A Report on Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports · A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 6 Therefore there is an urgent need to improve the productivity

A Report on

May 2017

Submitted to:

Ministry of Textiles,

Govt. of India

Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports

Submitted by:

Northern India Textile Research

Association, Ghaziabad (U.P)

A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 1

INDEX

S. No. Topic Page No.

1. Objectives 3

2. Executive Summary 4

3. Introduction 9

4. Literature Review 15

5. Methodology 23

6. Results and Discussion 25

7. Best Practices 85

8. Conclusions and Suggestions 104

9. Annex

i. Questionnaires used in the study 109

ii. List of garment units studied 117

iii. Style pictures 119

10. S & T Benefits 131

11. Financial Position 131

12. Implementation Letter from Industry 132


Acknowledgement

We express our sincere thanks to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for

sponsoring the project “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” to

NITRA.

We are extremely grateful to all garment manufacturing units of NCR,

Bengaluru, Tirupur, Ludhiana and Indore, who have participated in this study

and provided us important information and access to work practices. Without

their support, it would not have been possible to carry out this project.

We also place on record the contribution made by Ms. Vijya Bharti, Mr.

Abhishek Raj, Mr. Shanu, and Mr. Anshul Singh, students of NIFT-Chennai

and NIFT-Mumbai in conducting the study in some of the units of Tirupur and

NCR.

We also acknowledge the efforts of Mr. Shiv & Mr. Punit, Project Officers of

NITRA and Mr. Jaswant Singh Yadav, STA in conducting the study and

compilation of report.

Vivek Agarwal

Shweta Saxena

Kushagra Prakash

M. K. Bansal

M.M.Tiwari


OBJECTIVES AS STATED IN THE PROPOSAL

The objectives of the project are:

1. To reduce spreading loss and cutting efficiency;

2. To develop process-wise benchmarks for sewing operations

3. To suggest techniques for waste minimization and improve efficiency of

various departments.

Deviation made from original objectives if any, while implementing the project

and reasons thereof : No


EXECUTIVE

SUMMARY


EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

India’s textile and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national

economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India’s exports

worldwide. In the global exports of clothing, as per the UN Comtrade, 2014

data released in November 2015 India is ranked as 2nd

largest Textile &

Clothing exporter globally with US$ 38.6 billion while in clothing exports

India was ranked 5th

largest exporter amongst all the exporting countries with

US$16.5 billion worth of clothing exports. China, Bangladesh, Italy, Germany

and Vietnam are the other major exporters of clothing. [3]

India’s competitiveness in the international markets has to be viewed from an

angle different from the availability of cheap labor and raw materials. Rather

than low wage competitiveness, it has to be higher productivity

competitiveness, with greater emphasis on quality improvement and improved

productivity through creation of a modern, efficient, better organized and

competitive industry in place of a traditional one[2].

Studies conducted by various researchers in the past have highlighted that

productivity of Indian garment industry is much lower as compared to

countries like Vietnam and China.

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

India China Vietnam

5169

10799

5567

3238

7576

5042

Cotton -

Spinning, Weaving

& Finishing

Cotton - Garment

Textiles & Garments - Cotton

La

bo

r P

rod

uct

ivit

y

(US

$ /

Em

plo

yee)


Therefore there is an urgent need to improve the productivity levels to enhance

competiveness in international markets.

In view of above a comprehensive study was conducted in 50 units/styles in

four major garment manufacturing/export clusters namely NCR, Bengaluru,

Tirupur and Ludhiana between January 2016 and December 2016.

The study covered all major departments like fabrics, layering, cutting, sewing,

finishing and packing. Data was captured through discussions with

departmental heads and structured questionnaires.

In all the 4 clusters, significant variation in productivity and work practices was

observed in all the departments.

Spreading losses were found to be varying between 1cm and 10cms. Major

reasons for this variation were absence of markings on the laying table or

operator not following those markings i.e. operator negligence and

carelessness. To overcome this problem and reduce spreading losses, operator

should be made aware of the importance of fabric; proper monitoring of layer

mans should be done and end cutter machine should be used. The use of the

end cutter machine will ensure that the lay is cut exactly at the position it

should be cut.

In case of Bengaluru and Tirupur it was found that most of the units were

segregating fabric according to shade and width which help them to minimize

fabric losses due to width variation. However this practice was found to be

missing in many of the units of NCR and Ludhiana.


It was observed that team of 3-4 layerman (especially in case of knitted fabrics

with longer marker lengths) gives significantly higher laying productivity.

Therefore to improve the cutting room efficiency team of 3-4 layerman should

be engage for longer marker length. Productivity can be further improved by

using fabric unwinding stands and laying stands as discussed in the Chapter on

“Best practices”. For units having high production capacities, use of CAM can

also be considered.

End bit management is an important aspect of improving fabric utilization and

cutting room efficiency. Work practices like end bit storage bins (as discussed

in Chapter on “Best practices”) should be considered for better fabric

utilization and traceability. This will also reduce garment rejection.

Operation-wise SAM values were collected for two major product categories-

Men’s Formal Shirt and Knitted Polo shirt. Considerable variations were

observed in timings between units making knitted polo shirts. This variation

can be attributed to operator skills and difference in sizes. In case of Men’s

Formal shirt, difference in timings was negligible as most of the units were

using latest technology machines and attachments.

These timings will help the garment manufacturers to assess their sewing

operations and improve their sewing time.

Significant variations in finishing department comprising of process like thread

trimming, spotting, pressing and packing were observed in all the four clusters.

This can be attributed to variation in style, fabric, operator skill and work

practices.


Several innovative work practices in fabric store, laying, fusing, sewing and

finishing were observed in many garment units. These have been elaborately

discussed in chapter on “best practices”.

To conclude by improving/adopting better work practices, it is possible

improve productivity of various departments in a garment unit.


Chapter No.- 1

INTRODUCTION


INTRODUCTION

India’s textiles sector is one of the oldest industries in Indian economy dating

back several centuries. Even today, textiles sector is one of the largest

contributors to India’s exports with approximately 11 per cent of total exports.

The textiles industry is also labour intensive and is one of the largest

employers. The textile industry employs about 40 million workers and 60

million indirectly. India's overall textile exports during FY 2015-16 stood at

US$ 40 billion

The Indian textiles industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and hand-

woven textiles sectors at one end of the spectrum, while the capital intensive

sophisticated mills sector at the other end of the spectrum. The decentralised

power looms/ hosiery and knitting sector form the largest component of the

textiles sector. The close linkage of the textile industry to agriculture (for raw

materials such as cotton) and the ancient culture and traditions of the country in

terms of textiles make the Indian textiles sector unique in comparison to the

industries of other countries. The Indian textile industry has the capacity to

produce a wide variety of products suitable to different market segments, both

within India and across the world.

Market Size

The Indian textiles industry, currently estimated at around US$ 108 billion, is

expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021. The industry is the second largest

employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people

directly and 60 million people indirectly. The Indian Textile Industry

contributes approximately 5 per cent to India’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP),

and 14 per cent to overall Index of Industrial Production (IIP).

The Indian textile industry has the potential to reach US$ 500 billion in size

according to a study by Wazir Advisors and PCI Xylenes & Polyester. The

growth implies domestic sales to rise to US$ 315 billion from currently US$ 68


billion. At the same time, exports are implied to increase to US$ 185 billion

from approximately US$ 41 billion currently.

Indian exports of locally made retail and lifestyle products grew at a compound

annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10 per cent from 2013 to 2016, mainly led by

bedding bath and home decor products and textiles. [1]

Garment Manufacturing Process:

Stepwise garment manufacturing sequence is given below.[2]

:

Design / Sketch

↓

Pattern Design

↓

Sample Making

↓

Production Pattern

↓

Grading

↓

Marker Making

↓

Spreading

↓

Cutting

↓

Sorting/Bundling

↓

Sewing/Assembling

↓

Inspection

↓

Pressing/ Finishing

↓

Final Inspection

↓

Packing

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/garments-pattern-pattern-making-to-make.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/04/garment-marker-marker-efficiency.html

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/12/apparel-garment-quality-inspection.html


Operations of Garments manufacturing are given below in details

SL

No.

Operation Job Method

01 Design/Sketch It is given by buyers to

manufacturers containing sketches

including measurements of

particular styles

Manual/

Computerized

02 Basic Block Basic block is an individual

component of garments without any

style of design (without Allowance,

Style, Design)

Manual/

Computerized

03 Working

Pattern

When a pattern is made for a

particular style with net dimension

regarding the basic block along with

allowance then it is called working

pattern.

Manual/

Computerized

04 Sample

Garments

To make a sample, this will be

approved by buyer. After making a

sample, it is sent to buyer for

approval to rectify the faults

Manual

05 Approved

Sample

After rectify the faults, sample is

again sent to buyers. If it is ok then ,

then it is called approved sample

Manual

07 Production

Pattern

Making allowance with net

dimension for bulk production

Manual/

Computerized

08 Grading If the buyer requires different sizes,

so should be grade as S, M, L, XL,

XXL

Manual/

Computerized

09 Marker

Making

Marker is a thin paper which

contains all the components for

different sizes for a particular style

of garments

Manual/

Computerized

10 Fabric

Spreading

To spread the fabrics on table

properly for cutting

Manual/

Computerized

11 Cutting To cut fabric according to marker

dimension

Manual/

Computerized

12 Sorting &

Bundling

Sort out the fabric according to size

and for each size make in individual

bundles

Manual

13 Sewing To assemble a full garments

Manual


14 Ironing &

Finishing

After sewing we will get a complete

garment which is treated with steam

ironing & also several finishing

processes are done for example

extra loose thread cutting

Manual

15 Inspection Should be approved as initial

sample

Manual

Need for this Study:

1 Fabric Utilization:

Fabric is 50-60% of the total cost of the garment. Hence even a small saving in

fabric utilization will not only result in increased profits but will also reduce

wastes. In general, factories purchase fabrics more than the actual requirement

and hence a lot of it ends as “dead stock”. Further, fabric that is issued to the

production departments is also not properly utilized.

Even with CAD, there have cases been reported of improved marker efficiency,

the spreading loss of 2-3% is never considered to optimize the fabric

utilization. Such small savings in fabric utilization significantly affect the cost

of production of high fashion garments as the fabrics used for such garments

are very expensive.

2 Sewing Room Efficiency:

Sewing constitutes about 60% of the total cost of manufacturing and increase in

sewing room productivity by 5-10% will result in significant reduction in

overall manufacturing cost thereby improving cost competitiveness.

