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HISTORICTAOS
A Self-Guided Walking Tour of 22
Historic Taos Landmarks
SPONSORED BY
Historic Taos Walking Tour third printing, 2009
TaosVacationGuide.org
architects
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Welcome Visitors and Taoseños!
You are invited to explore the diversity ofthis region through a
self-guided tour. Thetwo-hundred-year-old Taos Plaza and thestreets
that radiate from it like spokes, form theNational Historic
District of Taos. It contains anumber of national and state
landmarks that aretestimonials to the rich and complex cultural
historyof Taos.
The Taos Valley has been a major trade andtravel route since
human presence was first feltin the area. Archeological evidence
suggeststhat people have been using and moving throughthe Taos
Valley for at least the past 9,000 years.
The ancestors of the Pueblo people, com-monly known as the
Anasazi, were the first per-manent inhabitants of the Valley. Room
blocksand pit houses in the Taos area testify to theirpresence
since 900 AD. Around 1200 AD, theyaggregated into small
above-ground structuresof 50-100 rooms.
Many believe the Taos Pueblo was constructedaround 1450 as a
multistory complex. However,archeologists predominantly place the
date ofconstruction of Taos Pueblo in the 14th centuryon or about
1350. Unfortunately, there is noknown recorded date. In any case,
the PuebloIndians depended upon nature for their survival,and
therefore treated nature as an organizingand spiritual element in
their lives.
At the time of the arrival of the Europeans, allof Taos Valley
was in the domain of Taos PuebloIndians. In 1540, Francisco de
Coronado, aSpanish conquistador and explorer, was author-ized to
explore the area by the King of Spain.Francisco de Coronado led the
expedition intoNew Mexico.
After experiencing much resistance from thePueblos of the
region, no further expeditionswere authorized until 1598, when Don
Juan deOñate established a colonial capital at the cur-rent San
Juan Pueblo. Oñate and his soldiersand settlers were awarded titles
and believedthat they would make their fortunes by findinggold,
silver, and mercury (quicksilver). A captainof Oñate’s who was sent
out to look for foodand clothing made the first contact with
thePueblos of Picuris and Taos. The captain’s namewas Hernando de
Alvarado.
During the 1600s, the Spanish strengthenedtheir control in the
Taos Valley and settled inlarge encomiendas (trustees who held a
specificnumber of natives in trust) bordering the RioGrande River.
For many years there was a clashbetween the two cultures with
battles and revolts.
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The Spanish were driven out of Taos at one pointand the
resettlement and reestablishment ofSpanish civil government in Taos
Valley did notoccur again until 1715. After that time, Spanishfocus
shifted from acquisition and exploitationto permanent
settlement.
With this new focus, Hispano settlers interactedextensively with
the Pueblo and other Indianneighbors. The three groups engaged in
trading,informally and through trade fairs. Hispanosbrought many
new types of fruits and vegetablesinto Taos Valley and introduced
livestock to the Pueblos. The Hispanos introduced modernirrigation
systems called acequias, an Arabic wordmeaning irrigation ditch.
The Pueblos taughtthe Hispanos to build with mud and timber. The
Pueblos adopted the Hispanos’ adobe brickmolds and horno ovens
brought from Spain.The land grant system, initiated by the
Spanish,blended with the Pueblo tradition and evolvedinto the
current style of the central plaza andthe surrounding buildings and
churches, for whichTaos Valley is now known.
After the period of Mexican rule, the area wasclaimed as a
territory for the United States in1846. President Fillmore
established New Mexicoas an official territory in 1850, and Taos
becamea county in 1852. Taos Valley flourished duringthis period
and other cultures found their wayinto the territory. Taos was a
very solid tradecenter for the region.
In 1898, two young artists from the East namedErnest
Blumenschein and Bert Phillips discoveredthe valley after their
wagon broke down northof Taos. They decided to stay, captivated by
thebeauty of the area. As word of their discoveryspread throughout
the art community, they werejoined by other associates. In 1915,
six artistsformed the Taos Society of Artists. Soon
otherintellectuals such as Mabel Dodge Luhan andD.H. Lawrence
joined the Taos scene, addinggreatly to the social and intellectual
life of thecommunity. To date Taos is known world-wideby artists,
art patrons, and inquisitive minds whocontinue to find it a mecca
of inspiration.
The history of Taos is a story of change, adap-tation, and the
integration of three cultures thatsimultaneously complicates and
enriches thereality in which Taoseños live today. You areinvited to
explore a small part of this rich historyand culture with the Taos
Historic District self-guided tour. The map and brochure will
assistyou in your journey.
Welcome to Taos, Bien Venidos, and Na-Tah-La-Wamah.
