Advance Study 070710

8/8/2019 Advance Study 070710

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ADVANCE STUDY (VICEREGAL LODGE)

SHIMLA

ARCHITECTURAL

APPRAISAL

I.

I.A.THESIS

VIJAYPA

LGULERIA

ROLLNO.

1020


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PREFACE

Shimla, the state capital of Himachal Pradesh has some of the worlds finest

examples of British Colonial architecture. There is the English renaissance inspired

grey stone former Vice Regal Lodge (now the Indian Institute of Advance Study), the

neo-gothic structure of Gaity Theater and the former Imperial Civil Secretariat (now

accountant Generals office, the tudor framed Barne Court (NOW Raj Bhavan), the

Vidhan Sabha and the secretariat of the Govt. of Himachal Pradesh.

Colonial buildings can be found elsewhere in the state , especially in the hill stations

of Kasauli and Dalhousie, But I found this Vice Regal Lodge is one of the best

buildings in Shimla. So the dissertation in its present form is my important effort to

acquire knowledge about the people of that time and to study the art, architecture

and culture of that era.

I am grateful to the persons who inspired to prepare this subject.

VIJAY PAL GULERIA,

I.I.A. THESIS

CONTENTS


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Introduction

1. Social Background

2. Historical Background

3. Traditional Shimla

4. Conclusion

The Institute

Viceroys and Governors General

GLOSSARY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

INTRODUCTION


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Shimla the state capital of Himachal Pradesh , grew from a small village of the early

nineteenth century to become one of the worlds famous towns. Through the two

hundred years that the British ruled India , loved her hated her, bled her or fed her,

and definitely loathed her long, hot summer. From a pastoral settlement, this

become the summer capital of British India in 1864.

Here many moments decision were taken that announced the comi ng of freedom for

India in 1947.

A year, later, state Himachal Pradesh was created and subsequent ly, Shimla become

the capital. In India British constructed so many beautiful and monumental buildings

after Gurkha wars in 1815-16 companys political agent to the hill states visited

Shimla on 6th May,1821 with brothers Gerand And Major Sir William Lloye d.

So the residence of C.P. Kennedy the political agent of the hill states is regarded to

be the first permanent house built in Shimla in 1822. Lord Comberremere the

Commannder in Chief visited Shimla in 1828. He felt behind a road on Jakhoo, the

the hill that towers over Shimla, bridge that still bears his name .

SOCIAL BACKGROUND

To create the enigma of Shimla ,were some vital social ingredients. There were grass

windows young married women spending a season on their own at Shimla. While

their husbands sweltered in the districts, then there were members of fishing fleet -

again young women, but unmarried. They sailed out every year from Britain in search


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of husbands, the unsuccessful ones who sailed back without a wedding band or last

an engagement ring were termed as returned empties.

Famous Annadale Ground

There was more said entertainment to be had from regula r amateur theatrical balls

,picnics and fancy-fairs. There was the Annandale Gymkhana Club which organized

Polo ,Horse riding and Cricket matches. The Duran football tournament started on the

glade of Annadale and was played there till 1947. At Naldera , a little distance from

Shimla is a Golf Course laid out by Lord Curzan.

For all the romancing , real or imaginary, there was the task of governing to be done.

Files exchanged glances with osprey hats and harassed officials vied for space and

flirting couples at the Scandal Point.

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The freedom has a close connection with Shimla in the shape of Allam Octavian

Hume, the founder of Congress. He was living in the town while for mulating the

modalities for its creation. Congress stalwarts like Mahatama Gandhi ,Pandit Nehru,

C.Rajagopalachari and Maulana azad regularily brought public opinion to these

serefied heights. Mohammad Ali Jinnah sneaked in from back door and raided

pantry. A significant event, though post independence ,was the trials of Gandhijis


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advance India towards her goal of full self -government5. The Conference was to

propose the reconstitution of the Viceroy5 s Executive Council. Except for the Viceroy

and the Commander-in-Chief, it was intended to be an entirely Indian Council with an

equal numbers of Hindu and Muslim members.

