American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Linda Murphy

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    1/26

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    2/26

    MACXBKM@

    _B@C

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    3/26

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    4/26

    MACXBKM@

    _B@C^fc Sdtbamtc Keapm`be` te tfc_b`cs m`n _b`crbcs ei tfc

    S`btcn [tmtcs

    GM@KB[ XEHB@[E@

    M@NDB@NM ASXZFR

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    5/26

    S`bvcrsbty ei Kmdbier`bm Zrcss, e`c ei tfc aest

    nbstb`oubsfcn u`bvcrsbty prcsscs b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs,

    c`rbkfcs dbvcs mreu`n tfc werdn hy mnvm`kb`o skfedmrsfbp

    b` tfc fuam`btbcs, sekbmd skbc`kcs, m`n `mturmd skbc`kcs.

    Bts mktbvbtbcs mrc suppertcn hy tfc SK Zrcss Ieu`nmtbe`

    m`n hy pfbdm`tfrepbk ke`trbhutbe`s irea b`nbvbnumds m`n

    b`stbtutbe`s. Ier aerc b`ieramtbe`, vbsbt www.ukprcss.cnu.

    S`bvcrsbty ei Kmdbier`bm Zrcss

    Hcrlcdcy m`n Des M`ocdcs, Kmdbier`bm

    Macrbkm` _b`c

    hy Gm`kbs Xehb`se` m`n Db`nm Aurpfy

    Ibrst puhdbsfcn b` Orcmt Hrbtmb` b` 8:=; hy Abtkfcdd

    Hcmzdcy, m` baprb`t ei Ektepus Zuhdbsfb`o Oreup Dtn,

    C`ncmveur Feusc, =62 [fmitcshury Mvc`uc,

    De`ne` _K8F 6GR

    www.ektepusheels.ke.ul

    M` Fmkfcttc SL Keapm`y

    www.fmkfcttc.ke.ul

    Kepyrboft Ektepus Zuhdbsfb`o Oreup Dtn 8:=;

    ^cxt kepyrboft Gm kbs Xehb se` & Db`nm Aurpfy 8:=;

    ^fc mutfers fmvc msscrtcn tfcbr aermd rbofts.

    Mdd rbofts rcscrvcn. @e pmrt ei tfbs werl amy hc

    rcprenukcn er utbdbzcn b` m`y iera er hy m`y acm`s,

    cdcktre`bk er ackfm`bkmd, b`kdunb`o pfetekepyb o,

    rckernb`o, er hy m`y b`ieramtbe` stermoc m`n rctrbcvmd

    systca, wbtfeut tfc prber wrbttc` pcrabssbe` ei tfc

    puhdbsfcrs.

    ^fc puhdbsfcrs wbdd hc ormtciud ier m`y b`ieramtbe`

    tfmt wbdd mssbst tfca b` lccpb`o iuturc cnbtbe`s up tenmtc. Mdtfeuof mdd rcmse`mhdc kmrc fms hcc` tmlc` b` tfc

    prcpmrmtbe` ei tfbs heel, `cbtfcr tfc puhdbsfcrs `er tfc

    mutfer km` mkkcpt m`y dbmhbdbty ier m`y ke`scquc`kc mrbsb`o

    irea tfc usc tfcrcei, er tfc b`ieramtbe` ke`tmb`cn tfcrcb`.

    Dbhrmry ei Ke`orcss Ke`tred @uahcr 8:=82>>::8

    B[H@7 2?6-:-38:-8?;8=->

    [ct b` Omrmae`n.

    Zrb`tcn m`n heu`n b` Kfb`m.

    Cnbterbmd Ke`sudtm`t7 Obdd Zbtts[c`ber Zrenuktbe` Ke`treddcr7 Duky Kmrtcr

    ZXENSKCN IEX EK^EZS[ ZSHDB[FB@O OXESZ

    D^N. HR [AMDD_EEN & [^C_MX^, @RK

    Am`mob`o Cnbter7 Gef` [amddween

    Ncsbo`7 Mdcxbs [brek

    Bamoc Xcscmrkf7 Amrbm A. Wcrmim

    Kmrteormpfbk Cnbter7 Kfmrdettc Abddcr

    Cnbterbmd Xcscmrkf7 Lmtfcrb`c Kmamroe

    Kmrteormpfy7 Kesaeormpfbks

    B`ncx7 Zfmres B`ncxb`o

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    6/26

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    7/26

    KE@^C@^[Zrcimkc vb bb

    Macrbkm`_b`camlb`oKeacseiMoc =

    ^fc_cst KMDBIEX@BM =6

    Ac`nekb`e Keu`ty 88

    Dmlc Keu`ty 89[e`eam Keu`ty 86

    Des Kmr`cres MYM 3:

    @mpm Ymddcy MYM 3>

    Hmy Mrcm 2:

    Ae`tcrcy Keu`ty =:8

    [m` Hc`bte & Aeu`t Fmrdm` MYMs =:6

    [m` Dubs Ehbspe Keu`ty ==:

    [m`tm Hmrhmrm Keu`ty ==2

    [bcrrm Ieetfbdds =;:

    Kc`trmd Ymddcy =;9

    [eutf Kemst =>:

    EXCOE@ =>9_bd dmact tc Ymddcy MYM =>2

    [eutfcr` Ercoe` =3>

    _M[FB@O ^E@ =9:Keduahbm Ymddcy MYM =9>

    Zuoct [eu`n MYM m`n [cmttdc =?6

    BNMFE =68

    KEDEXMNE =63

    E^FCX AES@^MB@ [^M^C[ =2:[eutf Nmletm, @ertf Nmletm, Ae`tm`m,

    Stmf, @cvmnm, _yeab`o

    FM_MBB M@N MD M[L M =2>

    ^fc[eutfwcst MXBWE@M =26

    @C_ ACVBKE 8:8

    ^CVM[ 8:>

    ELDMFEAM 8=:

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    8/26

    ^fcAbnwcst AB[[ESXB 8=>

    E^FCX _C[^KC@^X MD [^M^C[ 8=2Lm`sms, Bewm, Ab``csetm, @chrmslm

    ABKFBOM@ 888

    E^FCX CM[^KC@^XM D [^M^C[ 889Bddb`ebs, B`nbm`m, Efbe, _bske`sb`

    ^fc[eutfcmst YBXOB@B M 8;8

    KC@^XM D MZZMDMKFBM 8>:Lc`tukly, @ertf Kmredb`m, [eutf Kmredb`m,

    ^c``csscc , _cst Ybrob` bm

    DE_CX [ES^F 8>>Ocerobm, Iderbnm, Mdmhmam, Abssbssbppb,

    Deubsbm`m, Mrlm`sms

    ^fc@ertfcmst@C_ C@ODM@N 8>6Ke``cktbkut, @cw Fmapsfbrc, Xfenc Bsdm`n,

    Ycrae`t , Amssmkfusct ts, Amb`c

    @C_ REXL 83:De`o Bsdm`n MYM 838

    Funse` Xbvcr Xcobe` MYM 839

    Ib`ocr Dmlcs MYM 836

    @bmomrm Cskmrpac`t MYM 89>

    Dmlc Crbc MYM 893

    ZC@@[RDYM@BM 899

    ABN-M^DM@^BK [^M^C[@cw Gcrscy, Ncdmwmrc, Amrydm`n 896

    B`ncx 8?:Mkl`ewdcnoac`ts/Krcnbts 8?6

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    9/26

    vbbb | ZXCIMKC

    Bts fmrn te hcdbcvc tenmy tfmt ms rckc`tdy ms twc`ty ycmrs moe Macrbkm` wb`c

    prenukcrs icdt tfcy wcrc u`ncr sbcoc. ^mdl wms mdd ei `ceprefbhbtbe`bsts, wmr`b`o

    dmhcds, m`n cvc` aerc rcoudmtery ke`strmb`t tfm` tfmt ieddewb`o fc @ehdc Cxpcr-bac`t (`mtbe`md prefbhbtbe`) b` tfc =28:s. ^enmy, fewcvcr, wfc`cvcr B spc`n tbac

    b` m` Macrbkm` kbty, B iccd ms tfeuof wb`c ms m suhgckt ier stuny m`n c`geyac`t

    bs rcn fet. ^fcrcs m` c`croctbk c`tfusbmsa ier cxpcrbc`kb`o bts pdcmsurcs m`n

    `um`kcs m`n m oc`ub`c kurbesbty mheut tfc keapdcxbtbcs ei few bt bs orew` m`n

    amnc tfmt B sc`sc `ewfcrc cdsc b` tfc werdn (wbtf tfc pessbhdc cxkcptbe` ei

    Kfb`ms imstcst-orewb`o kbtbcs). Bt bs fmrndy surprbsb`o tfmt mdd wb`c ormpfs b` tfc

    S`btcn [tmtcs scca te hc fcmnb`o b` e`c nbrcktbe`, se aukf se tfmt tfc [tmtcs

    rckc`tdy evcrteel tfc ciictc amger wb`c prenukcrs ei Curepc, sukf ms Irm`kc m`n

    Btmdy, wfcrc wb`c fms `e aerc `evcdty vmduc tfm` petmtecs, te hckeac tfc werdnshboocst wb`c amrlct.

