A Study of the Muga Silk Reelers in the World

8/3/2019 A Study of the Muga Silk Reelers in the World

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Title of the Paper: A Study of the Muga Silk Reelers

in the Worlds biggest Muga Weaving cluster-

Sualkuchi.

Name of the Author: DR. JATINDRA NATH SAIKIA.

Designation: ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR,

Organization: DEAPRTMENT OF HUMAN RESOURCE

MANAGEMENT,

GOLAGHAT COMMERCE COLLEGE, GOLAGHAT,

JYOTI NAGAR, GOLAGHAT,

PIN: 785 621

ASSAM, INDIA.

Mobile: 91-9435151015.

Email: [email protected]


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Study of the Muga Silk Reelers in the

Worlds biggest Muga Weaving cluster-

Sualkuchi.

Dr. Jatindra Nath SaikiaSualkuchi is a small census town in the district of Kamrup, Assam, consisting of two revenue

villages-Sualkuchi and Bamundi Sualkuchi along with the North bank of Brahmaputra near Guwahati,

spread over an area of 12 Sq KM, 4 KM from East to West and 3 KM from North to South. In 1951

census, it was regarded as very large village with a population of 7,598, which has grown to 21, 252 in

2001. In due course, Sualkuchi has grown as Development Block with population more than 1 lakh. The

greater Sualkuchi cluster is consisted of 16 villages, viz. Sualkuchi, Bongsar, Sanpara, Bathan, Srihati,

Gandhmou, Sarulah, Barlah, Kaeyatol, Halogaon, Bamundi, Siliguri, Hardia, Tokradia, Sobangsah and

Ramdia.

Sualkuchi is the busiest Silk Textile Centre of the North Eastern Region of India and it is known as the

Manchester of Assam. The rattle of the fly shuttles normally starts at 8 am and continues till 10 PM

with lunch break from 12 PM to 2 PM. The market of the silk fabric determines the intensity of work

load not only of loom owners but also the weavers and their helpers, yarn winders and other related silk

activities.

It has been observed that since 1951 onwards, silk industry of Sualkuchi has shown a very rapid

growth. Between the years 1981-2001, there has been more than 500% growth in active silk handlooms

at Sualkuchi, from average number of 2 looms/household during the year 1981 to neared 6 handlooms/

household during 2001.


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Objective of the paper: The main objective of this paper is to study the workings of the reelers of

Sualkuchi and the problems that are being faced by them.

Methodology: In order to prepare the paper primary data have been collected by canvassing

questionnaires. Interview schedules have also been widely used to collect required information for the

study. Necessary Primary information have also been collected from different related government

departments.

Since the information/respondents are homogenous, data have been collected by applying random

sampling method. For this study the size of the sample is 20% of the total population (Reelers) and this

will surly represent the total universe.

The collected information have been processed and interpreted them by applying SPSS software.

Before going to discuss about the workings of the reelers in Sualkuchi cluster, let us give a picture of the

activities that are being carried on in the cluster.

Following tables would show a picture of the activities that are being carried on in the Sualkuchi

Cluster.

Table 1

Annual Silk Fabric Production in Sualkuchi

SL

No

Silk Products No of

Looms

Fabric (No of

Lakh Pieces)

Fabric (No of

lakh Sq

mtrs)

Production

Per Annum

(Lakh in

Rupees)

1 Mekhela, Chadar,

Blouse, Parh etc

15017 3.37 18.43 4718

2 Saree 2902 0.78 5.17 1560

3 Than 1216 0.76 6.08 760

4 Khasi Dress 33 0.16 0.40 22

Total 19168 5.07 30.08 7060


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The table given below shows the amount of consumption of raw materials per annum in the Greater

Sualkuchi Cluster.

Table No 2

Raw material Consumption/year

Sl No Particulars Amount of Consumption

1 Mulberry Silk Yarn 268 MT

2 Tasar yarn 26 MT

3 Muga Yarn (23.33 Crores Cocoons) 42 MT

4 Rayon Design Thread 180 MT

5 Jari-Golden/Silver9marks 225 gm) 30,000 marks

6 Dyes 4000 Kg

The total number of persons employed in the Silk sector of the Sualkuchi Cluster is given in the

following table.

Table No 3

Persons engaged in the Silk industry

SL No Particulars Number

1 Loom Owners-Managers 4715

2 Weavers 19168 (Female =10496 & Male

= 8672)


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3 Helpers 7770 (Hired 2148 & Domestic

5622)

4 Yarn winder & Reelers 2271

Total 33924

Source: Directorate of Sericulture, Govt of Assam, Khanapara, Guwahati, Assam.

