobbin change .

1. After removing the front frame cover, lubricate with Lube #1 (Red) between the bearing and the shaft and with Lube #2 (Blue) between bearing outer diameter and the bearing support at the six places shown .

2 . Other places to oil: Oil in the following locations with the type of oil indicated.

#1 (Red) OY 68One drop on the side of the needle and presser bars . One drop on each bearing of the hopping foot (5 places)

#3 (Yellow) GLY 2100One drop per orifice, articulating link, take-up lever and needle bar driver (3 places)

#4 (Green) IsoFlex NCA-15Inside caged needle bearings (2 places)

#5 (Orange) GLY 151Add grease sparingly to the presser-bar slide and plunger . Add a small amount between the stylus and cams of both the presser-bar lifting link and the hopping-mechanism lifting arm. (4 places)

5

5

4

11

1

5 4

3

Orifice located a little behind the top radius .3

3

1 1

5

Two lower bearings not shown


5 . GENERAL CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTSArtistic Quilter SD-16 Components Front Side View

1 . Thread Mast 2 . Thread Guide A 3 . Three-Hole Thread Guide B 4 . Thread Guide C 5 . Top Thread Tension Assembly 6 . Stirrup Thread Guide E 7 . Take-Up Lever 8 . Thread Guide F 9 . Front Casing/Frame 10 . Hand Wheel

Check the thread guides for sharp edges or burrs that might damage the thread. This can be done by flossing each guide with thread in all directions to ensure against thread abrasion.

Figure 1

9

5

4

8

6

37

1

2

10


Check the following areas of the machine . Make adjustments as necessary to ensure trouble-free thread passage . This ensures proper thread tension, good stitch formation, and the best machine performance .

Thread MastSee Artistic Quilter Front Side View , item #1

CheckThe eyelet loops of the thread mast should be centered directly over the spool pins .

Hand WheelSee Artistic Quilter SD-16 Front Side View, item number 10 .

Check

Ensure there is a gap of 1 mm to 3 mm between the frame and the hand wheel (circled). The hand wheel should not rub against the machine cover, it should not be loose, and there should not be an extreme gap .

Adjust if necessary

Tool: 3 mm hex wrench1 . Remove the front frame cover .2 . Loosen the hand-wheel set screw .3. Position the hand wheel and tighten the set screw.

Thread Guides

See Artistic Quilter SD-16 Front Side View, item numbers 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 11 .

Check

Test the condition of the six thread guides and thread stirrup for any abrasions, cuts, cracks, or electroplating blistering. Test each guide by flossing it with thread, left to right and front to back in all directions, checking for any sharp defects that may damage or cut the thread .

Adjust if necessary

Tool: 2 mm and 2 .5 mm hex wrench• Replace any damaged parts .


Top Tension AssemblySee Artistic Quilter SD-16 Front Side View, item number 5.

Check #1

Check between the tension discs for any foreign material that could prevent the discs from functioning properly.

Feature Information: The tension assembly (Part Number QM59101), provides tension feedback to the display. The information is sent from the tension assembly to the C/control board and then on to the display. The tension connection consists of two part numbers, one for the tension assembly and another for the cable from the tension device to the C-/control board.

Feedback tension assembly: QM59101

Feedback tension cable: QM20207


To replace the take-up spring on the tension assembly

Important: note when replacing the take up spring, only pull the assembly out far enough to expose the set screw on the barrel so it can be loosened. If the wire tie is displaced, the take-up lever inside the machine can hit the cable and damage either the cable or the wired tension assembly

Remove the following parts from the assembly: knob,detent washer, the cone spring, spring base and twotension discs . .

NOTE: The detent washer is placed with the detents toward the knob .

1 . See important note above . 2 . Loosen the set screw under the wired tension

assembly on the front cover casting. Then pull the tension assembly out just far enough to loosen the set screw on the barrel so the center of the assembly can be removed .

3 . Loosen the set screw on the barrel, remove the center split bolt and then wiggle and push in on the tail of the spring until the take-up spring pops out of the barrel .

Take-up lever slot

Cover Set Screw

Loosening center bolt set screwCable routing


4 . Replace the damaged take-up spring with a new take up spring (QM10197). It is recommended to have a few of the take-up springs in stock .

5 . Reverse the process to reassemble the top tension assembly . Make sure the top tension assembly is pushed all the way into the front cover . Note the shoulder in the image below .

Take-up spring without split shaft

Shoulder

Pushing take-up spring


Five Checks When Replacing the Take-up Spring:1 . With the take up spring inside the barrel, reinstall

the center split bolt .

2 . Rotate the center split bolt clockwise to make the spring stronger or counterclockwise to make the spring weaker . To test: the spring should turn all the way to the right end of the slot, regardless of how lightly it is moved to the left. The spring should be just strong enough to always return clockwise to the end of the slot .

IMPORTANT: The strength of the spring is critical. If it is too weak or too strong, it will not take up the thread properly and this will cause stitching issues.

3 . With the spring strength set properly, ensure the center split bolt is pushed firmly all the way into the barrel and tighten the barrel set screw onto the center split bolt .

4 . Make sure the top tension assembly is pushed all the way into the shoulder on the front cover .

5. Rotate the entire tension assembly to set the straight part of the take-up spring up toward 12 o’clock when it is in its rest position, and then tighten the front cover set screw onto the tension assembly .

Ensure that the take-up spring straight piece is straight up towards 12 o’clock in its rest position.

Straightpiece


Check and Secure Flats and Screws

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 uses flats and special screws to help prevent loop lift timing from slipping, except at the hook. (If the hook cannot slip then a part will break when something goes wrong . The hook is designed to be adjusted without removing the front cover.)

Check #1

Check the Assembly Torque Specification chart in section 2, General Specifications, of this manual. Then check the following locations, making sure that the first screw of a timed component is firmly fixed on the respective flat on the shaft. If not, then tighten it.

Check #2: Pitman Crank

Adjust if necessary

Tool: #5 slotted screwdriver• Make sure the first screw has been fixed firmly on

the flat.

Check #3: Take-up Lever Driving Link

Adjust if necessary

Tool: 3 mm handle hex wrench• Make sure the first screw has been fixed firmly on

the flat.

IMPORTANT: The screws are generally positioned 120 degrees apart. When the first screw (Position 1) has been located and tightened on a flat, the second screw is then tightened, compounding the tightness of the first screw, thus securing and assuring that timing will not change.