Productivity levels in countries like China, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Vietnam

are about 50% more as compared to India.


In India, it has been observed that productivity for the same product across

clusters and between factories within a cluster vary significantly depending

upon the technology and work practices followed. Developing benchmarks for

products manufactured in a cluster would help in comparing the performances

of different factories.

Finishing:

Finishing is the last step in garment production and all errors that happen in the

preceding processes accumulate in finishing and have to be corrected at this

stage.


Chapter No.- 2

LITERATURE REVIEW


LITERATURE REVIEW

India’s textile and clothing industry is one of the mainstays of the national

economy. It is also one of the largest contributing sectors of India’s exports

worldwide. In the global exports of clothing, as per the UN Comtrade, 2014

data released in November 2015 India is ranked as 2nd

largest Textile &

Clothing exporter globally with US$ 38.6 billion while in clothing exports

India was ranked 5th

largest exporter amongst all the exporting countries with

US$16.5 billion worth of clothing exports. China, Bangladesh, Italy, Germany

and Vietnam are the other major exporters of clothing. [3]

According to a study conducted by the World Bank, D&B Analysis 2014, most

of the Indian firms in the Textiles (Weaving/Knitting & Processing) &

Garments Sector are still in the Stage I of the competence protocol and

targeting basic conveniences & cleaning up of operations to achieve

competitiveness. Their efforts are made towards cost reduction (raw-material &

logistics being the most prominent), increasing labour productivity, ensuring

compliance to quality norms and engaging in continuous quality improvement

efforts. Some of the aspects in Stage I like energy conservation, clean & safe

working environment, etc. are still to be looked up as measures for

competitiveness.

Amongst the competing countries, China has already crossed the first stage and

has managed to fare well in the next stage as well with optimized capacity

utilization and system improvements. Vietnam, although still in Stage I of the

competency protocol has been able to tackle most of the issues like labour

productivity, controlling costs, etc. The Italian & Japanese counterparts have

already crossed the stage II and their focus is on total improvement in systems

& business processes by achieving total quality enrichment.


India’s competitiveness in the international market, therefore, has to be viewed

from an angle different from the availability of cheap labor and raw materials.

Rather than low wage competitiveness, it has to be higher productivity

competitiveness, with greater emphasis on quality improvement and improved

productivity through creation of a modern, efficient, better organized and

competitive industry in place of a traditional one[2].

India has the components of a vital and internationally competitive apparel

industry and a strong and efficient garment manufacturing base with ability to

offer scale, flexibility, service and a full range of apparels is able to secure a

much larger share in the global market. However, to achieve this vision, India

needs to establish a system by which Indian textile manufacturers might

benchmark productivity, quality and overall performance against one another

and eventually against international competitors.

FACTORS AFFECTING THE COMPETITIVENESS OF INDIAN

GARMENT INDUSTRY

Cost Structure

Margins can be improved either by increasing sales prices, or by reducing

costs. As prices in real terms for many of the industry’s staple products have

eroded over many years, the focus has long been on reducing costs. Competing

countries‟ (China & Vietnam) competitive advantage vis-à-vis Indian in terms

of costs is presented in the charts below:


Figure – 2.1

Source: Enterprise Surveys (http://www.enterprisesurveys.org), The World

Bank, D&B Analysis

India stands poorly against China and Vietnam with respect to the raw material

costs, energy costs, interest costs and logistics costs. However, India has an

advantage over Vietnam in terms of the labour costs as evident from the above

chart.

Although, both India and China have very competitive labour costs, yet they

have been rising in the recent years. Industry experts believe that labour costs

in China are increasing, on a yearly basis, and according to China’s “12th Five

Year Plan” the salaries will continue increasing by 13% annually in order to

stimulate domestic purchasing power. The rising labour costs in China

therefore are expected to lower the competitiveness of Chinese Textile &

Garments industry over time.

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70% 61%

7%12%

1% 2%6%

59%

3%

10%

0 1%4%

52%

3%

27%

2% 1%4%

India

China

Vietnam

Cost

Breakup

(As a %

of total

sales)

Cost Structure - Textiles & Garments


Productivity

Labour Productivity is the measure taken for benchmarking the productivity of

Indian textile & garment industry vis-à-vis competing countries. Labour

productivity has been estimated as a ratio of Gross value added (GVA) to the

number of workers. Higher labour productivity of competing countries (China

& Vietnam for Cotton and Japan for manmade fibre) is one of the sources of

competitive advantage over India, as shown in the chart below.

Figure – 2.2

China is emerging as the leader in labour productivity in cotton textiles &

garments with labour productivity almost double that of India & Vietnam.

China, in-spite of having almost four times labour force than India has higher

labour productivity owing to higher gross value added (which is almost eight

times that of India). India has been able to match up with Vietnam in Cotton

spinning, weaving & finishing process but is lagging behind in garments.

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

India China Vietnam

5169

10799

5567

3238

7576

5042

Cotton -Spinning, Weaving & Finishing

Cotton - Garment

Textiles & Garments - Cotton

Lab

or

Pro

du

ctiv

ity

(US

$ /

Em

plo

yee

)


Previous Studies:

An extensive survey was commissioned by the German Technical Cooperation

(GTZ) in association with Okhla Garment and Textile Cluster (OGTC),, and

Methods Apparel Consultancy was chosen to analyze current systems and

advise ways to improve overall competitiveness.

Based on the data collected in the survey, it states that the following major

areas require immediate attention:

Technical skills availability

The need for first-time quality

A reduction in throughput time

Lower WIP

Better management and supervision

Development of team work

Lower absenteeism

Lower labour turnover

Innovation and technology up-gradation

Another survey was conducted in the NCR Region in the months of November

and December 2007. The firms selected covered a wide range of products and

fall within the following parameters.

Orders in excess of 2000 pieces

200 to 1000 operators,

Have some operators on the company payroll,

Willing to share management cost information

The survey included an analysis of the production department, the personnel

involved and potential savings in an average factory.


All the key departments were analyzed and rated keeping the world-class

standard as a benchmark. All the managers and supervisors were assessed and

rated to establish where training would be most effective.

Status of Apparel manufacturing SMES in the NCR Region- Surveys

conducted by Methods Apparel Consultancy

The analysis is based upon the survey conducted by the Methods Apparel

Consultancy. Ten factories were rated and 300 people were assessed during the

surveys in November-December, 2007 commissioned by the Garment

Technical Cooperation (GTZ) in association with Okhla Garment and Textile

Cluster (OGTC) to analyze current systems and advise ways to improve overall

productivity. The survey was done in two parts, the first analyzing the factory

and the second evaluating the personnel. A comprehensive checklist was

developed which covered every department and each point on the checklist was

awarded a value of 1 to 5 points, 5 being considered an International

benchmark. The points awarded were added and a percentage score was

calculated. Priorities for improvement for each department were established.

Upgrading the Indian garment industry: a study of three clusters

This paper examines the process of upgrading of the Indian garment industry

through a survey of 100 firms in three clusters in Delhi NCR, Tirupur, and

Mumbai, in 2012. Upgrading could be of three types: Process, Product or

Functional. Product upgrading entails producing higher value added products

and involves steps taken to upgrade product quality, introduction of new fabrics

and raw materials, and reduction in reworking rates. Process upgrading occurs

through the incorporation of more sophisticated technologies in production and

/or reengineering. Process upgrading takes place through use of new production


machinery, workers training, reduction in delivery time, total quality programs,

introduction of new organizational approaches, improvements in the production

process and increased usage of computer programs for business purposes.

Functional upgrading involves moving to higher value functions and occurs

through design, marketing and branding. Moreover, most value addition occurs

in this stage of production. Most firms surveyed reported upgrading. Product

upgrading is reported to be the lowest, followed by functional and process.

Process upgrading is highest in the category both (firms which are exporting

and also sell domestically), in Mumbai and among the medium sized firms.

Product upgrading is highest in the export category, in Delhi NCR and in the

medium sized firms. Little or no upgrading is reported by domestic firms,

mostly in Delhi NCR and in large firms. Functional upgrading is highest in

exporters, in Delhi NCR and the medium sized firms. The governance structure

of the value chain determines functional upgrading. Discriminate analysis has

been used to identify the variables that differentiate between the three groups,

clusters, size and orientation. Reduction in reworking rates, introduction or

improvements in total quality programmes, increased use of computer

programmes and internet for business purposes and new production machinery

are the most important predictors of upgrading among Mumbai, Delhi and

Tirupur. New production machinery is most important predictor of upgrading

between firms catering to the Domestic market and Both (i.e. exporting as well

as supplying to the export market).


Chapter No.- 3

METHODOLOGY


METHODOLOGY

The study was conducted using a combination of quantitative and qualitative

research methods.

Detailed structured questionnaires were prepared to collect information from

various departments like fabrics stores, layering and cutting, sewing and

finishing. A copy of the questionnaires is given in Annex-1.

Work practices were also studied and captured through pictures and videos,

wherever possible.

Four leading garment export/manufacturing clusters namely National Capital

Region (NCR), Bengaluru, Tirupur and Ludhiana were selected for the study.

A total of 50 units/styles were studies in these clusters. Cluster-wise details are

as follows:

NCR - 23 units/styles

BENGALURU - 8 units

TIRUPUR - 10 units

LUDHIANA - 9 units/styles

Cluster-wise list of units covered in the study is given in Annex-2.


Chapter No.- 4

RESULTS

&

DISCUSSIONS


RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS

CLUSTER : NCR

Total No. of Units Covered: 23

Profile of Units Studied:

a. 8 units were more than 20 years old while the remaining 15 units

were less than 20 years old.

b. 20 units studied were export units while 3 were involved in both

export and domestic garment business.

c. 15 units were involved in manufacturing of both woven and

knitted garments while 3 units were manufacturing only woven

garments and 5 were manufacturing only knitted garments. Major

products manufactured are Ladies, and Kids Wear.

d. Normally working hours varied between 8 to 10 hours/day.

e. 8 units were employing only salaried workmen, while the

remaining 15 were employing both salaried and contractual

workmen.

f. No. of sewing machines varied between 150-1550. Capacity

Utilization varied between 40% and 89%. Actual garment

production varied between 900- 22,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig-

4.1, 4.2 and 4.3).