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HISTORIC SITE LISTINGS
Map Page
1 TAOS PLAZA 42 HOTEL LA FONDA DE TAOS 53 OLD COUNTY COURTHOUSE
64 OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE CHURCH 75 GUADALUPE PLAZA
AND SANTISTEVAN HOUSE 9
6 BLUMENSCHEIN HOUSE 107 HARWOOD MUSEUM 118 PADRE MARTINEZ HOUSE
129 LA LOMA PLAZA 1310 LONG JOHN DUNN HOUSE 1611 GOVERNOR BENT
HOUSE 1712 BERT PHILLIPS HOUSE 1813 FECHIN HOUSE 1914 MANBY HOUSE
2015 TAOS INN 2116 EL RINCON TRADING POST 2217 WALTER UFER STUDIO
2318 KIT CARSON HOUSE 2419 LUNA CHAPEL AND SHARP STUDIO 2520 COUSE
HOUSE 2621 MABEL DODGE LUHAN HOUSE 2722 VICTOR HIGGINS HOUSE 28
Locator map on pages 14 -15
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1 HOTEL LA FONDA DE TAOS108 South Plaza
There has been a hotel at this locationsince 1820. The first
establishment, calledthe St. Vrain Mercantile Store, suppliedlocals
and travelers with everything fromtack and seed to rooms and a
saloon. Whilethere were numerous fires in the Plaza, thehotel was
never affected.
In 1880, Aloysius Liebert built theColumbian Hotel and Bar on
the site. It was a popular gathering place.
In 1900, Robert and Maclovia Poolepurchased the hotel and bar
and ran it untilRobert was shot by a disgruntled customerin
1909.
Maclovia Poole’s heirs sold the propertyto the Karavas brothers
in 1932. Theybegan a major renovation in 1937 whenthey expanded and
added a second storyto the complex. They changed the nameto the
Hotel la Fonda de Taos.
In 1952 Saki Karavas, son of JamesKaravas, bought out his
uncle’s share andran the hotel until his death in 1999. Sakiwas an
admirer of D.H. Lawrence andowned many first editions of his
literaryworks. He also purchased a group of controversial paintings
by Lawrence andthese currently hang in the hotel gallery.
The hotel is now owned by the Sahd fam-ily and underwent a
complete renovationin 2002. • 575.758.2211 • lafondataos.com
TAOS PLAZACenter of Taos
The original Spanish settlement of scat-tered farms evolved in
Taos Valley about1615. But in 1680, the settlers were drivenout by
the Pueblo Revolt. Spanish authoritywas not reestablished until
1696 with thereconquest by Don Diego de Vargas. Thearea was firmly
resettled by 1710.
In 1796 the Don Fernando de Taos LandGrant was given to 63
families by the Kingof Spain. This resulted in the establishmentof
the current Taos Plaza and surroundingcommunity. Don Fernando de
Taos becamethe most important settlement in the areaoutside of the
ancient San Geronimo deTaos Pueblo two miles to the north.
Homes were built in large quadrangles,thus offering a
fortress-like structure. Hostileraiding Indians from outside the
Taos areawere thwarted in their attempts to enterthe village.
Sentries stationed at the cornersof the fortified village kept
vigil day andnight. A huge gate offered the only meansof entry and
exit to and from the Plaza.The enclosure served as a refuge for
live-stock at night, and merchants displayedtheir wares there
during trade fairs.
Over the years, there were many fireswithin the Plaza and many
buildings werelost and rebuilt. Because the buildingswere
contiguous, a fire in one usuallyspread to others.
The character of the present structuresaround the Plaza dates
from the 1930s.The current Plaza, with its many shops andgalleries,
is a natural gathering place forlocals and visitors alike. The park
area andGazebo are used extensively for festivalsand civic events
year-round.
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4
TAOS PLAZA, LOOKING NORTHWEST, 1908
ENTRANCE
TO
COLUMBIAN
HOTEL,
1920s
HOTEL
LA FONDA
IN THE
MID-1950s
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3 OLD COUNTY COURTHOUSENorth side of the PlazaOn May 9, 1932,
the Taos County Courthouse,along with the other buildings on the
northside of the Plaza, was destroyed by one ofa series of fires in
the early thirties. This ledeventually to the incorporation of the
Townof Taos in 1939 and the establishment of afire department and
public water system.
The current Spanish-Pueblo style court-house was built with
partial funding from theW.P.A. in 1934. The two-story,
flat-roofedbuilding has a curvilinear parapet, exposedvigas, and an
added portal with carvedbeams, corbels, and wooden posts.
Between 1934 and 1935, interior muralsdepicting social justice
were commissionedby the Works Progress Administration(W.P.A.)
Public Works of Art Project for the courtroom on the second floor.
EmilBisttram had studied fresco painting tech-niques with Diego
Rivera in Mexico andenlisted other Taos artists for this
project.The four artists were Bert Phillips, VictorHiggins, Emil
Bisttram, and Ward Lockwood.The project took three months to
completeand the artists were paid $56 per month.
The murals were restored in 1995 andare still displayed
upstairs. The countyoffices moved to new facilities on Paseodel
Pueblo Sur in 1972 and the old struc-ture was converted to
commercial use.
OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE CHURCH205 Don Fernando Street
The Franciscans founded the first missionin the Taos Valley in
the late 1500s. Thiswas destroyed during the Pueblo Revoltof 1680.
After 1693, when the Spanishcame back into the area, a mission
wasre-founded, as San Gerónimo de Taos atTaos Pueblo.
As settlement continued, the first Spanishchurch was built at
Ranchos de Taos around1776. By the decree of November 1801,Bishop
Olivares of Durango gave the peopleof Taos permission to build a
new churchin Taos Valley.