First Screw, First Position Rule

The first screw or first position is always located 120° apart in the direction of rotation from the second screw, or second position. The first screw in direction of rotation goes on the flat.

The first screw in direction of motion goes on the flat. The first screw is 120º before the second screw. The second screw is then 240º before the first screw.

Check #4: Main Shaft Timing Pulley

Adjust if necessaryTool: 2 .5 mm handle hex wrench

• Make sure the first screw has been fixed firmly on the flat.

Check #5: Hook-Shaft Timing Pulley

Adjust if necessary

Tool: 2.5 mm handle hex wrench The hook-shaft timing pulley rotates the opposite direction as the main shaft timing pulley. Carefully note the labeled first screw.

The hook-shaft collar does not have a flat.The flat is located on the hook-shaft timing

Important Hook-Shaft NotesThe hook-shaft turns two times per stitch and rotates in the opposite direction from the main shaft Carefully note which screw is the first screw in the direction of motion and on the flat.

Position 1

Direction of rotation

Position 2

120°

First screw MainShaft TimingPulley on flat

Flat

First Screw

Hook-shaft Timing Pulley First Screw


Check # 6: Brass Counter Weight

This does not utilize the flat on the main shaft. Check and Adjust Axial Play Axial or end play on shafting can result in noise, wear and faulty sewing .

Check #1: Main Shaft

Check the main shaft by pushing and pulling on the hand wheel .

NOTE: A small amount of main shaft axial play is permissible. Too much main shaft play, however, may cause noise and or stitching issues.

Adjust if necessary

Tool: 2 .5 mm handle hex wrench

1 . Remove the machine’s front cover .

2 . Loosen the brass counterweight screws .

3 . Adjust so that there is minimal to no play .

4 . Provisionally set the screws .

5. Check that the shaft has minimal play and no tightness from the collar being too tight. Do this by rotating the shaft through a few 360° rotations. Readjust if necessary. 6. Fully tighten the screws on the brass counterweight .

7. Check the shaft again for play or tightness.

Check #2: Hook Shaft

Check the hook shaft by pushing and pulling the hook toward the rear and front of the machine .

NOTE: Any axial play from front to back on the hook shaft, affects the needle distance adjustment of the hook timing and will make it impossible to time the machine accurately .


Adjust if necessaryTool:

1 . Remove the front cover .

2. Remove the play by loosening the hook-shaft thrust collar (not the hook-shaft timing pulley) and adjusting out any axial play.

NOTE: There is no flat for the hook-shaft thrust collar.

3. Rotate the shaft through a few 360° rotations to ensure you have adjusted properly to remove the axial play .

The hook-shaft pulley is set to a specific setting from the end of the shaft to allow proper needle-to-hook distance adjustment. Adjust the collar (not the hook-shaft pulley) to remove axial play, or the setting can be thrown off, which may make it so the needle-to-hook distance cannot be adjusted .

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 utilizes long collars with two screws in line to help prevent the collar from tipping when tightened, causing variation of tightness or play, as the collar rotates 360º. To ensure that there is no tightness or play, the collar should be checked through a full rotation until it has minimal tightness and minimal play .

Levelling the machineCheckEnsure the machine does not rock on a flat planedsurface

NOTE: This test is performed on a precision surface plate at the factory during assembly .

Adjust if necessaryTool: #4 flat screwdriver

Thin shim washers or material may be used under the rubber foot to ensure the machine does not rock .

Important: check the screw heads to ensure they are under the rubber feet sufficiently that the screw head will not scratch a table surface if the machine is slid across it .

Collar Set Screws

Remove play here


Check Motor Drive/ Timing-Belt TensionThe Artistic Quilter SD-16 machine utilizes a single motor drive/round tooth timing belt system.

Check1 . Remove the front cover .

2 . Check the belt tension for tautness by pressing it with the index finger.

3. Press the vertical center of the belt with approximately 2 pounds of pressure . The belt should deflect about ½ inch.

NOTE: Proper belt tension provides for some belt flexibility under light finger pressure, but should not be so tight as to bind the machine.

4. Double-check the tension by rotating and rocking the hand wheel .

5. Confirm that there is no backlash or play between the belt teeth and any of the driven components .

6. Confirm also that there is an immediate transfer of motion to all components driven by the belt.

IMPORTANT: Do not over-tighten the belt as thiswill make the machine too tight and difficult toturn and may cause other undesirable issues .

Adjust if necessaryTool: 4 mm handle hex wrench

1. Insert a 4 mm handle hex wrench through the hole in the main frame casting.

2 . Loosen the socket-head belt tensioner screw .

3 . Adjust the belt tensioner by pressing down on the tensioner and while holding down on the tensioner, tightening the belt tensioner screw.

NOTE: This adjustment can only be made with the front cover off so the tensioner can be pressed down to set proper belt tension .

IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to set with the front cover on as improper belt tension will result .


IMPORTANT: Ensure that the special washer with step is down into the tensioner bracket slot and flat, nottilted, when tightened. This ensures the tensioner will not slip, resulting in a loose belt.

Adjusting the Hopping Foot Adapter

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 features a unique hopping mechanism, enabling the hopping foot to move (hop) up and down, and dwell on the fabric when the needle is in the fabric .

This enables fabric to move through the machine similar to a sewing machine with feed dogs . The dwell time provides a longer hesitation of the hopping foot on the fabric and completion of the stitch cycle. The results are better tension, less needle breakage, and increased hook life .

The factory default for the bottom of the presser bar, without a hopping foot or mount adapter, should be about 1 .5 inches above the needle plate when the needle is in the lowest position.

Check

With the hopping foot mount adapter screwed into the presser bar about 13 turns there will be about 6 exposed threads below the foot mount adapter jam nut . Check the number of exposed threads below the jam to confirm that it is close to this number. If it is not close to 6 exposed threads, this will alert you that someone has adjusted the adapter in or out . This may cause too much or too little tension on the internal presser bar spring .

IMPORTANT: If there is improper spring tension on the presser bar the result will be stitch problems, including skipped stitches.

IMPORTANT: Check and adjust this if necessary before resetting the presser bar height internally on screw C.


Adjust if necessaryTool: 8 mm open-end wrench

1. Attach the hopping foot to the foot mount adapter. This helps you align the foot to the needle it the final step.

2 . Loosen the jam nut with the 8mm open-end wrench .

