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ARADA GUIDES/A GUIDE TO THE ROCK HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY
CONTENTS
Aknowledgements 7
Chapter 1 - Background 8Introduction 9Sources 10The setting 12Historical Background 14Religion 18Architectural styles 21Plan 23Pillars, capitals and ceilings 26Decorations and paintings 27Before starting the excursions 31Legenda 34
Chapter 2 - Mekele and its sourroundings 38
Ende Yesus Archnao 41
Chapter 3 - Wukro-Hawzen-Degum (Gheralta) 44
Debre Maryam Korkor 48Maryam Papaseit 51Debre Tsion 53Abuna Abraham Debre Maar 56Selassie Degum 58Yohannes Maequddi 60Maryam Berakit 63Abuna Tekle Haymanot 65Abuna Gebre Mikael Koraro 66Abuna Yemata 68Abraha Atsabaha 70
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CHAPTER 1/ AKSUM THROUGH THE CENTURIES
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Chapter 4 - Wukro-Atsbi-Dera-Sinkata 76
Wukro Chercos 82Mikael Amba 84Mikael Barka 88Debre Selam (Mikael) 91 Zarema Giyorgis 93Yohannes Metmaq Gazien 97Medhane Alem Adi Kesho 99Petros Paulos Milahizengi 102Gabriel Tsilalmao 106
Chapter 5 - Hagere Selam-Abi Addi (Tembien) 108
Abba Yohanni 111Gabriel Wukien 113Maryam Hibito 116Abuna Aregawi Zegi 118Abba Salama 121
Chapter 6 - Hawzen-Sinkata-Adigrat-Enticho-Nebolet 124
Maryam Wukro 128Maryam Qiat 132Beta Yesus Guwahegot 135Gunda Gunde 138Maryam Bahera 142Debre Damo 144
Main Churches Reference Table 148
Tour Information 152
Iconographic Sources 160
Index 161
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HAGERE SELAM -ABI ADDI(TEMBIEN)CHAPTER 5
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5Tembien is an area around Abi Addi between the Takezze River and the Gheralta region on the east-west axis, and between the rivers Mai Weri and Geva on the north-south axis. It is divided into two different
areas: a lowland, called Tembien Quolla, at an altitude of around 1,500m; and a higher area called Tembien Dega, with several mountain chains, whose high passes allow to travel around the region. Here the erosion has formed beautiful rock bastions and pinnacles of various shapes and colours. In these mountains two great battles took place during the Italo-Ethiopian war, in November 1935 and February 1936, when Ras Kassa and Ras Seyoum distinguished themselves trying to bar the advance of the fascist invaders.In 1972 Ruth Plant during her visit to the churches of this area observed many incense and mimosa torn trees and observed the dry hills in a semi-desert area. She says: ‘The people were a mixture of Agau and usual highlander – who had been pagan till the 17th or 18th century. Large grasshoppers had eaten many of the succulent leaves off the trees and hung like new leaves, dark green in clusters, on the bare denuded stalks.’ At her time the low part of Tembien was infested with malaria. She continues: ‘The Italians tried to make the road running southward from Abi Addi to Fenorea but because of the low altitude and prevalence of malaria, they were forced to give this up and make a second road running south from Adigrat-Quiha-Dessie whichgoes over the mountains. The stone setts upon which the road was made fifty years ago are still in use. The metal bow spring bridge over the River Tacassa is a magnificent monument to Italian enterprise, standing like a sentinel but now rarely used.’1 That bridge no longer exists: a new one has been constructed.To the north of Abi Addi the road twists through fabulous mountain scenery and leads to Workamba and Adwa. The landscape is spectacular and changes from precipices to plateaus and rock pillars. Soon the typical pinnacles and hills of the Adwa region appear.
NOTES1 Plant, Ruth (1985), p. 144.
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Abba Yohanni
Gabriel Wukien
Maryam Teamina
Maryam Kaka
Maryam Hibito
Yesus Weleggesa
Mikael WerkibetAbuna Aregawi Zegi Tecla Haymanot TambaMaryam TambaDebre Amba SelassieMaryam HitsewtoAbba SalamaAmanuel Mai BahaMaryam DogolchakoAbuna Fikado Amlak
The Churches
Aby Addi
Yetchila
km 44
km 56,8
km 2,9
Megab
Werkamba
Hagere Selam
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74. Abba Yohanni
Interest: HighAccessibility: AffordableWalking time: 50 min.