Figure 4.1: No. of Sewing Machines

Figure 4.2: Capacity Utilization (%)

0

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400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

1800

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9

NC

R 2

0

NC

R 2

1

NC

R 2

2

NC

R 2

3


Figure 4.3: Actual Production/ Day

Department-Wise Observations:

1 Fabric Deptt:

i. All the 23 units were following 4-point system for fabric

inspection.

ii. The units were maintaining fabric inventory between 20 days

and 1 year.

iii. Out of 23 factories, 18 units were using ERP for fabric issue

while the remaining 5 were doing it manually.

2 Layering & Cutting:

i. Time studies are conducted on styles manufactured from

woven and knitted fabrics by manual layering process.

ii. Significant variation between Marker length and actual Lay

length was observed during the studies. The extent of

variation was between 1cm and 10 cms. This can be attributed

to poor work practices.

iii. It was observed that, laying productivity varies significantly

with respect of type of fabric laid (solid/stripes/checks/prints)

0

5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

NC

R 1

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3


and marker length and operator skills. (Refer Fig. 4.4 and

4.5).

iv. In cutting, studies were conducted mainly on Straight Knife

machine. There was a wide variation in operator productivity

between the units. No. of garment cut /cutting team/hour

varied between 40-294. (Refer Fig. 4.6). Major reasons of

variation were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and

capacity utilization.

Figure 4.4 : No. of Layers/team/ hr (Solid fabric)

Figure 4.5 : No. of Layers/team/ hr (Printed fabric)

0

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140

<3 meters 3-5 meters 5-7 meters

0

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40

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60

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<3 meters 3-5 meters 5-7 meters


Figure 4.6: No. of Garments Cut/ person/hr

3 Sewing:

i. Key performance parameter in sewing department is SAM

(Standard allowed minutes) for any given style.

ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among them

are type of garment and style, type of fabric, use of

attachments, operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency)

and material handling systems/techniques.

iii. SAM values varied between 5 min to 76.8 min. Major reasons

for this variation was differences in the style, work practices

and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.7)

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150

200

250

300

350

NC

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Figure 4.7: SAM/ Garment

4 Finishing and Packing:

i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread trimming,

initial inspection, spotting, pressing, final inspection and

packing. Large variation in productivity was observed in all

these areas.

ii. In case of thread trimming, worker productivity/hr varied

between 15 and 51 pieces (Refer Fig-4.8). This variation was

largely due to style variation and degree of thread trimming

required in the garment

iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between 7

and 60 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.9). This variation was largely due

to variation in style, size, operator skill and work practices.

0

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NC

R 1

3

NC

R 1

4

NC

R 1

5

NC

R 1

6

NC

R 1

7

NC

R 1

8

NC

R 1

9

NC

R 2

0

NC

R 2

1

NC

R 2

2

NC

R 2

3


Figure 4.8 : No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr

Figure 4.9 : No. of Garments Pressed/person/hr

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

NC

R 1

NC

R 2

NC

R 3

NC

R 4

NC

R 5

NC

R 6

NC

R 7

NC

R 8

NC

R 9

NC

R 1

0

NC

R 1

1

NC

R 1

2

NC

R 1

3

NC

R 1

4

NC

R 1

5

NC

R 1

6

NC

R 1

7

NC

R 1

8

NC

R 1

9

NC

R 2

0

NC

R 2

1

NC

R 2

2

NC

R 2

3

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

NC

R 1

NC

R 2

NC

R 3

NC

R 4

NC

R 5

NC

R 6

NC

R 7

NC

R 8

NC

R 9

NC

R 1

0

NC

R 1

1

NC

R 1

2

NC

R 1

3

NC

R 1

4

NC

R 1

5

NC

R 1

6

NC

R 1

7

NC

R 1

8

NC

R 1

9

NC

R 2

0

NC

R 2

1

NC

R 2

2

NC

R 2

3


CLUSTER : BENGALURU




b. Out of 8 units studied 5 units were export units, 3 were doing both

domestic and export.

c. All the units specialize in manufacturing of woven garments. Major

products manufactured are Men’s Shirts and Trousers.

d. Working hours were found 8 hours/day in all the units

e. No contractual workers were found in any unit studied except

security. All were employing salaried workmen.

f. No. of sewing machines varied between 300- 1040. Capacity


production varied between 3,500- 11,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig

4.10, 4,11 and 4.12)

Figure 4.10 : No. of Sewing Machines

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8


Figure 4.11 : Capacity Utilization (%)

Figure 4.12 : Actual Production/ Day


1 Fabric Deptt:


inspection.

75

80

85

90

95

100


0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000



ii. The units are maintaining fabric inventory between 1 week

and 2 month.

iii. All the 8 units were using ERP for fabric issue.



woven piece dyed, stripes and check fabrics by manual as

well as machine layering process.

ii. Marginal variation between Marker length and actual Lay


variation was between 0.5cm and 1cm which is very

insignificant and can be attributed to good work practices.

iii. Layering team consists of 2 persons irrespective of marker

length and type of fabric, whether it is dyed, printed or

checks. No. of Layers/team/hr varies between 24 and 41

for marker lengths between 5-6 meters. (Refer Fig. 4.13)

iv. In cutting, studies were conducted on manual and CAM

cutting machine both. Manual machine consisting of

straight knife and band knife cutting machines. There was

a wide variation in operator productivity between the

units. No. of garment cut /cutter/hour varied between 100-

150 (Refer Fig.4.14). The variation can be attributed to

type of fabric cut, lay height and work practices in

different units.


Figure 4.13: No. of Layers/team/hr

Figure 4.14 : No. of Garments Cut/person/hr

3 Sewing:



0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45


0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160



ii. There are several factors that affect SAM. Major among

them are Style, Type of fabric, use of attachments,

operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency) and

material handling systems/techniques.

iii. SAM values varied between 24 min to 32 min. (Refer Fig.

4.15). Major reasons for this variation were differences in

the type of sewing machines, style, work practices,

material handling equipments and operator skill. Details

operation-wise SAM is given in table No.- 5.

Figure 4.15 : SAM/ Garment


i. Major activities covered under finishing are thread

trimming, initial inspection, spotting, pressing and final

inspection. Large variation in productivity was observed in

all these areas.

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35




between 20 and 37 pieces. (Refer Fig. 4.16). This variation

was largely due to style variation and degree of thread

trimming required in the garment.

iii. In case of pressing, worker productivity/hr varied between

44 and 56 pieces. (Refer Fig. 4.17). This variation was

largely due to variation in style and size.

Figure 4.16 : No. of Garments Trimmed/Person/hr

Figure 4.17: No. of Garments Pressed/Person/hr

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45


0

10

20

30

40

50

60



CLUSTER : TIRUPUR




b. All the units studied were export units.

c. All the units specialize in manufacturing of knitted garments.

Major products manufactured are Men’s and Kids T-shirt and

Polo shirt.

d. Normally working hours varied between 8 to 12 hours/day.

e. 4 units were employing salaried workmen, 3 of the units were

employing contractual workmen while the remaining 3 were

employing both salaried and contractual workmen.

f. No. of sewing machines varied between 57- 550. Capacity


production varied between 1,000- 9,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig

4.18, 4.19 and 4.20).

Figure 4.18 : No. of Sewing Machines

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10


Figure 4.19 : Capacity Utilization (%)

Figure 4.20: Actual Production/ Day


1 Fabric Deptt:

i. 8 units were following 4-point system for fabric inspection

while the remaining 2 are not following any internationally

accepted scientific system.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100


0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

9000

10000



ii. The units are maintaining fabric inventory between 1 week

and 1 month.

iii. Out of 10 factories, 8 are using ERP for fabric issue while the

remaining 2 were doing it manually.



Single Jersey and Pique knitted fabrics by manual layering

process.





iii. It was observed that, for marker length upto 5 meters, a

layering team consists of 2 persons while for marker length

more than 5 meters, the team consisted of 4 persons. In case

of single jersey fabrics, it was observed a team of 4 persons in

marker lengths longer than 5 meters improves the laying

productivity significantly (Refer Fig. 4.21). No such pattern

was observed in case of Pique fabrics.



between the units. No. of garment cut /cutter/hour varied

between 27- 94. (Refer Fig. 4.22). Major reasons of variation

were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and capacity

utilization.


Figure 4.21: No. of Layers/team/ hr


3 Sewing:




are Style, Type of fabric, use of attachments, operator skill

(measured in terms of efficiency) and material handling

systems/techniques.

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

4 persons/team marker length >5m

2 persons/team marker length <5m

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

TIR-2 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10


iii. SAM values varied between 10 min to 19.5 min. Major

reasons for this variation was differences in the style, work

practices and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.23) Details

operation-wise SAM is given in table No. -6.




initial inspection, spotting, pressing and final inspection.

Large variation in productivity was observed in all these

areas.


between 18 and 64 pieces (Refer Fig-4.24). This variation was


required in the garment


and 70 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.25). This variation was largely

0

5

10

15

20

25



due to variation in style, size, operator skill and work

practices.

Figure 4.24: No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr


0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70


0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80



CLUSTER : LUDHIANA

Total No. of Units Covered: 9




b. 7 units studied were domestic units, 1 unit was involved in both

export and domestic and 1 unit was involved in garment exports

only.

c. All the 9 units were involved in manufacturing knitted garments.

Major products manufactured are Men’s, Ladies, and Kids Wear.

d. Out of 9, 8 units were working 8 hrs/day while 1 unit was

working double shift of 8 hrs.

e. All the units were employing only salaried workmen.

f. No. of sewing machines varied between 200-3500. Capacity


production varied between 2,000-70,000 pieces/day. (Refer Fig

4.26, 4.27 and 4.28)

Figure 4.26: No. of Sewing Machines

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

LDH 1 LDH 2 LDH 3 LDH 4 LDH 5 LDH 6 LDH 7 LDH 8 IDR 1


Figure 3 : Capacity Utilization (%)

Figure 4: Actual Production/ Day


1 Fabric Deptt:


inspection.

ii. The units were maintaining fabric inventory between 15

tonnes and 216 tonnes.

iii. Most of the units are ERP system for fabric issue.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100


0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

120000

140000

160000





knitted fabrics by manual layering process.





iii. In general, a layering team consists of 3 persons. It was

observed that, for marker lengths 5-6 meters, layering

productivity/team varies between 15-30 layers/team/hr while

for marker length between 7-9 meters productivity/team

varies between 24-60 layers/team/hr. (Refer Fig. 4.29).



between the units. No. of garment cut /cutting team/hour

varied between 87-173 (Refer Fig. 4.30). Major reasons of

variation were type of fabric being cut, operator skill and

capacity utilization. \

Figure 4.29: No. of Layers/team/hr

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

3-5 meters 5-7 meters 7-9 meters



3 Sewing:




are type of garment and style, type of fabric, use of

attachments, operator skill (measured in terms of efficiency)

and material handling systems/techniques.

iii. SAM values varied between 12.5 min to 23 min. Major

reasons for this variation was differences in the style, work

practices and operator skill. (Refer Fig-4.31)


0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

400

450


0

5

10

15

20

25

LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1




initial inspection, spotting, pressing, final inspection and

packing. Large variation in productivity was observed in all

these areas.


between 21-43 pieces (Refer Fig-4.32). This variation was


required in the garment.


and 53 pieces. (Refer Fig-4.33). This variation was largely

due to variation in style, size, operator skill and work

practices.