3. Screw the mount adapter in or out until there a re about six exposed threads below the jam nut when tightened.

4. While holding the foot firmly, tighten the jam nut while making sure the hopping foot ring is centered on the needle .

Adjusting the Presser Bar Height (Internal Adjustment)Tools: 3 mm handle hex wrench, 0 . 5 mm feeler gauge

Check

When the needle bar is in its lowest position, the sewing foot should be no higher than 0 .5 mm above the needle plate. It is permissible for the hopping foot ring to lightly touch the needle plate .

IMPORTANT: Check this before resetting the presser bar height in case the machine owner haschanged the foot height . Having the presser bar height and foot at the wrong height can causestitch problems, including skipped stitches.

Adjust if necessaryTool: 3 mm hex wrench, 0 .5 mm feeler gauge

1. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar is at its lowest position.

2. Place the 0.5 mm feeler gauge (part # QM40133) under the hopping foot with the machined edge up .

3 . Loosen screw C through the machine front cover

4 . Wiggle the presser bar up or down to the desired position.

0 .5 mm feeler gauge

Screw C access hole


5 . Tighten screw C by pushing down lightly on the tool blade towards the table while tightening. This ensures that the hopping-block mechanism contacts the appropriate lifting lever and eccentric.

6. Confirm the ring of the foot is centered on the needle when the screw is tightened.

Needle Position, Check, and AdjustmentThe needle position adjustment is the most important of all adjustments in the machine. Needle position provides the foundation for which all other settings are made .

After the needle position has been completed, great care must be maintained to keep this setting. It is important that the sewing machine be transported carefully, to avoid bumping or dropping .

CheckTools: 2 mm and 3 mm handle Allen

1. Use a new system 134/size 100 needle.

2. Check the needle for straightness on a flat surface such as the needle plate .

3. Insert the needle into the needle bar and make sure it is centered in the stitch hole of the needle plate .

NOTE: Do this check with needle eye flush with the needle plate; do not check with needle in the lowest position.

4. Add (screw to screw) after making the adjustment for Y-axis (screw to screw).

Screw C

Shown with front cover off


Adjust if necessaryIMPORTANT: The first adjustment to the Y-axis is done with the cover off.

Y-axis adjustment

1. If the cover is on, remove it.

2. Loosen first screws D and G.

3 . Loosen screws A and B .

4 . While pushing the head frame back into the main casting, gently slide the head frame left or right to correct as necessary .

5 . Tighten screws A and B .

NOTE: If needle position changes, repeat the process, but without tightening screws D or G again.

X-axis adjustment

NOTE: This adjustment is done with the front frame cover on .

The primary adjustment is accomplished using the right side of the head frame shown . Loosen the screws on the left side to allow movement of the head frame .

1 . Loosen screws F, G and H through access holes two or three turns .

2. Loosen screws D and E two or three turns; then back off screw C a little.

3 . Push the head frame back against the main frame so that screw C touches the main frame . Adjust screw C to bring the needle to center in the needle plate .

4. Gently tighten screw E until it lightly touches the main frame .

5. Tighten screw D.

NOTE: If the needle changes, repeat the process.

6. Repeat the process on the left side of the head frame .

NOTE: If the needle changes, repeat the process.

NOTE: The picture shows the cover off for illustration purposes only .

A

DG

B

X-axis access holes

F

H

G DC

E


6 . TIMING ADJUSTMENTSIMPORTANT: These timing adjustments should only be performed after you have completed all of the checks and adjustments in section 5, General Checks and Adjustments .

Visual Timing CheckBefore proceeding with the timing adjustments:

1. Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged before starting to work on the machine. (Remove the cord at back of machine.)

2 . Make sure the needle is the correct needle system (system 134), is a size 100, and is tested for straightness .

3. Install the needle, ensuring that the eye is straight out to the front of the machine and the end of the needle (butt) is touching the top of the needle stop/sight hole in the needle clamp above the needle clamp screw .

4. With the needle bar in the lowest position check for needle bar play .

5 . With the needle point lowered into the needle plate check needle position – it should be relatively centered but does not have to be perfectly centered .

6. Check the hook shaft for excessive play.

7 . Check the needle plate for needle impact marks and damage .

8. Put the needle at its bottom dead center (BDC), or its lowest position. The hook point should look like this:

9. Slightly turn the hand wheel in the direction of motion to raise the needle bar 2.2 mm. The hook point should reach the far edge of the needle . This shows the loop lift

10 . The hook point should be lightly brushing or touching the needle inside the scarf . This is the needle distance .

NOTE: In this case, there is a gap between the hook point and the needle scarf . The hook point should lightly touch the inside of the needle scarf .


11 . When the hook point reaches the far edge of the needle, the hook point should look like this relative to the needle eye. This is the needle bar height .

There should be 1 mm from the bottom of the hook point to the top of the eye .

If steps 8 through 11 above all look good, then the timing is probably set properly and may not need to be adjusted .

CAUTION: If you adjust machine timing when it isn’t necessary, it will usually make things worse instead of better.

If timing does not appear to be out but the machine has sewing issues, the cause is probably something else . For example improper machine threading or tension settings can cause significant stitching issues.

IMPORTANT: It is possible, by misadjusting the machine, to get the hook point and needle eye to look correct without turning the hand wheel to raise the needle 2 .2 mm . However, in this case the hook will attempt to pick up the loop before it is formed. Without a loop the machine cannot make a stitch. “No loop – no stitch.”

If all of the general check and adjustments have been performed and you have determined that the timing needs adjustment, then proceed with the timing adjustments.

For a machine to be properly timed, three primary settings must be set correctly:

1 . Loop lift: the radial position of hook to needle. When properly timed, the hook point passes by the needle at the correct time and in the proper position. This is the setting that most people refer to when they talk about timing.

2 . Needle distance: the distance between the hook point and the needle scarf. When properly timed, the hook slightly brushes the inside of the needle scarf. This compensates for the needle being flexed by the quilt fabric during the stitch cycle and helps to eliminate skipped stitches and shredded thread.

3 . Needle height: the vertical position of the needle eye when the hook passes the eye . Normally needle height does not slip. If the setting is off it is usually due to someone changing it and throwing it off. Even if the needle hits a ruler or the needle plate, it rarely slips because the needle will break before the needle height timing slips.