The total number of Muga Looms in Greater Sualkuchi cluster (including nearby areas) is 2817 as

per the information of the Directorate of Sericulture, government of Assam (2008). The Eri Silk

Cluster, Palasbari-Bijaynagar, which is of close proximity to Sualkuchi Cluster, is also famous for Eri

Spinning and weaving. The close proximity with the Eri Cocoon producing areas of Assam and

Meghalaya, convenient transport and road connectivity with Khasi and garo Hills and other dfferent

areas of the state together with the availability of labour at low cost and marketing facility, made this

place a rare advantage in growing Eri Silk. This Eri Silk Cluster (Muga fabrics are also made here), has

got 25 villages. The major villages dealing with Eri-Muga Silk activities are: Palasbari, Parally,

Bajrapara, Hudumpur, Kukuria, Barkuchi, Sadillapur, majhirgaon-Barupara, Upparhali, and Puran

Katohi. The prominent villages engaged in Eri Silk activities are: Bijoynagar, Rampur, Jiakur, Amtol,

Banka, Kata, Patorikhat, Tejpur-Haru, Tejpur, Satpukhari, Nahira, Guamari, Upparhali, Dakhla, Borihat,

Jharobari and Barduar.

This particular cluster is the single largest deemed Eri exporting cluster in India. Eri Silk fabric

worth around Rs. 3000.00 lakhs is exported annually via Nepal to other Asian countries having

open trade agreement with Nepal.

As per the record of the Directorate of Sericulture, Government of Assam, there are large numbers of

spinner cum-weavers in the cluster. In this cluster also, there are a good number of muga reelers and

muga silk traders. Following table shows the details of silk activities of this cluster:

Table No-4

Components in Palasbari- Bijoynagar Cluster

1. Muga-Eri Cocoon/waste Trading 125 Traders

2. Muga Reeling 250 Reelers


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3 Eri-Muga Spinners-cum-Weavers 12,213 Spinners-Weavers

4 MugaEri Yearn Traders 25 Traders

5 Spun Eri-muga Fabric Traders 50 Traders

The above table shows that there are 125 Muga and Eri Cocoon traders including the wastes. There are

250 Muga reelers in the cluster. The amount of Muga and Eri yarn traders is negligible since only 25

persons are engaged in this activity. The number of Eri-Muga spinner-cum-weavers is very large. The

table shows that 12, 213 persons are engaged in this activity. There are 50 persons exclusively engaged

in Eri-Muga fabric trading in the Palasbari-Bijaynagar Cluster.

Reeling is one of the most important activities in the value chain of every silk industry. The people

who perform this activity is known as Reeler. Reelers produce yarn which is the most important

component for weaving. Without the presence of Reelers, it is simply impossible to think of a

complete value chain in the silk sector.

During the period of our study, we have collected data from 114 Reelers of the Sualkuchi cluster. It is

observed from our study that out of 114 Reelers 62 are in the age group of 20 to 30 years and the age

group only 6 Reelers is above 50 years. Following table shows the details of their age:

Table No: 5

Age of the Reelers

Age of the Reelers Number of Reelers Percentage

20-30 Years 62 54.4

31-40 Years 38 33.3

41-50 Years 08 7.0

More than 50 Years 06 5.3

Total 114 100

The above table reveals that the young generation is interested in silk related activities. Particularly in

reeling activity 100 reelers out of 144 are in the age group of upto 40 years. Out of these reelers only 34

reelers are under matrics and 2 are having post graduate degree also. The table given below details about

their formal level education:


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Table No: 6

Educational Qualification

Educational Qualification Number of reelers Percentage

Under Matrics 34 29.8

H.S.L.C. 30 26.3

H.S. 34 29.8

Graduate 14 12.3

Post graduate 02 1.8

Total 114 100

It is found that out of 114 reelers covered under our study 36 are female and 78 reelers are male. It

means that the reeling job is also male dominated like other silk activity. On the other hand, out of 114

reelers 56.1% has got more than 5 years. In the following table the experience of the reelers of the

Sualkuchi cluster is given below:

Table No 7

Experience of the Reelers

Experience Number of Reelers Percentage

1 Year 04 3.5

1-5 Years 46 40.4


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More than 5 years 64 56.1

Total 114 100

Our study has observed that 16% of the reelers covered by our study is having income source other than

reeling activity and the rest 84% does not have any other income source than reeling.