Figure 4.32 : No. of Garments Trimmed/person/hr


0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140


0

10

20

30

40

50

60



TABLE 1- Data of various departments of different garment units

Location: NCR

S.No Parameter Unit Code

NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11

1 GENERAL FACTORY DETAILS

Year of Estd. 2007 2007 1997 1997 1999 1992 1992 1979 1979 1998 2006

Type of Unit

(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export Export both

Type of Garment

Manufactured Ladies Ladies

Ladies+

kids

Ladies+

kids

Mens+

Ladies

t-shirt

Ladies+

kids

Ladies+ki

ds

Ladies+

kids+

mens

Ladies+

kids

mens

Ladies+

kids

Ladies+

kids+

mens

Type of Fabric Used

[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] W+K W+K W+K W+K K W+K W+K W+K W+K W K


Parameter NCR1 NCR2 NCR3 NCR4 NCR5 NCR6 NCR7 NCR8 NCR9 NCR10 NCR11

Type of production system

followed PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS PBS

No. of Sewing M/cs 440 440 600 600 232 550 550 450 450 427 350

Production Capacity/day

(No. of pcs) 4800 4500 6000 6000 3500 4000 4000 4000 4000 7500 15000

Actual Production/day (No. of

pcs) 4000 4000 4000 4000 2000 3000 3000 3500 3500 3000 12000

Capacity Utilization 83 89 67 67 57 75 75 87.5 88 40 80

Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8

No. of Workmen 900 900 1200 1200 600 1100 1600 850 850 967 785

Type of Workmen [Salaried

(S)/Contractual (C)] Both Both S S Both Both Both Both Both S Both

No. of Supervisory Staff 40 40 25 25 45 40 40 60 60 94 24

No. of Managerial Staff 30 30 15 15 25 20 20 5 5 36 6



2 FABRIC

Method of Fabric Inspection Machine Machine Machine Machine Manual Machine Machine Machine Machine Manual Manual

Fabric Inspection System

Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point

% Fabric Return Annually 5% 5% Nil Nil 1-2% 3-5% 3-5% 1-2% 1-2% 1-2% 10%

% Fabric reprocessed annually 5% 5% Nil Nil 1% 3-5% 3-5% 1-2% 1-2% 1% NA

Difference in fabric length -

Grey Vs Finished Fabric Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Fabric Inventory in terms of:

Qty(mtrs) NA NA 5lac 5 lac NA 2 lac 2 lac 1 lac 1 Lac NA NA

Value (Rs ) NA NA NA NA NA NA NA 1 cr 1 cr NA 30 Lac

Fabric Grouping System shade

wise

shade

wise

shade

wise

shade

wise lotwise

shade

wise width wise

shade

wise +

width

wise

shade

wise

shade

wise

shade

wise



% fabric rolls with width

variation Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil Nil 3% NA 5%

Fabric Issue System

ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP Manual ERP Manual

3 LAYERING

Type of Fabric laid poplin poplin poplin crepe

single

jersey crepe crepe

poplin+

crepe poplin georgette

single

jersey

Type of garment cut ladies ladies kids kids Men’s ladies ladies ladies kids ladies ladies

Method of layering

(Manual/Machine) Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual both

Difference in Marker length

and Actual lay length (c.m) 3 3 2 1 5 3 2 3 3 3 5

Fabric GSM (gms) NA NA 113 148 120 118 113 NA NA 160 180

No. of Operators per team

3 3 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 3 4



No. of Layers/team/hr

Marker Length- 3 mtrs or

less

Solid fabrics 60

Stripe/Print fabrics 54 86

Marker Length- 3-5 mtrs

Solid fabrics 92 66 66 93



Solid fabrics

42

Stripe/Print fabrics 90

4 CUTTING

Method of Marker Making CAD CAD Manual Manual CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD Manual



Type of cutting followed Manual Manual Both Both Manual Both Both Both both Manual both

No. of garment cut/cutting

team/hr 89 80 84 92 40 100 90 94 93 100 106

5 SEWING

Fabric Type poplin poplin poplin crepe ladies

top

crepe Crepe poplin poplin georgette S/J

Fabric Pattern print print check print Solid solid Solid Print print NA solid

Type of Garment ladies

top

ladies

top

kids shirt kids top ladies

top

skirt kids top ladies

top

kids ladies ladies

top

Style Photo

Style SAM (min) 22 30.8 17 12 7.7 8.3 10 19.35 25 14 5

6 FINISHING AND PACKING

Type of Garment ladies ladies Kids kids ladies skirt kids top ladies kids ladies ladies

No. of garments

trimmed/workmen/hr

40 45 32 50 25 30 22 16 15 21 51



Rework% in initial inspection 12 10 16 14 12 4-5 NA 20 NA 20 5

Rejection % in initial

inspection 1 1 1 0 2 1 NA 4 NA 3

1

No. of pcs. spotted /worker/hr 27 34 40 20 20 37 22 40 13 33 NA

No. of pcs.

pressed/workmen/hr 60 50 40 40 27 51 48 53 34 7

22

Rework% in final inspection 5 5 20 20 8 10 NA 5 NA 10 NA

Rejection % in final

inspection 1 1 1 1 1 0 NA 0 NA 0 NA

No. of pcs. packed/packer/hr

Flat Packing

Fold 66 40 47 40 45 40

37

Hanger 46 60 25 11


TABLE 1- Data of Various departments of different garment units

Location: NCR

S.N

o Parameter Unit Code

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23

1 GENERAL FACTORY DETAILS

Year of Estd. 2006 NA 1990 2002 2007 2014 2014 2007 2014 1992 2003 1996

Type of Unit

(Export/Domestic/Both) both export both both export export export export

expor

t export export both

Type of Garment

Manufactured

ladies/

kids/

mens

ladies/

kids/

mens

ladies/

kids

ladies/

kids ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies

ladies/

kids/

mens

ladies/

kids/

mens

Type of Fabric Used

[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] K W+K W+K W+K W W+K W+K W W+K W+K K K

Type of production

system followed PBS UPS PBS PBS SPS PBS PBS SPS PBS PBS PBS PBS

No. of Sewing M/cs 350 1550 217 580 900 510 510 900 600 350 150 250


Parameter

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23


(No. of pcs) 15000 25000 1000 3500 13000 7000 7000 13000 8000 6500 2000 3000

Actual Production/day

(No. of pcs) 12000 22000 800 2000 19000 5000 5000 10000 5000 2600 900 1500

Capacity Utilization 80 88 80 57 77 71 71 77 62 40 45 50

Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10 10 10 8 8

No. of Workmen 785 2450 470 850 2000 650 650 2000 1000 600 350 525

Type of Workmen

[Salaried (S)/Contractual

(C)]

both S S both both both both both S both S S

No. of Supervisory Staff 24 140 4 NA 90 45 45 90 30 15 NA NA

No. of Managerial Staff 6 25 4 NA 30 6 6 30 6 25 NA NA

2 FABRIC

Method of Fabric

Inspection Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual NA both Manual Manual

Fabric Inspection

System Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point

4

point 4 point 4 point 4 point

% Fabric Return

Annually 10% NA 10% 2% 5% 2% 2% 5% NA 2% 1-2% 1-2%

% Fabric reprocessed

Annually NA NA

15-

20% 2% NA 20% 20% NA NA 2% 5% 4%


Parameter

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23

Difference in fabric

length -Grey Vs

Finished Fabric

YES NA YES YES YES YES YES YES NA YES YES YES

Fabric Inventory in

terms of:

Qty(mtrs/ton) NA NA 1 LAC

mtr 4 LAC mtr

16

LAC NA NA

16

LAC NA NA 10 Ton 15 Ton

Value (Rs) 30 Lac NA 70-80

Lac 6 Cr 7-8 Cr NA NA 7-8 Cr NA NA NA NA

Fabric Grouping

System shade wise

shade

wise

shade

wise shade wise

shade

wise shade wise

shade

wise

shade

wise NA

shade

wise

shade

wise

shade

wise


variation 5% NA 5% 2-3% 1-2% 2% 2% 1-2% NA NA NA NA

Fabric Issue System Manual NA ERP ERP ERP Manual Manual ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP

3 LAYERING

Type of Fabric laid S/J Denim voile corduroy crepe poplin poplin poplin Rayon S/J S/J S/J

Type of garment cut ladies

tee

ladies

skirt

ladies

top trouser ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies ladies both Both

Method of layering

(Manual/Machine) Both Manual Manual Manual Both Manual Both Manual CAM Manual Manual Manual

Difference in Marker

length and Actual lay

length (c.m)

5 2 4 NA 4 5 5 4 2 10 1.5 1.5

Fabric GSM (gms) 140 205 73 NA 120 140 140

145 140 150 120 145

No. of Operators per team 4 3 2 2 2 3 3 2 3 3 4 4


Parameter

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23


Marker Length- 3 mtrs

or less

Solid fabrics 130 45



Solid fabrics 76 55

Stripe/Print fabrics 45 40 45 30


Solid fabrics 52 60

Stripe/Print fabrics

4 CUTTING

Method of Marker Making Manual CAD Manual CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD

Type of cutting followed both Both both both Manual Manual Manual Manual CAM Manual Manual Manual


team/hr 106 294 54 133 160 130 140 175 NA 82 120 100

5 SEWING

Fabric Type S/J Denim voile corduroy crepe poplin poplin poplin rayon S/J S/J S/J

Fabric Pattern solid Solid solid print solid print print check print solid solid solid


Parameter

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23

Type of Garment Ladies

tee

Ladies

skirt

Ladies

top

Kids

trouser Ladies Ladies

Ladies

top

Ladies

dress

ladies

shirt

Ladies

top

Ladies

dress

Ladies

dress

Style SAM (min)