Loop Lift and Needle Distance Adjustment

Loop Lift is a universal hook and timing term for all lock-stitch sewing machines. When the needle lifts a specified distance from BDC (bottom dead center), the hook point is set to coincide with the needle. This radial position of the hook is called Loop Lift, commonly referred to as timing. Another part of timing is the Needle Distance. This is the axial distance from the hook point to the needle. Loop lift is the radial setting of the hook and needle distance is the axial setting of the hook. Both of these are set on the hook and fixed with the same set screws. Since two adjustments are set at the same time, this can be a little difficult until practiced.

Check

Tools: Loop lift clamp part #QM40199, 2.2 mm forked feeler gauge part #QM40136, 2 mm ball end L-hex wrench, 2 mm handle hex wrench, and a #3 flat screwdriver

NOTE: The loop lift clamp must have a plastic protective compression pad to avoid damaging the coating on the needle bar.

IMPORTANT: The timing and needle distance adjustment must be done with the front machine cover on .

1 . Remove the needle plate .

2. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar is at its lowest position or BDC.

3. Place the loop lift clamp (with special protective compression pad) on the needle bar and set the thumbscrew lightly .

4 . Place the 2 .2 mm feeler gauge between the clamp and the bottom of the head frame bearing surface.

5. Raise, reset and tighten the clamp, pinching the 2.2 feeler gauge in between the clamp and projected bearing . This step may need to be repeated a few times to remove all excess play between the clamp and gauge .

6. Remove the 2.2 feeler gauge (first image at right).

7. Rotate the hand wheel in the direction of motion, until the clamp lightly touches the gauging surface. (second image at right).

IMPORTANT: If the hand wheel is turned too hard, the clamp may move, making the check invalid .


8. Check the position of the hook point relative to the needle .

9 . Check the distance between the needle and the hook point .

IMPORTANT: The hook point should lightly touch, or brush, the needle inside the needle scarf . Too much needle distance or improper loop lift settings may cause shredding and skipped stitches. Too little distance will cause the needle to bend during sewing and cause other issues .

Adjust if necessary

If correction of loop lift or needle distance is necessary, then the bobbin-case basket must first be rotated down .

NOTE: With the bobbin case basket in the normal position, the basket needle guard may deflect the needle and makes it difficult to accurately adjust the needle distance between the hook point and the back of the needle scarf. It is important that the basket needle guard be rotated down out of the way to allow correct adjustment of the needle distance setting.

Stop-finger engaged with bobbin case installed

Stop-finger engaged without bobbin case


To rotate the bobbin-case basket1. Loosen the stop-finger screw with the 2.5 mm

handle hex tool .

2. Slide the stop-finger out of the basket groove, until the basket can be rotated . You may need to remove the stop-finger. In this case, don’t worry about reinstalling it until after you are finished with the timing adjustments.

3. Snug the stop-finger screw.

4. Rotate the basket 180 degrees until large cutout is up towards needle as shown at the right . You will now need to hold the basket in that position.

IMPORTANT: After moving the stop finger, you need to hold the basket in place when turning the hand wheel, to prevent the needle from hitting the basket.

5. Adjust needle distance (and loop lift) as directed in the next section.

If needle distance adjustment is necessary

Tool: 2 mm handle hex wrench NOTE: If needle height is not first set roughly close, it will not be possible to set needle distance correctly .

1. If the clamp is still in place, remove it now.

2 . Rotate the basket down in order to properly set the needle distance . See To rotate the bobbin-case basket above .

3 . Hold the basket down while turning the hand wheel to prevent it from turning and colliding with the needle .

4 . Loosen the two screws on the hook base .

NOTE: Some hooks are tighter than others on the hook-shaft. You may be tempted to pry on the hook mechanism. If you pry on the hook it may become damaged, irreparable and unusable .

Basket rotated 180 degrees down, for needle distance adjustment

Loop lift and needle height both set correctly

Hook Screws


5 . Replace the clamp and reset with the 2 .2 feeler gauge. See step 4 under the Check for Loop Lift an Needle Distance, making sure to turn the hand wheel in the direction of motion.

6. Set the hook to the correct positions by sliding the hook axially (needle distance) on its shaft, as well as radially (loop lift), setting the hook point relative to the needle .

7 . Adjust the needle distance by sliding the hook axially toward the needle until the hook barely touches, or lightly brushes, inside the needle scarf .

NOTE: It is better for the needle to barely touch than be too far away from the hook . Too much needle distance may cause skipped stitches and other stitching problems. Too little distance may cause noise and/or hook (needle guard) wear.

8. Lightly tighten the first screw with the 2 mm ball end L hex tool, while providing resistance against the adjustment, by holding the hook in place with your other hand . Carefully rotate the hook on the hook-shaft to set the loop lift. Carefully snug and then tighten the first screw.

9 . Remove the clamp .

10. While holding the basket in the down position and from turning, rotate the hand wheel until the second hook screw is accessible . Carefully snug, then tighten the second screw. If you push on the tool while tightening, the hook may move, throwing the settings off.

11. Tighten both screws tight with the 2 mm handle hex tool .

12. Reset the loop lift clamp and gauge again to check that loop lift and needle distance are still correct.

IMPORTANT: If loop lift, needle distance and needle height are not adjusted accurately, the machine may skip stitches, shred thread or not sew.

Loop lift and needle height both set correctly

Hook screws without front cover


Adjusting the Needle Height

Tool required: #3 Flat/Fillister screwdriver

NOTE: This adjustment must be completed with the front frame cover on .

Check

The needle height must be set so that when viewed from behind with the hook point flush with the right side of the needle, the bottom of the hook point should be 1 .0 mm above the top of the needle eye .

If needle height adjustment is necessary

1. Lower the needle bar to its lowest position.

2. Insert a screwdriver through the access hole.

3 . Hold the needle bar with your other hand to provide resistance against the adjustment, so the needle bar will not fall down out of the driver .

4 . Loosen the screw slightly so that the needle bar can be wiggled up or down to the correct position.

1 .0 mm

Access Hole


5 . Ensure that the needle-bar thread guide is straight toward the front of the machine (the position where the user stands to use the front handle bar).

6 . Slightly loosen the needle bar driver screw while holding the needle bar with the other hand . Rotate radially until the hole is at the front and tighten the driver screw firmly.