From 25 June to 14 July 1945 the Conference was held at the Lodge. A widespectrum of Indian political leadership was present - Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru,

Maulana Azad, Liaqat Ali Khan, Bhulabhai Desai, Master Tara Singh and Mohammed

Ali Jinnah. Though Mahatama Gandhi was present in Shimla throughout the

Conference, he did not personally attend any of the sessions. The Conference

staggered on, till everyone, including the Viceroy admitted its failure. What was

perhaps the last chance for India to remain undivided was gone. The War ended and

in March 1946, a Cabinet Mission was sent to negotiate and work out the modalities

by which power could finally be transferred to the Indians. A tripartite conference

between the Congress, the Muslim League and the British took place at Viceregal

Lodge from 5-12 May 1946. Once again, the Congress and the League failed to

agree on many of the main issues, a nd the partition of India was now certain.

In march 1946, a cabinet Mission was sent to negotiate and work out the modalities

by which power could finally be transferred to Indians,. A tripartite conference

between the Congress, Muslim League and British took place at Vice Regal Lodge

and again the Congress and League failed to agree on any of the main issue.


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TRADITIONAL SHIMLA

Shimla stood shored as it were, by the wealth and power of a sub continent. Imperial

grandeur came along for the ride and spectacular imperial edifices dotted the town.

Inspired mainly European models, the traditional Himalayan system of dhajji wall

framing was embellished with Swiss Bavarian Chalet frames and French windows.

Tudora , new gothic , English , Renaissance and Norman Baronial jostled each other

on the seven hills of Shimla. In a word, the piece was electric. Traditionally Dhajji of

wooden pieces were embedded in suc cessive courses of masonry which was very

effective. In earthquakes , locally available stones were mostly used in construction

due to enough availability of wood in Shimla. Wall paneling, ceiling , flooring, roof

trusses and door windows were all in wood . Generally , in pitched roof , C.G.I. sheet

roofing is provided and in rare cases Himachal slate is also provided as a roofing

material. Due to cold climate of Shimla here was the tradition of Fire Places alsowhich was used to maintain the temperature in the building.

Site Plan ofVice Regal Lodge


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Macpherson and T. English. The overall plan of the Lodge was suggested by Lord

Dufferin, who repeatedly examined and mo dified the drawings. The machinery of the

Public Works Department was placed in high gear and work on the site began in

1886. The top of Observatory Hill was leveled out to create a wide plateau. But this

also revealed a surface of crushed shale that wasfissured and cracked in every

direction . To remedy this, concrete was liberally used so as to create a strong base

for the foundations. The structure that finally rose had a style of architecture that

drew inspiration from theEnglish Renaissance

. Yet i t also overwhelmingly reflects

elements of the castles of the Scottish highlands. The building is of light blue -grey

stone masonry with tiled pitch roofing. For the walling stone , mules labored up from

a querry about five miles away. This stone was found to be porous and the Viceregal

custom was transferred to the queries near Sanjayli. For the building itself, tones of

cut stone were hauled up by train of bullock carts that lumbered up from the foothills

near Kalka. The troubles were constants.

Lord and Lady Dufferin moved into the building on 23 July 1888. It was the newly

installed electric lighting in particular that Lady Dufferin found a pleasure. A fortnight

later, the Dufferins gave their first entertainment. Sixty -six people sat down for dinner

at the table, and while the electric light was enough, candelabra were used to

ornament the table. And the large dimensions of the new building could host over

8

guests that were to attend state balls in the coming years.

THE MAGNIFICENT INSIGHT OF THE LODGE

This rambling Scottish baronial edifice was designed by Henry Irvine, architect to the

Public Works Department of the colonial government in India. The south facing

entrance portico sees the visitor into the reception hall.The hall is marked by a grand staircase which springs from the right and spirals up

three full floors. Facing the main entrance is the grand fireplace.

A gallery with well-appointed teak paneling is the central space of the building

around which the other rooms are arranged .The state drawing room, ballroom, and

the wood-paneled dining room decorated with coats of arms of former Governor -


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ch acolorful sunsetfrom a terrace.

In itswhitetiled itchen a definitive advance from the old smo eladen coo house.

Thereis a sardonictouch aboutthedhobiswho inlace of a cold stream to flogand

batter ourwretchedgarmentswould nowhaveto uselaundry.

Waybackin

this odgehadelectriclight when nobodyelsein

himla did


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and, would you believe it, an indoor tennis court!