    ^fbs urhm` devc miimbr fms hcc` amtkfcn hy m orcmt oreu`nswcdd ei vb`eus

    mktbvbty b` tfc Macrbkm` keu`trysbnc. Ormpcvb`cs wcrc e`kc orew` scrbeusdy ier

    wb`c b` gust m fm`niud ei stmtcsprcneab`m`tdy b` Kmdbier`bms vbtbkudturmddy bncmd

    kdbamtc, ms wcdd ms b` upstmtc @cw Rerl, kdesc te amger ke`urhmtbe`s, m`n b` pmrts

    ei tfc Abnwcst, `etmhdy Efbe m`n Absseurb, wfcrc vb`cs fbsterbkmddy put new`

    reets b` Macrbkm` sebd. Nurb`o tfc scke`n fmdi ei tfc twc`tbctf kc`tury, m`etfcr

    mrrmy ei wb`c-prenukb`o stmtcs, b`kdunb`o _msfb`ote`, Ercoe`, Ybrob`bm, Zc``-

    sydvm`bm, m`n @cw Gcrscy, huroce`cn m`n prespcrcn. enmy tfcrc bs `et m stmtc b`tfc u`be`, cvc` b` sukf u`dblcdy eutpests ier tfc vb`c ms Fmwmbb m`n Mdmslm, tfmt

    bs `et feac te m wb`cry. ^fc tetmd `uahcr ei eikbmddy dbkc`scn wb`c prenukcrs

    b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs fms ausfreeacn irea et aukf aerc tfm` twe tfeusm`n mt

    tfc tur` ei tfc abddc``bua te aerc tfm` scvc` tfeusm`n tenmy.

    Mnabttcndy, seac ei tfcsc wb`crbcs mrc dekmtcn b` pdmkcs se b`fespbtmhdc te

    tfc vb`ckcrtmb`dy ier tfc Curepcm` ormpcvb`c Ybtbs vb`bicrmtfmt tfcy eitc`

    Z

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    10/26

    bxZXCIMKC |

    fmvc te ncpc`n e` ormpcs, er seactbacs wb`c, sfbppcn b` irea etfcr aerc vb`c-

    irbc`ndy stmtcs. Hut tfcrc km` hc `e neuht ei tfc sb`kcrbty wbtf wfbkf se am`y

    Macrbkm`s, wfcrcvcr tfcy dbvc, fmvc `ew cahrmkcn wb`c.^fbs heel bs m kcdchrmtbe` ei tfbs ncdbkbeus m`n ncdboftiud pfc`eac`e , m`n

    ei gust few am`y Macrbkm`s fmvc ke`qucrcn m` mrcm ei cxpcrtbsc e`kc rcomrncn

    ms qub`tcssc`tbmddy Curepcm`. _c fcmr m orcmt ncmd mheut tfc hbo-peb`ts-skercrs

    irea Kmdbier`bms aest imaeus rcobe`s, hut tfmt bs e`dy e`c pmrt ei tfc b`spbrb`o

    pmtkfwerl tfmt bs tfc stery ei Macrbkm` wb`c tenmy.

    e pbkl gust m icw wb`cs tfmt cbtfcr mrc er sfeudn hc rcomrncn ms Macrbkm`

    kdmssbks7 tfc hcst Kmhcr`cts m`n Herncmux hdc`ns irea Kmdbier`bm, _msfb`ote`,

    Ybrob`bm, m`n De`o Bsdm`n< tfc `cst Zb`et @ebrs irea Zmkbk-keedcn Kmdbier`bm

    m`n Ercoe`< suaptueus Kfmrne``mys irea mdd evcr tfc keu`try< suhtdc [yrmfm`n etfcr Xf`c ormpc vmrbctbcs irea cmstcr` _msfb`ote`< mnabrmhdy prckbsc

    Xbcsdb`os irea @cw Rerls Ib`ocr Dmlcs m`n, b`krcmsb`ody, Abkfbom`. ^fcsc mrc

    hcb`o geb`cn hy hrboft-irubtcn ^caprm`bdde irea ^cxms m`n seutfcr` Ercoe`>: b` =2?:m`n tfc heea fms hcc` fcmrn

    mreu`n tfc werdn. Macrbkms hcst hettdcs mrc cvcry hbt ms oeen

    ms tfc `cst wb`cs ei Curepc.

    Mdtfeuof tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bs m rcdmtbvc tenndcr ms m

    wb`camlb`o m`n wb`c-nrb`lb`o `mtbe`, fbttb`o bts strbnc b` tfc

    abn-twc`tbctf kc`tury wfbdc bts Curepcm` keu`tcrpmrts fmvc

    hcc` mt iudd sprb`t ier fu`nrcns ei ycmrs, tfc tbacdb`c ei tfbs

    rcdmtbvcdy sfert c`edeobkmd ncvcdepac`t bs surprbsb`ody kea-

    pdcx. ^fc ity stmtcs amy hc u`btcn ms m `mtbe`, hut wfc` btkeacs te wb`camlb`o fbstery, kudturc, m`n vbtbkudturc, cmkf

    amy ms wcdd hc bts ew` keu`try.

    Zcepdc wcrc amlb`o wb`c fcrc de`o hcierc tfc mtbe` cvc`

    cxbstcn. Irc`kf Fuouc`ets hubdt hmscs b` Iderbnm b` tfc abn-

    =3::s m`n prenukcn wb`c irea tfc `mtbvc [kuppcr`e`o ormpc

    (m` mkqubrcn tmstc cvc` tenmy). Mreu`n =9:?, C`odbsf baab-

    orm`ts scclb`o rcdbobeus irccnea dm`ncn e` tfc Cmstcr` scmhemrn

    ei wfmt weudn hckeac Macrbkm. Mkkusteacn te nrb`lb`o wb`c

    wbtf tfcbr acmds, tfc Zbdorbas wcrc pdcmscn te `n `mtbvc

    ormpcvb`cs, Ybtbs dmhruskmm`n Ybtbs retu`nbiedbm, orewb`o wbdn b`

    tfcbr `cw feac, hut tfcy wcrc nbsamycn te nbskevcr tfmt wfc`

    icrac`tcn, tfcsc ormpcs amnc ausly, u`smvery wb`csIrc`kfkdmrcts tfcy wcrc `et.

    [e tfc scttdcrs sc`t ier Ybtbs vb`bicrmkuttb`os irea Curepc

    trmnbtbe`md vmrbctbcs sukf ms Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e` m`n Xbcsdb`o

    m`n pdm`tcn tfca b` tfc kedn, wct, m`n eitc` fuabn ke`nbtbe`s

    ei tfcbr `cw feac. ^fcsc `ehdc vb`cs wcrc bdd subtcn te tfc

    kdbamtc m`n sebds ei Ybrob`bm, Amrydm`n, @cw Rerl,

    Amssmkfusctts, m`n etfcr cmrdy kede`bcs, m`n aest nbcn wbtfb`

    m icw ycmrs ei pdm`tb`o.

    Mreu`n tfc smac tbac, [pm`bsf abssbe`mrbcs hcom` aevb`o

    `ertfwmrn irea Acxbke b`te @cw Acxbke m`n dmtcr b`te tfc

    ]ucc` ei tfc Abssbe`s

    [m`tm Hmrhmrm, tfc tc`tf ei tfc twc`ty-e`c abssbe`s cstmhdbsfcn hy [pm`bsf ae`ls

    b` Kmdbier`bm aerc tfm` twe fu`nrcn ycmrs moe, b`kduncs m vb`cymrn irea wfbkf tfc

    abssbe`mrbcs prenukcn wb`c ier smkrmac`tmd purpescs.

    E` tfc krewncn wb`c trmbd

    ^fc pepudmtbe` ei wb`crbcs b` seac rcobe`s fms hckeac se nc`sc tfmt vbsbters km` spc`n

    m wccl b` e`c mrcm m`n stbdd et fmvc tbac te vbsbt mdd tfc tmstb`o reeas (eppesbtc).

    M _loK Mo

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    13/26

    | MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC8

    tcrrbtery tfmt wms te hc l`ew` ms Kmdbier`bm. Hctwcc` =?92

    m`n =68>, Irm`kbskm` ae`ls cstmhdbsfcn twc`ty-e`c abssbe`s b`

    tfmt tcrrbtery, pdm`tb`o tfc Abssbe` ormpcs tfcy fmn hreuoft

    wbtf tfca irea [pmb` te amlc wb`c ier keaau`be` purpescs.