CAUTION: Under no circumstance should the needle bar clamp screw be completely loosened . Failure to observe this caution can result in the uncoupling of the needle bar from the needle bar driver. If this happens, do not run the machine . Remove the front frame cover, reassemble the needle bar to the needle bar driver and readjust .

Needle-bar thread guide to the front

Front cover off to illustrate the needle bar driver screw .


Stop-Finger AdjustmentTool required: 2 .5 mm handle hex tool

Check

The engagement of the stop-finger and throat of the bobbin case support basket must have a clearance of 0 .8 mm to 1 .0 mm . This clearance ensures that adequate space exists for thread escapement during the sewing process .

NOTE: If set with too much needle clearance, the basket will be noisy and can also more easily slip out of adjustment. If set too tight, the thread will get stuck around the stop-finger and may jam the machine .

If an adjustment is necessary

1. Loosen screw A and adjust the stop-finger so the proper clearance is achieved as shown below .

IMPORTANT: Ensure that the stop-finger stays up tight against the machined edge at the left of the stop-finger as shown.

NOTE: The machined edge helps support the stop-finger from twisting to the side, allowing the basket to spin out of position, be hit by the needle and damaged .

2 . Tighten screw A .

Shown from underside, looking upShown from underside, looking up

Screw A

Machine Edge


Adjusting the Needle Height with Cylinder ToolTools required: Fillister screwdriver, #3 x 150 mm in length, needle-height cylinder tool .

Check

1. Turn the hand wheel in the direction of motion until the hook point becomes even with the right side of the needle .

2 . The hook point should be 1 .0 mm above the needle eye. If the height of the needle appears to be out of adjustment, install the loop lift clamp and 2.2 mm feeler gauge as shown in the adjustment of loop lift and needle distance sections.

3. Check loop lift.

4. If the machine requires a loop lift adjustment, remove the stop-finger and hook body from the machine . Then follow the steps below using the Needle Height Cylinder tool .

To adjust the needle height with the cylinder tool

NOTE: This adjustment can be completed with the front cover on or off.

IMPORTANT: The height of the needle must be set from the front side of the machine as shown . When the needle bar is at its lowest position, the eye of the needle must align exactly to the groove as shown at the right .

1. Install the cylinder tool with the flat side up.

Provided for reference

Stop-finger cutout


2. Rotate the cylinder tool so that the flat side is down .

3. Bring the needle to the lowest point by rotating the hand wheel

4 . Slide the cylinder tool gently against the needle .

5 . Sight through the needle eye and compare the upper and lower levels of the eye with the cylinder tool groove. If an adjustment is necessary, loosen the needle bar driving clamp slightly and raise or lower the needle bar .

6. Reinstall the hook and set loop lift at 2.2 mm and reset needle distance. (For more information, see Loop Lift and Needle Distance Adjustment earlier in this section.)


7 . MACHINE ELECTRONICSIndications of Speed/Needle Position Sensor

The main shaft speed and needle position sensor mounts to the main shaft near the back hand wheel. It comprises a disk with two encoder regions. The outermost region consists of 100 small segments to provide speed feedback to the control system . The inner region consists of only two segments: an on region and an off region .

There is a forked circuit board containing an emitter and a receiver for each of the two encoder regions . With the front cover open and the power and control pods hooked up and powered on, you can rotate the hand wheel and see the green LEDs flash to indicate that the encoder is working properly .

The green Speed LED on the left side of the board should flash on and off at a rate of 100 flashes per revolution as you rotate the hand wheel. The green Needle LED on the right should turn on to indicate the needle is in the Up position (the take-up lever is in its highest position) and turn off to indicate the needle is in the Down position.

Careful inspection of these LEDs as you rotate the hand wheel with the power on will tell you whether the encoder is functioning properly. Damage to the encoder disk or any build-up of dust, oil or other material can impede the transfer of light through the transparent portion of the disk and cause the encoder to miss some pulses .

Needle Up

Needle Down


Power Supply

One 48V DC power supply is mounted on the bottom power plate. This power supply provides 48V DC to the motor .

Symptoms of a failed power supply If the 48V power supply fails, there will be no power to the machine (no power to the display, no lights, no power to the C-pod, etc.) However, there are other causes for this symptom. Before changing the power supply, confirm the following:

1 . The wall outlet is providing power .

2. The machine power cord is plugged firmly into the wall outlet and into the back of the machine and providing power .

3. The machine main power switch is on (in the I position).

4. The cable, power switch (jumper) is installed firmly to the top of the power supply .

5 . The the fuse in the power inlet is not blown . Soldered to the back of the P-pod board . • Replace the P-pod if a fuse is blown .


Indications of Speed/Needle Position Sensor Failure

1 . A message on the display indicates a Needle Sense Failure .

a. Make sure the Speed/Needle Sense cable is properly connected in the C-pod .

b. With the C-pod open and all cables attached, power up the machine and verify that the green LED D4 Needle turns on and off to indicate Needle Up and Down positions as you rotate the hand wheel. (D4 works the same way as the Needle LED that is mounted to the internal Needle/Speed Sensor board.)

c. If the LED does not turn on or off properly, open the front cover and determine whether the encoder disk has been damaged or is dirty, and make sure the sensor board is positioned properly as shown for step 4 on the previous page .

2. When running the machine, the motor attains full speed prior to reaching 100% on the display .

a. This can be caused by the Speed/Needle sensor missing some of the speed pulses . First run the Speed test from the Diagnostics menu on the display. (For more information refer to the Diagnostics Tests section in the user manual). If the displayed value does not settle on 100 after pressing the foot pedal down all the way, there may be an issue with the motor-speed encoder .

b . Remove the C-pod and double-check the Speed LED (D6) on the circuit board. It should flash on/off 100 times per revolution.

c . Open the front cover and verify that the sensor is in the correct position and that the disk is not dirty or damaged .

d. If the disk appears to be in good condition, slowly rotate the hand wheel with power on and all cables connected while watching the Speed LED. It should turn on and off with each of the 100 segments of the outer encoder disk . If some segments fail to cause the LED to turn on or off, the sensor board may need to be adjusted or replaced .


Power Supply “Chirping”

A repeating “chirp” coming from the quilting machine may indicate a power supply that is shorting out or being overloaded . The power supply is designed in a way that if there is a short or if the power draw is too extensive, it will shut itself down . This may result in an audible “chirp.” It will then try to power back up. However, if the short or power draw is still there, it will shut down again. This process continually repeats as long as the power switch is on, resulting in a repeating “chirp” sound.