6 30.7 25.4 17.5 76.8 17.92 22.6 41.6 32.3 9.6 35 38

6 FINISHING & PACKAGING

Type of Garment

Kids

top

Ladies

top

Ladies

tee Ladies tee NA NA NA

Ladies

dress

Ladies

top

Ladies

top

Ladies

dress

Ladies

shirt

No. of garments

trimmed/workmen/hr 15 21 51 45 50 24 NA 20 50 45 22 30

Rework% in initial

inspection NA 20 5 5 10 2 NA 25 10 10 20 NA


inspection NA 3 1 1 0 1 NA 2 2 2 2 NA

No. of pcs. spotted

/worker/hr 13 33 NA NA NA 25 NA NA 37 30 NA NA

No. of pcs.

pressed/workmen/hr 34 7 22 40 49 25 NA 20 25 25 20 25

Rework% in final

inspection NA 10 NA NA 0 5 NA 22 15 12 25 10


inspection NA 0 NA NA 0 0 NA 1 1 1 2 2


Parameter

NCR

12

NCR

13

NCR

14

NCR

15

NCR

16

NCR

17

NCR

18

NCR

19

NCR

20

NCR

21

NCR

22

NCR

23

No. of pcs.

packed/packer/hr

Flat Packing NA NA NA

Fold 37 37 16 NA NA 40 50 NA 40

Hanger 25 11 27 NA NA NA


TABLE 2 -Data of various departments of different garment units

Location: Bengaluru



1 FACTORY DETAILS

Year of Estd. 2003 2011 2007 2001 2010 2005 2012 2012

Type of Unit

(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Domestic

Export &

Domestic Export

Export &

Domestic Export Export

Type of Garment

Manufactured

Men's

Casual Shirt

Men's

Casual/

Formal

Shirt &

Kids Shirts

Men's /

Women's

Casual/

Formal

Shirts

Trouser,

Shirts &

Suits

Mens

Formal

Shirts

Mens

Formal

Shirts

Mens

casual/

formal

Shirts

Mens

casual/

formal

Shirts

Type of Fabric Used W W W W W W W W

Type of production

system followed

Assembly

line

Assembly

line PBS+UPS

PBS+

UPS PBS

PBS+

UPS PBS PBS

No. of Sewing M/cs 700 300 590 1040 800 600 482 482


(No. of pcs) 8000 4000 9100 7000 13000 6000 5000 5000


(No. of pcs) 7500 3500 9000 5908 11000 5500 4500 4500


Parameter BR-1 BR-2 BR-3 BR-4 BR-5 BR-6 BR-7 BR-8

Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8

No. of Workmen 1417 1263 2209 NA 1157 900 900

Type of Workmen

(Salaried/Contractual) Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried NA NA Salaried Salaried

No. of Supervisory Staff 103 105 34 51 NA

67 20 20

No. of Managerial Staff 39 21 21

Capacity utilization 94 86 98 84 85 92 90 90

2

FABRIC

Method of Fabric

Inspection Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine Machine


Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point

% Fabric Return

Annually NA NA NA 1% NIL 5% NIL NIL


Annually NA NA NA NA NA - NA NA


length -Grey Vs Finished

Fabric

NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA



Fabric Inventory in terms

of:

Qty(mtrs) 2 Lakh mtrs 2 Lakh mtrs

5.2 Lakh

mtrs NA

3 Lakh

mtrs

2.5 Lakh

mtrs

1.5 Lakh

mtrs

1.5 Lakh

mtrs

Value (Rs in lac) NA NA 950 NA NA NA 180 180

Fabric Grouping System Shade &

width wise

Shade &

width wise

Shade &

width wise

Shade &

width wise

Shade &

width wise

Shade

wise

Shade &

width

wise

Shade &

width

wise


variation NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA

Fabric Issue System

ERP ERP SAP SAP Stage SAP Manual Manual

3

LAYERING

Type of Fabric laid

Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven

Type of garment cut Shirts

Men’s

Shirts

Men’s

Shirts Trousers

Formal

Shirts Shirts Shirts Shirts

Method of layering Machine &

Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual

Machine

&

Manual

Machine

& Manual

Machine

&

Manual



length

Extra +1 cm

on both

sides

Extra +1

cm on both

sides

Extra 0.5

cm on

both sides

Extra +1

cm on

both sides

Extra +1

cm on both

sides

Extra +1

cm on

both

sides

Extra +1

cm on

both sides

Extra +1

cm on

both

sides

No. of Operators per

team 2 2 2 2 2 - NA

NA



No. of Layers/team/hrs

Marker Length- < 5

mtrs

Solid fabrics 60 75

Stripe fabrics 55

Check Fabric 15 55 43 43

Marker Length- 5-6

mtrs

Solid fabrics 30 35 37 39 41

Stripe fabrics 22

Check Fabric 10

Marker Length- 7-9

mtrs

Solid fabrics 45

Stripe/printed fabrics

4 CUTTING

Method of Marker

Making CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD

Type of cutting followed

Manual &

Machine Manual

Manual &

Machine Machine Manual

Manual

&

Machine

NA NA


Parameter


No. of Pcs cut/cutter/hr

950 pcs 800 1000 1100 2500 850 112 110

5 SEWING ROOM

Fabric Type

Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven Woven

Type of Garment Men's

Casual Shirt

Men's

Casual

Shirt

Men’s

Shirt

Men’s

Trouser

Men’s

Formal

Shirts

Men’s

Formal

Shirts

Men’s

casual/

formal

Shirts

Men’s

casual/

formal

Shirts

Style SMV

29.15 27.99 27.44 31.98 NA 23.94 23.84 24.61

6 FINISHING & PACKING

Type of Garment Men's

Casual Shirt

Men's

Casual

Shirt

Men's

Casual

Shirt

Men’s

Trouser

Men’s

Formal

Shirt

Men’s

Formal

Shirts

Men’s

casual/

formal

Shirts

Men’s

casual/

formal

Shirts

No. of garments

trimmed/workmen/hr 36 40 42 40 26 29 37 34

Rework% in initial

inspection 8 12 11 9 13 11.5 10-15 10-15

No. of pcs.

pressed/workmen/hr 44 48 56 50 42 48 50 47




inspection 1-1.5% 2% 1% 1.50% 1.80% 2.20% 1.40% 1.30%

No. of pcs.

packed/day/packer

Flat Packing 30 42 59 48 52 43 50 46

Hanger Packing 350 -



Location: Tirupur



1

GENERAL FACTORY

DETAILS

Year of Estd. 1988 1997 1976 2000 2005 2006 1994 1989 1989 2003

Type of Unit

(Export/Domestic/Both) Export Export Export

Export &

Domestic Export

Export &

Domestic Export

Export &

Domestic Export Export

Type of Garment

Manufactured

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

Kids T-

Shirt and

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo Shirt

Kids T-

Shirt

and

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

T-Shirt,

Polo

Shirt

Type of Fabric Used

[Woven(W)/Knitted(K)] K Both W

and K

Both W

and K K K K

Both K

and W K K K

Type of production system

followed SBS

Assembly

line SBS SBS SBS SBS SBS SBS Line

Single

piece

flow

No. of Sewing M/cs 1000 at

4 units

120 180 300 130 150 100 57 550 470


Parameter TIR-1 TIR-2 TIR-3 TIR-4 TIR-5 TIR-6 TIR-7 TIR-8 TIR-9 TIR-10


(No. of pcs) 60000 5000 8000 6000 4000 5000 3500 1500 10000 9000

Actual Production/day (No.

of pcs) 50000 5000 6000 5000 2500 3000 2500 1000 9000 8000

Normal Working hrs/day 8 8 9 9 12 12 12 8 8 10

No. of Workmen 1600 120 310 380 110 75 110 66 900 529

Type of Workmen [Salaried

(S)/Contractual (C)] S

Both S

and C S S C C

Both S

and C C S

Both S

and C

No. of Supervisory Staff 120 12 28 35 12 15 32 4 140 14

No. of Managerial Staff 6 4 5 20 5 4 8 4 7 25

Capacity utilization 83 100 75 83 63 60 71 67 90 89

2 FABRIC

Method of Fabric Inspection Machine Manual Machine Manual Machine Manual Manual Manual Machine Machine


Followed 4 point 4 point 4 point

No

system 4point 4point 4point None 4point 4point

% Fabric Return Annually 0% 5% 1% 23% 2% 10% 8-10% 5% 2% 1%


Annually 1-1.5% 1-2% 2-3% 10% 0% 30% 2-3% 5% 1% 5%

Difference in fabric length -

Grey Vs Finished Fabric Yes Yes 2-3% Yes 2% Yes Yes Yes Yes 8-10%



Fabric Inventory in terms

of:

Qty(kgs)

31400 4000 80000 4000 30000 5000 4000 20000 10000 13000

Value (lacs)

120 14.5 304 120 120 20 16 70 45 40

Fabric Grouping System Buyer-

Wise

Order

wise

Order

wise

Order

wise

Order

wise

Order

wise

Buyer-

Wise

Order

wise

Order

wise

Order &

Buyer

wise


variation 5% 1% 1% 10% 0% 5% 20% 5% 1% 5%

Fabric Issue System

ERP ERP ERP ERP ERP W/o ERP ERP Manual ERP ERP

3

LAYERING

Type of Fabric laid

S/J S/J SJ, Pique SJ, Pique SJ,

Pique SJ, Pique

SJ,

Pique SJ Pique Pique

Type of garment cut

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo, T-

shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Method of layering

(Manual/Machine)

Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual

Difference in Marker length

and Actual lay length (c.m) 6 3 1 5 5 5 10 6 8 5




Marker Length- 3 mtrs or

less

Solid fabrics 42 (SJ)

209

(pique) 27 (SJ)

Stripe/Print fabrics 110 (SJ)


Solid fabrics 96(pique)

33

(pique) 33 (SJ) 50(SJ) 17(pique) 36(pique)

Stripe/Print fabrics 27(SJ)


Solid fabrics 120(SJ) 25(pique)

60

(pique)

Stripe/Print fabrics 133 (SJ)

4 CUTTING

Method of Marker Making CAD CAD/

Paper

CAD/

Paper

CAD/

Paper Paper Paper CAD Manual CAD Manual

Type of cutting followed CAM Manual CAM Manual Both Manual Manual Manual Manual Manual


team/hr NA 83 NA 94 54 65 27 33 60 70



5 SEWING

Fabric Type S/J S/J Pique Pique Pique Pique S/J Pique Pique Pique

Fabric Pattern Print Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid Solid Stripe Solid Print

Type of Garment Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Polo Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Style SAM (min) 10 52.48 12.5 10.88 12.5 19.5 15 13.4 11.26 11.82