This new church, named Nuestra Señorade Guadalupe in Don
Fernando de Taos,was built in the early 1800’s. Later, by thedecree
of July 4, 1833, Bishop Zubiria ofDurango made Nuestra Señora
deGuadalupe of Taos a parish. It then becamethe head church or a
visita for the PuebloChurch—San Gerónimo de Taos, and theRanchos de
Taos Church. Padre Martínezwas its first pastor and the parish
itself is the oldest parish in the United Statesdedicated to the
Blessed Virgin Mary underthe title of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
Over the years, there have been threeGuadalupe Church buildings.
All threechurches were built of adobe bricks.
The original church was located south of the current Don
Fernando site, in whatis now the Guadalupe Plaza parking lot. It
was built in Pueblo style with 3-4 footthick walls. The first
structure had a flatroof, but in 1870, a pitched roof was
added.
COURTHOUSE
(CENTER)
PRIOR TO
THE FIRE
OF 1932
W.P.A. MURALS IN PROGRESS, 1934
THE FIRST
CHURCH,
CIRCA 1900
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5 GUADALUPE PLAZA AND SANTISTEVAN HOUSE122 Doña LuzGuadalupe
Plaza was once a thriving villagewhich included the original
GuadalupeChurch of the 1800s. It extended threeblocks to the west
to include Doña Luz,Padre Martínez Lane, and ManzanaresStreet.
The oldest building on the commercialblock of Doña Luz was built
in the 1870s.John Sanchez used this building on thesouth end of
Doña Luz for his law prac-tice in the 1930s.
Other businesses in this building includeda gift shop, artists’
studios, and cafés. Oneof these was the “House of Taos,” whichwas
mentioned in the book The HippiesGuide to Taos. The millstones in
front camefrom an old flour mill in the area. Anotherbuilding was
once the courthouse, jail, andtown garage.
The Santistevan House, located at thenorth end of the block, may
be the oldestresidence on the block. It was already builtwhen Don
José de la Cruz Santistevan andhis wife Dona Maria Gregorita
Hernándezde Santistevan arrived from Spain in theearly 1800s. They
first settled in Los Coloniasand raised five children. The estate
on DoñaLuz eventually became their winter home.
Originally, this property had a well in thecourtyard and
portions of the rooms wereonce used as a hotel. Other uses
includeda lawyer’s office, a fish market, a clothingstore, and
several restaurants. The buildingwas recently renovated and care
was takento restore the character of the originalelements of the
Santistevan House. It nowhouses LDG Architects •
575.751.9481•ldgtaos.com and Antonio’s Restaurant.• 575.751.4800 •
antoniosoftaos.com
In 1911, due to disrepair and limitedsize, the church was torn
down. A newchurch was built in Gothic style. It servedthe community
for 50 years until it wasdestroyed by fire in June 1961.
After that disaster, the church was movedacross the street to
its current location, on the north side of Don Fernando
Street.Fortunately many elements of the oldchurch were salvaged—the
altar screenand several santos. The painting of OurLady of
Guadalupe, which is on the mainaltar, was painted by José Santiago
in1674. This was a gift from Mexico to PadreMartínez. A large
wooden crucifix, to theside of the altar, was created by
JoséAragon, one of the pioneers of the santosmakers in Northern New
Mexico. All thesefeatures have been incorporated into thenew church
design. • 575.758.9208
PAINTING BY
JOSE SANTIAGO,
1674, HAS HUNG
IN ALL THREE
CHURCHES
THE SECOND
CHURCH
AND PLAZA,
CORPUS
CHRISTI
PROCESSION
1916
COURTYARD
OF THE
HOUSE, n.d.
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7 HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART238 Ledoux StreetThe Ledoux Street
neighborhood, wherethe Harwood Museum stands, probablyhad its first
adobe houses built in the earlypart of the nineteenth century.
There werebuildings standing on what would laterbecome the Harwood
property when SmithH. Simpson acquired it in 1861.
Simpson had come west to serve in amilitary campaign against the
Ute Indians,and later worked as a clerk for the nearlyilliterate
Kit Carson. After Simpson’s deathin 1916, his heirs sold their
family houseto Burritt and Elizabeth Harwood.
From 1917 to 1924, the Harwoodsacquired three additional parcels
on theeast side and one more on the west. In1918, they renovated
the buildings andcalled the complex “El Pueblito,” since its design
was strongly influenced by thearchitecture of Taos Pueblo.
In 1923, a year after her husband’s death,Elizabeth Harwood,
joined by members of the art and business community, BertPhillips,
T.P. Martin, Victor Higgins, WilliamM. Frayne, and B.G. Randall,
created whatwould become one of New Mexico’s mostenduring art
institutions, the HarwoodFoundation.
In 1929, the Harwood and the Universityof New Mexico developed a
partnershipthat existed up to 1937, at which timeownership was
transferred to the University.
Elizabeth retained her residence in theHarwood until her death
in 1938. Her visionof turning their home into an art
center,cultural center, and library for northernNew Mexico had been
achieved.