1. The yellow/black cable that delivers 48V from the top of the control board to the motor driver board may have the wires inverted where it plugs into the motor driver board . These wires can be removed individually from the terminal block, so make sure when they are put back in place, the red wire is at the top .

2. Any other pinching or damage to the red/black wires that deliver power to or from the top of the control board .

LED Identification

When you first power on the AQSD-16, each of the LEDs in the Control Pod LED bank will briefly flash in succession. Following that initial flash, the LED (labeled HrtBt) should flash in a “heart beat” fashion to indicate that the processor is running and is not locked up. If the processor is locked up, these LEDs will be locked in either an On or an Off state .

A description of each of the 8 LEDs and its function is listed on the right

• D3 HrtBt: Flashing in a “heartbeat” fashion indicates the processor is running .

• D6 Speed: Flashes 100 times per revolution of the hand wheel .

• D5 Option: Not used currently.

• D4 Needle: Should be Off when the take-up lever is all the way in the Up position. Should be On when the take-up lever is down or anytime it is not fully in the Up position.

• D10 Test 4: Should flash rapidly when communication with the display is established.

• D9 Test 3: Currently not in use.

• D8 Test 2: Indicates the current Needle Stop setting (Off indicates Down and On indicates Up).

• D7 Test 1: Turns on when the Start button is pressed, indicating that the motor should be running (Go LED.)


A/Control Board Power LEDs

Near the top of the A/Control board are two green LEDs. The control board receives an input of +48V from the power supply and converts this voltage into two different voltage levels. The left LED (closest to the +18Vdc label) indicates that the 18V power is functioning and the right LED (closest to the +5Vdc label) indicates that the 5V power is functioning.

If either of these LEDs is not on, first disconnect all cables from the A/Control board except the power cable at the top (only plug in the black and red cable). If the LED(s) are still not on, then there may be an issue with the power supply. If the LEDs both begin working again, this may indicate that one of the peripherals is shorting out the A/Control board.

Begin plugging the cables back in one at a time (powering off between the connection of each cable) until you find the cable that is causing the issue. If it is a display cable, then the issue could be the internal cable for the display or the display itself . You could then try plugging that cable back in with the display disconnected to verify whether it is the cable or the display. If it is one of the other cables, then the problem may be related to that particular component (needle/speed encoder or motor driver).

However, if both LEDs are off, check to make sure the black power cord is plugged in and the power switch is ON . A volt meter may be used to verify that there is 48V DC between the red and black power lines (J16) . If you do not have 48V, then the power supply and attached cables should be inspected for any short circuits or wires breaking away from connectors on the power supply. If the volt meter indicates that the 48V is present at A/Control board power connector and the A/Control board power LEDs are off, then the A/Control board should be replaced.

Display CommunicationsDisplay Connection Path and Possible Causes The display circuit board is connected to the display with an internal USB cable to the A/Control board. The display, each end of the of the internal connection cable, and the A/Control board each could be the source of communications problems. To trouble shoot, first start at the easiest and most obvious possible causes and work towards the more complicated and less obvious last .

Possible Solutions

• Try rebooting the Artistic Quilter SD-16 to see if the problem is corrected .

• If not, verify that the cable connecting the display to the A/Control board is connected properly at each end and has not been damaged .

• Check the internal USB connection cable from the front of the machine to the A/Control board for damage and proper connections at both ends. This USB connection is for optional accessories but could cause problems to the A/Control board if shorted out .


FusesThere is a fuse in the machine power input block . Fuse is 2 .5 A slow blow # QM21832

LED Light Ring Information

The LED cable runs from the light ring to the C/control board. The light ring connection comprises three part numbers: the circuit board, the cover, and the cable .

LED light ring circuit board (16) (shown in the cover): QM20440

LED Light Ring Cover (16) (shown with circuit board installed with receptacle): QM10146


Cable routing

Connect to C-Pod

Connect to Light Ring


Round Tooth Belt (RT)

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 drive train assembly uses a round tooth belt system. Round tooth (RT) pulleys are used to match the round tooth belt and a flat (no teeth) belt tensioner pulley for belt tensioning.

The drive train assembly with RT belt requires the following parts:

• RT Belt QM11416

• RT Motor Pulley QM11413

• RT Idler Pulleys (2) QM11414

• Belt Tensioner with flat Pulley QM11415

• RT Hook Shaft Pulley QM11412

• RT Main Shaft Pulley QM11411

Single 48VDC Power Supply

The Artistic Quilter SD-16 machine has one 48VDC power supply . The power supply is mounted tot the bottom power plate on the machine . The power supply also has remote capability so the machine can be powered off and on from a switch on machines with front handlebars . However, the Artistic Quilter does not have handlebars so it does not have a front power switch, therefore it requires the permanent use of the QM20204 jumper to bypass this remote power feature . The following parts are required: #QM20201, 48VDC power supply with remote capability, #QM20204 Power switch cable (Jumper), and # QM21624, C/control board. The other two cables are the power supply to C/control board # QM20015 (red and black wires)and the # QM22007, C/control board power out to the motor driver board (yellow and black wires).

C-pod for HQ Simply Sixteen (QM29745)Control board (QM21623)


Power Switch Cable (Jumper): QM20204

48VDC power supply with remote switching capability: QM20201

Cable from C/control board to motor driver board: QM22007 - yellow and black cable

Cable from power supply to top (Red/Black) connection on C/control board: QM20015.

Jumper installed for testing, burn-in and normal operation (always installed)

Connect to power supply Connects to C-Pod


Feature: Low-Bobbin Estimator and Alarm

Feature: Basting Stitch

Feature: Handi Feet Mount

The Handi Feet Mount is screwed into the presser bar 13 turns, leaving six or seven threads exposed below the jam nut .

Electrical Notes Artistic Quilter SD-16

The following will be seen if the machine is in good operational order:

• Test 1 LED goes on when one presses on the foot pedal and goes off when the foot pedal is released. This is the “Go” LED.

• Test 2 LED Is the Stitch Regulation LED (optional Tru Stitch accessory) It may not come on the first time if the machine is already in Regulation mode. In this case the LED will come on once the machine has gone from regulation mode to manual mode and then back to regulation mode. Once it is on it will remain on until the machine is turned off.