Itinerary: The church is located just off the Abbi Addi-Adwa road, around 8km north of Abi Addi. It is visible from far distance for its white façade, on the slopes of Debre Asa, a mountain mass with a vague shape of a hammer, to the west of the Aby Addi-Adwa road. The church, at an altitude of about 2,300m above sea level, can be approached from the west side of the mountain through an easy ascent followed by a more difficult climb. It is part of a monastery, and women are not allowed into it. On the way, one enjoys the landscape dominated by Mount Debre Asa (or Debre Ansa), where more rock-hewn churches are located. It is said that Debre Asa means ‘Mount of the Fishes’ and that King Gebre Meskal stated that the holy men in that hermitage were as numerous as fishes in the water.1
74.a Plan of the church.
3 m
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ARADA GUIDES/A GUIDE TO THE ROCK HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY
74.b Façade.
Church: After the old rock façade collapsed, it was replaced by a built one, whose white colour makes it visible from afar, even though it is 300m high on the rock wall. The church is entered through a dark and steep descending tunnel that leads to the northern nave through an Aksumite door. Six cruciform freestanding pillars divide the internal space into three naves and four bays, one of which, along the western façade, has collapsed. The bays have different sizes with the eastern ones larger, and with higher ceilings of around 9 metres. The pillars are connected by arches and the ceilings, higher than the top of the arches, have cupolas with carved decorations. Other decorations are on the walls, mostly blind arcades and an Aksumite frieze surmounted by a carved frame. On the pillars are paintings of the 15th century, one of them representing Abba Yohanni; other paintings of saints on the pillars and the twelve apostles on the walls are of the 17th century.1 According to Lepage and Mercier the church can be dated between the 14th and 15th century.2
NOTES1 Lepage, Claude; Mercier, Jacques (2005), p. 165.2 Lepage, Claude; Mercier, Jacques (2005), p. 167.
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75. Gabriel Wukien
Interest: Very highAccessibility: AffordableWalking time: 120 min./30 min.
Itinerary: The church is about 16km northwest of Abi Addi. It can be reached, from the road, in a 2-hour rough walk ending with a steep part inside the fence of the monastery. The time can be shortened by reaching the foot of the cliff by car. From the church, there is a beautiful view over Guh, Workamba and Gheralta to the east; Abi Addi to the southwest; and the mountains of Adwa to to the north.
Church: It is very interesting and beautifully carved, with a completely hewn ambulatory on three sides, about 38 metres long. Rectangular in plan, the church has three naves and four bays. The pillars are either square or cruciform, and support flat beams and flat ceilings, except in the sanctuary area where they support some arches. The freestanding pillars are very high, around 5m. Note the fine double (square and bracket) capitals and the way the four flat beams converge on their corbels. Across the interior of the
75.a Plan of the church.
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ARADA GUIDES/A GUIDE TO THE ROCK HEWN CHURCHES OF TIGRAY
church, high on the walls, runs a frieze of blind arcades and beautifully carved mouldings, similar to the one visible in the rock pronaos and on the Aksumite door that enters the church. Plant remarks that: ‘Not only the church has been well hewn but the use of levels has been understood and utilised as at the entrance where one comes in under a tunnel. It is so completely hidden away that from the approach, one has no conception of the sense of scale’.1 The church might be dated to the 15th century.2 A 1.5-hour walk eastwards of Gabriel Wukien leads to the simple cave church of 76.
74.b Ceiling and blind arcades.
75.c Ceiling with bas-relief.
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Maryam Teamina, which has a complete ambulatory decorated with paintings and massive old wooden doors. At about 45 minutes from Maryam Teamina toward Abi Addi can be found the rock-hewn church of 77. Maryam Kaka.3
NOTES1 Plant, Ruth (1985), p. 154.2 Tigray Tourism Commission, Tigray the Open-Air Museum, Mekele.3 Plant, Ruth (1985), p. 151.
75.d Ceiling with bas-relief.