6 FINISHING

Type of Garment

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Kids

Shirt

Polo Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Kids

Polo

Shirt

No. of garments

trimmed/workmen/hr 34 40 53 41 18 26 26 27 64 26

Rework% in initial

inspection 4 5 12 10 5 30 8 3 2 2


inspection 3 2 0.4 3 1 5 0.2 1 0 3

No. of pcs. spotted

/worker/hr 8 33 18 18 43 43 17 53 12 21

No. of pcs.

pressed/workmen/hr 27 60 56 70 26 35 43 53 53 21

Rework% in final inspection 1 2 4 1 2 5 0 0 1 2


inspection 0.8 1 0.2 below 1 1 0 0 0 0 1

No. of pcs. packed/packer/hr

Flat Packing 39

Fold 27 45 71 35 43 33 50 76 35



Location: Ludhiana

S.N

o Parameter

Unit Code

LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1

1 FACTORY DETAILS

Year of Estd. 2002 1980 1994 1990 1990 1987 1987 1985 1999

Type of Unit

(Export/Domestic/Bot

h)

Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Domestic Export &

Domestic Export

Type of Garment

Manufactured

men's /

women's

Shirts,

Trouser,

Combat

wear

men's/

women's

Knitted

garments

kids/

men's /

women's

Knitted

garments

men's/

women's

Knitted

garments

men's/

women's

Knitted

garments

kids/

men's /

women's

Knitted

garments

kids/

men's /

women's

Knitted

garments

kids/ men's /

women's

Knitted

garments

Knits- Casual

&

Undergarment

s

Type of Fabric Used Woven Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted

Type of production

system followed

Assembl

y line

Assembly

line

Assembl

y line

Assembl

y line

Assembly

line

Assembly

line

Assembly

line

Assembly

line Assembly line

No. of Sewing M/cs 600 200 400 300 300 600 600 650 3500

Production

Capacity/day

(No. of pcs)

12000 4000 8000 4500 4500 12000 12000 12000 180000


(No. of pcs) 2500 2000 6600 4200 4200 11000 11000 5500 140000


Parameter LDH-1 LDH-2 LDH-3 LDH-4 LDH-5 LDH-6 LDH-7 LDH-8 IDR-1

Normal Working

hrs/day 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 16

No. of Workmen 900 412 952 1250 1250 NA NA 1300 NA

Type of Workmen

(Salaried/Contractual) Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried Salaried

No. of Supervisory

Staff 63 18 12 80 80 NA NA 42

NA

No. of Managerial

Staff NA

Capacity utilization 21 50 83 93 93 92 92 46 78

2 FABRIC

Method of Fabric

Inspection

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Manual Manual

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Machine

(Semi

automatic)

Fabric Inspection

System Followed 4 point - 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point 4 point

% Fabric Return

Annually 2-3% 2% 2% 2% 2% NA NA NA NIL


Annually NA 5% NA 1% 1% NA NA - NA


length -Grey Vs

Finished Fabric

NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA



Fabric Inventory in

terms of:

Qty(mtrs/kgs) NA

15000

kgs

50000

kgs 65000 65000 50000 50000 70000 216715

Value (Rs in lacs) NA 60 NA NA NA NA NA NA 8000

Fabric Grouping

System

Shade &

width

wise

Shade

wise

Shade &

width

wise

Shade

wise

Shade

wise

Shade

wise

Shade

wise Shade wise Shade wise

% fabric rolls with

width variation NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA

Fabric Issue System SAP - - ERP ERP - - ERP -

3 LAYERING

Type of Fabric laid Woven Knitted

Knitted

Pique

Knitted

S/J

Knitted

S/J

Knitted

S/J

Knitted

S/J Knitted S/J Knitted S/J

Type of garment cut Shirts

Polo

Shirt

Polo

Shirt

Round

neck

Polo

Tshirt

Round

neck

Polo

Tshirt Round neck Round neck

Method of layering

Manual

Machine

&

Manual

Manual Manual

Machine

&

Manual

Machine

&

Manual

Machine

&

Manual

Manual Machine &

Manual



length

Extra +2

cm on

both

sides

Extra +5

cm on

both

sides

Extra +2

cm on

both

sides

Extra +5

cm on

both

sides

Extra +5

cm on

both sides

Extra +5

cm on

both

sides

Extra +5

cm on

both

sides

Extra +2 cm

on both

sides

Extra +5 cm

on both sides

No. of Operators per

team 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 3




Marker Length- < 5

mtrs

Solid fabrics 30(S/J)

15(Fleece)

Stripe/printed fabrics

Marker Length- 5-6

mtrs

Solid fabrics 30 22 30

Stripe/printed fabrics 30 15 22

Marker Length- 7-9

mtrs

Solid fabrics 35 35 60 50 40

Stripe/printed fabrics 30 30 24 20

4 CUTTING

Method of Marker

Making CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD CAD

Type of cutting

followed

Manual Manual Manual Machine Machine

Manual

&

Machine

Manual

&

Machine

Manual CAM

No. of Pcs

cut/cutter/hr 113 87 173 100 100 333 333 113 400



5 SEWING ROOM

Fabric Type Wovens Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted Knitted

Type of Garment

Men's

Casual

Trouser

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Polo Shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Polo

Shirt

Women's

Round neck

Shirt

(Embroidery

)

Men's Trunk

Style SAM NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA

6 FINISHING & PACKING

Type of Garment

Men's

Casual

Trouser

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Mens

Polo neck

shirt

Men's

Round

neck

Shirt

Men’s

Polo neck

shirt

Women's

Round neck

Shirt

(Embroidery

)

Men’s casual/

formal Shirts

No. of garments

trimmed/workmen/hour 21 33 43 26 30 35 30 35 160

Rework% in initial

inspection 4 - - - - NA NA 4 10-15


inspection 2 2-3% 1% 2% 2% NA NA 1

No. of pcs. spotted

/worker/ hrs NA 133 107 110 100 - 105

No. of pcs.

pressed/workmen/hour 47 53 51 37 35 35 53



Rework% in final

inspection NA - - - 5%


inspection 2% - 2% 2% - - 2%

No. of pcs packed/hour/

packer

Flat Packing 46 27 60 46 46 - - 50 54

Hanger Packing 27 - 33 27 27 - - 30


Table 5 – SMV Values for various operations - Men’s Shirt

S.No OPERATION U1 U1 U2 U3 U6 U6 U6 U6 U7 U8 Min.

SMV

Max.

SMV

Avg.

SMV

1. Cuff hemming 0.27 0.27 0.27 - 0.35 0.35 0.17 0.17 0.57 0.23 0.17 0.57 0.29

2. Embroidery

- - - - - 0.22 0.22 - - 0.22 0.22 0.22

3. Cuff run STH

0.55 0.55 0.55 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.6 0.6 - - 0.5 0.8 0.61

4. Cuff top STH 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.36 0.36 - 0.7 0.36 0.8 0.5

5. Cuff button hole - - - - 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 - - 0.27 0.27 0.27

6. Cuff button

attach.

- - - - 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 - - 0.22 0.22 0.22

7. Collar run stitch 0.4 0.4 0.45 0.45 0.56 0.64 0.51 0.64 - - 0.4 0.64 0.5

8. Collar bone

prep

- - - 0.2 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 - - 0.12 0.2 0.14

9. Collar bone

attach

- - - 0.65 0.31 0.31 0.31 0.31 - - 0.31 0.65 0.37

10. Collar top stitch 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.36 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - - 0.3 0.4 0.34

11. Neck/Collar

band hem

0.25 0.25 0.25 0.19 0.25 0.25 0.22 0.22 - - 0.19 0.25 0.23

12. Neck band top

side attach

- 0.3 - - 0.29 0.29 0.29 0.29 1.16 1.16 0.29 1.16 0.54

13. Neck band

inside attach

- 0.25 - - 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.49 0.49 0.25 0.49 0.35



SMV

Max.

SMV

Avg.

SMV

14. Collar bead

stitch

- - - - 0.29 0.29 0.29 0.29 - - 0.29 0.29 0.29

15. Label attach - - - - 0.3 0.3 0.55 0.74 0.3 0.74 0.47

16. Slv. Small plkt

attach

0.35 0.35 0.38 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.58 0.35 0.58 0.45

17. Crow foot

tacking

- - - 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 - - 0.35 0.35 0.35

18. Slv. Big plkt

sew (solid)

0.5 0.75 0.75 0.84 0.95 1.1 0.91 1.1 0.6 0.5 1.1 0.83

19. Slv. Pleat

sewing

0.3 0.3 0.35 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.63 0.26 0.63 0.32

20. Sleeve

buttonhole

- - - - 0.23 0.23 0.23 0.23 - - 0.23 0.23 0.23

21. Sleeve button

stitch

- - - - 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 - - 0.2 0.2 0.2

22. Size label attach - - 0.35 0.2 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 - - 0.14 0.35 0.18

23. Back Yoke

attach

0.55 0.55 0.55 0.53 0.48 0.48 0.51 0.49 0.62 0.52 0.48 0.62 0.53

24. Back yoke top

stitch

0.5 0.5 0.3 - - - - - 0.5 0.47 0.3 0.5 0.45

25. Fit label attach 0.35 0.2 0.2 - 0.4 0.4 - 0.2 - - 0.2 0.4 0.29

26. Front Plkt attach 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.41 0.4 0.5 0.34 0.5 1.01 0.44 0.34 1.01 0.48

27. Front Pocket

hem

0.25 0.25 0.25 0.23 0.2 0.22 0.17 0.22 0.48 0.41 0.17 0.48 0.26

28. Front PKT

attach

0.65 0.65 0.65 0.68 0.81 0.89 0.63 0.89 1.14 0.92 0.63 1.14 0.79



SMV

Max.

SMV

Avg.