• Test 3 LED and Test 4 LED (Transmit and Receive) LEDs flash rapidly when the front display is connected. They go off when the front display is disconnected and the A/control board will then make three beeps indicating the machine has no control attached at the machine’s front display connection.

• Needle LED is off from when the take-up lever is up until the needle is down (BDC). The LED is on from when the needle is down (BDC) until the take-up lever is up .

• Option LED turns on when the Tru Stitch Receiver (optional accessory) is plugged into the A/Control board and on . Once it is on it will remain on until the machine is turned off.

• HRTBT LED does a heartbeat flash when the processor is working .

• Speed LED flashes on the A/Control board and on the main shaft encoder board when the hand wheel is it flashes 100 times per revolution of the hand wheel. If the machine is powered on, the front display and cA/control board beep once as the foot pedal is unplugged from the C-pod .

• If the Tru Stitch is plugged in and turned on and the transmitter is turned off the machine beeps when the foot pedal is pressed until it is released.

What does 18VDC do?

• 18VDC LED light ring for HQ Sweet Sixteen

• 18VDC drives signal to motor driver (motor speed control)

What does 5VDC do?

• 5VDC practically does everything else, but see below for some specifics

• 5VDC drives the main A/Control board processor

• 5VDC powers the Easy Set Tension

• 5VDC powers the front display


The following is the normal LED response on the A/Control board with the side touch screen/display disconnected from the A/Control board:


• Test 1 LED: is off (until foot control is pressed, then the LED will go on momentarily, but the machine will not run) Note: if the Tru Stitch is connected and the receiver and controller are both turned on Test LED 1 also comes on momentarily, but the machine will not run .

• Test 2 LED: is off (because display is not connected or communicating and there is no optional Tru Stitch connected)

• Test LED3 and Test LED4: Are both off (because there is no communication to the unplugged front display

• Needle LED: Goes on and off as the hand wheel is rotated (on from needle lowest position until the needle is up and the take-up lever is at its highest position; and off from when the take-up lever is just past its highest position, until then needle is down to its lowest position). Note: this is opposite the beep during needle sensor test in diagnostics!

• Option LED: off

• HRTBT LED: Heartbeat LED flashed like a heart beat

• SPEED LED: Flashes rapidly when the hand wheel is rotated slowly .

• 18VDC LED: Is lit constantly


NOTE: A/Control board beeps three times at regular intervals (about 5 seconds apart), because there is no touch panel/display attached to the machine to communicate with the A/Control board.

With the touch panel/ display plugged into the side of the machine the differences are:

• Test 1 LED: goes on when foot pedal pressed and off when released .

• Test 2 LED: goes on when an optional TruStitch accessory is connected, receiver and controller both turned on and communicating properly)

• Test LED3 and Test LED4: Flashes rapidly, indicating transmit and receive communications to the front display .

• Needle LED: Same

• Option LED: Goes on when optional TruStitch accessory is plugged in and communicating properly .

• HRTBT LED: Same

• Speed LED: Same



NOTE: The A/Control board does not have three beeps any longer, because the front display is connected and communicating properly with the A/Control board .


8 . ARTISTIC QUILTER SD-16 SCREENS The More Screen Option

Left-side options, top to bottom: Low Bobbin, Options, System Information, Language (English, French, German, Spanish)

Right-side options, top to bottom: Timers, Calculator, Diagnostics


Diagnostics Option

To open the Diagnostics screen, select Diagnostics from the More screen .

Left-side options, top to bottom: Motor, Needle, Tension

Right-side options, top to bottom: Speed , Foot Pedal

Motor Sensor Test

When to use the Motor Sensor Test

The system has power, but the motor is not running or is running erratically.

How to use the Motor Sensor Test

Rotate the hand wheel . You should hear a regular beep pulsing on and off as you rotate the hand wheel . These pulses are based on feedback from the Hall Sensors that are internal to the motor. If you do not hear the pulsing on/off as you rotate, this could indicate any of the following:

The motor is not receiving power

• Check power wires going to the motor driver board as well as wires going out to the motor to be sure the wires are properly connected (check that the terminal screws are pinching the wire and not the wire insulation). If the driver board is receiving power, you should see a green power LED lit up on the motor driver board.

The Hall Sensor wires are not properly connected

• Check the thinner wires going from the motor driver board to the motor and be sure they are all properly connected in the terminal block . As you rotate the hand-wheel, you should see a green LED on the motor driver board pulse on/off at the same rate as you hear the beep in this test .

The motor driver board has failed

• If you can verify that you have power properly connected to the motor driver board and you can measure 48V at the power connector, but neither the Power nor Hall sensor LEDs light up on the motor driver board .

• Testing with a replacement motor driver board causes the motor to function properly (be sure the driver board has been properly calibrated at the factory for the specific machine model it is being used on and burn-in is run to properly calibrate speeds).

The motor has failed

• The green 48V power LED is lit on the motor driver board

• All wires are properly connected (check for insulation being pinched in terminals)

• Rotating the hand wheel does not cause the Hall Sensor LED on the motor driver board to flash

• Replacing the motor resolves the problem (be sure all wires are properly placed in terminals)


Needle Sensor Test

This message appears when the machine is trying to position the needle, but the machine is going too slow or too fast . This can occur when a board is changed or the dynamics of the machine have changed . Running burnin will usually correct this . If the main shaft encoder is defective, the machine might not run burn-in because the main shaft encoder is not detecting the 100 pulses per revolution of the encoder disc. The Speed LED on the left side of the main shaft encoder should flash on and off when the hand wheel is turned. If it does not flash at all and does not change when the small pot is adjusted, try a new main shaft encoder.

When to use the Needle Sensor Test

This tests the optical sensor associated with the inner region of the main shaft encoder.

Use to verify Needle Up and Needle Down stopping positions and when the Needle Sensor Failure message occurs .

How to use the Needle Sensor Test

As you rotate the hand wheel, you should hear a solid tone start when the needle is in the UP position and then stop when it reaches the down position.

• Adjust rotation of main shaft encoder disc as needed to be sure Needle Up stop position occurs when the take-up lever is at its highest point).

• If Needle Sensor Test passes but you are still getting a Needle Sensor Failure message, then run the burn-in calibration to try to resolve the error.