    Kmdbier`bms Acnbtcrrm`cm`-dblc kdbamtc prevcn ke`nukbvc te

    sukkcssiud Abssbe` ormpc orewb`o m`n wb`camlb`o.

    Cmst Kemst vb`t`crs, fewcvcr, ke`tb`ucn te hc ncstb`cn ier

    imbdurc. ^feams Gciicrse`, tfc `mtbe`s rst sckrctmry ei stmtcm`n tfbrn prcsbnc`t, wms m orcmt mnabrcr m`n keddckter ei

    Herncmux wb`cs. B` tfc abn- te dmtc-=?::s, fc mttcaptcn te orew

    Curepcm` vmrbctbcs mt fbs Ae`tbkcdde cstmtc b` Ybrob`bm. Hut fc,

    m`n etfcr Cmstcr` stmtcsac` wbtf krmvb`os ier kdmrct, imbdcn te

    orew m`n vb`biy Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e`, Acrdet, m`n Kmhcr`ct

    Irm`k, vmrbctbcs tfmt wcrc tfc` u`subtcn te tfc Cmst Kemst

    kdbamtc m`n sebds. B` Zc``sydvm`bm, Ocram` baaborm`ts wcrc

    cxpcrbc`kb`o sbabdmr nbsmppeb`tac`ts wbtf Xbcsdb`o m`n

    Ocwrztrmab`cr pdm`tb`os. fcrc Gmacs Mdcxm`ncr, cxmspcrmtcn

    hy fbs vb`bicrm-hmscn wb`cs, ke`vcrtcn te tfc `mtbvc Ybtbs dmhruskm

    b` tfc =?;:s. Etfcrs ieddewcn, demnb`o tfc wb`cs wbtf suomr te

    eiisct tfc ausly mreams m`n mvers b`fcrc`t b` tfc ormpcs.^fc keu`trys rst keaacrkbmddy sukkcssiud wb`cry wms

    cstmhdbsfcn b` Kb`kb``mtb, Efbe, b` tfc abn-=6::s hy hm`lcr

    @bkfedms De`owertf. [pmrldb`o wb`cs amnc irea tfc mtbvc

    Kmtmwhm ormpc wcrc fbs spckbmdty, m`n tfc wb`cs wcrc se

    keapctc`tdy amnc tfmt tfcy hckmac pepudmr b` C`odm`n ms wcdd.

    Hut b` tfc =69:s, nbscmsc nckbamtcn fbs vb`cs, m`n Efbe wb`c-

    amlcrs skmttcrcn te @cw Rerl m`n Absseurb te hcob` momb`.

    M rcmd tur` kmac b` =6>2, wfc` Btmdbm` m`n Irc`kf baab-

    orm`ts hcom` te een @ertfcr` Kmdbier`bm te sccl tfcbr iertu`cs

    b` oedn ab`b`o. M`n tfcy hcom` te kudtbvmtc wb`c ormpcs,

    b`kdunb`o Wb`im`ncd m`n Kmrbo`m`c, b` tfc [bcrrm Ieetfbdds te

    amlc wb`cs te sdmlc tfcbr Curepcm` tfbrst.

    B` tfc =63:s m`n 9:s, Curepcm` vb`t`crs imkcn m krbppdb`o

    krbsbs. Zfyddexcrm, m reet deusc tfmt smps tfc strc`otf irea vb`cs,

    fmn amnc bts wmy b`te Curepc, aest dblcdy e` kuttb`os irea tfc

    S`btcn [tmtcs, wfcrc mtbvc vb`cs tedcrmtcn tfc huo m`n tfescpdm`tcn e` [t. Oceroc reetsteklprbamrbdy Wb`im`ncd, Zctbtc

    [brmf, m`n Kmrbo`m`cwcrc rcsbstm`t te bt. _fc` vb`cs irea

    Macrbkm wcrc prepmomtcn b` Irm`kc, tfc keu`try tfmt weudn hc

    fmrncst-fbt hy pfyddexcrm, tfc b`icstmtbe` cxpdencn, lbddb`o vb`cs

    mt mdmrab`o rmtcs.

    Mt tfc smac tbac, Macrbkm s wcrc b`krcmsb`o tfcbr pdm`tb`os

    eiYbtbs vb`bicrm, usb`o kuttb`os bapertcn irea Curepc. ^fcsc

    spckbcs wcrc et rcsbstm`t te pfyddexcrm, se tfcy, tee, hcom` te

    nbc. ^fc rcacnyormitb`o Curepcm` vmrbctbcs e`te rcsbstm`t

    Macrbkm` reetsteklsdewdy hreuoft tfc vb`cymrns hmkl te dbic.

    (B` tfc =2?:s m`n 6:s m reetstekl hcdbcvcn te hc pfyddexcrm-

    preei wms ncvcdepcn te prenukc dmroc ybcdns ei fbof-qumdbty

    ormpcs ke`sbstc`tdy. Hut bt, b` imkt, prevcn suskcptbhdc te pfyddex-

    crm, m`n Kmdbier`bm orewcrs wcrc ierkcn te rbp eut tfcbr vb`cs

    m`n rcpdm`t wbtf etfcr reetstekls.)

    _fbdc Kmdbier`bm m`n Curepc struoodcn, vb`cymrns b` tfc cmst,

    pdm`tcn b` dmhruskm, ke`tb`ucn te tfrbvc, m`n rcscmrkfcrs rcmdbzcn

    tfmt hy ormitb`o Irc`kf vb`bicrm e`te mtbvc dmhruskm reetstekl,

    ormpc orewcrs keudn fmvc nbscmsc-rcsbstm`t vb`cs tfmt prenukcn

    nrb`lmhdc wb`cs b` m aerc Curepcm` stydc. ^fcsc ormitcn vb`cs,

    mdse pdm`tcn tfreuofeut Curepc, hckmac keaae` e` tfc Cmst

    Kemst m`n b` tfc [eutfm fmppy acnbua hctwcc` nbscmsc-

    pre`c vb`bicrm m`n tfc iu`ly wb`cs prenukcn irea dmhruskm._fc` tfc oedn rm` eut b` Kmdbier`bm b` tfc dmtc =63:s, tfc

    ab`crs aevcn te [m` Irm`kbske, [e`eam, @mpm, Ac`nekb`e,

    [eutfcr` Kmdbier`bm, m`n etfcr wmra mrcms, pdm`tb`o wb`c ormpcs

    e` tfc scktbe`s ei tfcbr prepcrtbcs tfmt keudn `et sustmb` sukf

    kreps ms teamtecs, pcppcrs, squmsfcs, erkfmrn irubts, m`n `uts.

    ^fcsc dmrocdy Btmdbm` m`n Irc`kf scttdcrs put wb`c ormpcs b`te

    oreu`n tfmt weudn dmtcr hc nccacn ms fmddewcn hy wb`camlcrs.

    ^fc cxbstc`kc tenmy ei b`tc`sc, kfmrmktcriud edn-vb`c Kmdbier`bm

    rcn wb`cs km` hc trmkcn te tfc baaborm`ts wfe pdm`tcn m`n tfc`

    amb`tmb`cn tfesc rst vb`cs tfreuof Zrefbhbtbe` m`n hcye`n.

    Ier tfc cxt icw nckmncs, tfc wb`c b`nustry b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs

    wms dmrocdy dekmd< `mtbe`mddy, b tcrcst b` wb`c m`n bts ke suaptbe`wms dbabtcn, m n tfesc wfe c geycn wb`c eitc` kfesc Curepcm`

    hettdcs. fc mnvc`t ei Zrefbhbtbe` nbn`t fcdp amttcrs m`y.

    Zrefbhbtbe` wms spurrcn hy m nckmncs-de`o tcapcrm`kc

    aevcac`t, wfesc mnvekmtcs fcdn tfmt b`texbkmtbe` dcn te krbac,

    nchmukfcry, m`n tfc rub`mtbe` ei sekbcty. ^fcbr b`btbmd kmdds ier

    aencrmtbe` b` tfc ke`suaptbe` ei wb`c, hccr, m`n spbrbts cvedvcn

    b`te ncam`ns ier m tetmd hm` e` tfc prenuktbe`, trm`spertmtbe`,

    m`n smdc ei ncae` nrb`l, m`n tfcbr wbsfcs wcrc orm`tcn hy tfc

    =2=2 rmtbkmtbe` ei tfc =6tf Mac`nac`t te tfc Ke`stbtutbe` m`n

    tfc bapdcac`tmtbe` ei tfc dmw vbm tfc Yedstcmn Mkt b` =28:.

    Absseurb wb`camlb`o

    [te`c Fbdd bs tfc edncst wb`cry b` Absseurb, ieu`ncn b` =6>? hy Ocram`baaborm`ts, wfe wcrc amlb`o =.83 abddbe` omdde`s ei wb`c pcr ycmr hy =2::.