In 1998, after relocation of the townlibrary which was housed in
the structure,the Harwood building was renovated andrenamed the
Harwood Museum. It hasbeen referred to as the “jewel in thecrown”
of Northern New Mexico. 575.758.9826 • harwoodmuseum.org
BLUMENSCHEIN HOUSE222 Ledoux Street
In 1919 Ernest Blumenschein, one of thefounders of the Taos Art
Colony, purchaseda four-room house on Ledoux Street fromfellow
artist W. Herbert “Buck” Dunton.Later the Blumenscheins acquired
severaladjoining rooms and adapted the hometo its present layout in
1931. Ernest andhis wife Mary, both European trainedartists, were
accomplished painters. Theirdaughter Helen was also an artist.
According to history, in 1898 Blumenscheinwas traveling through
the Southwest withBert Phillips. The two men were youngartists from
the East on a sketching tripfrom Denver to Mexico.
While crossing northern New Mexico, awheel from their surrey
slipped into a deeprut and broke. Blumenschein rode 23 milesinto
Taos to have the wheel repaired.They remained in the area for two
months,becoming so entranced with the beautyof Taos Valley that
they decided to makeit their home.
By 1915, Blumenschein and Bert Phillipswere joined in Taos by
fellow artists JosephSharp, Oscar Berninghaus, E. Irving Couse,and
W. Herbert “Buck” Dunton. Togetherthey created the Taos Society of
Artists to promote their work across the country.This original
group of artists was instrumen-tal in developing Taos into a
significantAmerican art colony. • 575.758.0505
•taoshistoricmuseums.com
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VIEW OF
HOME FROM
LEDOUX
STREET,
1925
“BLUMIE”
WITH BROKEN
SURREY
WHEEL,
PHOTO
BY BERT
PHILLIPS,
1898 COMPOUND FROM THE WEST, CIRCA 1934
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8 PADRE MARTÍNEZ HOUSE108-A Padre Martínez Lane(Private
residence—please do not disturb the occupants.)
In 1835 Padre Martínez acquired whatsome historians claim was
the first printingpress west of the Mississippi. On it, hepublished
the first books and a newspaper.From his home this visionary
operated acoeducational school, a seminary, and inanticipation of
annexation by the U.S., alaw school, drawing students from
promi-nent families throughout the region.
Aside from training a generation ofleaders, Martínez himself
served regularlyin the Mexican territorial assembly. As oneof the
first New Mexicans to become anAmerican citizen, he was elected
presidentof the initial territorial constitutional con-ventions and
the upper house of the FirstLegislative Assembly.
As a powerful defender of the existingpopulations, the friction
generated by thetransition to American rule inevitably ledMartínez
to clash with certain representa-tives of the new order,
includingGovernor Bent.
In spite of this, Martínez provided refugeto survivors of the
revolt of 1847, and per-mitted the American army to
headquarteritself in this house.
Conflicts with Archbishop Lamy, of thenewly created Archbishop
of Santa Fe,led to Martínez’ excommunication, whichmany consider to
have been invalid.However, Padre Martínez continued tominister to
his people from his privatechapel until his death in 1867.
The Padre Martínez home is a privateresidence, owned by one of
his numerous,direct descendants. The grounds are closedto the
public, but visitors are invited totour the virtual museum and
library atpadremartinez.org.
LA LOMA PLAZAOn the north side of Ranchitos Roadjust west of the
Salazar intersection
La Loma Plaza was one of the first settle-ments in the Taos
area, established in the1870s by settlers of the Don Fernando
deTaos land grant.
This plaza was built as an enclosure of homes with common walls,
creating a defensive style plaza for the inhabitants.Most homes had
their own wells and gardens. Teams of horses, cows, pigs, and
chickens were kept in corrals in backof the houses.
The families that settled in this compoundwere some of the
founding fathers andartists of the community.
In 1874-75, Gabriel Jeantet (now spelledJeantete) and his son
Filiberto Jeantet(great grandfather and grandfather toEloy
Jeantete) along with members of thecommunity, built the San Antonio
Chapel,which is on the north side of the Plaza.Following a written
petition by communitymembers, Archbishop Lamy blessed thechurch in
October of 1876.
Today, most of the houses have beenrestored and the quiet,
peaceful characterof the plaza still exists.
THE SAN ANTONIO CHAPEL ON LA LOMA PLAZA
12
COMPOUND
AS SEEN
FROM THE
EAST, 1970s
LA LOMA
PLAZA,
SEEN FROM
THE WEST,
CIRCA 1910
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1514
LA LOMITA
RD.
PLAZA
Taos Center for the Arts
Taos CivicPlaza &
ConventionCenter
Kit CarsonMemorial Park
T A O S H I S T O R I C D I S T R I C T
Kit CarsonCemetery
Library
QUESNEL RD.
CAMI
NO DE
LA PL
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BENT ST. DON FERNANDO ST.