SMV

29. Front Button

hole

0.54 0.54 1.17 0.54 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.67 0.36 0.36 1.17 0.6

30. Right hand plkt

hem

0.65 0.4 0.4 0.43 0.36 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.47 0.36 0.65 0.43

31. Front BTN

stitch (solid)

0.6 0.78 1.02 0.97 0.64 0.71 0.64 0.71 - - 0.6 1.02 0.75

32. Shoulder att. 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.54 0.58 0.58 0.58 0.58 1.03 0.59 0.54 1.03 0.63

33. Sleeve att.

(solid)

0.9 0.9 0.9 0.84 1.1 1.1 0.92 1.1 1.06 1.21 0.84 1.21 1

34. Sleeve top stitch 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 - 0.62 0.52 0.71 0.63

35. Collar attach 0.51 0.51 0.51 0.54 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.77 0.64 0.51 0.77 0.57

36. Collar finishing

/close

0.61 0.61 0.61 0.59 0.63 0.63 0.63 0.63 0.8 0.77 0.59 0.8 0.65

37. Side seam 0.9 0.7 0.7 1.12 0.69 0.69 0.69 0.69 0.91 - 0.69 1.12 0.78

38. Cuff attach 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.71 0.87 0.87 0.87 0.87 - 0.63 0.6 0.87 0.73

39. Bottom hem 1.1 0.6 0.6 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 - 0.54 0.54 1.1 0.62


Table -6 SAM Values for various operations --- Men’s Polo Shirt

S.No Description of

Operation

U-1 U-2 U-3 U-4 U-5 U-6 U-7 U-8 U-9 U-10 Min.

SAM

Max.

SAM

Avg.

SAM

1 Placket ready and

attach

1.3 2.0 2.22 1.54 4.8 4.8 5.1 1.92 1.81 3 1.3 5.1 2.8

2 Shoulder attach 0.19 0.21 0.38 0.48 0.5 0.8 0.34 1 0.29 0.41 0.19 1 0.46

3 Shoulder topstitch - 0.23 - 0.44 0.3 - - - 0.19 0.41 0.19 0.23 0.31

4 Collar attach 0.38 1.5 0.65 0.42 0.4 1.8 1.7 1.92 1.44 0.62 0.38 1.92 1.08

5 Sleeve cuff/rib attach 0.48 - 0.9 0.64 - 0.24 - 1.28 0.38 0.32 0.24 1.28 0.56

6 Sleeve cuff/rib

topstitch

0.3 - 0.52 0.41 - 0.24 - - - 0.31 0.24 0.52 0.35

7 Sleeve hem - 0.38 - - 1.2 - 0.85 - - - 0.38 1.2 0.81

8 Sleeve attach 0.52 1.4 1.05 0.65 0.6 0.4 0.64 0.48 0.48 0.72 0.4 1.4 0.69

9 Sleeve topstitch 0.75 0.47 0.24 - 1.28 - 0.51 0.24 1.28 0.65

10 Side seam 0.56 1.4 1.07 0.42 0.7 0.8 0.85 0.48 0.81 0.62 0.48 1.4 0.77


S.No Description of

Operation

U-1 U-2 U-3 U-4 U-5 U-6 U-7 U-8 U-9 U-10 Min.

SAM

Max.

SAM

Avg.

SAM

11 Bottom hem 0.33 1.5 0.46 0.58 0.5 1.6 1.28 1.28 0.48 0.51 0.33 1.6 0.85

12 Label attach 0.4 0.38 0.51 0.38 0.51 0.43

13 Peak 0.35 0.2 0.5 0.44 - 0.2 0.5 0.37

14 Slit - 0.36 - 0.48 - 2.4 1.7 1.36 2.48 1.24 0.36 2.48 1.43

15 Button hole 0.28 0.26 0.35 - 0.5 0.4 0.43 0.96 0.29 - 0.26 0.96 0.43

16 Button attach 0.28 0.26 0.5 - 0.4 0.4 0.43 0.96 0.19 - 0.19 0.96 0.42

17 Bartack - - - - - 0.08 - 0.48 0.95 - 0.08 0.95 0.5


Chapter No.- 5

BEST PRACTICES


BEST PRACTICES OBSERVED IN GARMENT FACTORIES

Some of the best practices observed in garment units of NCR, Bengaluru,

Tirupur, and Ludhiana are given below. These practices can help the garment

units to improve their productivity, reduce wastages, improve quality and

improve overall efficiency of various departments.

1 FABRIC STORAGE AND FABRIC INSPECTION:

Rack and Pellet System: Fabric is stored in separate racks shade-wise and

order-wise and fork lifter is used to remove the fabric thans/rolls as per

requirement. This system helps to transport larger quantities of fabric using less

manpower and reduces time needed for the same. (shown in the fig. above)


Fabric and Trims Storage: The above figure shows another method of fabric

and trims storage. In this system, besides storing fabric, trims are also stored in

the same racks. For storing fabrics, lower shelves are used while for storage of

trims; shelves on the higher side are used. The material is then removed using

fork lifter. This reduces space requirement.


Defect Identification System: For identification of fabric defects, stickers with

separate color codes (Green, Blue, Red) for defect points 1, 2, 3 and 4 can be

used. This will help the operator is identifying the defects easily during

layering and reduce rejections/reworks in the final garments occurring due to

fabric defects.

Supplier Wise Quality Analysis: Companies can use various parameters to

like defects/100meters, % on-time material delivery etc to evaluate and monitor

their suppliers


2 LAYERING, CUTTING AND FUSING:

By attaching a stand on the laying table, layering time can be reduced as fabric

unwinding becomes easy. It also reduces tendency of fabric (especially

knitted) to not wrinkle/crease during layering which further reduces time to lay

the fabric.

Adjustable Laying table: As shown in the above figure, a width adjustable

laying table can be useful for units using variable widths of fabric. This will

reduce the requirement of table with varying widths and also reduce the

requirement of tables and floor space.


Fabric End Bit Management: Fabric end bits are used whenever there is a

shortage/additional requirement of panels in the production process. Part mix

up is a common problem during this process which often leads to garment

rejection in the end. End bits can be properly managed by racks as shown in the

above figure. This rack with separate shelves will help in easy identification of

fabrics and avoid mix up of different shades. Thus fabric can be utilized more

efficiently and rejections can be minimized.

Additional platform on the fusing m/c: Addition of a platform near the end

of the fusing machine helps the operator to keep the fused pieces on the

platform and reduces his/her motion time.


Addition of Folders on the Fusing M/c: By attaching folders on one side of

the fusing machine, the cut panel to be fused (such as sleeve placket) along

with the fusing material can be directly fed into the folder and the finished

output can be obtained on the other side.

Feeding Zone

Output Area

Improvisation in Fusing Technique: In the above figures, the fusing table is

extended on one side and fusing roll is being unwound from the same end and

fabric to be fused is placed all over it by the operator. The output is obtained

from the other side. This method increases fusing accuracy and reduce the

manpower requirement.


Spot Fusing: This is another innovative method of fusing. In this method,

fabric is fused with fusing material at 3 different places using a soldering iron

to avoid displacement of the two panels and achieve greater accuracy in the

main fusing process.

3 SEWING:

Sewing machine air blower - Air nozzle has been attached on the machine to

blow away loose threads/ short fibres from the fabric. It switches ON when the

pedal of machine is pressed.


Modification in button attach machine - Wooden panel is attached on the

table of button attach machine. It prevents falling of buttons and makes the

operation convenient for the operator.

Moving Eye guard - In this button attach machine, the eye guard is connected

to the pedal. Whenever operator presses the pedal, the eye guard comes down

as a result of pneumatic pressure and remains in that position till the operation

is complete and the machine stops.


Folder for cuff run stitch - In this machine, a folder is used for cuff run stitch.

It helps in continuous feeding of the cuffs to the machine without any stoppage.

Cut panel inventory monitoring system - This block is useful when small

parts line is separate from assembly line. Green sticker indicates that small part

is ready for feeding in line & Red sticker indicates that corresponding small

part is not ready for feeding.


Placket attaching folder - Folder is used to attach front placket to the front

panel of shirt. It reduces the operation time and makes placket attachment

process easy for the operator.

Fusing attachment folder and fusing unwinding device - The folder is used

on the sewing machine to attach fusing to the front placket. On the operator

right hand side, a vertical stand having an unwinding device is fixed on the

table which has provision to mount and unwind the fusing roll.


Above small modifications are made on the sewing machine to place/display

Daily production reports, Dustbin etc.

Box for panel storage - In this machine, a box is attached on the sewing

machine to keep the bundles inside the box. This increases the work space on

machine for operator, hence improving his efficiency.


Cut Panel Platform– A wooden board is attachment to the left of sewing

machine and an emery paper is attached to the board. This board provides

space to keep the panels to be stitched and the emery prevents the panels to

slip. This increases operator efficiency.

Work aids storage - Wooden drawer is attached on the machine to keep

marking pen/pencil etc. It increases the work area of sewing operator.


Work aids storage - Here, a wooden box with flap is attached to the machine

to keep the material/ bundles. The top portion of box can be utilized for

keeping other material.

Work aid - A rod which can be pushed inside when not required is attached on

the sewing machine to keep the big panels like trouser front and back panels.


Manual conveyors are used for transportation of panels of garments from one

workstation to another. It reduces the space requirement & improves operator

efficiency.

Defect identification – Separate bins are attached on the inspection table for

Rejected/ Spotting / Alter garments. This identification helps in improving the

process flow.


Double panel embroidery - Here, the embroidery machine is programmed for

making 2 types of designs consecutively without stopping the machine. Once

the embroidery on 1st panel is over, machine moves on second panel for

embroidery. The operator can then remove the 1st panel and put new panel

without machine stoppage.

Here, no frame is used during the embroidery process. An outline of low SPI

stitches is done across the embroidery design so as the panel does not move

when needle is running on the pattern.


4 FINISHING

Hanger stand – hanger stand is attached on the pressing machine. It helps to

store hangers on the pressing machine.

Hanger storage: hanger stand is kept between the pressing machines. It helps

to hang the garments after pressing.


T- Shirt packing aid – here a cardboard is used to transfer folded T-shirt into

poly bag.

Innovative Quality Inspection System: Conventionally, garment inspection is

done on a flat table. In the figure above, garment trimming and inspection is

done on a vertically inclined board with garment clipped on it. Two such

inclined boards are joined together in opposite direction to reduce space

requirement. This method also reduces operator fatigue.


Garment Trimming Work Station: An inverted box having opening at the

top can be used to trim the garments so that fabric/thread waste can fall within

the box. This helps to maintain cleanliness at the workstation area.

Split pressing machine – For pressing small parts on same machine, pressing

machine is divided into 2 parts with 2 presses. 2 operators can work on

machine parallel to each other.


Chapter No.- 6

CONCLUSIONS

&

SUGGESTIONS


CONCLUSIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

The studies were conducted in 50 units/styles in four major garment

manufacturing/export clusters namely NCR, Bengaluru, Tirupur and Ludhiana

between January 2016 and December 2016.

The study covered all major departments like fabrics, layering, cutting, sewing,

finishing and packing. Data was captured through discussions with

departmental heads and structured questionnaires.