    Mhm`ne`cn nurb`o Zrefbhbtbe`, tfc wb`cry wms rcstercn hy tfc Fcdn imabdy

    b` =293 (Hctty m`n Gba Fcdn mrc sfew` fcrc), m`n tenmy bt bs e`c ei tfc stmtcs

    aest bapertm`t prenukcrs.

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    14/26

    ^FC DCOMKR EI ZXEFBHB^BE@

    MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC | ;

    [b`kc Kede`bmd tbacs, Macrbkm fms fmn

    tcapcrm`kc pcrbens, seac mtbe`md, etfcrs

    dbabtcn te spckbk stmtcs er rcobe`s wbtfb`

    stmtcs. Ymrbeus oevcr`ac`t, rcdbobeus, m`n

    puhdbk fcmdtf dcmncrs fmvc vebkcn tfcbrke`kcr`s mheut tfc ciickts ei mdkefed e`

    tfc pepudmkc, vbcwb`o sukf nrb`ls ms tfrcmts

    te pfysbkmd m`n spbrbtumd fcmdtf.

    _fc` Zrefbhbtbe` hcom` b` =28:,

    mpprexbamtcdy e`c-fmdi ei tfc stmtcs mdrcmny

    fmn dmws prefbhbtb`o er dbabtb`o mdkefed

    am`uimkturc. Spe` Xcpcmd b` =2;;, scvcrmd

    ei tfesc stmtcs ke`tb`ucn te hm` heezc

    seac u`tbd ms dmtc ms =299, wfc` imra

    wb`cry mkts hcom` te hc put b`te pdmkc,

    orm`tb`o imracrs tfc rboft te prenukc m`n

    scdd wb`cs amnc irea tfcbr ew` kreps. @et

    e`dy fmn mdkefed ke`suaptbe` hckeac dcss

    ehgcktbe`mhdc b` tfcsc strmoodcr stmtcs

    (aest ei tfca b` tfc Abnwcst m`n [eutf),

    morbkudturmd cke`eabks wcrc mdse mt pdmy,

    wbtf stmtc eikbmds sccb`o mnnbtbe`md

    rcvc`ucs irea wb`c cxkbsc m`n smdcs tmxcs,

    ms wcdd ms tfc ae`cy te hc amnc irea

    wb`c-hmscn teurbsa.

    Lm`sms wms tfc rst stmtc te mktbvcdy

    prefbhbt mdkefedbk hcvcrmoc prenuktbe`, b`

    =66= (mt tfc tbac, Amb`c fmn sukf m dmwe` bts heels, hut rmrcdy c`ierkcn bt). Lm`sms

    nbn`t c`n bts stmtc prefbhbtbe` u`tbd =2>62 Oedn Xusf, m`n hckmusc tfc vb`cs wcrc e` pfyddexcrm-

    rcsbstm`t reetstekl, am`y fmvc survbvcn te tfbs nmy.

    Mdse7 _FB^COcwrztrmab`cr, Amrsm``c, Auskmt, Zb`et Hdm`k,

    Xeussm``c, Ybeo`bcr< XCNMdbkm`tc Heuskfct, Hmrhcrm, Kmrbo`m`c,

    Orc`mkfc, Amdhck, Aeurvnrc, Zctbtc [brmf, Zctbt Ycrnet, [m`obevcsc,

    ^caprm`bdde (scc hex p. =3?).

    @mtbvc Macrbkm` vmrbctbcs^fc Ybtbs dmhruskm m`n Ybtbs retu`nbiedbm vb`c spckbcs tfmt cmrdy scttdcrs

    ieu`n orewb`o wbdn e` tfc Cmst Kemst nbn`t prenukc pmrtbkudmrdy

    pmdmtmhdc wb`cs. Ymrbctbcs ei tfcsc spckbcs mrc `ew orew` ier gubkc,

    gmas, m`n gcddbcs, hut b` slbddcn fm`ns tfcy km` hc trm`sieracn b`te

    rcwmrnb`o wb`cs.

    Ke`kernOrmpcy m`n sbapdc, tfbs purpdc dmhruskm vmrbcty bs prbamrbdy

    uscn te amlc gubkcs, gmas, gcddbcs, m`n tfc pepudmr lesfcr wb`c

    Am`bskfcwbtz. Abkfbom`, Zc``sydvm`bm, m`n @cw Rerl mrc tfc amger

    orewcrs ei Ke`kern, wbtf aukf ei tfcbr prenuktbe` oeb`o te _cdkfs.

    Auskmnb`c^fbs oreup eiYbtbs retu`nbiedbm b`kduncs tfc spckbk

    vmrbctbcs Kmrdes m`n [kuppcr`e`o ier wfbtc wb`cs, m`n @ehdc ier

    rcns. Auskmnb`cs fmvc m fbof tedcrm`kc ier tfc fuabnbty m`n iu`omd

    nbscmscs typbkmd b` tfc [eutfb` Iderbnm, Lc`tukly, @ertf Kmredb`m,

    m`n Abssbssbppb, te mac tfc aest preab`c`t stmtcsm`n prenukc

    aestdy swcct, vbskeus wb`cs tfmt fmvc m km`nbcn-irubt, ausly mream.

    @bmomrmMs Ke`kerns wfbtc dmhruskm keu`tcrpmrt, @bmomrm fmsm sbabdmr iexy, ausly kfmrmktcr tfmt tmstcs iercbo` te tfesc

    mkkusteacn te vb`bicrm wb`cs. Zrenuktbe` bs kc`tcrcn dmrocdy b` @cw

    Rerl [tmtc, wfcrc tfc wb`cs mrc amnc b` scabswcct m`n swcct stydcs.

    @erte`m.l.m. Ky`tfbm`m, tfbs mtbvc Ybtbs mcstbvmdbs ormpc prenukcs

    m iudd-henbcn, spbky rcn wb`c. @erte` bs tedcrm`t ei fuabnbty m`n

    bs tfus wbncdy kudtbvmtcn b` Absseurb m`n Ybrob`bm, wbtf peklcts ei

    pdm`tb`os b` tfc Abnwcst m`n cxms. Mdtfeuof bts m mtbvc spckbcs,

    @erte`/Ky`tfbm m dmkls tfc ausly, iexy mream ei etfcr mtbvc

    vmrbctbcs, m`n bs kmpmhdc ei amlb`o fbof-qumdbty, nry rcn wb`cs.

    Mdse7 Kmtmwhm (rcn).

    Fyhrbn vmrbctbcsIrc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbns mrc oc`ctbk kresscs eiYbtbs vb`bicrm m`n

    `mtbvc Macrbkm` spckbcs amnc hy Irc`kf hrccncrs. Aerc rckc`tdy,

    Macrbkm` fyhrbns fmvc hcc` ncvcdepcn hy tfc S`bvcrsbty ei Ab``c-

    setm m`n @cw Rerls Ker`cdd S`bvcrsbty, b`tc`ncn te fmvc m fbofcr

    tedcrm`kc ier fmrsf wb`tcr ke`nbtbe`s tfm` Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbns.

    _FB^C[

    Hrbm``m^fbs rcdmtbvcdy cw (b`trenukcn b` 8::=), kedn-tedcrm`t

    vmrbcty fms qubkldy hckeac m stm`neut wfbtc-wb`c ormpc b` tfc

    Abnwcst, pmrtbkudmrdy b` Bewm, Ab``csetm, m`n @chrmslm. Hrbm``m

    km` hc prenukcn b` eii-nry m`n scabswcct stydcs, m`n nbspdmys rbkf,

    cxetbk pb`cmppdc, am`oe, m`n pmpmym mvers tfmt mrc hmdm`kcn hy

    hrbsl mkbnbty. Cxpckt aerc irbobn rcobe`s te cahrmkc Hrbm``m, ms

    `cws ei bts petc`tbmd sprcmns.

    (ke`tb`ucn)

    @erte`

    @bmomrm

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    19/26

    OXMZC YMXBC^BC[ OXE_@ B@ ^FC S@B^CN [^M^C[ (ke`tb`ucn)

    | MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC6

    Dm Krcskc`tZrenukb`o wfbtc wb`cs rcab`bskc`t ei ermd

    Xbcsdb`os, tfbs vb`bicrm fyhrbn wms hrcn mt tfc S`bvcrsbty ei

    Ab``csetm te wbtfstm`n -;3I wb`tcr tcapcrmturcs, m`n bs m

    pepudmr kfebkc ier orewcrs b` tfc irbobn Abnwcst m`n Orcmt Dmlcs

    rcobe`s.

    [cyvmd^fbs Irc`kf-Macrbkm fyhrbn prenukcs nry m`n scabnry,

    acnbua-henbcn wfbtcs tfmt km` fmvc m` fcrhmd mkkc`t. Bts m

    pepudmr ormpc b` @cw Rerl m`n Absseurb.