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Paved RoadsUnpaved RoadsPost OfficePublic ParkingRestroomsTaos
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HISTORIC TAOS 1 TAOS PLAZA2 HOTEL LA FONDA DE TAOS3 OLD COUNTY
COURTHOUSE4 OUR LADY OF GUADALUPE CHURCH5 GUADALUPE PLAZA AND
SANTISTEVAN HOUSE6 BLUMENSCHEIN HOUSE7 HARWOOD MUSEUM8 PADRE
MARTINEZ HOUSE9 LA LOMA PLAZA10 LONG JOHN DUNN HOUSE11 GOVERNOR
BENT HOUSE12 BERT PHILLIPS HOUSE13 FECHIN HOUSE14 MANBY HOUSE15
TAOS INN16 EL RINCON TRADING POST17 WALTER UFER STUDIO18 KIT CARSON
HOUSE19 LUNA CHAPEL AND SHARP STUDIO20 COUSE HOUSE21 MABEL DODGE
LUHAN HOUSE22 VICTOR HIGGINS HOUSE
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10 11 GOVERNOR BENT HOUSE117 Bent StreetCharles Bent was
appointed Governor ofNew Mexico in 1846 when New Mexicobecame an
American territory during thewar between the United States and
Mexico.On a visit to his home in Taos in Januaryof 1847, he was
killed by an angry mobthat was protesting American rule. Hiswife
and children survived the attack.
The new Anglo-American governmentwas symbolized by, and embodied
in, itsfirst governor, and it is for those very rea-sons that he
was murdered. It was a clashof cultures and a reaction against
theupstarts who took over what had beenNative American, then
Spanish, and then,comparatively briefly, Mexican. Suddenly,it was
American. Just as suddenly, thatnew government’s representative lay
dead.
Charles Bent was a highly respected,much-loved figure of the Old
West. Hewas a trader and owned a number ofwagon trains on the Santa
Fe Trail. Heowned trading posts in Santa Fe and Taosand had many
dealings with early moun-tain men, providing them with suppliesand
buying their furs and buffalo hides.
Today the Governor Bent House is aprivate museum open to the
public. • 575.758.2376
LONG JOHN DUNN HOUSE120 Bent Street
In 1887 John Dunn arrived in Taos. He hadevaded the law in Texas
and was lookingfor someplace to settle in for awhile.
Over the years John Dunn opened upfour saloons, a gambling hall,
a livery stable,and built a house on Bent Street.
He bought the bridge at Taos Junctionfrom a man named Myers and
the newbridge at Manby Springs in Arroyo Hondofrom Miller and
Gusdorf. Both bridges werewiped out by floods. But John Dunn
rebuiltthe bridges and contracted with the PostOffice to run daily
mail service from TresPiedres to Taos.
On his mail route, which includedEmbudo and Taos Junction, much
of theparcel post was paintings and paintingsupplies for the
artists who had begun to arrive in the area.
To establish his passenger and freightbusiness, he put up $2,500
of his ownmoney and passed the hat to raise anoth-er $2,500. His
toll bridges across the RioGrande gave Dunn a monopoly on
roadtravel in and out of town. He set up a hotelat the Dunn Bridge
and called it “The BridgeHotel.” He owned the first car in Taos—a
Ford.
Long John Dunn’s lanky six-foot frame,spicy vocabulary, broken
nose twang, anddiverse range of business interests madehim a legend
in northern New Mexico. Hewas one of the people who lived
throughthree phases of the West—the gun-fightingdays, the
cattle-working days, and thepresent modern West. He died in
1955.
Today Long John Dunn’s house is the siteof the John Dunn Shops.•
johndunnshops.com
JOHN DUNN AT THE SERVILLETA RAILROAD STATION GOVERNOR CHARLES
BENT
16
NORTH SIDE
OF THE
DUNN HOUSE
PRIOR TO
CURRENT
RENOVATIONS,
1960s
GATEWAY
INTO THE
BENT HOUSE
COMPOUND
FROM THE
SOUTH, n.d.
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12FECHIN HOUSE227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
One of the architectural treasures of Taosis the house of
Nicolai Fechin (1881-1955)who was born in Kazan, Russia. Fechin
wasan established artist who immigrated toNew York City in
1923.
After a summer visit to the Mabel DodgeLuhan House in 1926, he
moved to Taosthe next year. He immediately began con-structing his
home and studio, which isprized for its interior carvings and
hand-crafted furniture.
Fechin lived in Taos for just six years withhis wife and
daughter before a divorcesplit up his family. Nicholai moved back
to New York and then on to Santa Monica,California, where he died
in 1955.
After her parents’ deaths, their daughter,Eya, promoted the
preservation of theirTaos home, acting as caretaker for 30
years.Following her death in 2002, it was acquir-ed by the Taos Art
Museum.575.758.2690 • taosartmuseum.org
BERT PHILLIPS HOUSE136 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
Bert Phillips’ house was built in the early1800s and remodeled
by Phillips in 1905with the addition of a studio and squaretower
loft to the north end of the building.
Bert Geer Phillips (1868-1956) was bornin Hudson, New York, and
studied art atthe Art Students League and the NationalAcademy of
Design, then at the AcadémieJulian in Paris. In 1898, at the age of
thirty,he was the first Eastern artist to make hishome in Taos,
where he would remain untilshortly before his death in 1956.
He was traveling on a drawing expeditionin the Southwest region
with his friend,Ernest Blumenschein, when their surreybroke down.
Repairs were made by thenearest blacksmith, 23 miles to the southin
Taos. The two artists stayed in the areafor two months, captivated
by the beautyof the valley.
When it came time to leave, Blumenscheindeparted for the East,
intending eventuallyto return. Phillips, on the other hand,
mar-ried Rose Martin, sister of the local doctor,and never left. He
settled into his newhome and played an aggressive role inpromoting
Taos as an art mecca.