The lodge had extensive facilities including huge kitchens; separate rooms for storing

table linen, plates, china and glass; laundry; an enormous wine cellar; a room for

empty cases; boilers for central heating and running hot and cold water in the

bathrooms.

ELEVATION CONSTRUCTION TECH.

The Vice Regal Lodge was now almost complete, though some construction

continued till September 1888. Minor works were, nevertheless, to continue for a

much longer time as the hurried construction schedule followed by Lord Duffferin had

left numerous defects. Embellished with wrought stone-work, the main block has

three storeys and the kitchen wing has five. A tower strikes above the rest of thebuilding and its height was increased during Lord Curzon

s tenure (1899 -19

5). In

Lord Irwin s time (1926-31), a public entry building was added in 1927. By this date


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thecharacterofthebuildingwas formed andremains to the-resentday.

Ston

Railin

and Parapet

rettymuch as in elhis Vice egal alace, the Viceroyhostedlavish arties and

entertainedtheroyal rinces and nawabs (governors in the ughal Em ire) in style.


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ITE

I

In so faras theinterioris concerned, itis theelaboratewood-workthathas stoodhe

realtestoftime.

Magnifi

entdouble height ceiling

longwiththe anelingand ilasters, the staircasewithits heavynewels and

handrails is remarkable.

massive shipmentofteakwas procured from Burma for


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this purpose and supplemented,whereverrequired, bylocalcedarwood (deodar)

andwalnut. uringthetime of arquis urzon, manyparts ofthebuildingcamein

forma

orrefurbishing. Thecarvingin thediningroom was completed, and a replica of

the screen thatstoodbehindthe Emperorofhina's thronewas added. In the old

ouncil hamber, thatlaterbecamethebilliards room, portraits ofeveryGovernor-

General and Viceroywerehung.

collection of Indian armswas displayed on the

walls ofthe main gallerywheretheirimpressions are stillvisible.

Beautiful Teak Wooden Ceiling

Thehugeestate of

acres provided a splendid settingforthe fancyfairs and

garden parties. Itwas duringthe Viceroyaltyof ord ansdownethatthecolossaltask

oflandscapingthelawns andgrounds began butitcontinuedduringsucceeding

regimes. Though somewhatsmallertoday, theestateis still a


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Wooden Arcade

Wall Paneling


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All overtheworld ,theequestrian age stilllingered .In

himla onlythreecarriages

andlatercarswerepermitted on the main thoroughfare , THE all. Thesebelongedto

the Viceroy, thecommanderin chief andtheieutenant

governorofthe

un

ab.

or

therestofthepopulation, rickshaws andhorses negotiatedtheroads.

Approach Road

ANDSCAPPING

orthe fancyfairs andgarden parties , thehugeestateprovided a splendid setting.

IncludingthelargechunkofProspectHill and otherpockets ofShimla, ithad an area


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of

acres. Itwas duringtheord

andsdown thatthecolossalthrough undoubtedly

delightfultasklandscapingthelawns andgroundreallybegan.

ViewofLodge

ordCurzon designedtherossepergola andthe ord into leftbehindtheterraces

with stonebalustrades thatareconnectedbysteps.

Today, theestateis somewhatsmallerbut, yetis a princely

0 acres. The numberofpersons on theestate staffis now farfewi.e.

men than the originaltoo. Butthe

collection ofrare andexoticplants and numerous grass is as remarkable as ever. The

glass houseis a shrine foranygardeningasthete.

Currentlymoves are afootto creata unique arboretumwhichwill starton about

acres ofland andbringtogetherawidevarietyof Himalayan andAlpineplants in a

singlecollection.

Awalkalongthelawns and mossymade oflushgrass immaculate flowers beds, a

hostof Banksias roses casuallydraped overa tree, fields ofdaisies andbuttercups,rhododendrons in bloom, highSpanishbroom allleave onewonderingfromwhich

ivyladen nookwillCindrella accompaniedbyan ubiquitous aide-decamp appear.


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changed order. After over a century of a stormy swirl, Shimla paused to catch its

breath. And as it sucked in a suddenly quiter mountain air, it took another look at

Vice Regal Lodge.