The reelers of Sualkuchi cluster have to invest money to set up their reeling activity. But a large number

of reelers do not invest any amount in their reeling activity since they are engaged by either the weavers

or traders. From our study, it has been found that out of 114 reelers covered by our study do not invest

any amount. Following table shows the amount invested by the reelers for setting up their reeling

activity.

Table No 8

Amount of Total Investment

Amount Invested No of Reelers Percentage

Less than 1 lakh 14 12.28

Rs, 1 lakh 02 1.8

Rs.1-2 Lakhs 10 8.8

Rs.2.1 -5 lakhs 10 8.8

Rs.5.1-10 lakhs 02 1.8

Not Invested/ Not applicable 76 66.7

Total 114 100

The reelers have to invest for purchasing the raw materials i.e. cocoons. When asked about the amount

of money invested in raw materials per annum, most of the reelers informed us that they do not maintain

proper books of Accounts in this regard. However, from the information so collected about the amount

of money invested by them for purchasing raw materials, a table has been prepared which is given

below:

Table 9


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Investment in Raw materials

Amount of investment in raw materials No of reelers Percentage

Rs.10,000-Rs.50,000 04 3.5

Rs.51,000-Rs.1,00,000 12 10.5

More than Rs.1,00,000 24 21.1

Not calculated 74 64.9

Total 114 100

From the above table it has been revealed that 74% reelers of Sualkuchi cluster covered by our study

have not calculated their amount invested or they are least interested in this regard.

When enquired about the production capacity of the reelers (per annum) they have provided us some

information and depending upon the collected information the following table has been prepared.

Table No. 10

Production capacity of the reelers (Per Annum)

Production capacity of the Reelers No of Reelers Percentage

Less than 10 KG 14 12.3

10-15 KG 48 42.1

16-20 KG 20 17.5

More than 20 KG 32 28.1

Total 114 100

It is also observed that out of 114 reelers 42 are having or owning their own looms for weaving and the

rest 72 reelers do not get engaged in weaving and they do not possess any loom.

It is noted that when asked about the monthly sales turnover, no reeler could provide us that information.

Our study has found that 61.4% of reelers are facing different problems in reeling and 38.6% reelers are

either not facing any problem or they are not aware of them. However, the reelers, who are conscious


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about the problems that are being faced by them, have informed us the types of problems and these are

mentioned in the following table:

Table No 11

Types of Problems

Types of Problems No of reelers Percentage

Lack of Cocoons 12 11

Lack of Quality cocoons 22 19

Financial problems 18 16

Lack of experienced labourers 18 15

Not Applicable/Not facing problem 44 39

Total 114 100

When enquired since how long they have been facing such problems, the information was not uniform

for all the reelers. Their response in this regard is shown in the following table:

Table No 12

Period of Facing Problems

Period of the Problems No of reelers PercentageLess than 1 year 45 39.4

1-3 years 20 17.5

More than 3 years 05 4.3

Not Applicable/Not facingProblem/ Not aware of them

44 38.8

Total 114 100


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From the above table it has been observed that the problems faced by them are of recent times since 65

Muga Reelers are facing problems for the last three years only. The types of problems faced by them

have been mentioned in the table shown earlier.

So far as the location of the buyers of the yarn is concerned 64.9% Reelers informed that their buyers are

of rural areas and only 7% said that their buyers are urban based. 21.1% Reelers do not sell their

products and 7% Reelers said that their buyers hail from both urban and rural areas.

As stated earlier a good number of reelers are having their own looms for weaving. The table given

below shows the number of looms owned by the reelers covered by our study.

Table No. 13

Number of Looms owned

Number of looms owned Number of Reelers Percentage

1-3 Nos 28 24.6

4-5 Nos 10 8.8

More than 5 Nos 04 3.5

Not Applicable 72 63.1

Total 114 100

It is also noteworthy that 96.5% Reelers do not calculate the cost of their product. They sell their

products at the price offered by the buyers. So far as the presence of intermediaries in the silk business is

concerned 63.2% wants their presence and the rest 36.8% does not want any intermediary.

Out of 114 Reelers, only 2 Reelers obtained training on Reeling and that too offered by an NGO and

nobody has obtained any training on marketing. When asked whether they face any problem in selling

their products or not majority of them(96.5%) informed that they do not have any problem in sellingtheir products.