Until Phillips was able to firmly establishhis own reputation as
an artist, he supple-mented his income by buying and sellingIndian
artifacts, developing mining interestsat Twining, and working as a
forest ranger.He was instrumental in the creation ofCarson National
Forest. He was alsoinstrumental in the establishment of theTaos
Society of Artists in 1915. He was a charter member and its first
secretary. In 1933-34 he painted one of the W.P.A.murals in the
County Courthouse, alongwith Victor Higgins, Emil Bistram, andWard
Lockwood.
The Phillips house is located on Paseodel Pueblo Norte (formerly
Pueblo Road),across from the property of his brother-in-law, Dr.
Martin, and that of Arthur Manby.Although it has been converted to
com-mercial use, it is readily recognizable bythe studio and square
tower loft that Phillipsadded to the north end of the building.
18 19
VIEW OF
HOUSE FROM
PASEO DEL
PUEBLO
NORTE
(FORMERY
PUEBLO ROAD)
AND BENT
STREET, 1960s
SOUTH
FACADE
AND LIVING
ROOM ARE
MUCH THE
SAME TODAY
AS IN THE
1930s WHEN
FECHIN
LEFT TAOS
-
21
15
14
TAOS INN125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
The town doctor, T.P. Martin, initially purchased one house from
a cluster of oldadobes around a small plazuella, anchoredby a
community well. The original buildingdates back to the early 1800s
and was onceowned by Arthur Manby.
The doctor and his second wife, Helen,eventually acquired all of
these housesand named the complex the MartinApartments. The doctor
and his wife livedin the northern part of the complex andDoc set up
his practice in what is now DocMartin’s Restaurant. One of the
sectionsof the dining room was the operating room.In exchange for
his services, Doc wasknown to accept goats, chickens, or produceas
payment.
The Martins were involved in the emerg-ing art community. Dr.
Martin’s sister, Rose,married artist Bert Phillips, and in the
early days of the colony, the Martins rentedstudio/apartments to
visiting artistsincluding Oscar Berninghaus and ErnestBlumenschein.
In 1915, six artists met inthe Martin studio occupied by
Berninghausto form the Taos Society of Artists.
When Doc Martin died in 1933, Helentook advantage of the
increasing flow ofvisitors to the area and the fact that themajor
hotel in town had burned downearlier that year. She remodeled the
MartinApartments into the Hotel Martin, addingindoor plumbing,
electricity, and steamheat. She also roofed over the
enclosedplazuella, creating a vaulted lobby. Thewell was covered
and converted into afountain.
Over the years, the hotel lodged manycelebrities, including such
notables as GretaGarbo, Thorton Wilder, and Anthony Quinn.•
575.758.2233 • taosinn.com
MANBY HOUSE133 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
Arthur Rochford Manby was the secondson of English nobility, who
came to theUnited States to make his fortune. Usingwhat were
thought to be unscrupulousmethods, he acquired major tracts of
landin northern New Mexico.
In 1898, he bought seven parcels of land,about 23 acres, on
Paseo del Pueblo northof the Plaza. He built a
nineteen-roomSpanish-style adobe hacienda, set in asquare with
three wings, stables, and outerwalls. Manby landscaped the hacienda
inthe English style, with a lilac garden thatextended to what is
now Kit Carson Park.
At the time, Manby’s home was consid-ered the largest and most
attractive housein Taos. He was often seen in town wearinghis
English Riding attire, an unusual sightfor the traditional
Southwestern cowboy.
Due to his many shady dealings, Manbywas not a popular man. In
1926, a beheadedbody was found in his home. To this day itis
uncertain whether this was Manby orwhether he had staged his own
death andleft the area. His grave marker lies outsidethe fence of
Kit Carson Cemetery, whichholds many graves and of famous
Taoseñosand is open to the public.
The Manby house passed to Dr. VictorThorne, a wealthy New York
art collector,who held a second mortgage on the prop-erty. Thorne
had hoped to use the houseas a summer home but never did so. Whenhe
died suddenly without a will, his care-taker, Helen Williams,
turned the propertyinto a community center called the ThorneHouse.
The Taos Art Association, which wasfounded in 1952, purchased the
propertyand turned it into a museum and artistgallery space.
Today, the Manby house includes theStables Gallery and offices
of the TaosCenter for the Arts. • 575.758.2052 •tcataos.org
20
ENTRANCE
TO THE LILAC
GARDEN FROM
PASEO DEL
PUEBLO
NORTE
(FORMERY
PUEBLO ROAD),
CIRCA 1910
WEST SIDE OF TAOS INN, CIRCA 1940
-
2322
17 WALTER UFER STUDIOOn Des Georges LaneThe studio of Walter
Ufer, situated justeast of the plaza, was incorporated intothe back
of the shopping complex knownas Cabot Plaza when that building
wasremodeled into shops.
Walter Ufer (1876-1936) made his firsttrip to New Mexico in 1914
under thesponsorship of a group of art collectorsled by Chicago’s
former mayor, CarterHarrison, Jr. He soon made his home inTaos,
living in a lovely Victorian house rent-ed from the Des Georges
family, locatedacross the lane from his studio. In 1917,Ufer was
elected to the Taos Society ofArtists, serving two years as its
secretary/treasurer and two years as its president.
