An Excerpt from Home Baked by Hanne Risgaard

7/31/2019 An Excerpt from Home Baked by Hanne Risgaard

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There is magic in grain: when its in the eld, when the grains are ground to four in the

mill, when the four is turned to dough, and when the dough is baked to bread. The

magic is present all along, even i what happens on the journey rom grain to crumb is

explained by science. Because on any given day, there are always those extra little actors,

sparked by a particular moment in time: the wind and the weather, your mood, and theyeast or the sourdough in the four. Its these unique extra elements that mean you can

never be quite sure o how your eorts will be rewarded when you set out to transorm

the simplest o the simplefour, water, yeast, and saltinto a crisp, tasty, aromatic bread.

My ascination with this particular mix o knowledge, crat, and that little spark o magic

is the reason I have written this book. As such, it has two intentions: One is to present the

virtues o grains and four, which, at their best, are antastic products, direct rom nature,

and should be valued and treated with respect. In a world fghting liestyle diseases such

as obesity, diabetes, cardiac disease, and cancer, scientists have long recommended good

grain produce as one o the means to reduce the risk o these threats. But the sad act

is that 94 percent o all Danes(and a gure just as staggering in the United States)donot eat enough good, wholesome bread and are thereore not getting enough dietary

ber, vitamins, and minerals; a modern health dilemma, very easily remedied simply by

eating a lot more whole-grain productsand this, as luck would have it, is easily attainable

without compromising favor.

The books other message is that it is simple, rewarding, and un to bake. Even i some

recipes might deal with apparently expert terms such as biga,pte fermente,poolish,

sourdough, and long-time fermentation, my message is that you shouldnt let yoursel be

limited by what you eel you dont know. Baking is a crat, which everybody can learn,

but its at its best when driven by passion, expectation, and joy! It might be that in the

beginning you need to be a bit more disciplined, ollowing the recipes word or word,

until you begin to get that special knowledge in your ngertips or the dough, and an

eye and an ear or when a loa is ully baked. But rom there on in, once youve picked

up the techniques, you can ree yoursel rom the recipes and begin to experiment. Its

just like riding a bike: Once youve learned how, youll know it or the rest o your lie.

INTRodUCTIoN

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80

10 g rsh yst

350 g sit splt our

150 g whol-splt our

10 g slt

30 g (1 tbsp) ui hony

2 g (1 tsp) ri lvnr owrs

approx. 350 g lukwrm wtr

Rub the yeast into the four, then add the remain-

ing ingredients. Mix and work the dough as shown

in steps 24 on pages 4849. Let it rest or 30

minutes. Turn it out onto a foured work surace;

degas slightly. Shape it into a ball, put it back in the

bowl, and let it rest until it has doubled in volume.

Preheat the convection oven, with baking stone,

to 480F.

Turn the dough out onto a foured work surace,

and degas slightly. Fold and shape it into a round

loa, and place it, top side down, in a foured

proong basket. Leave to proo until it has nearly

doubled in volume.

Turn the dough out onto a baking peel dusted with

coarse cornmeal. Score the loa. Then, using a

spray bottle, generously mist the inside o the

oven with water. Ease the bread onto the baking

stone and spray a little more water into the oven.

Immediately lower the heat to 410F.

Bake the bread or 25 to 35 minutes.

LaVeNdeR BReadequipmnt: 2.2-lb (1-kg) roun proofng bskt

Many years ago, during a holiday in France, I was served a couple o

slices o rustic arm bread, which had a wonderul light taste and a

ragrance o lavender. Every slice o bread was generously covered

with a sot and creamy goat cheese, and it was served with a little

sprinkling o lavender owers and a dish o black olives. I enjoyed

every mouthul immensely and have tried with this recipe to capture

my memories o a beautiul summer lunch in Provence. I would de-

initely recommend the combination o goat cheese and olives with

the bread and alsonaturallya glass o fne red wine.


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I have known Jens Peter Kolbeck since the early 1970s. The frst time I

interviewed him he had just been inormed that he was to be the next

ofcial che or the Queen o Denmark, chosen or this esteemed

position because o his unique talent and his proound knowledge o

French cuisine. Jens Peter is unailingly generous with his knowledge

and experience, so he has ended up giving me a recipe: Hannes

lemon pie. The frst time he served it to me, the accompaniment was

homemade ice cream with sea buckthorn, along with resh berries and

syrup rom blackberries picked in the woods surrounding Grsten

Castle. My mouth starts watering just thinking about it!


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HaNNeS LemoN PIeequipnt: pi ish, 9 inchs crss

Ln custr:

Pulp 2 lns

Zst 1 ln, thinly grt

100 g light cn sugr

2 whl ggs plus 2 gg ylks

225 g hvy cr

dugh:

200 g pstry fur

100 g slt buttr

80 g icing sugr1 whl gg

Blend the pulp o two lemons with the thinly grated

zest o one. Add the sugar, eggs, egg yolks, and heavy

cream. When all ingredients have been thoroughly

blended, strain the mixture. This fnely strained

custard keeps well in the ridge or 4 to 5 days.

Let all the dough ingredients warm, then mix them

thoroughly, and knead the dough quickly until it

comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap,

and let it rest in the ridge or approximately 2 hours.

Flour your work surace lightly. Roll out the dough.

Line the sides and bottom o the pie dish. It is

important that the dough reach all the way to the

top edge o the dish. Place the dish and dough in

the reezer or approximately hour.

Preheat the oven to 360F.

Remove the dish rom the reezer, line the dough

with aluminum oil, fll it with dried beans, and bake

the pie base or 25 to 30 minutes, until slightly

golden but only hal baked. Remove beans and oil.

Pour the lemon custard into the warm pie base

until it comes to approximately 0.1 inch below the

edge. Put the pie in the oven, and bake it or

approximately another 25 minutes, until the

custard has settled.

Let the fnished pie cool a little; then serve with, or

example, berries, lightly beaten whipped cream,

or a sot and creamy homemade ice cream.

PS: Jens Peters comments: I all o the pie gets

fnished, then you havent baked enough!

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An Excerpt from Home Baked by Hanne Risgaard