8/20/2019 Apples, +12 Ways, from Mark Bittman's Kitchen Matrix

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APPLES

 +12 WAYS

25 8

When you transform an apple by cooking, you

may make it soft, fluffy, chewy, savory, sweet, orcreamy—the potential is enormous. Yes, an apple

loses some juiciness and freshness when you

cook it, but as an ingredient it’s just as versatile

as a potato. (You probably know that in French

the potato is called pomme de terre, or “apple of

the earth.”)

This matrix explores cooked apples in various

forms, at least some of which (I hope) you’ll find

unexpected. All of the sweet versions are wonder-

ful for either dessert or breakfast, while the savory

ones make terrific side dishes for just about any-

thing roasted or pan-cooked. All serve four.Peeling is always optional—I personally like the

texture of apple skins—but coring is not. If you’re

slicing apples or cutting them into chunks, you

can core them the easy way: cut them into quar-

ters, then take out the seeds with a paring knife. If

you’re halving them, take out the core with a melon

baller and trim the rest with a paring knife. And if

you want to cut them into rings, dig into the flower

(the non-stem) end with a paring knife until you get

all the inedible parts out, or use an apple corer.

8/20/2019 Apples, +12 Ways, from Mark Bittman's Kitchen Matrix

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BAKED

FRIED

SAUTÉED

ROASTED

Tempura with HoneyHeat 2 inches of neutral oil in a deep pan to 350°F. Whisk together 2 cups

ice water, 1½ cups flour, and 3 egg yolks. Put another 1 cup flour in a

bowl. One piece at a time, dredge 1½ pounds apples, cut into rings, in

the flour, then dip in the batter. Fry each piece until golden, 5 minutes or

less. Drain on paper towels. Garnish: drizzle of honey.

Shallot-ThymeCook 4 thinly sliced shallots in ¼ cup olive oil over medium heat,

stirring, until soft and brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Add 1½ pounds thinly

sliced apples and 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves; cover, turn the heat to

low, and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high, and cook,

stirring, for another 10 minutes.

Moroccan SpicedHeat the oven to 425°F. Toss 2 pounds apples, cut into chunks, with

2 tablespoons olive oil; spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for

10 minutes; add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 tablespoon minced fresh

ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon ground coriander, and

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon; toss well to coat. Roast until tender,

stirring occasionally, another 10 to 15 minutes.

Blue Cheese and FigUse port, brandy, or Riesling

instead of apple juice. Skip

the praline mixture; combine

4 ounces crumbled blue cheese

and ¼ cup chopped dried figs

(or raisins). After turning and

basting, fill each cavity with

the cheese mixture instead of

topping with the praline.

Balsamic-RosemarySubstitute olive oil for the butter

and ¼ cup balsamic vinegar for

¼ cup of the apple juice. Skip the

praline mixture; instead, sprinkle

the apples with 1 tablespoon

chopped fresh rosemary after

turning and basting.

FrittersSkip the tempura batter, flour,

and honey; grate the apples. 

Beat together 1 large egg and

½ cup grated fontina cheese; 

stir in the apples and ½ cup

flour. Shape into walnut-size

balls and fry as above. Garnish:

lemon wedges.

Lemon andPoppy SeedSubstitute melted butter for the

olive oil. Substitute ¼ cup sugar, 

1 tablespoon poppy seeds, and

1 tablespoon lemon zest for the

garlic, ginger, and spices.

FRUIT 25FRUIT 25

Brussels Sproutsand SageSubstitute 4 tablespoons butter

for the oil and skip the shallots

and thyme. When butter melts,add the apples, ½ pound

quartered Brussels sprouts,

and 1 tablespoon chopped sage;

cover and continue as above.

Garnish: Parmesan.

Cheddar GratinUse melted butter for the oil; skip

the ginger and spices. Combine

½ cup grated Cheddar, ½ cup

bread crumbs, and 2 additional

tablespoons melted butter.

When the apples are tender, top

with the Cheddar mixture; broil

until lightly browned.

Cranberry-OrangeSubstitute 4 tablespoons butter

for the oil; skip shallots and

thyme. When the butter melts,

add the apples and 1 cup fresh

cranberries; cover and continue

as above. After uncovering, stir

in ½ cup sugar and 1 tablespoon

orange zest; keep the heat at

medium-high.

PralineHalve and core 4 apples. Put cut side down in a greased baking pan. Driz-

zle with 1 tablespoon melted butter and 1 cup apple juice. Bake at 375°F

for 20 minutes. Cook ½ cup brown sugar, ½ cup chopped pecans, and

3 tablespoons butter until butter melts; add ½ teaspoon vanilla. Turn

the apples, baste, then top with the praline; bake for 20 minutes.

Cornmeal-CrustedSkip the batter, flour, and honey.

Put 2 cups buttermilk in a large

bowl; combine 1 cup flour, 1 cup

cornmeal, and ¼ teaspoon

cayenne in a separate bowl. Dip

the apple rings in buttermilk,

then dredge in the cornmeal

mixture. Fry as above.

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