From our study it has been revealed that 82% reelers expect financial help from the government, 4%

want governments interference in controlling the price of cocoons and the rest 28% do not have any

idea the type of help they should seek.


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Out of the total reelers covered by our study 35.15 use their yarn for their own looms and 64.9% sell

their products.

It is also found from our study that 26.3% reelers engage hired labourers for reeling activity and the rest

73.7% does not engage any any labourer from outside.

The number of hired labourers engaged by the reelers is given in the table shown below:

Table No 14

No of Hired labourers engaged

No of Hired labourer

engaged

No of reelers Percentage

Less than 2 Nos 09 7.8

2-3 Nos 10 8.7

4-5 Nos 05 4.3

6-7 Nos 04 3.5

Not applicable 84 73.6

Total 114 100

When asked whether the reelers are able to supply yarn as per the demand in the market, 82%

reelers replied negatively since the demand of Muga yarn is more than the amount of production.

Our study reveals that production of Muga cocoon decreases but the demand of Muga fabrics

increases. So the Reelers are not able to meet the increasing demand og Muga silk yarn

It is known from our study that out of the total number of reelers covered by our study 88.5% is willing

to increase the production and 11.5% reelers have been found to be reluctant to increase their production

capacity.


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It is observed that 101 reelers out of 114 covered by our study have taken up different plans to increase

their production capacity. Following table shows a clear picture of their plans:

Table No. 15

Plan to increase Production capacity

Plans Number of reelers Percentage

Buy more cocoons 14 12.28

Apply for loan to increase capital amount 09 7.82

Use of High Speed machine 78 68.42

Not Applicable 13 11.50

Total 114 100

The above table shows that most of reelers are planning to use high speed reeling machines in order to

increase their production capacity though a few reelers plan to buy more cocoons and to increase their

amount of capital by borrowing from different sources.

It is observed that 63.2% reelers have rated their products as good and the rest 42% opined that their

products are very good. Almost all the reelers think that their products (yarn) is durable enough and the

production cost is reasonable. So far as the quality of the products is concerned 89.5% reelers regard

their products as very good and only 10.5% rate as good.

It is noteworthy that all the reelers have admitted that prior to getting engaged in to the reeling activity

their average income was only between Rs.25,000 to Rs,30,000 per annum and that has increased after

getting engaged in reeling and other silk related activities.


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More than 80% reelers opined that their standard of living has gone up after taking up the reeling and

other silk related activities and less than 20% (19.3%) think that their standard of living has been

indifferent even after getting engaged in reeling and other silk related acitivites.

From this study it has been observed that after engaging in reeling and other silk related activities the

reelers have obtained different household articles. Following table shows the items bought by them by

the income generated out of reeling and other silk related activities during the last three years:

Table No 16

New Items acquired after taking up reeling and other silk related activities

Items acquired Number of reelers Percentage

Paka House 22 19.3

Land 06 5.3

TV Set 04 3.5

Car 02 1.8

Mobile and other small Items 04 3.5

Paka House, land, TV,

Motorcycle etc.

72 63.2

Not acquire anything 04 3.5

From the above table it has been found that only 4 reelers have not acquired any new articles for the last

three years during the period under review. But almost all of them have acquired different articles and

22 reelers have constructed their Paka House. 72 reelers have purchased different costly items apart

from converting their Kecha House into Paka House. This clearly indicates that their standard of living

has gone up because of their engagement in Reeling and other silk related activities. When asked after

taking up this activity whether their standard of living has increased or not, more than 80% (80.7%)

replied positively and only 19.3% either could not realize or is not aware of the standard of living of

their own.


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It is observed by our study that in Muga reeling Bhir is regarded as an important instrument and most of

the reelers live in rural areas are still depending on this traditional instrument to reel the cocoons. From

our study it is found that 68.75% reelers still dependent on Bhir and 16.25% reelers use both Bhir and

CSTRI Machine and the rest 15% are exclusively use CSTRI Machines in order to do their reeling job.

Since the use of Machines in reeling job enhances the production capacity, 68.42% (Table No) reelers

are willing to increase their production capacity by using CSTRI Machines.

The Job Reelers, whose main duty is to reel cocoons supplied by either traders or weavers, earn their

income on contract basis. These reelers do not need to invest money for buying machines and other

infrastructure since everything is provided by the traders or weavers and they do not have any storage

also. But the Master Reelers, who reel cocoons by purchasing and engaging some Job Reelers, possess

one or two cocoon storage rooms and they have to invest a good amount to run theirenterprises.