    ^rmab`cttcM wfbtc vmrbcty hrcn te wbtfstm`n fmrsf wb`tcrs,

    ^rmab`cttc fms tfc ermd m`n spbkc kfmrmktcr ei e`c ei bts pmrc`ts,

    Ocwrztrmab`cr. Bt fms hckeac e`c ei Abkfbom s hcst wfbtc-wb`c

    vmrbctbcs, m`n B`nbm`m prenukcrs krcmtcn m ^ry e` rmab`cttc

    kmapmbo` te preaetc tfc wb`c te ke`suacrs.

    Ybnmd Hdm`kM kedn-fmrny Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn, bt amlcs

    iudd-henbcn, irubty, m`n ermd wfbtcs, m`n bs mdse cxkcddc`t ier bkc

    wb`c. @cw Rerls Ib`ocr Dmlcs rcobe` bs tfc fuh ier Ybnmd Hdm`k

    prenuktbe`, wbtf samdd veduacs mdse prenukcn b` Absseurb, Efbe,

    m`n Zc``sydvm`bm.

    Ybo`edcs^fbs kedn-fmrny Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn bs sbabdmr te

    Ybnmd Hdm`k b` bts kfmrmktcr m`n orewb`o rcobe`s.

    XCN[

    Kfmaheurkb`^fbs Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn prenukcs wb`cs wbtf

    hrboft rcn-irubt mvers, fcrhmkceus mreams, ra tm``b`s, m`n krbsp

    mkbnbty. _fbdc bt necs`t tedcrmtc tfc fmrsf wb`tcr tcapcrmturcs

    ei tfc Orcmt Dmlcs rcobe`, bt bs cspckbmddy subtcn te tfc dcss-

    kfmddc`ob o kdbamtcs ei Bddb`ebs, B`nbm`m, Efbe, m`n Zc``sydvm`bm.

    Ire`tc`mk^fbs S`bvcrsbty ei Ab``csetm fyhrbn amlcs rehust

    rcn wb`cs wbtf pmdmtc-rcircsfb`o mkbnbty. fc vb`cs wbtfstm`n-;:I tcapcrmturcs b` wb`tcr m`n cacroc b` sprb`o te puap eut

    ormpcs wbtf dbvcdy kfcrry m`n hcrry kfmrmktcr. Ire`tc`mk fms qubkldy

    hckeac m supcrstmr ormpc b` tfc Abnwcst m`n @cw C`odm`n.

    Amrckfmd IekfM nmrl-slb``cn Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn, Iekf

    amlcs acnbua-henbcn wb`cs wbtf hdmkl kfcrry mvers, m`n mdse

    mveriud ress. Zepudmr wbtf Abnwcst wb`camlcrs, bt km` fm`ndc

    kedn wb`tcrs, yct bs`t ms kedn-fmrny ms Ire`tc`mk m`n Amrqucttc.

    AmrqucttcZepudmr wbtf orewcrs b` tfc Abnwcst m`n @cw

    C`odm`n, tfbs fyhrbn bs sbabdmr te Ire`tc`mk.

    Mdse7 _FB^CHdm`k nu Hebs, Hrbm``m, Kmyuom _fbtc, Kfmrne`cd,

    Cncdwcbss, Dm Kressc, Acdeny, [t. Zcpb`, [tevcr, Ymdvb` Auskmt::

    >:: Abdcs

    FM_MBB8

    >:: LaLa :

    Abdcs :

    8::

    8:: Abdcs

    ?::

    >8:

    ;,;93

    3:

    88:

    =::

    >6

    ==>8::

    =9:

    ;8:

    9>

    ?:69

    >3

    38

    =::

    >:

    83

    =6

    ==

    3

    83

    =;

    8

    ;

    9

    6

    =?

    >:

    2>

    ;:

    =>

    9:

    >8

    9

    > =8

    99

    =>

    =:=

    =>3

    ;

    =:

    ;9

    =9 =?

    8;

    >:,:::

    8:,3::

    3;3,:::

    >,:::

    =,8::;,8::

    8,8::

    =,6::

    ;>,:::

    ;,:::

    =,9::

    =,8::

    ;,:::

    Mtdm`tm

    Lm`sms

    Kbty

    [m` Irm`kbske

    Des M`ocdcs

    [m` Nbcoe

    Zertdm`n

    Feuste`

    Huiimde

    @cw Rerl

    Kdcvcdm`n

    Kb`kb``mtb

    NctrebtKfbkmoe

    [t Deubs

    Acapfbs

    [cmttdc

    @cw Erdcm`s

    Nmddms

    Abmab

    [mdt Dmlc Kbty

    Eldmfeam Kbty

    Keduahus

    Ae`toeacry

    B`nbm`mpedbs

    Edyapbm

    [mdca

    [mkrmac`te Kfcyc``c

    Mustb`

    Db`ked`

    [t Zmud

    ^epclm

    Ncs Aeb`cs

    Ae`tpcdbcr

    Mdhm`y

    Dm`sb`o

    Kfmrdcste`

    Hmte`Xeuoc

    @msfvbddc

    ^rc`te`

    M``mpedbs

    _msfb`ote`,N.K.

    Ab``cmpedbs

    Kmrse` Kbty

    Zfec`bx

    Fe`edudu

    Gu`cmu

    Nc`vcr

    [m`tm Ic

    Zbcrrc

    Fcdc`m

    Hebsc

    Hbsamrkl

    Ke`kern

    Amnbse`

    [prb`oibcdnIrm`liert Xbkfae`n

    Xmdcbof

    Fmrrbshuro

    ^mddmfmsscc

    Gmklse`

    DbttdcXekl

    Keduahbm

    Gciicrse`Kbty

    Heste`

    Zrevbnc`

    Nevcr

    Fmrtiern

    Muoustm

    _M[FB@O^E@

    AE@^M@M

    _REAB@O

    [ES^F NMLE^M

    @EX^F NMLE^M

    @CHXM[LM

    LM@[M[

    ELDMFEAM

    @C_ ACVBKE

    MXBWE@M

    @CYMNM

    BNMFE

    AMB@C

    Y^ @F

    AM

    ZC@@[RDYM@BM

    @EX^FKMXEDB@M

    [ES^F KMXEDB@M

    OCEXOBM

    IDEXBNM

    MDMHMAMAB[[B[[BZZB

    MXLM@[M[

    ^C@@C[[CC

    LC@^SKLR

    BE_M

    BDDB@EB[ B@NBM@M

    KEDEXMNE

    S^MF

    AB@@C[E^M

    _B[KE@[B@ ABKFBOM@

    EFBE

    _C[^YBXOB@BMAB[[ESXB

    K^XB

    @G

    NCDM_MXC

    AMXRDM@NYBXOB@BM

    ^CVM[

    DESB[BM@M

    EXCOE@

    KMDBIEX@BM

    @C_REXL

    S [ M

    K M @ M N M

    ACVBKE

    Keu`try heu`nmry

    [tmtc heu`nmry

    [tmtc kmpbtmd

    Mkrcs ei vb`cymrn pcr stmtc

    @uahcr ei wb`crbcs pcr stmtc, 8:=8

    =,8::

    =:

    Zfec`bx

    =78>,:::,:::

    8::

    >::La :

    Abdcs :

    8::

    >:: Abdcs

    6:: La9::

    @

    MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC | =

    tfc hcst kde`cs ier tfcbr orewb`o ke`nbtbe`s, m`n wb`camlcrs km`

    twcml qumdbty m`n b`krcmsc keapdcxbty b` tfcbr wb`cs.

    Fewcvcr, tfcrc bs d bttdc neuht tfmt ke`trmhm`n kuttb`os

    fcdpcn cstmhdbsf seac ei Macrbkms orcmtcst vb`cymrns. ^mdcsmrc rbic ei vb`t`crs tuklb`o vb`c kuttb`os irea Herncmux m`n

    Hurou`ny b`te tfcbr hexcr sferts er subtkmscs m`n hrb`ob`o

    tfca b`te tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bddcomddy, kbrkuavc`tb`o vc-ycmr

    qumrm`tb`cs e` iercbo` pdm`t amtcrbmd, b` pdmkc te prcvc`t tfc

    b`trenuktbe` ei nbscmscn vb`cs m`n etfcr pdm`ts b`te tfc

    keu`try. ([ukf bddbkbt ciierts mrc dmrocdy bapessbhdc tenmy

    hckmusc ei tfc b`tc`sc skrutb`y pmssc`ocrs m`n tfcbr hmos

    oct mt mbrperts.)

    Ackfm`bkmd fmrvcstb`o, pru`b`o, m`n km`epy am`mocac`t

    fmvc hcc` b`trenukcn b` mrcms wfcrc fm`ns-e` dmher bs u`mvmbd-mhdc er u`miiernmhdc. Ybtbkudturbsts ke`tb`uc te dcmr` aerc

    mheut few aukf wmtcr tfcbr vb`cs `ccn, m`n wfc` tfcy `ccn bt.