Other causes of a Failed Needle Sensor Test

• Main Shaft Encoder Cable is unplugged from the Control Board or the Encoder Board

• Main Shaft Encoder Cable is damaged

• Main Shaft Encoder Board is damaged

• NOTE: For any of the above three issues, with the machine opened up, the Needle LED on the right side of the Main Shaft Encoder Board should turn ON to indicate the UP position and OFF to indicate the DOWN position. If the LEDs do not turn on at all, this is a good sign that the Main Shaft Encoder board or cable have failed and should be replaced . The cable and board are typically replaced together .


Calibrate Tension

When to Calibrate Tension

This is a calibration procedure that should only be used if the Easy-Set tensioner has been disassembled or replaced or if rotating the tension knob does not result in the tension numbers increasing or decreasing as they should on the display .

How to Calibrate Tension

Follow the on-screen instructions for proper calibration.

Motor Speed Sensor Test

When to Run the Motor Speed Sensor Test

This tests the outer region of the main shaft encoder sensor .

• Validates that all 100 counts of the main shaft encoder are being read .

• Should be tested if a Needle Sensor Failure message occurs and running the Burn-in Calibration procedure does not resolve the issue .

How to use the Motor Speed Sensor Test

If the result of this test is anything other than 100 counts (but not zero), the following should be checked:

• Check the encoder disc closely for any damage or wear to any of the black lines . Replace the encoder disc if any damage is found .

• Position the forked main shaft encoder board such that it is centered with the encoder disc and is up as high as possible without interfering with the disc . The disc should not touch any part of the encoder board at any point during the rotation of the main shaft.

• If the encoder board is in the position stated above, but the test number is still less than 100 (but not zero), try shifting the board more to the right so the encoder disc is closer to the sensors on the left side of the forked board (still not touching).

• If this still does not produce a result of 100, use a tiny screwdriver to adjust the tiny potentiometer near the bottom of the board just a few degrees either to the right or the left. Then re-run the test. If that does not help, try adjusting the opposite direction.

• If none of the above adjustments results in a test output of 100, the main shaft encoder board and cable should be replaced .

If the result of this test is zero:

• Check the main shaft encoder cable and be sure it is not damaged and that it is plugged in properly to the Control Board and to the Main Shaft Encoder Board .

• If you do not have any flashing LEDs on the Main Shaft Encoder Board after checking the cable, the board and cable should be replaced .


Foot Pedal TestThe Foot Pedal test helps determine if there is a problem with the HQ Sweet Sixteen foot pedal .

When to use the Foot Pedal Test

How to use the Foot Pedal Test

• As you slowly depress the foot pedal, a percent of depression appears in the white box . The foot pedal should be controllable from 0 to 100% . .

Burn-in

Several of the Handi Quilter quilting machines require a speed calibration that occurs during the standard burn-in process at Handi Quilter when the machines are built. During burn-in, the machines start running at their slowest speed, then gradually ramp up to the fastest speed and then back down again to a stop . This is one complete burn-in cycle . As this occurs, the control board is sending a specific value to the motor driver board to tell it to drive the motor a certain percent speed . The control board then looks at how fast the motor is really going and compares it with the speed it should be going . For example, an HQ Sweet Sixteen machine set at 10% speed should be driving the motor at 180 rpm. If the motor is actually going slower or faster than the specified speed, then the speed table that is stored in memory is adjusted by a small amount to deliver a more accurate speed . When the cycle is finished and the motor stops, the new values are then stored in memory. If the test is not stopped, another cycle will start and each speed level is checked again and adjusted if necessary. If the burn-in cycle is stopped prior to the end of the first cycle, no changes are made to the internal speed table .

How to Run Burn-in

IMPORTANT: Before starting burn-in remove the needle and the bobbin case from the machine . This process runs the motor from the slowest speed to the fastest, and you want to eliminate the possibility of a needle striking the hook, bobbin case, or even worse, your finger.

Burn-in can be started from the front or rear handlebar display (on stand-up models) or on the front display for sit-down models .


Method 1On the display, press More, Diagnostic. Then tap five (or more) times at the top of the screen, in the center of the word, Diagnostics.

• NOTE: Because it may be difficult to hit the correct spot, just keep tapping until Burn-in starts.

• NOTE: Older versions of code with space between the Back and Main buttons on the bottom of the burn-in screen require you to press in that space between Back or Main. If you can’t get burn-in to run by tapping at the top center of the screen, try tapping at the bottom center instead.

To stop Burn-in, do one of the following:

• Press Back or Main on the display on machines with newer code versions where this option is available

• Press the Stop button on the handles

• Turn the power switch to the Off position

Method 2With the machine powered off, use a wire (a paper clip works great) to jumper pins 2 and 3 of the 9-pin stitch regulator or foot pedal connector at the back of the C-Pod . When the machine is powered on, burn-in will automatically start.

The difference between Method 1 and Method 2 is that Method 1 (starting from the display) will take the current speed table and only alter the settings if needed during the burn-in cycles . Method 2 will change all values back to the default values and then begin fine-tuning them from there.

When to use Burn-inAfter replacing a C-Pod

• A new C-Pod will have uncalibrated factory speed settings, so you will want to fine-tune those settings for your specific machine.

• Run burn-in at least five complete cycles.

• Use either Method 1 or Method 2 to start burn-in .

If you receive a “Needle Sense Failure” or “Needle Sense Failure During Walk” message.

• This message indicates that the required speed for final positioning of the needle during the stopping sequence is either too low or too fast .

• First check for any obstructions such as thread in the hook/bobbin case area. Make sure the hand wheel turns freely when rotated by hand .

• Use method 1 and run at least five complete cycles.

• If you continue to receive this error message, run for another five cycles. If that fails to resolve the problem, then start burn-in using method 2 .

When any work is performed on the machine that may alter the dynamics of the machine, such as:

• Annual cleaning and lubricating (not including regular lint removal and hook oiling)

• Removal or adjustment of either the hook or main shaft

• Adjustment of belt tension

NOTE: If you perform burn-in with the jumper in the back of the C-pod (instead of from the front display), all speed calibration values are reset back to factory settings. If you perform the burn-in with the front handlebars attached, the speed calibration settings are not reset back to factory settings; however the speed calibration is adjusted from where the values currently are . Run burn-in for four to five cycles after working on the machine to ensure calibration is still good as the dynamics of the machine may have changed .

Documents

Artistic Quilter SD-16 Service Manual Service Manual… · The Artistic SD-16 utilizes high-tech electronics and an innovative touch-pad user interface to offer greater functionality