Born in 1876, Ufer was raised in Louisville,Kentucky. After
studying art for a coupleof years at the Royal Academy in
Dresden,he settled in Chicago, where he workedas an illustrator. In
1911 he returned toGermany for further study in Munich. Aftermoving
to Taos, he received wide acclaimfor his paintings depicting the
brilliant lightof New Mexico. He died of appendicitisin 1936. The
studio was next used byHenry Cabot.
EL RINCON TRADING POST114 Kit Carson Road
Built in 1809, this was the home of La DoñaLuz in the mid-1800s.
It later became thehome of Ralph and Rowena Meyers, whoopened the
Mission Shop in 1909.
This was the first trading post in Taosthat carried Native
American arts and craftsof the region. Ralph traveled to the
sur-rounding reservations, buying and tradingwith knowledge and
understanding. Fewwhite men were as well loved and acceptedby the
Taos Pueblo Indians.
Ralph Meyers was an artist, trader and acraftsman in his own
right. He came to Taosas a photographer, but was soon
developinginto an artist. He created exquisite carvingsand
furniture, studied dyes from all overthe world, wove magnificent
blankets, andmade fine jewelry. He even taught Navajosthe craft of
jewelry making during theW.P.A. days.
Ralph and Rowena Meyers were respon-sible for adding much to
Taos by preservingthe costumes and traditions of the time within
his collections. He also developed a wonderful photographic archive
of Taos history.
Currently, the El Rincón Trading Post isa gift shop and museum,
which includesEl Rincón Bed & Breakfast. It is still ownedand
operated by descendants of Ralphand Rowena Meyers. • 575.758.4874 •
elrincontaos.com
´
WALTER UFER
STANDING
ON PASEO
DEL PUEBLO
NORTE
(FORMERY
PUEBLO ROAD)
16
VIEW FROM
KIT CARSON
ROAD,
CIRCA 1920
INTERIOR
OF THE
MISSION
SHOP,
CIRCA 1920
GATEWAY TO
THE STUDIO,
PRE-1970
-
2524
19
18
LUNA CHAPEL AND SHARP STUDIO146 Kit Carson Road
The Oratorio of San Antonio of Padua wasbuilt by Juan de Luna as
a family chapelca. 1835. Because of its occasional use forPenitente
ceremonies, this family chapelis sometimes mistakenly referred to
as aPenitente Morada. Its ownership eventuallypassed to the Diocese
of Santa Fe, and itwas sold in 1909 to the artist J. H. Sharp.
By adding two large windows, Sharpconverted the building into a
studio,naming it the Studio of the Copper Bellafter an old bell
that he bought at thePueblo in 1910. The land to the north ofthe
chapel was Sharp’s front garden andhis house was located on the
site nowoccupied by the Mission Gallery. Afterpainting in the
chapel for six years, Sharpbuilt a larger studio on his property to
the south, a building that still exists.
Joseph Henry Sharp (1859-1953) wasborn in Bridgeport, Ohio. He
began his artstudies at the McMicken School of Designin Cincinnati
and continued his studies inGermany, Holland, and France.
Sharp first visited Taos in 1893, wherehe continued to paint for
short periodsduring the summers, while devoting hismajor artistic
efforts to recording thePlains Indians in Montana.
By 1909 the focus of his work had shiftedto the Southwest and he
purchased a houseon Kit Carson Road that was his home untilhis
death. Sharp was a charter member ofthe Taos Society of
Artists.
The chapel is now owned and preservedby The Couse Foundation and
Museum.Tours by appointment only.• 575.751.0369 •
cousefoundation.org
KIT CARSON HOUSE 113 Kit Carson Road
During the 19th century, a number of thefur trappers or
“mountain men,” the firstAnglo-Americans to explore the
AmericanWest, settled in Northern New Mexico.Of these mountain men,
Kit Carson wasperhaps the most famous.
Born in Kentucky in 1809, Carson was a trapper, guide, Indian
agent, and Armyofficer. In 1861, Carson began the finalstage of his
career as a military officer, firstin the Civil War and later in
the campaignsof the Indian Wars.
In 1843, when he married Maria JosefaJaramillo, daughter of a
prominent Taosfamily, Carson bought a single story adobehouse. At
least six of their eight childrenwere born there.
After Carson died in Colorado in 1868,his body was brought back
to Taos andburied in Kit Carson Park.
The Carson house was both his homeand a fine example of Spanish
Colonial andTerritorial architectural features. Now theKit Carson
Museum, it is open to thepublic and owned and operated by Taos
Masonic Lodge. • 575.758.4945
STREET VIEW
OF THE
HOUSE
IN 1910
CHRISTOPHER
HOUSTON
“KIT” CARSON
CHAPEL
STUDIO
WITH HOUSE
IN THE
BACK-
GROUND,
CIRCA 1935
-
27
20
MABEL DODGE LUHAN HOUSE240 Morada Lane
Mabel Ganson Evans Dodge Sterne Luhan,an author and friend of
prominent artistsand intellectuals, was born in New York in1879.
She was well-known in the New Yorkart scene, holding salons for
artists andwriters, before moving to Santa Fe in 1917to join her
third husband, painter MauriceSterne.