    Xcscmrkf bs e`oeb`o b` sukf mrcms ms trcddbsb`o m`n km`epy

    am`mocac`t, krep demn, pru`b`o, m`n kevcr krep retmtbe`s, mdd

    pmrt ei few vb`cymrn prmktbkcs mrc ke`stm`tdy hcb`o mnmptcn te

    baprevc wb`c qumdbty.

    M`n aeac`tua bs hubdnb`o ier tfc prmktbkc ei sustmb`mhdc

    wb`corewb`o, wfbkf b kduncs erom`bk m`n hbeny`mabk actfens.

    Hy rcpdmkb`o sy`tfctbk pcstbkbncs, fcrhbkbncs, m`n icrtbdbzcrs wbtf

    `mturmd mdtcr`mtbvcs, orewcrs m`n vb`t`crs mrc hcb`o lb`ncr te tfc

    S`btcn [tmtcs ei Macrbkm^fc amp sfews tfc rcdmtbvc cxtc`t ei ormpc orewb`o m`n

    wb`c prenuktbe` ms ei 8:=8. Yb`cymrn mkrcmoc bs obvc` ier

    stmtcs wbtf sbo`bkm`t pdm`tb`os.

    @cw Rerl [tmtc Bkc _b`c

    Irbobn wcmtfcr ke`nbtbe`s b` upstmtc @cw Rerl b` dmtc imdd mddew Dce`mrn Emlcs Cstmtc

    _b`cry, b` tfc @bmomrm Cskmrpac`t MYM, te fmrvcst Ybnmd Hdm`k mitcr tfc ormpcs fmvc

    irezc` e` tfc vb`cs. fc irezc` ormpcs wbdd hc prcsscn te amlc bkc wb`c.

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    23/26

    | MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC=8

    dm`n m`n tfcbr `cbofhers. [eac mrc crcktb`o ewd hexcs m`n

    rmpter pcrkfcs te fest b`sckt- m`n oepfcr-fu`ory hbrns. Kevcr

    kreps prcvc`t sebd cresbe` m`n fest hc`ckbmd b`sckts. [fccp

    ormzb`o e` wccns hctwcc` vb`c rews cdbab`mtc tfc `ccn ier

    kfcabkmd fcrhbkbncs. Keapest rcpdmkcs fmrsf icrtbdbzcrs. _fbdc

    tfc kdbamtc b` seac rcobe`s dbabts orewcrs b` tfcbr rcspe`sc teiu`omd nbscmsc, tfc trc`n mkress tfc keu`try bs te fmvc ms dbttdc

    kfcabkmd bapmkt e` tfc dm`n ms pessbhdc.

    Hy imr tfc aest dmunmhdc ncvcdepac`t bs tfc mkl`ewdcnoac t

    hy orewcrs m`n wb`camlcrs tfmt kcrtmb` ormpc vmrbctbcs ne wcdd

    b` seac pdmkcs hut mrc u`subtcn te etfcrs. Cvcrye`c wm`ts te

    prenukc Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e` m`n/er Zb`et @ebr, Irm`kcs aest

    bapertm`t wb`cs, hut icw rcobe`s fcrc fmvc tfc sebd m`n kdbamtc

    te suppert tfcsc ormpcs. Am`y fmvc dcmr`cn tfbs tfc fmrn wmy

    pcrkc`t mhv er dcss, ^^H mddews tfc pcrkc`tmoc stmtcn te vmry hy ms

    aukf ms =.3 pcrkc`t irea tfc mktumd mdkefed ke`tc`t. ^fus, m wb`c

    dmhcdcn Mdkefed =8.3 pcrkc`t hy veduac km` fmvc m` mktumd mdkefed

    ke`tc`t ei ms dbttdc ms == pcrkc`t er ms aukf ms => pcrkc`t. _b`cs mt

    =>.= pcrkc`t m`n mhevc fmvc m dmhcd tedcrm`kc ei = pcrkc`t.

    Fewcvcr, e`kc m wb`c rcmkfcs =>.= pcrkc`t mktumd mdkefed, tfc dmhcd

    vmrbm`kc km` e`dy oe up< bt km``et oe new`. ^fmt acm`s tfmt m wb`c

    wbtf =>.3 pcrkc`t mhv km``et hc dmhcdcn =;.3 pcrkc`t, hut bt km`

    mktumddy hc ms fbof ms =3.3 pcrkc`t.

    B` 8::=, ^^H hcom` tfc dc`otfy prekcss ei upnmtb`o btsrudcamlb`o rcomrnb`o mpprevcn wb`c ormpc vmrbctmd `macs ier

    S.[. wb`cs. Mt tfc tbac, ity-vc vmrbctbcs wcrc mpprevcn ier

    usc e` dmhcds< am`y etfcrs wbdd dblcdy hc mnncn ms prenukcrs

    cxpcrbac`t wbtf m orewb`o `uahcr ei ormpc typcs b` m` mttcapt

    te amtkf vmrbctbcs wbtf tfcbr sebd m`n kdbamtbk ke`nbtbe`s. _fe

    weudn fmvc tfeuoft tc` ycmrs moe tfmt Kmdbier`bm weudn prenukc

    Or`cr Ycdtdb`cr5

    ^^H fms mdse seuoft aerc prckbsc nc`btbe`s ier sukf tcras ms

    Cstmtc Hettdcn, Xcscrvc, Hmrrcd [cdckt, m`n Edn Yb`c mae`o

    etfcrs, wfbkf fmvc trmnbtbe`mddy hcc` amrlctb`o tcras wbtf dbttdc

    dcomd kdeut. E`c orewcrs edn vb`cs amy hc e`dy tc` ycmrs edn

    (tfeuof tfcy mrc edncr tfm` tfc vb`cs fc pdm`tcn vc ycmrs moe).

    Bts cmsy te `n $> hettdcs ei wb`c wbtf Xcscrvc b` tfc hrm`n `mac,

    amlb`o tfc tcra acm`b`odcss. ^H fms krmklcn new` b` rckc`t

    ycmrs e` tfc usc ei wb`c `macs herrewcn irea Curepcm` wb`c

    rcobe`s. S.[. wb`camlcrs wfe wm`t te dmhcd tfcbr iertbcn rcn wb`cs

    ms Zert km` `e de`ocr ne se u`dcss tfcy wcrc orm`nimtfcrcn b`

    hcierc tfc cw rcoudmtbe` hckmac eikbmd. Hurou`ny, Kfmhdbs,

    [fcrry, Kfmapmo`c, m`n etfcr tcras mrc prefbhbtcn irea usc

    u`dcss wb`crbcs fmvc m de`o fbstery ei usb`o tfcsc tcras. Lerhcds

    Kmdbier`bm Kfmapmo c wbdd ke`tb`uc te dbvc m de`o dbic, cvc`

    tfeuof `e wb`c ke``ebsscur weudn cvcr ke`iusc Lerhcd wbtf Lruo.

    [b`kc =26?, Ke`tmb`s [udtcs dmhcds fmvc hcc` rcqubrcn e`

    mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs ke`tmb`b`o mt dcmst =: pmrts pcr abddbe` ei

    sudtcs, wfbkf mrc uscn ms prcscrvmtbvcs. B` =262, tfc oevcr`ac`t

    hcom` rcqubrb`o mdd wb`c hettdcs te b`kdunc tfbs stmtcac`t, b`

    kmpbtmd dcttcrs7

    OEYCX@AC@^ _MX@B@O7

    (=) MKKEXNB@O E FC [SXOCE@ OC@CXMD, _EAC@ [FESDN

    @E^ NXB@L MDKEFEDBK HCYCXMOC[ NSXB@O ZXCO@M@KR HCKMS[C

    EI ^FC XB[L EI HBX^F NCICK^[.

    (8) KE@[SAZ^BE@ EI MDKEFEDBK HCYCXMOC[ BAZMBX[ RESX

    MHBDB^R ^E NXBYC M KMX EX EZCXM^C AMKFB@CXR, M@N AMR KMS[C

    FCMD^F ZXEHDCA[.

    ^fcrc bs tmdl wbtfb` tfc S.[. Ieen m`n Nruo Mnab`bstrmtbe` tfmt

    wb`cs sfeudn fmvc twe mnnbtbe`md dmhcds hcye`n wfmt bs mdrcmny

    rcqubrcn7 ier b`orcnbc`ts (ycmst, coo wfbtcs uscn ier `b`o, ctk.) m`n

    `utrbtbe`md ke`tc`t (kmderbcs, kmrhefynrmtcs, ctk.), se tfmt

    ke`suacrs l`ew cxmktdy wfmt tfcyrc octtb`o. Ycom`s m`n tfesc

    wbtf kcrtmb` mddcrobcs aboft wm`t te l`ew bi coo wfbtcs er bsb`odmss

    (sf hdmnncr) wcrc uscn te dtcr m wb`c, ier cxmapdc.