Problems encountered by the Reelers:

Production of yarn is one of the most important activities in supply chain linkages of the silk

industry. The reelers and spinners, the producers of yarn, generally concentrate in the cocoon

production and weaving clusters. The study found that some of the reelers and spinners produce yarn

independently on their own as a venture and some of them produce yarn on behalf of either the

Master weavers or the traders. The reelers and spinners who do not work for the master weavers or

traders make their own arrangement to buy their required raw materials and those yarn producers,

who work under the master weavers and the traders, are supplied with required cocoons and other

inputs to do their job smoothly. It has been observed by our study that the reelers and the spinners

with sound financial position collect yarn from different yarn producers and sell them in Sualkuchi

and Palasbari-Bijoynagar weaving clusters.

Our study observed that unlike the old generation reelers and spinners the young ones like to use

machines (CSTRI Reeling/Spinning Machines) since the production of yarn with the help of

machines becomes higher than those use the traditional instruments like Takuri or Bhir. We have

observed that machines can produce eight times more than the traditional instruments. It is also

observed that the Eri spinners themselves are the weavers and in this case the question of selling

yarn does not arise. However, following constraints relating to marketing of yarn have been

identified by this study:


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1. The economic condition of most of the reelers spinners is not so sound and a large number ofthem wage earners. So these people can not think of doing business in real sense of the term.

2. As the reelers and spinners economic condition is not very sound they cannot afford toexpand their business. With some exceptions, most of the reelers and the spinners do not

have working capital to buy cocoons. Those who are engaged by the master weavers and

traders obtain wages out of their reeling job.

3. It is observed that the quality of yarn (both Muga and Eri) produced by differentreelers/spinners is not found to be uniform. This impact severely on the quality of fabrics.

4. Though some of the spinners and reelers use CSTRI machines for producing yarn, butmajority of yarn producers still rely on old traditional method of production. Consequently,

they are not able to produce as per the demand many times.

5. There is not any method of standardization of of quality parameters of yarn. Yarn producersare not careful in packing their products too.

The Directorate of Sericulture, Government of Assam, stated that most of the reeling and spinning units

installed in Goalpara and Kamrup districts (including our study cluster- Sualkuchi) with the support of

the state government under different schemes are lying idle due to the lack of support system, linkages

and training.

Conclusion: The golden yellow silk produced by the Muga silkworm Antheraea assama is foundmainly in the North Eastern Region of India. Muga is widely cultivated in the Brahmaputra Valley of

Assam and it is regarded as the endemic to the North Eastern Region (NER) of India since no where in

the world Muga can be grown except the region . Mugas main food plants are Som (Persea bombycina)

and Soalu ( Litsea Polyantha). Muga is semi domesticated in the sense that only the larvae are grown

outdoor on the trees and mature silk worm crawl down the trees when they are picked up and placed

indoors on dry twigs for cocoon spinning. This is cultivated mainly in Assam and a little portion in other

states of the NER of India.

Muga is most precious, durable, warm, strong, lustrous, elegant and the best material for every

woman in Assamese society on every festive occasion including marriage ceremony either in the form

of a Sari or a traditional Mekhela Chadar.


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Though the reelers play a very important role in the silk sector of our country, they are not given

proper importance. In Sualkuchi also reelers are the most neglected parts of the silk sector. Since

Sualkuchi is the biggest Muga weaving cluster in the world, the biggest number of Muga reelers is

working in this cluster. So, the concerned Government department of the state must come forward to

improve their quality of lives. This would also boost the Muga silk sector in the state.

(This research paper is the fruit of a Research Project sponsored by the ICSSR, New Delhi, India

and the author is indebted to the organization for its help).

(Since the entire study is based on Primary data only, no reference is available to

mention).

The paper is exclusively meant for theAsian Journal of Research in Business

Economics and Management for its November, 2011 issue (Print issue).

Title of the Paper: A Study of the Muga Silk Reelers

in the Worlds biggest Muga Weaving cluster-

Sualkuchi.

Name of the Author: DR. JATINDRA NATH SAIKIA.

Designation: ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR,

Organization: DEAPRTMENT OF HUMAN RESOURCE

MANAGEMENT,

GOLAGHAT COMMERCE COLLEGE, GOLAGHAT,

JYOTI NAGAR, GOLAGHAT,


18/18

PIN: 785 621

ASSAM, INDIA.

Mobile: 91-9435151015.

Email: [email protected]

Documents

A Study of the Muga Silk Reelers in the World