For some fifteen years , it did nothing but gaze. The estate has passed into the hands

of the President of India after Independence in 1947, and the spectacular edificehad been renamed Rashtrapati Nivas The Presidential Residence. The one time

cynosure of the British Empire in India, was occupied by the President -if at all for only

a few days in a year. Then Professor Radha Krishanan, that remarkable philosopher -

statesman , took up this august office. Under his and Prime Minister Pandit Jawaher

Lal Nehrus vision on 6 th October,1964, the Indian Institute of Advance Study Society

was registered under the registration of societies Act 186 . Exactly fifty four weeks

later, the Institute was formerly inaugurated by Professor Radhakrishanan at

Rastripati Nivas.

The memorandum of association of the Institute laid out its primary objectives. This

was to provide an environment suitable for academic research in the humanities

and in social and natural sciences.

A host of luminaries stood on the f orecastle of the ship that had been launched with

such solemnity. The President of the society was Dr. Zakir Hussain , Vice President of

India and Shri M.C. Changla, Education Minister ,was its Vice President. Once the

last auspicious coconut had been brok en and the glare of flash bulbs had stopped

blurring the vision, it was left Professor Niharranjan Ray the first Director of the

Institute, to take hold of the tiller and guide a boat that was expected to have many

ports of call, but no final destination not at least till mankind continued to

question.

In 1968 , a bare three years after the Institutes creation , a review committee was

appointed by the Governing body . The committee made the manifest statement that

the countrys first institute of multi disciplinary studies had come to being. It was

pleased to note that by bringing together Fellows in residence, the institute had

actively promoted the interchange of ideas, methodologies and techniques between

scholars belonging to different fields of k nowledge. While paying a glowing tribute toProfessor Niharranjan Ray , the committee recommended that the residential

character , the autonomy and the academic freedom of the Institute should be

preserved.

At that time , the academies at the Institute consisted of Professors, Senior Research

Fellows, Junior Research Fellows, Guest Fellows and Schol ars. The review Committee


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recommended the abolition of this somewhat elaborate hierarchy and suggested that

it has a single category of Fellows. Further, the committee tried to identify areas of

special interest social sciences, historical studies, philosophy and letters, and pure

mathematics. The committee recommended that apart from individual research

group of fellows from different disciplines may undertak e joint research, and a fellow

may be helped by Research assistants for team research. The optimum number of

Fellows at the Institute was placed at fifty. In 1969, these recommendations were

accepted by the Governing body.

Professor Ray was succeeded by Professor V.K. Gokak , who was followed by

Professor Yosuf Hussain Khan. In 1972 , Professor S.C.Dubey was appointed Director

and the five years of his tenure are often termed as the expansive phase. In October

1975,the authorities observed that the institut e had now become internationally

recognized as a centre of high creativity and excellence. Underplaying its

achievements, they noted that it had made a modest contribution to the Indian

communitys discovery of its own identity.

In 1977, the ship had jus t started gathering steam was suddenly, and unexpectedly,

becalmed. Another Review committee under the chairman ship of Professor A.K. Das

Gupta had come to the conclusion that there was hardly any case for the

continuance of the Institute. The committee felt that the output was both

commensurate with the financial outlay and that more than half the fellows had to

failed to leave any evidence of research work at the Institute. It was suggested that

only an attenuated form of the Institute be retained. The supposed failure was felt tobe the result ambiguous objectives, the lack of team spirit, an extent of political and

administrative interference and the isolation of Shimla. Interestingly, of the last, it

may be said that this was an accusation often leve led at the British Government

stationed in Shimla heights.

For all practical purposes, the Report had been prepared single handedly by

Professor Das Gupta. Professor H.D. Sankalia , one of the members, had been unable

to attend a single meeting, while the third member , Shri T.N. Chaturvedi, had given

virtually a note of dissent.

But be that as it may, in June 1979, the Government decided to shut down the

Institute, but the implementation was deferred to March 198

. Subsequently, the

decision again came up for review and after remaining in a state of suspended

animation for seven years, the Institute was able to start fuelling its boilers again in

1984-85.


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On the basis of the recommendations of the Kriplani Committee and decision of the

Government in 1984, the memorandum of Association of the Institute Society was

amended.