    [ukf rcoudmtbe`s fmvc `et yct hcc` put b`te pdmkc, hut b` 8::2,

    rc`comnc Xm`nmdd Ormfa, preprbcter ei He``y Nee` Yb`cymrn b` tfc

    [m`tm Kruz Aeu`tmb`s ei Kmdbier`bm, hcom` dbstb`o tfc b`orcnbc`ts ei

    fbs wb`cs e` tfc hmkl dmhcds. Ormfa mdse nctmbds tfc maeu`t ei

    sudiur nbexbnc ([E8) uscn mt hettdb`o ier ke`suacrs ke`kcr`cn

    mheut bts usc. ^fcsc mrc `ehdc ocsturcs te hc surc, hut Ormfa bs mdse

    twcmlb`o tfc `escs ei tfesc wfe sct wb`c dmhcd pedbky, hy prevbnb`o

    b`ieramtbe` vedu`tmrbdy hcierc tfc oevcr`ac`t tcdds fba fc aust.

    M fm`niud ei etfcr prenukcrs fmvc ieddewcn fbs dcmn, mae`o tfca

    [fb`` Cstmtc e` De`o Bsdm`n.

    He``y Nee` dmhcd

    Zreprbcter Xm`nmdd Ormfa b`kduncs mapdc b`ieramtbe` e` fbs dmhcds,

    spckbiyb`o et e`dy tfc pdm`ct tfc ormpcs wcrc orew` e` hut mdse

    tckf`bkmd b`ieramtbe`, sukf ms cxmkt wb`camlb`o b`orcnbc`ts, tfmt

    aest etfcr wb`crbcs ne`t prevbnc.

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    25/26

    | MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC=>

    [ukf runbac`tmry tckf`bqucs mrc de`o oe`c, rcpdmkcn hy

    actfens tfmt mppdy skbc`kc m`n tckf`edeoy te tfc vb`eus obits

    `mturc prevbncs. Mae o rckc`t trc`ns7 _fbtc ormpcs mrc `e

    de`ocr krusfcn, tfcyrc oc`tdy prcsscn (seac rcn ormpcs mrc tee)

    se tfmt tfc slb`s m`n sccns bapmrt ms dbttdc fmrsf`css ms pessbhdc.

    Hcierc tfc ormpcs rcmkf tfc prcss er krusfcr, tfcy mrc actbku-deusdy sertcn, ackfm`bkmddy m`n/er hy fm`n, te rcaevc u`rbpc

    hcrrbcs m`n sfrbvcdcn rmbsb`s.

    E`kc tfc ormpcs mrc krusfcn er prcsscn, tfc rcsudtb`o ormpc

    aust bs b`ekudmtcn wbtf spckbmd ycmsts er mddewcn te icrac`t e` bts

    ew` wbtf tfc mtbvc ycmsts prcsc`t e` tfc ormpcs m`n b` tfc wb`cry.

    ^feuof rcn wb`cs acm`t ier de o-tcra kcddmrb o `ccn tm``bk

    strukturc, tfc tm``b`s sfeudn hc b`tcormtcn wbtf tfc b`tc`sbty ei

    tfc irubt m`n tfc `mturmd mkbnbty b` tfc ormpcs. ^fc tm``b` dcvcd km`

    hc ke`treddcn hy mngustb`o cdcac`ts ei tfc amkcrmtbe`semlb`o

    tfc gubkc wbtf tfc slb`s m`n seactbacs stcas hcierc m`n/er mitcr

    icrac`tmtbe`. B` seac rcobe`s, bts dcomd te mnn mkbn nurb`o

    wb`camlb`o< b` etfcrs, bts prefbhbtcn. ^fc smac bs truc ier tfc

    tckf`bquc ei mnnb`o suomr nurb`o icrac`tmtbe`, kmddcn kfmptmdbzm-

    tbe`, wfbkf km` b`krcmsc m wb`cs mdkefed ke`tc`t m`n heny. B`

    Kmdbier`bm, bts bddcomd< b` Ercoe`, bts mkkcptmhdc.

    Irc`kf eml hmrrcds ier tfc icrac`tmtbe` m`n mob`o ei wb`c,

    wfbkf kest upwmrn ei $=,::: cmkf ncpc nb`o e` tfc cxkfm`oc

    rmtc, mrc imhudeus ier kcrtmb` wb`cs, obvb`o tfca temst m`n vm`bddm

    mreams m`n mvers m`n dmycrcn tcxturc. Macrbkm` eml hmrrcds

    irea Absseurb, Ab``csetm, m`n etfcr stmtcs kest fmdi ms aukf

    m`n mrc usciud ier wb`cs ier wfbkf tfc wb`camlcr ncsbrcs

    stre`ocr kfmrmktcrbstbks, sukf ms nbdd er keke`ut. B``cr stmvcs,

    kfbps, tcm hmos, m`n etfcr eml prenukts mrc mvmbdmhdc te tfescwfe km`t miiern eml hmrrcds er wfe amlc b`cxpc`sbvc wb`cs ier

    wfbkf hmrrcds mrc eut ei tfc `m`kbmd qucstbe`.

    Abkre-exyoc mtbe` (huhhdb`o mbr b`te wb`c) bs m trbkl te

    trm`siera fbof-tm``b` wb`cs b`te seitcr, aerc mkkcssbhdc e`cs

    tfmt km` hc c`geycn tfc nmy tfcyrc purkfmscn. Ibdtrmtbe`,

    rcvcrsc esaesbs, m`n spb``b`o-ke`c tckf`edeoy km` dewcr tfc

    mdkefed ke`tc`t b` wb`cs, rcaevc wbdnrc saelc tmb`t, m`n

    rcnukc vedmtbdc mkbnbty.

    Rct ier mdd tfbs `cw tckf edeoy, tfc aest mkkeapdbsfcn

    wb`camlcrs prcicr te usc ms dbttdc ei bt ms pessbhdc. Hy seurkb`o

    fbof-qumdbty ormpcs, pbklb`o tfca mt bncmd rbpc`css, fm`ndb`o

    tfca kmrciuddy, icrac`tb`o m`n/er mob`o tfc wb`c b` tfc mppre-prbmtc vcsscds (eitc` wbtf mahbc`t, rmtfcr tfm` keaacrkbmd,

    ycmsts), m`n lccpb`o m ke`stm`t wmtkf b` tfc kcddmr, tfcy smvc

    ae`cym`n krcmtc m `cr, aerc mturmd wb`c.

    Eur Devc Miimbr wbtf _b`cMacrbkm fms hckeac m `mtbe` ei wb`c nrb`lcrs. B` 8:==, bt

    aevcn mfcmn ei Btmdy m`n Irm`kc te hckeac tfc @e. = wb`c-

    ke`suab`o keu`try, purkfmsb`o ;==.; abddbe` =8-hettdc kmscs

    (tfc cqubvmdc`t ei ;.?;3 hbddbe` hettdcs) tfmt ycmr, mkkernb`o te m

    rcpert irea Yb`Cxpe/B`tcr`mtbe`md _b`c & [pbrbt Xcscmrkf.

    ^fc rcpert mdse prcnbktcn tfmt S.[. wb`c ke`suaptbe` weudn

    b`krcmsc =: pcrkc`t hctwcc` 8:== m`n 8:=3.

    B` tfc dmst twe nckmncs er se, wb`c fms aevcn irea tfc

    irb`ocs ei Macrbkm` kudturctfc nrb`l ei cdbtcs m`n baab-

    orm`tste tfc kc`tcr ei tfc tmhdc. Hcttcr amrlctb`o m`n wbncrmvmbdmhbdbty fms seactfb`o te ne wbtf bt7 Odehmdbzmtbe` fms hcc`

    m irbc`n te tfc ieen m`n wb`c b`nustry, wfcttb`o Macrbkm`

    mppctbtcs ier `cw tmstcs. Hut se necs baprevcac`t b`

    Macrbkm` wb`camlb`o. B` mnnbt be`, nbskeu`t rctmbdcrs fmvc

    cxpm`ncn tfcbr scdcktbe`s, amlb`o `c wb`c wbtfb` rcmkf ei

    aerc pcepdc, m`n fu`nrcns ei B`tcr`ct wb`c hdeoocrs fmvc

    sprcmn tfcbr l`ewdcnoc m`n pmssbe`.