In all the 4 clusters, significant variation in productivity and work practices was

observed in all the departments.

Spreading losses were found to be varying between 1cm and 10cms. Major

reasons for this variation were absence of markings on the laying table or

operator not following those markings i.e. operator negligence and

carelessness. To overcome this problem and reduce spreading losses, operator

should be made aware of the importance of fabric; proper monitoring of layer

mans should be done and end cutter machine should be used. The use of the

end cutter machine will ensure that the lay is cut exactly at the position it

should be cut.

In case of Bengaluru and Tirupur it was found that most of the units were

segregating fabric according to shade and width which help them to minimize

fabric losses due to width variation. However this practice was found to be

missing in many of the units of NCR and Ludhiana.


It was observed that team of 3-4 layerman (especially in case of knitted fabrics

with longer marker lengths) gives significantly higher laying productivity.

Therefore to improve the cutting room efficiency team of 3-4 layerman should

be engage for longer marker length. Productivity can be further improved by

using fabric unwinding stands and laying stands as discussed in the Chapter on

“Best practices”. For units having high production capacities, use of CAM can

also be considered.

End bit management is an important aspect of improving fabric utilization and

cutting room efficiency. Work practices like end bit storage bins (as discussed

in Chapter on “Best practices”) should be considered for better fabric

utilization and traceability. This will also reduce garment rejection.

Operation-wise SAM values were collected for two major product categories-

Men’s Formal Shirt and Knitted Polo shirt. Considerable variations were

observed in timings between units making knitted polo shirts. This variation

can be attributed to operator skills and difference in sizes. In case of Men’s

Formal shirt, difference in timings was negligible as most of the units were

using latest technology machines and attachments.

These timings will help the garment manufacturers to assess their sewing

operations and improve their sewing time.

Significant variations in finishing department comprising of process like thread

trimming, spotting, pressing and packing were observed in all the four clusters.

This can be attributed to variation in style, fabric, operator skill and work

practices.


Several innovative work practices in fabric store, laying, fusing, sewing and

finishing were observed in many garment units. These have been elaborately

discussed in chapter on “best practices”.

To conclude by improving/adopting better work practices, it is possible

improve productivity of various departments in a garment unit.


ANNEXURES


Annex-1

Questionnaire Used in the Study

FACTORY DETAILS

Date:

1 Name of the Factory

2 Complete Postal Address with PIN Code

3 Year of Establishment

4 Contact

Details:

Name Mob.

No Email Id

Factory

Manager

Production

Head

Quality Head

HR Head

5 Type of Unit

Export/Domestic

6 ERP

YES/NO

7 Type of Garments Manufactured

8 Type of Garment Manufactured(based on fabric

type)

Woven/knitted/both

9 Total No. of Sewing M/cs

10 Production system used:

11 Production Capacity/day(No. of pcs)


12 Actual Production/day(No. of pcs)

13 Working hrs/day

14 Major Buyers

15 Countries Exporting to

16 Total No. of Workers

17 Type of

Workmen

Salaried/Contractual/Both

18 If both, % of

each

Salaried

Contractual

19 Total No. of Supervisory Staff

20 Total No. of Managerial Staff

21 Annual Turnover (Rs crores)

22 Worker Wage Structure Rs/Pm

Skilled

Semi Skilled

Unskilled

23 Any Special Facilities provided to workmen

24 Any Certifications like ISO etc

25 Avg. worker absenteeism %


FORMAT: FABRIC, LAYERING AND CUTTING ROOM

Date:

A FABRIC

1 Fabric Inspection

System Followed

4point/10point

2 Method of Fabric

Inspection

Manual/Machine based

3 % allowance added for calculating fabric average for different

fabrics

Commercial

Name of fabric Type of allowance % Allowance

4 % Fabric Return

Annually

5 % Fabric reprocessed

Annually

6 Do you observe any difference in fabric lengths in Grey Vs Finished

Fabric when you receive the fabric

7 Fabric

Inventory

In terms of

Qty Value

Duration

8 Fabric

Grouping

System

shade-wise/width-wise/shrinkage wise

9 % fabric rolls with width variation (outside the tol.)


10 What is the system adopted for fabric

Issue ?

11 Cost of Fabric

Purchased/annum

12 Relaxation

methods

How it is done and for many hours

(for kniited

fabrics)

13 Total Manpower in

Fabric Deptt

14 Any special practices followed in the fabric section

B LAYERING

1 Type of spreading

followed Manual/Machine/Both

2 No. of Laying

Tables

3 Table Length

and Height

4 Extra Lay Length Viz-a-Viz Marker

length

5 End Bit/Remnant Management Practices followed by the

unit

6 Layering Time

For solid fabrics

For Stripe fabric

For Check Fabric

For Printed fabrics


7 Total No. of

layerman

8 Any special practices followed in the laying section


FORMAT- SEWING ROOM

Date:

A STYLE DETAILS

1 Style #

Buyer

2 Type of Garment

3 Style Pic (Front and Back)

4 Measurements (attach copy of the measurement sheet)

B FABRIC DETAILS

1 Fabric Type :

Woven/Knitted

Solid/Print/Check/Stripe/Embroidered

Composition - 100% cotton/blend etc

Mill Made/Powerloom

2 Commercial Name of the fabric:

3 GSM

4 Special Treatment to the fabric (if

any)

C SEWING DETAILS

1 SAM of the style

2 Allowances %

3 Any Special M/c or Material handling

systems used in the sewing room

4 Any special practices followed in

the sewing section


FORMAT- FINISHING

A Process flow in finishing department

B Style details

1 Style #

2 Type of Garment

3 Style Pic (Front and Back)

-

4 Commercial Name of the fabric:

5 Measurements (attach photocopy of the measurement sheet)

C Thread Trimming

1 Method

Manual/Machine/both

2 No. of workers engaged in thread trimming:

3 No. of garments trimmed /day/person:

D Initial Inspection

1 No. of workers engaged in initial inspection

2 Rework%

3 Rejection %

E Spotting

1 No. of Workers Engaged in Spotting

2 No. of pcs, spotted /day/person

F Pressing


1 Total No. of m/cs in Pressing

2 No. of Pressman

3 No. of pcs. pressed/ day/person

G Final inspection (after pressing)

1 No. of workers engaged

2 Rework%

3 Rejection %

H Packing

1 Packing process flow

2 No. of workers engaged in packing

3 No. of pcs. packed/day/packer

Flat Packing

Hanger Packing

Fold Packing

I Any Special Practices in Finishing and Packing Section


Annex-2

List of Garment Units Studied

Sr. No. Name of the Unit

NCR

1. Aakriti Apparels Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad (S-1)

2. Aakriti Apparels Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad (S-2)

3. Afflatus International, Gurgaon (S-1)

4. Afflatus International, Gurgaon (S-2)

5. CGS Apparels, Noida

6. Fiori Creations Pvt. Ltd. Faridabad

7. Genus Apparels, Faridabad

8. Ginni Filaments , Noida (S-1)

9. Ginni Filaments , Noida (S-2)

10. Global Fashion Mode and Accessories, Noida

11. Neetee Apparels LLP, Gurgaon (S-1)

12. Neetee Apparels LLP, Gurgaon (S-2)

13. Orchid Overseas Pvt ltd, Gurgaon (S-1)

14. Orchid Overseas Pvt ltd, Gurgaon (S-2)

15. Paramount Products, Noida (S-1)

16. Paramount Products, Noida (S-2)

17. Pee Empro Exports, Faridabad (S-1)

18. Pee Empro Exports, Faridabad(S-2)

19. Shahi Exports pvt ltd, Faridabad

20. S J Designs Noida

21. Tandi Exports, Noida

22. TCNS, Noida

23. Wear well, Noida


BENGALURU

24. Arvind Ltd, Electronic City Unit

25. Arvind Ltd-Central Jail Unit

26. Celebrations Apparels Ltd

(A unit of Raymond Ltd)

27. Crafted Clothing Ltd

(A unit of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd)

28. Fashion Craft Ltd

(A unit of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd)

29. Laguna Apparels (Mauritius based Aquarelle

Group )

30. Shahi Exports, Unit 31

31. Shahi Exports, Unit 35

TIRUPUR

32. Anugraha Fashions

33. Awasthi Exports

34. CBC Fashions

35. Exim Knits

36. Gokul Knits

37. J-Win Fashions

38. Kandhan Knits

39. Prigo Garments

40. Rammu Creations

41. Warsaw International

LUDHIANA AND INDORE

42. Cotton County

43. Duke Fashions


44. Eveline International

45. Eveline International

46. Mini King Knitwear

47. Sports king

48. Sports king

49. Super fine knits

50. Pratibha Syntex, Indore


Annex-3

Style Pictures –NCR






Style Pictures-Bengaluru


Style Pictures- Tirupur



Style Pictures-Ludhiana



BIBLIOGRAPHY

[1] India Brand Equity Foundation- Sectoral Report (Textiles & Apparel),

March 2017

[2] http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-garments-

manufacturing-process/

[3] Deshpande P* Garment Export Industry of India - A Comparison of Pre and

Post Liberalization Performance Arts Social Sci J 2015, 6:2 DOI:

10.4172/2151-6200.1000108

http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-garments-manufacturing-process/

http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-garments-manufacturing-process/


S & T benefits accrued:

i. List of Research Publications: 01

“Study of work practices in Indian garment factories” presented in 58th

Joint Technological Conference organized by BTRA at Mumbai in Feb

2017

ii. Workshops (proposed) - 2-3 (NCR/Ludhiana/Bengaluru/Tirupur)

iii. Manpower trained on the project

(a) Research Scientists or Research Associates: 03

(b) No. of PhD produced: Nil

(c) Other Technical personnel trained: 01

iv. Patents taken, if any: Nil

Financial Position: Figures in Lacs

S.

No

Financial position

/Budget head

Funds

Sanctioned Expenditure

% of Total

Cost

1 Salaries/Manpower costs

16.00 16.40 38.58

2 Consultancy 8.00

9.19

21.60

3 Consumables

5.00 5.98

14.07

4 Promotional Expenses

5.00 4.50

10.59

5 Overheads & Travel 8.50

8.64

20.33

TOTAL (Lacs) 42.50 44.71 105.17

Vivek Agarwal Shweta Saxena Kushagra Prakash

M. K. Bansal M. M. Tiwari

Documents

A Report on Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports · A Report on “Study to Enhance Indian Apparel Exports” Page 6 Therefore there is an urgent need to improve the productivity