African MarketJonas Elmqvist

African MarketAfter a day of travel through Rwanda over the mountains to Burundi the plains surrounding Bujumbura were opening up for us. High up in the mountains it was cold and rainy but on the plains a nice central African weather meet us. The light was intense, the temperature was about +30c and the air was dry. It had become late afternoon when we were entering Bujumbura.

I was visiting a friend who was an aid worker in Tanzania. I had joined him on a trip to Rwanda and Burundi for about two weeks. This was a golden moment to get close to the central African culture as we were traveling alongside with Boy Scouts and Girl Guides from Burundi.

Tree years earlier in 2005 the civil war in Burundi was ended. Over 300 000 were killed in the 12 years long conflict. The conflict had the same origin as in Rwanda between the two ethnic groups Tutsi and Hutu. In Rewanda that ended up in a genocide. Hundred of thousands machete equipped Hutus had slaughtered over 800 000 Tutsi and moderate Hutu men, women, elder and children in less than 3 months. Would that be as an open wound in the society or would the life go on as usual?

CarryingEverything can be carried on your head. In a land where busses and cars are something you use as a last retread when its not possible to go by your self, everything is carried in your hands or on your head. The later is the only way of carry these heavy things without being worn out.

All these people are carrying merchants in and out, from left, from right. They are crossing streets, loading cars and trucks. Emptying small minivans and there seams to be no end of the work. From air it probably would look like an ants colony.

In a market like this one in Bujumbura there are no big brands or stores. Everything are in a very small scale, the largest market stands are just a few square meters. But a lot of the merchants were not for sale in Bujumbura and there for rerouted out to the countryside after it had changed owners at the market i Bujumbura.

The market it self is a huge roof, about 15 meter high and 100 meters at each side. Inside there are endless amount of small alleys, the most of them 1 meter or even smaller. There are no other way than carry the merchants then in your hand or on your head, if you want them out on the market.

There are very few bags or dedicated carry equipment. Almost everything was carried in its original boxes, simple plastic bags or it was wrapped with some cloth and kept together with small strings.

Business as usualTrade and markets are the economic nerve for all cultures. Some merchants were just possible to buy during some parts of the day and other merchants was available for almost 24-7.

In the beginning I had some problem to find were things were sold. There was no signs and if there were any sign they would probably be in Swahili. But there was a hidden system. Fresh food was outside and everything else were kept inside. Almost every businessmen or women were working in clusters. Fabrics were sold i one place and seed in a other. Very simple when you see the pattern behind the chaos.

MuzungoMuzungo, Muzungo, MUSUNGO!!!I have never felt me so white as I did the first day at the market in Bujumbura. Muzungo is meaning white guy, it can be said in e friendly way or it can be quite aggressive. In any case its hard to ignore. You automatically turn your head around and then everybody is shouting Muzungo after you. This was very refreshing and Im sure that after being called Muzungo a couple of days, I will never call anybody nothing else but their names.

In the name Muzungo, there is a whole palette of associations. Morgan C. Have a clear explonation.

The Rwandans didnt always call white people Muzungo. Back when the Germans were the colonisers, they were called German. The French were the French. Et cetera.

But after World War I, when the Belgians came to take over the territory from the Germans, they were called Abazungu, not Belgians.

Because the verb that Muzungu and Abazungu come from is kuzungura, which means to replace, to take over. Now a days all wester people are called Muzungo.

There are no hurryEverything take its time, and people in Africa know that. Things will be solved but when the sun is high in the sky everything goes slow. Actually there is no problem with it because everybody have the same rhythm.

There are no free mealsIn Burundi you have to take care of you self and your nearest, Building social networks are important. There are practically no social help system at all, you must work to stay alive. The people from Africa I traveled with was ignoring beggars. They felt sorry for them but were not interested to help anybody who not was working for their food.

Actually it was quite seldom I met beggars. In Burundi there are always a job to do, even if it not is so well payed. There are no bottom level how little you can earn, therefor almost everybody are working in one or other way.

When I had been walking the same streets for a couple of days I found people that was sitting or standing on the same spot everyday. The woman sitting on a simple chair or that man standing in the crossing with white shirt and newly polished shoes. What are they doing? They are of course working, opening a gate or having a exchange office in their pocket.

Dark AfricaSome of my friends were really worried when I told them that I was going to Rwanda and Burundi. From a Western view of point there is no more dangerous things to do after visiting a war zone than visiting the black Africa. I dont know what makes so many afraid. Perhaps it is the brutal genocide in 1993 or the fact that every Europe colony were forced out from Africa in the 20th century.

Its true many awful thing have happened in Africa and often it have some connection with history and the old Europe. The most part of Africa are poor if you compare with Europe, but the dreams of young and elder in Burundi are more or less the same as I have, fall in love, get an education, have a good job, having fun with your friends etc. Young people I met in Burundi lived a life quite similar to my life i Sweden, with a exception of the economic wealth.

The history connect Europe culture with African culture. Its easy to adopt and like Africa, the laugh is never far away.