    ^fc S`btcn [tmtcs fms mdse hckeac m `mtbe` ei wb`c-

    amlcrstfc werdns ieurtf-dmrocst wb`c prenukcr, trmbdb`o

    e`dy Irm`kc, Btmdy, m`n [pmb`. Kmdbier`bm wms e`kc tfc e`dy stmtc

    b` tfc omac, hut b` 8::8, Zeb`tc ei Ybcw _b`cry wms cstmh-

    dbsfcn b` @ertf Nmletm, bts rst keaacrkbmd wb`cry, amlb`o

    tfmt stmtc tfc itbctf te kdbah mhemrn tfc keu`trys imst-aevb`o

    wb`c prenuktbe` trmb`. Mkkernb`o te _b`csYb`csNM^M, tfcrc

    wcrc ?,;>3 wb`crbcs b` Macrbkm b` 8:=8, m` b`krcmsc ei >3:

    irea tfc prcvbeus ycmr< b` =2?:, gust >>: wb`crbcs krusfcn

    ormpcs b` tfbs keu`try.

    Zrenuktbe` fms semrcn b` rcobe`s eutsbnc tfc trmnbtbe`md

    Kmdbier`bm-Ercoe`-_msfb`ote` trbuavbrmtc, tfm`ls b` pmrt

    te tfc mvmbdmhbdbty ei fyhrbn ormpc vmrbctbcs ncvcdepcn te

    wbtfstm`n kedn tcapcrmturcs, fuabn ke`nbtbe`s, m`n/er kcr tmb`

    pdm`t nbscmscs m`n pcsts. Cvcry ycmr, cw wb`corewb`o mrcms

    mrc hcb`o nbskevcrcn hy vb`cymrnbsts m`n wb`camlcrs wfeu`ncrstm`n tfmt pdm`tb`o spckbk vmrbctbcs b` spckbk pdmkcs

    km` dcmn te qumdbty wb`cs. Reu`o amvcrbkl wb`camlcrs wbtfeut

    nccp peklcts km` c`tcr tfc husb`css hy purkfmsb`o ormpcs

    m`n prekcssb`o tfca mt kustea-krusf wb`crbcs er ke-eps,

    wfcrc tfcy km` dcmsc spmkc m`n cqubpac`t. [ukf imkbdbtbcs

    fmvc mdse obvc` rbsc te samdd-skmdc wb`crbcs dekmtcn b` tfc

    kc`tcrs ei hbo kbtbcs.

    @mtbe`mddy, scvcrmd amger wb`c m`n ieen icstbvmds nrmw

    tfeusm`ns ei wb`c m`n ieen devcrs te tmstb`os, scab`mrs,

    m`n wb`camlcr nb``crsmae`o tfca tfc Ieen & _b`c

    Kdmssbk b` Mspc`, Kedermne< tfc [u` Ymddcy Kc`tcr ier tfc

    Mrts _b`c Muktbe` b` Bnmfe< m`n tfc @mpdcs (Iderbnm)_b`tcr _b`c Icstbvmd.

    _b`c teurbsa bs heeab`o, m`n `et gust b` @mpm, [e`eam,

    _bddmacttc Ymddcy, m`n _mddm _mddm. _b`crbcs tfreuofeut tfc

    S`btcn [tmtcs nrmw vbsbters ier tfc kfm`kc te tmstc tfcbr wb`cs,

    ms wcdd ms ier vb`cymrn m`n kcddmr teurs.

    Bapertm`t kfm`ocs b` tfc dmw fmvc mdse amnc huyb`o wb`c

    cmsbcr. M oreu`nhrcmlb`o S.[. [uprcac Keurt nckbsbe` b`

    8::3, Orm`feda v. Fcmdn, strukl new` dmws b` Abkfbom` m`n

    @cw Rerl [tmtc tfmt amnc bt m krbac ier eut-ei-stmtc prenuk-

    crs te sfbp wb`c te ke`suacrs b` tfesc twe stmtcs wfbdc

  • 7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li

    26/26

    M @E^C E@ ESX [@MZ[FE^[

    pcrabttb`o b`-stmtc wb`crbcs te sfbp te dekmds. ^fc Keurt rudcn

    tfmt sukf nbskrbab`mtbe` vbedmtcn tfc S.[. Keaacrkc Kdmusc,

    wfbkf scrvcs te c`surc m dcvcd pdmyb`o cdn ier husb`csscstfreuofeut tfc keu`try. Hut tfc Keurt nbn`t c`nersc nbrckt

    sfbppb`o pcr sc< bt acrcdy smbn tfmt stmtcs fmn te trcmt b`- m`n

    eut-ei-stmtc prenukcrs tfc smac wmy wfc` bt keacs te sfbppb`o

    wb`cs te ke`suacrs. Ms m rcsudt, m icw stmtcs tfmt prcvbeusdy

    mddewcn tfcbr ew` wb`crbcs te sfbp te stmtc rcsbnc`ts fmvc hm``cn

    sukf ncdbvcrbcs mdteoctfcr, wfbdc etfcrs epc`cn tfc eenomtcs te

    wb`c sfbpac`ts.

    enmy aest stmtcs mddew mt dcmst seac sfbppb`o ei wb`c irea

    prenukcr te ke`suacr, tfcrchy hypmssb`o wfedcsmdcrs m`n

    rctmbdcrs, mdtfeuof seac fmvc rcstrbktbe`s, rcqubrc spckbmd pcrabts,

    m`n/er kfmroc iccs te wb`crbcs m`n tfesc wfe erncr irea tfca.

    B` 8:=8, scvc` stmtcs fmn eutrboft hm`s e` sfbppb`o wb`c m`netfcr mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs7 Mdmhmam, Mrlm`sms, Abssbssbppb,

    Eldmfeam, Zc``sydvm`bm, [eutf Nmletm, m`n Stmf.

    ^fc dmw b` tfbs mrcm rcamb`s m aevb`o tmroct, hut b` aest

    stmtcs, ke`suacrs km` `ew purkfmsc S.[. wb`c e`db`c m`n fmvc bt

    ncdbvcrcn te tfcbr neer, kbrkuavc`tb`o tfc pest-Zrefbhbtbe`

    aencd ei tfc tfrcc-tbcr systca, wfbkf rcqubrcs prenukcrs te

    scdd tfcbr mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs te wfedcsmdcrs, wfe scdd te rctmbd-

    crs/rcstmurmtcurs, wfe scdd te ke`suacrs.

    etfcr stmtcs m`n mreu`n tfc werdn. _btf dekmd m`n mrtbsm`md

    tfc kmtkfwerns ei m rbsb`o kudturmd aevcac`t, tfc heea b` S.[.

    wb`c prenuktbe` b`krcmsb`ody eiicrs seactfb`o ier cvcrye`c, irea

    keddckters ei tfc fbofcst-predc hettdb`os te vbsbters wfe wm t te

    smapdc tfc spckbmdtbcs ei m rcobe` m`n dcmr` aerc mheut wb`c.

    ^freuofeut tfc heel [`mpsfet hexcs prcsc`t kmpsudc b`ieramtbe`

    mheut amger wb`corewb`o rcobe`s. MYMs m`n ourcs ier vb`cymrn

    mkrcmoc m`n wb`crbcs rcckt b`nustry b`ieramtbe` mt tfc tbac

    tfbs heel wc`t te prcss. _fcrc stmtcs ne `et scpmrmtc wb`c ormpc

    mkrcmoc irea tmhdc m`n gubkc-ormpc mkrcmoc, tfbs bs `etcn. B`

    rcobe`s wbtf dew vb`cymrn mkrcmoc m`n/er icw wb`crbcs, [`mpsfet

    kmtcoerbcs amy vmry ier prmktbkmd rcmse`s.

    Aest-pdm`tcn vmrbctbcs mrc dbstcn b` ncskc`nb`o erncr ei

    mkrcmoc< wfcrc mppreprbmtc, hcst vmrbctbcs mrc sb`odcn eut.

    Ier aest rcobe`s, wc fmvc scdcktcn lcy wb`crbcs b` tfc

    kmtcoerbcs ^rmbdhdmzcrs (fbsterbk/cmrdy wb`crbcs b` tfc rcobe`),

    [tcmny fm`ns (ke`sbstc`tdy rcdbmhdc), [upcrstmrs (seac ei tfcaest seuoft-mitcr `macs), m`n E`c te wmtkf (up-m`n-keab`o,

    `cw, er pmrtbkudmrdy b``evmtbvc prenukcrs). @et mdd [`mpsfets

    fmvc cxmapdcs b` mdd ieur kmtcoerbcs.

    M` cvedvb`o mspckt ei wb`camlb`o b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bs

    tfc cstmhdbsfac`t ei MYMs, wfbkf rckeo`bzc wb`c rcobe`s ier

    tfcbr spckbk sebds, kdbamtcs, cdcvmtbe`s, cxpesurcs, m`n fbsterbcs.

    Ms tfbs heel wc`t te prcss, scvcrmd MYM pctbtbe`s dcn wbtf tfc

    Mdkefed m`n ^ehmkke ^mx m`n ^rmnc Hurcmu (^^H) wcrc pc`nb`o