Some portion of business of white elephants and ivory towers was finally being

abandoned. The institute was to remain residential centre for free and creativeinquiry into fundamental themes and problems of life and thought. Its primary

objective was defined as the promotion of creative thought in areas which have deep

human significance. A special focus would be on areas of national relevance. The

major spheres of study were defined as the Arts, Literature, Religion, Philosophy,

Education , Culture, Logic and Mathematics, Natural environment, Indian Civilization

, National Integration, World View and Social , Political and Economic Philosophy. An

interdisciplinary approach was to be adopted. There was to be a single category of

fellows who, before relinquishing their fellowship, were required to submit the results

of their research in writing.

The structure of the society and the governing body was also modified . A member of

the Government was to be the President and an eminent scholar was to be the

Chairman of the governing body. On 15 th January 1991, the Prime Minister

inaugurated the Silver Jubilee Celebrations of the Institute. At that time , a

Memorandum of Agreement was sign ed between the University grants Commission

(UGC) and the Institute. By this the Institute has become the Inter University center

for Humanities and Social Sciences on behalf of the UGC . A team project has also

been evolved at the institute, on Socio-Religious movement and cultural networks ofIndian civilization.

Today, the institute has an annual average of thirty fellows. In keeping with its

character, regular seminars and study weeks are conducted and it now has corpses

of almost two hundred publishe d volumes. The library is well stocked and constantly

added to. The building is maintained by CPWD and mov es are afoot to restore it with

the help of experts. The institute is finally moving at full steam.

It is perhaps only a pandemic note that one can end with, and for all these pompous

tones, it remain that scholars are not dispensable and if they have not built thefoundations; is they who strengthen the spine of every society and help give it

direction.


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VICEROYS AND GOVERNORS GENERAL AT VICEREGAL LODGE

1.Marquees of Dufferin (1884 -88)

2.Marquees of Lansdowne (1888 -94)

3.Earl of Elgin (1894 -99)

4. Marquees Curzon (1899 -19

5)

5.Earl of Minto(19

5 -1)

6.Lord Hardings of Penshurst (191

-16)

7.Viscount Chemsford (1916-21)

8.Marquees of Reading(1921-26)


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9.Lord Irwin , Earl of Halifax (1926 -31)

1 .marquees of Willingdon(1931-36)

11.Marquees of Linlithgow (1936 -43)

12 Earl Wavell (1943-47

Earl Mountbatten (April to august,1947)

CONCLUSION

After independence, the Lodge remained the s ummer retreat of the President of

India. In the early 6

s the President of India, Dr. S. Radhakrishnan, a leading

philosopher and writer, and the Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru decided to make it a

scholars den where the best minds would find an ideal re treat. Thats when the

Indian Institute of Advanced Study moved into the Lodge in 1965.

Obviously enough, some of the interiors had to be changed to accommodate the

needs of the Institute. The state drawing room, ballroom, and dining room, for

example, have been converted into a library; the Viceroys office is now the IIAS

Directors office; and the conference hall is now a seminar room for research

scholars.

Without the large contingent of Viceregal attendants and the resources, the

ambience of this large estate is very different from what it used to be in the days of

the Raj.


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The institute seems like the perfect setting for lively intellectual debates and

discussions. The list of Fellows of the Institute includes names the Burmese Nobel

peace prizewinner Aung San Sun Kyi, who was a fellow here in 1986.

Despite all its magnificence the Lodge was abundantly criticized by its occupants.

Lady Curzon found its appearance a trifle ludicrous, calling it a building in which a

Minneapolis millionaire woul d delight. Lord Montague thought it resembled a

Scottish hydro while someone else compared it to Pentonville Prison!

All in all, it was a delightful combination and after the first sh ock, was quite pleasing

to the eye. From these buildings , imperial power poured out the affect the liv es of

millions people from Burma in the east, to Afganistan in the west . Imperial grandeur

came along for the ride and spectacular imperial edifices dotted the town. Inspired

by mainly European Models, the tradi tional Himalayan system of Dhajji wall framing

embellished with British architecture forms and large openings same as French

windows. One reason to construct this building was to provide a learning space for

viceroy another reason was a desire to insulate the rules from European Commercial

interests, the boxwallah immediately after the Mutiny. Also the Military history of

India has always pointed towards a control over plains of North India and Shimla

offered an eerie for observation.

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Advance Study 070710