After moving to Taos, they divorced andMabel bought land
adjoining the TaosReservation in 1918. She began to remodeland
expand the small buildings, blendingPueblo, Spanish Colonial, and
Tuscan stylestogether. The project was finished in 1922.
During construction, she met her nexthusband, Tony Luhan of Taos
Pueblo, whowas the construction foreman of the project.She later
built five more houses on theproperty and this complex became
amecca for artists and writers, includingD.H. Lawrence and Willa
Cather.
The house is now an historic inn andconference center. •
575.751.9686 •mabeldodgeluhan.com
COUSE HOUSE146 Kit Carson Road
E.I. Couse bought his home on Kit CarsonRoad in 1909. The oldest
part of the struc-ture was built in 1839 by Pedro Luna andgrew over
the years with additions madeby later owners, one of whom was
JamesQuinn, a scout captain serving with KitCarson in the 1850s. In
the 1860s thehouse was occupied by Gabriel Ussel, theparish priest,
who used it as a boys schoolfor several years. After their purchase
in1909, the Couses added a large studiowing and Mrs. Couse began to
develop agarden that became famous in the region.No additions to
the house have been madesince Couse’s death in 1936.
Eanger Irving Couse (1866-1936) cameto Taos in 1902 in search of
a good locationto paint Native American subjects. The settingwas
ideal for his work and he made Taoshis primary residence from that
point on.
Couse was born in Saginaw, Michigan,in 1866. He studied art at
the NationalAcademy of Design in New York and at theAcademié Julian
in Paris, after which hebegan his career as a painter of
AmericanIndians while living in the state of Washington.
In 1902, he was introduced to Taos byErnest Blumenschein. Here
he developed a
worldwide reputationfor his peaceful depic-tions of Pueblo
life.He was particularlyadmired for his por-trayals of moonlightand
firelight, many of which were repro-duced on the SantaFe Railway’s
annualcalendars between1914 and the artist’sdeath. Couse was a
charter member of the Taos Society ofArtists and its first
president, a position he held for five years.
The Couse house remains today essentiallyas it was during the
artist’s lifetime, making itthe most significant building to
survive fromthe early days of the Taos Art Colony. It is open to
the public by appointment.• 575.751.0369 • cousefoundation.org
TAOS ARTISTS
ON THE
COUSE
PORTAL,
CIRCA 1910
MABEL AND
HER HUSBAND,
TONY LUHAN
26
21
ENTRY TO
STUDIO
GARDEN,
CIRCA 1920
EAST SIDE
OF THE
BIG HOUSE,
1935
-
28
22 VICTOR HIGGINS HOUSE 239 La Morada RoadVictor Higgins had his
first home and studioat the site of Tony Abeyta’s Gallery on
KitCarson Road. In 1946, he moved to theproperty on La Morada
Lane.
Victor Higgins was born in 1884 inShelbyville, Indiana. He
studied art at theChicago Academy of Fine Arts and the ArtInstitute
of Chicago. He came to Taos in1914, where he found the landscape,
color,and light a refreshing change from theclaustrophobic confines
of the easternacademies.
In 1917, Higgins was elected to fullmembership in the Taos
Society of Artists,but he continued to divide his time betweenTaos
and Chicago, which he still consideredhis home.
In 1934, he was one of four artists employ-ed by the Works
Progress AdministrationPublic Works of Art Project to paint
muralsin the Taos County Courthouse. He alsopainted a mural under
the WPA for the postoffice in Rocky Ford, Colorado.
Higgins was greatly influenced by theartist John Marin, who was
in Taos in 1929and 1930. He was open to new ideas andstyles and was
considered the most pro-gressive member of the Taos Society
ofArtists. Many considered him a “painter’spainter.” His body of
work includes land-scapes, still-lifes, and figure paintings
invarious styles. He died in Taos in 1949.
The house is currently a private residenceand bed and breakfast
inn. • 575-758-1331• taoscasitamorada.com
■
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Many thanks to the following individualsand organizations for
their professional
assistance and dedication to the rich history of Taos
Valley.
2009 Sponsors• El Monte Sagrado
Living Resort and Spa• Historic Taos Inn• LDG Architects
Town of Taos • Historic Preservation Commission,
Kent Lewis, Former Commissioner • Planning and Zoning
Department,
Sarah Backus, Former P&Z Director
Lynn Fitzgerald, Project Manager and Research Writer
Peter Mackaness, Historian
Virginia Couse-Leavitt, Historian
New Mexico State Historic Preservation Office
Historical Society of New Mexico • Robert Torrez
Taos Business Alliance/Taos Project• John Otis
Property Owners of the Historic Sites
Taos Historic Museums • Karen Young, Director • Joan Phillips,
Photo Archivist
SW Research Center of Northern New Mexico
• Nita Murphy
Taos County Historical Society • Jacque Chase • Bob Romero•
Corina Santistevan
Design• Webb Design Inc., Taos
Printing• Starline Printing, Albuquerque
TaosVacationGuide.org
HOUSE AND
GROUNDS
AS THEY
APPEAR
TODAY
COVER: COMING UP FROM THE RIO GRANDE CANYON FROM
SANTA FE TO TAOS, 1914. COLLECTION OF THE HARWOOD MUESUM
OF ART. PHOTO BY BURT HARWOOD
